I work at a bike shop and we have been using this method for years. Some old krumuden type showed me one day and I've done it like this since. At the shop we have an old isopropyl bottle with a spoke bent around it in a hook that holds the bottle and attaches to the frame at the same time. I also will pump the lever with the caliper port closed to get the last bit of air out. Then while holding the lever slightly crack the bleed port open and then shut it. This will push any remaining air out of the caliper. Pump the lever a few more time and you should have a killer bleed. You can repeat these steps if the lever is spongy. Good work by this mechanic a+
I think I've bled Shimano brakes a million times and I still can't explain it this well, along with all those excellent tips and tricks. Great instructional video!
True..one more thing about reuse of pads.. take out and burn any oil that may be there. I tried brake cleaner and sanding... Burning the oil off is best...😀
Huh. Knew about the qtips but brushes and soapwater... so simple! We might only get 1 video a week but this channel beats lot of those that have full time editors etc. Thanks for all the awesome content, I rewatch these weekly just to enjoy some nerdy stuff
It is a wonder that syringe is included in atleast one Shimano bleed kit. Have never seen the use for it. Maybe for some twisty brake lines to get bubbles out
I have been watching your videos for years now. They were already very good in the beginning but you managed to take it to another level. Congrats. You are one of the best resources for mechanical knowledge on youtube, right up there with Park Tool. Love it and thx for the work.
THANK YOU for the hose specificiation and a tutorial on how to do this without have to spend the bs amount of money the Shimano syringe, hose, retention clip crap costs.. absolute daylight robbery.. Now I just gotta find the hose locally..
Found it! Bled the front and it is amazing - almost zero play on the lever and firm.. the back is another matter - a bunch of air came out initially and I got that away by lifting the hose, but some seems to persist somewhere.. no amount of running fluid through, and even pulling the lever in and opening the bleed port, then closing the port and releasing lever, to pump fluid thru the way I learned to bleed car brakes, has it any more than biting 50% back on the lever stroke and not that firm. I did put new pads on the front - pushed pistons back and bled with a block, while I left the pads in on the rear (!!) - but am thinking it's unlikely that that would make such a difference.. ??..
Some great learning points there even though I've been doing this for years. Especially interesting is the gravity feed of brake fluid as I've been putting it in with a syringe from caliper side but always get air bubbles. I will try your method next time. Thanks
I tried it once and results for me were piss poor. I get very good results with syringe pushing from the bottom, adjusting the bike in a stand for most vertical hose position, removing caliper for better angles to clear bubbles from caliper and tapping hose a lot, from the bottom all the way to the top as much as I can with some hose in the frame. Once I'm done with caliper and hose, I also adjust the bar left and right and rotate the lever body to get rid of the air from there properly. It's no quick bleed but brakes are sharp after that. Also servo wave free levers let me feel the effect so much clearer, than when I had servo wave.
Excellent video presentation but it didn't work for me. My old caliper had leaked most of my hydraulic fluid. The hydrostatic pressure with a simple gravity bleed was inadequate to overcome the airlocks in my line, through the tiny orifice in the Shimano cup. Adding a syringe worked like a charm.
For that kind of situation - caliper empty - syringe i the only option. In this vid I tried to simplify it as it applies to 80-90% of the situations. Enjoy your fresh brakes!
Great job!! I love the trimming of the bleed blocks wings so it goes in from the top.... genius! I only have one step that I do different, and that is to open the lever and install the bleed cup with a little bit of fluid before pushing the caliper pistons back into their bores. That way the fluid has somewhere to go and you won't risk tearing the delicate diaphragm in the lever. Cheers!!
@@LoveMTB Oh man, I'm down to 1 day a week at best for the last few weeks and our trails are absolutely hammered with so many 12" deep ruts down our steep chutes. Our dirt doesn't handle rain well to say the least! But the bike is clean, maintained and I've got some YT content stored up too! Keep up the great work.... you're one of the best!
