Hey Brian..to avoid blistering when re applying a primer over meta break through..is etch the go to? I've had reaction with epoxy and or urethane primers in the past but never tried etch...maybe I'm not applying dry enough? I don't know ..any advice helps. Thanks for your Chanel its the best and your a great teacher
Hey FYI to anyone who is going to do this, warm up the spray cans in a bucket of hot water before spraying. It will improve atomization dramatically and leave a significantly smoother finish, even in a warm climate. I mainly recommend this with basecoat because warming up the clear will reduce your orange peel but increase chances of runs due to it being thinner. -NS
I have been in the panel and paint industry here in Australia for over 40 years and your instructions and teaching methods are excellent. Don’t forget you need to shake the can until it stops rattling Keep up the good work
@@CLPATTERSON a HOOD is not a smaller area, a ROOF is not a smaller area.....a whole DOOR is not a smaller area...... were you perhaps... spraying toddler cars for over 25 years?
$20 dollars worth of paint, $1000 worth of prep (labor) . This video really highlights the importance of prep to a paint job, Not just before, but during and even after!
its a lot more than 20 bux. the paint hes using is duplicolor its 20 dollars a can and the 2k clear is 25 dollars and i dont want to imagine how much those 3m buffing pads and creams cost. a lot more than most people are going to spend, for 600 dollars you can get maaco to do it.
I used to work in a body shop. Prep is the key. And black is the hardest color to paint. It's like a mirror. And don't fuck up and burn through an edge with the buffer. You're going to have to repaint it all again
After searching for days for a fuss free, not too technical explanation to respray an area of my car wing after my garage door banged into it in high wind, I found this. THANK YOU for a great, easy to follow tutorial. My wing is now resprayed and looks great! You are the man, your calm, easy to follow steps are what every DIY guy needs! 😊
I am total rookie as far as painting a car. You explain things very well. I appreciate you spending time explaining the different products you use. A person can easily waste money on things we ""think we might need"". In reality, we don't. I wish I had watched this before I did a few projects in the past. THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR KNOWLEDGE.
Wow! Now this is perfect. Products that are easily available for anyone to purchase. Explained with no B.S. No bragging or ego. Just gives you the confidence and the knowledge you need to get a fantastic job that will save you a shit load of money.
I like the way you tell the people they can do it too and not making it sound like something to be scared of, definitely liked and subscribed to your channel.
I wanted this guy to know that I followed all of his steps to paint my VW wing mirror cap and it turned out better than the factory job on the other side of the car. The clear-coat was absolutely amazing. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
@@Landscapesbygareth factory paint is done by machines, it's not wetsanded and buffed afterwards, there's even orange peel in it, it's pretty easy to outdo a factory paint job
That absolutely can be done if you know what your doing...it's just a pain in the ass using rattle cans vs a paint gun....but for small sections or spot repairs, rattle cans work great.
You have the right approach and attitude with competent instruction without the fluff. You earn an A+ from me because I have spent thousands of hours in classrooms with many dozens of teachers in the last 55 years. Thank you for this awesome instructional video.
This may be my favorite diy car painting video. I have touched up cars I've owned 20 years. But I followed your recommendations and yesterday completed my repair and it's the best I've ever done. Factory quality. That 2k clear is a game changer. You explain why you do and show when things don't go as planned. You make me want to paint cars. Thank you.
Repairing the arches on a 23yr old VW T4 van and just done my first paint job after watching this - all good and appreciate the straightforward instructions. Its def all about the confidence!
Absolutely awesome, have admired this car for years but only from pictures. I had no idea just how much work had gone into it, Mike you are one clever guy.
I know that anybody who has done a decent amount of rattle can paint knows how massively cool these videos are. I wish I would have had all this info from these videos 20 years ago. As ALWAYS, great job!!! I love these videos!
Im so glad I found this channel, I have a 06 sebring (4banger) I need to do some painting to. My front bumper cover, the same side 1/4 panel as you did on this car in this video and the parts which are the worst; my rocker panels. They are rusted and broken away so I more than likely need to replace them before painting. Hoepfully by the grace of the big man in the clouds I can find a junk sebring color matched and grab them off one at the junk yard for the low.
Thank you so much, I’ve learnt a lot from this video and I am just a keen home enthusiast over in the UK that often gets requests from family to do little jobs for them as well. Stay healthy and blessed Brian. 👍🇬🇧
I can’t believe that’s a rattle can finish, amazing. Thanks for all the great videos keep them coming we really appreciate them and we’re learning a lot
Primer, paint, sealer, sand paper, buffer, plastic comes to $100.00, plus labor . . . if you don't know what you're doing, and because you're inexperienced, figure the better part of a day.
I would like to take 2 minutes to thank you my friend. This video helped me a lot to paint different parts of my Infiniti G37s with can paint with great results ! Phil (Montreal CAN)
I painted my son's computer with automotive paint. The guy at the store was awesome. I'm a house Painter by trade. Although, I think the computer looks like a car finish, I wish that I would have seen your videos. You are very well spoken and I am so glad that I found you. Thank you!
