Thanks for the video! My pluggage in the pump was a padded bra insert. Ti++ies got both of us! Now I'm back in business with no repair bill. FWIW, my front face panel is exactly the same as in this video, and my machine model number is MVWC300VW0.
Your video saved me! Single Momma and my washer went kaput today. Everyone wanted to charge 100.00 just to look and I don't have the money for it. I watched your video and my daughter and I got to work. We found a scrunchie stuck where your bra wire was found. It took us a lot longer than your video but saved us a lot of money! My only suggestion is to add how to put it back together for those of us that are mechanically challenged 😂. THANK YOU!!
A handkerchief in the pump model MVWC6ESWW1. I replaced the pump because there were water stains near the input shaft. An OEM pump costs less than $40.00.
Awesome video. I have a Maytag Centinal, exactly like the one in the video w10140921d, and I want to replace the suspension rods I cant find the part number for suspension rods are rod interchangeable with a different part number.Please let me know.
This style of washer has laterally positioned suspension springs instead of suspension rods. The rods are used on the more modern models that replaced the old school direct drive models.
Loved this video. Thank you. I have a Machine like this one and the water level switch is stuck on small. I can't push it in, pull it out, or turn to a larger load level. Do you know how to fix this problem?
My Centennial does not completely drain, leaves about an inch of water in the bottom. Removed and replaced the water pump but problem remains. The shaft from the motor spins freely. What else could it be?
Check the water hoses and drain hoses for clogs. Might be a wad of muck somewhere impeding water flow. Otherwise, look at tech sheet and see how long the drain cycle should be vs how long it actually runs. Maybe be a timer problem
Took ours apart today, didn't find anything stuck in the pump, can't hear a pump hum, does that mean it's a bad motor? All the wiring looks okay, I took the timer apart and cleaned the springs.
Hi Ryan,I’ve got this washer. I bought it new probably 10-15 years ago. I really don’t want to buy a new one. I can’t stand the electronic ones and I don’t want the lid to lock so I want this one to last. The problem is it spins inconsistently. Sometimes it’s fast and sometimes it spins slow. This is starting to happen more often. What do you think? Thank you.
What should you do if the motor shaft stops turning if you're turning it to the right? I can continue to keep turning to the left, though the right will lock up
Turning one way by hand is easier because the transmission is in agitate mode. Turning the other way will be harder because you’ll be spinning the whole basket. Pull motor off and spin the transmission by coupling only. You can attach a drill to coupling, but it should at least try to spin by hand. If motor won’t spin to the right after being removed, then yes it’s binding. If transmission wont spin even with drill, check to see if basket is binding (like a nail through a basket hole catching on outer tub). If basket is fine, then transmission is likely bad
I have a Maytag Legacy Series. No fancy lights or buttons or anything. Just the selector knobs and pull knob to start. It stopped working and was left full of water. When I try to drain spin it does not spin or make any sounds as heard in this video. If I try and start a new cycle it does nothing. It just does nothing as if it was unplugged. Obviously it isn’t unplugged. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
When I open the hood, I find the lid switch disconnected and the accompanying red connecter with grey and white wired burnt/melted. I have been wondering why the opening the lid did nothing. This is a used machine I bought 7-8 months ago. Yesterday the machine would not drain/spin after apparently completing the initial wash. There is no sound. Water will fill. I have noticed a burning smell. Thoughts?
Seems the lid switch has been bypassed. The red connector you speak of…is it a wire nut? If the lid switch wires are melted, there’s probably very high resistance or an open in that circuit and the washer won’t spin or drain without the lid switch circuit complete. With washer unplugged, investigate the melted part and re-splice correctly if needed
Thank you for your reply. Yes that is the case. Only the ground wire is still connected. I spliced the two other wires from the melted piece together and now it seems to be working, spinning at least. I take that as a good sign. Just having trouble getting the cover back in place now. @@ryantheteknishun9377
I have a Maytag A310 washing machine that when it goes to spin shuts the motor off. I replaced the motor and belts and it does the same thing. if I take the belts off, the motor runs fine and the pump seems to turn, but under stress of the belts, it clicks off like a breaker.
