Flashforge Adventurer 3 3D Printer Review
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- Опубликовано: 30 апр 2019
- The Flashforge Adventurer 3 is a small machine with big ideas! You can also find it as the Monoprice Voxel and the Robo E3.
Flashforge Adventurer 3:
www.flashforge.com/product/adv...
Monoprice MP Voxel:
www.monoprice.com/product?p_i...
Robo E3:
robo3d.com/products/robo-e3
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Hi all, We use several of these printers for our business. I've been wondering when one of the big channels would do a review!
They are capable of some GREAT detail, which is why we chose them, but it turns out even the standard quality is fine.
(We don't use ABS, mostly PLA)
Here are some helpful tips for anyone considering this printer: (Well over 10,000 hours of prints)
1. It can also hold the medium 600g spools inside the machine with the lid closed, but for most 1kg spools, you can just print a tiny tube extender to add to where the spools are meant to go. Some spools are slightly still too big to fit, so a custom spool holder would be better.
2. The click of death was an issue for me with some materials until I LOOSENED (yes..) the tension. For this machine, I find the tension spot where there is a notable change in the resistance when tightening / loosening the tension, and then back off the tension about half a turn. It will feel really loose and strange. About 6 months later, it got the click of death again that I struggled to fix. It turned out it just needed a few drops of oil inside the bowden tube (a replacement bowden tube also would have fixed the issue).
It's important to note you DO NOT need to increase the voltage or replace the motor. It's a common suggestion I see everywhere, but I think it's just a generic response to "i'm having trouble extruding". I tried the software changes when I was facing issues, and it slightly fixed things, but it was not the answer to the issue, just a band-aid.
Having said that though, a stronger extruder motor wouldn't hurt. (Our printers are likely also the 'old' models, with unfixed parts.)
I would put my money on the clicking Joel is experiencing being that the tension is too tight / he is trying to combat it by giving it more tension / power (just like I did!).
3. The time it takes to 'Load' a new filament is annoying, but it's only a min or 2. Just feels like an eternity.
4. The bed leveling is fine. It's worded poorly though. Don't actually lower it to "touch" the platform like it says.
Use a calibration card (or a piece of paper), put it under the nozzle, and click lower 1 tick at a time, and try to move the calibration card / paper.
If it is slightly grabbing, it's done. If you do actually lower it to touch the plate like it says, you get the standard characteristics of a print too close to the bed.
Otherwise, leveling is a set-and-forget thing, that i'll sometimes check once a month or so, but almost never need to make changes.
5. It's quiet. I didn't know how quiet it was until I saw other print rooms...
6. It can do flexibles,.. but it's not made for it. You need to set it to ultra slow.
7. Flashforge filament is decent, but they recently increased their prices to high quality pricing, and it's not THAT decent, no longer worth it in my opinion.
8. The slicing software is actually pretty good. I use it personally instead of Cura. Sometimes you need to minimize and maximize the window if there is a graphical bug.
9. The print volume. It's small. 15cm cubed. Luckily you can print good quality threading and joins easily with these machines.
10. If you want to print high quality, print it on a raft (should be on by default anyway). It will simply not work otherwise. It wont stick to the bed when it is so fine.
Any time I go to check on a print and I see spaghetti, 100% of the time it's because I forgot the raft.
EDIT: 11. The screen does sometimes hang, but only for 3 to 10 seconds. It does happen often, every 2nd print or so, but it's never crashed.
Also trying to navigate the internal storage when you have more than 50 pages or so is hell. The "back" button is right next to the "next page" button, and in those 50 or so taps, 1 of your taps is going to register as "go back", and your 50 clicks will have been for nothing. These days even though what I want to print is on the printer storage, I still take a USB stick over and copy it again, it's just quicker. (This might just be due to monstrous sized hands though, but I swear I try so hard not to press it!)
Hope these tips help!
Natalie Silsbury I’m in Australia and have one. When they print they are fantastic, but then, the click. I am pushing 2500 hrs, don’t know success to fail ratio. But it a great, simple printer. I did reduce the tension on the feeder to which helps but I think it is the first bent in the ptfe tube. Great write up. We don’t get much support here is Australia.
@@troyforeman1137 Thanks Troy! Perhaps you should try a little oil. The first time I put oil in, (both in the tube, and directly inside the nozzle) I put way too much. But it fixed the clicking at a time when nothing else would fix it. I ended up making a little oiller to add to our spool holder, but it turned out not to be necessary.