This guy is a skilled painter, no doubt about that. More importantly he is great human being, very compassionate one. Don't worry, it is just paint !! Great dialogue !! Thanks Boss for the help with these videos, you are greatly appreciated. May God bless you.
Great videos Brian, and your delivery is impeccable. I also love your “matter of fact” axioms sprinkled throughout. “If you get scared of the spray, the car has already won.” Maybe I paraphrased, but awesome. So repainting the hood of my 2006 Dodge Magnum, Brilliant Black Pearl. Quick history: I bought it new, I’ve only hand washed it maybe ten times, all other times through the “touch free” washes, so there are not a lot of swirl marks happening. Also never given it a full tilt wax, compound. I’ve done some panels, the hood maybe once, but not too involved, never the roof, never the tailgate, and only sporadically on the sides/doors, generally when trying to buff out scratches. The point is that the clear coat is(was) still mostly intact, no peeling, no fading, paint in great shape for a paint correction I guess is what you call it. Most of the time I’ve gotten through alright with the touch up pen, then blend/sand it in to disappear. Eh, Looks like shit. There are multiple reasons I’ve decided to do cosmetic work on my wagon, but another time. Beating Chrysler with my Lifetime Bumper to Bumper Warranty is the main reason. Gotta keep it worth as much as possible. Plus I love it very much and while I do baby the cars paint and upholstery, it is also a work wagon/production vehicle, yet amazingly in great shape. So the hood had no dents, one deep chip I guess you’d call a ding, dead center to the primer, and various pebble chips from, ummmmm, high speed impacts with very small things. Well I’ve all but ruined the hood. Couldn’t get the tape lines to disappear, way too thick with both paint and clear coat, so had to sand all of that back down, low on budget about now, ran out of sandpaper, was cleaning it and reusing it, scuff pads, you name it, and the old paint was coming off like dried hard gum, packing every sheet or device within moments. I got impatient and used my rasp plane to get a lot of the old paint off, and with it went a lot of the factory paint, and a few gouges happened too. Needless to say, I sanded the hell out of that metal to get it smooth again, but the 80 grit I had laying around dug in pretty badly, and they are persistent bastards, dozens of little crescent moon scratches into the metal, which by the way is incredibly light, my whole hood might weigh five pounds. Well now it’s lighter because I sanded so damn much. Anyway, got happy with it, used the Duplicolor Grey high build primer, over and over, with nice long hour plus dry times, maybe 55% humidity, and about 70 degrees in the garage here up the road in Charleston, SC. With a heater of course, and it helps dry the air too. This time I got five cans of brilliant black Pearl on, and it looked pretty good, but there were the tiger stripes I’ve heard so much about. So I put one last hurrah coat of color on and it all filled in pretty well, but still a bit splotchy. Figured clear coat would fix it. Which it kinda did, on top of helping a couple of splatters that were very, very fine drops. I put one and a half heavy coats on before deciding to stop and sand it back a bit to hopefully get rid of the blemishes and either clear coat over my 1500-2000 wet sanding scuff, or add another can of color and really try to get great coverage since there’s plenty of foundation of color. Problem is that acrylic lacquer has to be applied close enough to hit wet, so getting back enough to prevent stripes allows the droplets to start drying before hitting the surface and results in the well known roughness of dry paint application. Here are the two questions. Should I just wet sand the color coat/clear coat till I’ve eliminated all of the imperfections, which is already 85% there, then go straight to clear coat and let that “even it up”, as the 1500-2000 grit color coat will be uniform, but not shiny wet paint looking. Does that matter? Or should I risk applying another can of color and just stay close but keep moving in short strokes? If I paint it and there are just more stripes and splatters, I’ll have to wet sand again, which is acceptable, but is the new fresh wet shiny paint even necessary? I understand clear coat, especially acrylic lacquer, doesn’t need much of a scuff if any. Also, wouldn’t reducing the temp a bit effectively help to slow the dry time of the lacquer, and maybe help the paint hit the surface wet from a slightly farther distance from the panel. Maybe let it get down to 60 degrees? I’ve bought so many cans of this stuff, it’s unreal. In total for just the hood at least 15 cans. I’ll keep pushing on but I’m ready to lay about a trillion coats of clear in it, with lots of time and/or wet sand/scuff between some coats, which also helps to allow the lower layers to dry(let the solvents evaporate?)better too, right, and then when it’s about 3/4” thick, I’ll stick a fork in it, let it dry for several days before I wet sand and buff it out to a shine, then wait, what maybe two weeks before I wax it? I guess the clear coat dulls over time. Last night the clear coat had been drying for about 36 hours, and it still looked glossy wet and deep. Then I had to sand it back some. That hurt. I’m fine with imperfections, but tiger stripes will drive me bonkers. As if I’m not already. So, will lower ambient temperature help the acrylic lacquer. spray wet and flow out better? And do I need a shiny wet(looking) color coat before I clear it? Holler.
I do not normally comment on many of the videos,I watch.You are a very good teacher!Clear and concise and a very well irounde presentation.I wish you well in your You Tube career and remeber these kind and truthfull words. Doc BC
great video, I painted my car in my garage with spray cans. It came out great (total cost was about $400).. only did a panel at a time. The roof i can not do however I don't think the cans have enough pressure to carry the whole panel. I found heating the can up before spray increased the pressure and atomized the paint better. Obviously it has it's risks but considering the results... worth it. Thanks for the video.
