Recreating an ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Look ?!

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  • Опубликовано: 28 апр 2021
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    / gunnardeatherage
    Firstly.... I know how ambitious this is, hahaha! I'm legit trying to recreate a masterpiece as far as craftsmanship goes.. BUT I love a challenge. I would also like to note that I'm not recreating these for profit/ trying to detour anything away from McQueen... This is just an appreciation project trying to further my skillset. As a self taught designer, I learn on EVERY project, and this one in particular REALLY challenged me!
    The smocking took almost 4 full days. It wasn't;t perfect, but it got better the longer I did it, ha! The tortoise shell harness was really a feat. I created the pattern on a dress form, and my friend vectorized the pattern, and cut it out on my Cricut Maker from Clear Worbla plastic. We then printed the tortoise shell print onto a clear vinyl( clear because we wanted light to come through it like real tortoise shell.) I chose to make it lace up, because I was sending this dress to environmental activist/ Drag Queen Pattie-Gonia, and I had never actually fit her before. This was our first creative project together!
    If you'd like to check out my other socials, you can look at the links below!
    Instagram- / gunnardeatherage
    Tiktok- / gunnardeatherage
    Website- gunnardeatherage.com​​​​​
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Комментарии • 3,2 тыс.

  • @hannahfanning9585
    @hannahfanning9585 3 года назад +8901

    Every video he uses more complex techniques and makes even more unique dresses. I love seeing all of the amazing creations and seeing him learn at the same time.

  • @noelsouthmoor
    @noelsouthmoor 3 года назад +5717

    Gunnar: We created the harness using a Cricut machine.
    Me, looking at my Cricut: We have GOT to do better.

    • @ChannelFiend
      @ChannelFiend 3 года назад +45

      Ha ha ha!!! Too funny!!!

    • @janetp4268
      @janetp4268 3 года назад +15

      Best! Comment! Ever!😂😂😂

    • @noelsouthmoor
      @noelsouthmoor 3 года назад +34

      @Rach Even the Explore Air 2 will cut materials like fabric, birch, cork, various foams, and magnetic sheets! The maker is definitely the one that does acrylic, balsawood, thin metals, and the like, though. A thing of beauty. 😭

    • @noelsouthmoor
      @noelsouthmoor 3 года назад +3

      @@janetp4268 Thank you, friend! 💗💗💗

    • @dannytonnessen6896
      @dannytonnessen6896 3 года назад +20

      I’ve never even heard of them and y’all already got em... 🤦‍♀️ dammit I’m always behind haha 🤣

  • @bellahontas510
    @bellahontas510 Год назад +197

    I came back to watch this yet again because you absolutely slayed that honeycomb smocking

    • @littleblackcat813
      @littleblackcat813 7 месяцев назад +1

      The effort was worth it. It looks amazing

    • @sgrubbs0657
      @sgrubbs0657 15 дней назад

      I thought I was the only one watching multiple times. Like I’m going to gain some knowledge to see better if I watch him enough! (I won’t. I only wish I could sew! )

  • @ChefChas82
    @ChefChas82 11 месяцев назад +40

    This is absolutely stunning. The final look with the wig and makeup was perfect.

  • @stellastamatopoulos3001
    @stellastamatopoulos3001 Год назад +1053

    I've been sewing for 48 years and I've never seen such spectacular work. You're very talented and patient.

    • @notwerkinginthishouse8634
      @notwerkinginthishouse8634 Год назад +2

      Wish i could design

    • @donnawestbrook8992
      @donnawestbrook8992 7 месяцев назад +2

      ​@@notwerkinginthishouse8634 design is just bringing various ideas together. The more you see that you love, the easier that becomes. Learning or coming up with the techniques to make them is often tougher.

  • @Michelle-oo9gp
    @Michelle-oo9gp 2 года назад +4596

    Anyone who has ever sewn anything in their life just cried with the amount of work that must have gone into that. Completely solo and with no assistants to do the beading? Pure talent and dedication.

  • @S0o00o0
    @S0o00o0 Год назад +74

    This is pure talent can we just acknowledge the nails compliment the dress when they are sewing ❤

  • @janfuller3043
    @janfuller3043 Год назад +22

    You are without question the most talented person I've ever seen.

