I like that you left in the bit where the olive fell out at 6:00. Made me laugh but also will make me extra careful when I do that so it is actually instructional too & shows that anyone can make small "mistakes" sometimes. Very clear video. Thanks.
It was my first time ever installing Magura brakes and I followed this video and it went without a hitch! Thanks for keeping the vid entertaining and simple!
This vid gave me confidence to cut the hose lines... Not that I don't know how to bleed the breaks but I didn't want to go through the whole bleeding process. Thanks man...
Hey Im new to hydraulic brakes, if i cut them just like he did in the video can i still bleed them? And what exacly is he doing that make the bleeding process not necessary?
@@JohnjOcampo you cut them the way he did in the video you won’t have to bleed them because he’s not spilling any of the oil inside the lines. Yes you may need to bleed them at some point but if you have Magura mt5 or mt7 just hold the hose up so it doesn’t spill and you won’t need to bleed them either
Thanks. Great and informative and clear, not to mention funny ---because you'll remember. Needed a refresh to shorten my Magura hoses as they're a little to long, as I now discovered night riding and cable seem to be in beams way. You do make it easy to do.
Thanks mate, postponed this job for a year instead having a coil of brake hose hanging off the front of my bike. Was a piece of cake and bloody happy i didnt have to bleed it because bleeding the maguras is bleeding painful!
In the Magura box, you will find a little yellow spacer. This has a cutout where you can put the hose and clamp with a visegrip, to allow you to push in the new barb. Very handy. Great video!
Honestly, it can be pretty high if you are careful. Keep the cut hose line point up, try not to shake your bike or hoses, and back off any pad adjustments prior to cutting. Still we'd recommend having the proper kit handy in case a bleed or top-off is necessary. Keep Pedaling!
@@harrowlax28, if these are new brakes you shouldn't have to push your pistons back in. If your pads are worn and you need to trim the cable because your moving your brakes to a new bike, you will want to gently reseat them back into the caliper. What we mean by backing of any pad adjustments is that many brakes will have some sort of contact adjustment at the lever. It's a good idea to back that out to be sure that the greatest amount of brake fluid remains in the system. Hope that helps!
i just got the mt5 e-stop read brake, but i can not fit them on my bike, i even got the adapter agura 180 to 203. stil dont know how to put it on. could you help me? there was a 180 disk on it and shimano adapter. but now i dont understand wy it does not fit good.
For internal routing, would you just cut excess on the caliper side hose to get thru the frame, then trim one more time to ensure there’s still full fluid in it? Tricky business… the lever end seems pretty straightforward.
Generally, it is still easier to trim at the lever end and feed the cable up through the frame. If you have left over hose to cut off, this can allow you to do this without bleeding the line. If your hose is close to the right length, it is very likely that you will need to bleed the hose after running it through the frame. Cheers!
@@jensonusabicycles Right yea, thanks! I did mean cutting close to the lever. But I also discovered Magura has those plastic plugs to insert into the hose before routing internally - ace!!
HAHAHAHA James is awesome! We need more of him. I just ordered the MT Trail Sl's yesterday from Kyle K and after listening to him tell me how to do it and then watching James... Kyle now I understand you lol
This bike mechanic is gold. I appreciate the humour on an otherwise mundane task. Why the 8 minutes flew by! I feel confident enough now to attempt this job myself. Why thank you.
Nuttier than squirrel turds if you think you didn't introduce air in the system. Notice how he doesn't attempt to squeeze the lever after this ordeal only to realize that indeed a bleed is needed
Hey, Chris, thanks for the comment. I exclusively run Magura brakes on all bikes possible and have yet to introduce air into the system using this method. As you re-insert the cut hose into the system you force out a little fluid which prevents any air introduced into the system. The key here is to make sure the lever is adjusted up and you cut at least 4 inches away from the lever. This ensures any air getting into that lever. Follow these steps and you to can successfully bleed a Magura brake!!
Great video explanation and funny too...now I know what the dry towel was for ! Can I ask on Magura MT5's how much hose goes into the lever end. I am replacing from SRAM Code R's and measuring the hose from that but I won't know how much is in the lever until after it's cut. Thanks.
I didn’t measure it but if I had to guess it’s 10-20mm of hose going into the lever. One thing to consider though is that the Maguras hoses exit more perpendicular to the bars, so the hose might route differently than your code Rs (I.e. may need more hose to make the bend).