I will be doing my entire 21 year old Corolla. Gonna go from black and rusted, to pink!! I've painted an interior before but an exterior will be a first. Will document and post as I go!!
If you put the 2k clear in the freezer it will last for months after its activated. Just take it out a few hours before use. I have successfully used an activated 2k can of clear from the freezer about 4 months after it was activated.
I'm comfortable with tearing engines out of cars and rebuilding them. I've always been scared of paint and body. After watching this I now WANT TO paint something. Excellent work and an awesome instructor! Subscribed!
This gave me the confidence to paint the entire quarter panel on my focus SVT ZX3. I’m doing it tomorrow in my garage with fans and water on the floor and doors all open. Paint code is UA so should pretty “easy”
I recently purchased an older car that needs some clear coat refurbished and small paint scratches that need repair. Your videos have been the best educational experience thus far. I went to my local body shop and they donated a front fender for me to practice with first. Many thanks!!!!!
Man thanks for your videos they make me confident that I can achieve a great paint job using this method. I have a 1990 Nissan 300zx which is a pretty small car I’m gonna try to paint the entire car like this because it’s disassembled so I can do each panel Separately.
From start to finish, great video - what I exactly needed. I am about to start on the cab roof of my 2006 Ford E-350 Cutaway. A little surface rust, commercial Oxford White paint. Probably use a couple of rattle cans, or, at least a quart of base with my Harbor Freight gravity spray gun and rattle can of clear coat. Small project. Biggest hassle is sanding inside the reinforcement groves on the roof.
Hands down best rattle can panel paint video on YT. I have a panel to do some minor rust repair and repaint and this is going to be my guide. If the clear turns out like his I'll be skipping the buffing. :)
Great video as usual. Having worked with those rattle cans; a good tip is once you finished using flip it over and give it a small spray to empty the tube and prevents cloggking. It works on most of them; but some rattle cans are made to spray in reverse. It is just something I learned as if I don't do that the can is then un-usable. Great video Brian ad you are amazing at explaining. I see that your teaching skills are also shown on the video....
My father used to say , a paint job finish doesn't come out of a can (gallon or spray can ) It's all the PREP work ,and attention to details Great Information you share here Thanks for your efforts and time👍💯😎
An excellent trick that I came across that helps eliminate orange peel, 🎉is putting the can of clearcoat in a small bucket of really hot water, as hot as you can get out of your kitchen sink. I like how you have a garage door and you paint cars in your living room, that’s pretty cool.😂 Seriously, that fender looks great! And making black paint look great is one of the harder colors. Thanks for the video.
Can't be 2k clearcoat in a can because 2k means it's a hardener and paint/laquer mixed together to activate. If it was ready mixed in the can it would already have been activated 🤔🤔
@@PaintSociety Yep... I see that these cans are using a duplex chamber to mix hardener with material. Is it really a good comparison with conventional pot mixed material that is thoroughly mixed prior to application? I would also note the use of respirator used for 2k? Most would specify some kind of air fed system which obviously isn't going to be used by folk at home. I'm not putting the video down.. On the contrary, I found it very useful and informative - I just had a couple of questions. Cheers 👍
This video caused me to subscribe to your channel, purchase similar items, sent hood to p&b shop, attacked the side panel at home as you did. I am exceedingly happy with the results on my 1995 Chevy Silverado which now is the best looking farm truck around. I love it. Thank you!
What's your thoughts on blending with this method? I read somewhere someone suggested using adhesion promoter as a substitute for spraying a blender down as a wet bed for the blend area for metallic paints. I'm curious if you've ever tried blending with the duplicolor paint then using the 2k clear over the whole panel, or if not if you could try it for a video!
I'm really impressed mate. I have followed your procedure and have achieved a perfect finish on my yamaha r6 rear fairing. I've saved an absolute fortune. I was quoted 300 pounds. Cheers mate.
Would 2k hs clear give the same result as what hes using? I noticed it doesnt have the bladder to mix up and dont want to make a huge mistake... my rattle can job is looking pretty decent thanks to this video and dont want to mess it up now
@@mamacito1795 you can definitely get a similar result with high solid clear, but it sprays differently. you'll be able to cut and buff easier than if you were to do the same amount of coats than a thinner clear coat. also, with high solids you'll tend to get orange peel easily. hope that helped!
@@javiendulay7989 that's amazing thank u. I took the plunge and just went with it anyway cos I started so I will finish! Sun up tomorrow will tell me how it went.
Man every video I watch from you, fills in all the gaps of information I need to be able to make my car look good. Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge with the community!
Thanks, really well explained. I think you're actually answering my request, cause I remember asking about removing the hood so the can is held at a better angle. I will be removing my hood to paint it.
How did ya go? I've had some nice results with non metallic paint but even having my tiny cars bonnet against the wall it was really heavy and awkward on my own and with metallic plasti Dip didn't manage to get it stripe free...wondering if the last coat of a metallic base coat could be dusted on to eliminate tiger stripes without leaving it too rough for the clearcoat?