Possibly the motor’s overload protector is tripping. Is the basket hard to turn by hand? Check voltage and amperage going to motor when trying to spin. Check capacitance of the capacitor as well. It may be failing.
@ryantheteknishun9377 This is an older washing machine does it even have a capacitor? It seems to agitate perfectly fine it just doesn't want to spin. If I take the belts off and turn the wheel it seems fine clockwise but a little resistance in reverse. I'm trying to figure out if the transmission isn't good or a brake or whatever..
@@icemancometh8679 if the transmission spins both ways when turning manually without any strange noises, it should be alright. The brake must be overcome by the pulley/clutch assembly. When spinning counter clockwise, you should feel the drum “release” and spin freely. If it takes a lot of effort, then the brakes could be an issue. Capacitor could be in there somewhere. It may be just failing to where it can still agitate the washer but can’t quite hold enough charge to start the spin. Gotta whip out the wiring diagram and check voltages and amps if the transmission checks out! Timer contacts for spin mode could also be roasted. BTW, did you replace with a NEW motor?
@ryantheteknishun9377 It was a motor off of eBay but agitates fine. I noticed it gets real hot. What would cause resistance with the motor a brake or yeah, bad transmission. Thanks for the help. I thought I could fix it maybe it has to go to washer heaven.
Back again with new problem, I think its a failed LID switch. Is there a way to test the switch to be sure? Pulling the white cap off the lid switch shows a brown lightly burned area and a burned smell. Starting some months ago, lifting the lid no longer interrupted the cycle... it just kept chugging along. Last night, the washer stopped during a cycle... lifting the lid and jockeying the dial started it up again. It continues to stop at random times, and I can get it going again by playing with the dial or lid. Is the LID switch my most likely problem? Anything else you'd replace at the same time (timer?)? Many thanks in advance.
Sounds like a lid switch, but you do need to confirm. Unplug washer, pull plug off lid switch and do a continuity test with multi meter. Or, jump the lid switch wires and THEN plug machine in and run it. If it runs all the way through, the lid switch is the problem. Use wiring diagram. If unsure about doing electrical things, call a pro.
Thanks Ryan, I jumped the switch and my wife ran 6 loads in a row with no problems. I received a replacement switch that wasn't exactly the same as OEM (in the interest of time, a perfectly matching switch was showing delivery not for 20+ days), and it doesn't quite engage fully when closing the lid most of the time. Will have to modify the switch slightly to get it to work properly. Currently using the jumped switch option and the washer runs like a charm. I appreciate your help and quick response! -Kurt
I have the same model and mine won’t go into rinse mode if it does it’s only for a few seconds and stops. I can hear it humming and the knob is at rinse. No nothing
I'm having issues with the washer fills, but won't agitate or drain. There is a hot smell and the motor sits and hums. I've removed the drain pump, impeller is good, I've removed the capacitor, tests good. I had the motor off the transmission the connection between the two is good. Kind of at a loss. Looking at removing the transmission to see if it's binding the motor. Thoughts?
You can spin the transmission by hand (or use drill and attachment) without removing it. Try spinning the motor by hand with it removed. Should spin pretty freely. If not possible or tough to spin, just replace motor. Using wiring diagram, check coil resistances in the motor
I did this, water came out but I didn’t see anything that was clogging it. The motor shaft turned as in the video but my washer still won’t spin. Help please 😭
There’s always the possibility of the drain pump binding and resisting the motor spinning. Possibility failing capacitor, motor start winding, arced-out timer contact… gotta do the diagnostic!
Not sure you’ll see this but I have a question…..when turning the motor shaft, should it freely turn both ways ? Mine turns freely counterclockwise but when turning clockwise, I can turn it several times and then it catches on something. So can there be something in the motor ? The white plastic piece that the two hoses connect to is cleaned out and turns. Thank you
Did you have the motor completely disconnected from the transmission? Because if not, it will spin fairly easily one way (agitate mode) and that ‘catch’ would be the spin mode when you turn it the other way.
@@ryantheteknishun9377 hmmmm, I just did what you did in the video, disconnected that white thing the two hoses are hooked to. Is the transmission in the back of the motor and did you disconnect it in the video ??? Thank you so much ! I’m a 55 yr old woman trying to fix this darn thing, by the time I pay a repairman to drive all the way out here I might as well get a new one 😏hoping to avoid that !
