It’s Christmas and I wanted to say what a great help all your videos have been to me learning how to fix bikes. Forget the nit pickers these tutorials are excellent. Keep up the good work!
Thought I needed a full brake bleed and went through this whole video to find out that I only needed a lever bleed, which was so cleverly plugged! This channel has me stoked to start wrenching on my bike myself!
I've done bleeding on numerous cars, motorcycles and bikes over the years. Generally on cars and motorcycles I pressurize the reservoir and bleed. But on bikes it seems most manufacturers recommended something similar to the Shimano syringe method. I've never understood the need to push through fluid form the bottom then push it back through from the top. I like the simplicity of the gravity feed method much more. Thanks for the video!
Because air bubbles want to stay at the top. On bycicle brakes there is no air space on the top of the reservoir. All air must find its way out through the top.
Yeah I can see that pushing it up from the bottom would get the bubbles from the top out. But I can't see what advantage it is to pushing it back through from the top.
@@shanefrank3281You don’t. The Shimano repair documents have never instructed one to connect a syringe to the master cylinder at the lever and push the oil in from the top It’s only ever mentioned to push the oil up from the calliper, but never from the lever. If I’m mistaken, please advise which Shimano document advises to connect a syringe to the lever and push the oil in that way. Always good to learn something new, if they’ve changed their instructions/guidelines.
@@aaronperelmuter8433 it is possible that I'm thinking of the Formula brakes which used two syringes with a tube that threads into the master and another into the caliper.
During a gravity feed, you should also flick the brake line with your finger to free up any air bubbles that are stuck in the line. The lever should be flicked too, not just pumped, but be sure not to introduce any air into the system.
Reminds me of the action of flicking a medical needle to remove air bubbles before an injection. But I don't know if that's necessary, or good, or just a movie stunt.
Good channel. By having actual work done by Syd (who acts as a beginner, but who is evidently no longer a beginner) the videos show how to deal with the difficulties commonly faced by a beginner.
Yes finally.. I am not the only one that do that like you guys do... a retired airplane mechanic told me to use the gravity for bleeding the brakes it save much more time instead using the sringe pushing the mineral oil up wich also pushing the dirt up. thank you for reasuring me that gravity bleeding is another way to do that... Guess what you got another subscriber now..
Also, before you bleed this is the best time to clean the caliper, push the pistons out slightly and rub mineral oil around the pistons to lubricate the piston seals.
Just watching this vid through autoplay and I was thinking the same thing....if the pistons are sticking out, might as well clean them. Use the same fluid you're using for hydro and rub them around with a Q-tip to get extra grit off and lubricate the seats.
@@vijayanchomatil8413seems like it would if you used a crap ton and maybe after using a tiny tiny bit on Q tip wipe off with a clean rag but that is a great question
Dropped my brake piston out of my caliper by accident and was forced to bleed the brake on my own since I wanted to go out for a ride and this method actually worked insanely well. Thanks. :D
Syd you should not be surprised about your "You Tube" success. Your knowledge and skill are valued very much. But your beauty keeps bring me back. Daniel
Instead of Brake Cleaner spray, consider Mass Airflow Sensor cleaner. It's more compatible with seals, plastic parts, paint, etc. Thanks for this very helpful gravity feed technique!
When I saw how long this video was :12:35, I said to myself “this is going to be one boring video,” I was wrong. Very enjoyable and informative video, great teacher and learner as well.
Great video however, id like to share a word of caution! Dont force the pistons back on a Shimano brake without removing the lever oil cap. There is a equalization bladder in lever that can rupture and this is not repairable to the best of my knowledge. Iv ruined 2 XT levers in this way before I realized what had happened.
@@SaffaGreg Whenever there was a bleed block or when pressure was applied to the lever, there was an instant release which shot fluid out of the master cylinder hole.
Same happened to me on a pair of old avids. Now it's Shimano slx though. Way easier. I'd recommend rupturing the bladder on any brakes using dot fluid so you can switch over to brakes that use mineral oil if you need to reason this to your spouse
Syd also a tip: at 10:00 tighten the bleed fitting with a wrench FIRST, that way no air leaks back in to the calliper, also pull the lever, to put greater pressure on the system side, so no air can get in. second tip; at 10:00 DONT remove the block until you clamp the hose, if nothing is stopping the piston from moving it can overtravel and blow out, spilling all the fluid (if you accidentally pull the brake lever, thinking the system is 'safe') when doing this, put a flag on the handle, so you remember the brakes are being serviced (and to be sure to top up the fluid and verify operation before going for a ride.
After waiting for my Shimano bleed kit, today I finaly did it :) I was searching for exactly your Video because I bought a used Bike and the old owner messed up a little bit to much. I was hopeing to see a different collor coming out and here we are - it was something like "babyoil". Thank you so much for your help, keep on going - best regards from germany :)
Park tools has gotten not only lazy but out of touch of what it's like to work on the front lines of bicycle repair. While I love some of their tools and videos, I've found their tools simply aren't as well made as the tools I bought twenty years ago. I find their tools round out much faster now, don't look as good and don't feel like real professional tools like you would find in pro shops in Europe. It's frustrating that in the States they are the industry leader.
Thank you. You guys are actually awesome. I feel like I've literally watched dozens of maintenance videos that have left me with more questions than answers. Your videos are so complete 👍
very nice video! I worked in a bike shop for a while, and this is important stuff to know for the average rider ;) One thing I'd recommend is instead of using a marker, use a piece of masking tape from the shifter to the brake lever, and just cut it, it'll mark the location without leaving a mark ;) I got my bike once with a line like that, and it made me furious because it was a permanent marker.. I also got to see the other side as a customer was furious at me for doing the same thing.
Great vid.. often an over complicated process, Iv been working of motorcycle brake systems for years and find system rebuilds a total joy.. therapeutic!!! Would just like to point out that the bleed port is located at the master cylinder (brake lever) end... the 8mm on the calliper is commonly known as the Nipple... true that !!
Tried this today for the first time. Worked spot-on! Thank you Syd. I did a lever bleed first with the bleed blocks in to get the air out of the line, then the full gravity bleed. 2013 XTR brakes.
I guess it makes sense doing the lever 1st so don't push air back into line? Which would make everything worse? Yes im new to hydraulic brakes lol Just received my 1st set today for a build im doing from frame up. So im definitely gonna have to do a lever bleed because I have to shorten hoses.
Very smart to have a quick recap at end, keeps you from having to go back and hunt for a spot in the video if you need a quick timeline. Good work y'all!