These days when a spool runs out (1kg), I'll use the remaining scrap couple of meters and set it to "load" filament, while applying peanut oil (very clear, not yellow) to the filament as it's loaded.
If you did put too much (like I often do), just let it pump out some filament. You will know you put too much if for the next print or 2, you see little dots of oil on the print bed (making it slightly less bond-y). But just run a sacrificial print or 2 to reduce the oil. (The prints will likely turn out fine anyway.)
I'm sure you could also just replace the tube, but vege oil (high smoke point oil) is cheap!
Also, if you are using particularly cheap or brittle PLA, check the teeth of the extruder wheel too, as it can sometimes get PLA dust / particles in the teeth gaps.
Natalie Silsbury I’ve replaced the feeder gear with a flat faced brass gear hoping it would solve the problem, but no, created another because the diameter was slightly larger therefore the need to reduce the extrusion rate. In my opinion it is an inherent design problem with the nozzle and will have to live with it. The oil does seem to be another avenue I could try. I am about to redirect the ptfe tube to reduce the first bend but it has to be longer. I’ll try the oil while waiting for the tube. I would like to keep in touch you seem to be familiar and logical about isolating this issue.
Natalie Silsbury i also have s theory that it has something to do with the fact it is s stainless steel nozzle, not brass, therefore naturally being “sticky” whereas brass has the ability to hold residual oils from the PLA passing through it making it slippery. That’s why they use brass as a bearing product in industry, not stainless steel. Food for thought. The oil sounds like s great idea 👍🏻💡
Can anyone else just sit and watch a 3D printer do it's thing for almost all day?
Or is it just me?
I think we all do that!
Someone once told me that 3D printers should come with a chin rest. I have brought my printers to a ton of maker events and the kids definitely sit there with their chin on the table, watching watching watching!
Mine's on my desk (I wear headphones all day, so it's not too bad) I stare at it while I'm doing assignments or coding stuff. It's quite relaxing, as long you can get past all the noise from the steppers.
@@AmeshaSpentaArmaiti I actually like the sound steppers make, especially the chirping when it does circular shapes.
I do it always
I thought I was the only one
Please do a re-review with the fixed parts mentioned. I would really like to see the results.
I just got one. The print quality is incredible and I haven't had any problems with clicking etc. Also, in the event you do have problems with clicking/difficulty getting filament through the nozzle, there's a new nozzle available for the machine for about $20 which supposedly fixes this completely. Completely recommend this machine!
I bought the new and improved nozzle and I can tell you that it is a huge improvement..!!
@@michaelkelly3158 could you post a link to the new nozzle?
@@michaelkelly3158 Heard also coating the filament with some lubricant can clean out the nozel and stop the clicking.
@@michaelkelly3158 do you have link for the nozzle
My first printer was a flashforge finder. It was a great introduction to 3D printing because it simply worked out of the box with good quality. Even though I mostly use my Prusas now, I still keep the flashforge running as it's dependable.
I have a FlashForge Creator Pro I bought almost 3 years ago and it is AWESOME! After a few upgrades, like a glass bed, it just works. I never have to mess with it, I turn it on, feed it a file and it prints perfect!
Mind you it is the only 3D printer I own but so far have not needed another one.
I have the same one from 3 years ago and it is still going like a champ. I've used several other machines too as a teacher and working in a research lab (Lulzbot TAZ 6, Monoprice Select Mini, Prusa MK3, M3D Micro) and I still love my Monoprice Dual Extruder. The only thing it doesn't have that I wish it did (thanks to the Prusa) is a removable flexible bed. I really need to get a kit to add that.
@@TraceurZrako Just add the glass bed like I did. I print on the glass and you can lift it out to make it easier to remove the print. I have two glass beds so can put another in and print something else while the other cools etc..
I just use some hairspray on it, works perfectly! Once cooled prints just lift right off.
I even printed the brackets to hold the glass bed on the printer itself.
I would be happy to help you/anyone and send you links to the glass, brackets etc..
It really has been extremely reliable.
Edit: Oh I see you are using the monoprice so obviously not a FFCP and not the same I assume. Still I am willing to help anyone that needs help with the FFCP.
