Seriously, bringing out The basketball/paper towels/3d image model and explaining the correct parts to highlight has changed my painting forever! Thank you so much!!
Magenta has a higher luminosity than red. Using it over a blue in the shadows makes a nice violet. Violet has been used in painting to increase the luminosity of shadows making them glowy or hazy since around the time of the impressionists. Monet declared it as the colour of the atmosphere!
Right!? Shadows are just places where our eyes perceive less light, not where there is none. It totally seems like an oxymoron but it's not, both in colour theory and physically. Shadows in say, the corner of a room or on the body aren't necessarily radiant however shadows in clouds and the atmosphere kind of are. This is what Monet was referring to I think. "Radiant" shadows being violet makes sense in terms of the EM spectrum with our eyes picking up red light first, because its quicker has a longer wave lengths and so duration, while the more narrow wave lengths appear darker and deeper as they are more dense and occur in shorter pulses, having less energy. If you think about it we're on a planet inside a star and everything has and is buzzing around with some kind of frequency, even if it isn't measurable by our bodies or by our instruments yet. It totally seems like an oxymoron though I agree! That's why Science and Art combined are a type of magic! @@GarrettPDGA
I’ve been watching your channel since you had about 2k subs and would just like to say how nice it is to see you do a tutorial again. Quality advice as always keep up the good work!
The quick rundown of highlighting on different surfaces was 10/10. That little bit of information often takes some people entire video series to convey.
I like that you show on screen the specific paint you used. There were a few vids in which I like the color you guys were using but had no clue which brand/color it was
I’d like to imagine when each legion gets a new space marine recruit, they just have a huge paint bucket of their legions colour and just dump them inside of it and stick some of their legion merchandise stickers on them and call it a day
I loved following along with this video, though the end result doesn't really look like any ultramarine I've ever seen. Leaning way more space wolf or am I just crazy? Also because of how light they are, the transfers kind of look fairly lame when you throw a white U on a very light blue shoulder. EDIT: Supposedly these are very Grim Dark Ultramarines and that's something I just learned about when I was told that, and the scheme is growing on me quickly.
Love the video, felt like a nice alternative to an easy metal style. The main thing I learned from this was for the delicate highlights, they held the brush much closer to the tip, allowing for better brush control, it seems obvious now but Ive always held the brush in the same place when painting and doing neat white highlights have been really difficult when it's not along an edge. Thanks so much!
In terms of white sprays, GW's new White Scar has a super fine mist so is great for zenithal, gives nice smooth transitions. I've found it better than the Vallejo sprays.
I get a pretty smooth result with corax white if I keep the rattle can 8+ inches away, keep either the mini or the rattle can moving with each spray, and most importantly a very thin mix of paynes gray ink and medium wash to separate the details and blend the transitions a bit. Fast, cheap, and good.
After trying a few different white spray primers over the years, the Fine Primer White spray (#1011) from AK has become my go-to spray - it gets the job done every time.
I've been using the yygywen cordless airbrush that ninjon stumbled on in one of his videos which I got for fidday bucks on amazon along with the badger air primers and I'm never going back to a rattle can. I was shocked how well that little junker mini airbrush works and taking it outside and spraying them on my trash can in the alley has been nice. I tried valejo airbrush primer at first but it kept peeling off the smoother models and like areas where there was a little superglue residue and stuff. the badger air primers ended up bonding where the valejo wouldnt and seems to dry a tiny bit faster as well
11:26 I am very limited in my hobby situation, can't do air brushes or other sprays, so I like it when ol'mate says it's dumb not to use airbrush for the last method😅
And even then not that great. The blue is too light. But yeah the thick blue highlights on the other 2 are just really off-putting to me. They look more basic than number 1. I think if I attempted 2 & 3 it'd just be an even sloppier version. The only thing they have going for them is the skill and neatness of the highlights, even though the style is not great looking. But it's subjective I guess?
@@TCMorrigan yeah subjective style. Not eavy metal nor fill grim dark which is fine. Agree the blue is too light for canon UMs but if just focus on the style/effects it's quite nice. Personally I do the zenithal prime the get a decent size dru brush out and do a single light blue pass for highlights before moving on to details. Gets the job done!
I think lighting is a big factor too. Film lights giving the paint a highlight. Shoulders and helm. Some natural light and shadow on all things but normal room lights not tripod filming lights.