@@LoveMTB I broke mine when I first changed the pads and retracted the pistons on the rear brake the length of hose and amount of oil plays a role :( Out of the factory basically, so better safe than sorry I guess :) And keep up the good work, definitely one of the best MTB tech channels around!
If this works then all good but I think the best way to bleed any MTB brake caliper is by putting the bleed nipple up and basically from there you can gravity bleed it or do the off/on then open/close the nipple. Basically how you bleed a car brakes. Only takes 10 mins and if you dont have any bleed blocks just leave the brake pads installed and sandwich a rotor disc in it and do the on/off bleed.
I like the paperclip and ziplock bag idea. And filing off the wings, smart! ...I never knew why my block wouldn't fit in...I would just put it in sideways and tape it in place.
I find soaking string with alcohol and doing the flossing method around the pistons works good to clean them . And put the fill cup in with fluid then move the pistons in and out and clean , this helps make it easier and less chance of of hurting the bladder system in the lever .
I prefer using 2 50ml Syringes, I just adapt that circular yellow Shimano thingy with a tube on the reservoir, its thread fits snug. Push & pull till all air bubbles are in the reservoir.
@@LoveMTB Well, it was very noticeable to me and I watch most of your Videos....so I think the investment has been well worth it as the quality is VERY GOOD.
One more thing… reinstall the wheel with the new pads after you cleaned the caliper, keeping the cup attached to the lever and flick the lever to readjust the new pads to the rotor and take up any space while drawing more fluid from the cup, then remove the cup and reinstall the screw. this will allow you to pump the brake with the new rotors or pads and not have any void in the break fluid if you were to remove the cup first, then pump the break to readjust your pistons and pads. Hope that makes sense.
Very well explained, thanks! I will be trying my first bleeding and I'm happy to have found this video. What's the use of a syringe, which is contained in some bleeding kits? Is it useful for any particular reason?
Thanks. Syringe is particularly useful if you replace a caliper for instance. There’s no oil in them and syringes make it a lot easier to fill up the system with oil. Pushing from the caliper
Hi .Cleaned the brake pads with Sand paper yesterday, sprayed on the pads disc brake cleaner (soudal) let it dry sanded again ,sprayed on again until its clean. Put them back and still soo noisy when I pull the brakes 😢 . I will do the gravity brake bleed today, clean the pads again and will use just soapy water to clean them. (What can be wrong if I use a disc brake cleaner?) Brakes are M8000 XT , Thanks!
I sometimes struggle with a gravity bleed on the rear brake, like the lever just won't firm up afterwards. I'd love to figure this one out, happened on two bikes so it must be me 🤣
Another awesome video my friend!!! I bought the park tool hydraulic bleed kit which has all the adapters that allow the funnel to be screwed to magura ( and many others) bleed port screws,as far as I know shimano are the only ones to make a funnel and no 2 companys use the same tread pitch and size bleed port screw Cheers
@@LoveMTB I looked at the park tool dot fluid kit and it says sram adapter is a m5x0.8 and in the mineral oil kit it has a m5x0.8,I don't have any sram brakes to try it on(: but the mineral kit lists 2 m5x0.8 adapters but they are not the same size just by looking at them so I give up lol...I just cross referenced the part #'s from pt dot and pt mineral kits and there not the same but here's the dot fluid part #'s for the adapters sram-2618a,sram bleeding edge-2612a...I checked to see if pt adapters fit the shimano funnel for flat bars-tl-br003 and they do so I would assume the pt dot adapters would also work...Hope this helps!!!!
Great tutorial thx, one of the best i have seen before i will do my first bleed. Buy front break on the right side? Hope i never get to ride this bike ;)
I really enjoy your videos. Very informative. Do you think you could do a review on the new SRAM DB8 brakes? They are a new SRAM model - the first model SRAM makes that uses mineral oil.