@@rnupnorthbrrrsm6123 the transmission is behind the motor. I don’t disconnect it in this video, but it is very simple. Two screws hold a couple snap clamps on the motor. Remove those, pop the snap clamps off with screwdriver (hold the motor up with one hand!!) then pull the motor away
You could have a slow drain. All water should drain out of basket in under 90 seconds. If it drains, just not completely, I’d pull the pump and check for debris in the pump and connecting hoses.
I followed every single step and nothing was inside the pipes and everything turned by hand so I put it all back together and tried the spin cycle and it’s still making a hum noise but won’t spin .. help? 😅
Check to make sure the motor start winding is getting proper voltage when trying to spin. If it is, then it’s time to replace motor. If not, check power outlet, check capacitor, and timer.
Sir can you please post the serial number on this machine I have the same on but for some reason I don't have any stickers with the serial machine, thanks in advance
Unfortunately this machine is long gone and I don’t have the model number for it. Part numbers will be shown on the parts themselves, if any need replacing
I have the same Maytag Centennial Model MVWC300VW1 - Washer fills, agitates, drains, but does not spin. I checked the motor coupler and it appears to be fully intact and no cracks. While checking the motor coupler I manually turned the coupler and it was able to move freely in the counter clockwise direction, but had limited movement when turned in the clockwise direction. After manually turning the coupler, the spin cycle worked for one cycle, then stopped. Any suggestions are appreciated.
Mines makin a clicking sound grey pump looking thing is makin noise I can feel it with my hand washer has water in it never finished it cycle. Part b40-a3 is the part makin the noise
It was stuck in the drain pump. If the object causing the problem isn’t obvious on pulling one tube, best to check and possibly remove drain pump to get a better view and better leverage to remove whatever object is lodged in there.
Likely a lid switch, however the proper diagnostic must be done to verify. Follow the wiring diagram and test different points to find the failure in the circuit. Could also be timer, capacitor, damaged wire, etc
I don’t recall, however for what it’s worth, the washer ‘guts’ are whirlpool-made direct drive systems seen on all older top load whirlpool made machines, including these maytags
Found it mvwc6esww1 it’s the same one their my question is does it have an actuator I can’t find in the parts manual mine spins but doesn’t agitate wondering what can it be
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If you found this video helpful and possibly saved money, please consider hitting the THANKS button!
Saved me about 2400
Thanks for the video! My pluggage in the pump was a padded bra insert. Ti++ies got both of us! Now I'm back in business with no repair bill. FWIW, my front face panel is exactly the same as in this video, and my machine model number is MVWC300VW0.
Excellent!
Your video saved me! Single Momma and my washer went kaput today. Everyone wanted to charge 100.00 just to look and I don't have the money for it. I watched your video and my daughter and I got to work. We found a scrunchie stuck where your bra wire was found. It took us a lot longer than your video but saved us a lot of money! My only suggestion is to add how to put it back together for those of us that are mechanically challenged 😂. THANK YOU!!
Great job!
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge . My washer is working now. Be blessed.
A handkerchief in the pump model MVWC6ESWW1. I replaced the pump because there were water stains near the input shaft. An OEM pump costs less than $40.00.
Thank you! Fixed the issue. I had assumed the whole machine was a goner!
Excellent
Thank you one of the kids sock was in there got it working again
Got it working again. Thanks brother, you're the man.
Glad to help!
Dude. You rock. Thank you for showing me the problem! Mine was a sock! Cheers man.
Happy to help!
Great video, my roommate and I'd thought we'd have to get a new one
Thanks, glad it helped
This saved me! Kids sock stuck. Thank you!! 🎉
Excellent
This saved us so much -- so simple, but now we know :)
Awesome
Thank you! Just saved me a lot of time and money
Awesome
Thank you for the information. I have one like that one now I know what to do. …
Thanks so much!!! You are the absolute best. Saved me some money!!!
Happy to help!
Great ideo ... to the point and it worked. Thnak you so much
Happy to help
Awesome video. I have a Maytag Centinal, exactly like the one in the video w10140921d, and I want to replace the suspension rods I cant find the part number for suspension rods are rod interchangeable with a different part number.Please let me know.