Another tip. Once you have the bucket connected to the lever, slacken the clamp off, jiggle the lever out of vertical, but not too far, and once you tighten the lever, jiggle that too before gravity bleeding. This usually expels any air in the lever, which you dont want when bleeding. You will see it rise in the bucket of fluid as it escapes.
HOT TIP: Many people have mentioned in the comments that it's better to connect the funnel to the lever BEFORE pushing the pistons so there is a place for the oil to go (into the funnel).
Or better, attach the tubing and open the caliper bleed nipple before pushing the pistons back. Why push the filthy fluid back into the hoses you want full of nice clean fluid.
Your video really makes this seem approachable. Also, not many manuals mention "flushing" the system with fluid. That's when the syringe is crucial. There will still be gunk in the lever and caliper otherwise.
Good info and timely for me, I am doing my sram brakes. Regarding recessing the pistons in the calliper, it would be easier to recess them if you release the bleeder valve before you push the pistons in. This allows the fluid in the calliper to displace with the piston. Fluid does not compress and the pistons won’t move if there is nowhere to go. BTW, I have never worked with mineral oil in brakes but it sounds better than using DOT 5 break fluid - which my sram brakes use. ;)
@@_kanasamochodowy_6130 you need to study more. Mercury is a liquid and is widely known to be easily compressible. Mineral oil does compress and this ability to be compressed leads to problems in hydraulic systems including losses in efficiency, cavitation, stress corrosion and fatigue.
Brake bleeding has been a mental block in my bike maintenance, I can do many repairs but have been afraid of this one. This video def gives me more confidence to give it a go, thanks Syd and Macky
Its actually one of the easier things to do so long as you have the proper equipment like a stand and dont get the wrong type of fluid. The only real other "dangers" are things like cutting lines too short if you are replacing them, getting fluid on your brake pads or discs, and/or leaving air in the lines. Its hard to damage something in general.
Pro Tip #1: Unscrew the free stroke adjustment screw on the lever while bleeding. VERY important on Shimano servo-wave levers. Pro Tip #2: Use a wrench (NOT a crescent) on the caliper bleed nipple.
Pro tip No.3 use a 10mm "ring spanner" with the ring/round end to force the pistons back into place. Remember even pressure is best, you may have to go side to side, corner to corner. Some pistons will be stubborn, be careful not to crack them or chip the piston. Some are more brittle than others. Good luck.
@@roddas26 You make a good point as to not use anything with a sharp edge like a screwdriver or allen key. Plastic tire levers (like Pedros) are my preferred tool to retract calipers.
even better, a single hex ring spanner so there is the least chance of rounding off the bleed nipple. There is a reason a lot of us mechanics call a Crescent wrench a Nut F..uhhhh... fudger ? hmmm I'm sure it wasn't fudger.... Useless fact... the adjustable wrench is called... well its an adjustable wrench... "Crescent" is a brand that has become synonymous with the device, a bit like Weed-Eater Jet-Ski or even Onesies... (yes all actually brand names, not the actual name of the product).
Thanks, your video has been very helpful for me as starting bike DYIer with a modern bike. I second keeping your fingers away from the spinning rotor, in a moment's notice I helped myself to a nasty gash while trying to adjust the caliper manually. I will now use your tips from that video as well!
Tip: the black handle thing on the syringe tube? Well once you have the tube connected to the bleed port, you slide the little black handle thing down the tube towards the caliper, then a final push onto the end of the tube (where it is connecting with the bleed port) and Ta Dar, it's keeping the tube and bleed port firmly connected 👍 Bonus tip... it can then also be used as leverage to nip-up the bleed port nut for disengaging the tube. Then you can torque the bleed port nut properly once your hands aren't tied up 👍 Super bonus tip... if you're working on a customer's bike, I'd strongly suggest using an open spanner and not an adjustable (as used) - no worry of rounding the nut or/and slipping and scratching parts.
Some helpful hints in there, guys. Should speed my process along the next time I do this. So far, I've used the syringe, but this should eliminate that frustration. I'd also mention that this is a good time to check the brake lines for kinks and damage, so you can replace them if needed. Also, tapping on the brake line with a small wrench or something helps free up air pockets.
Great video. It made the job so much easier. Brakes work great now! My bleed valve setup was different, but the official Shimano kit hose fit perfectly, and it was easy to figure out. Thanks for the detailed instructions!
For human safety, wearing some gloves when using brake cleaner and oils will save you a trip to the cancer ward later in life. Great video! Thanks! I've bleed hundreds of Motocross bikes and they have the same issues, you address the process very well! I wondered if there was any PFM for these small units, same process, different size. (PFM = Pure Freaking Magic). I subscribed as I'm upgrading an old 96 Diamondback...trying to upgrade to Disk and your presentation is very good.
The instructions are very clear and helpful; that said, after gravity bleeding my new Shimano brakes 4 times to no effect, I chose the syringe method. It worked right out of the bat and wasn't as messy and complicated as the gravity approach. When using the syringe method, I was advised to push oil from the caliper up, which makes sense since the bubbles went up on their own and the lever filled up nicely.
Finally someone who bleeds their brakes like I do. I’ve done this from the start, and similarly for automotive when I don’t have a helper. My tips would be first, get a tool called the Clam, made by Birzman. Helps with setting caliper up on rotor. Also, when reattaching the caliper and centering, you want to initially lock the caliper down with the rotor in the theoretical middle of the opening where the pads will be. These calipers are not full floating, so it is possible as the pistons extend back out, it won’t happen exactly equal (one may drag a bit more than the other), and the rotor flexes and caliper moves if loose, so that may not be enough to stop the one extending too much before the other. So basically with the rotor locked down this may have a better chance of happening equally, but ultimately you want to look down into the caliper and assure that both pistons have extended out equally and that your caliper sits over the rotor centered. If not you’ll have to force one back into the caliper and re-center. Then use the Clam to get a final centering with the proper gap between pad and rotor.
06:20 same here-BEFORE opening ANY SCREWS on your bike-PLEASE always clean the area first as fine dust will tracvel into your thread and ruin it just then-Thankx foe listening
In honor of hitting 10k subscribers today, we're posting a second video this week!! Thanks so much to all of you for the love you have shown this channel! You are the best and we are stoked to keep the videos coming ☺️
thanx Sid. i replaced my front hyd. brake pads. bled oil thru a set screw at the outer side of the caliper w/new oil feeding thru the handle lever hole (using a brake bleed kit with fittings.) i didnt sand the rotor or the pads. well i tested the bike and there was very little pressure on the rotor when braking. it was like i had only the rear brake actually working. well after sanding the rotor and pads and bleeding the handle lever only it is working excellent again. awesome tip!
