How to Install 220v outlet in Garage the Easy Way = Run from Basement
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
- Today I'm going to install a 220 volt outlet in the garage, so that I can finally use my air compressor.
The ideal time to install an outlet is during new construction, but because this house has a basement, I'll be able to run wire and install a 220v outlet without having to go inside of any walls. If you don't have a basement where you can access the breaker box and run wire to the garage, then it's not going to be as simple as what I'm about to do. Also, don't attempt to do this yourself unless you know exactly what you're doing when it comes to electrical work, or have an electrician help you!
EDIT 9-10-23... I finally flipped the box over so the plug is pointing the right way!
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Very informative video, that box is actually meant to be installed 180° of how you installed it so the ground is on top. So In the unlikely event that something were to fall down the wall and knock the plug out of the socket the first blade of the outlet to make contact would be the ground. There’s a term for it but most 120v outlets in this country are installed upside down so they somewhat resemble a face.
It depends, it's usually not required by code and is generally up to the installer but definitely a good idea to do it!
Thank you for taking something I was scared to do & making it something I felt confident about.
I’ve done electrical work with 120v many times, but always felt uneasy about 240v simply due to lack of knowledge.
You helped me through the fear.
Thanks!
240 still makes me uncomfortable lol
Thing I learned about wire, never start from the inside of the roll, always the outside.
I also learned it is better to unroll it along the floor first to approximately what you need.
This does two things:
1. Makes it easier to pull through the wall.
2.You don't get the twisty turning in the wire when pulling it out from the side of the roll.
You could also hold the wire upright and place let's say a broom handle through it so it rolls off easier, etc.
Totally sweet you have steps from garage into basement....
Michael Werbick I know right, one of the reasons I wanted this house!
So instead of pushing 2 feet of wire through a hole from the basement side, you decided to push / pull 48 feet through the garage side?
oobaka1967 haha looking back, that could have saved me some time!
Hahahahahahahaha
That’s the new style of running wire bro lmao!!
I wouldnt have thought of it like that...lol..but its correct.
Can I run the power wiring like this with no tubing or something else if I have drywall ?
By far the best video of hooking a 240v (220v :D) to your panel. I have a single outlet in my garage that is off of the bathroom GFI and pops constantly! I want to run a 240 and more 120 outlets to it! Great video! I tried to read about the different phases and just felt dumb as well!
Thank you for sharing this information! I am heading to Lowe’s in the morning to buy the supplies and then contacting an electrician!
Best dang video I’ve seen on installing a 220V! Simple and straightforward. Thanks!
You need a strap within 12 inches of a box. Not more than 18 inches of wire length. And not to exceed 4 and a half feet between straps. And yes you mounted your receptacle upside down. Good use of tape.
In most degree program schools now they teach turning the ground lug of the receptacle to the top as good practice especially in industry, garages, & basements where your gang box is exposed & mounted to walls, posts or machines. People love to lay conductive materials on top of an exposed gang box for some odd reason (screws, nails, etc.). By putting ground on top , should plug work or get pulled loose there is less chance of a foreign conductor rolling off that box and creating a hazardous dead short & arc flash between the two hot prongs. Just a helpful hint.
I never considered that... thanks for sharing!
You identified your receptacle as mounting flush on the wall, except it was surface mounted. Flush mounted would look better and with your exposed basement, you could have easily cut the drywall and nailed a new electrical box behind the drywall for a real flush mounted receptacle.
Dang Nguyen sorry for the confusion. I had to do it that way because there was a 2x10 behind the 1/2 drywall.
Omg. Thank you for showing me how to accomplish what I have thought of as sorcery for my adult life. I now will do this to my garage for an ev charger. Brilliant!
don't use 10/2 for an ev charger, it should more than likely need 6/3 or larger as they are 50-60amp draws
Definitely flip that outlet over so your cord is coming out the bottom (shock hazard if water drips on the cable gravity directs it away from the outlet) especially next to that spigot
Oh good idea, that makes perfect sense... thanks!
Why didn't he just feed the foot of wire from the basement side to the garage side 🤔
ianjsutt haha 😂
Thought Same thing .
OOF!
