If you make even the smallest or tiniest mistake in doing this it will all goto hell and you will be out whatever you paid for your fancy hydraulic disc brakes.
Nice comprehensive review, covered the vast majority of it for sure! I think one good rule of thumb is to avoid bleeding through any process that puts the system under vacuum, which doesn't really fit good bleeding practice but at times may be tempting. The issue is with the hose connections on syringes to the fittings or the syringe itself. These connections can allow tiny air bubbles to get in when under vacuum and then you may introduce very tiny bubbles to your fluid that you may then push back into the system. As a rule I think it's best to never try to suck fluid through by pulling on syringe plungers and that avoids the problem altogether. If you only ever let fluid in passively via gravity or by pressurizing the system I think the odds of accidentally adding air are prrety small (as long as the fluid you start with is completely bubble free).
What really helped me was your tips of dialing out the lever throw adjustment, and changing the cant or angle of the lever mount to dislodge the last few stubborn bubbles from the lever reservoir.
I had a supremely stubborn pair of Shimano M9100s the other day. What I finally had to do was inject oil, with great force into the master cylinder to clear out the a-hole bubbles, stuck in the caliper. You can't be friends with these brakes. You got to be forceful right away and show them who the boss is.
You need to vacuum bleed the caliper by pulling the lever into the bar to seal the system from the reservoir, and drawing a vacuum with the syringe connected to the caliper, also orientating the caliper bleed port to be the highest part of the caliper, and tipping the caliper side to side helps.
Bubble behind the caliper piston shelf: As you bleed, while moving the lever to move the pistons while bleeding a magura Trail system, tap on the caliper with the hard plastic handle of a screw driver while moving lever around while bleed reservoirs are installed.
Wow I forgot how good Doddy was. Such an in depth look into how brakes work let alone just bleeding them. Makes so much more sense when you understand what's going on below the surface.
Thank you! I don't think I ever came across a video going through all those details. I finally understood the few missing puzzle pieces I needed to elevate my bleeding skills. Fantastic job 👍
I'm sure I'm not alone when I say it would be nice if GMBN Tech worked on some lower end, like proper budget stuff too. I'd have been very interested to see your technique on bleeding Clarke brakes. I'm sure there will be many others that can't afford a bike with mid to top end accessories but still love watching these videos. Keep us all involved please.
Thanks for this video. I learned a lot. It was a nice, clear and concise guide to understanding hydraulic brakes. I'm been trying to sort out my brakes on my electric scooter, and watching this really helped me understand the system. I think I know how to correct the problem now.
Missed the very important step of cleaning the pistons, opening the system at the lever so the fluid has somewhere to go and the diaphragm doesn't tear, and then pressing the pistons back into their bores so the bleed block actually fits between them.
Thanks for your educational experience and resources and support for replacing brake fluid. Hopefully, after watching, I will be able to take care of my brake system very through the video. God-bless.
Automotive mechanic here. I use silicone grease to lubricate the pistons, as you would on a car if you have a stuck piston in the caliper. It works out really well! But my qualified guess would be that silicone grease for car brakes is only compatible with DOT mountainbike breaks. This made a huge difference on my breaks. (Older aviid elixir model)
Outstanding tutorial! The cutaways provided next level clarity. And thanks for the extra mini-tips like tilting the Shimano levers back and forth. Thanks
awesome thank you, there is just one thing i‘ve learned from working in the bike brake industrie. if you have 4pistons make shure they all move nearly simultaneously. especially with magura 4piston brakes it is key to a good and quiet brake😬👍
Good info Doddy, thank you. After several mistakes, bleeding mine, I cannot stress enough the proper bleed block. I learned this after cracking a pot on my Saint breaks. 🤬 And of course I stripped the screw holding the caliper together. So, after replacing the entire caliper I have learned my lesson. 😁
High spec Shimano calipers have ceramic pistons to insulate the brake fluid from the heat coming from the pads and rotor. If you don't press them into the caliper squarely with a plastic tool, they can fracture as they are quite brittle.
I don't do the bleeding myself. My trusted bike mechanics do it for me. But it's great to learn even only bit-by-bit out of this video, Doddy. I find it very informative. As my practice for maintenance, I have my hydraulic breaks bled annually. Lots'a love, cheers, & Mabuhay, from tropical Philippines! #RideOn #KeepBiking
I've used probably 15 shops, none of them could bleed Sram correctly, learnt myself and they are so much better.... people hate on them because they cant bleed them properly.
