How to Bleed Hydraulic Brakes - Magura®
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- Опубликовано: 25 июл 2024
- This video will go over how to bleed Magura® hydraulic disc brakes using the Park Tool BKM-1 Brake Bleed Kit.
Questions or comments? Leave them below!
See all our disc brake videos in our Disc Brakes Repair Help playlist ▶︎ • Repair Help: Disc Brakes
Video contents:
00:00 Preliminary Info
01:40 Bicycle Prep
02:27 Bleed Kit Prep
03:54 Bleed
06:58 Reset Bicycle
07:27 Clean Kit
➤ Tools & materials used:
BKM-1 Hydraulic Brake Kit - Mineral - www.parktool.com/product/hydr...
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Guys, this process is perfect up to putting back the bleed screw in the caliper, as you lost oil when removing the syringe and tightening the bolt. Magura suggests to take the caliper above the lever to avoid this. I had that issue and this fixed it. Just a heads up for anyone else trying to bleed these brakes following this video. Cheers!
Hey! I wanted to ask you, how did you manage to take the caliper above the lever? Thanks
@@katsaras1 flipped the bike in the stand just enough to have the caliper higher than the lever, ensure you have already closed the bleeding port on the lever before doing that.
@@katsaras1 you could take it off from the brake mount and raised it higher than the lever to avoid mineral oil from escaping.
@@dhicon45 err not if it's a rear calliper and the brake hose goes through the frame!
So many people sugesting to raise the caliper above the master cylinder.. if you want to be sure no air gets inside the caliper when you disconnect the syringe, there is an easier solution. You just leave bleeding funnel with some oil in it, connected to the lever, disconnect the syringe from the caliper, close the caliper, and then remove the funnel and close the master cylinder.
Guy on the flute on the background be bussin
I volunteer at a community bicycle workshop
It’s funny I bled a Magura the first time a couple of weeks ago using Maguras recommended system and thought afterwards this is a stupid system next time I should get a shimano bleed pot and if it’s a different thread make an adaptor.
Trust Park Tool to make one. I also love the syringe holder.
You took a while to get these bleed kits out but as per usual it’s better than the OEM
Excellent video thanks!
The best manual at the time
A little tip when doing this: before you push pistons back, install the funnel on the lever first to avoid putting too much pressure on the lever seals. I learned it the hard way and had to change the seal after destroying it like that.
I often forget to put in the stoppers for the pads when removing wheels and have to push them back I have never had an issue. Odd that you did.
A little trick: during this process you can adjust the bite point by using narrower piston blocks. Of course, the bite point also changes with the wear of the brake pads, but I prefer to do twice the accelerated bleeding ( with one syringe - if the used oil change is not necessary and the system is not heavily aired) with the bite point adjustmet in the season and enjoy a much better braking feel. But not everyone likes short lever stroke like me. For me, this is invaluable because this setting makes my hands less tired while driving.
Thank you guys so much!!!
I love that you guys make an adapter to screw into the lever bleed port!!! So much better than the pressure fit Magura syringe. Nice work Park.
lever bleed port is so easy to strip and you will have to replace the whole brake lever. better a syringe!
@@spicymountainbike where did you order the adapter and the cup from? I can’t find them anywhere other than in park tool’s bleed kit. I just don’t need all the other stuff in their bleed kit lol
@@spicymountainbike got it! Thanks 🤘🏻
@@caleb.w Do you still have a link to the adapter ? Do you still have a link to the adapter ? Park Tool deleted the comment :D
@@darkbadger5239 I just signed into my Park Tool account on their website to check my past orders( and when I click on that order it says page cannot be found. Looks like they don’t sell it anymore.
Could you use muc-off nano tech bike cleaner to clean the calliper
Comment dire , c'est la Perfection
I would add a couple steps/tips: 1) after reinstalling the bleed port screw on the caliper, remove the bleed port plug on the lever, cycle the lever a couple times, and add a couple drops of Royal Blood before reinstalling the bleed port plug 2) a very important step - after removing the bleed block, clean the caliper inside and out with rubbing alcohol. Any residual brake fluid will quickly contaminate your pads/rotors leading to all kinds of badness.
@Park Tool: Now please work your international distributors to make this as well as the new sliding T-Handle Hex Wrenches available abroad. Here in Germany every single shop I called, told me they can not get those. And if I order them individually the cost of shipping and taxes is insane. Not to mention that Grofa wants double the US price for those (not in stock currently though).
Best Magura bleeding tutorial on RUclips !
Better than the Magura official tutorials, It's a bit worrying 🙃
You’ve obviously never properly bled brakes…
@@whycantweeatabortedbabies6259 i have the best results with this one without no need to repeat it Infinite times. Can you share us a better tutorial to see how you do and make everyone bleed there brakes better ? 😁
@@cristoof59 yes. The way magura suggests is the best way. If you do it this way there will be air in the line 100% of the time. So if you like spongy brakes I guess this is the best.