Same here but I have (2) flashforge creator pro's and they are both so reliable I do not have to jack with them like on my CR10 S5, CR-10S Pro [huh-no]. I use borosilicate glass on both with a thin layer of Elemer's washable school glue stick in disappearing purple. Rinse with hot water to clean the glass - easy
I own an A3 and I absolutely love it. Yes, it is finicky with some brands, but not much. Usually when my machine starts clicking like that it is because it does not like the filament. White is the worst. It can also mean your nozzle is a bit blocked. Just take it out and clean it. The blockage usually happens when you swop between PLA and ABS. Best is to have a nozzle for each. Oh, and you have to mention the camera! That was one of the selling points for me. Thanks for finally reviewing this little monster!
Hey Joel, just wanted to speak on the behalf of ABS. It can be very difficult to get right. You want that heated chamber to be at least 35c before you start a print, 50c before you start if it's a print that is prone to warping. Use purple glue stick on smooth pei (is what it likes best) Then let the chaber stay at 50-60c (if it can get that hot). Like you said, you need a 100c bed. Also important the cooling fan is on ~50%. Post print, keep it in the chamber as it cools down. If you get it all right ABS can be printed very quickly, and well. It will never do great with overhangs and bridges, but 45 degrees is no sweat, and you can use dense support layers to get super clean results. ABS is probably the most under rated filament.
Also another trick is using a .6mm or .8mm nozzle. You'll have rock solid parts.
Also also, don't be afraid to heat that nozzle up high. I usually print abs at 250.
Thumbs up for Chris! I love his tutorials. Just went through his for installing the raspberry pi zero w on my mk3s.
i have one of this for about 2 months and its awesome, i been printing in petg, pla, abs and pvb
Great video Joel, as usual. Wow, the mini Joel looks great. Nice that you can print ABS, really difficult with my Ender 3.
Sweet. Stumbled over this printer at a local electronics chain store today and took a photo of the name to later look it up ... and sure enough you made a fairly recent video about it. Yes! With currently low funds, two MK2S and two Ender models perhaps 25 feet away from me I'm not really looking into purchasing a new printer but at USD 400 fully enclosed with a heated flexible bed it should do really well with all the ABS prints I had been putting off lately until I "finished the enclosure". So - yeah - thank you a lot - I hope you'll find the time to get a quick update out on the improved parts one day. Great video - as always. Cheers! JM
Hello Joel, this printer was on my list. I would like to see an update video when you get the parts. The video did help. Keep up the good work. Matt
3:40 or simply... A 3D printed spool holder
Lol, I just commented the same thing
Or an extension that slips onto the built-in spool holder, but it removable if you reduce yourself to buying Flashforge filament from time to time.
Just one Word: thingiverse
Wow. Thanks for pointing out that the Robo E3 is literally this printer with a paint job and a x3 price tag. Almost spend a grand on a $400 printer. This should be a good fit for me to just print as a hobby. Very detailed review and I thank you for it.
Greetings from Finland! Quality content as allways.
its been a long time since I did a manual bed levelling, gotta love BL touch and mesh bed leveling
We have been using our Adventurer 3 for over a year. We now have about 3,000hrs on the machine without any issues. Most of the hours on the machine are using (1) of the (3) provided 0.4mm stainless steel nozzles, without any discernible wear according to our 20mm cube artifact block. I have several friends with different brand printers that are surprised by the quality and detail of the prints that we produce, even when using "Standard" print mode. The provided Flashprint slicing software is extremely simple to use, with tremendous capability and is obviously well developed since it has been very robust without any noticeable glitches. I would highly recommend this machine for it's tremendous value, and quality. Well done Flashforge!
I believe the word you are looking for is Backlash. This is the slack in the acme thread or lead-screw to the drive nut or gear. Thanks for the instructional videos you do a fantastic job.
Thank you for the video. It motivated me to buy. The enclosure and the touch screen are appealing.
I have that exact model and I am very happy about it it's very easy to use very stable. recommended print temperature of a Flashforge default setting is 220 degrees and somehow that's just a perfect temperature to get a fantastic cohesion
Love mine. Had it six months now without any problems. It sits next to me in my home office and can print away hardly noticed. I never thought of the small spools being a problem and just printed an adjustable spool holder with bearings and cut a, small hole in the door for when I have standard spools I use flashprint talways to send the print over wifi although I've used several other sliders to make the gcode.
I've set up my network to forward the IP and port through the firewall so that I can watch the print through the built in camera remotely.
I'm getting a workshop soon and will be getting something more prosumer for that but my trusty Adventurer will stay in the office for those prints I need right now 😀
At last been waiting for a review on this after having the excellent finder.