  • @whitneylivingston4171
    @whitneylivingston4171 3 года назад +2910

    Holy jeez! You are the best! The honeycomb is too much I can’t - it’s literal art - it’s textile art - I love it so much.

    • @josefinaolvera9145
      @josefinaolvera9145 3 года назад +7

      I love. You. See. You. Work. Hermoso. Vendiciones

    • @dyscea
      @dyscea 3 года назад +7

      4 days. Sounds like a good quarantine and Netflix binge activity.

    • @jujujewel2172
      @jujujewel2172 3 года назад +14

      I know insane right, the patience and dedication as well as skills... Kinda inspiring though as well as overwhelming, when you think about it, probably because it's such a quick short video for a complex process, and looks like he just waved a magic wand, or he is a sort of magician - VOILA !

    • @joannechludzinski1805
      @joannechludzinski1805 3 года назад +2

      Wow, gorgeous.

    • @SaltySeaWitch3
      @SaltySeaWitch3 3 года назад +1

      Absolutely agree!

  • @michelleadamchak1330
    @michelleadamchak1330 3 года назад +612

    Whenever I look up the word skill in the dictionary.....Gunnar Deatherage's picture is included in the description. Unbelievable amounts of talent this man possesses!!

    • @Swnsasy
      @Swnsasy 3 года назад +12

      Could not agree more! I'm so obsessed with watching his shorts! He's amazing

  • @olgaherdova3206
    @olgaherdova3206 Год назад +11

    This beautiful dress is a literal masterpiece. Love it ❤

  • @R7Boogieboy
    @R7Boogieboy Год назад +13

    What a triumph! You are so talented!

  • @24carrotgold8
    @24carrotgold8 3 года назад +398

    I used to smock pillows about 50 years ago. Connecting the dots is tedious but fun. I also used the technique to make an adult pineapple costume for Halloween. Loved seeing it used in this video 🤗👍🥳

    • @lucindasmith589
      @lucindasmith589 3 года назад +35

      My mum smocked a wee dress for me when I was 5 (about 50 years ago too). I still have it. These skills should NEVER die!

    • @marthaross6301
      @marthaross6301 3 года назад +16

      I learned about 25 years ago. And am now only hand pleating as I lost my specific machine in a basement flood....🤷🏼‍♀️
      I wore smocking as a child too🌹 60yrs....

    • @wrenpeach6707
      @wrenpeach6707 3 года назад +11

      That pineapple must have been so cute!

    • @jujujewel2172
      @jujujewel2172 3 года назад +4

      That sounds lovely. Would be nice to have a skill like that. I bet my mum would love something like that in some pillows or cussions, a beautiful technique.
      We had what I remember as mock smocking, mass produced dresses done by machine when I was little, you know that stretchy top part of a dress, made with elastic thread I think? Before lycra was a thing and stretch fabric. Might have been one of my favourite dresses was that style, now come to think of it... One that mum says and I actually remember chasing around the washing line screaming for my dress! may still be in fashion nowadays for kids, I'm almost sure I've seen something like it on the little princess Charlotte, daughter of prince William and Katherine once not too long ago...if I'm not mistaken... Something in a blue...
      Or maybe it was real smocking since they are rich!!? But will have to see it again to be sure
      Anyway that Halloween costume would have been loads of fun, a lot of work but I bet it looked awesome

  • @user-zp8sk2rc4m
    @user-zp8sk2rc4m 3 года назад +159

    Still trying to pick my jaw off the floor.

  • @robertbeining141
    @robertbeining141 9 месяцев назад +4

    Absolutely gorgeous Gunnar!! So talented.

  • @highenergyjenny
    @highenergyjenny 8 месяцев назад +1

    I’ve sewn for 45 years and never could I do this. I gasp when I watch your videos. ❤❤

  • @siobhanmacandrew7068
    @siobhanmacandrew7068 Год назад +552

    This dress totally deserves to be in a museum - utterly wonderful

    • @glorybr
      @glorybr Год назад +9

      Except it already exists

    • @mochaabunn
      @mochaabunn Год назад +3

      It’s seriously a piece of art!

    • @dorisreese2440
      @dorisreese2440 Год назад +1

      Sublime!
      Where’s your workshop? I just want to see this place where you create your art.

    • @anhingasnakebird9947
      @anhingasnakebird9947 Год назад +4

      @@mochaabunn The McQueen dress is a work of art. This is a copy. He did a great job but I’m pretty sure even Gunnar wouldn’t say a copy is art.