@@cristoof59 The magura tutorials worked great for me, although I adapted their technique to use this bleed kit. The only real difference is getting the caliper higher than the lever when you go to put the bleed screw back in, and then lowering it slowly until the oil is flush with the face. My brakes have been amazingly powerful after that. (MT-7)
hi, i have magura mt trail double piston brakes and i was using avid 180 hayes 203 as disc. I bought a shimano xtr rt mt 905 ice tech disc, but my brakes aren't holding the way they used to. Should I use organic or metallic? Which one do you think is not compatible?
The brake caliper should be removed from the bike when bleeding to get a better bleed. When disconnecting the syringe from the caliper, the caliper should be higher than the master cylinder to avoid oil leaking out when disconnecting the syringe. Even a tiny amount of oil lost will make the brakes spongy as magura master cylinders have a very small fluid reservoir compared to other manufacturers.
I'm not going to realign my calipers every time i bleed so i'm good
WELL SAID AND CORRECT!!!
@@thelongestnameinthecomment9677 then you’ll have a bad bleed with lots of space between pads and rotors but I’m sure you’ll tell your buddies you’ve got so much modulation brah.
@@mitchellmtb7202 it works fine...
I was considering to make the same exact comment until I saw yours.
Hola como puedo ordenar los adaptadores para el embudo gracias bendiciones saludos desde san Diego California
what would you use to clean the syringes and pipes?
I had bad experiences with isopropyl and hard/clear plastics is all
I have had problems with thinners or acetone never with Iso
Can you guys do the same thing for the magura hs33 rim brakes?
Check out ali clarkson's RUclips channel, he did a very detailed video for that
Thanks, will dare to try, however, I don't understand, what is it that happen at 7:19....???
That’s the only way I can bleed correct. Rotate the bike it’s the key i think, other things don’t work for me. Always more air than bevor. Thanks from Bavaria.
Music is on another level
can u do x spark brakes?
Was the background music by Andre 3000?
Any upcoming video for campy hydraulic groupsets?
Magura make the brake systems for Campagnolo.
Anyone have issues pressuring the system after loosing fluid?
what is this dynamometric tool?
my new mt5 e-stop brakes on my magura storm hc 203 rotor, already touch the rotor with the brake, if i dont brake yet, how to fix that ?
Any tips on using just one syringe? Feels like I can't get the air out, the lever feels really mushy and there is hardly any bite on the brakes.
Repeat the process a few times and make sure that you get all the air out of the system.
I have brand new MT7 calipers and have performed this exact process a few times. No air at all in my lines. Lever is firm to pull. The pistons however do not retract and stay “gripping” the rotor. Any suggestions?
What has happened since?
Use a thinner rotor
Magura Royal Blue, unobtainable ok! So if changing to Baby oil/ Shimano? Drain flush with Shimano or Baby oil. Then fill with Shinano/Baby oil! Comments appreciated here in Penang Malaysia Tq.
Can't you leave some fluid in the funnel without the plug, and put in the calipper bolt first so if any oil leaks from calipper the funnel will still have oil to keep the system full and lastly plug the brake lever hole ? Doesn't it make more sense ? That's how I bleed them to avoid loosing any fluid from the system
it doesnt make sense... when you close up bleed screw at the lever, the vacuum will hold oil inside. If you unscrewed the syring first, gravity will drain all the fluid from the funnel, and then suck in air.
@@tomasstraka5244 well I've never experiencing vacuum held fluid after I've plugged the lever first, it always leaked atleast a bit from the caliper thus loosing fluid from the system
Do it for tektro brakes also
Coming soon!
How to buy park tools?
On reconnaît bien Jean-Pierre Marielle, mais j'ai du mal à retrouver le film. Quelqu'un peut m'aider ?
Syringe holder. So brilliant. Sold separately please???
You can make your own out of stretchy rubber strap (& hole punch), a shaped block of wood, screws, washers. Not that hard.
Yes they are. You will need to call in for them as they are not in our online parts system yet. Here is a diagram with all the part numbers. www.parktool.com/assets/doc/product/BKM-1_instructions_EN.pdf
Umm a zip tie is cheaper?
Hey im a great fan of the channel just asking what might be wrong with my bike because everytime i go to the trails and after every post ride everytime i pedal is there's that rough feeling while pedalling but when i wash my bike it's back to normal again but even my bike is clean or even there's just a lilltle bit of dust or dirt after every trail ride that rough feeling keeps coming back but when i remove the chain and check the bb and cranks the bearings just feel good as new i also checked the hub its still moving freely and i just upgraded my whole drivetrain and hubs last 2 months ago isnt the short chain causing all this errors on my bike
How dirty is the bike getting during the ride?