I habe a flashforge adventurer 3 for Half a year now. Love it. Just put it out of the box and start printing.
Looks promising I just bought a second hand one of this. Thank you for share.
You can just drill a hole in the filament door and then use an external spool. you can also 3d print a dual fang cooler for the nozzle and install it in 4 seconds. This printer is VERY beginner printer that works so well. It was my first printer and I almost miss it. Saves me all the trouble I'm having with my current printer. It's quiet aswell. the only reason I changed was for a bigger build volume. The slicer isn't bad at all.
Tasty video as always. It's night-time in the studio! Comforting darkness.
~
Shon's presence in the room adds a late-nite talk-show sidekick ambience.
Im curious what parts they are sending you, I have had several email conversations with their support (which is very good), but they never mentioned that they are aware of the problems and that they have solved it somehow with new parts.
The main issue I’m having with this machine is the levelling...this is causing the skipping of the extruder, you need to level the bed by using tape on the sides and on my machine there is a lot of slack in both the x-axis nuts, before every print I need to push down the extruder to overcome the slack.
Also, don’t trust the temperature settings, just adjust it until it is correct.
When everything is just right, it prints perfectly (even soft rubbery and wood filament)
I tried some metal filaments (copper, brass) but that doesn’t work with this machine
Great video! Thanks for the laugh also. I really LOL'D at the 3D Phil/Mini Joel OMG bit.😂🤣😅😁. I look forward to the update to see if the new parts solve the issues.
3:50 My personal favorite spool holder: one that lets the spool ride on ball bearings. TUSH variant on Thingiverse, the one with brackets that hold the bearing holders in place so it doesn't go all over the desk when you bump into the spool. It also lets you adjust for different size spools, so that's nice too.
Of course, one could also put bearings in a "paper towel roll holder" style spool holder.
Hi Joel.
I have a FF Adventurer 3 and started out having great prints. Over time, I noticed that about two thirds of my prints were failing due to underextrusion. After many tries at various things to remedy this problem, a lightbulb finally lit up in my head. As you mentioned in your review, there is a rather sharp bend from the extruded to the build chamber. I opened mine up and discovered there is enough room in the black hood and no wiring. I drilled a 1/4” hole near the top of the cover and ran the Bowden tube through that. This makes the bend in the tube much less drastic and since then, almost all of my prints have been next to perfect. On a side note, I did have to replace the Bowden tube since the distance traveled now is about an additional three inches. I’m not in love with FF’s tube clip to hold the tube at the extruded, but as it is a two piece assembly, I couldn’t find a reasonable way to thread the opening for a good pneumatic coupler. The coupler would have also added another approx inch to the height of the extruded assembly which would have made my raising the tube null and void. Of course, my actions kill a warranty on the printer, but I was getting desperate. Just a thought.
Flashprint is a surprisingly good program, I'm not sure they get enough credit for how well it works. I find myself picking it over simplify 3d most of the time because it gives me excellent results with almost no effort. It does a good job with manual supports too.
Great review Joel.
I own an A3 myself and after 3000 hrs I have mostly great experience with it.
Surprised you did Not mention the built in webcam tho. A Great feature that only adds to the value.
did you use 3rd party filament?
@@luki3323 I have had great luck with E-Sun, Eryone, Polymaker and RoHs PLA, PLA+ and Tough PLA. Since these all come on larger diameter spools, you will need to make an external spool holder. My son actually made our spool holder using Legos...2 simple rails with 2 wheels at the end of each rail....
Excellent reviews
Love the shirt, @ChrisRiley is the man.
Welcome to the Flashforge fanclub :) Anyway, you've discovered our little secret, that it prints super smooth surfaces, in fact - My first Flashforge Finder did this, and it was insane. I have 1000$ 3d printers that can't even do this, which is sad, because we all want a bigger volume. I'm a little saddened to see that they went the Bowden tube way, because I'm a big fan of changing filaments on the fly, I make multi layer multi colored prints that way all the time, and direct drive is the way to go (also less chance of brittle filament getting stuck in the tube as well), Flashforge should mount back the direct drive, and put space for a whole set of rolls on top of the printer (free idea right there), this will also help dry out the moisture that PLA rolls tend to get over time).
Wow. That 0.2 looks amazing. I'd kill for that on my cr-10s.
