You could put a higher camera angle canopy on it and achieve that, but I personally prefer props or ducts in view. You will see from my history that I always post the "cockpit" view with full osd.
Thanks! I cut this video short to not bore the audience. Just looked on my SD card, and I have one flight that's a hair over 4 minutes with fairly aggressive( for me) flying, including quite a few powerloop attempts. These WeBleed "folded" cells with BT2 connectors really do perform. The 1103's are probably actually too much motor, and I have the throttle cut to 75% to not cause brown-outs. But it gets kinda hard to find lower KV motors in smaller than 1103. These are 1103 10kv. Coulda probably used 6-8k. She cruised at like 17% throttle before the throttle cut was put in place.
Nice build. I've built something similar a year or so ago. It is my most flown digital build, since I can fly it in my yard. I basically took a happymodel crux3 and added a naked vista, so it has 12025 6400kv motors. 69g including a 5g vifly beeper, since I lost the first one which hurt the wallet. I mostly use 2s 350mah on mine and get similar flight times. I'm going to try what you did with your throttle, as I have a lot of wasted resolution flying in the yard. Happy Labor Day! Edit: Just realized it is an 03. Even more awesome. I'd like to upgrade mine at some point.
Awesome. 1103 10000kv are normaly fine, if you use some gemfan 3016 or 3018 props on 2S. The emax are too agressive pitch. Very quiet though, because they make thrust at low RPM with the high pitch. If you want same light motors with lower kv, try 1103 8000kv or 1202.5 6000kv. Nice to see people going naked O3. If you want quiet props, try HQ 65mmx6.
Thanks for the suggestions. One of my primary objectives for a light build with large props is noise. So the smaller props are pretty much out. Might try the lower kv motors on the next build. For now, a 75% throttle limit is mostly working out. I did have one more brown-out when I almost hit a tree and went full throttle. For most of my flying, I'm still only hitting 50% throttle with the 75% cut, so I could probably move the overall cut down a bit more. Or maybe I can go to those lower kv if I damage these,....
@@rcrdps8144 I sepcialized in low noise builds. Just Trust me on the low noise props and give the hq 65mmx6 a try. Costs you peanuts. You'll agree with me afterwards they are most silent. Good luck with the builds
Nice one dude. I’m looking in to building a dji o3 toothpick. What frame did you use. ? I have a crux 3” frame I think I’m gona use for mine. Good work bro. Just subbed you deserve more mate. Just made a video from yours. Let’s hope it’s gets more views for you. 👏🏻
Thanks! The frame is an FPVCycle Babytooth. Haven't really touched my drones much lately. I tend to cycle through my hobbies. I did go to fly the other day, and my mode switch was broken off. Waiting on parts,.... Still keeping an eye on the newest DJI goggles, but probably won't go for them until there's an air unit that can do the higher bandwidth. Then you'll maybe see another build video from me. ;)
@@rcrdps8144 ah nice one cheers. Yeah I’m the same dude. I went to fly one of my toothpicks yesterday wouldn’t bind. Then it just didn’t work after 🤷♂️🤦🏼♂️. Had a fly today tho . You gota feed the the withdrawal symptoms 😂 not flown in ages. So it felt good. Yeah I’ve only just gone to digital flying. So they bring a new one out lol.
Pretty cool canopy. I like the larva X. I have an AOS T3 toothpick at 116 grams with 850 mAh 3S and flywoo locator. Flight time is 15 minutes in hover and 8 minutes in bando. Keeping it light allows 5g punch outs. I'm upgrading to the DJI O3 boards, but the 1.6mm is a beeeich. I found that I can cut the threads of the 2mm bolts down to 1.8mm and then down to 1.6mm very cleanly using HSSE dies. I'll do a video. I'm waiting for custom titanium M2 by 35mm screws that I will cut down and some custom 1.6mm nylon.
Yeah, if you check out my whoop video with O3, you see me drill out the O3 board to 2mm. You end up breaking open at least one of the holes, but it is fine. But I'm also 3d printing my 2mm bolts, so I could do 1.6,.. but really, they need all the strength they can get. Any large crash, and I have to reprint everything. I've made gradual changes to the mount to beef it up after each crash. Haven't posted the current changes to thingiverse,...