  • @christineguo5912
    @christineguo5912 2 года назад +1210

    and THIS is why I love to watch runway show video’s because every piece of clothing is art, some may not look that pretty but it’s still someone’s hard work

  • @catherinehiller2619
    @catherinehiller2619 Месяц назад +1

    Just amazing, from that fabric to the attention to detail!

  • @colleenuchiyama4916
    @colleenuchiyama4916 Год назад

    What a tour de force, Gunnar! OMFG!!! The smocking! Smocking is sooo hard to do. I’m blown away by your skills. Patty is one lucky person!!!

  • @digitalharmony26
    @digitalharmony26 2 года назад +448

    The beehive hairdo was a great touch. Those little bees were adorable.
    Clearly I know nothing about sewing or dressmaking but gorgeous turnout.

  • @AdoreYouDarling
    @AdoreYouDarling 3 года назад +197

    Jeez, I've never seen a more well made dress.

  • @sugarblunt
    @sugarblunt Год назад +1

    I have watched this so many times, and every time it comes up on my RUclips. I watch it again gladly. Mesmerizing.

  • @micheledimond
    @micheledimond Год назад +1

    Wow! You outdid yourself. Really really fantastic! You're creating amazing pieces and the reveal was great! Perfect!

  • @preranajoshi2661
    @preranajoshi2661 3 года назад +328

    as a fashion design student, i know how hard smocking is so the fact that you made the entire torso AND bust using honeycomb smocking- respecttttt

  • @allisonh2340
    @allisonh2340 2 года назад +271

    The final look in full drag actually made me tear up it's so freaking gorgeous 😭

    • @sndirdir
      @sndirdir Год назад +8

      So much lie...

    • @cirrus808
      @cirrus808 Год назад

      ​@@sndirdir youre going to die alone

    • @cirrus808
      @cirrus808 Год назад +1

      @@sndirdir so much lie...

    • @Bratzismylife
      @Bratzismylife Год назад +1

      Yea it made cry so much 😭🤣

    • @baldbicth123
      @baldbicth123 Год назад +2

      Good God girl get a grip

  • @Cindy-sb5dv
    @Cindy-sb5dv Год назад +1

    This is awesome!
    I'm amazed at your patience as I know it was a labor of 💕

  • @aprilporter6092
    @aprilporter6092 4 месяца назад

    Wow,Gunnar! What a fabulous work of art! The honeycomb is flawless. Bravo!

  • @samjaneczek9570
    @samjaneczek9570 3 года назад +94

    That's a crazy amount of work and you absolutely nailed it! Your work is beautiful. ❤️

  • @addiresh
    @addiresh 3 года назад +57

    U did so well it looks so good

  • @emmamcmahon1738
    @emmamcmahon1738 Год назад +2

    I would totally wear this for my wedding dress! Absolutely beautiful!

  • @Isla_1293
    @Isla_1293 11 месяцев назад +2

    Ur nails are literally to die for 😍😍

  • @lauranyc4966
    @lauranyc4966 3 года назад +372

    I own many many Alexander McQueen pieces and I was lucky enough I purchased it when he was alive😢 . He was Einstein of the fashion world 😭 RIP my Darling 🙏🏻

    • @dianafelizia6141
      @dianafelizia6141 3 года назад +21

      So he discovered the photoelectric effect?

    • @irishcountrygirl78
      @irishcountrygirl78 3 года назад +3

      @@dianafelizia6141 lol

    • @jujujewel2172
      @jujujewel2172 3 года назад +28

      @@dianafelizia6141 I think she was trying to say he was a "genius" of the fashion world, as in BRILLIANT - in a different way, obviously, more creatively, but which also requires intelligence - not that he was LITERALLY Einstein. I don't know why you would take it that way

    • @uselessSam
      @uselessSam 3 года назад +17

      @@jujujewel2172 r/wooosh

    • @gladitsnotme
      @gladitsnotme 3 года назад +11

      @@jujujewel2172 you must be fun at parties

  • @FemaleNerdatron
    @FemaleNerdatron 3 года назад +47

    DAMN! The final result is pressed flat and B E A U T I F U L

  • @margaretvalentine5957
    @margaretvalentine5957 25 дней назад +1

    This one gives me chills & goosebumps seeing it at the end. Blessed be the bees.🐝
    The dress. Wow!!! And she wears it beautifully.