When it wants to print, it seems to print very well. I'm leery about touch screen interfaces as I have read many users experience them locking up during a print
I would like to see a follow up with the new parts. Hopefully they will also fix whatever is going on with that extruder too.
I had a lot of issues with my review unit. Skipping extruder, unlevel, etc. I'm going to do a teardown soon and see if I can mod it with a better extruder and tape on the rolling pad to level before giving it to a buddy of mine.
It would be good to see the updated review with amended parts - I've got a modified FlashForge Finder which has been really reliable and quite handy at printing miniatures with a reasonable amount of detail.
3 years later I find your video 🤣
I have a Monoprice Voxel which is a rebadged Adventurer and it is the most reliable of my 6 3D printers and I have only had to relevel maybe 5 times on the 3 years I have had it.
The standard filament holder solution is a spool holder mounted on the outside off the "hatch", drill a hole in that hatch to feed the filament through and just put the hatch in place. Works fine.
I occasionally get the "clicking" but it's till prints fine and accurately.
You make a big deal of a non level bed, but actually there is a 9 point levelling grid function, you don't have to rely on the single centre point z0 height calibration. You seem to have missed this calibration option in the settings.
There is some hysteresis on the calibration, as you say, but with a little experience you get to know what to do.
Note also, this is a very quiet printer. Quieter than of my other 5 printers
When does the Update version of this video comes online?
Great review, Joel. Did you ever get those parts, which parts got upgraded? How did the printer perform afterwards? Cheers! -Norm
There’s also the monoprice voxel which is a rebranded version of the flash forge version, ive been using it for a while now
I would like to see the results from replacing the parts they send you Joel.
Thanks!
We love our Flashforge Dreamer! The Finder is a great little printer that the elementary and middle schools use.
Great video and Love the shirt!!!
I was looking at getting a flash forge machine a few years ago. I was kind of iffy on the machine so I went with a Prusa MK3. I'm glad I did, this machine looks great but seeing it in action I like the prusa more.
Not really comparable machines.
@@lukefenske3039 I guess not? It was supposed to be more of an anecdote than a comparison
Picking the Prusa should be the obviously better choice
Super nice review buddy! Is yours also loud? (the PSU)? Can you link in the description to the info about parts/settings from community. I'm not having any issues, but would love to see the settings you mention =)
Didn't know if you had made the next video you were saying with a new parts from the company, I recently purchased one I'll look on your channel for video, thanks for your time.
I have new parts. Still working with it. Not perfect, slightly better. Slightly
You should look at a Flashforge Guider IIs, Absolutely love mine.
I have a Voxel coming in tomorrow. Really hoping the parts are the good parts and everything works. If I need to tweak I'll tweak but would rather it just work out of the box.
I just returned mine last week. A lot of folks like me are having problem with the feeder and extruder not able to keep up. Tried 4-5 different kinds of PLA and surprisingly ABS printed decently in it. Their support told me they had a re-designed nozzle and heating element that was in production that should fix the issue but after much frustration I returned it. I watched a ton of praise on youtube for this printer but after getting on the forums and facebook groups it really showed how bad this printer was.
I cannot recommend this printer or brand. Flashforge has stopped responding to me and it's been a week since they received my Defective AD3 and still no refund. They should be ashamed for selling a printer they knew was defective and was coming out with a re-designed part soon.
Yes I'd like to see the updated with new parts
Hey Joel! You should do a comparison of the FlashForge Adventure 3 vs the Monoprice Voxel! I'm having difficulty deciding between the two):
Jeff Freeman dude! They’re the exact same device! Both companies just slapped their logo on it. Read the description man.
I'm very interested in this machine so please do a updated video
If you had to choose which one would you want ender 3 pro or forgefinder adventurer?
lol that menu stutter just earned you a like & subscribe.
Joel, the term you are looking for when the lead screw takes a bit to engage is 'backlash'.
i cannot wait for updated review
Working on it!
Thanks for the Memento themed video Tom. The air gap should help even out the differences in surface bed temperature over time if it was sealed at the edges but it seems to make edge temperature worse because air will circulate out and draw in cooler air. Hard to see the logic of this approach -- maybe slipping in a sheet of aluminium to fill the gap would work better (after applying electrical insulating coating).
I know this video is old but I just got one and the calibration actually does 3 points at the top, middle, and bottom. A lot better then just the center
I been watching these 3D printers for like a 4th review now and I think this is the one i want.
abel2088 it probably is I’ve been looking at it for a couple a weeks too, I’ve had trouble with many 3D printers in the past before with issues that were way too out of hand , and I’ve wasted a lot of time on them, but it seems as though this more fairly priced printer prepared right out of the box is your best bet.