Yeah, sometimes it can be a lot easier to head down to your local bike shop to get your brakes bled. You know you're getting a quality service if you're not sure about the correct bleeding process. Thanks for the support, and safe riding! 👍
@@MrSupermugen Surely, I'll gain the confidence of doing it myself in the future. It's just that it's not my expertise. But being in the shop watching the bike mech do the stuff, I think I can certainly learn it.
Very nice, concise upload. I was hoping it would mention SRAM's new DB8 mineral oil brakes as I just unexpectedly got them on my new bike (supply issues) and there's very little information on them so far. They are already spongy but this video has given me a few more ideas. Thanks.
I have my own method which I found out while bleeding the clutch Master Cylinder on my w124 15years ago. I connect an electro pump taken from the washer system to the bleeding port connect it airtight and put a hose back up to the reservoir inlet. Set it on and wait. In the beginning you can see plenty air bubbles in the stream. After a few minutes you can only see very small ones then a few minutes later only braking fluid. Close the bleeding pump while pump is running. The strong stream trough the system gets every bubble even in pockets they come out.
Very comprehensive overview. That‘s a good reference for years to come. Can you cut open a Shimano lever? I‘d see the proof that the bite point adjustment on those does nothing at all.
It does, but it only increases the dead stroke which most people want to minimise and after making the adjustment, you have to correct for it by winding the reach adjustment, otherwise it doesn't seem like anything happens at all.
@@gmbntech Hiya, i wouldn't lube pistons generally on the outer side, clean yes and especially before fitting new pads (when pushing pistons back through the seals) (and during any caliper rebuild) doing that will just attract dust/dirt, as as you say in the video it is the the seals that help the pistons retract and thus they need to grip the piston. As the pads wear down they will edge out slowly through the seal, but in terms of brake on/off the piston movement is managed by the seal flexing in and out it is the reason they are square and there is some space around the seals in the caliper- same on cars/motorbikes. What we are missing as that a lot of larger app caliper have is nice dust boots that protect the exposed part of the piston.
After disassembling and cleaning my Shimano Deore XT rear caliper I had crazy amounts of air trapped everywhere. The only thing that worked was bleeding the system like a car or motorcycle. Keep a full reservoir on top of the lever and pump the fluid through or pull a vacuum on the caliper.
An excellent video overall, thanks for that. I would agree with a previous comment about the "bite point" adjuster, which only moves the position of the master cylinder piston relative to the MC itself, at least to my understanding, and not the position of the pads relative to the disc. Slightly off topic, but it really pi**es me off as to why bicycles and motorcycles/scooters have the front brake lever on opposite sides. As a lifelong motorcyclist myself, any cyclists/motorcyclists out there will know what I mean! Thanks again for a really good vid.
Perfect video, I want to learn how to work on my bike myself, A it's a nightmare booking into shops these days as they are so busy and B l, at least I'll know how to fix my bike trail side. I'm going to attempt to bleed my brakes today. Thanks for the video it will help out alot 👍
Hi everyone. I was searching for a video about how to properly flush your brake system and when it's recommended to do it. There's none. I'm a bike mechanic starting to work on e-bikes and for reasons beyond my control i can't get the recommended brake liquid for Tektro, which is the brand most bikes we deal have. Do i need to flush the system before refilling? I understand there are some tricks for improving the brakes just removing air bubbles from the system and filling some liquid in. Can i do that mixing brands? Your help will be highly appreciated.
Nice one Doddy. Another great descriptive video - think I might have a go over the Christmas period. Just received my Epic Bleed kit for my Shimano brakes 👊🏻
I prefer the 2 syringe method, for not only replacing the mineral oil but more easily observing any air bubbles in the system. And its far easier to handle & less messy than the method you are explaining, at least from my experience.
big thanks. going to attempt magura marta brake bleed but will likely pick up some shimano brakes to replace but want to try bleeding for the experience. this was a great video on what to expect, wetting my mind.... 😎👍
Great video. Easy to follow. Some unhappy, menacing, vindictive soul decided to cut my rear brake cable because they couldnt steal my bike. so I have to replace the entire cable. The whole replacement plus bleed kit cost me like eu100. Not cheap but I gotta do it because I can't wait 3 weeks for a booking plus the actual store repair will only save me eu20.