Thanks for showing the names of materials I didn't know anything about it I just see people spraying cars but they fail to teach us about materials we suppose to use. I hope you could always learn from you
Thanks for sharing. Young man that is a great tutorial. I can see you are a pro, but it seems you understand that someone may need to see this just to make the ride more acceptable.
Just watched this and used your tips to get some absolutely superb results painting the plastic door handles on my ‘04 Volvo XC90 body color like the later models! One thing though - I don’t think you mention the time between base coat and clear. I have a bit of experience with marine finishes so I guesstimated an hour or so, but that might be good to clear up in the future!
Thanks so much for taking the time to show how to mask, tape and cut the plastic protection and taping it again. So many others, never share the basic steps they just jump to the video and show the masking already done but not showing how they did it.
To get yourself fit with Paint Society gear head over to:
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Brian, have you got any good tips on how to buff out ghosting from removed decals, especially on orange-red painted surfaces?
Love when you paint with cans
Hey Brian..to avoid blistering when re applying a primer over meta break through..is etch the go to? I've had reaction with epoxy and or urethane primers in the past but never tried etch...maybe I'm not applying dry enough? I don't know ..any advice helps. Thanks for your Chanel its the best and your a great teacher
Go very very light. Water based primer is the best to use because it doesn’t have solvents in it that attack the surface.
L166
Hey FYI to anyone who is going to do this, warm up the spray cans in a bucket of hot water before spraying. It will improve atomization dramatically and leave a significantly smoother finish, even in a warm climate. I mainly recommend this with basecoat because warming up the clear will reduce your orange peel but increase chances of runs due to it being thinner.
-NS
Great tip..thanks
I once used a hairdryer, worked great too!
This works really well actually, just tried it. Also noticed it uses less paint because more paint is sticking before drying mid air.
How hot should the water is?
I did not follow your advice as I just see it now and after the fact! but how does that make sense Bro!
I have been in the panel and paint industry here in Australia for over 40 years and your instructions and teaching methods are excellent.
Don’t forget you need to shake the can until it stops rattling
Keep up the good work
Stops rattling.. oOooppsss I didn't shake it enough..
😂
@@laraib827 How old is it supposed to stop rattling?
I've been rattle canning for 25 years, and this guy teaches me something every time I watch. Thanks a bunch for these videos bro.
really 25 years and you never thought of getting a proper spraying kit???
makes me wonder....
Curious what tips you picked up that you didn't realize yet in your 25 years? Any particular steps you think are more important than others?
@@martinroberts3977 have not had any large enough paint jobs to justify buying a paint gun. All smaller areas.
@@CLPATTERSON a HOOD is not a smaller area, a ROOF is not a smaller area.....a whole DOOR is not a smaller area...... were you perhaps... spraying toddler cars for over 25 years?
$20 dollars worth of paint, $1000 worth of prep (labor) . This video really highlights the importance of prep to a paint job, Not just before, but during and even after!
its a lot more than 20 bux. the paint hes using is duplicolor its 20 dollars a can and the 2k clear is 25 dollars and i dont want to imagine how much those 3m buffing pads and creams cost. a lot more than most people are going to spend, for 600 dollars you can get maaco to do it.
@@Runescape. I stand corrected. the point I was trying to make was that prep is more important than fancy paint.
I used to work in a body shop. Prep is the key. And black is the hardest color to paint. It's like a mirror. And don't fuck up and burn through an edge with the buffer. You're going to have to repaint it all again
@@OUTFXDbruh ima just spray paint fuck allat buffing
The advice on doing 1000 grit sand paper sanding and one final coat before spraying the clear, it absolutely golden
After searching for days for a fuss free, not too technical explanation to respray an area of my car wing after my garage door banged into it in high wind, I found this. THANK YOU for a great, easy to follow tutorial. My wing is now resprayed and looks great! You are the man, your calm, easy to follow steps are what every DIY guy needs! 😊
I am total rookie as far as painting a car. You explain things very well. I appreciate you spending time explaining the different products you use. A person can easily waste money on things we ""think we might need"". In reality, we don't. I wish I had watched this before I did a few projects in the past. THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR KNOWLEDGE.
Wow! Now this is perfect. Products that are easily available for anyone to purchase. Explained with no B.S. No bragging or ego. Just gives you the confidence and the knowledge you need to get a fantastic job that will save you a shit load of money.
I like the way you tell the people they can do it too and not making it sound like something to be scared of, definitely liked and subscribed to your channel.
"Make it look halfway decent"
Understatement of the day right there.
That bug left a mark, .......don't worry, it will buff right out.
Nice job, looks perfect. Except where that bug landed.
@@johnbockelie3899 so what its a home project if u want amazing results go to a paint sprayer and get it dont properly
@@johnbockelie3899 I have almost the same mark, bug probably, right from the factory. Mustang 2017
😮😢
I wanted this guy to know that I followed all of his steps to paint my VW wing mirror cap and it turned out better than the factory job on the other side of the car. The clear-coat was absolutely amazing. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
💯 did not turn out better then paint shop
@@Landscapesbygareth factory paint is done by machines, it's not wetsanded and buffed afterwards, there's even orange peel in it, it's pretty easy to outdo a factory paint job
This guy is so skilled that he could have painted the entire car with a shaker can and it would look like a factory job.