@@TCMorrigan Plenty of UM artwork with the blue being lighter and trending towards Mayan blue. The Ultramarine review comes to mind, with the chaplain going through the ranks.
These are some great techniques. I’ve experimented with slap-chop and found that the standard zenithal (black and white) only really works well with a dark base contrast colour. I tried to use white scar for my Deathwing painting video and basically ended up just basing them again in wraithbone… (I only used white scar as I couldn’t be bothered buying more paint at the time, any one else find white scar a bit grainy? And I heated the can and shook for 4 minutes, still a bit of a grainy finish 🤔)… Also stippling with a brush or sponge like you do in the video is the best way I’ve found to make gradients. For a smooth finish I just do a couple of really light glazes over the top to blend things in a bit more at the end. Love the videos!
ya white scar is a known paint that is just not great too often, the standard zenithal id say is good for all base colors for a light color its also great but i guess ti depends on how much you sprayed white on the black primed mini and how much shadow you want.
The absolute best rattlecan primer I've ever used is Gunze Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500. Its remarkably tolerant to variances in ambient temperature/humidity.
I love that stipping/sponge highlight technique! I'm looking at how to paint snake skin for some Steel Viper 'Mechs for BattleTech, and I think this would work great for that too.
Great examples and straightforward to the subject matter. Like the way you split screen and show detail painting alongside the sponsor material. Otherwise I skip forward.
This is just a helpful video for the technique even if you are not doing ultra marines. I am gonna use a lot of this stuff going into any future armies i start. Specifically the airbrush stuff i am always intimidated to do more with it but these are all amazing ways to speed up some of the more tedious painting steps.
I used to paint when they were lead. Been years and fancied trying it again thank you for your video, much appreciated. Would you recommend getting back in and starting with airbrush from the start again? Salamanders for me. And what do you think of the games workshop paints?
What would be the best method of high lighting the black and white Theme of the Raven Guard for example, since they use Black and White. Would using Grey's and gloss blacks work as highlights without looking forced and look more natural? This will all be done with a brush atm.
Lovely, but quick question, I have an airbrush, is it better to prime with the spray can or use the vallejo primer grey, white and black colors and just use airbrush thinner???
Spray cans tend to have much more durable adhesion, so for metal and resin I much preffer them. That also makes them better for models that you will touch or transport regularly. If its for display then it might be better to go with airbrush primer for thinner coats and more control. Airbrush is also great if you have bad weather and cant prime outside.
@michaeladams1124 that's fair, I do a lot of resin models, but I also tend to use a airbrushed varnish layer as my last step/sometimes after establishing my basecoats/broadshadign with the airbrush, and I find that does plenty well, and I get so much more value out of the airbrushed primers than I would out of a spray can
I noticed you were spray priming outside in the snow, do you find that lower temperatures have much of an effect on the finish? Most people say you'd want something between 60-80 Fahrenheit.
This must be the filler project between the high intensity videos: "Lukas, I am sick of pouring 3000l of resin and building sky-high dioramas. What do we do this week? " -"The same things we always do, when we don't know what to do next Emil - we paint some Space Smurfs!"
I'd like to see you guys do a really cool Horus Heresy army / Display. It would be cool to see all those cool plastic 30k models get the squigmar glow up and diorama
Yeah me to, although I believe that's because they recently created a new version without telling anyone. It was listed as "new" on their website a while ago and might still be.
This video makes you appreciate how underestimating space marines can be. Although the 3 examples are quite decent for table top standard, it goes to show how much time it takes to paint the clean GW look with all the edge highlights. Seeing good painters like yourselves ditching the clean smooth finish in order to get fast results was very consoling😅 I might have another tip to try, Over brushing followed by selective edge highlighting. But we’ll never see such a video on Squidmar as Emil is an open Dry brush hater 😂
The colours here make it look like the imaginary light source is very cold light. Is this the best way to make blue pop? Would be great to see a tutorial on when to change the imaginary colour temperature of light source for different colours. Ie. Always use cold for primary blues, always use warm for primary reds etc.
I’m new to the hobby and have only been painting a couple of months now and admittedly your videos inspired me to get into it - so thank you! When painting SM this way, are you just forgoing unit markings? Or how would you incorporate them using one of these examples?
I never been able to make Vallejo White spray primer work well. I always finish with a grainy texture. When I spray black primer with the same weather conditions it is smooth so it doesn't seem to be a weather issue. Any tips to make it work ?