Well, we all have those moments.
hahaha
Everyone will have their ways. It’s done and clean 🧽
That is a beast of a little compressor
Your video gave me enough information to get my project done
GREAT VIDEO. you said everything that needs to be said in the simplest possible terms. Bravo.
Thank you!!
This is nearly an identical situation to my house and needs. Attached garage, basement panel, need to add a 240 to the garage for a large air compressor. :) This gave me about 70% of the confidence to do what I need to... the other 30% is simply being comfortable (but not overly so), when installing the new breaker. The 200 amp panel is full of breakers, but many are unused... I'll likely be re-using an existing 50amp that was for a hot tub that used to live on the back patio during the prior homeowners' reign.
Anyway, thanks for the simple overview!
I have the same situation like your to use the 240v from the hot tub outside at the deck for my EV charging port. Did you run the wire from the outside and go along the siding of the house and get through the wall at the basement? Send me some photos if you don’t mind.
Always check that outlet for power BEFORE plugging in and turning on😊
Must be nice to create beaker box new and from scratch. Every time I look at my dads I feel like I’m going to get shocked
1:30 your tingly wall cotton candy is a different flavor from mine.
I paid a friend to add a 220 v circuit for my compressor, he used yellow 15 amp wire..before I even started to watch vids on "how to" my common sense said the orange 30 amp is what should have been used. Plus, he didn't go all the way back to the circuit breaker, he just connected it where an electrical stove used to be, which is probably antiquated as it is aluminum strand wire. I got the feeling I"m going to have to re-do the whole wang dang doodle myself, and this is why so many choose to d.i.y., it's because you simply can't trust most people. It isn't there property so they simply don't give a fat rats ass. There are some you can trust, but when mine was done 18 years ago I couldn't check youtube for how it should be done, thus make sure it is correct.
Wow eaay and straight to the point, i gotta do it for a Washer/Dryer. I feel super confident now
From a code standpoint, I had been under the impression from some other videos that 220V for this type of application needed to be in a conduit... but maybe that's only when the wiring is meant to run along the interior side of a garage wall. Interesting.
You are correct. The conduit is for when running wire vertically down or up a wall.
Also probably could have just re wired the compressor. Most AC motors like that have a high voltage and low voltage set up. Then you could have just used 120v would have been cheeper and faster.
But the motor will have an easier time with the 240v
Also: welder. Down the road. !
Thanks for the informative video! I'm thinking about doing this for a garage ceiling heater. Thanks again!
Glad it was helpful!
Very good and informative video I have never understood the whole 240 set up but like now I really get it thank you so much for this video very easy to understand for my brain can’t wait to see what else you have going on love that box by the way such a simple way to install very clean FYI I did like and subscribe
I was actually just about to do this for my welder...im an electrician though so I didnt really need this 😄. Very informative video though!
Glad an actual electrician watched this and didn't give me a list of things I did wrong!
I have a 220v outlet for 30amp. I see you have a 50amp outlet. Can you tell me the difference? I'm doing same 10-2 wiring and 30amp breaker
The only thing that bugs me is the white wire == hot. Even with tape on the end, I would never do that to the next "guy" to come along. You can get red-black-ground. (or just spend the extra $8 and get 4-wire. What would you do @vaint ?
@@fshalor738 2 wire and tape, thats the standard up here in Canada. We usually do a much cleaner job with the taping, we tape the entirety of the visible conductor or as much as we physically can.
@@altvibr Or heat shrink black or Red tubing over the exposed wire? I have seen some recommend doing that. Tape might get unraveled.
yeah.. I watched this video because I was thinking of doing this .. I am not an electrician .. sooo ... nope.. I will not do this .. seriously .. when it comes to electricity and gas .. I try my best to stay away from doing anything with them if I dont have to.
Thank you though. very nice tutorial.
Same. any some the breaker box needs work, I consult a professional. Better safe than sorry.
The receptacle is for a 50 amp usually its a range receptacle 3 wire which it can be used for welders also. When I have installed them we go by amperage not 240 volt. Must of the double pole breakes are 240 volt.
A 30A double pole breaker. That's a serious compressor motor.
I was also planning down the road, in case I got a more powerful welder (finally got one last year!)
@@6thGearGarage I guess the motor has a thermal overload to prevent itself from melting.
This was the most helpful video ever, thanks for the post.