That absolutely can be done if you know what your doing...it's just a pain in the ass using rattle cans vs a paint gun....but for small sections or spot repairs, rattle cans work great.
Feel bad for his finger do
are you 12yo?
@@laupy4104 get a can trigger for finger fatigue
Lol he could paint a car with cans and look way better then some shops....lol
You have the right approach and attitude with competent instruction without the fluff. You earn an A+ from me because I have spent thousands of hours in classrooms with many dozens of teachers in the last 55 years. Thank you for this awesome instructional video.
This may be my favorite diy car painting video. I have touched up cars I've owned 20 years. But I followed your recommendations and yesterday completed my repair and it's the best I've ever done. Factory quality. That 2k clear is a game changer. You explain why you do and show when things don't go as planned. You make me want to paint cars. Thank you.
Repairing the arches on a 23yr old VW T4 van and just done my first paint job after watching this - all good and appreciate the straightforward instructions. Its def all about the confidence!
Wow. Exactly the skills and encouragement the DIY garage painter needs to do a job like this. You are a great painter and teacher. Thanks so much!
Absolutely awesome, have admired this car for years but only from pictures. I had no idea just how much work had gone into it, Mike you are one clever guy.
I know that anybody who has done a decent amount of rattle can paint knows how massively cool these videos are. I wish I would have had all this info from these videos 20 years ago.
As ALWAYS, great job!!! I love these videos!
Im so glad I found this channel, I have a 06 sebring (4banger) I need to do some painting to. My front bumper cover, the same side 1/4 panel as you did on this car in this video and the parts which are the worst; my rocker panels. They are rusted and broken away so I more than likely need to replace them before painting. Hoepfully by the grace of the big man in the clouds I can find a junk sebring color matched and grab them off one at the junk yard for the low.
Thank you so much, I’ve learnt a lot from this video and I am just a keen home enthusiast over in the UK that often gets requests from family to do little jobs for them as well. Stay healthy and blessed Brian. 👍🇬🇧
Thank you Phil!
Brother just the time and effort that you take to help a complete stranger is unheard of these days. Thank you for what you do.
Thank you !!!
I can’t believe that’s a rattle can finish, amazing. Thanks for all the great videos keep them coming we really appreciate them and we’re learning a lot
Needs to be decent pro supplier and good nozzles not the kind you find in Halfords lo, ( uk)
2 k
You speak French?? Because you sure say "we" a lot. Speak for yourself. Unless by "we" you mean you and your transgender boyfriend
@@mattchonnahaf8069Malding.
My paint techniques have got much better since I have watching your RUclips channel. Thanks for all that you do.
“Don’t overthink it. It’s just paint.” Genius. Makes me want to fix the chipping paint on my car.
Do it! I did. It makes you feel good to accomplish something new and save money at the same time.
Don't over think it. The paint is smarter than you are.
Primer, paint, sealer, sand paper, buffer, plastic comes to $100.00, plus labor . . . if you don't know what you're doing, and because you're inexperienced, figure the better part of a day.
@kman right, everytime I get a paint chip I'll just buy a new car 🤦
@k-man sounds like something a dumb junglebunny would say
The way he explains things make it so interesting and easy to grasp, it’s amazing that this teacher is free
Thanks Brian. I am a diyer and I'm glad you showed us it can be done without pro equipment...keeping it real. Thanks again.
Small hint: tape up the edges before you sand the panel so you don’t scratch up the adjacent panels. 😉
Hands down the best DIY car paint vid I've seen!!! Thank you!
I have watched this video at least 10 times before I attempted painting my truck. I really like the clear reasoning and detailed video. Thanks!
Thanks Tony !
Dude, I am forever indebted to you for sharing your expertise and knowledge through your channel, Paint Society. Thank you and God bless!
I would like to take 2 minutes to thank you my friend. This video helped me a lot to paint different parts of my Infiniti G37s with can paint with great results !
Phil (Montreal CAN)
I really hope you know how valuable your videos are! Thank you for taking the time to teach your skills!
I painted my son's computer with automotive paint. The guy at the store was awesome. I'm a house Painter by trade. Although, I think the computer looks like a car finish, I wish that I would have seen your videos. You are very well spoken and I am so glad that I found you. Thank you!
It helps that he is using industrial clear can. But, being a painter myself, the process and steps he guides you through are spot in.
This guy is a skilled painter, no doubt about that. More importantly he is great human being, very compassionate one. Don't worry, it is just paint !! Great dialogue !! Thanks Boss for the help with these videos, you are greatly appreciated. May God bless you.
Thank you for being a team player and the awesome words
I have got to say, for an uncontrolled environment that is a very good skilled paint job .
Your demonstration was on the absolute most difficult color and you did good. Bravo!
great step by step video this is why i watch your explanations of the littlest details makes us all better all around car guys keep up the good work
Great video! Flipping cars on the side once in a while is fun. This is the perfect solution to getting more bang for my buck!!!
