Adjusting the thermostat anticipator part 2
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- Опубликовано: 27 ноя 2024
- I show some of the anticipators on mechanical residential thermostats. I explain the operation and adjustment of them. This video is part of the thermostat anticipators playlist.
Since last year in My new home I could not get my heater to work and thanks to you making this video and me coming across it my home is warm with financial problems I could not afford someone to come look at it so thank you so much for posting this video
Okay...so the first one you showed is exactly what I have in my RV which is my current home. This is brand new...maybe 6-8 months old. Out of nowhere for the last 24hrs the heater was turning on and staying on even though I had it set to the third line. That usually has it turn on for about 5min, which is more than enough time to heat up such a small space. I turned the little dial all the way off but it just kept on going pumping out heat. I finally went out and turned off the gas because I was being roasted alive. After watching your videos I opened the thermostat cover and the little dial arrow was pointing to 1.2. I’m hoping I’ve understood correctly as I’ve moved the arrow clockwise so that it’s now pointing to .6. I’ll see if this helps to shorten how long the heater turns on for! Hoping you still check this as it’s an 8 year old video but it looks like you did respond to someone about 11 months ago. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge with us!! I’m an absolute dummy when it comes to this type of thing so I’ll take any help I can get!🤗
I have an old Honeywell mercury switch and a new Tempstar furnace. I'd like to replace the thermostat with a digital one, but really I'd like to have it be more accurate...it's off about 4 degrees at least with a digital AND a red outdoor thermometer that I used to check. Can I just move it a little up or down to make it more accurate?
They can be adjusted. Pretty hard to do in a comment. I will put it on the list for a video.
GFM
Thank you! Your the best. Us renters amd poor people need help with these things.
@@josephmalone1786 Welcome
GFM
I've been having an issue with my thermostat..wondering if i can get some help. my a/c is set to auto 75. it says its 72 in my home but the a/c wont shut off. runs all day. a/c is cool, gets colder the longer it runs but yet it wont shut off unless i move the temp set to almost 80. its 90+ degrees in Houston, cant have my a/c at 80. what could be the problem? Thanks for your help....
PriscilathaKilla The thermostat may be out of calibration or it could be located in the wrong spot. Probably the best thing to do to start with is replace the thermostat.
GFM
PriscilathaKilla j
My thermostat is just like the first one in the video and it won’t heat beyond 70. Please advise!! My dial also doesn’t have the little arrow it only has the handle part installed. The arrow is simply missing so this makes things very confusing.
If you turn the thermostat up as far as it will go will it heat beyond 70 F?
GFM
Same problem. My landlord had a subcontractor install a new Schneider Electric with anticipator. Water seems boiling hot in baseboards with fins but it won't heat beyond 70 even pushed as far as it can go! I'm not sure the anticipator is set right... I wish there was an easy solution! :(
grayfurnaceman Help Please! My thermostat is the same one in the first part of your video but it stopped working then it would only work when I set it on high I don't know what to set the inside dial to its on 6. We are freezing. Please help!
I bought a Honeywell CT30. My wire only has a red and white.
Thank you for the video!
Its probably not the anticipator. Have you checked the trouble codes?
GFM
grayfurnaceman I put the old one back on and it works. Mine doesn't have codes. Thanks for your videos!
Thank you for helping me out😊
our heat only comes on if we turn our thermostat to 80, can you tell me why?
If its hot water heat go around to each rad and bleed off the air as these things are very susceptible to airlocks every rad will have a bleeder screw catch the water the best you can and use a big rag too ...
Need help, ac set to 50 but showing 80, ive called the repairman and he said its fine, what should i do?
this is an old video so I dont know if u will see this.. but I am trying to fix my air unit.. i bought a new thermostat, its a honeywell ct-30 and there is one of those dials to change.. in my manaul it says "electric furnace any type" to set it to .3 but this is for an AIR UNIT.. it runs.. but it runs and runs and nver turns off.. if I raise the temp up high enough for it to stop.. it stops.. but if i go to turn it back on it kicks the breaker outside on the pole.. so do I have it adjusted wrong? the old one that was on there was a really old and didnt have numbers... or it wasnt set to a number.. i dont have a guage or anything to read the voltage.. so what do I do?
If you are using it for A/C, no adjustment of the anticipator is needed. You have a problem not related to the thermostat. Are you getting cold air when it is running?