This style of washer has laterally positioned suspension springs instead of suspension rods. The rods are used on the more modern models that replaced the old school direct drive models.
@@ryantheteknishun9377 Thanks
Loved this video. Thank you. I have a Machine like this one and the water level switch is stuck on small. I can't push it in, pull it out, or turn to a larger load level. Do you know how to fix this problem?
Unplug machine, pull the switch out and see why it’s stuck. If it’s broken internally, simply replace
The best washer. Driet drive
They are one of the more reliable ones!
My Centennial does not completely drain, leaves about an inch of water in the bottom. Removed and replaced the water pump but problem remains. The shaft from the motor spins freely. What else could it be?
Check the water hoses and drain hoses for clogs. Might be a wad of muck somewhere impeding water flow. Otherwise, look at tech sheet and see how long the drain cycle should be vs how long it actually runs. Maybe be a timer problem
Took ours apart today, didn't find anything stuck in the pump, can't hear a pump hum, does that mean it's a bad motor? All the wiring looks okay, I took the timer apart and cleaned the springs.
When spin is engaged, there is no noise at all? If not, check voltage going to the motor.
@@ryantheteknishun9377 it was the timer, carbon build up on the springs
@@ryantheteknishun9377 I didn't get it back together quite right so I messed with it some more and it started working
@@hitmanhartman1394good work!
Hi Ryan,I’ve got this washer. I bought it new probably 10-15 years ago. I really don’t want to buy a new one. I can’t stand the electronic ones and I don’t want the lid to lock so I want this one to last. The problem is it spins inconsistently. Sometimes it’s fast and sometimes it spins slow. This is starting to happen more often. What do you think?
Thank you.
Sounds like a failing clutch. If it spins fast empty but slow with a significant load, the clutch is slipping
Thanks Ryan
You’re welcome!
Excellent video, thanks
You are welcome!
Wow thank you so much 🙏
You’re welcome!
THANK YOU!!!! The culprit was a child sock
Good work!
What should you do if the motor shaft stops turning if you're turning it to the right? I can continue to keep turning to the left, though the right will lock up
Turning one way by hand is easier because the transmission is in agitate mode. Turning the other way will be harder because you’ll be spinning the whole basket. Pull motor off and spin the transmission by coupling only. You can attach a drill to coupling, but it should at least try to spin by hand. If motor won’t spin to the right after being removed, then yes it’s binding. If transmission wont spin even with drill, check to see if basket is binding (like a nail through a basket hole catching on outer tub). If basket is fine, then transmission is likely bad
I have a Maytag Legacy Series. No fancy lights or buttons or anything. Just the selector knobs and pull knob to start. It stopped working and was left full of water. When I try to drain spin it does not spin or make any sounds as heard in this video. If I try and start a new cycle it does nothing. It just does nothing as if it was unplugged. Obviously it isn’t unplugged. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Also I drained it manually and took pump off. I pump fun spun freely and so did metal piece from motor
Couldn’t see and blockage in either the drain pipe or pipe from tub
Check voltage at the outlet. Check breaker. Check voltage at timer using wiring diagram. That’s how I’d start
When I open the hood, I find the lid switch disconnected and the accompanying red connecter with grey and white wired burnt/melted. I have been wondering why the opening the lid did nothing. This is a used machine I bought 7-8 months ago. Yesterday the machine would not drain/spin after apparently completing the initial wash. There is no sound. Water will fill. I have noticed a burning smell. Thoughts?
Seems the lid switch has been bypassed. The red connector you speak of…is it a wire nut? If the lid switch wires are melted, there’s probably very high resistance or an open in that circuit and the washer won’t spin or drain without the lid switch circuit complete. With washer unplugged, investigate the melted part and re-splice correctly if needed
Thank you for your reply. Yes that is the case. Only the ground wire is still connected. I spliced the two other wires from the melted piece together and now it seems to be working, spinning at least. I take that as a good sign. Just having trouble getting the cover back in place now. @@ryantheteknishun9377
Hi Ryan, i have the exact same model. It shakes a lot on a spin cycle. What could be the cause other then balancing?