Glad it was helpful!
Everything looks great but before use test with voltmeter to make sure everything is correct 💯💪🏻
Great point!
That is a NEMA 10-50 receptacle; meaning that it is a 120/240 volt non-grounded 50 amp receptacle. For that to be wired properly you need 8/3 plain (hot, hot, neutral). The correct receptacle for your compressor is likely a NEMA 6-20. (20A 250v)
Edit: As others have mentioned, you should always use the correct breaker in your load center, and properly identify your conductors.
Thank you for the professional advice. I will mention it to the person who helped me. Is there any danger in leaving it the way we did it? I only ask because it was wired the exact same way in the last garage I had this compressor in - not saying that makes it correct. I also did not realize that the Siemens breaker shouldn't be used in this box (couldn't find anything else at Home Depot to fit).
@@6thGearGarage The danger comes in when someone tries to plug in a device that uses 120/240 as this receptacle does not provide a proper ground. This was a common configuration way back in the day before code officials realized that non-insulated and ungrounded appliances are a pretty significant safety hazard. These outlets and plugs really shouldn't be sold any more, but grandfather laws being what they are caused them to stick around long after they should have relegated to a museum. Another thing is that if you are using a compressor with a significantly lower Full Load Amp rating than the breaker on the circuit, the compressor should have a thermal overload device of some kind. (Anything from a properly sized manual motor starter, thermally protected motor, etc will suffice.).
There are many ways for new gamers to get tripped up when dealing with electricity. (I've been at it > 20 years and still learn something every day) I encourage you keep learning and consult with professionals, other RUclipsrs, etc. Just remember, the only stupid question is the one that is never asked.
Edit: I just remembered a fun anecdote from my apprenteship. The 10-50 outlet used to be used for ranges, and in an effort to make these appliances "safer" electricians used to bond the frame of ranges to the neutral so any fault current would be carried through the neutral back to the service panel. This worked fine in most cases, except for when the main neutral connection became corroded or went high resistance. This caused these appliances to become live at 120V due to the aforementioned bonding of the neutral and ground. (The clock and timers are almost always 120V and a constant load on the neutral) let's just say I learned the hard way to not touch old appliances when searching for a faulty neutral connection in a home.
Always interesting to look at installations in different countries, and reading about this, that central pin is a neutral and grounding via neutral was once legal in US systems. I know that neutral is bonded to ground in the distribution panel, but it does seem to breech the principle that protective earths ought to be separate.
Given the North American split phase system, I wonder why it hasn't just standardised on a four pin outlet for 240v and then the appliance can use whatever pins are necessary for its operation. Perhaps it's the cost of requiring 4 core cable.
That two hot plus neutral plug for a worktop compressor strikes me as less than optimal.
Steve Jones We do, it's called NEMA 14 and has been required for about 30 years. These NEMA 10 outlets are only allowed for replacing like for like in old houses, so installing a new one like this violates code. The compressor cord should be changed to a NEMA 6 (or L6 for the twist- lock variant), which has two hots and ground, no neutral.
M VanSumeren you are correct sir!
$65 then...Brandon has made it $133 !!
You should educate yourself a bit more.
Uncoiling the roll first will make for easier install and better looking
Love this video. You made it so clear how to do this. Also, I have the same flat blade outlet that seems less common but you made it clear it's pretty normal to see. Thank you.
Would have been nice if you showed the 240 circuit breaker installation.
New to electrical so I’m not sure if you’re doing a great job although you might be, but shoving stuff through existing plumbing cutouts could potentially remove the 1/8” or 1/4” grade when you’re shoving wires underneath the pipe or on the other hand if you push down the pipe with wire in certain spots it will now have a belly in the pipe. Just cut a smaller hole for electrical wiring a couple feet from the existing hole to minimize potential back grade and bellying on your plumbing. And for those who say, “Just expand the hole for the plumbing to fit both?” That’s not how that works… you can only remove so much from the center of a joist before it loses its structural integrity.
How did you know where to drill in the ceiling of your basement? I have a similar situation where my basement comes in contact with my garage. I'm just not sure exactly where to drill
I measured on the outside of the wall in the garage, and then measured the same distance (minus the thickness of the wall) on the inside of the basement ceiling.