I’ve bled my SLX’s this afternoon, worked like a charm! 😃 Before the gravity bleed I’ve did a lever bleed because I didn’t want to push the trapped air further down in the system. After I didn’t see any bubbles any more appearing in the cup I’ve did the gravity bleed.
Love the videos. One thing I like to do is to remove the bolt from the fill port on the brake lever. This removes the pressure from the system and allows you to push the pistons in much easier. I've also been told pressing the pistons in while the system is closed can damage some internal parts. Keep it up!
Great video! But... please do not use an adjustable wrench. It is the worst tool ever. Instead use a proper open end wrench (6/7/8 mm depending brak caliper.) Keep up the good work! I actually learned that a gravity bleed is easy.
Yeah, especially when you're standing in a fully stocked bike workshop. I like an adjustable just fine if I'm working on ordinary stuff that nobody ever looks at, but not on my mountain bike. Especially when it's a full sized adjustable turning a 7mm.
On a bleed I'll just allow the oil to coat the caliper, that way I lubed and clean the pistons at the same time. I'll even remove the bleed port and look down hole while the oil is coming out you can see all the bubbles. cool video, Thanks guys!
This is by far the best and my most favorite bike repair channel. Everything I have repaired after watching this goes really well. Great content!! This video was awesome! Thanks. :-)
It seems pretty straight forward, but it does make me nervous to try! I think my front brakes need to be cleaned because they do squawk a bit. I really like the attention to detail in your vids. You guys explain well and then do a recap at the end! Very professional!! You got a new subscriber!...LOL.
I recently learned this technique and it was how I finally chased out an air bubble that I had been battling for days. I will never use a syringe again.
Feel free to use a syringe. Shimano directions include pushing fluid up through until clean and letting clean fluid flow back in afterwards. Finally they suggest tilting the brake lever up and down while pumping to get bubbles out of the lever. It doesn't take much longer than in the video to perform all the steps
@@TrailFeatures Yeah but what I'm saying is that a gravity bleed is part of the standard shimano process. First push up with the syringe, remove the syringe put the bag on, then let the fluid into the bag until no bubbles are found, then do the lever-pump-burp. All standard. By skipping any one segment you're only covering so many bases.
That was a huge adjustable wrench used for a very small bleed screw. Matching wrench size to screw size reduces the chance of breaking or stripping screws and bolts.
ISO alcohol (99%) is a better choice to brake cleaner... won't strip the paint off your frame or caliper. I'd also suggest leaving the hose on until the bleed screw is tightened to make sure you don't let any air into the system. Definitely use a proper wrench and not an adjustable wrench too.
For pushing back the pistons a set of worn old brake pads in combination with a flat head screw driver (or something comparable) is also possible, it will push the pistons back on both sides without the risk of damaging the pistons or the caliper
@@moonskyphotography2268 what also works on car brakes (if they have single piston calipers) are small screw clamps, in combination with a small piece of flat steel, or the old pad. But of course pushing it back by pushing it apart is also fine
my backyard method for the pistons: if you also need to change the pads .. push the pistons back with a flathead screwdriver when the old pads are still in place :) that way the pistons wont get damaged... only the old pads take the damage in this method :) nicely done tutorial!
Nice video! You guys should try out using 99% Isopropyl Alcohol in replacement of the brake cleaner. It doesn't have the same de-greasing properties but is a safer and healthier option. The brake cleaner has some really harmful chemicals in it.
Thank you for the video I also use my Burst toothbrush which uses high oscillation movement, which I touch and chase up any bubbles from the bottom up, I find then all the time using it, flicking is good but this is really much better really gets them out.
Great no syringe needed. Can this be done on a new empty system? Followed your guide on a cup bleed with new brakes with fluid already in and was done in a few minutes. Syd and Mack are the team!
Theoretically you could do it if the line is empty, but generally we've found it's better in that situation to do a traditional syringe bleed as it can sometimes be hard to get the fluid to start flowing if the line is empty.
Dude! You're making me want to go work on my bike! You're also making it all look easy! Hey, do me a favor, when y'all get to installing new forks, will you do a good detailed job of explaining all about the headset? Like, how to tell what size yours is, and how to translate from old measures to the new standards? Also the difference between integrated cups and non-integrated?
Do not push the pistons back until you open up the bleed screw on the lever. Pushing the pistons forcefully back while the system is closed is a great way to crack them.
If this happened to you, then your system was probably overfilled by being bled without resetting the pistons first. The lever has a diaphragm that automatically collapses as your pads wear down, to compensate for the extra fluid needed from the pistons getting extended. This diaphragm will pop back up when you reset the pistons while the system is closed. However, if it's already up because there's too much oil, then something's gotta give when you push the pistons back.
@@mattgies The overfill scenario is the so called "lever bleed". When you "bleed" a Shimano brake by opening up the lever bleed screw, putting that bucket on filled with oil, then start to pump the lever. Hence this is popular, my advice is just open up the system before forcefully pushing back those pistons. Especially if it is not your brake, you do not know what the owner did to them previously.
ery cool! I am a newbie at all of this and own a Zugo E-Bike that I love. However, I am a rather lare man and need to both up-size and burn in my brakes, which Syd has shown the how-to's. Thnks Syd!
you guys skipped an important part. Before the block is inserted. Clean the caliper out of all dirt, then with a cotton swab, dip it in mineral oil, and run it around the piston to clean again, and lubricate before pushing the piston back in. By not doing this you will compromise the brake before its time, by introducing dirt into the system. This was taught to me by Shimano. Yall should update this video. Holla if yall need any advice. :)
, Do you use a cleaner first ? I would recomend to first use soap and water and a tooth brush or maybe simple green then spray with water let dry then lube the piston then compress then wipe away any excess oil then wash agin . but since my seals dont go bad in years and still compress easly I think I will consider pros vs cons of lubbing the seals .I really think the pistons shuld be upgraded , I think the stock ceramic pistons are abrasive to the seals , I upgraded my pistons and have just been cleaning the caliper with brake cleaner ive done many brake pad changes without lubing the pistons with no issue , I will just toss in some new seals every few years, its only like a ten or fifteen minute job when you know what youre doing .I would consider upgrading the plastic brake lever piston to titanium , if youre model is upgradable .