@@rcrdps8144 I'm spending about $1,000 on custom dual thread M2 and M1.6 titanium bolts, M1.6 aluminum locknuts with nylon inserts and M1.6 nylon hex standoffs. I would prefer hardened aluminum bolts that 30mm long, but the only company that I found to make long aluminum bolts messes up the heat treating twice.
@@microdronetech8453 I have a resin printer. Right now I'm printing with Syria Tech Blu/Black, which is a "tough" resin. I do have to relax the tolerances a little because of light bleed through on the bottom half of the thread causing it to blob slightly. When I run out of this resin, I hope to switch to Syria Tech Tenacious, which is opaque, so hopefully won't have the light bleed issue and create tighter tolerances while still being a strong "nylon-like" resin. But what I have works for me for now,....except I've have to rebuild if I hit a branch,....
This toothpick configuration seems very conducive to the o3's heat shedding requirements, with all the props right up against the vtx's sides, now I just wonder how much it mitigates the loss of the outer shell.
I've always( since v1 air units) felt like the shell was just physical protection, and had to be like a heatsink to get the heat out of that shell. But with zero air movement sitting on the bench or sitting on the ground, it does seem to heat up faster. Once in the air, there's very little difference. With v1 and wtfos, you could watch the actual temp reading, and it was really close between my de-cased quad and a stock one. I haven't seen the numbers on the toothpick, but yes, it probably runs even cooler.
Depends on whether the air unit decides to boost power or not, for proximity flying it really doesn't need to adjust power much unless there is suddenly a need for signal penetration, in which a cooler o3 will hesitate less.
It's just one of the checkboxes when you're setting up OSD in Betaflight. I think something like "ESC RPM". I like to have the RPM and throttle displayed so I can use that to tune since I don't have blackbox.
Must have missed it, but what motors and aio are you running? and how do you power your o3? With a boost converter? I thought it couldn't handle 2S low battery
AIO is "BetaFPV F4 1S 12A 2022". O3 is powered direct to battery. Motors are 1103 10000kv. They're a little too much for these packs actually. I had to put in a 75% throttle limit. Should probably use like 6000kv instead. Otherwise you'll get brown outs with full throttle punches. I do still have to be careful what I do once the battery is near dead. I tend towards smoother flying anyways. If you're really into flippy-floppies, or sky high power loops, you'll have to dial it back about 2 minutes in. I accidentally ordered weBleed 450mah packs this last time, so I have a bit less sag now, and my run times are over 4 minutes.
@@rcrdps8144 Awesome, thanks a lot! I am looking into micro LR and was curious how you manage to power the O3 at such low voltages. Cool stuff! If you ave any more insights at what voltage you see brown outs, I would be most thankful!
@@ethkid8925 Been a while since I logged it, so retrieving this answer from a previous comment on my O3 Whoop video: "I think it's 5v. I know Vista dropped out on me at like 4.8v. I think the lowest I've seen this one was 5.2v or something like that, but it was probably lower,....just didn't finish recording when it dropped out."
Absolutely. If you look back through my videos, I think I was probably the first to put a naked vista on a 75mm whoop. Was an Eachine Trashcan,...basically a Mobula 7 clone.
Thanks. The canopy is in the description. I printed it in a tough resin. It's fairly intricate, but you might have success with FDM. I think the one I modified it from was FDM.
While I did make mine on a resin printer, if you follow the link in the description, and then follow the link to the original, several folks did theirs on an FDM printer. I'm just not that good with doing intricate stuff on my FDM printer.
I don't tend to fly very aggressively, but I have had no failures of O3's once I mounted them. I have messed up the cable on one while de-casing it, and I have cracked a lens from a concrete smack. My 3d printed mount usually breaks in a crash and I just re-print it. Guess it's kinda like race cars. It breaks instead of the important stuff.
I did have to put a throttle limit at around 70%. Have to be carefull what you do near the end of the pack or it might brown-out. Should have probably went with 6000kv motors .