I though he said 'I've just installed Magura Brakes' and maybe had some info to add, but there's nothing about setting up (internal hoses for) REAR brakes without bleeding. Fortunately, it doesn't require 8 more mins of off topic babble to tell you: 'that little silicone plug that comes w/ MT 5 and 7 brakes is for plugging the line and threading it through the frame'. Don't lose it. You can't buy them separately. That means bike must be upright - but you'll be trimming several inches off on the top end anyway, so if an inch of hose is mangled by a screw's threads, who cares? I just finished installed my fourth (complete) set of MT's (7's and 5's). The last two had internal routing. Gist of it's: tape the new (sealed) hose to the old (sealed) hose, grease the junction a bit and pull it through. A thin, stiff wire overlapping the junction by several inches helps. Wrestle the first junction through, it's a piece of cake to pull the rest. I snip and plug the hose, thread three 3" shrink-fit tubes on the assembly and heat gun shrink the junctures. Dry-lubed, it pulls thorough easy. Takes 10 minutes. Another thing. This is mineral oil, not DOT5 brake fluid. Not harmful to your paint. Wipe it off and spritz some simple green it comes clean. Hope this helps
I’ll admit, I was sceptical. Followed the instructions down to the smallest detail. AND…. Yep, there’s so much air in the system - the pads only lightly grip the rotor. Time for some brakeless downhill.
Hey Joe, sorry to hear this method didn't work out for you. There are several points where air can get introduced into the system, so it is always good to have a bleed kit in case you need it. This method has worked frequently for many of us and many other riders but there is still a chance air can be introduced. Luckily, these brakes are fairly easy to bleed.
Realize this is pretty late BUT, an internal routing tool will have a plug that you can fit into the hose to then route through your frame. Something like these below. www.jensonusa.com/Park-Tool-IR-12-Cable-Routing-Kit www.jensonusa.com/Jagwire-Pro-Internal-Cable-Routing-Tool-1 The jagwire one doesn't show the fittings and such but it does come with more options to get the job done that you lined out.
Hey, tilting up, the master cylinder doesn’t introduce air into the system. The key is to not let the hose whip out of your hand to not let air into that side. Keep the end up and no air will be introduced.
@@jamesdieckmeyer467 The hose DID whip out of my hand. I dripped a few drops of mineral oil into the hose, used a safety pin to eliminate are bubbles (too a few tries to get all the air out). But once I did, connected it and no bleed needed!
@@ArisaemaDracontium Yeah that can work, as long as you don't let that air bubble travel down the hose you should be good to go! If you let fluid out of the hose (for whatever reason) and try to connect the hose back to the master cylinder you can trap air in the line. You can let the 4 or so inches connected to the master cylinder whip but try not to let the remaining hose that connects to the caliper whip. Thanks for the tip Frank!
I searched amazon for a bob setting tool but didn't find anything! JKJK lol all love. Your awesome!!!
I like that you left in the bit where the olive fell out at 6:00. Made me laugh but also will make me extra careful when I do that so it is actually instructional too & shows that anyone can make small "mistakes" sometimes. Very clear video. Thanks.
It was my first time ever installing Magura brakes and I followed this video and it went without a hitch! Thanks for keeping the vid entertaining and simple!
Awesome! Glad it helped.
This vid gave me confidence to cut the hose lines... Not that I don't know how to bleed the breaks but I didn't want to go through the whole bleeding process.
Thanks man...
Hey Im new to hydraulic brakes, if i cut them just like he did in the video can i still bleed them? And what exacly is he doing that make the bleeding process not necessary?
@@JohnjOcampo you cut them the way he did in the video you won’t have to bleed them because he’s not spilling any of the oil inside the lines. Yes you may need to bleed them at some point but if you have Magura mt5 or mt7 just hold the hose up so it doesn’t spill and you won’t need to bleed them either
@@Tonyplat98 thank you for the info 👍🏻
I could watch this guy all day lol great video
love you guys i bought my magura from you guys 2 days ago
Worked like a charm with my mt5s! Saved me so much headache.
Thanks. Great and informative and clear, not to mention funny ---because you'll remember. Needed a refresh to shorten my Magura hoses as they're a little to long, as I now discovered night riding and cable seem to be in beams way. You do make it easy to do.
Thanks mate, postponed this job for a year instead having a coil of brake hose hanging off the front of my bike. Was a piece of cake and bloody happy i didnt have to bleed it because bleeding the maguras is bleeding painful!
Love the video and your personality!! Quick question though, how do you know that no air went into your line?
Followed these directions yesterday and it came out perfect. Very simple and effective.
I was a bit skeptical, bit it really works fine, thank you pal for take your time and explain so nice and smooth the process!!
works like a charm hahha
I really enjoyed this video. May I ask, where did you get the bob setting tool?
dont need it can use anything hard and simply push it in while holding the hose no problems which is why he didnt make a big deal of it
Classic! Never gets old!
