The Easiest Way To Shorten Hydraulic Disc Brake Hoses
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- Опубликовано: 2 авг 2024
- Do you have messy cables and brake hoses ruining the look of your bike? Well, that doesn;t need to be the case! Hydraulic disc brake maintenance can seem like a pain, but Alex shows you how to shorten your disc hoses and bleed them in the easiest way possible. Whilst this video shows how to do it on Shimano brakes, the process is similar for other manufacturers.
00:00 Intro
00:17 Why shorten the hoses?
01:09 What do you need?
02:10 Step 1: Disconnect hoses
02:39 Step 2: Cut down hoses
04:10 Step 3: Fit new barb
04:52 Step 4: Re-attach hoses
06:07 Step 5: Bleed brakes
08:32 Summary
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Спорт
If you’d shortened the hoses at the calliper, you wouldn’t have needed to remove the handlebar tape. You just need to pull the hose through the forks/frame. After all, you would remove the handlebar tape to replace a worn calliper.
Before i start - no i am not yet another hater, or internet troll - just pointing out - so people won't get confused
So many things wrong on this video that can put people in difficult position.
1) If you have option (and can pull hose near calliper - then cutting near calliper will be much easier and less faff with bar tape etc.
2) You forgot to mention that note 15mm of hose that gets inside to calliper / brake levers
3) You didn't mentioned about making sure you have nut still on the hose before putting needle - as it might fall in the process
4) it is much easier to put olive first before needle and as in some cases after putting needle hose expand that insetting olive afterwards will struggle
5) You should also mentioned that it is safer to clamp or use electric tape on handlebar tape to hold it in place and prevent from unravel more
6) Before pushing Pisons - clean calipers and so no dirt scratches pistons.
7) You did not mentioned anything about being careful on pressing evenly pistons
8) Forgot to mention about little rubber o ring in the bleed port
Rim breaks, rims with hooks, tyres with tubes and BSA BB. Because I like easy (and cheap) bike life.
And cables that aren't training for the Contortionist World Cup.
How does it make it easier for you that your rim breaks?
Heheeee ☺️😉
I don't do a full bleed on my brakes. I just fill the cup with fluid and put it on the brake. Then I just tap my brakes over and over until there is no more bubbles coming up. The tapping of the brakes is done by just quickly flicking the brake and let it selv adjust fast back out. That is enough for the bubbles to come out. Works like a charm.
Even easier, leave the bleed cup attached to the brake lever with fluid in place, then simply tape or strap the brake lever to the bar (or as close as it will go). After a few hours, untape the lever and allow it to return to the normal position. The brake pull should be as good as new.
Thanks Alex. It's very satisfying to do this and have a tidy looking bike!
That bleed process was easy! A lot easier than on a car. I'm no longer worried about having to service hydraulic brakes. Thanks, Alex!
In my opinion, the bleed proces Alex shows here is too simplified. You really risk getting air bubbles trapped in the hose and poor braking. I suggest you watch Park Tool's instruction video for a better method (there are different videos for the different kinds of brake levers)
The bleed process is simpified compared to the official Shimano method, however I tried both ways on my MTB and the simplified process always worked fine. I use a full syringe of oil to be sure to get all air out, I never had any problems.
I like to bleed and squeeze before re-wrapping the bar tape just in case of a bad compression fitting fit.
Hey Alex, nice vid! I’d like to see the same thing but for rim brakes and mechanical shifters! I plan to shorten the hoses on my cockpit and on my own, but not sure where to start from. Tnx!
Buen trabajo
Maybe the same job but on fully integrated systems for correct routing of cables and adjusting please 🙏
Excelente 👌
Excelente
Impresionante
How about refreshing free hub maintenance? That’s what has slowed me down this week. Free hub slipping in the drive direction.
ruclips.net/video/IDwH0QOnn_Y/видео.html
Muy impresionante
I did that style of bleed just before an event I was looking forward to. Mistake! Somehow I got loads of air in and with it being the first time on a bike (i e do e M/Cs and car before so had a false sense of knowledge/competence) I didn't know about tilting the bike up and down to release bubbles. So, vrakes were crap and I missed the event 😢. Lesson learned I wont mess just before an event again and I will do better research on work methods. Once I knew what to do it only took a few mins to sort.