GFM
its fixed now.. sorry i should have updated.. it turned out to be the breaker going bad outside.. it was replaced and its fine now.. but thats good to know for the future.. so It doesnt matter what the anticipator is set on for air? cause it was on 4 or .4 not sure.. i did change it to the .3 or whatever.. should I change it back? or does it even matter?
I would leave it as it was when you started.
GFM
I thought maybe adjusting this thing would fix my problem.. maybe not. Boiler zone valve at basement is constantly calling for heat even though the thermostat is off. What is likely wrong.. the little Honeywell disc valve motor? If it's always getting 24 volts it's either the boiler's board or the thermostat, and if it's getting no volts then it must be the valve motor; right? I have had to shut the valves off past the zone valve to get the heat to stop but the damned zone is still calling for it. Calling a boilerman isn't an option so I need to figure this out on my own. Will any other issues be had by doing what I've done? If the water can't go anywhere but a foot past the zone valve where a second valve is shut off, it shouldn't affect anything; right?
You probably have a stuck zone valve. No 24 volt at the valve motor, and valve is open, the valve is stuck. Shutting off downstream will not cause any failures.
@@grayfurnaceman I unplugged red wire at thermostat and the zone stayed open. I remembered the boiler was making a noise I assumed was a hard start at the gas valve and that it would eventually stop working and need to be replaced. Now I realize it was the zone valve motor. The teeth of the opener that the motor sits on was stripped and manually operating it was very difficult. Seems like I need to replace the motor and box it sits in.. hopefully the valve itself is fine. If these parts are made in China now I'll be looking for an older one that was made in Canada or USA. This one lasted 26 years!
Seems like replacing just the motor (but not the actuator head) has partially fixed the issue; the zone now opens and closes when the thermostat tells it to. The only other thing I can do is buy a whole valve, remove the entire actuator head assembly with the motor, and install it in the old actuator head's place (if it's identical); but it seems to be working to open the zone with just the motor. BUT, if I press really hard on the manual opens for the other zones it actually fires the boiler where it won't with the basement zone. So I guess I either have a bad board (or connection with the merettes at the new motor?) or that actuator head assembly really is no good. As long as the zone is open, heat will still circulate especially if the other zones are calling for heat (and maybe that feature of the zone firing the boiler for that zone burned out because it was always open). Even with the heat off downstairs it still feels plenty warm, probably from the boiler itself being down there. I'm probably going to leave it as it is for now.
@@VinylToVideo If it is a Honeywell valve, the power unit is replaceable.
GFM
Do you know how to adjust the anticipator on a Emerson 1a10-651? I can’t find instructions anywhere. It’s stuck on 58 and doesn’t move. I live in an apartment and the maintenance ppl are worthless so I need to fix it myself
Your thermostat is a line voltage one. There is no anticipator that can be adjusted.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman thanks for your reply. That helped out a lot bc now I know that I was wasting time looking in the wrong direction. From what I see online, the way to calibrate it is to turn a screw to match the indoor temp. After I do that will the unit have the ability to turn itself on and off when it reaches that point? Also, it’s for a fan coil unit that is manually switched over from cold to hot during the winter. I have the sub base switch set to hot right now(the internal on/off switch is stuck on 58 degrees) but when I turn the knob to a temp lower than 58 the heat turns off and when I raise it above 58 it turns on. When I switch it to cold(warm air still comes out of course) it turns on below 58 and off when above. Is the unit wired backwards?
I need help my heat won’t turn off it just stays on all day and it won’t go off
Take the cover off thermostats & adjust the apms I would turn it too .4
exactly... what are you's saying... question is do calibrate the actual amperage stamped on the gas valve to the anticipator?!!
That number may not be accurate for the actual draw of the heating circuit. I like to measure with an ammeter the W circuit. Merry Christmas
GFM
Need Help. I have a Lux T101141 thermostat. I have called our apartment maintenance several times already, but each time he got the fireplace to come on, once it goes off, it'll never come back on again, therefore I had to submit another maintenance request. Every time he comes up here to fix it, he mess around with the anticipator to get it working again. But once the temp reached the desired temp, it'll turn off. Once it turns off, it will never come back on, not even if the temp register 60 degrees. It's getting pretty annoying especially if he thinks I'm the one who is doing something to it
The answer depends on the control system of the fireplace. If the system uses millivolts to operate, you have the wrong thermostat. Your thermostat is for use with 24 volts. The maintenance man may adjust the anticipator and that may allow it to start, but the anticipator introduces excessive resistance to the circuit of the millivolt system.