Just did it folowing your steps, easy peasy! Thank you. Just one question, I have the M7000 SLX brakes. I bled the back ones for now since they were bought used. Some black liquid came out which was expected. Changed the pads as well for good measure but I feel the biting point is changed. Do I need to adjust that screw in the piston lever that has 2 holes on it? Thank you
Enjoy your newly bled brakes? I can be normal to feel the brakes differently. And I don't know what adjustment youre referring to? SLX has a knob to adjust reach😉
@@LoveMTB Hi again. Thank you! I redid the bleed, just tilted the front of the bike more and I just had some extra air trapped. Now it's firm and all good. 🚀 Yeah, referring to those side screws with 2 holes in them. But no need anymore. And yes the reach adjustment is very handy 😁
Great vid! Question tho, shouldn't we unscrew bleed bolt on lever when pushing pistons back in ?? I heard if not the pressure can damage the lever....🤷
You can do that after installing the funnel. If the system is overfilled with oil it could otentially damage the bladder. If the system was filled properly to begin with there is no reason to worry, you just reset the pads to the initial state (fresh bleed position/ oil volume in the lever)
I've followed your instructions to the letter twice now on a brand new rear SLX brake... and the lever is still super squishy. 😫 Lucky number three tonight?
Very useful video, as always. My bike was in a crash and on of the brakes (the whole thing, not just the lever) is cracked. I have a new one to replace it, but i wonder if there is anything i need to know before i replace it and do a bleed...
My bleed nipples just leak all the fluid out when I brake after bleeding. Exact same issue in both front and rear. Very frustrating. Yes of course I tightened the nut again..
I would not push the pistons back until you have opened the system at the top. May apply more with SRAM. This is of course if I am bleeding after cleaning. Why spike the pressure in the system if not required?
Great video very informative and clear instruction.. what sort of detergent do you use for cleaning and what size is the tubing for the bleed.. many thanks from the U.K. 👍🏻
Great video as always. This one is a keeper easiest brake maintenance, and bleed I have seen so far. Could this method be used to fill a new system.The marking of the pads L/R good idea I wish I had done this trust me. What do you recommend for removing scrapes or marks on the disc? Would the 120 grit sandpaper work. As always thanks
@@LoveMTB you could additionally bleed your lever Before changing the break pads and when you push the pistons you can damage membrane because of oil excess in the system
I think you omitted a couple of important steps. If someone bleeds like this, you run the risk of leaving air bubbles both at the caliper near the bleeding port, in the caliper, and at the lever. Without a syringe in the bottom, and using pressure, it is quite a hit and miss if your system has bubbles or not. Also, get a brake tool, instead of using a screwdriver. And, you didn't adjust / screw out two revolutions the screw for the lever reach before bleeding, inviting for errors.
Hi buddy,,I’ve just got my bike out the shed and the back brake has no pressure in it,,do I just do this as normal and fill it up,,I’ve never done this👍
I have a basic question. The brake fluid tank being attached to handle is always higher than the caliper either with respect to front or rear. Then why do we need to mount the bike on a stand and tilt it even higher? Cant we do the same thing with the bike standing with the help of a side stand.
Can you use this method on the Clarks M2 Disc Brakes....... looks very similar with the bleed screww at the lever, where you use the shimano funnel.... is it possible ?
Best DYI video repaired I've seen. Congrats! Focused, clear, short, enough details
Merci Serban!
I work at a bike shop and we have been using this method for years. Some old krumuden type showed me one day and I've done it like this since. At the shop we have an old isopropyl bottle with a spoke bent around it in a hook that holds the bottle and attaches to the frame at the same time. I also will pump the lever with the caliper port closed to get the last bit of air out. Then while holding the lever slightly crack the bleed port open and then shut it. This will push any remaining air out of the caliper. Pump the lever a few more time and you should have a killer bleed. You can repeat these steps if the lever is spongy. Good work by this mechanic a+
@@MrEski22 I agree!. I take my time to flick the lever for a few minutes, until no more air bubbles come out into the reservoir cup.
I think I've bled Shimano brakes a million times and I still can't explain it this well, along with all those excellent tips and tricks. Great instructional video!
Glad it helped!