This video taught me that my bike shop sold me a DOT kit for me to use with mineral oil brakes. It's a relief to know why my brakes are still spongy! Time to get a refund.
Very informative video, thanks! A tiny correction: The bite point adjuster doesn't affect the distance between the pads and rotor. It only affects the dead stroke of the master cylinder's piston.
Really good info. I’ve just been on the shimano website as I’ve just bought some Deore brakes. I don’t know if they have updated website. But Deore and lots of other shimano are classed as ‘one way bleeding’ only need a funnel at the top to bleed.
u say water come down... so mineral has to performe a 2 step... a down bleed 1st to escape water and old fluid ... then an up bleed to escape air ... 👌
I was with you right up until the "manufacturer specific bit" when suddenly my shimano brakes needed brake and caliper attention, bucket and syringe, or syringes at both ends, bleed bottom to top, then back down again... wtf?! 😆
I agree with you that this is the place where it went off the rails. Having seen other bleeding videos, I knew what he meant by bottom to top and then top to bottom but it certainly wasn't explained here. Kinda surprising because everything up to that point was fantastic. Maybe they think you will find brand-specific videos and follow those and this was more of an intro/overview.
Pintosin CHF 7.1 mineral oil is far superior mineral oil for Shimano brakes in my opinion, plus it's way cheaper and you get so much for your 25 - 30 bucks or whatever it is I paid for it
Good and informative review👍👍👍 but what if i just wash my bleed kit with degreaser in orderder to use it with other kind of oil? For example: i bled brakes which run on mineral oil, washed the kit and now i can bleed with dot using the same kit, or not?
I don't have the brands that you said in the video. The brand I have is TREK. And I use mineral fluid. I have a small bleed port on the top and I can't find any bleed port on the caliper. How can I bleed this system?
Hi, great info, thanks. Quick question with Logan 2206 breaks, do you know if they are top to bottom or bottom to top. If it helps they are on an Engwe engine pro. Any help would be appreciated 🙏 😊
Ok ive got a cannondale that is probably 2016, i dont see a bleed port on my brake handle. Ive pulled the cap off but i dont know how to bleed them as the cylinder in super shallow and as i try to cycle the brake it almost goes dry each pump. Ive been off of it for a couple of years. Im not real familiar with newer bikes systems. Its a 29 inch mountain bike if it helps. Thank you for any help. It also says dot 3 or 4 on the lid.
I can’t be the only one watching this trying to figure out Kayo gen 1 brakes (pit bike with hydraulic mountain bike brakes, has a fill port AND a reservoir cover at the lever, and an oring’d screw at the caliper that has to be completely removed in order to push fluid up from the caliper. The official solution is a $90 replacement re-design that uses mineral fluid instead of DOT4 and a different bleed setup. Pulling my hair out and have a frustrated 7 year old.
Great video. I have a "not-a-wheelchair" that uses Zoom hydraulic brakes. The front brake has a splitter so that both wheels can be stopped at the same time. Any ideas on how to attack the bleed on a split hydraulic brake? (The rear has only one.)
This video came out exactly when I needed it. If I had a second hand bike that needed bleeding but didn’t know what type of mineral oil it had, how do I proceed?
@gmbntech whilst we know we can’t mix dot and mineral… can you show us what happens when you replace dot fluid with mineral in a brake and vice versa? Always been curious
Dot fluid attacks rubber, that is why special materials have to be used with dot brakes and why you see rebuild kits for dot brake calipers and levers, but not mineral brakes.
WOW! It doesn't get any more thorough that this! Outstandingly masterful!
Probably the best video I've seen on subject of brakes, how they work, and bleeding them.
Thanks a lot, Jim! Doddy did a great job at explaining everything! 👍
Thanks for convincing me that this is all over my head. I’ll take my bike in to the shop for this process.
no not really, i’m 14 and can bleed my own brakes. his video is just a more in detail and complex explanation
@@Too_Goated1 that is the reason I prefer to read instructions rather than listen to someone else..they may use a LOT more words than I need..