Did you get it?
@@joeyvanrenesse884 no .. I ended up getting the Flash Forge Creator Max
Joel, can you do a review on the M3D printer, it’s the current one I have. It’s not very good unless you have the heated bed for it so make sure you include that.
ooh I was considering this one after my flashforge finder "broke"! Turned out I plugged the temperature sensor in the LED socket (nervous laughter) after cleaning the extruder.
still alive and kicking after 350 hours :)
I have the same thing with the spool holder. In the finder it's like a cartridge that you slide in from the top. I printed a spool holder from creative tools for my 1 KG spool, but my 2.3 KG spool was too much to handle. I stuck a pipe through the box that it came in and used the filament arm from the creative tools spool holder to guide the filament.
for slicing, I actually use simplify3d, export the files to .gcode, and manually remove "code" on the extension (so that it's a .g file lol) and that actually works pretty well. There is also an advanced mode in the flashprint software if you want to tweak the "low, normal, hyper" etc settings, which comes down to similar settings as simplify3d, but I like S3D's UI better.
I see you're struggling a bit with calibration. A useful tip that I received once was to use a piece of paper and move it around as you lower the nozzle. Once the paper gets stuck, you know you need to move it up by 0.1 or 0.2 (or else it will be too close and it can't output material).
I would definitely want to see an update :D
I love how Joel still asks like he's changing the filament of a printer for the first time :)
Nice video man!!
I've been using the Voxel for about 9 months. Monoprice has replaced it once, that is the advantage of buying from a USA distributor verse from China or Amazon. I print ABS at 240c with the bed at 100c, I wish I could print just a little hotter. The Flashprint profile with raft works well for compensating for imperfect bed level. I've had one clog and am delighted with the productivity of this printer. Letting the print chamber get as hot as possible before starting to print was a key to getting good results. ABS needs to be designed to accept metal splints to make tough enough parts that won't break along lamination lines but that is common to all ABS printing. If it is not repairable after the warranty is out may be the biggest downsides. The printer isn't perfect, but I think this printer is hard to beat for features and price.
I'd like to see a follow up video after you upgrade the machine.
something to consider 150mm x 150mm x 150mm is not 150mm^3 the volume is of 3375000 mm^3 or 3375 cm^3
You really do look good in that shirt my friend. 😉
YEAH I DO!!!
I had the Monoprice version of this printer for about 3 weeks when a wire on the X stepper motor broke and the X axis stepper couldn’t move. Lucky for me, I bought it through Amazon and sent it back for a full refund. Then I bought 2 ender 3 printers. I do agree with Joel about the great print quality though.
So I been looking at getting into 3d printing and I saw this with other videos of yours, I'm wondering what's the learning curve/programs into getting into this? I'm loving the look and the review you gave of this one
The learning curve on the Flashprint slicing software is 2-3hrs max. Since most part models (in STL format) can be downloaded from the internet (Thingiverse, etc) and then can be directly imported into the Flashprint software. From this point, you can scale, cut, copy and perform other simply modifications to your model. If you wish to create your own models, this is a different discussion as you will need to consider softwares used to generate solid models (Fusion 360, Solidworks....Tinker CAD is great for beginners and is free, but has limitations)....Good luck to you!
I was looking forward to this machine and bought one on release, however, sadly, the configured bed level was off and it was not user adjustable via software as it is now. I had to send it back to the retailer in the end. Asides from the bed levelling, I wish Flashforge used a quieter fan for the machine's logic board, was the noisiest part of the machine, akin to the Flashforge Finder.
On the latest firmware you do have mesh bed leveling!
What's the best printer for around £300? I'm not a beginner but don't want something annoying to use. This looked good but the bed issues worry me.
nice inPHILL pun, liked it :)
Did they say which parts need replacing as I've got one of these machines and have had endless troubles for the last 2 months with the clicking sound of death
I own the monoprice Voxel. My machine only loads 1-2 of the WiFi networks when I try to connect. Not usually a problem but I live in an apartment complex and there are multiple networks. Does the adventurer 3 display all 4/4 networks?
good review. back in the day we would prefer feedstock clicking rather than grinding, or tube popping out from too much pressure. motor current was set just slightly lower than when feedstock would grind. clicking noises are more common for bowden systems because there also is a pressure that the bowden tube will become disconnected. some firmwares allow extruder motor to power down after retraction to make sure pressure is down as much as possible in lines as it takes a good amount of force to feed line thru. another trick that is used for bowden designs is to feed first roll of feedstock in with 3-1 oil. just a little will help, this reduces friction. having sharp corners in tube is never a good idea for bowden designs.
love the videos!