True..one more thing about reuse of pads.. take out and burn any oil that may be there. I tried brake cleaner and sanding... Burning the oil off is best...😀
The only video I have seen that talks about the importance of cleaning the Pistons👍 gravity feed, the only way to go
Absolutely the best bleeding shimano brakes video
Well done. I think the gravity bleed is the best way to bleed hydraulic brakes. Thanks for such a concise, easy-to-understand "how to" on this!
Thanks for your feedback 👍
Huh. Knew about the qtips but brushes and soapwater... so simple!
We might only get 1 video a week but this channel beats lot of those that have full time editors etc.
Thanks for all the awesome content, I rewatch these weekly just to enjoy some nerdy stuff
That gravity bleed looks the easiest full bleed I saw! Thanks!
It is a wonder that syringe is included in atleast one Shimano bleed kit. Have never seen the use for it. Maybe for some twisty brake lines to get bubbles out
Superb instruction. Concise, clear, well edited, pure information with no BS. I subscribed and liked.
Welcome! 👍
Thank you, I looked at 10+ videos getting frustated but now I feel great, this is EZ
It is easy!😊
I've watched a bunch of brake bleed videos. This was the best by far. Clear and concise. You just saved me a $75
No problem, happy trails!🙂
I have been watching your videos for years now. They were already very good in the beginning but you managed to take it to another level. Congrats. You are one of the best resources for mechanical knowledge on youtube, right up there with Park Tool. Love it and thx for the work.
Glad to help. And thank you!
THANK YOU for the hose specificiation and a tutorial on how to do this without have to spend the bs amount of money the Shimano syringe, hose, retention clip crap costs.. absolute daylight robbery.. Now I just gotta find the hose locally..
Found it! Bled the front and it is amazing - almost zero play on the lever and firm.. the back is another matter - a bunch of air came out initially and I got that away by lifting the hose, but some seems to persist somewhere.. no amount of running fluid through, and even pulling the lever in and opening the bleed port, then closing the port and releasing lever, to pump fluid thru the way I learned to bleed car brakes, has it any more than biting 50% back on the lever stroke and not that firm. I did put new pads on the front - pushed pistons back and bled with a block, while I left the pads in on the rear (!!) - but am thinking it's unlikely that that would make such a difference.. ??..
Wow some great tips I haven’t seen elsewhere. Weather it’s reviews or how to, you always bring a fresh new perspective!
Best video of all about Shimano brake bleeding, watched 20 others before
Excellent demonstration, sir! You manage to cover everything thoroughly, while keeping it simple! New subscriber!
Glad to help and welcome!🤘
Thanks. Short and clean explanation on how to deal with sticky pistons.
You’re welcome
awesome video, I'll send it to my dealer workshop
😊😊
Thanks for the video. This is like I used to do my hope brakes. Much more simple than shimano's suggested procedure.
Thanks! That was my goal
@@LoveMTB had a go yesterday and worked a treat. 👍👍
@@davidmcconnon2800 enjoy your fresh brakes!
Спасибо большое, очень хорошее и полезное видео по прокачке тормозов. Субтитры очень хорошие и ваше произношение тоже, мне все было понятно.
Some great learning points there even though I've been doing this for years. Especially interesting is the gravity feed of brake fluid as I've been putting it in with a syringe from caliper side but always get air bubbles. I will try your method next time. Thanks
Brilliant, Thank you for keeping it simple.
Thank you for the feedback!
The only tutorial that gave me the confidence to do it on my own! Thank you!
@@LoveMTB Will do! I have the M7000 SLX ones. Just need to get the bleed parts. 👍
Clear and simple explanation! Love it thanks.
Thank you for your generosity and expertise.
You’re welcome
I tried it once and results for me were piss poor. I get very good results with syringe pushing from the bottom, adjusting the bike in a stand for most vertical hose position, removing caliper for better angles to clear bubbles from caliper and tapping hose a lot, from the bottom all the way to the top as much as I can with some hose in the frame. Once I'm done with caliper and hose, I also adjust the bar left and right and rotate the lever body to get rid of the air from there properly. It's no quick bleed but brakes are sharp after that.
Also servo wave free levers let me feel the effect so much clearer, than when I had servo wave.