I tried to use Dark Sea Blue through my airbrush, but it keeps separating into a really light blue and a much darker colour every time I attempt to thin it at all. I've tried airbrush thinner, water, and other mediums and it still does the same. Any recommendations? or do I have a defective batch?
sadly i'm not a blue player :/ do you have the same for other color? or would you have a swatch of multiple color that could be used to follow the same step for the different legion / chapter?
I want to see new ways to paint black armour. Like a Raven Guard. Ravens have that black oil like look up close shimmers of blue purple and green. I don’t want all 3 in one paint scheme but how to do it so that the black isn’t over saturated by blue etc.
Awesome, enjoy! I have only done 2 models so far (both Ultramarines) but spent 20 hours on the first and 12 on the 2nd doing a full eavy metal style. Check out infernal brush "How to paint an Ultramarine" video if you want to do a more clean and pro look. It does take much longer mind you and many more paints.
Emil... Awesome tutorial as usual... But... I want to see your take on The Legion of the Damned... Can that be done? Greetings all the way from Lima, Perú!
Kind sir please tell me as soon as you can if I can still apply the same higlight as you even after I already paintes the details like eyes and shoulders. It is an emergency!
I use the Chinese ones from Ali express made out of weasel and squirrel hair? Not sure about the last one but they are great, better than synthetic and quite cheap, for 10 bucks you get a full set
Seriously, bringing out The basketball/paper towels/3d image model and explaining the correct parts to highlight has changed my painting forever! Thank you so much!!
Magenta has a higher luminosity than red. Using it over a blue in the shadows makes a nice violet. Violet has been used in painting to increase the luminosity of shadows making them glowy or hazy since around the time of the impressionists. Monet declared it as the colour of the atmosphere!
"Luminosity of shadows" is a wonderful oxymoron, song title/band name.
Right!?
Shadows are just places where our eyes perceive less light, not where there is none. It totally seems like an oxymoron but it's not, both in colour theory and physically.
Shadows in say, the corner of a room or on the body aren't necessarily radiant however shadows in clouds and the atmosphere kind of are. This is what Monet was referring to I think. "Radiant" shadows being violet makes sense in terms of the EM spectrum with our eyes picking up red light first, because its quicker has a longer wave lengths and so duration, while the more narrow wave lengths appear darker and deeper as they are more dense and occur in shorter pulses, having less energy. If you think about it we're on a planet inside a star and everything has and is buzzing around with some kind of frequency, even if it isn't measurable by our bodies or by our instruments yet.
It totally seems like an oxymoron though I agree! That's why Science and Art combined are a type of magic!
@@GarrettPDGA
red over blue is not violet it's purple. if you're magenta is already violet then it's violet over red to make violet.
I’ve been watching your channel since you had about 2k subs and would just like to say how nice it is to see you do a tutorial again.
Quality advice as always keep up the good work!
Was going to say the same! I enjoy all squidmar content but the tutorials are always super helpful!
The quick rundown of highlighting on different surfaces was 10/10. That little bit of information often takes some people entire video series to convey.
I like that you show on screen the specific paint you used. There were a few vids in which I like the color you guys were using but had no clue which brand/color it was
Fantastic work again as per usual guys! I never knew Vallejo did coloured sprays. I might have to have a look into those.
I believed they are just thinned down regular acrylics
@@frankierodriguez3240not quite, but close. That said, i've not been thrilled about my own results with them, but YMMV.
Thanks!
I’m new to painting minis ….. this is a really REALLY HELPFUL and PRACTICAL video!
But where is the dunk in da paint pot method😂
The only correct way
I’d like to imagine when each legion gets a new space marine recruit, they just have a huge paint bucket of their legions colour and just dump them inside of it and stick some of their legion merchandise stickers on them and call it a day
@@381HV "don't work too hard on this one, he'll be dead in a week"
Lmao.@@Albatross0913
I loved following along with this video, though the end result doesn't really look like any ultramarine I've ever seen. Leaning way more space wolf or am I just crazy?
Also because of how light they are, the transfers kind of look fairly lame when you throw a white U on a very light blue shoulder.
EDIT: Supposedly these are very Grim Dark Ultramarines and that's something I just learned about when I was told that, and the scheme is growing on me quickly.
