DIY Guide To Wiring A Shed For Electricity
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- Опубликовано: 13 фев 2024
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I just finished building an 8'x12' storage shed and will run through wiring interior lights, exterior lights, duplex outlets, and an exterior GFCI outlet. This will work both if you would like to run a single 120V 20 Amp circuit from your house or if you would like to power off-grid like my use case.
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Can’t wait to watch the other video. I think this is the one I’ve been waiting for. I’ve been waiting for your start to finish doing this exactly but with solar power. 100% off grid.
Perfect timing. Just bought a house and installing a shed in a couple weeks. Gave me some good tips
Incredibly timely video. Running 10/2 uf-b to my shed and needed advice on style of exterior pull box and internal distribution box. Thank you!
Details, details, details, that’s the reason I love watching this video’s thanks
Hardest working man on YT. Most talented too!
Thanks so much!
He's gonna run out of projects ;-o
This is very helpful, thank you!
I like the slim GFCI.
I used those in my Dad's old 1948 house that used to have standard two-prong outlets.
Slim GFCI fits nicely in older outlets 👍
managed to tuck the wires into it and everything? i have a 1954 house and the wires are all old stiff and brittle.
Dropped this at the perfect time. Literally doing this next week with a 10x12 and have run the 20amp circuit already
Nice! Best of luck on the project 👍
Good video, step by step instructions. Good job. Thank you.
You bet!
I've said it before, you have the best videos on youtube regarding this stuff.
Thanks so much, I appreciate the support 👍
This a great video for reference. Well done. Thank you for sharing
Happy to help and thanks for the feedback!
Nicely done!
Thank you for the great video
My shed has existing buried power to it from an add-on outdoor box on a house brick wall with circuit breakers near the main breaker box. The shed only has 1 or 2 outlets and only one overhead light. It is finished with square ceiling tiles, so I'd have pull ceiling tiles to add another light fixture or two or outlets for LED/Fluorescents, plus an 4' LED light over the workbench. I also want more outlets, so I guess that means removing particleboards to run new Romex for them. Not a job I'm looking forward to because the shed is packed full, but I'll tackle it some day. I do like those LaGrange (I think) outlets you use and I'd use them for new outlets and to replace the old ones. Thanks, Scott.
You do some great work man! Good job.
Thanks so much 🙌
I also found electrical tape around the wagu helps keeping them closed and secure just in case while pushing wires into box, they don’t open
My advice as an electrical contractor:
-don’t run pvc conduit underground. It will crack eventually, especially in colder climates and depending on the cable/conductors used inside, result in damage. Use Teck cable or if you must use conduit, use a continuous ridged tubing (the orange or black stuff). Teck is also way easier and quicker to install.
- leave slack outside your box. If you’re closing those walls in and you damage the conductors either initially or over the years, you will want more to pull through
-staple every 3’ is fine. It’s usually a sign of an inexperienced electrician to see a million staples
-use morrettes and absolutely never use those push connectors. The point of contact is a knife blade and they burn out all the time. The say they are rated for 10A but I would only use them in a 9W pot light. (0.075A)
Enjoy your videos. Have you done one on installing whole house surge protection combination breaker for circuit panels with no room?
Nice job😎
Awesome video, awesome shed. They'd make a great clubhouse for a kid too. Or above ground man cave for the guy that wants to hide from his other half and kids for a while.
Great video as usual, can you share what cord you used to run from the power station to the outlet?
Nice job. I like the idea of "off grid", though that's exactly economical considering the power station requirement. How will it stand up to weather changes? As to the circuit, unless I missed it, there's no actual ground. I'm not an electrician, so not sure how that should be addressed.
Hey I saw your video on the motion sensor light you installed. You added a junction box I wanted to know why is a junction needed and how important is it?
Recommendation: Milwaukee cable stapler. I recently purchased one and it's SO worth it.
Oh man, that would be AWESOME!
I do a lot of electrical handyman jobs and trust me - well worth the $230. Makes working with Romex more enjoyable. @@EverydayHomeRepairs
Hello your one lever on the wago connector was up. Black power wires. Metal box with two switches. I use wago also but I like to use colored tape on the levers.
At 10:40 or at 11:39
Yeah, that is probably the biggest design "flaw" I wish they would fix. Even with the lever up it still holds strong (we tested this on prior videos) but does then create a hook that could get caught on other wires which is less than ideal.
I would have done a regular outlet on the outside of the shed to give u power outside but I would have ran power to the gfci inside the shed so in the case of a nuisance trip the gfci is inside the shed and will be easier to just reset instead of having to walk outside to the gfci to reset it
Thanks!
Thanks so much for the support 🙌
Hi there, quick question: in my garage I have a receptacle that has 2 green wires connected to it 1 has power and the other doesn’t. “Open ground” on plug tester… I see no other wires in the metal box, why is that? How can I fix that?
What ac cord do I need to do the same set up on my shed, the ac that goes to power station to the jumption box?
I have an old shed that has wires going into the gable, it has a 20amp breaker inside. If I replace the siding, will those wires outside shock me?
Good job, but did you use the GFCI/WR outlet. I don't see the WR mark.