Thank you
Why didn’t you use a 10-3 wire
No need for 10-3 in this application, 10-2 is all I needed and less expensive.
110v and 120v are actually the same, US power companies deliver +-10% of 120v so sometimes you will even see more than 120v at an outlet (and sometimes less)! Modern appliances do not care and can operate within these ranges, it's not actually a need for more power (they would just draw more current, but still negligible in the long run)
Put an extra staple between those on your joist and just flip your receptacle around....and i didnt know rubber grommets were accepted for securing??
Thank God all this professionals are to point out under comment section.
you did a very good job explaining this compared o others i have watched, good job
Well done. I like the narration style. Thanks!
Haven't seen a comment or anyone pointing out that installing 30amp breaker on existing 14g wire if not a sure way to melt down the wire (fire) , than it sure is the legal reason for insurance company to turn down future claim.
(That assuming the exiting wire in video is 14 or even 12 gauge wires). 30amp breaker needs a 10 gauge wire)
The set up might be okay if it is used delicately JUST for that compressor, and assuming that is a 12 gauge wire
It is 10-2 wire.
Excellent explanation man.
Glad it was helpful!
Personally, I would of used black heat shrink. Looks more professional.
My compressor has been sitting for at least 6 years, I really need to run a plug out to my garage
Just bought 10/2 wire 25ft for 75 bucks at home depot! Talk about inflation
That's crazy... I should have invested in copper wire.
Right?! Almost unbelievable! Also thanks for the awesome video! I got my dryer wired up in 30 minutes 🤟
6:40 That strain relief collar is completely backwards. It's supposed to be outside not inside the outlet.
I never realized that, thanks!!
Thats wire now is 200 bucks😂
I think I would have wired the outlet before connecting it to the service panel to ensure I didn't fry myself. Is there a reason I shouldn't do it that way?
Looks like multiple others let you now your outlet box is actually upside down, which is why your cord 'looks goofy' plugged in the way you had it. Nice to know.
I think by doing the breaker first, you won't get zapped when installing it if there is a problem with the wiring of the outlet.
By doing the breaker first and switching it off to wire the outlet, you only have to worry about the breaker kicking off when switching it of for the first time, not getting zapped while you have a screwdriver in your hand attaching a wire. Or at least that's my best guess. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the video. Very informative for me.
Thanks for the video, simple clear and informative.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge very informative, it
inspired me to focus more making electrical video
Thanks man. You’re a brave one!! I’m afraid I’d totally fry myself! 😬🍟
I'm still not sure I know what I'm doing lol
6th Gear Garage 😂😂😂
thats what breakers are for!...lol
I have the exact same tool boxes you have!!!! yes boxes the harley box and the older snapon red box that's weird I bet that were the only ones in the world with these same two boxes!!
Kurt Riedmuller thats crazy! The snap on was my dad’s from when he started out as a mechanic. The HD was won at an auction in the late 90’s. I keep all the oddball tools and stuff I don’t use often in the HD so it doesn’t get beat up.
@@6thGearGarage that's cool I bought my HD box new from snap on when I first started as a mechanic and the red snap on box I had a friend give me the top box for my home garage and then my snap on dealer had the bottom and the side cabinet in from a trade so I bought it to match my top box ... now I'm looking to build a home shop pole barn to work on my projects!!
@@kurtriedmuller8223 LMK If you're in Ohio, I can recommend the guys that built mine.
@@6thGearGarage thankyou but I'm in Illinois
220, 221.. whatever it takes
Great instructions. Thank you.
Oh dudee. Sweet garage basement
50ft 10/2 is now $137 at home depot...
Wow I should have invested in copper
6th Gear Garage... to add
Back ground concerning your NEMA 50A 10-50R receptacle ->
NEMA (U.S. National Electrical Manufacturers Association) 10-50R, 3-pole, 3-wire, non-grounding, 50A 120/240V. For older ranges that are non-grounded and that require dual voltage: 240V for the heating elements and 120V for lighting/clock/controls.