Great video with simple, easy to follow instructions. Gave me the confidence to do my own brakes on my mountain bike with great success! Thank you for taking the time to make this.
Great practical tips for all brake bleeding. There are SO many things to mess up, it helps to reduce them. Tips like when it will drip and spill. Fluid will find the pads and disc with super human skill. Thwart it, really thwart it. I would wear gloves , vent when spraying cleaner ,it's nasty stuff, and wear protective eye wear. Cover floor under drippy stuff.
I like the videos, keep them coming. Tip for alternative to marking brake lever location is to use your phone's level app and note the angle of the lever before putting in the stand. Then you can re-set up to the degree pretty easily.
Thank youu!! I followed 4 other videos with syringes with overly complex procedures and explanations and none of them worked. I was already getting frustrated and thought I ll just have to give it to mechanic. The air simply wasn't getting out and I thought it has to be a more complex problem after all. But NOPE, air got out as soon I opened the bleed port when doing it this way.
LOVE your vids! This is very much like bleeding brakes on cars, which made me wonder about whether there would be down sides to leaving the funnel in place until the very end, when everything at the back is seated and making lever pumps the the last stage? Thanks again for such a fun and helpful channel!
That would be fine. It's just that having the funnel on the when you're reconnecting things can cause spills and if those spills end up on your front brake or rotor you're sad. That's why we usually remove the funnel to put everything back together then put it back on for a final lever bleed.
Great explanation and the comments are helpful too. One suggestion might be to expand the Why part, so that newbies understand what's going on. For example, quickly explain that pulling a lever pushes fluid through a hose to actuate the disc brakes. The fluid gets dirty because ... Here we're going to replace the old fluid, by draining it at the brakes and adding more through the lever.
Hello, have you eventually found out the reason for the dirty fluid? I am curious as well. Another issue that bothers me, is why there is a need for bleeding in a non leaky brake system. Thanks.
The brake fluid brakes down over time, so even in a perfectly sealed system, you'd need to bleed it. That being said, it also isn't a fully closed system as contaminants can sneak in past the pistons (similar to how contaminants can get past the seals in forks/shocks).
if you were my carpentry apprentice i'd point out that you're wearing a tool vest so use it! you waste all sorts of time walking back & forth to put down & pick tools. also suggest duct taping a strand of 12 gauge household wire aka romex to a resealable container to use as a hook to hang the container off your frame to catch waste oil, instead of the extremely awkward messy bag technique. when the container gets full 20 lifetimes from now dispose of it responsibly with other household hazardous waste.
Instead of dumping the old fluid into a bag as it drains, I set everything up like I'm going to do a syringe bleed but with the cup full & the syringe empty. Once I open the bleeder port I gently pull the plunger out and carefully watch the fluid in the cup going down. Once it gets down low I close the port, remove the syringe hose and dump the old fluid. Easier for me anyway & less messy. Thanks for all you do, anytime I have a question I search for an answer by Syd first.
No No No No No! Crescent wrench bad! 7 mm box end wrench to avoid possibly rounding off the bleeder valve head. 4 stars of 5 for teh crescent wrench :-)
I use the Pedro's Disc Brake wrench. It has a 7 mm flare wrench at one end for the bleed valve, an 8 mm flare at the other end for hose end fittings, and a slot for rotor truing.
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Pushing in the pad will be easier if you loosen the upper screw to allow fluid to leave. Or do the second phase first.
Blep bleep blob
It’s Christmas and I wanted to say what a great help all your videos have been to me learning how to fix bikes. Forget the nit pickers these tutorials are excellent. Keep up the good work!
I recommend watching the park tool video on cleaning and lubing the pistons before you push them in
Thought I needed a full brake bleed and went through this whole video to find out that I only needed a lever bleed, which was so cleverly plugged! This channel has me stoked to start wrenching on my bike myself!
Interesting...what is a lever bleed?
@@saulfernandez8876 Screw in the cup (with mineral oil inside it) into your lever, then press your lever till theres no more air bubbles coming out
@@ozqu but how does air even get into the brake system in the first place?
@@Bxin718 Faulty seals, loose screws and when your brake pads wear down, you need more fluid to fill in the void it creates
@@Bxin718Removing your real wheel.
I've done bleeding on numerous cars, motorcycles and bikes over the years. Generally on cars and motorcycles I pressurize the reservoir and bleed. But on bikes it seems most manufacturers recommended something similar to the Shimano syringe method. I've never understood the need to push through fluid form the bottom then push it back through from the top. I like the simplicity of the gravity feed method much more. Thanks for the video!
Because air bubbles want to stay at the top. On bycicle brakes there is no air space on the top of the reservoir. All air must find its way out through the top.
Yeah I can see that pushing it up from the bottom would get the bubbles from the top out. But I can't see what advantage it is to pushing it back through from the top.
@@shanefrank3281You don’t. The Shimano repair documents have never instructed one to connect a syringe to the master cylinder at the lever and push the oil in from the top It’s only ever mentioned to push the oil up from the calliper, but never from the lever. If I’m mistaken, please advise which Shimano document advises to connect a syringe to the lever and push the oil in that way. Always good to learn something new, if they’ve changed their instructions/guidelines.
@@aaronperelmuter8433 it is possible that I'm thinking of the Formula brakes which used two syringes with a tube that threads into the master and another into the caliper.
During a gravity feed, you should also flick the brake line with your finger to free up any air bubbles that are stuck in the line. The lever should be flicked too, not just pumped, but be sure not to introduce any air into the system.
Reminds me of the action of flicking a medical needle to remove air bubbles before an injection. But I don't know if that's necessary, or good, or just a movie stunt.
Good channel. By having actual work done by Syd (who acts as a beginner, but who is evidently no longer a beginner) the videos show how to deal with the difficulties commonly faced by a beginner.
I love this because someone is explaining what's going wrong rather than some genius saying just do xyz and you're done!
Yes finally.. I am not the only one that do that like you guys do... a retired airplane mechanic told me to use the gravity for bleeding the brakes it save much more time instead using the sringe pushing the mineral oil up wich also pushing the dirt up. thank you for reasuring me that gravity bleeding is another way to do that... Guess what you got another subscriber now..
Most excellent tutorial. Puts others to shame. Very well explaining and simplifying. I did my first ever bleed with your guide in 30 min. THX
These are the best how-to videos -- thorough yet fun and simple.
Also, before you bleed this is the best time to clean the caliper, push the pistons out slightly and rub mineral oil around the pistons to lubricate the piston seals.
Just watching this vid through autoplay and I was thinking the same thing....if the pistons are sticking out, might as well clean them.