In the Magura box, you will find a little yellow spacer. This has a cutout where you can put the hose and clamp with a visegrip, to allow you to push in the new barb. Very handy. Great video!
you can push it in with thumb and a spoon easily, hold the hose by hand no problems
Really, so i don't need the barb insertion tool? NICE...
Thank you for that info! Just bought some mt5s and I’m like…. I NEED ANOTHER TOOL?! Glad to know magura supplied that piece
this is the most simple and better explained videos on how to install new magura brakes!
I found that you can just use a chain tool to push the thing into the hose
What kind of acting school "accent" is this guy trying to use? Quarter-Boston, quarter-Paterson NJ, half flat Indiana?
Poor Bob. Being forced into that hose...
I like the Boston Humor, and the info, thanks!
Thanks James! You're a cool dude.
You are my new favourite narrator!
This is much better (and more entertaining) than Magura's own videos. Thank you.
Great video
Can you tell me what the odds are on not having to bleed the brakes to shorten cable ?
Thanks
Honestly, it can be pretty high if you are careful. Keep the cut hose line point up, try not to shake your bike or hoses, and back off any pad adjustments prior to cutting. Still we'd recommend having the proper kit handy in case a bleed or top-off is necessary. Keep Pedaling!
Jenson USA thanks
I went ahead and attempted it yesterday
Went fine
No bleed
Thanks. For the video
@@jensonusabicycles When you say "back off any pad adjustments prior", does this mean push/spread the pistons back out to as wide as possible? Thanks!
@@harrowlax28, if these are new brakes you shouldn't have to push your pistons back in. If your pads are worn and you need to trim the cable because your moving your brakes to a new bike, you will want to gently reseat them back into the caliper. What we mean by backing of any pad adjustments is that many brakes will have some sort of contact adjustment at the lever. It's a good idea to back that out to be sure that the greatest amount of brake fluid remains in the system. Hope that helps!
i just got the mt5 e-stop read brake, but i can not fit them on my bike, i even got the adapter agura 180 to 203. stil dont know how to put it on. could you help me? there was a 180 disk on it and shimano adapter. but now i dont understand wy it does not fit good.
For internal routing, would you just cut excess on the caliper side hose to get thru the frame, then trim one more time to ensure there’s still full fluid in it? Tricky business… the lever end seems pretty straightforward.
Generally, it is still easier to trim at the lever end and feed the cable up through the frame. If you have left over hose to cut off, this can allow you to do this without bleeding the line. If your hose is close to the right length, it is very likely that you will need to bleed the hose after running it through the frame. Cheers!
@@jensonusabicycles Right yea, thanks! I did mean cutting close to the lever. But I also discovered Magura has those plastic plugs to insert into the hose before routing internally - ace!!
What is that accent?!?
(Thumbs up on the video btw)
Louisiana bayou?
It seemed to change as he went along, something tells me he was just doing it for fun
Boston (aka Basstan)
@@popecosh307 Yea. It goes from NYC to Boston, to American impression of German to Chicago to ?.
That cajun accent is epic
HAHAHAHA James is awesome! We need more of him. I just ordered the MT Trail Sl's yesterday from Kyle K and after listening to him tell me how to do it and then watching James... Kyle now I understand you lol
@Girl in white anklesocks andtrainers i'm pretty sure you are the dick here
@Girl in white anklesocks andtrainers oh wait nevermind, i should have checked your username first. Bye!
Part number for the Shimano SLX shifter mount Please.
Helpful 👍
Adam Sandler and Ben Afleck need this guy for the “Waterboy: Southy” sequel. In all seriousness, great vid
This bike mechanic is gold. I appreciate the humour on an otherwise mundane task. Why the 8 minutes flew by! I feel confident enough now to attempt this job myself. Why thank you.
This dude is as funny as a kick in the nuts
can cut the hose with a knife or garden secatuers in a pinch
Nuttier than squirrel turds if you think you didn't introduce air in the system. Notice how he doesn't attempt to squeeze the lever after this ordeal only to realize that indeed a bleed is needed
Hey, Chris, thanks for the comment. I exclusively run Magura brakes on all bikes possible and have yet to introduce air into the system using this method. As you re-insert the cut hose into the system you force out a little fluid which prevents any air introduced into the system. The key here is to make sure the lever is adjusted up and you cut at least 4 inches away from the lever. This ensures any air getting into that lever.
Follow these steps and you to can successfully bleed a Magura brake!!
Im so confused as well. How could this NOT have added air into the system??? Am I missing something?
Great video explanation and funny too...now I know what the dry towel was for ! Can I ask on Magura MT5's how much hose goes into the lever end.
I am replacing from SRAM Code R's and measuring the hose from that but I won't know how much is in the lever until after it's cut.
Thanks.