Great videos Brian, and your delivery is impeccable. I also love your “matter of fact” axioms sprinkled throughout. “If you get scared of the spray, the car has already won.” Maybe I paraphrased, but awesome. So repainting the hood of my 2006 Dodge Magnum, Brilliant Black Pearl. Quick history: I bought it new, I’ve only hand washed it maybe ten times, all other times through the “touch free” washes, so there are not a lot of swirl marks happening. Also never given it a full tilt wax, compound. I’ve done some panels, the hood maybe once, but not too involved, never the roof, never the tailgate, and only sporadically on the sides/doors, generally when trying to buff out scratches. The point is that the clear coat is(was) still mostly intact, no peeling, no fading, paint in great shape for a paint correction I guess is what you call it. Most of the time I’ve gotten through alright with the touch up pen, then blend/sand it in to disappear. Eh, Looks like shit. There are multiple reasons I’ve decided to do cosmetic work on my wagon, but another time. Beating Chrysler with my Lifetime Bumper to Bumper Warranty is the main reason. Gotta keep it worth as much as possible. Plus I love it very much and while I do baby the cars paint and upholstery, it is also a work wagon/production vehicle, yet amazingly in great shape. So the hood had no dents, one deep chip I guess you’d call a ding, dead center to the primer, and various pebble chips from, ummmmm, high speed impacts with very small things. Well I’ve all but ruined the hood. Couldn’t get the tape lines to disappear, way too thick with both paint and clear coat, so had to sand all of that back down, low on budget about now, ran out of sandpaper, was cleaning it and reusing it, scuff pads, you name it, and the old paint was coming off like dried hard gum, packing every sheet or device within moments. I got impatient and used my rasp plane to get a lot of the old paint off, and with it went a lot of the factory paint, and a few gouges happened too. Needless to say, I sanded the hell out of that metal to get it smooth again, but the 80 grit I had laying around dug in pretty badly, and they are persistent bastards, dozens of little crescent moon scratches into the metal, which by the way is incredibly light, my whole hood might weigh five pounds. Well now it’s lighter because I sanded so damn much. Anyway, got happy with it, used the Duplicolor Grey high build primer, over and over, with nice long hour plus dry times, maybe 55% humidity, and about 70 degrees in the garage here up the road in Charleston, SC. With a heater of course, and it helps dry the air too. This time I got five cans of brilliant black Pearl on, and it looked pretty good, but there were the tiger stripes I’ve heard so much about. So I put one last hurrah coat of color on and it all filled in pretty well, but still a bit splotchy. Figured clear coat would fix it. Which it kinda did, on top of helping a couple of splatters that were very, very fine drops. I put one and a half heavy coats on before deciding to stop and sand it back a bit to hopefully get rid of the blemishes and either clear coat over my 1500-2000 wet sanding scuff, or add another can of color and really try to get great coverage since there’s plenty of foundation of color. Problem is that acrylic lacquer has to be applied close enough to hit wet, so getting back enough to prevent stripes allows the droplets to start drying before hitting the surface and results in the well known roughness of dry paint application. Here are the two questions. Should I just wet sand the color coat/clear coat till I’ve eliminated all of the imperfections, which is already 85% there, then go straight to clear coat and let that “even it up”, as the 1500-2000 grit color coat will be uniform, but not shiny wet paint looking. Does that matter? Or should I risk applying another can of color and just stay close but keep moving in short strokes? If I paint it and there are just more stripes and splatters, I’ll have to wet sand again, which is acceptable, but is the new fresh wet shiny paint even necessary? I understand clear coat, especially acrylic lacquer, doesn’t need much of a scuff if any. Also, wouldn’t reducing the temp a bit effectively help to slow the dry time of the lacquer, and maybe help the paint hit the surface wet from a slightly farther distance from the panel. Maybe let it get down to 60 degrees? I’ve bought so many cans of this stuff, it’s unreal. In total for just the hood at least 15 cans. I’ll keep pushing on but I’m ready to lay about a trillion coats of clear in it, with lots of time and/or wet sand/scuff between some coats, which also helps to allow the lower layers to dry(let the solvents evaporate?)better too, right, and then when it’s about 3/4” thick, I’ll stick a fork in it, let it dry for several days before I wet sand and buff it out to a shine, then wait, what maybe two weeks before I wax it? I guess the clear coat dulls over time. Last night the clear coat had been drying for about 36 hours, and it still looked glossy wet and deep. Then I had to sand it back some. That hurt. I’m fine with imperfections, but tiger stripes will drive me bonkers. As if I’m not already. So, will lower ambient temperature help the acrylic lacquer. spray wet and flow out better? And do I need a shiny wet(looking) color coat before I clear it? Holler.
Can you send me a message on Ig. Paint.society
I would love to help you but I want you to show me pictures of the job first over there.
Thanks for answering my questions during this video, paint compatibility and the paint can angle. And the sanding products.
This is the best spray can paint job video on RUclips. You gave me the confidence to do my entire roof. Love this channel.
Did you do it ?
@@fertexas yeah it came out great
@@trevormartin7148I gotta do a part on my Mini's hatch soon.
Good man. Straight to the point without the extra irritating gas bagging or annoying background jingle. . Thank you very much . **A*A*A*A*A**
That was some good clearcoat, the quality of the clearcoat makes a huge difference.
