How to replace 99-07 GM rocker panels and cab corners
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- On this video I go through the entire process of replacing rocker panels and cab corners on a 1999 through 2007 style GM crew cab truck, although the same principles apply to any make or model.
I started doing these on the side being in Michigan USA, most body shops wont do rust repair, doing it full time for over four years now.
Nice, I imagine you guys have similar winters to us here in BC. Same thing here, body shops are all just collision shops now and won’t do this stuff.I’ve also been doing this full time about 4 years, did on the side for many years while working full time in collision.
What’s your contact I’m in Detroit look for a quote
Great video I'm really eager to get mine done ... Keep up the videos...
Where in Michigan are you? I am in need of this on my Avalanche!
an hour north of grand rapids.@@NiKaNoKo
Nice work ! You can tell you care about the quality and longevity of the repair
Thank you 🙏🏼
On my 2006, the front door electrical connections can simply disconnect in the side of the dash (where the fuse panel is) and you don't need to pull the harness out of the door.
Yes!!I I actually brought this up in a recent video, I just recently learned this…. For years I’d been pulling out the harness, as i was told years ago it was the only way 🤦🏻♂️
I’ve had the question for a while now of what to do and when for the restoration process on my 99 Cherokee and 06 duramax. Everybody has a million ways of doing things but never fully explain why they do it that way. Your process made my decision simple from metal replacement to final finish and made my life a hell of a lot easier 😂
Glad you found it helpful 👊🏼
How much do you charge per side?
Wow what a terrific video! So well done. We are doing a 2006 2500 class Yukon with the 8.1 litre. Pretty rare vehicle with full leather as an SLT and worth saving! Thank you for the video!
Glad you found it helpful 👍🏼. Sounds like that will be a pretty cool rig, especially with the big stove! Don’t think I’ve ever seen a Yukon with the 8.1
@@Johnnymidnight I was not going to go through the trouble of undoing the upper and lower pinch welds and such initially but... you showed in you video there is really only one way to complete this repair properly! 8.1 litre was the gas alternative to the diesel option. In the p/u truck version you got an Allison while our transmission has the GM heavy duty version. Its a very comfortable ride for a 3/4 ton and pulls like jack the bear and gets 10 mpg loaded or empty lol! Worth the repairs! Thank you again!
Awesome video! Very descriptive in your work as well. Definitely will be rewatching this video when I attempt to fix my own. 👍
Awesome, glad you found it helpful 👊🏼
Perfect Video. Im out in BC too and going to fix up my low km 1999 Sierra exactly like this in the summer
My 2002 Sierra extended cab has a third layer sandwiched between the inner and outer layers. I can't find it in any of the parts sources online, do you know why they had it and is it necessary to make up a replacement?
Thanks for the excellent tutorial video.
I usually just trim that back, and put the new rockers on. It’s not structural, so doesn’t appear to be necessary
Live in tropical beach area and. I’m constantly at war with rust on my 96 Pathfinder rat SUV.
Good to find a channel devoted to rust repair.
I really like your methodical and thorough approach to the battle. 😎 Some of the best I’ve seen.
Thanks. Saludos from Mexico
Thank you, I appreciate it!
Living near salt water they will rust from the top down if they are parked outside and not washed off daily. Still not as bad as the salt and sodium hydrochloride brine they put down on the roads in the rust belt states.
You can't even tell that this was repaired. It looks great.
Thanks for the video,always helpful to get a preview before starting a project. Great job.
Glad it was helpful!
Very helpful, thank you! Great insights from a pro! I’ll be tackling this job on my channel soon (as a rookie).
Awesome, glad you found it helpful, good luck with the project 👍🏼
Thanks you...excellent video with a lot of great details. I have a 2000 Silverado that is just starting to show external bubbling around the passenger side rocker. This truck has always been in a southern USA climate, so surprised that rust has started to bust out, but based upon your video, the rust must have started internally from moisture accumulations. Otherwise the truck is clean so I am interested in replacing the rockers. Can you respond with a supplier for the new rocker panels? Thanks again.
I get all of my parts through LKQ ,they don’t sell direct, but I’m pretty sure any auto parts store should be able to source from them. The rockers I use are the OE style full rockers, there are much cheaper “slip on” style panels, but they’re more for just patching stuff up for a few years.
Amazing job thank you.
Thanks very much for this. It makes me more confident as I approach my own job. Unfortunately, I have to replace my inner rockers as well. I tried to find a body shop that would do the job but they were all consumed with doing insurance-collision work. I have the aftermarket panels and I'm ready to remove the box and get to it. My truck is loaded with options. Otherwise I'd just find another truck. The cost of a replacement vehicle is exorbitant therefore this is my only choice. Great work.
