Total Cooling Refresh & JHM 6-Rib Pulley Conversion Kit Install | Audi S4 B7 4.2
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- Опубликовано: 15 июл 2024
- I upgrade the harmonic balancer to JHM's lightweight crank pulley along with the rest of the 6 rib belt kit that replaces the alternator pulley and tensioner. On the cooling system I repair the radiator, rebuild the water pump assembly and install new hoses, IABED cast aluminum coolant pipe, replace the coolant temperature sensor, expansion tank and windshield washer fluid tank.
Chapters:
00:00 - Install summary
01:29 - JHM crank pulley install
06:07 - Water pump rebuild & install
13:17 - Cooling system upgrades
28:03 - JHM 6-rib alternator pulley kit 
Авто/Мото
The old, “while I’m in there,” can make any three week project become 3 months very quickly; been there before! Especially if you need to re-research as you find unexpected things or results and then topping it off with waiting on new parts to clear the border. 😉
I do I ordered mine off of eBay all three of them
Found this channel last night and couldn't stop watching. I am doing a restomod on a B6 3.0 A4 convertible and you are answering a lot of my queries despite the different engine. Good stuff.
this is awesome content! I am gutting a b6 s4 to turn into an endurance race car.
Thanks John - Cool project, and I'm sure you've found some of the other B6/7 endurance car builds online already but I think most of them retain the auxiliary radiator, favouring max coolant cooling as possible over the external oil cooling benefits. This is me just assuming you're watching this video for where cooling improvements *could* be made.
Vw/audi uses plastic water pump impellers for a reason. If a metal impeller comes loose it can damage the housing or block. If a metal impeller becomes jammed then it can destroy timing belts or in your case the clockworks that drives your accessories and possibly by extension the timing chains. Some parts are simply not worth saving money on. I always use factory for anything that touches timing
Providing an update for up and coming viewers. This mod has proven (in later years) to NOT be a good modification regarding the JHM 6 rib pulley. The B7 Audi S4 crank is EXTERNALLY balanced hence your stock pulley is required. There is new information that your front bearings will wear horrifically with the JHM 6-rib modification. Each engines harmonic balancer is specifically balanced to each engine. Thus taking an avg 3500 gram pulley and reducing its weight to 700 grams does NOT maintain external balance.
This is NOT to provide ANY negativity toward the Channel. Just providing up-to-date information.
Appreciate the updated info - this is something that's been on my mind for the last year. At this point I don't have the proof to substantiate that the vibration I feel at a specific RPM range to be caused by the lightweight crank pulley but I will be swapping my OE pulleys back on (incl. the alternator) the next time the front is off to verify if that's the source. Likely summer 2024.
@@FigureItAudi I am currently planning the same process. I just got my OEM crank and alternator pulley cleaned and paint refreshed. Waiting on the OEM idler pulley and I will be putting it back to stock spec. I too have felt some random vibration (almost like multiple misfires) at low rpm and always wondered what it was.
Awesome work
For your raiders, all three of them you can upgrade them if you go onto my page I posted a video where I got them from. I don’t remember the exact part number been on a long time year since I replaced them to solid aluminum and I got all three of them I think for less than $700 at the time2020. I think it’s on my page.
Amazing videos
You are a very patient man. :)
Dielectric grease on the o rings or anything rubber is what the professional technicians use.
Brilliant…:) 🥂
Nice, that is a really nice layout of the JHM kit. I didn't realize that the OEM system didn't have an auto tensioner. I might add that to my list when I finally fix my oil cooler leak.
nice video well explained, been meaning to do pulley upgrade for my s6 v10 but always worried how it might effect the engine in the long run. have you had any issues are you stil own the car? love that silver gray color.
I do I found all three gators for just over seven Carnales after tax and everything else I think we’re at US$800 or just under it’s been a while since I’ve bottle tham
Great video! How different is this S4 pulley conversion compared to the RS4? Looks very similar.
Depending on what you mean...the removal and installation of the parts is exactly the same. In terms of the pulleys though, there's actually a pretty significance difference in that the S4 rotating assembly isn't factory balanced and therefore each S4's crank pulley is machined to counter balance the off-center rotating masses. In comparison, the RS4 engine IS balanced, which is why the JHM crank pulley is simply a lighter version of the OE pulley (flat faced, no pockets machined, no nothing about counter balance).
Hey Steve. I reached out to you a few weeks ago via Instagram and your input has helped tremendously with fixing my oil leak from the oil cooler. I've developed a coolant leak which I'm pretty certain is coming from the big fat black o-ring behind that attaches the water pump to the engine block. You show it at 12:07 in the video with the blue oil ring for the drive shaft. Do you know the part number for that big black coolant o-ring as well as the blue oil ring gasket? I have the same S4 B7 except not the 25th Anniversary edition. Again thanks for your awesome videos and how well you present the information.
Hi Michael - This site will be your friend for all projects: www.ilcats.ru/audi/?function=getParts&market=USA&model=A4Q&modelcode=249&year=2004&group=1&subgroup=121&part=121020&pid=3181&language=en
When I removed my idler pulley the threaded part stayed on the engine, how do I remove it?
Where did you find that aluminum hose fitting? I know you said it but kinda hard to understand. Good work thank you
From memory I believe you're talking about the iABED industries coolant pipe. I got it from either ECS tuning or FCP Euro, one of the two.
Yes that’s it thank you.
how much did you torque the bolts up to?
My Drive shaft went all the way in but I cannot for the life of my get my waterpumps hex flange to align perfectly with it . I’ve turned the impeller of water pump to try to get a perfect fit but can’t . I’ve also used silicon spray on both gaskets . Do you have any tips ?
It's been awhile since I did mine - and it's simply a finicky pain in the ass. You're likely doing everything right and it's just off by a small margin. You'll get it.
@@FigureItAudi thanks for the support.
When I bought my ass for the left radiator was cracked really bad and it was leaking and so I put silicone or something on it to keep it from leaking, which was not right to do. The left didn’t have no problems driver side the front radiator basically who had the car before I got it Had the car very very low to the ground. I had to raise the whole car up about 4 inches or 3 inches off the ground cause they didn’t know how to use a suspension that they installed the car manufacturer and everything else for the suspension to get the proper numbers to put the car at the proper height, I need all around and do a bunch of measurements the whole time, probably
u keep doing what cha doing bud, dont let ppl commment otherwise. every car knows u cant just throw parts on and expect it to run smooth being a 15 yr old car. if ur smart u would make sure theres zero leaks before u get into power mods. u dont wana make power than find u got oil leaks and coolant leaks every where.. then gotta pull everything off again.
bud.. theres something i cant recommend enuff. which is.. go out and get yourself either a milwaukee or makita high torque impact wrench drill.. the over 1800lb ft type. no bolt will hold u back and u will find it does speed up the process. u can zip off a bolt rather than ratchet wrench a bolt faster which will give u time on other things.
Amazing videos