Literally bro way to complicated🤣
If you make even the smallest or tiniest mistake in doing this it will all goto hell and you will be out whatever you paid for your fancy hydraulic disc brakes.
Well, if you take the time to learn how to do this, then you can save yourself £££, brake bleeding service can cost £40+
Nice comprehensive review, covered the vast majority of it for sure! I think one good rule of thumb is to avoid bleeding through any process that puts the system under vacuum, which doesn't really fit good bleeding practice but at times may be tempting. The issue is with the hose connections on syringes to the fittings or the syringe itself. These connections can allow tiny air bubbles to get in when under vacuum and then you may introduce very tiny bubbles to your fluid that you may then push back into the system. As a rule I think it's best to never try to suck fluid through by pulling on syringe plungers and that avoids the problem altogether. If you only ever let fluid in passively via gravity or by pressurizing the system I think the odds of accidentally adding air are prrety small (as long as the fluid you start with is completely bubble free).
I see what you mean, though SRAM's own bleed procedure is to place it under vacuum unfortunately.
What really helped me was your tips of dialing out the lever throw adjustment, and changing the cant or angle of the lever mount to dislodge the last few stubborn bubbles from the lever reservoir.
I had a supremely stubborn pair of Shimano M9100s the other day. What I finally had to do was inject oil, with great force into the master cylinder to clear out the a-hole bubbles, stuck in the caliper. You can't be friends with these brakes. You got to be forceful right away and show them who the boss is.
Don’t force it, get a bigger hammer!
Just get the wife's vibrator to shake those bubbles lost
You need to vacuum bleed the caliper by pulling the lever into the bar to seal the system from the reservoir, and drawing a vacuum with the syringe connected to the caliper, also orientating the caliper bleed port to be the highest part of the caliper, and tipping the caliper side to side helps.
Cause the oil has wax particles that the air sticks to. I kissed the pads and got rear but front had to set for a week till got the bubble out
🤣
Bubble behind the caliper piston shelf: As you bleed, while moving the lever to move the pistons while bleeding a magura Trail system, tap on the caliper with the hard plastic handle of a screw driver while moving lever around while bleed reservoirs are installed.
Yes it exactly this. Those bubbles stick.
I've used my battery razor to great effect to vibrate those capillary bubbles out
Good idea, but I have a beard. Hey maybe my wife could help!
@@markthomasson5077 lol
The most thorough explanation of the topic! Cheers.👍
Wow I forgot how good Doddy was. Such an in depth look into how brakes work let alone just bleeding them. Makes so much more sense when you understand what's going on below the surface.
Thank you! I don't think I ever came across a video going through all those details. I finally understood the few missing puzzle pieces I needed to elevate my bleeding skills. Fantastic job 👍
Excellent video, once again. Dodd truly is omniscient - with regard to bike tech!
Thanks, Chuck! He truly is! 👍
I'm sure I'm not alone when I say it would be nice if GMBN Tech worked on some lower end, like proper budget stuff too. I'd have been very interested to see your technique on bleeding Clarke brakes. I'm sure there will be many others that can't afford a bike with mid to top end accessories but still love watching these videos.
Keep us all involved please.
I have the Gemma GA-1000 brakes and there are no bleed guides anywhere!
ABSOLUTE MASTER CLASS OF A VIDEO! DODDY YOU ARE ABSOLUTE GOLD! please never leave. You have no idea how much the industry loves and needs you 🤘
Brilliant episode, very practical. Thanks Doddy 😁.
Thanks for this video. I learned a lot. It was a nice, clear and concise guide to understanding hydraulic brakes.
I'm been trying to sort out my brakes on my electric scooter, and watching this really helped me understand the system. I think I know how to correct the problem now.
This is the best video about brakes that i've ever seen on the internet so far
Missed the very important step of cleaning the pistons, opening the system at the lever so the fluid has somewhere to go and the diaphragm doesn't tear, and then pressing the pistons back into their bores so the bleed block actually fits between them.
Thanks for your educational experience and resources and support for replacing brake fluid. Hopefully, after watching, I will be able to take care of my brake system very through the video. God-bless.
Best brake bleed video, ever. Seriously.
Don't forget to mark your brake lever positions before moving them! (Been there, done that)
Automotive mechanic here. I use silicone grease to lubricate the pistons, as you would on a car if you have a stuck piston in the caliper.