  • @11angelavia11
    @11angelavia11 Месяц назад

    Absolutely amazing!!! The smocking is just fantastic and fabulous!!!!! The dress is awesome!!! 🐝

  • @janepettibone4648
    @janepettibone4648 3 года назад +25

    Wow so incredibly stunning gorgeous. You are so talented!

  • @karagibby7263
    @karagibby7263 3 года назад +56

    Omg, this dress is one of the most fantastic pieces of clothing I've ever seen! Your work is so meticulous & detailed & flawless--truly a beautiful work of art!

  • @erinobrien8793
    @erinobrien8793 Год назад +1

    Such amazing work. I am glad you like challenging yourself to create memorable designs and clothes. You truly have a gift.

  • @theresabrendible4410
    @theresabrendible4410 Месяц назад

    Gunner your fabrics are taking on a whole... new dimensions! 😮 Wow!

  • @Barb5000
    @Barb5000 3 года назад +187

    Congratulations you're smocking is absolutely impeccable. I was a teenager when my mom taught me how to do smocking and I used to make smocked pillows as gifts for people all the time, so I know how much work goes into this technique. Smocking like too many other kinds of needlework, such as tatting, are becoming lost arts. This dress is truly an exquisite work of art!

    • @barbaramobley8845
      @barbaramobley8845 3 года назад +4

      So true about the lost art. People now use machines to embroider. What fun is that? I love to hand embroider! I actually did a smocked yoke on a doll dress a while back (hadn't done any sense I was a kid). I used gingham which makes it easier to follow the pattern. I was so proud of how cute it turned out but omgosh what he did here!!! No words! 😲

  • @katemyers7042
    @katemyers7042 3 года назад +6

    All of your creations are beautiful! I would love to see your take on that dreamy strawberry print dress that went viral a little while back! I have dreams of wearing that dress one day 🥰

  • @renb6133
    @renb6133 Год назад

    That’s outstanding, Gunnar. You just keep getting better & better! Congratulations, my love, you completely nailed it. Magnificent! 💕

  • @straightgeeked
    @straightgeeked 9 месяцев назад

    "This smocking was so haaaaaard but also... I'll make yall a lil tute for fun." I love it

  • @n.l.vannstallings4664
    @n.l.vannstallings4664 Год назад +41

    This is insane amount of talent and craftsmanship. I'm so proud of you 👏

  • @DawnOldham
    @DawnOldham 3 года назад +15

    I took the time to make screen shots of the original dress and the amazing dress you made. I emailed them to myself so I could compare them. You NAILED this! It’s one of my very favorites from your channel!

  • @roostercogburn6469
    @roostercogburn6469 Месяц назад

    Wow! You can do anything, and with each successful project, you take on something more difficult! You're a beast! I love your tenacity and strength!

  • @CharlieApples
    @CharlieApples Год назад

    Wow!! It was worth all the work! What an incredible usage of texture. It reminds me of sunflowers, honeycomb, summer…it’s so evocative.

  • @riverbarra2584
    @riverbarra2584 3 года назад +46

    The level of your talent is unbelievable, hope to see you with your own fashion house someday in the future.

  • @Looseer
    @Looseer 2 года назад +228

    Dear lord that looks complicated, but they look amazing in it.

    • @iimdone
      @iimdone 2 года назад +1

      that was his friend lol

    • @thingamajacky
      @thingamajacky 2 года назад +1

      @@iimdone 'they' as in the pronouns they/them.

    • @fighterflight
      @fighterflight 2 года назад

      could be wrong but think it’s generally ok to say “she” for a drag queen…? nothing wrong with they / them either

    • @thingamajacky
      @thingamajacky 2 года назад

      @@fighterflight it's not generally ok to assume anything these days. the world has well and truly gone mad trying to accommodate all sorts of unnecessary bullshit.

  • @spathecadet42o
    @spathecadet42o Год назад

    W O W !!! The tort is just *muah* perfect 🤩 and please please do release a video on the smocking, that would be an amazing technique to see explained in action.