Use the same fluid you're using for hydro and rub them around with a Q-tip to get extra grit off and lubricate the seats.
wouldn't that attract dirt?
@@vijayanchomatil8413great question!
@@vijayanchomatil8413seems like it would if you used a crap ton and maybe after using a tiny tiny bit on Q tip wipe off with a clean rag but that is a great question
It is really useful to have a non-expert doing the work. Pros tend to skip bits that have a knack to them without even noticing.
Dropped my brake piston out of my caliper by accident and was forced to bleed the brake on my own since I wanted to go out for a ride and this method actually worked insanely well. Thanks. :D
Syd you should not be surprised about your "You Tube" success. Your knowledge and skill are valued very much. But your beauty keeps bring me back.
Daniel
Instead of Brake Cleaner spray, consider Mass Airflow Sensor cleaner. It's more compatible with seals, plastic parts, paint, etc. Thanks for this very helpful gravity feed technique!
Just use isopropyl alcohol. It is always around in bathroom cabinets.
And if you must use brake cleaner, please wear nitrile gloves! Skin is porous. Great video
When I saw how long this video was :12:35, I said to myself “this is going to be one boring video,” I was wrong. Very enjoyable and informative video, great teacher and learner as well.
Great video however, id like to share a word of caution! Dont force the pistons back on a Shimano brake without removing the lever oil cap. There is a equalization bladder in lever that can rupture and this is not repairable to the best of my knowledge. Iv ruined 2 XT levers in this way before I realized what had happened.
This happened to me! Never again!!!
How did you know you’d ruined the lever?
Did it stop working altogether?
@@SaffaGreg Whenever there was a bleed block or when pressure was applied to the lever, there was an instant release which shot fluid out of the master cylinder hole.
Thanks for this!
Same happened to me on a pair of old avids. Now it's Shimano slx though. Way easier. I'd recommend rupturing the bladder on any brakes using dot fluid so you can switch over to brakes that use mineral oil if you need to reason this to your spouse
Syd also a tip: at 10:00 tighten the bleed fitting with a wrench FIRST, that way no air leaks back in to the calliper, also pull the lever, to put greater pressure on the system side, so no air can get in. second tip; at 10:00 DONT remove the block until you clamp the hose, if nothing is stopping the piston from moving it can overtravel and blow out, spilling all the fluid (if you accidentally pull the brake lever, thinking the system is 'safe') when doing this, put a flag on the handle, so you remember the brakes are being serviced (and to be sure to top up the fluid and verify operation before going for a ride.
You guys are awesome. I’ve never done a bleed before and you made it easy to follow along. I specially love the recap at the end.
Did it work?
The presenter, sydfixesbikes, is making me a DIY bike mechanic of some sort. Thanks, now I can bleed my own brakes.
Pro Tip: Leave the cup on as you remount the tire, carefully so that your last pump will have access to fluid and even maybe a few bubbles.
great tip btw
After waiting for my Shimano bleed kit, today I finaly did it :) I was searching for exactly your Video because I bought a used Bike and the old owner messed up a little bit to much. I was hopeing to see a different collor coming out and here we are - it was something like "babyoil". Thank you so much for your help, keep on going - best regards from germany :)
This is BY FAR the best bike repair/maintenance channel on RUclips. I feel like I’m learning right alongside Syd. Better than Park Tooks as well...
It’s cool because it’s real. Most Park or maintenance instructional videos make it look so easy every time and it never is haha
Park tools has gotten not only lazy but out of touch of what it's like to work on the front lines of bicycle repair. While I love some of their tools and videos, I've found their tools simply aren't as well made as the tools I bought twenty years ago. I find their tools round out much faster now, don't look as good and don't feel like real professional tools like you would find in pro shops in Europe. It's frustrating that in the States they are the industry leader.
@@biggaywizard interesting. So what are some professional tool brands found in Europe?
Thank you. You guys are actually awesome. I feel like I've literally watched dozens of maintenance videos that have left me with more questions than answers. Your videos are so complete 👍
very nice video!
I worked in a bike shop for a while, and this is important stuff to know for the average rider ;)
One thing I'd recommend is instead of using a marker, use a piece of masking tape from the shifter to the brake lever, and just cut it, it'll mark the location without leaving a mark ;)
I got my bike once with a line like that, and it made me furious because it was a permanent marker..
I also got to see the other side as a customer was furious at me for doing the same thing.
So true!! DD
This is my go-to-video if someone asks how to bleed brakes. Thank you so much!
Great vid.. often an over complicated process, Iv been working of motorcycle brake systems for years and find system rebuilds a total joy.. therapeutic!!!
Would just like to point out that the bleed port is located at the master cylinder (brake lever) end... the 8mm on the calliper is commonly known as the Nipple... true that !!
Its called a nipple for the same reason a grease nipple is called a nipple. Its because.......... it looks like, well,...... a nipple.
Having the 1-minute summary after the detailed instructions is very helpful. I followed your method and it worked great. Thank you 😚
This is quality in every sense of the word. Great work on this video! Look forward to watching more.
Tried this today for the first time. Worked spot-on! Thank you Syd. I did a lever bleed first with the bleed blocks in to get the air out of the line, then the full gravity bleed. 2013 XTR brakes.
I guess it makes sense doing the lever 1st so don't push air back into line? Which would make everything worse? Yes im new to hydraulic brakes lol Just received my 1st set today for a build im doing from frame up. So im definitely gonna have to do a lever bleed because I have to shorten hoses.
Very smart to have a quick recap at end, keeps you from having to go back and hunt for a spot in the video if you need a quick timeline. Good work y'all!
Another tip. Once you have the bucket connected to the lever, slacken the clamp off, jiggle the lever out of vertical, but not too far, and once you tighten the lever, jiggle that too before gravity bleeding. This usually expels any air in the lever, which you dont want when bleeding. You will see it rise in the bucket of fluid as it escapes.
HOT TIP: Many people have mentioned in the comments that it's better to connect the funnel to the lever BEFORE pushing the pistons so there is a place for the oil to go (into the funnel).
Or better, attach the tubing and open the caliper bleed nipple before pushing the pistons back. Why push the filthy fluid back into the hoses you want full of nice clean fluid.
Also importantly do not push the pistons until you have cleaned them, otherwise you are potentially pushing dirt into the caliper.
Your video really makes this seem approachable.
Also, not many manuals mention "flushing" the system with fluid. That's when the syringe is crucial. There will still be gunk in the lever and caliper otherwise.