You can also use synthetic art sponges for the sponge part if you want more consistent application
Love that you have done a basic painting tut like in the old days! I was a bit bored of all that resin. Thanks a lot
Love the video, felt like a nice alternative to an easy metal style. The main thing I learned from this was for the delicate highlights, they held the brush much closer to the tip, allowing for better brush control, it seems obvious now but Ive always held the brush in the same place when painting and doing neat white highlights have been really difficult when it's not along an edge. Thanks so much!
In terms of white sprays, GW's new White Scar has a super fine mist so is great for zenithal, gives nice smooth transitions. I've found it better than the Vallejo sprays.
They are paid by Vallejo so they have to say that.
I get a pretty smooth result with corax white if I keep the rattle can 8+ inches away, keep either the mini or the rattle can moving with each spray, and most importantly a very thin mix of paynes gray ink and medium wash to separate the details and blend the transitions a bit. Fast, cheap, and good.
I did the first method and used a few extra steps - it looks great. Thank you so much!
Well, this is timely and greatly appreciated! I may try some of those techniques on the Marines I'm currently painting!
Thank you for the basics on highlighting principles!
After trying a few different white spray primers over the years, the Fine Primer White spray (#1011) from AK has become my go-to spray - it gets the job done every time.
I've been using the yygywen cordless airbrush that ninjon stumbled on in one of his videos which I got for fidday bucks on amazon along with the badger air primers and I'm never going back to a rattle can. I was shocked how well that little junker mini airbrush works and taking it outside and spraying them on my trash can in the alley has been nice. I tried valejo airbrush primer at first but it kept peeling off the smoother models and like areas where there was a little superglue residue and stuff. the badger air primers ended up bonding where the valejo wouldnt and seems to dry a tiny bit faster as well
11:26 I am very limited in my hobby situation, can't do air brushes or other sprays, so I like it when ol'mate says it's dumb not to use airbrush for the last method😅
You just put down a drop cloth or newspaper on your work surface and spray into that. You don't need a spray booth or ventilation for acrylics
Version 3 is absolutely incredible, Those traits are very well aimed and the blue colors chosen are just perfect,
Rustoleum flat white primer works like a dream, but I figure that has to do with what I have available in my corner of the world
Just me who thinks version 1 looks the best?
And even then not that great. The blue is too light. But yeah the thick blue highlights on the other 2 are just really off-putting to me. They look more basic than number 1. I think if I attempted 2 & 3 it'd just be an even sloppier version. The only thing they have going for them is the skill and neatness of the highlights, even though the style is not great looking. But it's subjective I guess?
@@TCMorrigan yeah subjective style. Not eavy metal nor fill grim dark which is fine. Agree the blue is too light for canon UMs but if just focus on the style/effects it's quite nice. Personally I do the zenithal prime the get a decent size dru brush out and do a single light blue pass for highlights before moving on to details. Gets the job done!
I think lighting is a big factor too. Film lights giving the paint a highlight. Shoulders and helm. Some natural light and shadow on all things but normal room lights not tripod filming lights.
Blue too light? Mate, you need to go back and check how the OG marines were painted
@@TCMorrigan Plenty of UM artwork with the blue being lighter and trending towards Mayan blue. The Ultramarine review comes to mind, with the chaplain going through the ranks.
These are some great techniques. I’ve experimented with slap-chop and found that the standard zenithal (black and white) only really works well with a dark base contrast colour. I tried to use white scar for my Deathwing painting video and basically ended up just basing them again in wraithbone… (I only used white scar as I couldn’t be bothered buying more paint at the time, any one else find white scar a bit grainy? And I heated the can and shook for 4 minutes, still a bit of a grainy finish 🤔)… Also stippling with a brush or sponge like you do in the video is the best way I’ve found to make gradients. For a smooth finish I just do a couple of really light glazes over the top to blend things in a bit more at the end. Love the videos!
ya white scar is a known paint that is just not great too often, the standard zenithal id say is good for all base colors for a light color its also great but i guess ti depends on how much you sprayed white on the black primed mini and how much shadow you want.
Rustoleum craft primer destroys all the primers i've seen in this video. The coverage is legendary. Best spray cans by a mile.
I could watch you paint all day, and I'm always learning something. Thanks for the quality videos!
You guys should do this with every space marine faction
The absolute best rattlecan primer I've ever used is Gunze Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500. Its remarkably tolerant to variances in ambient temperature/humidity.
I love that stipping/sponge highlight technique! I'm looking at how to paint snake skin for some Steel Viper 'Mechs for BattleTech, and I think this would work great for that too.
Nice to see y’all doing a tutorial again!