I loved the paper clip and bag idea. Thanks.
Excellent video presentation but it didn't work for me. My old caliper had leaked most of my hydraulic fluid. The hydrostatic pressure with a simple gravity bleed was inadequate to overcome the airlocks in my line, through the tiny orifice in the Shimano cup. Adding a syringe worked like a charm.
For that kind of situation - caliper empty - syringe i the only option. In this vid I tried to simplify it as it applies to 80-90% of the situations. Enjoy your fresh brakes!
Great job!! I love the trimming of the bleed blocks wings so it goes in from the top.... genius! I only have one step that I do different, and that is to open the lever and install the bleed cup with a little bit of fluid before pushing the caliper pistons back into their bores. That way the fluid has somewhere to go and you won't risk tearing the delicate diaphragm in the lever. Cheers!!
@@LoveMTB Oh man, I'm down to 1 day a week at best for the last few weeks and our trails are absolutely hammered with so many 12" deep ruts down our steep chutes. Our dirt doesn't handle rain well to say the least! But the bike is clean, maintained and I've got some YT content stored up too! Keep up the great work.... you're one of the best!
Good Video! Shiimano brakes are amazing in how easy it is to service them at home and quickly.
Yes they are!
Usually I use syringe to push oil from bottom to top, next time I'll try your way :)
Easier!🙂 let me know how you like this. Siringe is faster though.😉
Good tip for pushing pistons in is to put the bleeding cup on the caliper to allow the fluid somewhere to go
Yep, not mentioned in the manual, but always mount the cup on the lever, otherwise you risk breaking the lever membrane.
@@LoveMTB I broke mine when I first changed the pads and retracted the pistons on the rear brake the length of hose and amount of oil plays a role :( Out of the factory basically, so better safe than sorry I guess :)
And keep up the good work, definitely one of the best MTB tech channels around!
You mean put the cup on the lever?
If this works then all good but I think the best way to bleed any MTB brake caliper is by putting the bleed nipple up and basically from there you can gravity bleed it or do the off/on then open/close the nipple. Basically how you bleed a car brakes. Only takes 10 mins and if you dont have any bleed blocks just leave the brake pads installed and sandwich a rotor disc in it and do the on/off bleed.
And if you do that you 💯overfill the brakes!😊 otherwise this is exactly how you bleed a car brake isn’t it?
Thank you! Your videos are the easiest to understand. Keep them coming
Love your work! Always very helpful and easy to understand! Keep goin' and all the best from germany! God bless
Glad to help Matthias!
I like the paperclip and ziplock bag idea. And filing off the wings, smart! ...I never knew why my block wouldn't fit in...I would just put it in sideways and tape it in place.
Awesome video. So helpful.
Amazing instructions! Thank u so much! 👍 from 🇸🇪
Great video! Best one I have ever seen on this procedure!
I find soaking string with alcohol and doing the flossing method around the pistons works good to clean them . And put the fill cup in with fluid then move the pistons in and out and clean , this helps make it easier and less chance of of hurting the bladder system in the lever .
Indeed, opening the lever first is the safest way to work on the brakes/ pistons.
Clear, Concise, Professional: Thank You!
Nice work, very clear and simple.
I prefer using 2 50ml Syringes, I just adapt that circular yellow Shimano thingy with a tube on the reservoir, its thread fits snug. Push & pull till all air bubbles are in the reservoir.
Great video....very helpful! You've really stepped up the quality of your edits and films...keep up the good work.
@@LoveMTB Well, it was very noticeable to me and I watch most of your Videos....so I think the investment has been well worth it as the quality is VERY GOOD.
Excellent, I also downloaded this..😁
So helpful. Thank you.
It's Randy Couture thanks for the tip!
Great vid!! As always!
@@alvindiazmarquez Glad to help
One more thing… reinstall the wheel with the new pads after you cleaned the caliper, keeping the cup attached to the lever and flick the lever to readjust the new pads to the rotor and take up any space while drawing more fluid from the cup, then remove the cup and reinstall the screw. this will allow you to pump the brake with the new rotors or pads and not have any void in the break fluid if you were to remove the cup first, then pump the break to readjust your pistons and pads. Hope that makes sense.