If you are so kind, please subtitles in Spanish, thank you!
If you are so kind, please subtitles in Spanish, thank you!
Good info and timely for me, I am doing my sram brakes. Regarding recessing the pistons in the calliper, it would be easier to recess them if you release the bleeder valve before you push the pistons in. This allows the fluid in the calliper to displace with the piston. Fluid does not compress and the pistons won’t move if there is nowhere to go. BTW, I have never worked with mineral oil in brakes but it sounds better than using DOT 5 break fluid - which my sram brakes use. ;)
mineral oil does compress.
@@No5holeyo Liquids are not compressible (this from physics)
@@_kanasamochodowy_6130 you need to study more. Mercury is a liquid and is widely known to be easily compressible. Mineral oil does compress and this ability to be compressed leads to problems in hydraulic systems including losses in efficiency, cavitation, stress corrosion and fatigue.
Best video on the subject I've seen so far. Thanks for posting!
Brake bleeding has been a mental block in my bike maintenance, I can do many repairs but have been afraid of this one. This video def gives me more confidence to give it a go, thanks Syd and Macky
Got a new brake set this summer and never trimmed the cables until today. Give it a go its not all that hard.
Its actually one of the easier things to do so long as you have the proper equipment like a stand and dont get the wrong type of fluid. The only real other "dangers" are things like cutting lines too short if you are replacing them, getting fluid on your brake pads or discs, and/or leaving air in the lines. Its hard to damage something in general.
Thanks!
Pro Tip #1: Unscrew the free stroke adjustment screw on the lever while bleeding. VERY important on Shimano servo-wave levers. Pro Tip #2: Use a wrench (NOT a crescent) on the caliper bleed nipple.
Yasss! We don't use C-wrenches. Ever.
(unless you're a lampy working a show)
Pro tip No.3 use a 10mm "ring spanner" with the ring/round end to force the pistons back into place. Remember even pressure is best, you may have to go side to side, corner to corner. Some pistons will be stubborn, be careful not to crack them or chip the piston. Some are more brittle than others. Good luck.
@@roddas26 You make a good point as to not use anything with a sharp edge like a screwdriver or allen key. Plastic tire levers (like Pedros) are my preferred tool to retract calipers.
@@hjohn2, Pedros are proper for sure.
even better, a single hex ring spanner so there is the least chance of rounding off the bleed nipple.
There is a reason a lot of us mechanics call a Crescent wrench a Nut F..uhhhh... fudger ? hmmm I'm sure it wasn't fudger....
Useless fact... the adjustable wrench is called... well its an adjustable wrench... "Crescent" is a brand that has become synonymous with the device, a bit like Weed-Eater Jet-Ski or even Onesies... (yes all actually brand names, not the actual name of the product).
Thanks, your video has been very helpful for me as starting bike DYIer with a modern bike. I second keeping your fingers away from the spinning rotor, in a moment's notice I helped myself to a nasty gash while trying to adjust the caliper manually. I will now use your tips from that video as well!
As a newbie to bike maintenance, i love these videos!! You guys are awesome thank you Syd and Macky!!
Thank you for this instruction. This is the best most simple one that I've seen!! I've just watched 3 or 4 of them this one is by far the best!
Tip: the black handle thing on the syringe tube? Well once you have the tube connected to the bleed port, you slide the little black handle thing down the tube towards the caliper, then a final push onto the end of the tube (where it is connecting with the bleed port) and Ta Dar, it's keeping the tube and bleed port firmly connected 👍
Bonus tip... it can then also be used as leverage to nip-up the bleed port nut for disengaging the tube. Then you can torque the bleed port nut properly once your hands aren't tied up 👍
Super bonus tip... if you're working on a customer's bike, I'd strongly suggest using an open spanner and not an adjustable (as used) - no worry of rounding the nut or/and slipping and scratching parts.
One of the best videos I’ve seen on this topic. Awesome job.
Some helpful hints in there, guys. Should speed my process along the next time I do this. So far, I've used the syringe, but this should eliminate that frustration. I'd also mention that this is a good time to check the brake lines for kinks and damage, so you can replace them if needed. Also, tapping on the brake line with a small wrench or something helps free up air pockets.
The syringe method looks a lot easy than this if you ask me
Great video. It made the job so much easier. Brakes work great now! My bleed valve setup was different, but the official Shimano kit hose fit perfectly, and it was easy to figure out. Thanks for the detailed instructions!
For human safety, wearing some gloves when using brake cleaner and oils will save you a trip to the cancer ward later in life. Great video! Thanks! I've bleed hundreds of Motocross bikes and they have the same issues, you address the process very well! I wondered if there was any PFM for these small units, same process, different size. (PFM = Pure Freaking Magic). I subscribed as I'm upgrading an old 96 Diamondback...trying to upgrade to Disk and your presentation is very good.
The instructions are very clear and helpful; that said, after gravity bleeding my new Shimano brakes 4 times to no effect, I chose the syringe method. It worked right out of the bat and wasn't as messy and complicated as the gravity approach. When using the syringe method, I was advised to push oil from the caliper up, which makes sense since the bubbles went up on their own and the lever filled up nicely.
Finally someone who bleeds their brakes like I do. I’ve done this from the start, and similarly for automotive when I don’t have a helper. My tips would be first, get a tool called the Clam, made by Birzman. Helps with setting caliper up on rotor. Also, when reattaching the caliper and centering, you want to initially lock the caliper down with the rotor in the theoretical middle of the opening where the pads will be. These calipers are not full floating, so it is possible as the pistons extend back out, it won’t happen exactly equal (one may drag a bit more than the other), and the rotor flexes and caliper moves if loose, so that may not be enough to stop the one extending too much before the other. So basically with the rotor locked down this may have a better chance of happening equally, but ultimately you want to look down into the caliper and assure that both pistons have extended out equally and that your caliper sits over the rotor centered. If not you’ll have to force one back into the caliper and re-center. Then use the Clam to get a final centering with the proper gap between pad and rotor.
06:20 same here-BEFORE opening ANY SCREWS on your bike-PLEASE always clean the area first as fine dust will tracvel into your thread and ruin it just then-Thankx foe listening
In honor of hitting 10k subscribers today, we're posting a second video this week!! Thanks so much to all of you for the love you have shown this channel! You are the best and we are stoked to keep the videos coming ☺️
Thanks for the video. The gravity bleed seemed to help my brakes. I had a couple small flecks in the oil after completion.