Check your balancing springs underneath the washer. You may have a broken one or they may just be weak
I have a Maytag A310 washing machine that when it goes to spin shuts the motor off. I replaced the motor and belts and it does the same thing. if I take the belts off, the motor runs fine and the pump seems to turn, but under stress of the belts, it clicks off like a breaker.
Possibly the motor’s overload protector is tripping. Is the basket hard to turn by hand? Check voltage and amperage going to motor when trying to spin.
Check capacitance of the capacitor as well. It may be failing.
@ryantheteknishun9377 This is an older washing machine does it even have a capacitor? It seems to agitate perfectly fine it just doesn't want to spin. If I take the belts off and turn the wheel it seems fine clockwise but a little resistance in reverse. I'm trying to figure out if the transmission isn't good or a brake or whatever..
@@icemancometh8679 if the transmission spins both ways when turning manually without any strange noises, it should be alright. The brake must be overcome by the pulley/clutch assembly. When spinning counter clockwise, you should feel the drum “release” and spin freely. If it takes a lot of effort, then the brakes could be an issue.
Capacitor could be in there somewhere. It may be just failing to where it can still agitate the washer but can’t quite hold enough charge to start the spin.
Gotta whip out the wiring diagram and check voltages and amps if the transmission checks out!
Timer contacts for spin mode could also be roasted.
BTW, did you replace with a NEW motor?
@ryantheteknishun9377 It was a motor off of eBay but agitates fine. I noticed it gets real hot. What would cause resistance with the motor a brake or yeah, bad transmission. Thanks for the help. I thought I could fix it maybe it has to go to washer heaven.
Back again with new problem, I think its a failed LID switch. Is there a way to test the switch to be sure? Pulling the white cap off the lid switch shows a brown lightly burned area and a burned smell.
Starting some months ago, lifting the lid no longer interrupted the cycle... it just kept chugging along. Last night, the washer stopped during a cycle... lifting the lid and jockeying the dial started it up again. It continues to stop at random times, and I can get it going again by playing with the dial or lid. Is the LID switch my most likely problem? Anything else you'd replace at the same time (timer?)?
Many thanks in advance.
Sounds like a lid switch, but you do need to confirm. Unplug washer, pull plug off lid switch and do a continuity test with multi meter. Or, jump the lid switch wires and THEN plug machine in and run it. If it runs all the way through, the lid switch is the problem.
Use wiring diagram.
If unsure about doing electrical things, call a pro.
Thanks Ryan, I jumped the switch and my wife ran 6 loads in a row with no problems. I received a replacement switch that wasn't exactly the same as OEM (in the interest of time, a perfectly matching switch was showing delivery not for 20+ days), and it doesn't quite engage fully when closing the lid most of the time. Will have to modify the switch slightly to get it to work properly. Currently using the jumped switch option and the washer runs like a charm. I appreciate your help and quick response! -Kurt
Good work!
I have the same model and mine won’t go into rinse mode if it does it’s only for a few seconds and stops. I can hear it humming and the knob is at rinse. No nothing
Sorry, I can’t be sure which component is failing based on that. It would require wiring diagram and multimeter
Nice video 👍
Thank you much!
Great info thanks
You bet!
Took it apart because it would not spin. It did drain. Any recommendations?
Check the motor coupling (connects to transmission)
I'm having issues with the washer fills, but won't agitate or drain. There is a hot smell and the motor sits and hums. I've removed the drain pump, impeller is good, I've removed the capacitor, tests good. I had the motor off the transmission the connection between the two is good. Kind of at a loss. Looking at removing the transmission to see if it's binding the motor. Thoughts?
You can spin the transmission by hand (or use drill and attachment) without removing it. Try spinning the motor by hand with it removed. Should spin pretty freely. If not possible or tough to spin, just replace motor. Using wiring diagram, check coil resistances in the motor
Quality
I did this, water came out but I didn’t see anything that was clogging it. The motor shaft turned as in the video but my washer still won’t spin. Help please 😭
Check the motor coupler
Mine if I keep turning it on it will start working sometimes. Is this still the drain pump
There’s always the possibility of the drain pump binding and resisting the motor spinning. Possibility failing capacitor, motor start winding, arced-out timer contact… gotta do the diagnostic!