Very well explained, thanks! I will be trying my first bleeding and I'm happy to have found this video. What's the use of a syringe, which is contained in some bleeding kits? Is it useful for any particular reason?
Thanks. Syringe is particularly useful if you replace a caliper for instance. There’s no oil in them and syringes make it a lot easier to fill up the system with oil. Pushing from the caliper
Cheers for this, i use the syringe at the calliper method which works fine, but this seems easier and quicker will try it out this way next time
Well done and thx!
Great video - very straightforward and helpful!
Glad to help
Top quality instruction.
Hi .Cleaned the brake pads with Sand paper yesterday, sprayed on the pads disc brake cleaner (soudal) let it dry sanded again ,sprayed on again until its clean. Put them back and still soo noisy when I pull the brakes 😢 . I will do the gravity brake bleed today, clean the pads again and will use just soapy water to clean them. (What can be wrong if I use a disc brake cleaner?) Brakes are M8000 XT , Thanks!
Very useful!!!!
This was simple and worked great! Why do so many kits and instructions have such a very complicated procedure with syringes, etc?!
excellent tutorial as usual. gives me the confidence to try it myself now. thank you!
Excellent video. Easy and simple to understand. Thanks
Excellent video
Glad you liked it 🤘
Sanding brake pads ... classic XD I saw my uncle with a car brake pads so i started doing it with my bikes
Как приятно посмотреть хорошее видео. Не смотря на то, что ты про это уже знаешь...)))) Спасибо!
I sometimes struggle with a gravity bleed on the rear brake, like the lever just won't firm up afterwards.
I'd love to figure this one out, happened on two bikes so it must be me 🤣
Thnx for your information video. Awsome
You're welcome
Very good Video and some great Tipps to make it simple and easy! Thanks for that!
Another awesome video my friend!!! I bought the park tool hydraulic bleed kit which has all the adapters that allow the funnel to be screwed to magura ( and many others) bleed port screws,as far as I know shimano are the only ones to make a funnel and no 2 companys use the same tread pitch and size bleed port screw Cheers
ps opps forgot to mention I think you can buy the adapters from park tool individually
@@LoveMTB I looked at the park tool dot fluid kit and it says sram adapter is a m5x0.8 and in the mineral oil kit it has a m5x0.8,I don't have any sram brakes to try it on(: but the mineral kit lists 2 m5x0.8 adapters but they are not the same size just by looking at them so I give up lol...I just cross referenced the part #'s from pt dot and pt mineral kits and there not the same but here's the dot fluid part #'s for the adapters sram-2618a,sram bleeding edge-2612a...I checked to see if pt adapters fit the shimano funnel for flat bars-tl-br003 and they do so I would assume the pt dot adapters would also work...Hope this helps!!!!
Great tutorial thx, one of the best i have seen before i will do my first bleed. Buy front break on the right side? Hope i never get to ride this bike ;)
It’s European/ Moto style. The way all brakes should be!?🤓
Nice easy process, thanks for a great video/content.
I really enjoy your videos. Very informative. Do you think you could do a review on the new SRAM DB8 brakes? They are a new SRAM model - the first model SRAM makes that uses mineral oil.
Possibly! Just have to get my hands on them
Just did it folowing your steps, easy peasy! Thank you.
Just one question, I have the M7000 SLX brakes. I bled the back ones for now since they were bought used. Some black liquid came out which was expected.
Changed the pads as well for good measure but I feel the biting point is changed. Do I need to adjust that screw in the piston lever that has 2 holes on it? Thank you
Enjoy your newly bled brakes? I can be normal to feel the brakes differently. And I don't know what adjustment youre referring to? SLX has a knob to adjust reach😉
@@LoveMTB Hi again. Thank you! I redid the bleed, just tilted the front of the bike more and I just had some extra air trapped. Now it's firm and all good. 🚀
Yeah, referring to those side screws with 2 holes in them. But no need anymore. And yes the reach adjustment is very handy 😁
You got to the bottom of it, and that's all that matters. Enjoy!@@Glob3Tech
Very useful and well presented Video. Thanks for providing Quality content.