I might try some of this with the Orks my son picked out to paint together. We're beginners and I'm half blind so easy is good for us lol
Great examples and straightforward to the subject matter. Like the way you split screen and show detail painting alongside the sponsor material. Otherwise I skip forward.
Andrea Blue is one of my favorite colors of all time. If you prime Dark Prussian Blue, it makes a fantastic highlight.
Would love to see this with Dark Angels/Imperial Fists or a Chaos Space Marine just for a bit of elaboration on a different color scheme!
man i needed that rundown in light reflection for highlights good shit
I'm totally using some of those tips on my Starweavers/harlequins
This is just a helpful video for the technique even if you are not doing ultra marines. I am gonna use a lot of this stuff going into any future armies i start. Specifically the airbrush stuff i am always intimidated to do more with it but these are all amazing ways to speed up some of the more tedious painting steps.
Great video , and will definitely be trying one of these on my space marines Infernus.
I used to paint when they were lead. Been years and fancied trying it again thank you for your video, much appreciated. Would you recommend getting back in and starting with airbrush from the start again? Salamanders for me. And what do you think of the games workshop paints?
Orion is OG in my nostalgic zeitgeist this was amazing
I like how you did the sponsored bit. Admittedly, I tend to skip them but having the painting on the side kept me watching just to see the workflow.
How do you do the priming with the Vallejo Blue Spray? Only from top or also directly straight from front/back etc.? Thanks 🙂
Gonna have to tweak the colors a bit but I want to the third method for my Crimson Fists!
Very good! Perfect for my stop motion videos!
Love to see the tutorials more ❤
Version 1 is so simple but effective.
Jaha... now I want to paint a Space Marine.
Great video! :D
Dulux surf mist if found is amazing as a white hi-light spray
Thanks man, very nice video, helpfull for beginners like me
Afraid I've got too many Smurfs with the traditional 3 citadel blues to change now, but I appreciate covering the topic.
Liquid drum n' bass and ultramarines.. ah a man of culture.
What would be the best method of high lighting the black and white Theme of the Raven Guard for example, since they use Black and White. Would using Grey's and gloss blacks work as highlights without looking forced and look more natural? This will all be done with a brush atm.
Lovely, but quick question, I have an airbrush, is it better to prime with the spray can or use the vallejo primer grey, white and black colors and just use airbrush thinner???
I would always use the airbrush pwrsonally, much better control, easier to get thin coats, which is helpful for a zenathil
Spray cans tend to have much more durable adhesion, so for metal and resin I much preffer them. That also makes them better for models that you will touch or transport regularly. If its for display then it might be better to go with airbrush primer for thinner coats and more control. Airbrush is also great if you have bad weather and cant prime outside.
@michaeladams1124 that's fair, I do a lot of resin models, but I also tend to use a airbrushed varnish layer as my last step/sometimes after establishing my basecoats/broadshadign with the airbrush, and I find that does plenty well, and I get so much more value out of the airbrushed primers than I would out of a spray can
this may sound silly but when would you add the decals on any of the 3 versions? To obtain the best result of each finished piece
I would probably add them after the highlighting step, then you can add scratch marks and similar to them after that.
I noticed you were spray priming outside in the snow, do you find that lower temperatures have much of an effect on the finish? Most people say you'd want something between 60-80 Fahrenheit.
I don't even like Space Marines. But it's nice to watch a straightforward, simple tutorial video.
How would you do Blood Angels using the 2nd method? I've been having trouble pinning down the right colors and order.
94 spray paint or Montana give some pretty smooth finishes
This must be the filler project between the high intensity videos: "Lukas, I am sick of pouring 3000l of resin and building sky-high dioramas. What do we do this week? " -"The same things we always do, when we don't know what to do next Emil - we paint some Space Smurfs!"
Any of The Army Painter spray whites are excellent ...as in almost Airbrush quality excellent.
Lukas is gooood....any suggestions for black minis? like Raven Guard?
What I'd love to see is another Ork Painting guide 😉 can I get a Waaagghh?
Oh, god, what a pleasure to hear "vallejo" well pronounced.
I'd like to see you guys do a really cool Horus Heresy army / Display. It would be cool to see all those cool plastic 30k models get the squigmar glow up and diorama
I've got good results with Citadel White Scar primer rattlecan.
Yeah me to, although I believe that's because they recently created a new version without telling anyone. It was listed as "new" on their website a while ago and might still be.