Hi Scott, love your videos. Can I ask a question about wago connectors? Some people suggest wrapping the wago connector with black electric tape. Will this create a fire hazard because the wires can’t breath? Is this a safe practice? Also, can I use wagos outside (exterior) in a gfci wet in use box? Thank you. Jim.
Hey Jim, I don't use electrical tape to keep the levers down but if you do I don't think there is a fire hazard. WAGOs can be used in an exterior box as the box should be weather tight. Best of luck on your projects.
So you are going to do another video adding solar to the shed? That will be so cool.
Yepper but that video will be over on another channel we have called Everyday Solar. Hopefully will get that out in the next 7 days.
Under what circumstances would you need to add a grounding rod to give the shed an isolated ground ?
I think the only instance where you don't need a grounding rod (or 2) is when you are feeding with a single 120V circuit. This is my understanding but would be good to check with your local inspector.
Everyone's different on where to place the electrical outlets, I prefer if clear from code in the national electrical code to place the outlet at the same level as a switch. Why? The benefit, of course, is not reaching down to plug anything in. If you have others that may use this now that may have disabilities or sell to those that do if you sell home in the future. Third, it is safe to keep away from young children at a higher height. The interior can be a combo of light switch and duplex outlet. Hopefully, it will be a useful way to do for others with that need.
How about a video on adding plumbing to a garage with slab. Looking to build my own accessory dwelling unit lol
That would be a fun one. I will add it to the list. We are starting up a new channel focused on Sheds and we will eventually be doing all sorts of conversions so I am sure plumbing will be involved sooner or later.
Very nice! Is there a video of building the storage shed? How much did the material cost not including the wiring?
Here is the video on the shed kit ruclips.net/video/2gtgLemWba4/видео.html. Best of luck on your build 👍
Off topic. Imagine those pants you have on, with a cut out for a slide in knee guard. Something thin but just strong enough to use over a days work. That’s a great electrical/ general maintenance pant.
I have really enjoyed these Truewerk pants and they have held up awesome. Looks like they are out of most sizes but they do make a type of pants with slide in knee pads truewerk.com/products/xp-werkpant
What if i need 220? I happen to have the shed outside next to AC unit that's connected to 220
I heard you’re not supposed to wire your shed to your homes power my shed is about 10ft from my house circuit breaker is it ok to connect it by installing another breaker
Since the shed is totally off the grid, are the grounds in the circuit truly grounded? Should you wire the grounds to a copper grounding rod buried in the ground?
Yes, you should. Every separate structure should have a ground rod as well. Odd that he forgot since when he did the garage solar setup he mentioned that.
There are a few things slightly outside of code, but I'm still giving this a pass as it's 99% safe. The GFCI is providing a fake ground to whole system. If there is a case where the ground would be relied on, the GFCI will trip instead.
The "GFCI fake ground" is the same procedure you'd use if retrofitting a grounded outlet into a box with no ground wire.
@@thesmallterror I agree with effectively safe using the GFCI. Codewise, I don't find anything directly applicable. Similar fed outbuildings don't need a grounding electrode if it's only one circuit per 250.32(A)Exception. 250.34(A) says generators with only cord and plug connected equipment do not need a grounding electrode. But a power station is not a generator according to code (a generator converts mechanical energy), but it's not a permanently installed energy storage system either (NEC 706). IMHO, 250.34 is the closest and most sensible approach, which if used, means everything is fine as it's done here.
@@oliverwright8500 Not if it's a single branch circuit, gfci protected, with ground running back to the main structure.
At intro, that is one tortured tree or a very large vine 😂
You can bury UF cable or thhn in conduit at 12" of cover ( approx 13" depth), if the feed is gfi protected' 20 amp or less, 120v, single circuit. No need to go 24" as long as you don't cross a driveway.
I believe you can just direct bury uf cable but still need conduit to the boxes in 12 inches as long its fed from gfci before entering underground. Please correct me if I'm wrong
Thanks so much for the feedback 👍
@smashthings4fun yes, but only if subject to physical damage. If pvc it must be schedule 80.
@@Bob.W. Anything less than 8ft above grade and surface mounted is typically considered subject to physical damage
@nyetloki agreed if it's near cars or roadway. Not surre if it's back yard. Opinions vary. Inspector will have the call.
Nice job. At my previous house, I just needed a light in my 10x12 shed because I had a power outlet within 25 ft of the shed. I bought a solar powered motion sensor flood light, rearranged the configuration to hang from the light from the ceiling and ran the wire for the solar panel to the south side of the shed. The light would automatically come on when I opened the shed door then it would turn itself off when the door was closed.
Not a bad setup 👍, thanks for the feedback!
Yep I will do the same this summer, got a solar hanging light, added an in line motion sensor
Is it okay to use that NM wire in those open uncovered stud bays?
The studs protect the NM from damage, if centered. But the surface mounted wire running across the studs to that outlet box? Would not be allowed, unless you protect it with conduit or even just a 2x4 blocking. He should have ran it up and over and back down.
"Torpedo level..." I did not know they had a name... Thank you!
You bet!