Keep it up.
Have you tried slicing with cura instead of flashprint?
Please do a re-review with the fixed parts
The clicking issue mentioned is likely due to the nozzle losing thermal inertia, even though the temperature reads correctly.
I'd personally run auto PID
I only encounter the clicking noise at the beginning of a new print where the nozzle position is too close to the table. Once I am at layer 2 or higher, this is no longer an issue. I assume that this is simply because the filament material cannot exit the nozzle.
Hopefully its better then my FlashForge Creator Pro that has given me pains for the 8 months ive been trying to use/fix it from chrismas 2017
I would like to see the update with the new parts!
What is the update feature like?
Looking into this printer. Was pleased with your practical review.
Got a ETi3, prusa clone. It's a pain to get it on latest release slicers.
The Ardunio upgrade is a mess to get right. Version Marlon this, Board that. Man, man, man.
So how does it work on this one?
Please do a re-review with the fixed parts mentioned. I would really like to see the results..
as a CNC miller we sometimes use an old gaugeblock to set the Z-axis. So if you can move the Z-axis with let's say 0.1mm increments, make sure the mill (or nozzle with the printer in this case) is just lower than the gaugeblock. Now keep raising the Z-axis and keep checking if the block can slide underneath. (Never do this the other way round because you could damage the mill or mozzle when pressing against the gaugeblock.) So when the gaugeblock can slide underneath you have a certain measurement to compensate with. If using a gaugeblock of 20mm you now know you're 20mm with a tollerance of +/-0.1mm from your baseplate :)
We simply use a sheet of notebook paper (~0.005" thick) as our shim to set the nozzle position above the table. When running a full calibration, the machine positions at 9 different locations to set the leveling heights. Very simple and effective. If we need perfect leveling we simply print a raft under the part.
After watching many of videos, The issue is going from PLA to ABS in the same nozzle, The filament leaves residue, best fix ive seen so far, have two nozzles one of each and clean them out here and there and it helps reduce the popping quite abit
Thanks for your knowledge 💯
Hi, I loved this video on the Adventure 3. Question what are the other name brands of filament that I can use that will fit in the cassette with the cover on. Flashforge does not have enough colors and they can get pricey. I would like a printer like the Adventurer that is easy with loading the filament, and touchscreen. I am concerned about using the filament on the outside but if you have made some models with the filament on the outside then i will go for it. Thank you....Kathhy
I was genuinely surprised when you said the price, I was expecting it to be at least double that. I think for that price it's probably not that bad of a deal!
I've found one cheap on eBay and I'm very close to buying it!
Nice summary. Seems really good for that price though the bed level seems like a hassle which can be a killer for a school or beginner.
The CHEP Pawn (aka Filament Friday Pawn) came thru and showed the weaknesses. It’s a simple design but often shows those weaknesses exactly where you showed them.
Right? I think the price is decent for what is being offered. Once I get the new parts in, I'll film a follow up. THANKS ALSO TO YOUR PAWN.
Could use a re-review on this with the fixed parts.... currently considering this as my first printer.
I've had the same great straight out of the box experience with my flashforge finder.
I got the finder two years ago and I was really surprised with the quality of prints after watching videos people made with much more expensive printers.
Yeah, but fair warning for future readers, maintenance is a PITA on that thing.
Any way to determine whether the "fixed" parts are present or not in my Adventurer 3?
Great video!
Joel, I don't know if you got the replacement parts for it... I bought one of these dirt cheep at a discount store, and faced the click of death after printing some TPU in in ... I was searching around and found where someone was talking about seasoning a nozzle to resolve the issue... I had by the way already done a cold pull on the nozzle which solved the problem for a very short period of time... I found that seasoning the nozzle with olive oil resolved the issue and also being very careful that when changing the filament to make sure and not let it set in the awkward place were the old filament is out and the new has not been put in yet... The printer keeps the nozzle up at 235 during that time and can decompose what filament is left in the nozzle.
You do not change the voltage for the steppers, but the current :)