Xenatholly contrast ?? Love the new word Emil!!!
What are the differences between contrast paint and the regular or base paint? 😅
White Scar is fantastic.
This video makes you appreciate how underestimating space marines can be. Although the 3 examples are quite decent for table top standard, it goes to show how much time it takes to paint the clean GW look with all the edge highlights.
Seeing good painters like yourselves ditching the clean smooth finish in order to get fast results was very consoling😅
I might have another tip to try, Over brushing followed by selective edge highlighting. But we’ll never see such a video on Squidmar as Emil is an open Dry brush hater 😂
😬
The colours here make it look like the imaginary light source is very cold light. Is this the best way to make blue pop? Would be great to see a tutorial on when to change the imaginary colour temperature of light source for different colours. Ie. Always use cold for primary blues, always use warm for primary reds etc.
What paint would you recommend for doing space wolves
On the first
After blue Magic spray , did you use brush to paint all the mini with a brush & Magic blue ?
Yes I also want to know that because you metioned only spray from top but the mini is totally blue in the video before stippling
I’m new to the hobby and have only been painting a couple of months now and admittedly your videos inspired me to get into it - so thank you! When painting SM this way, are you just forgoing unit markings? Or how would you incorporate them using one of these examples?
most people use transfers for heraldry rather than free handing it
Its a good tutorial!
Was worried no video was comming this week! Happy to see it arrive! :D
Could I do the same beginner process for painting salamanders? I assume so but I’m not sure how it would work
What black primer do we use for 1st one
I never been able to make Vallejo White spray primer work well. I always finish with a grainy texture. When I spray black primer with the same weather conditions it is smooth so it doesn't seem to be a weather issue. Any tips to make it work ?
I tried to use Dark Sea Blue through my airbrush, but it keeps separating into a really light blue and a much darker colour every time I attempt to thin it at all.
I've tried airbrush thinner, water, and other mediums and it still does the same.
Any recommendations? or do I have a defective batch?
sadly i'm not a blue player :/
do you have the same for other color? or would you have a swatch of multiple color that could be used to follow the same step for the different legion / chapter?
Would love to see on of these videos for Blood angles or world eaters.
This is probably your most useful video so far, to me anyways. If only I had more motivation.
Have you guys tried colour forge spray paints, there white has got to be the best
Very nice ❤ now do a video for salamanders as well, thank you
spraycans from the local hardware store!
I want to see new ways to paint black armour. Like a Raven Guard. Ravens have that black oil like look up close shimmers of blue purple and green. I don’t want all 3 in one paint scheme but how to do it so that the black isn’t over saturated by blue etc.
I just started painting Ultramarines today. 😀
Awesome, enjoy! I have only done 2 models so far (both Ultramarines) but spent 20 hours on the first and 12 on the 2nd doing a full eavy metal style.
Check out infernal brush "How to paint an Ultramarine" video if you want to do a more clean and pro look. It does take much longer mind you and many more paints.
Great work
Need to figure out where Emil gets that shirt from the opening...and most of the vid
In to the am. We've got sponsor links in many videos where you can have 10% off :)
I should have realized that lol.
@@SquidmarMiniatures
Ah yes. Level 1, space marine. Level 3, confused man. Level 4, better space marine.
Best way to paint ultramarines....paint another chapter.
Do you really want to be a Buttermilk Bob?
But can you use this also for blood angels? I have the Space Hulk terminators to paint.
Emil... Awesome tutorial as usual...
But...
I want to see your take on The Legion of the Damned... Can that be done?
Greetings all the way from Lima, Perú!
Watch a video about painting Space Marines
Get 5 booster packs for Warpforge
Open zero Space Marine packs
Opens conspiracy theory against Squardmar
Sowwy
Can you do this process with other chapters than space marines?
Would i just swap colors and use the same techniques for black templars
Will you be doing one for painting Orks from 40k as well?
Kind sir please tell me as soon as you can if I can still apply the same higlight as you even after I already paintes the details like eyes and shoulders. It is an emergency!
Hi, like your videos. I always use the Armypainter Black and white primer and i like it. I tried citadel and i hate it to
I use the Chinese ones from Ali express made out of weasel and squirrel hair? Not sure about the last one but they are great, better than synthetic and quite cheap, for 10 bucks you get a full set
Awesome beginner video again! :) Just one important question. Do you use Thinner or Flow Improver, when you use contrast paints with the airbrush?