@@rcrdps8144 Wow amazing that you got it all the way down to 55g with an O3. Do you remember which AIO board you used? I can’t think of many other places where a few grams could be saved. I’m guessing around 5g per motor, ~10g for the frame, ~8g AIO, ~5g hardware (stack, motors, and prop screws), ~3g canopy, ~18g for the O3, ~3g props, and a few more grams for wires, solder and connectors… that adds to around 70g. Still can’t get my head around it, but I’m planning on trying a similar build soon
@@gus8378 A big part of it is ZERO metal hardware. That includes the prop screws. Actually,,.. the motors are mounted with metal screws. Guess you could lose more weight there. :D I'm guessing you're probably over-estimating the naked O3 weight. It's only a few grams over a naked Vista. The naked camera is super light. The board I use is: BetaFPV F4 12A
@@gus8378 I wouldn't personally think that, but on the other hand, I don't usually consider my builds like this to be super "clean". Stuff is really stuffed in there, so you won't be pushing the upper limits on turning down filtering. Note that my AIO sits below the frame, and the O3 is above the frame. The spacers are all solid. No rubber except the AIO mounts.
That thing is a whisper compared to most other quads. If it has no props in view it would be extra amazing.
You could put a higher camera angle canopy on it and achieve that, but I personally prefer props or ducts in view. You will see from my history that I always post the "cockpit" view with full osd.
@@rcrdps8144 that's what's up. I can see the appeal. Props in view seems to help with orientation when flying.
Great job! Very surprised by the 3 minute plus flight time on 300mah batteries
Thanks! I cut this video short to not bore the audience. Just looked on my SD card, and I have one flight that's a hair over 4 minutes with fairly aggressive( for me) flying, including quite a few powerloop attempts. These WeBleed "folded" cells with BT2 connectors really do perform. The 1103's are probably actually too much motor, and I have the throttle cut to 75% to not cause brown-outs. But it gets kinda hard to find lower KV motors in smaller than 1103. These are 1103 10kv. Coulda probably used 6-8k. She cruised at like 17% throttle before the throttle cut was put in place.
Nice build. I've built something similar a year or so ago. It is my most flown digital build, since I can fly it in my yard. I basically took a happymodel crux3 and added a naked vista, so it has 12025 6400kv motors. 69g including a 5g vifly beeper, since I lost the first one which hurt the wallet. I mostly use 2s 350mah on mine and get similar flight times. I'm going to try what you did with your throttle, as I have a lot of wasted resolution flying in the yard. Happy Labor Day! Edit: Just realized it is an 03. Even more awesome. I'd like to upgrade mine at some point.
Awesome. 1103 10000kv are normaly fine, if you use some gemfan 3016 or 3018 props on 2S. The emax are too agressive pitch. Very quiet though, because they make thrust at low RPM with the high pitch.
If you want same light motors with lower kv, try 1103 8000kv or 1202.5 6000kv.
Nice to see people going naked O3.
If you want quiet props, try HQ 65mmx6.
Thanks for the suggestions. One of my primary objectives for a light build with large props is noise. So the smaller props are pretty much out. Might try the lower kv motors on the next build. For now, a 75% throttle limit is mostly working out. I did have one more brown-out when I almost hit a tree and went full throttle. For most of my flying, I'm still only hitting 50% throttle with the 75% cut, so I could probably move the overall cut down a bit more. Or maybe I can go to those lower kv if I damage these,....
@@rcrdps8144 I sepcialized in low noise builds. Just Trust me on the low noise props and give the hq 65mmx6 a try. Costs you peanuts. You'll agree with me afterwards they are most silent. Good luck with the builds
@@chrisbee5481 Assuming you meant 63? Not seeing any 65's. Will definitely try them.
Nice one dude. I’m looking in to building a dji o3 toothpick. What frame did you use. ?