In North America, the cases of some ovens and clothes dryers were grounded through their neutral wires as a measure to conserve copper from copper cables during the Second World War. This practice was removed from the NEC in the 1996 edition, but existing installations may still allow the case of such appliances to be connected to the neutral conductor for grounding. Note that the NEC may be amended by local regulations in each state and city. This practice arose from the three-wire system used to supply both 120 volt and 240-volt loads. Because ovens and dryers have components that use both 120 and 240 volts there is often some current on the neutral wire. This differs from the protective grounding wire, which only carries current under fault conditions. Using the neutral conductor for grounding the equipment enclosure was considered safe since the devices were permanently wired to the supply and so the neutral was unlikely to be broken without also breaking both supply conductors. Also, the unbalanced current due to lamps and small motors in the appliance was small compared to the rating of the conductors and therefore unlikely to cause a large voltage drop in the neutral conductor.
Using the W (white wire) in NEMA 50A 10-50R receptacle as a ground should not cause any problem..
Good job on the install..!
This was by for the most informative post on this video. Thank you!
Shouldn't it be a 10/3 wire? Red and Black are your two hot legs, white natural and then ground is green? I'm a little confused. Thanks for clarification.
Not too sure why electrical manufacturers can't decide if the plug should be up or down. All my 220 plugs hang upside down.
you also should check motor rotation first before letting it run
I like your old JD 318! I also see a Benz wheel from a W123... Thanks for the video. Ill be doing this very soon.
Good eye!
That's all fine but you used the wrong breaker for that panel it's a Square D panel not Siemens, you should phase your neutral wire that is now a hot wire from where it enters panel all the way to the breaker in red or black to clearly identify it as a hot. Also you should have physical protection on that wire coming in the side of the panel.
Thanks for the heads up on the breaker - did not know Siemens shouldn't be used in this box. It did fit ok though - should I change it? (It was the only one H.D. had that would fit.) Dumb question- what do you mean by physical protection where the wire comes in the side of the panel? I only used a grommet.
@@6thGearGarage I'm not trying to be a dick just pointing out a couple things. I am a licensed electrician. You'll be ok with leaving those breakers they fit but aren't rated to be in that panel could fail a home inspection in the future if you go to sell your house but probably not. Physical protection would be sleeping that wire on the side with some 1/2in metal flex until the wire goes at or above floor joists. All wires going into that panel should be flexed into the top of panel below joist or have 2x4s on the side of panel going all the way up wall to the bottom of joist with a piece of plywood over the top above panel protecting wires from possible damage because they arent insude a closed wall they are exposed. Romex cannot be run outside walls unless physically protected or up in a joist bay or if it's above 8ft tall. Also Romex cannot be run inside walls that aren't covered unless it's above 8ft to run horizontally . Vertical runs of Romex are fine in open walls though. Any questions just holler be happy to help.
@@6thGearGarage also running all your wires like that in one bored hole is against code it's considered bundling, the conductors can't cool down with all the heat from those 12wires. No matter what size hole you go through you can't have more than 5 current carrying conductors. 1allowance for a hot and for a neutral etc.
@@6thGearGarage If you look closely you'll note that the Siemens breaker "fits" but doesn't actually go all the way onto the busbar. You can see it in the video, that the front piece of the breaker is just a mm or so left of where the other breakers are. Square D adds an extra little "nub" to the bus design that rejects other brands' breakers in this way.
HD does sell the breaker you need. Manufacturer's part number is HOM230CP. You will find it on HD's site if you enter 202353325, and that should lead you to which aisle/bay to find it in at your local store.
@@emolatur Thanks!
This was helpful as hell
Thank you! I got it with you explaining
Why not turn the outlet upside down and the. Your plug will hang normal?
Yeah, I still need to do that
That wire now is more than double that!!
Prices have gone crazy and only getting worse
I bought that same wire size length etc about $200 2021 price
Wow!!
Very clear explanation.
50 foot of 10/2 is now $165
Wow...
Are you going to get a bigger compressor? You can get a 120v compressor in that same size.
No I added the outlet just to run this one. It’s only 20 gal, but high output for painting vehicles.
So if I wanted a 240 with a larger breaker for a 240 welder, I’d just need the appropriate size wire (6/2) and a 50A breaker like a range has right?
You have the right idea, but I can't say for sure that 6/2 and 50a breaker will be correct for your application.
Hey,
5 years later and that same wire is almost $150
I should have invested in copper wire
Great video!