I didn’t measure it but if I had to guess it’s 10-20mm of hose going into the lever. One thing to consider though is that the Maguras hoses exit more perpendicular to the bars, so the hose might route differently than your code Rs (I.e. may need more hose to make the bend).
Your olive dissappeared , I see the bob, the cone and the nut, but no more olive? did you insert it into the lever first, or?
Was there oil in the system at first ???
There would need to be, otherwise they would definitely need bled!
I though he said 'I've just installed Magura Brakes' and maybe had some info to add, but there's nothing about setting up (internal hoses for) REAR brakes without bleeding.
Fortunately, it doesn't require 8 more mins of off topic babble to tell you: 'that little silicone plug that comes w/ MT 5 and 7 brakes is for plugging the line and threading it through the frame'. Don't lose it. You can't buy them separately. That means bike must be upright - but you'll be trimming several inches off on the top end anyway, so if an inch of hose is mangled by a screw's threads, who cares?
I just finished installed my fourth (complete) set of MT's (7's and 5's). The last two had internal routing.
Gist of it's: tape the new (sealed) hose to the old (sealed) hose, grease the junction a bit and pull it through.
A thin, stiff wire overlapping the junction by several inches helps.
Wrestle the first junction through, it's a piece of cake to pull the rest.
I snip and plug the hose, thread three 3" shrink-fit tubes on the assembly and heat gun shrink the junctures. Dry-lubed, it pulls thorough easy. Takes 10 minutes.
Another thing. This is mineral oil, not DOT5 brake fluid. Not harmful to your paint.
Wipe it off and spritz some simple green it comes clean.
Hope this helps
Thank u so much for this
Where do I get a Wienerschnitzel sticker like that one there.
Love the Cajun accent
Not really Cajun. Did he say it was Cajun? I’m from Louisiana
I’ll admit, I was sceptical. Followed the instructions down to the smallest detail. AND…. Yep, there’s so much air in the system - the pads only lightly grip the rotor. Time for some brakeless downhill.
Hey Joe, sorry to hear this method didn't work out for you. There are several points where air can get introduced into the system, so it is always good to have a bleed kit in case you need it. This method has worked frequently for many of us and many other riders but there is still a chance air can be introduced. Luckily, these brakes are fairly easy to bleed.
What about if you have to thread the hose through the frame can you still shorten a new Magura brake hose this way?
No way
there's a cap you're supposed to use, check the official shortening guide of magura on RUclips
Realize this is pretty late BUT, an internal routing tool will have a plug that you can fit into the hose to then route through your frame. Something like these below.
www.jensonusa.com/Park-Tool-IR-12-Cable-Routing-Kit
www.jensonusa.com/Jagwire-Pro-Internal-Cable-Routing-Tool-1
The jagwire one doesn't show the fittings and such but it does come with more options to get the job done that you lined out.
I had to do this and YES amazingly it worked at least good enough that with a new setup (new pads) it works.
and how is that you dont need to bleed it?
How did you ensure no air got in the line? If that line was an artery in a human, I'd expect an embolism.
Hey, tilting up, the master cylinder doesn’t introduce air into the system. The key is to not let the hose whip out of your hand to not let air into that side. Keep the end up and no air will be introduced.
@@jamesdieckmeyer467 Got it! Cool man.
@@jamesdieckmeyer467 The hose DID whip out of my hand. I dripped a few drops of mineral oil into the hose, used a safety pin to eliminate are bubbles (too a few tries to get all the air out). But once I did, connected it and no bleed needed!
@@ArisaemaDracontium Yeah that can work, as long as you don't let that air bubble travel down the hose you should be good to go! If you let fluid out of the hose (for whatever reason) and try to connect the hose back to the master cylinder you can trap air in the line. You can let the 4 or so inches connected to the master cylinder whip but try not to let the remaining hose that connects to the caliper whip.
Thanks for the tip Frank!
need to watch a video to fit my brakes....couldn't get past 2 minutes here....sorry....i tried...;(
This guy is NOT a Bostonian
I can't tell if this accent is on purpose, it's distracting.
Sounds like Christopher Walken. New York accent maybe.
I hear Mr Kotter was his high school teacher...
Как он закрутил гидролинию не поставив оливку?)))
Wtf is this guy doing a bit?
This guy is so annoying.Stoo trying to be funny. Just tell us jeeeez
Why talk like this..? Really annoying... Not funny, and hard to listen.. Just talk straight not tryna be cool or whatever this is.
No way this is an act. That's him. Not sure where he picked up that accent but it's funny. Sounds a bit like the comedian Father Guido Sarducci.
What is that accent
Sounds to me like an Australian who has been living in the USA for a while.
Did bikes not have internal routing 4 years ago?
Some didn't and some still aren't internally routed to this day.