It works out really well! But my qualified guess would be that silicone grease for car brakes is only compatible with DOT mountainbike breaks. This made a huge difference on my breaks. (Older aviid elixir model)
All.depemda on the ingredients compatibility between the grease and type of oring on the calipers. Swelling, ect...
Outstanding tutorial! The cutaways provided next level clarity. And thanks for the extra mini-tips like tilting the Shimano levers back and forth. Thanks
No problem, Will! The team did a great job bringing this video together!
Fantastic video. I've learned alot. Thank you.
Thanks Doddy
Perfect timing for myself
Cheers
Perfection! 🤌
awesome thank you, there is just one thing i‘ve learned from working in the bike brake industrie. if you have 4pistons make shure they all move nearly simultaneously. especially with magura 4piston brakes it is key to a good and quiet brake😬👍
Good info Doddy, thank you. After several mistakes, bleeding mine, I cannot stress enough the proper bleed block. I learned this after cracking a pot on my Saint breaks. 🤬 And of course I stripped the screw holding the caliper together. So, after replacing the entire caliper I have learned my lesson. 😁
How did you break it?
High spec Shimano calipers have ceramic pistons to insulate the brake fluid from the heat coming from the pads and rotor. If you don't press them into the caliper squarely with a plastic tool, they can fracture as they are quite brittle.
As always excellent tech video from Doddy. Thanks. Btw: Message to Alex from GCN - Watch and learn...
I don't do the bleeding myself. My trusted bike mechanics do it for me. But it's great to learn even only bit-by-bit out of this video, Doddy. I find it very informative.
As my practice for maintenance, I have my hydraulic breaks bled annually.
Lots'a love, cheers, & Mabuhay, from tropical Philippines! #RideOn #KeepBiking
I've used probably 15 shops, none of them could bleed Sram correctly, learnt myself and they are so much better.... people hate on them because they cant bleed them properly.
Yeah, sometimes it can be a lot easier to head down to your local bike shop to get your brakes bled. You know you're getting a quality service if you're not sure about the correct bleeding process. Thanks for the support, and safe riding! 👍
@@MrSupermugen Surely, I'll gain the confidence of doing it myself in the future. It's just that it's not my expertise. But being in the shop watching the bike mech do the stuff, I think I can certainly learn it.
brilliant doddy, love the cut out parts to showing how it all works, iv bled many a car break so hoping principles are the same.
Best tutorial ever , thank you .
Very nice, concise upload. I was hoping it would mention SRAM's new DB8 mineral oil brakes as I just unexpectedly got them on my new bike (supply issues) and there's very little information on them so far. They are already spongy but this video has given me a few more ideas. Thanks.
I have my own method which I found out while bleeding the clutch Master Cylinder on my w124 15years ago.
I connect an electro pump taken from the washer system to the bleeding port connect it airtight and put a hose back up to the reservoir inlet.
Set it on and wait.
In the beginning you can see plenty air bubbles in the stream.
After a few minutes you can only see very small ones then a few minutes later only braking fluid.
Close the bleeding pump while pump is running.
The strong stream trough the system gets every bubble even in pockets they come out.
Very comprehensive overview. That‘s a good reference for years to come. Can you cut open a Shimano lever? I‘d see the proof that the bite point adjustment on those does nothing at all.
But it definitely does.
It does, but it only increases the dead stroke which most people want to minimise and after making the adjustment, you have to correct for it by winding the reach adjustment, otherwise it doesn't seem like anything happens at all.
Great video, thanks Doddy, merry christmas, cheers
Great Vid. One point I have issue with. You do not need two kits for DOT and Mineral. Just make sure you wash the syringes, tubes, connectors.
Great video. I was wondering about lubing the pistons - timely tip!
Looking forward to the brand specific videos.
Thanks.
Thank you, Tom! Stay tuned. 👀
@@gmbntech Hiya, i wouldn't lube pistons generally on the outer side, clean yes and especially before fitting new pads (when pushing pistons back through the seals) (and during any caliper rebuild) doing that will just attract dust/dirt, as as you say in the video it is the the seals that help the pistons retract and thus they need to grip the piston. As the pads wear down they will edge out slowly through the seal, but in terms of brake on/off the piston movement is managed by the seal flexing in and out it is the reason they are square and there is some space around the seals in the caliper- same on cars/motorbikes. What we are missing as that a lot of larger app caliper have is nice dust boots that protect the exposed part of the piston.