GFM
How long will only the gas burner will run and how long will it take to turn back on that heat anticipator if is it set on 4 or .4
There is no way to determine the cycling rate without knowing the amp draw of the thermostat is if the thermostat is mechanical. If it is electronic, there is a way to set the cycling rate in the installer setup.
GFM
How do you find the amp draw from the Circuit broad to figure the amp?
Use a clamp meter around the W wire to the thermostat.
GFM
Do I need to adjust this to make my AC cool it's not blowing cold
No. If the fan is running inside and the outside fan is running, you have no problem related to the thermostat.
GFM
My gas heater when kicks on makes a loud BOOM and blows the Pilot light out what is causing that and why??
hello. it's a year later and I fixed many problems with the Rinnai combo boiler that was programmed incorrectly by the plumbers. They had the heat water temperature set to 120°f. with Rinnai techs helping me, I reprogrammed it 180. what I would like to know is how do you read the amp draw and where? I have a laser temperature meter and have been reading the temperature of the anticipator when the contacts are made. Without completely understanding, I'm assuming that the higher temperature it gets, it will it will shut off the thermostat quicker. Does that sound reasonable? My house doesn't produce enough heat because there isn't enough baseboard on the first floor and there is a very long run in the cold cellar before it makes it upstairs. I am in no danger of overheating the room. I set the amp gauge at 1.2 which reads close to room temperature. I don't want it shutting off too soon thinking the room will get to hot after the thermostat is satisfied. Any ideas would help.
Thanks
Boilers should be set for about 1to 2 cycles per hour. Setting the anticipator to the amp draw of the heating circuit will give you 6 cycles per hour. You will check amp draw by using a clamp meter around the W wire going to the thermostat. I would set the anticipator about 1.5 times the amp draw. Example: amp draw .5 set anticipator at .75. Hope this helps.
GFM
grayfurnaceman Thank you. Without taking the reading of the amp draw, I set it to 1.2 because I need very short cycles to get the room up to temperature. This boiler has to run a long time to achieve that. I can't have the anticipator heating up too much too soon. I've struggled for 6 years since they installed this Rinnai on my new house. They did many things wrong and I resolved about 6 of the problems they created. If I'm wrong, at least I believe I'm close. LOL
Thank you. I can't get any plumbers to deal with it. They take one look at the Rinnai and the God-awful plumbing and walk out
This house was rebuilt after my other one was destroyed by fire. Everything the plumbers did had problems. When I saw they pitched the drain pipes the wrong way in many places, I wondered HOW could they possibly install a Space Shuttle of a boiler. They were on the phone with Rinnai all day for 6 days. All unions at the boiler leaked because they soldered them while they were connected and melted the gaskets. It's been six years of frustrating hell. The contractor had them come back this summer because I sent him photos. The plumbers couldn't fix the unions and I also realized they didn't put in the valves to flush the boiler. How could I expect accurate heat! I have to light myself on fire to bring myself up to temperature!
Sorry to take up your time but in essence I'm on my own with this one.
I have a 5 year old taco non digital thermostat. when I move the lever to raise the heat above room temperature, it doesn't click but will turn on circulator. I took off the cover and saw a movable gear and arm with numbers on the disc. I don't know what to set the number to. I don't know the required voltage. can you help? the same one upstairs clicks with changes.
Thanks
+MrBikedrummer The newer thermostats may not click but if the circa comes on it is ok. The numbers are amp draw of the circuit. The amp draw must be determined with a clamp ammeter. The voltage is 24. Hope this helps.
GFM
Thanks for replying but the identical one upstairs does click.
+MrBikedrummer If the circ comes on, its working.
GFM
+grayfurnaceman will I see a 24 on the dial? like all good home trouble shooters, I think I turned it to match the other one because there was always a 10 degree difference between room temp and the desired setting. If the thermostat was set at 70, room was 60. if 80 room was 70. 5 year old home with combo gas boiler on demand.
Thanks again
+MrBikedrummer Also there is enough baseboard on the first floor.
What if you dont have an old thermostat with the mercury?
If your thermostat is mechanical, this will work. If your thermostat is electronic, you will need to go into the installer setup to change anticipation.
GFM
How do we find out what the control circuit draw is? Where is this information stated?
There are 2 ways. Use a clamp meter on the W wire when calling for heat and set the anticipator number accordingly.