Not sure you’ll see this but I have a question…..when turning the motor shaft, should it freely turn both ways ? Mine turns freely counterclockwise but when turning clockwise, I can turn it several times and then it catches on something. So can there be something in the motor ?
The white plastic piece that the two hoses connect to is cleaned out and turns.
Thank you
Did you have the motor completely disconnected from the transmission? Because if not, it will spin fairly easily one way (agitate mode) and that ‘catch’ would be the spin mode when you turn it the other way.
@@ryantheteknishun9377 hmmmm, I just did what you did in the video, disconnected that white thing the two hoses are hooked to. Is the transmission in the back of the motor and did you disconnect it in the video ???
Thank you so much !
I’m a 55 yr old woman trying to fix this darn thing, by the time I pay a repairman to drive all the way out here I might as well get a new one 😏hoping to avoid that !
@@rnupnorthbrrrsm6123 the transmission is behind the motor. I don’t disconnect it in this video, but it is very simple. Two screws hold a couple snap clamps on the motor. Remove those, pop the snap clamps off with screwdriver (hold the motor up with one hand!!) then pull the motor away
Did wht u said in video it spins now but don't drain
Wht should I do now
Hello mine spins and works but doesnt drained the lil bit of water left
You could have a slow drain. All water should drain out of basket in under 90 seconds. If it drains, just not completely, I’d pull the pump and check for debris in the pump and connecting hoses.
I followed every single step and nothing was inside the pipes and everything turned by hand so I put it all back together and tried the spin cycle and it’s still making a hum noise but won’t spin .. help? 😅
Check to make sure the motor start winding is getting proper voltage when trying to spin. If it is, then it’s time to replace motor. If not, check power outlet, check capacitor, and timer.
Classic whirltag washer
thanks I have the model but the problem is no start no sound at all is it possible the capacitor thanks
If no start at all, including the fill cycle, I’d look at the power supply and maybe the timer first.
@@ryantheteknishun9377 thanks
Sir can you please post the serial number on this machine I have the same on but for some reason I don't have any stickers with the serial machine, thanks in advance
Unfortunately this machine is long gone and I don’t have the model number for it. Part numbers will be shown on the parts themselves, if any need replacing
I have the same Maytag Centennial Model MVWC300VW1 - Washer fills, agitates, drains, but does not spin. I checked the motor coupler and it appears to be fully intact and no cracks. While checking the motor coupler I manually turned the coupler and it was able to move freely in the counter clockwise direction, but had limited movement when turned in the clockwise direction. After manually turning the coupler, the spin cycle worked for one cycle, then stopped. Any suggestions are appreciated.
Clutch might be worn out. If your motor runs, but no basket spin, most likely need clutch replacement (since your coupler is fine)
Would a worn clutch explain why it is intermittent?@@ryantheteknishun9377
Mines makin a clicking sound grey pump looking thing is makin noise I can feel it with my hand washer has water in it never finished it cycle. Part b40-a3 is the part makin the noise
Did the bra hook come out of the drain cuz I unhooked the one tube and it just drained the water
It was stuck in the drain pump. If the object causing the problem isn’t obvious on pulling one tube, best to check and possibly remove drain pump to get a better view and better leverage to remove whatever object is lodged in there.
Did u empty both tubes?
Can’t get the pump to release from the shaft…
Once the metal holding tabs are released, it should just pull off. If not, try some Wd40 and then carefully prying off with a screwdriver
Mine fills up with water don't hear motor don't hear nothing wats wrong
Likely a lid switch, however the proper diagnostic must be done to verify. Follow the wiring diagram and test different points to find the failure in the circuit. Could also be timer, capacitor, damaged wire, etc
If it don't fill all the way
?
What’s the model number on that
I don’t recall, however for what it’s worth, the washer ‘guts’ are whirlpool-made direct drive systems seen on all older top load whirlpool made machines, including these maytags
You would need your own model number for exact parts. Found by lifting the lid and looking just under the back of it on the washer rim.
Found it mvwc6esww1 it’s the same one their my question is does it have an actuator I can’t find in the parts manual mine spins but doesn’t agitate wondering what can it be
And I just changed the agitator dogs
@@sirloin13 Check your agitator dogs inside the top portion of your agitator. Common wear item
Ad was as long as the video
I have no control over that