  • @katherinereardon1716
    @katherinereardon1716 Год назад +2

    You are a gift, an absolute gift. Thank you ❤

  • @GarwoodNick
    @GarwoodNick 3 года назад +13

    The hardest thing ever done by the most talented designer I know

  • @adelinas.7335
    @adelinas.7335 3 года назад +51

    The background music with your soothing voice is like ASMR. Of course the dress turned out 💋- magnifique! You are so talented! Seeing the end result is always the icing on the cake in these short videos!

    • @linabensa3724
      @linabensa3724 2 года назад

      Do you know what the background music is called?

  • @1234cheerful
    @1234cheerful Год назад

    Patty Gonia was really feeling it in the final reveal. A complete success!

  • @cshijinx
    @cshijinx Год назад +1

    Omg it's so beautiful. It's always great when the piece comes together and looks amazing

  • @m4rz585
    @m4rz585 3 года назад +91

    this dress is gorgeous!! Your friend look absolutely stunning and your dresses always look amazing! Cantou please next try and recreate the dress from the Helena music video from My Chemical Romance? The song means so much to me and I'd love to see what you can do💜💜

    • @th3yloveana
      @th3yloveana 2 года назад +1

      Yesss his friend looks so good at the end

  • @dudie812
    @dudie812 2 года назад +28

    Beyond words. You're just so gifted

  • @rosamundg.3789
    @rosamundg.3789 Год назад

    I got anxiety just watching all the honeycomb prep. The honeybee detailing is just genius. Another triumph!

  • @deeclear
    @deeclear Год назад +1

    Holy shit! The talent is real. It is gorgeous.

  • @anieluvs20
    @anieluvs20 3 года назад +3

    Oh my goodness! That is amazing work, its brilliant!

    • @anieluvs20
      @anieluvs20 3 года назад

      I had to watch this at least 5 times.

  • @girlunrepentant1254
    @girlunrepentant1254 2 года назад +21

    That dress is stunning, and I love how your friend looks in it. And her beehive hairdo is a hilarious and wonderful addition.

  • @j.whiteoak6408
    @j.whiteoak6408 Год назад +2

    You have an insane amount of talent! ❤️

  • @duckbilledmonfrogga
    @duckbilledmonfrogga Год назад +1

    There are no words for how gorgeous this dress is. I'm speechless and overcome. ~Amy Shelton

  • @jaimejohnesee
    @jaimejohnesee 3 года назад +4

    Your dress, and your friend, are absolutely stunning! Your friends are lucky, lucky people. 💙

  • @leslieholland6477
    @leslieholland6477 Год назад +29

    Such an incredible piece to replicate. Your skills and vision elevate you to an artisan!!

  • @larademiney7914
    @larademiney7914 Год назад

    The reveal at the end was beautiful! I love the beehive hairdo!!! But a stunning ensemble for sure ❤

  • @redheadwithafierytemper5668
    @redheadwithafierytemper5668 Год назад

    The dress and the Queen are stunning !!!

  • @jenng1929
    @jenng1929 3 года назад +6

    Your a phenomenal designer! I love how you make each piece with so much love and hard work ❤️ I'd love too see you create the white Marilyn Monroe dress with your take on it 😁 that would be awesome, that's one of my all time favorite dresses.

  • @daphne-blue
    @daphne-blue 2 года назад +48

    man, this is gorgeous; the craftsmanship that went into this is impressive 💙

  • @baddie1shoe
    @baddie1shoe Год назад

    The honeycomb smocking with bees…you are so skilled. Bravo!

  • @cynthiajo4029
    @cynthiajo4029 8 месяцев назад

    I love seeing someone take a fabric and make it another fabric... that is pure genius

  • @lucindasmith589
    @lucindasmith589 3 года назад +8

    Soooo amazing. Yours is the first Patreon I've considered supporting. Your work is gorgeous pieces of art, your videos are entertaining but it's also a public service; teaching sewing techniques and keeping craft skills alive. Such an inspiration. I'd pay to see that!!! Love ya!

  • @mishynaofficial
    @mishynaofficial 3 года назад +7

    This dress is gorgeous! You're so skilled and talented and hardworking. Bravo!

  • @elenakarlak4617
    @elenakarlak4617 Год назад

    You have absolutely outdone yourself. That dress is phenomenal. You are the Bee’s knees!!!