I have a crux 3” frame I think I’m gona use for mine. Good work bro. Just subbed you deserve more mate. Just made a video from yours. Let’s hope it’s gets more views for you. 👏🏻
Thanks! The frame is an FPVCycle Babytooth. Haven't really touched my drones much lately. I tend to cycle through my hobbies. I did go to fly the other day, and my mode switch was broken off. Waiting on parts,.... Still keeping an eye on the newest DJI goggles, but probably won't go for them until there's an air unit that can do the higher bandwidth. Then you'll maybe see another build video from me. ;)
@@rcrdps8144 ah nice one cheers. Yeah I’m the same dude. I went to fly one of my toothpicks yesterday wouldn’t bind. Then it just didn’t work after 🤷♂️🤦🏼♂️. Had a fly today tho . You gota feed the the withdrawal symptoms 😂 not flown in ages. So it felt good. Yeah I’ve only just gone to digital flying. So they bring a new one out lol.
Pretty cool canopy. I like the larva X. I have an AOS T3 toothpick at 116 grams with 850 mAh 3S and flywoo locator. Flight time is 15 minutes in hover and 8 minutes in bando. Keeping it light allows 5g punch outs. I'm upgrading to the DJI O3 boards, but the 1.6mm is a beeeich. I found that I can cut the threads of the 2mm bolts down to 1.8mm and then down to 1.6mm very cleanly using HSSE dies. I'll do a video. I'm waiting for custom titanium M2 by 35mm screws that I will cut down and some custom 1.6mm nylon.
Yeah, if you check out my whoop video with O3, you see me drill out the O3 board to 2mm. You end up breaking open at least one of the holes, but it is fine. But I'm also 3d printing my 2mm bolts, so I could do 1.6,.. but really, they need all the strength they can get. Any large crash, and I have to reprint everything. I've made gradual changes to the mount to beef it up after each crash. Haven't posted the current changes to thingiverse,...
@@rcrdps8144 I'm spending about $1,000 on custom dual thread M2 and M1.6 titanium bolts, M1.6 aluminum locknuts with nylon inserts and M1.6 nylon hex standoffs. I would prefer hardened aluminum bolts that 30mm long, but the only company that I found to make long aluminum bolts messes up the heat treating twice.
@@rcrdps8144 I'll be selling the hardware I don't need on ebay. But, how do you 3D print such small tolerances?
@@microdronetech8453 I have a resin printer. Right now I'm printing with Syria Tech Blu/Black, which is a "tough" resin. I do have to relax the tolerances a little because of light bleed through on the bottom half of the thread causing it to blob slightly. When I run out of this resin, I hope to switch to Syria Tech Tenacious, which is opaque, so hopefully won't have the light bleed issue and create tighter tolerances while still being a strong "nylon-like" resin. But what I have works for me for now,....except I've have to rebuild if I hit a branch,....
Isn’t 35mm a bit too high? Maybe your spacers are too tall?
This toothpick configuration seems very conducive to the o3's heat shedding requirements, with all the props right up against the vtx's sides, now I just wonder how much it mitigates the loss of the outer shell.
I've always( since v1 air units) felt like the shell was just physical protection, and had to be like a heatsink to get the heat out of that shell. But with zero air movement sitting on the bench or sitting on the ground, it does seem to heat up faster. Once in the air, there's very little difference. With v1 and wtfos, you could watch the actual temp reading, and it was really close between my de-cased quad and a stock one.
I haven't seen the numbers on the toothpick, but yes, it probably runs even cooler.
Depends on whether the air unit decides to boost power or not, for proximity flying it really doesn't need to adjust power much unless there is suddenly a need for signal penetration, in which a cooler o3 will hesitate less.
Amazing built and flight 👍🙏👍🙏
Hi, another question: Do you have a guide or tutorial on how to show the (I assume) Motor rpm in the bottom left OSD? I couldn't find it on google
It's just one of the checkboxes when you're setting up OSD in Betaflight. I think something like "ESC RPM". I like to have the RPM and throttle displayed so I can use that to tune since I don't have blackbox.
Easy, thanks a lot for both answers! Happy flying @@rcrdps8144
Must have missed it, but what motors and aio are you running? and how do you power your o3? With a boost converter? I thought it couldn't handle 2S low battery
AIO is "BetaFPV F4 1S 12A 2022". O3 is powered direct to battery. Motors are 1103 10000kv. They're a little too much for these packs actually. I had to put in a 75% throttle limit. Should probably use like 6000kv instead. Otherwise you'll get brown outs with full throttle punches. I do still have to be careful what I do once the battery is near dead. I tend towards smoother flying anyways. If you're really into flippy-floppies, or sky high power loops, you'll have to dial it back about 2 minutes in.