I do not normally comment on many of the videos,I watch.You are a very good teacher!Clear and concise and a very well irounde presentation.I wish you well in your You Tube career and remeber these kind and truthfull words. Doc BC
Thanks so much for your comment !
great video, I painted my car in my garage with spray cans. It came out great (total cost was about $400).. only did a panel at a time. The roof i can not do however I don't think the cans have enough pressure to carry the whole panel. I found heating the can up before spray increased the pressure and atomized the paint better. Obviously it has it's risks but considering the results... worth it. Thanks for the video.
Very educational video. Teacher that is honest and open. I was going to do a vintage boat motor with spray gun, he changed my mind.
I'll probably never paint a car again, but I really enjoyed watching a skilled craftsman.
Now how to buff the rest of the car.
I will be doing my entire 21 year old Corolla. Gonna go from black and rusted, to pink!! I've painted an interior before but an exterior will be a first. Will document and post as I go!!
This is the best job I've seen so far and detailed. I want to do the fenders on my truck and you've inspired me to do it. Thanks Paint Society!
Absolutely incredible man. I always knew this was possible without breaking the bank but never saw it this good! You have mastered your craft sir.
If you put the 2k clear in the freezer it will last for months after its activated. Just take it out a few hours before use. I have successfully used an activated 2k can of clear from the freezer about 4 months after it was activated.
Interesting. Thanks for the tip. And is there any treatment you need to do before re-using it again?
Would recommend a deep freezer, the colder the better.
I'm comfortable with tearing engines out of cars and rebuilding them. I've always been scared of paint and body. After watching this I now WANT TO paint something. Excellent work and an awesome instructor! Subscribed!
Welcome to the channel!
This gave me the confidence to paint the entire quarter panel on my focus SVT ZX3. I’m doing it tomorrow in my garage with fans and water on the floor and doors all open. Paint code is UA so should pretty “easy”
I recently purchased an older car that needs some clear coat refurbished and small paint scratches that need repair. Your videos have been the best educational experience thus far. I went to my local body shop and they donated a front fender for me to practice with first. Many thanks!!!!!
This man is teaching so much more than how to paint a car.
Man thanks for your videos they make me confident that I can achieve a great paint job using this method. I have a 1990 Nissan 300zx which is a pretty small car I’m gonna try to paint the entire car like this because it’s disassembled so I can do each panel Separately.
Amazing video! Dude, you presented this perfectly so that a novice painter like me can feel confident to tackle some panel work!. Thank you!
Your great multi camera setup, smooth style, real life tips and tricks and deep knowledge are greatly appreciated!
one of the best dyi vids, thank you, you've made me a subscriber.
From start to finish, great video - what I exactly needed. I am about to start on the cab roof of my 2006 Ford E-350 Cutaway. A little surface rust, commercial Oxford White paint. Probably use a couple of rattle cans, or, at least a quart of base with my Harbor Freight gravity spray gun and rattle can of clear coat. Small project. Biggest hassle is sanding inside the reinforcement groves on the roof.
Hey man, I’ve watched alot of your vids and thank you for all you teach. It’s really great to have all the knowledge and know how to do a job right.
Hands down best rattle can panel paint video on YT. I have a panel to do some minor rust repair and repaint and this is going to be my guide. If the clear turns out like his I'll be skipping the buffing. :)
Love this dude he’s so detailed ima do the same to my 2005 Altima but with spraymaxx 2k clear my color is pewter metallic ky2
Beautiful Job! Can't believe this type of result with a spray can and patience. Very cool video!!
Great video as usual. Having worked with those rattle cans; a good tip is once you finished using flip it over and give it a small spray to empty the tube and prevents cloggking. It works on most of them; but some rattle cans are made to spray in reverse. It is just something I learned as if I don't do that the can is then un-usable. Great video Brian ad you are amazing at explaining. I see that your teaching skills are also shown on the video....
Ive used this method a few times now, that 2K clear is MAGIC!
I painted my whole car the same way you did this fender lol ..... It’s possible to do . just take your time
My father used to say , a paint job finish doesn't come out of a can (gallon or spray can ) It's all the PREP work ,and attention to details Great Information you share here Thanks for your efforts and time👍💯😎
So informative and you can see the skill/experience really turn a worn/weathered piece into a gem.
An excellent trick that I came across that helps eliminate orange peel, 🎉is putting the can of clearcoat in a small bucket of really hot water, as hot as you can get out of your kitchen sink.
I like how you have a garage door and you paint cars in your living room, that’s pretty cool.😂 Seriously, that fender looks great! And making black paint look great is one of the harder colors. Thanks for the video.
So basically that 2K clear coat in a can is such a game changer for rattle can jobs
Correct. And it’s crest for headlights. I have done many sets with great results. Eastwood is good and I recently started using the spraymax brand
I don't think you buy them in the UK
Can't be 2k clearcoat in a can because 2k means it's a hardener and paint/laquer mixed together to activate. If it was ready mixed in the can it would already have been activated 🤔🤔
You didn’t watch the video did you?