After disassembling and cleaning my Shimano Deore XT rear caliper I had crazy amounts of air trapped everywhere. The only thing that worked was bleeding the system like a car or motorcycle. Keep a full reservoir on top of the lever and pump the fluid through or pull a vacuum on the caliper.
Thanks Doddy for another great video.
Glad you enjoyed it Vince! Hope it was useful
An excellent video overall, thanks for that. I would agree with a previous comment about the "bite point" adjuster, which only moves the position of the master cylinder piston relative to the MC itself, at least to my understanding, and not the position of the pads relative to the disc.
Slightly off topic, but it really pi**es me off as to why bicycles and motorcycles/scooters have the front brake lever on opposite sides. As a lifelong motorcyclist myself, any cyclists/motorcyclists out there will know what I mean! Thanks again for a really good vid.
Really helpful and clear. Thanks Doddy and team.
An excellent overview!!!
Perfect video, I want to learn how to work on my bike myself, A it's a nightmare booking into shops these days as they are so busy and B l, at least I'll know how to fix my bike trail side. I'm going to attempt to bleed my brakes today. Thanks for the video it will help out alot 👍
Hi everyone. I was searching for a video about how to properly flush your brake system and when it's recommended to do it. There's none. I'm a bike mechanic starting to work on e-bikes and for reasons beyond my control i can't get the recommended brake liquid for Tektro, which is the brand most bikes we deal have. Do i need to flush the system before refilling? I understand there are some tricks for improving the brakes just removing air bubbles from the system and filling some liquid in. Can i do that mixing brands? Your help will be highly appreciated.
Nice one Doddy. Another great descriptive video - think I might have a go over the Christmas period. Just received my Epic Bleed kit for my Shimano brakes 👊🏻
Great video! I knew nothing about hydraulic brakes. Now I understand that I wont adjust them myself :)
best explanation ever, thanks
I prefer the 2 syringe method, for not only replacing the mineral oil but more easily observing any air bubbles in the system.
And its far easier to handle & less messy than the method you are explaining, at least from my experience.
You and Anna et all are just crushing it with content for DIY and local bike shops. I'm learning so much.
Thank you, very useful.
Thanks for watching, Richard!
I'm running Magura MT7s and they were an absolute nightmare to bleed
Same with the mt5's
Why ? Best way is do IT Shimano Style. 👍
Perfect! Thank you
Cheers, just saved £50 at Halfrauds with this video. They want £25 a set to bleed brakes, told them to jog on. Great video! Thanks.
Great video Doddy!
big thanks. going to attempt magura marta brake bleed but will likely pick up some shimano brakes to replace but want to try bleeding for the experience. this was a great video on what to expect, wetting my mind.... 😎👍
Great video. Easy to follow. Some unhappy, menacing, vindictive soul decided to cut my rear brake cable because they couldnt steal my bike. so I have to replace the entire cable. The whole replacement plus bleed kit cost me like eu100. Not cheap but I gotta do it because I can't wait 3 weeks for a booking plus the actual store repair will only save me eu20.
Great video, thanks
very good video, thanks alot
16:47 why pressurise the lever? It would disconnect the reservoir form the rest of the system.
This video taught me that my bike shop sold me a DOT kit for me to use with mineral oil brakes. It's a relief to know why my brakes are still spongy! Time to get a refund.
Thank you that was a very informative video you presented it extremely well and it was very helpful kudos
Very informative video, thanks! A tiny correction: The bite point adjuster doesn't affect the distance between the pads and rotor. It only affects the dead stroke of the master cylinder's piston.
Excellent video thanks.
Do I have to open the bleed port on the caliper while adding fluid from the top and pulling the lever? Some videos show that other just don't
Thanks for the info. Any tips or pointers on Tektro (Dot-fluid) brakes in future videos would be highly appreciated.
This is the video I have been waiting for.
Glad to have helped!
Excellent!
Thanks, very informative!
Really good info. I’ve just been on the shimano website as I’ve just bought some Deore brakes. I don’t know if they have updated website. But Deore and lots of other shimano are classed as ‘one way bleeding’ only need a funnel at the top to bleed.