Great. This is basically how I bled the brakes on my cars for 40 years or so.
thanx Sid. i replaced my front hyd. brake pads. bled oil thru a set screw at the outer side of the caliper w/new oil feeding thru the handle lever hole (using a brake bleed kit with fittings.) i didnt sand the rotor or the pads. well i tested the bike and there was very little pressure on the rotor when braking. it was like i had only the rear brake actually working. well after sanding the rotor and pads and bleeding the handle lever only it is working excellent again. awesome tip!
I’ve bled my SLX’s this afternoon, worked like a charm! 😃
Before the gravity bleed I’ve did a lever bleed because I didn’t want to push the trapped air further down in the system. After I didn’t see any bubbles any more appearing in the cup I’ve did the gravity bleed.
Love the videos. One thing I like to do is to remove the bolt from the fill port on the brake lever. This removes the pressure from the system and allows you to push the pistons in much easier. I've also been told pressing the pistons in while the system is closed can damage some internal parts. Keep it up!
Great video!
But... please do not use an adjustable wrench. It is the worst tool ever. Instead use a proper open end wrench (6/7/8 mm depending brak caliper.)
Keep up the good work! I actually learned that a gravity bleed is easy.
No kidding!
If it can't be fixed with an adjustable spanner and a hammer, it can't be fixed.
@@joekitchell8509
Sure it can! Wrap it in Gorilla tape!
a high quality adjustable wrench is a fantastic tool
Yeah, especially when you're standing in a fully stocked bike workshop. I like an adjustable just fine if I'm working on ordinary stuff that nobody ever looks at, but not on my mountain bike. Especially when it's a full sized adjustable turning a 7mm.
On a bleed I'll just allow the oil to coat the caliper, that way I lubed and clean the pistons at the same time. I'll even remove the bleed port and look down hole while the oil is coming out you can see all the bubbles. cool video, Thanks guys!
This is by far the best and my most favorite bike repair channel. Everything I have repaired after watching this goes really well. Great content!! This video was awesome! Thanks. :-)
Been doing gravity bleeds on my motorcycles and cars recently. Works great. No special tools or two people needed.
It seems pretty straight forward, but it does make me nervous to try!
I think my front brakes need to be cleaned because they do squawk a bit.
I really like the attention to detail in your vids. You guys explain well and then do a recap
at the end! Very professional!! You got a new subscriber!...LOL.
I recently learned this technique and it was how I finally chased out an air bubble that I had been battling for days. I will never use a syringe again.
Feel free to use a syringe. Shimano directions include pushing fluid up through until clean and letting clean fluid flow back in afterwards. Finally they suggest tilting the brake lever up and down while pumping to get bubbles out of the lever. It doesn't take much longer than in the video to perform all the steps
@@temporary_terpenes Tried all that multiple times. Gravity bleed was what finally got it.
@@TrailFeatures Yeah but what I'm saying is that a gravity bleed is part of the standard shimano process. First push up with the syringe, remove the syringe put the bag on, then let the fluid into the bag until no bubbles are found, then do the lever-pump-burp. All standard. By skipping any one segment you're only covering so many bases.
That was a huge adjustable wrench used for a very small bleed screw. Matching wrench size to screw size reduces the chance of breaking or stripping screws and bolts.
ISO alcohol (99%) is a better choice to brake cleaner... won't strip the paint off your frame or caliper. I'd also suggest leaving the hose on until the bleed screw is tightened to make sure you don't let any air into the system. Definitely use a proper wrench and not an adjustable wrench too.
Yeah that adjustable wrench told me they don't wrench on stuff...LOL
@@Meekerextreme to be fair an adjustable wrench has the advantage of a tighter fit than a regular open end wrench but nothing beats the box end wrench
Isopropyl alcohol I guess.
Now when you say "bleed brakes" are you also meaning possibly replacing the old fluid?
Loving your content guys! Any chance to get a 101 maintenance? Like, the basics after a ride.
For pushing back the pistons a set of worn old brake pads in combination with a flat head screw driver (or something comparable) is also possible, it will push the pistons back on both sides without the risk of damaging the pistons or the caliper
I use the old brake pads when compressing pistons doing brakes on my car so good tip
@@moonskyphotography2268 what also works on car brakes (if they have single piston calipers) are small screw clamps, in combination with a small piece of flat steel, or the old pad. But of course pushing it back by pushing it apart is also fine
put in some old brake pads and then use a screwdriver to push the pistons back
my backyard method for the pistons: if you also need to change the pads .. push the pistons back with a flathead screwdriver when the old pads are still in place :) that way the pistons wont get damaged... only the old pads take the damage in this method :) nicely done tutorial!
I hold onto old set pads just for this.
Nice video! You guys should try out using 99% Isopropyl Alcohol in replacement of the brake cleaner. It doesn't have the same de-greasing properties but is a safer and healthier option. The brake cleaner has some really harmful chemicals in it.
What kind of harmful chemicals? ( I just bought a can of muc off brake cleaner)
Fantastic video. All the others are so confusing. I like that it was explained with mistakes and like you were being taught at the same time. ✌🏻
Looking forward to the next video, keep it up! thanks you two!
Thank you for the video
I also use my Burst toothbrush which uses high oscillation movement, which I touch and chase up any bubbles from the bottom up, I find then all the time using it, flicking is good but this is really much better really gets them out.
How to tell if your Shimano brakes need to be bled? They start to feel like sram brakes
Great no syringe needed. Can this be done on a new empty system? Followed your guide on a cup bleed with new brakes with fluid already in and was done in a few minutes. Syd and Mack are the team!
Theoretically you could do it if the line is empty, but generally we've found it's better in that situation to do a traditional syringe bleed as it can sometimes be hard to get the fluid to start flowing if the line is empty.
Dude! You're making me want to go work on my bike! You're also making it all look easy!
Hey, do me a favor, when y'all get to installing new forks, will you do a good detailed job of explaining all about the headset? Like, how to tell what size yours is, and how to translate from old measures to the new standards? Also the difference between integrated cups and non-integrated?
This was SO MUCH more effective than the syringe method. I will never syringe again! Back to super smooth Ultegra brakes again!
Do not push the pistons back until you open up the bleed screw on the lever. Pushing the pistons forcefully back while the system is closed is a great way to crack them.
If this happened to you, then your system was probably overfilled by being bled without resetting the pistons first. The lever has a diaphragm that automatically collapses as your pads wear down, to compensate for the extra fluid needed from the pistons getting extended. This diaphragm will pop back up when you reset the pistons while the system is closed. However, if it's already up because there's too much oil, then something's gotta give when you push the pistons back.