@@parktool even though i dont go to the trailsjust some road rides with my mtb sfter every post ride there's always that problem
"Magura?" Huh. At least it's Calvin! This is a lovely kit, at $120 vs $30 for a Shimano setup it's for bike shops.
This system can be used with magura shimano and sram (i think more as well) you just need to clean everything to make sure there's no dot fluid if you're doing a mineral oil brake (or vice versa)
Can I mix other mineral oil in with the royal blood?
it is not recommended but is ok. Mineral oil is not regulated like DOT so the different formulas can vary quite a bit. Which leads to different boiling points.
@@parktool I got through the bleed but the syringe sucked up some floating particles from the brand new bottle of royal blood. Sad to say, those particles went into the brakes. Didn't notice till too late. Was probably from the protective film that sealed the bottle. Now I gotta flush it out when i get new fluid.. thanks for the info! Figured about the boiling point and that
Magura won't warranty if you use anything else. If they're leaking and it's not a crushwasher issue first thing I check if they're running shimano mineral oil. Around 18 different compounds in a 'mineral oil' so a misleading category.
Doesn't happen to everyone but do see it occasionally and magura tech said it was his first check too. Always willing to be wrong though definitely not being a smart ass haha
Something is wrong with my MT8 brakes. After bleeding them 20 times, including at my local bike shop, and replacing the lever/master cylinder, and the pads, and the brake line, I still have an endless supply of air in the brakes! When I do the vacuum trick shown here, the air just keep coming out. After all this effort and part replacement, I'm totally out of options - ANY Help or advice would be appreciated!
There has to be air entering at some point in the system. It may be good to send Magura a message about these. How do the brakes feel? Does the lever go t the bar?
Do magura hs33
Will add that to the Wave 2 list, but need to pull my bike down from the rafters and clean off the cobwebs.
Magura hs33
What is the thickness of the blocks, please.
The bleed blocks are double sided, at 10mm and 12mm.
Thank you very well.
6:30 When I see that oil drain away, you can start again. I don't understand that there isn't a nipple in there like a motorcycle caliper.
What oil can you use?
Magura is a mineral oil system. They prefer you use their own fluid. There are of course other brake fluid manufacturers that make compatible fluid. Never use a D.O.T fluid in a mineral oil brake.
@@parktool alright thanks for the comment👍
I have found u can never get rid of all the free stroke . I hate the lever coming in close to my Knuckles.. So I have found bleed them exactly as you did , Then go ahead and bleed like a motocross bike pumping holding cracking the Caliper screw at the bottom.. I even take it one step further . button everything up , put the wheel back on and pump the brake . than remove lever screw put the bleed bottle back on add min oil . remove wheel , give the brakes a little squeeze moving the calipers pads in just a little bit NOT closing them not all the way.. Remove The bleed cup , replace screw . lightly spread the pads back , not much you don’t want to blow any seals... replace the rear wheel and now you have taken up some of that free stroke. These r race Mechanic tricks not Recommended for a beginner tackling this job. I was a pro motocrosser and a Pro motocross mechanic for years . I also worked in many bicycle shops as a head mechanic. I’m always watching the great videos like these , because we can always learn more knowledge..
Yeah these breaks suck... shimano xt so much better.. I’ll use the mt8s for now.
First owe me a park tool tool
Those pads are hugging the rotor at the end of the video and seemingly not retracting...
Please bring out videos for all the manufacturers. All their systems have wrinkles. The worst part of Magura vs say Shimano is the fact you have to remove the bleed port screw at the bottom before screwing in the syringe.
Why can’t they copy their competitors best ideas
Stay tuned!
It's one screw? It take 30 seconds
Dear park tool team , love what you do , but I need to be a pointy smart ass
Never ever screw something in the lever thread then the lever screw , you could end up damaging the cheap plastic low quality lever and so ending up getting more air into the system
Lot of folks have allready done it and it didn't end up well
As we all should now , one thing is to bleed the caliper then the System and at the end the lever
Cheers
Wut about those hydraulic with hose? How to bleed that?
John Lenard Radovan stoopid
Whyy
Any hydraulic break need bleed right?
I don’t understand your question
6:18 The step is wrong here, you should move the rear caliper higher than the brake lever (by rotating the repair stand) before unscrewing the adaptor, then shake and vibrate the rear caliper sightly to get rid of any air bubbles that might get stuck somewhere, finally add a bit more "Royal Blood" to overflow the port before tightening the port screw.
We have never had an issue of air in the system with this technique.