Perfect timing I was gona help my frnd bleed his brakes
Very informative, tha ks 😊
Man the singer from Rammstein sure knows his way around mountain bikes!
Absolute shreddin kings. Bossed it 🤙🏻 #Marra
braking master class
Very helpful!! Thanks Doddy👍:)
Glad this was useful! Thanks! 👍
u say water come down... so mineral has to performe a 2 step... a down bleed 1st to escape water and old fluid ... then an up bleed to escape air ... 👌
I was with you right up until the "manufacturer specific bit" when suddenly my shimano brakes needed brake and caliper attention, bucket and syringe, or syringes at both ends, bleed bottom to top, then back down again... wtf?! 😆
I agree with you that this is the place where it went off the rails. Having seen other bleeding videos, I knew what he meant by bottom to top and then top to bottom but it certainly wasn't explained here. Kinda surprising because everything up to that point was fantastic. Maybe they think you will find brand-specific videos and follow those and this was more of an intro/overview.
Thanks a lot!
On the ball Doddy very important job 💚💚
Pintosin CHF 7.1 mineral oil is far superior mineral oil for Shimano brakes in my opinion, plus it's way cheaper and you get so much for your 25 - 30 bucks or whatever it is I paid for it
I Cannot find any information on XOD-E300 brakes and which mineral oil to use and how to bleed top down or revers way thank you Niall
I never overtight handles....considering better to move than brake if hit something
Same here!
Great informative vid, not sure what is going on with Doddy's hair do though
Good and informative review👍👍👍 but what if i just wash my bleed kit with degreaser in orderder to use it with other kind of oil? For example: i bled brakes which run on mineral oil, washed the kit and now i can bleed with dot using the same kit, or not?
I'll just get v-brakes on my next bike. Had them before and didn't have any issues for more than 10 years. Now with discs on the other hand...
Thanks a lot for making this video. I have a question. Can the brake cable match with any brake caliper as well brake levers?
I don't have the brands that you said in the video.
The brand I have is TREK. And I use mineral fluid.
I have a small bleed port on the top and I can't find any bleed port on the caliper.
How can I bleed this system?
7:45 where does the moisture get in there if it's gas tight system?
At some level, certain materials are porous.
Hi, great info, thanks. Quick question with Logan 2206 breaks, do you know if they are top to bottom or bottom to top. If it helps they are on an Engwe engine pro. Any help would be appreciated 🙏 😊
Ok ive got a cannondale that is probably 2016, i dont see a bleed port on my brake handle. Ive pulled the cap off but i dont know how to bleed them as the cylinder in super shallow and as i try to cycle the brake it almost goes dry each pump. Ive been off of it for a couple of years. Im not real familiar with newer bikes systems. Its a 29 inch mountain bike if it helps. Thank you for any help. It also says dot 3 or 4 on the lid.
I can’t be the only one watching this trying to figure out Kayo gen 1 brakes (pit bike with hydraulic mountain bike brakes, has a fill port AND a reservoir cover at the lever, and an oring’d screw at the caliper that has to be completely removed in order to push fluid up from the caliper. The official solution is a $90 replacement re-design that uses mineral fluid instead of DOT4 and a different bleed setup. Pulling my hair out and have a frustrated 7 year old.
Can anyone tell me why you have to adjust the reach out as far as possible?
Great video. I have a "not-a-wheelchair" that uses Zoom hydraulic brakes. The front brake has a splitter so that both wheels can be stopped at the same time. Any ideas on how to attack the bleed on a split hydraulic brake? (The rear has only one.)
You missed the tektro brand. Do you bleed from bottom to top? Or vice versus? Thanks
This video came out exactly when I needed it. If I had a second hand bike that needed bleeding but didn’t know what type of mineral oil it had, how do I proceed?
If i want to bleed the front brakes, what do you mean top to bottom? The front wheel and left brake?
@gmbntech whilst we know we can’t mix dot and mineral… can you show us what happens when you replace dot fluid with mineral in a brake and vice versa? Always been curious
Dot fluid attacks rubber, that is why special materials have to be used with dot brakes and why you see rebuild kits for dot brake calipers and levers, but not mineral brakes.
15 minutes in, OK guess we're going to the bike shop 🤣
I hope that he does Clark Breaks one day 🙂.