@@mattgies The overfill scenario is the so called "lever bleed". When you "bleed" a Shimano brake by opening up the lever bleed screw, putting that bucket on filled with oil, then start to pump the lever. Hence this is popular, my advice is just open up the system before forcefully pushing back those pistons. Especially if it is not your brake, you do not know what the owner did to them previously.
@@mattgies and what will give is the diaphragm (more like a single-side open ended bladder, really).
ery cool! I am a newbie at all of this and own a Zugo E-Bike that I love. However, I am a rather lare man and need to both up-size and burn in my brakes, which Syd has shown the how-to's. Thnks Syd!
Video on simple Shimano bleed:
SRAM brakes have left the chat
hi，are you intersted in review ？
Thanks Syd..... Your video is by far the best I've seen. Did my first bleed this morning and worked a treat. Cheers all the way from Australia 🐨
you guys skipped an important part. Before the block is inserted. Clean the caliper out of all dirt, then with a cotton swab, dip it in mineral oil, and run it around the piston to clean again, and lubricate before pushing the piston back in. By not doing this you will compromise the brake before its time, by introducing dirt into the system. This was taught to me by Shimano. Yall should update this video. Holla if yall need any advice. :)
Don’t put mineral oil anywhere near your brake pads … that’s a fabulous way to ruin your pads and potentially your discs
, Do you use a cleaner first ? I would recomend to first use soap and water and a tooth brush or maybe simple green then spray with water let dry then lube the piston then compress then wipe away any excess oil then wash agin . but since my seals dont go bad in years and still compress easly I think I will consider pros vs cons of lubbing the seals .I really think the pistons shuld be upgraded , I think the stock ceramic pistons are abrasive to the seals , I upgraded my pistons and have just been cleaning the caliper with brake cleaner ive done many brake pad changes without lubing the pistons with no issue , I will just toss in some new seals every few years, its only like a ten or fifteen minute job when you know what youre doing .I would consider upgrading the plastic brake lever piston to titanium , if youre model is upgradable .
Great video with simple, easy to follow instructions. Gave me the confidence to do my own brakes on my mountain bike with great success! Thank you for taking the time to make this.
Later on you could make video on sram brakes. For me it is impossible to make them braking...
Great practical tips for all brake bleeding. There are SO many things to mess up, it helps to reduce them.
Tips like when it will drip and spill. Fluid will find the pads and disc with super human skill. Thwart it, really thwart it.
I would wear gloves , vent when spraying cleaner ,it's nasty stuff, and wear protective eye wear. Cover floor under drippy stuff.
I like the videos, keep them coming. Tip for alternative to marking brake lever location is to use your phone's level app and note the angle of the lever before putting in the stand. Then you can re-set up to the degree pretty easily.
Good tip!
Brilliant thank you SO much. Would this work on a pair of Magura 7’s I’ve got ? I never felt confident bleeding a brake until watching this.
Should've removed the front wheel too. Any bit of mineral oil that gets on the front brake rotors will cause it to lose power and squeal.
Thank youu!! I followed 4 other videos with syringes with overly complex procedures and explanations and none of them worked. I was already getting frustrated and thought I ll just have to give it to mechanic. The air simply wasn't getting out and I thought it has to be a more complex problem after all. But NOPE, air got out as soon I opened the bleed port when doing it this way.
Forgot eye protection (especially around brake spray) and tapping the brake line to release all the trapped air and contaminant.
LOVE your vids!
This is very much like bleeding brakes on cars, which made me wonder about whether there would be down sides to leaving the funnel in place until the very end, when everything at the back is seated and making lever pumps the the last stage?
Thanks again for such a fun and helpful channel!
That would be fine. It's just that having the funnel on the when you're reconnecting things can cause spills and if those spills end up on your front brake or rotor you're sad. That's why we usually remove the funnel to put everything back together then put it back on for a final lever bleed.
That is amazingly dirty fluid for a bike brake. One wonders what the owner has been doing to it.
That's an older Pivot and obvs this person has NEVER flushed their brake fluid....
Great explanation and the comments are helpful too.
One suggestion might be to expand the Why part, so that newbies understand what's going on. For example, quickly explain that pulling a lever pushes fluid through a hose to actuate the disc brakes. The fluid gets dirty because ... Here we're going to replace the old fluid, by draining it at the brakes and adding more through the lever.
Hello, have you eventually found out the reason for the dirty fluid? I am curious as well.
Another issue that bothers me, is why there is a need for bleeding in a non leaky brake system.
Thanks.
The brake fluid brakes down over time, so even in a perfectly sealed system, you'd need to bleed it. That being said, it also isn't a fully closed system as contaminants can sneak in past the pistons (similar to how contaminants can get past the seals in forks/shocks).
You definitely are not from the PNW. "Goo" on a bike here is almost always slug flavored!
😂😂
Way better than any Park Tool video, thanks Syd
if you were my carpentry apprentice i'd point out that you're wearing a tool vest so use it! you waste all sorts of time walking back & forth to put down & pick tools. also suggest duct taping a strand of 12 gauge household wire aka romex to a resealable container to use as a hook to hang the container off your frame to catch waste oil, instead of the extremely awkward messy bag technique. when the container gets full 20 lifetimes from now dispose of it responsibly with other household hazardous waste.
Instead of dumping the old fluid into a bag as it drains, I set everything up like I'm going to do a syringe bleed but with the cup full & the syringe empty. Once I open the bleeder port I gently pull the plunger out and carefully watch the fluid in the cup going down. Once it gets down low I close the port, remove the syringe hose and dump the old fluid. Easier for me anyway & less messy. Thanks for all you do, anytime I have a question I search for an answer by Syd first.
No No No No No! Crescent wrench bad! 7 mm box end wrench to avoid possibly rounding off the bleeder valve head. 4 stars of 5 for teh crescent wrench :-)
I use the Pedro's Disc Brake wrench. It has a 7 mm flare wrench at one end for the bleed valve, an 8 mm flare at the other end for hose end fittings, and a slot for rotor truing.
This fuckin guy....
@@7KingCobra7 what
@@mattgies q
@@brahmin_trad r
Thanks SO MUCH for this great video. Installed new XT levers with no syringe or any of that nonsense thanks to you!
I cringed when I saw an adjustable wrench being used on the bleed nipple - why why why ???
#garagehacks (not 'hacks' as in shortcuts) hacks, as in second-rate 🤦♂️🤮
7:07 😭