It’s hard to get shops to do this work, the industry has changed, they are now collision repair shops, not body shops. Price of trucks is why my little shop is always booked up forever. Good luck with your project!
G'day from your neighbor in Alberta! Thanks for posting this. Looks like a good bit of work but I'm looking to do inners and outers on my 06 silverado extended cab come spring.
Cool, hopefully the videos are helpful!
Looks like you have went above and beyond doing the frame, did you spray or brush it ?
I sprayed it, I’ve done a few like that, I thin the POR probably 10-15% , and as long as it’s sealed all around seems to last really well
Nice work! A couple of questions, if you don’t mind.
What would you estimate your time in the repair all in?, and is that a Camaro I see in the background? Future plans?
I was shocked to see all of the mud and crud inside of those rockers. This looked like it might have been a flood vehicle at some point.
These are typically around $4000 (Canadian) part’s and labor, pretty normal for them to be full of dirt and mud in this area. Can’t remember what I had in the shop at the time, was doing a long term 70 Charger, and I have an orange 69 Firebird, that might have been inside as well
@@Johnnymidnight Thanks for the reply. I read a few of the comments and saw your reply to another on total cost. I was curious as to the approximate hours it takes you to do the rust repair part of the job. The overall cost seems to me as money well spent to extend the useful life of a truck and keep it presentable. Makes a good illustration as to the value of preventative measures like Krown, or even used motor oil as as you mentioned. There’s another autobody channel local to me here in Michigan, Lakeside Autobody, that features a lot of rust repair and “how to” for the DIYer. He swears by used motor oil in rockers, doors, etc. His rust repairs are more down and dirty but functional than “restorative” as yours are. Interesting to see the differences in approaches. Subbed!
Oh that’s cool, I’ll have to check out their channel as well 👍🏼👍🏼
Great video and great work. Exactly what I needed to watch. Great job my friend.
Nice video! I currently have a gmc savana box truck a used Penske truck 2004. No bodyshop around me does rust repair anymore. They all referred me to the same guy. I went to him for an estimate and said let's do it. My rocker panels were pretty rusty. He's charging me $1,900 for both panels and some of the back corner near the box. He also recommended a rust treatment for the frame of the whole truck for $1,800. Does this sound reasonable to you? Thanks
1900 is definitely fair for the rockers, when I do them it’s typically around 4000 (Canadian) for rockers and cab corners, but I only use the OE style full rockers, there are much cheaper stamped “slip on “ rockers available as well. I did a more recent video where I show the difference in the parts.ruclips.net/video/y8MySLmvC3o/видео.htmlsi=viws7yI6q8w6i03S. As for the extra rust treatment for 1800, hard to say not knowing exactly what he would be doing.
Ok thanks for your reply! I'll check out your video link. Good to know that's a reasonable price. As far as the rust treatment. He said they'll knock off any loose rust on the frame and apply a chemical that does something with the rust on the frame and then paint the frame to help prevent any further rust issues. I was thinking it was just like spraying the frame with undercoating but he said it's better. He said undercoating is just masking the rusty frame where what he's doing will protect it better. I just well why he has it just do it to help with the rust and hopefully protect it to get a couple more years out of it.
Sounds reasonable, these trucks are worth spending a few bucks on, especially living in the age where new trucks cost more than my first house 😉
@@JohnnymidnightJust finishing up a full body off frame restoration on a GMT 400 including the powertrain. Probably close to mid $30’s invested but I already owned the truck. Can depreciate the cost all in one year vs a new truck over 5yrs and it cost me less than half to do it. It’s a no brainer for me.
Rust belt experience shows big time in this video! Nice work and great attention to rust prevention details. My son and I are doing the same job on the same truck this summer. I’m in the states (Massachusetts) and curious where we could find 13 gauge panels? Mill supply and Raybuck don’t specify. Probably just give ‘em a call? Anyway, Nice job!
Check your local auto parts store, they will most likely be able to get them from Keystone, for extended cab they are RRP1404 & 1405, crew cab RRP1459 & 1460👍🏼
I’ve never used the composite parts, but they look pretty good. They would probably be tricky if the inners needed replacement, but definitely look like a viable option 👍🏼
If I decide to go with them I’ll let you know.
Nice job John! Going to be solid and good when you're done. Hey what brand of rust repair panels
are the thick good ones you like? The thin ones are way harder to butt weld to. Thanks, keep up the great work.
The full rockers from keystone cross Canada are really super good quality, the cheap slip on rockers aren’t nearly as good, but they have their place.
have you ever replaced the inner rocker? and how hard is that to replace?
no need to take the cab off ? if you were doing the inner rocker?