Great video 👍
Thanks 👍
Great vid! Question tho, shouldn't we unscrew bleed bolt on lever when pushing pistons back in ?? I heard if not the pressure can damage the lever....🤷
You can do that after installing the funnel. If the system is overfilled with oil it could otentially damage the bladder. If the system was filled properly to begin with there is no reason to worry, you just reset the pads to the initial state (fresh bleed position/ oil volume in the lever)
@@LoveMTB makes sense 👍🏼 TY!
I've followed your instructions to the letter twice now on a brand new rear SLX brake... and the lever is still super squishy. 😫
Lucky number three tonight?
Great video! Very well explained, just like all your videos.
Very useful video, as always. My bike was in a crash and on of the brakes (the whole thing, not just the lever) is cracked. I have a new one to replace it, but i wonder if there is anything i need to know before i replace it and do a bleed...
High quality video and job. Congrats
My bleed nipples just leak all the fluid out when I brake after bleeding. Exact same issue in both front and rear. Very frustrating. Yes of course I tightened the nut again..
I would not push the pistons back until you have opened the system at the top. May apply more with SRAM. This is of course if I am bleeding after cleaning. Why spike the pressure in the system if not required?
Great video. I feel that I could do it now, too.
Good tips
Great video very informative and clear instruction.. what sort of detergent do you use for cleaning and what size is the tubing for the bleed.. many thanks from the U.K. 👍🏻
Muchas gracias por la explicación. 👍👍👍👍👍😀😀😀😀
Very informative like always
Great video as always. This one is a keeper easiest brake maintenance, and bleed I have seen so far. Could this method be used to fill a new system.The marking of the pads L/R good idea I wish I had done this trust me. What do you recommend for removing scrapes or marks on the disc? Would the 120 grit sandpaper work. As always thanks
cool video, tnx
No worries 😎
Lo del papel de lija da muy buen resultado
Toppp! I like this vídeos! Congratulations!
4:56 BEFORE pushing pistons OPEN bleedport on the handle!!
@@LoveMTB you could additionally bleed your lever Before changing the break pads and when you push the pistons you can damage membrane because of oil excess in the system
I think you omitted a couple of important steps. If someone bleeds like this, you run the risk of leaving air bubbles both at the caliper near the bleeding port, in the caliper, and at the lever. Without a syringe in the bottom, and using pressure, it is quite a hit and miss if your system has bubbles or not. Also, get a brake tool, instead of using a screwdriver. And, you didn't adjust / screw out two revolutions the screw for the lever reach before bleeding, inviting for errors.
Hi buddy,,I’ve just got my bike out the shed and the back brake has no pressure in it,,do I just do this as normal and fill it up,,I’ve never done this👍
Merci pour cette video.
Love your videos
Great video, thank you.
I have a basic question. The brake fluid tank being attached to handle is always higher than the caliper either with respect to front or rear. Then why do we need to mount the bike on a stand and tilt it even higher? Cant we do the same thing with the bike standing with the help of a side stand.
@@swananddeo8406 most times rear hose dips down then back up if on the ground no?
@@LoveMTB Sir, Thank you for your response. Can you please explain a bit simpler, as I could not understand it.
Great stuff!
Missing a video for the back breaks 😉
Ok.... :)
Great video! Love your content and thorough explanations. However, your brakes are backwards. 😜
Greta video My man!!
Can you use this method on the Clarks M2 Disc Brakes....... looks very similar with the bleed screww at the lever, where you use the shimano funnel.... is it possible ?
Most probably yes, people use this method for cars!
good vid bro ... confirms everything i do ... learnt nothing and agree with everything you said ... couldn't have explained better ... good job!
How do you suggest cleaning the funnel with after the bleed is done?
I use the blue paper towel that leaves no residue and put the funnel in a bag so it don’t collect dust till next time