Technically, yes. You could follow all the steps here, then at the end you install the screw on the master, lift the caliper above the master, flick the line a bit to loosen air, draw some vacuum with the syringe to ensure no bubbles are trapped by the caliper, press fluid back in, then uninstall the adapter and install the screw.
Well spotted, and It is also better to loosen and then lightly tighten the lower calliper clamp bolt to spin the lever.
What’s up with the music? I mean, what could that weird beat possibly add to the learning experience?
Brake bleeding is simple with Shimano, Magura not so much
It would be great if your bike stand would work...
Hi! If you are having an issue with your stand why don't you reach out to us via our warranty page: www.parktool.com/warranty
@@parktool Because my issue is the exact same as all my friend's issues. The rotation mechanics only works with either a hammer or greasing it. If you grease it then it doesn't hold properly. If you hammer it, then it often falls apart. Not to mention the strain that it puts on your elbow when trying to tighten it. It just bad design I guess.
@@Atokhold I am sure we have some great suggestions to improve you and your friends issues. Please reach out as we do care and have a wealth of knowledge about our products.
@@parktool Okay, will do, thanks.
Calvin: "Remove pads from the caliper ..."
*Me 2 mins later*: "f******ck these f*cking magnetic things @%%*##!!!*** 😡😡😵
This is a great video, but the only thing I don't get is after bleeding, when disconnecting the caliper bleed hose, any oil that drips out must be allowing an equal volume of air into the system. Magura suggests holding the caliper up nrear the lever reservoir so this won't happen. Am I nuts or am I correct in assuming this?
You're correct
Nice kit, but Magura’s video is better... magura brakes have lots of tricks and you have to be careful...
"It's important to always use the appropriate brake fluid..."
BS, baby oil works perfectly.
Actually true. But only if you don't mind your brakes smelling like diapers :D
I used KY and now my braking just glides
Trials riders used to use water, but it freezes in winter :)
@@alimantado373 the issue with water is if you brake hard in short time, it will start boiling and with all the bubbles in the system they you suddenly don't have any more braking power. For trials, for short, hard quick uses, I'm sure it works.
The instruction is wrong. DO NOT press the caliper pads or pistons in without opening the master cylinder plug otherwise you can damage the master cylinder. Also attach oil can to the opened master cilinder to collect oil excess during pressing the caliper pistons.
Park should sell a tool that is just a vertical standing bar with a positionally adjustable caliper mount on the bottom and a lever mount on the top so the brake line can be perfectly vertically straight while it is being bled so 100% of the air bleeds out the system on the first try. Typically air gets caught everywhere the brake line bends. It would be really easy to fabricate.
My budget is around 300$ can anybody suggest me budget entry level mountain bike? Im not gonna run onto mountain.just roads 😊☺
then buy a road bike .-.
For that budget, look on sites like Craigslist or offer up for a road bike. You'll be able to find something fairly decent for that price range. No regular bike shops are going to have adult bikes that inexpensive to start with.
Go to kevcentral he is a budget mtb channel. The best entry level bike for you would be the Schwinn AL Comp mountain bike, 21 speeds, 27.5-inch wheels, grey. You can buy it off the Walmart website. It's got a tapered headset so you can upgrade in the future. Full disc brake means you will be able to upgrade to hydrulic disc brakes in the future
Just try to buy a second hand bike. I did and I had the luck to buy a full slx/xt bike around 575 usd.
Just watch videos about how to distinguish usable bike to a total garbage one.
Good luck
*_..."Magura suggest using their proprietary fluid"_*
No shit sherlock, so magura have another product to sell and parktool can't have a "ParkTool MGR-01 mineral oil for magura"... :D
However, truth is: Any mineral oil for high temperature hydraulic applications will work like a charm.
Oh, for the record your o'ring aren't holding... 4:53
That's not gonna do good when you try to suck the oil in from lil funnel
Fo not buy Magura. They do not have warranty if boughtvsecond hand and levers are not repairable only replaceable and no parts sold (ask before you buy)
When you have Magura-Brakes, you better watch a Magura-Tutorial and buy a Magura Bleedkit not this overpriced US stuff.
These kits are for bike shops that bleed all kinds of different brake manufactures. It's very inexpensive considering how many different systems you can work on. European ignorance at it's finest. You type without letting the connection between your brain and finger complete the circuit. Also, no one is forcing anybody to buy this kit, you toothless wooly mammoth... "You better?" sounds like you have an entitlement disorder as well.
When you have Magura-Brakes, you better watch a Magura-Tutorial and buy a Magura Bleedkit, not this overpriced US stuff.
You also forgot a comma, Dumbass.
@@FarmerFpv lol
How to bleed Maura brakes.
Throw them in the trash. 🗑️
Throw away.. get shimano..
How can you possibly create a vacuum, if you use an open cup at the top?????!!!
Is that Ron Burgundy playing jazz flute?