Can I not use my yellow romex.. I have like 500ft of it.🤔
I would ask an electrician to be sure it is the proper gauge for your application
If it's the right gage and NMB wire, it should be fine.
Personally, I'd see if it'd be better to run 10/2 EMT instead just to be sure inspectors would like it better if you ever sold your home.
Can I use 10 awg wire wrapped in conduit with colors red black green directly from breaker to outlet?
Sorry I'm really not qualified to answer that.
For electric cooker one socket, for drying machines the other.....
I see this video to save 500$😂😂
Very helpful video thanks
I would do it and have 240 volts.
I'm going to buy me an RV 😁, just to wire a 220 outlet in my garage
Reinaldo - Connecticut
Just curious, why 220 for a air compressor?
Some are 220 and some are 110. Just depends on the model.
The plug looks upside down but believe it or not that is the correct way all plugs are supposed to look "upside down" even standard plugs ground is supposed to be on top
""Because if a cord or wire/objects were to fall down on a partially plugged in right-side up outlet you would short out between the hot and the neutral. When the outlet is "upside down" in the above situation the wire would touch ground first.""
Wrong at least in the two states that I have worked. NO code exists on which way the duplex should be mounted. Personally I hate it when the ground is up!
Yeah, and it won't become *"partially plugged"* if the weight of the wire isn't trying to pull it out!
It is personal preference there is NO code anywhere that I know of saying to put the ground up! if you find one please let me know in the meantime all my grounds will stay down
There’s not really a “220V wire” it’s more of 2 separate 120V wires that are set for a certain amperage and distance (for voltage drop). Download a calculator by Southwire to calculate what wire you need for the distance and amperage you are running. Don’t just go buy “220V” wire.
So there was no neutral needed for that???
Alfredo Sanchez no neutral needed for a 3-prong 220v. If my compressor plug had 4 prongs, then the 4th wire would have been a neutral.
@@6thGearGarage
X wires for Line hot + 1 neutral + 1 groung shield yello-green
Alfredo Sanchez neutral is required if your load operates at 120/240 since the compressor is just 240 a neutral isn’t required for the load
If we knew "exactly what we're doing" we wouldn't be searching for help on RUclips.
I say that so someone doesn’t seriously injure of kill themselves instead of calling an electrician. 200 amps is not for a first timer.
So if your breaker has 2 empty slot I can put a double 30 amp in its two slots cause each slot is 120 taking two slot makeup to 240 anywhere ???
Yep, that’s exactly what worked for me 👍
It's not a flush mount receptacle, it's a surface mounted
You are not a electrician, but your explanation better than master thank you for sharing this video because I know little bit about Electrical and I am about to do the same what you did🫶🏼
Thanks for watching. Maybe not being an electrician helps me explain it in a way that other non-electricians can understand.
Thank you
Good Video
Good video. I have a 3 car garage/ man cave fully insulated, ceilings too and even the garage doors. Garage is about 660 sq ft with 8ft celing hight. The lowest tempature during Christmas will be 37 degrees farenhight. My questions is if I install a 5000-7000w electric heater, I have to installed a 240v outlet too right or it can be just hardwired??
Eventually I will buy a minisplit system and be getting rid of the electric heater. Will I be able to use the 240v outlet previously installed for electric heater when I install mini split in future??
Also we will be getting an electric car down the road so I will need a 240v outlet to charge car so what will be the correct pathway for my projects, install a 240v right now for electric heater so I have heater in man cave before Christmas or maybe just use propane heater just for that day🙄 until I figure out what minisplit system to buy??
Sorry for all the questions
Nice setup but I’m really not qualified to answer. I would consult an actual electrician.
Marco, you would have to make sure that the amperage rating for the heater was matching the Amperage rating of the wire from the panel and that the breaker also matched it. Also a EV often uses a higher Amp circuit, i.e. 50 Amp. So that would not match the amperage rating for the heater I don't think. Most of the heaters are 30 Amp required. So in your case you may want to get an electrician to help you out. Good Luck!
I’d just change my compressor to use 120.
I'm not sure how that would be possible.
How can I add a plug onto a 220v device that is hard wired? I want to be a be able to plug and unplug it into a 220v outlet.
I haven’t done that before.