@@PaintSociety
Yep... I see that these cans are using a duplex chamber to mix hardener with material. Is it really a good comparison with conventional pot mixed material that is thoroughly mixed prior to application?
I would also note the use of respirator used for 2k? Most would specify some kind of air fed system which obviously isn't going to be used by folk at home.
I'm not putting the video down.. On the contrary, I found it very useful and informative - I just had a couple of questions.
Cheers 👍
This video caused me to subscribe to your channel, purchase similar items, sent hood to p&b shop, attacked the side panel at home as you did. I am exceedingly happy with the results on my 1995 Chevy Silverado which now is the best looking farm truck around. I love it. Thank you!
Dam brother that panel looks slick, love the process and the outcome, stay safe brother and god bless ✌
Is there nothing you can’t paint. Just wow and thank you so much for sharing your knowledge
What's your thoughts on blending with this method? I read somewhere someone suggested using adhesion promoter as a substitute for spraying a blender down as a wet bed for the blend area for metallic paints. I'm curious if you've ever tried blending with the duplicolor paint then using the 2k clear over the whole panel, or if not if you could try it for a video!
The game changer is Brian! Very informative, and very detailed.
Loving this series - you really make great paint feel doable by mere mortals. Thanks!
Thanks for this. Im doing a spot repair about 4” on my MDX fender. Bought some primer, base, clear from american touch up in cans.
Thank you for this, you make it so easy, your channel has given me confidence to do such projects and small touch ups.
I'm really impressed mate. I have followed your procedure and have achieved a perfect finish on my yamaha r6 rear fairing. I've saved an absolute fortune. I was quoted 300 pounds. Cheers mate.
The 2k clear available in a rattle can has really changed the quality of the garage paint job.
Changed it big time its huge.
Would 2k hs clear give the same result as what hes using? I noticed it doesnt have the bladder to mix up and dont want to make a huge mistake... my rattle can job is looking pretty decent thanks to this video and dont want to mess it up now
@@mamacito1795 you can definitely get a similar result with high solid clear, but it sprays differently. you'll be able to cut and buff easier than if you were to do the same amount of coats than a thinner clear coat. also, with high solids you'll tend to get orange peel easily. hope that helped!
@@javiendulay7989 that's amazing thank u. I took the plunge and just went with it anyway cos I started so I will finish! Sun up tomorrow will tell me how it went.
@@mamacito1795 How's it look after a week?
Man every video I watch from you, fills in all the gaps of information I need to be able to make my car look good. Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge with the community!
Thanks, really well explained. I think you're actually answering my request, cause I remember asking about removing the hood so the can is held at a better angle. I will be removing my hood to paint it.
How did ya go? I've had some nice results with non metallic paint but even having my tiny cars bonnet against the wall it was really heavy and awkward on my own and with metallic plasti Dip didn't manage to get it stripe free...wondering if the last coat of a metallic base coat could be dusted on to eliminate tiger stripes without leaving it too rough for the clearcoat?
Thanks for showing the names of materials I didn't know anything about it I just see people spraying cars but they fail to teach us about materials we suppose to use.
I hope you could always learn from you
Glad you enjoyed the video!
Thanks for sharing. Young man that is a great tutorial. I can see you are a pro, but it seems you understand that someone may need to see this just to make the ride more acceptable.
He's not a pro......
Thanks for showing me those tips on tapping up the car before painting, great work 👍
Really good video. I’d love to see you do a bumper corner blend.
Really liked his commentary and techniques! Very helpful.
Just watched this and used your tips to get some absolutely superb results painting the plastic door handles on my ‘04 Volvo XC90 body color like the later models!
One thing though - I don’t think you mention the time between base coat and clear. I have a bit of experience with marine finishes so I guesstimated an hour or so, but that might be good to clear up in the future!
Your bad ass💯👍🤙 thanks for the videos brother
Quick question: did you wait a week to sand to let the paint prep? How long would you recommend waiting? Amazing video you earned a sub!
Nice video, thank you! Now I have the confidence to give my fender another shot. I've already sanded off my first attempt 😮
Next episode on the project civic; painting the rims!😎
Paint the damn bumper instead😂
Thanks so much for taking the time to show how to mask, tape and cut the plastic protection and taping it again. So many others, never share the basic steps they just jump to the video and show the masking already done but not showing how they did it.
Wow, if only the rest of the car looked as amazing as that newly painted panel!!
Yeah if you couldn't buff up the rest all of these steps and products could be pretty overkill 😊
Wow ! I am so amazed how you did that
And how you showed to do it , super
Helpful !!! Thank s Love your Videos .
I swear bugs like the smell of paint!
It must be intoxicating, causes them to fly into it. I know, when I'm intoxicated, I tend to fly into the ground.
Especially the clear coat
The trick is to spray a piece of cardboard first, 6 feet away from your car. Trap all the bugs, THEN spray the car.
I know what you mean it's like crack to a junkie lol
I did the same thing to my car back in 2018. It's still holding up in 2021.
Great video. I learn something new about clear coats. Eastwood 2K Clear Coat really works.
Thank you for the video. Very well done.
Man this is an Awesome deal, everything on Amazon love it! I like the Milwaukee cordless it is bomb for sure.