Good
Genial 👍🏻
Super
Genial 👌👍
❤️❤️❤️
Hi Alex, thanks for this tutorial! I'd like some clarifications on which type of grease to use depending on the parts you're assembling when building a bike. Thanks ! #askgcntech
First, shorten from the caliper side.
Second, the leaver should be the highest point when bleeding the system the way you did it.
Would not let you do my breaks!
Buena
9:09 Hi Alex, the most frustrating job I personally find is removing and replacing the headset bearings especially tightening up the bolts to load the bearings correctly and take out any play.
that's one of the very few things easier done with the bike on the floor, not in a bike stand... and do it after you've set up your front brake (or just leave it intentionally loose and come back to it after you've set up your front brake)...
TL;DR: you tighten the headset bolt (the cap screw) first before touching the stem bolts... and you only tighten it enough to remove play
the reason to do it on the floor is that with every 1/8th of a turn, you can engage your front brake and rock the bike back and forth and feel for any play in the headset... if there's play, just go another 1/8th a turn and check again... keep going until you have no play (and only just... don't over-tighten), and then tighten the stem bolts
once the stem bolts are done, they are what's holding the headset in place, not the cap screw... this is why you don't need to over tighten it once you've eliminated play
i hope this helps
PS. Oh, also make sure you front tyre is pumped up... it helps make any play feel more obvious
Nice video once again, quick question though. Is bike brake fluid as good at spoiling finish and paintwork as car brake fluid is (or was) ?
It depends on the manufacturer, Shimano uses mineral oil which does not really attack paint . Some companies such as avid use DOT fluid which is the same as is used in cars.
@@raginganarchist cheers for that.
@@johnstracit's also important to use the fluid the individual manufacturer intends for the type of brake, you can not use Dot fluid in a mineral oil brake or the other way.
I swapped hydr. brakes To replace cable discs. The set was complete, with long hoses. The rear One is still wrapped around downtube. Once. 😂
Would a bleed be necessary? If you've been careful and not depressed the lever, you shouldn't have fluid leaking out the hose and the shifter should still be fine as well. That's what I've done before and it worked fine
You will most likely get a tiny air bubble in there. It might not be necessary to get rid of it, but it is safer to bleed.
@@SimonHBS i spose it could happen, I wouldn't default to doing it though, id test the brakes out first as they might be alright
Rim brakes rule for road bikes
Is it possible to shorten the hoses from the caliper side ?
If you flip the bike until the connector is higher than the brake lever, maybe.
No
@@K_I_M_A_N For my understanding could you please explain why not. Is it not just another compression fitting or am I missing something?
Why tho?
Yes. That's the smart way.
Always harder to get air out of the rear brakes because it’s a longer hose and it goes under the bottom bracket. I leave my bike in a stand overnight with the front wheel in the air so the hose is as vertical as possible to allow bubbles to migrate to the lever
A point to include that maybe hadn’t been posted is the cost of that Shimano syringe. I paid, stupidly, US$40 for pennies worth of plastic and fabrication.
missed the remove pluger step..... im lost when do i do that ahhhhhhhhh
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alex is running 12s cranks on 11s groupset
Good spot! Yes you are correct. But its actually Chloe's bike .
It makes no difference if the chain isn't too narrow.
Could also be a replacement set from the recal.
thats what i thiougnt@@luukrutten1295
Why doesn't the mineral oil come out of the hose when you disconnect it?
Try it with a straw in a glass of water. Keep one finger on the end of the straw to seal that end. Et voila.
Hose sealed one end so air pressure stops gravity pulling the oil out of the open end
In my opinion, the bleed proces Alex shows here is too simplified. You really risk getting air bubbles trapped in the hose and poor braking. I suggest you watch Park Tool's instruction videos for a better method (there are different videos for the different kinds of brake levers)
Om my mtb I tried both ways, the official Shimano one and the one where you just push a full syringe of oil through the system to flush all air out.
For me the simplified version worked as good as the official one, no air in the brakes and an excellent pressure point
As usual Alex makes it too complicated. It's far better to push the excess hose through the frame or fork and cut it short at the calliper end. To be honest you could just push the hose through the frame and just leave it be. That's a huge faff just to shorten it by 25mm! Yet again it seems like a pot boiler video to plug tools from a certain sponsor.
Excelente
Genial 👍👌
❤❤❤
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Excelente
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