They can be a bit tricky, the way they have to fit up sort of between the edge of the floor and the cab mounts, but not terrible. Sometimes you have to splice in a couple spots to get them to fit in nice
No need to remove the cab
What would you cahrge for something like this i know every trucks different but just a ball park?
They typically end up being around $4500 (Canadian)
What are the plans for the golden nugget this summer? Love that car!
I have some more work ti do on it, I signed up to do a 1000 km drag and drive event in June with her….. should have it out of storage pretty darn soon 👍🏼👍🏼
Can you paint por 15 over a blotchy combination of sanded old paint, bare metal and mostly removed rust?
BTW I subscribed
POR 15 actually doesn’t adhere very well to clean metal, but I’ve used it pretty much exactly as you’ve described without issue😉
Did this twice on my truck. Easier than to patch.
Yes, it’s rarely worth patching them up, they just rust through farther up
23:31 By cutting through the old and new at the same time, how do you get a perfect fit for a butt weld? Won't there be a gap equal to the width of the kerf (roughly the thickness of the cutting wheel)?
Yep, but you can usually adjust the panel a hair to tighten it up if necessary
thx for the video i have an 05 crew cab and my sons 04 extended cab to do... btw if you had a little gray going on you look just like my cousin
👴🏼😁
How did you separate the bedbites when you got rid of Spot wells is it called a splitter
I use an air hammer with a chisel bit on it
You can definitely unplug the front doors it’s right behind that little triangle side panel where the dash meets the door
Yep, embarrassed to say this is how I was shown, and did it for years 🤦🏻♂️. Thankfully I now know better
The harness unplugs from the fuse box on either side of the dash
Yes, I did these this way forever, because I was told they didn’t unplug 🤦🏻♂️. I know now how to do them properly 🥴
My doors on my truck have surface rust and bubbling paint and 2 pen holes. Are those doors savable 2008
Hard to say, the biggest thing is the inside pinchwelds, once they’re swollen It can become a big job
Hey where do I buy them? I have an 2015 gmc Sierra ext cab
Any auto parts store should be able to supply these parts
SUB'D... used motor oil or fluid film is BY FAR better than painting the insides
Whats the price on this roughly
Typically around $4000 before taxes (Canadian)
You can unplug front door wing just have to take them out of the fuse box next to
The glove box.
Yes, I’m embarrassed to say for years I didn’t know that. I was told long ago this is how they had to be done, and I never questioned it 🤦🏻♂️
So I’m an ole Diy kinda guy and long story short one of Alfa insurances full coverage drivers hit my wife in my truck and police report even says they’re at fault but they denied the claim haha ironically and 100% no reason other than they just don’t want to pay and of course nobody will take the case because there’s no injuries so I have to take them to small claims court we’ll all of that just seems like a waste of my time especially if somehow I end up loosing so I just can’t take the loss of more than I already am because at that point ima just accidentally total my vehicle into the guys car that sent me the letter saying they don’t see any fault on there driver🤣 f him.
But I’m gonna replace the driver front and rear door and attempt rocker panel replacement but I’m gonna use automotive touch up paint I’ve used them in the past on some plastic 2011 Yukon bumpers and it works very very well surprisingly I first seen it used on a buddies truck fender and it was black with metallic flakes so we was watching this go down in our buddies shop about 8 of us talking bs about rattle can paint on a almost brand new vehicle haha and they shook them cans up sprayed it on and at first we was like oh that’s gonna look like shit haha and it dried and we all was in pure shock then the clear coat I’m a can never in my life have I seen clear coat from a can look good but after it was done I’d swear by it and the fact we did it in a shop bay that doesn’t resemble a paint booth or shop at all that’s constantly got dirt etc in it and it still turned out damn near perfect you can’t go wrong with it so for any of you that aren’t painters etc Automotive Touchup is the way to go google it you give them the paint code for your vehicle and they ship it to you this stuff saved my ass some money when I ordered what I needed from them I got I bought everything from them primer base coat and clear I didn’t want to mix brands and have an issue so I hope this helps someone out.
Oof truck rolled in with a rusted frame and came out painted.
And your point is?
You've done a MILLION of these repairs?? I'm going to call BS and stop watching. Something about starting a video with a flat out lie that just says stop. Bye😢😢
Actually 1.5 million, that was a low estimate
Quick question: What was the approx hrs/cost of cutting out the old and welding in the new? Thanks!
Typically around $4500 in my shop
@@Johnnymidnight Thanks for your quick reply!
@@Johnnymidnight where do u buy the replacement panels from?
@@billywhalin4051I get everything through LKQ Canada
@@Johnnymidnight so a keystone panel correct