I accidentally ordered weBleed 450mah packs this last time, so I have a bit less sag now, and my run times are over 4 minutes.
@@rcrdps8144 Awesome, thanks a lot! I am looking into micro LR and was curious how you manage to power the O3 at such low voltages. Cool stuff! If you ave any more insights at what voltage you see brown outs, I would be most thankful!
@@ethkid8925 Been a while since I logged it, so retrieving this answer from a previous comment on my O3 Whoop video:
"I think it's 5v. I know Vista dropped out on me at like 4.8v. I think the lowest I've seen this one was 5.2v or something like that, but it was probably lower,....just didn't finish recording when it dropped out."
That so cool bro 🛩️🚀🤙
I need one! I have everything but the frame! I have an old mobula7 v2 that took 2 of the 1s batteries...you think its fine to recycle that powerlead?
Absolutely. If you look back through my videos, I think I was probably the first to put a naked vista on a 75mm whoop. Was an Eachine Trashcan,...basically a Mobula 7 clone.
Wow that’s amazing. I want to build my own o3 tooth pick with the TP3 frame. Do you have the canopy available to print? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks. The canopy is in the description. I printed it in a tough resin. It's fairly intricate, but you might have success with FDM. I think the one I modified it from was FDM.
@@rcrdps8144Do you get any vibration problems from using resin rather than TPU?
@@gus8378 Not that I can tell. TPU is usually printed thicker, so probably evens out.
How would someone go about getting a couple canopy’s made? Would you have time?
While I did make mine on a resin printer, if you follow the link in the description, and then follow the link to the original, several folks did theirs on an FDM printer. I'm just not that good with doing intricate stuff on my FDM printer.
How is the durability with the naked O3 on this frame?
I don't tend to fly very aggressively, but I have had no failures of O3's once I mounted them. I have messed up the cable on one while de-casing it, and I have cracked a lens from a concrete smack. My 3d printed mount usually breaks in a crash and I just re-print it. Guess it's kinda like race cars. It breaks instead of the important stuff.
Are you open to selling this frame. ?
It's an FPVCycle Babytooth frame. fpvcycle.com/products/fpvcycle-babytooth-frame-choose-your-thickness
What frame is this?
Babbytooth 2mm
How much sag do you get with 2S?
I did have to put a throttle limit at around 70%. Have to be carefull what you do near the end of the pack or it might brown-out. Should have probably went with 6000kv motors .
How big are the props? And what’s the AUW?
3 inch Avans. 1103 10000kv. Don't think I've weighed it AUW. Just add 2 tinywhoop batteries to 55 grams.
@@rcrdps8144 Wow amazing that you got it all the way down to 55g with an O3. Do you remember which AIO board you used? I can’t think of many other places where a few grams could be saved. I’m guessing around 5g per motor, ~10g for the frame, ~8g AIO, ~5g hardware (stack, motors, and prop screws), ~3g canopy, ~18g for the O3, ~3g props, and a few more grams for wires, solder and connectors… that adds to around 70g. Still can’t get my head around it, but I’m planning on trying a similar build soon
@@gus8378 A big part of it is ZERO metal hardware. That includes the prop screws. Actually,,.. the motors are mounted with metal screws. Guess you could lose more weight there. :D I'm guessing you're probably over-estimating the naked O3 weight. It's only a few grams over a naked Vista. The naked camera is super light.
The board I use is: BetaFPV F4 12A
@@rcrdps8144 I thought you’d get vibration issues from mounting the AIO on screws that weren’t metal
@@gus8378 I wouldn't personally think that, but on the other hand, I don't usually consider my builds like this to be super "clean". Stuff is really stuffed in there, so you won't be pushing the upper limits on turning down filtering. Note that my AIO sits below the frame, and the O3 is above the frame. The spacers are all solid. No rubber except the AIO mounts.