Is there a video of your shed build? Interested to see how you did it
Yep, I will put one out for the foundation and one for the complete build. This specific shed is a Home Depot Kit. Both videos will be coming in the next 2 weeks.
11:55 I trust you closed that lever on the line side of the switches.
Can you please list the motion sensor light model name and where you got it? Thx.
It was just this cheap one from Home Depot homedepot.sjv.io/KjLK1A
Thank you.
You need to ground your switches, Scott! The way you have it, the cover plate and switches are only when the plate is attached to the box. When you remove the cover, the plate and switches are no longer grounded. Always run a ground from switches to box. Thanks, Russ 29 years in Electrical Trade.
True. In my house under normal circumstances, all my switches and receptacles are unattached and hanging out of the boxes 😂
Personally I would have used plastic lampholders instead of porcelain, granted both can crack anyhow. On the lampholders one would use the current style of led bulbs (where it has more base than light area) which I have all but eliminated around my house. I would have used probably 100W led flood lights on the ceiling. Also a 100W led bulb would seem half as bright in that shed considering there are no white walls or ceiling. Maybe a 3rd flood light above the work shelf to see better.
Thanks for the feedback!
Why no sealant behind the outside box? Water can now run down the face and into your siding where you drilled the hole. Also, you might not store anything in the shed up high, but the next owner may. At 10:14, you had the hot pinched between the pancake box and the exterior light. The box at 13:51 has a punchout removed with an NM clamp on it, but no wire. I think that needs to be plugged.
Agree, the same sealant used for the pancake/exterior light I sealed around the back of the exterior box just leaving a small gap at the bottom just in case any moisture needed to drain out. Thanks for pointing out the other concerns with the time stamps. As always I appreciate the feedback.
A NM clamp is sufficient as a plug.
Everybody trying to build a shed who is watching this - LOOK UP! 6:08 There is no ridge beam. But there ARE collar ties, and rafter ties. You must have one system, or the other. Otherwise, literally almost nothing is holding your walls together if a stiff breeze blows, because a roof either hangs off the ridge beam, or it sits on the walls. One good push can send it over.
Do those lights need to be grounded?
Nope, just the box (if you use metal) should be grounded.
One of you Wago levers was open as you stuffed the box... look at about 11:45
With the lighting fed from a GFCI, be careful about working in the shed with the door closed or at night. If the GFCI trips, it's going to get dark.
15:05 - that time lapse went so fast I had to play it on 1/4 speed to understand how your were connecting everything. Very confusing. But I got it now
Thanks for the feedback 👍
Why didn’t you install an exterior rated pancake box? That one is rated for interior use only.
Why would you include the lights on the same GFCI circuit? It trips and you got no lights…
It was a trade off I was willing to take to provide GFCI protection to the entire shed and also a "disconnect" for the shed.
Running 12ga wire to lights in an off-grid shed (which these days would tend to be low-wattage LED) does seem a tad overkillish. Heck, I'd be looking to make them DC anyway to avoid the double-conversion penalty.
going to be fed by a "100.20" ? volt, single 20 amp circuit
The $1000 power station (plus solar) seems way overkill. That only works if you are a RUclipsr and got it for free. Also, a motion sensative exterior light would be more useful.
Yeah, the complete package with panels is $1,000 but we will provide a few different options in the future as well. That experior light does have motion sensor so it turns on when I am walking out to the shed.
Lol he didnt secure the hot side of the wago, thankfully the switch side so not a big deal
It is secured, once the wire is installed the lever has some play. This is the reason some guys will tape the levers to avoid hooking a wire and then opening completely up where you could run into issues.
I'll just run an extension cord out to my shed.
That is the quick way 👍
Yes especially if you are using a power station for power. 73
Be careful. Because that is how my offset garage caught on fire. The electrical surge caused the lights to overheat.
Me too 😂
11:50 - This is why I have reservations about Wago levernuts. The third lever of the black wires was never tightened.
It actually does still have a secure hold. Once the wire is inserted then the lever does have some play where it can be pulled out like that but still have a good connection. The biggest issue this can cause is snag other wires inside the box.
15:18 You passed 2- unsheathed wires from the 4-s box to the weatherproof box. You know better than that. Should have been two 12-2 NM cables.
You didn't address this structure and a grounding electrode for the electrical system.
6:21 9:18 You stapled the NM cable appropriately near the other boxes in this project, why not within 12" of the 4-0 light outlet boxes?
Sorry, but this video fell short. I don't see where you explained how to wire power from the house's circuit box.
Promo*SM
A pancake box has 6 cu in capacity. 12-2 wire requires 6.75 cu" capacity, so technically you can not have 12-2 in a pancake box.
Technically the shed probably doesn't need to meet NEC code as it isn't connected to any permanent power.
This shed setup is interesting since its power does not come from the grid. I know NEC code does have bonding/ grounding requirements for “separately derived systems” in Article 250.
It’s better metal box with MC wire instead of NM Cable
For all of us yellow bus viewers....it's a bit difficult to follow you when the video is moving 100mph, lol. Just my opinion and my opinion only! Awesome video otherwise!
Can’t stand time lapse videos.