  • @sgrubbs0657
    @sgrubbs0657 15 дней назад

    That is amazing and the reveal did NOT disappoint! That color is lovely! Omgosh I’m in love with this dress!

  • @pixi3d3ath47
    @pixi3d3ath47 Год назад +7

    This really makes me appreciate your craftsmanship as well as the dedication and effort designers put into their pieces.

  • @Sammie.D51
    @Sammie.D51 3 года назад +10

    This is one of the most adorable dresses I’ve ever seen! I absolutely adore bees, and I would’ve probably worn this to a daddy daughter dance when I was little!

  • @dianaprince3176
    @dianaprince3176 9 месяцев назад

    GUNNAR! Holy bells balls! That looks incredible and the tortoiseshell harness you made is next level. FIRE! 🔥🔥🔥

  • @zombiedoggie2732
    @zombiedoggie2732 Год назад +1

    I believe the cage peice that is supporting the dress's shape are called panniers.

  • @miniorite3297
    @miniorite3297 2 года назад +8

    Honestly, this isn't my type of content, but I can appreciate the amount of work that this must have taken.

  • @veslemykaen3860
    @veslemykaen3860 3 года назад +13

    This remains one of the most memorable shows I’ve ever seen! I remember watching it it awe. Those beautiful, huge dresses. You did an amazing job - and I love Pattie in it! Marvelous.

  • @bluegirl2902
    @bluegirl2902 Год назад

    This dress is so impressive & showcases your talent perfectly. Your abilities are impressive.

  • @fernunrau7315
    @fernunrau7315 8 месяцев назад

    I cannot believe your patience in creating these works of art. Unreal!!

  • @luiginick
    @luiginick 2 года назад +25

    This is stunning. I’ve wished for so long that men had more mainstream options to accessorize or enhance their wardrobes, or to-you know-create and wear full external body cages with a Cricut Machine… and this is yet another reason why.

  • @nicolesargsyan8113
    @nicolesargsyan8113 2 года назад +5

    I swear, your versions are ALWAYS the best! Bravo, you are so talented! 👏🏻 🐝🐢

  • @yvonnemiles7633
    @yvonnemiles7633 11 месяцев назад +1

    That dress is amazing and I loved the Bees on it. Such a lot of intricate work! Xx

  • @victoriamaclaren568
    @victoriamaclaren568 Год назад

    BEAUTIFUL JOB Gunnar!! Stunning!

  • @madi9443
    @madi9443 2 года назад +5

    OMG this is STUNNING! Your friend looks gorgeous in the dress!

  • @k.d.1050
    @k.d.1050 3 года назад +6

    This is by far one of my most favorite things you've ever recreated. I would shave my head & tattoo some bees on my scalp if I could wear this dress.

  • @indiabilly
    @indiabilly 11 месяцев назад

    That’s absolutely phenomenal! I love the smocking it’s so clever and precise xx

  • @MoriaCooper-ln2tz
    @MoriaCooper-ln2tz 8 месяцев назад

    This is my favorite. I love the smoking! I love to watch you work. Thank you!

  • @Ananthaanmi
    @Ananthaanmi 3 года назад +4

    Love youso much bro my role model ♥️♥️

  • @foggyfrogg
    @foggyfrogg 2 года назад +3

    That's amazing! The craftsmanship and heart you put into your clothing is always so awesome to watch! Pure artistry! The dress came out so good and your friend looks awesome in it as well!

  • @jennyschur6687
    @jennyschur6687 Год назад

    Absolutely stunning!!!!! I don’t think people who don’t sew understand how difficult smocking is. ❤

  • @chigrashark5592
    @chigrashark5592 8 месяцев назад

    I love the honeycomb smocking! Beautiful!

  • @red11232003
    @red11232003 Год назад +53

    Your hands are a gift from God. Thank you for blessing us with your talent!

  • @lisaruppert-dies2147
    @lisaruppert-dies2147 2 года назад +3

    I love how you coordinate your nails with your creations. It's so pleasing to the eye. 8-)

  • @TheJoyNinjaNZ
    @TheJoyNinjaNZ Год назад

    Amazing work Gunnar - McQueen was a spectacular and rare talent, and I feel like you have done him justice with this recreation - yes please to the honeycomb smocking tutorial

  • @muurrarium9460
    @muurrarium9460 Год назад

    Forget the dress, I LOVE your nails!!
    So good!