If you don't have a clamp meter, you can try this: ruclips.net/video/4mldGGxAVIs/видео.html Merry Christmas
GFM
Thanks good video
I was told this was also called a "dead band" setting.Tungsten wire. Our heat didnt come on the other day and the tech found the wire broken. He moved the slider to make contact and send a signal Now it doesn't run constant but I was told that these settings were for ,like if a cold wind or gust it would not cycle your heat. .
It is a "dead band" setting. If the wire is broken, you need to replace the thermostat. The wind gust thing has no basis. I have several more videos on anticipators that may help.
GFM
Thank You, Sir. It was 8 degrees at home and we were worried about pipes freezing. I did clean the igniter and flame sensor. I thought it may be the induction motor. But on "fan" the motor came on. I checked the board and the red light was constant. I thought normal operation. When I realized it wasn't getting a signal I thought it may be the thermo. I called the man and after taking a few readings he traced it back to the thermostat. Red wire...24 volts at the unit. That's when he showed me the wire and moved the slider. Yes, I agree we need to replace it but would you recommend a wireless ? Again Thank You...
All depends on what you want to pay. Wireless thermostats work ok but there are many decent wired ones that are cheaper.
GFM
Not quite understanding this. When it gets to the temperature set. Why won't it turn off? It just runs an runs. My anticipator is set in between .6 .8 plz help?
Your problem may not be in the thermostat. Try disconnecting the red wire on the thermostat to see if it stops.
GFM
Ok so my unit froze up twice. My thermostat is set to 75 but the ac is set to auto and keeps running to 68 and still doesnt cut off.. Why?
If you disconnect the Y terminal at the air handler and it still does not shut off, look for a stuck contactor at the outdoor unit. If it shuts off, the problem is in the thermostat.
GFM
0:28 what would happen if someone for got to install that clear plastic cover from the conector/switch?
It would work normally.
GFM
Question sir my heater keeps turning at night randomly and we are having to fight it to get it to turn back on any advice
James Stark What fuel, gas oil electric.
GFM
grayfurnaceman an old gas floor heater for a house i took off the face plate and now i have to tape it to get it to turn on
If there is a door switch, and you have to tape it to get it to come on, that is normal. You are not being clear.
GFM
grayfurnaceman its a luxpro s.p.s.t. t101141/psm30
a/c is at 65 but the house is 75 what should I do
Call a repairman
GFM
How can I tell what amperage I put it on for first display you have. .2 .3 or what??
We are novices, and being as such we do not know what our control circuits draw.
we do not understand the effects of the different length of anticipater wire pretend you're taking to complete idiots and give it to us in English ....I listend to it a couple times and yeah didn't get it ...shame on me I recon eh...
Try this one: ruclips.net/video/4mldGGxAVIs/видео.html
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman that one doesn't help either; is there a way to know what the anticipator should be set on without guessing or trial and error. Like maybe there's a number somewhere on the furnace that you dial into the anticipator? Or maybe there's a method of using a multimeter to determine the draw, and then dial that into the anticipator? We want to know how to do that correctly.
Thanks
When you are using youtube, look for the links. There are several videos on thermostat anticipators that are linked that may help. Try this one: ruclips.net/video/clud3BBiQV8/видео.html
GFM
@@Scott.Farkus the anticipator should be set to the micro amps on the gas thing lol in the furnace
This makes very little sense to me. I have a Honeywell thermostat t822d 1008 and I don't understand what you're saying here. Turning that dial adjust the wire length? Your were talking about amperage. This is just confusing.
Turning the dial does change the length of the heater wire and increases the amount of heat discharged by the heater for a given amount of amperage going thru the heater.
If you increase the amp draw of the circuit, you must shorten the length of the wire to correspond tho the increased amperage draw of the circuit.
GFM
What would cause the anticipator wire to melt/pop?
A low voltage short will cause the anticipator to burn through. Thermostat wire shorted to the chassis of the unit?
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman I looked for loose wires and found the white wire was broken off from the furnace panel. I stripped it and reattached it. I switched on the electricity to the furnace, and switched the thermostat to heat, but nothing happened. Now there doesn't seem to be any power in the furnace. The green LED light is out. Maybe the transformer has blown out.
Assuming the high voltage power is ok, I would be looking for a low voltage fuse either on the transformer or on the control board.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman Finally! I checked for any fuses and there was only one fuse on the control panel. It was a mini circuit breaker - fuse type 3 amp switch. The button on the fuse was in the up position and I could not reset it. I was able to buy the same fuse yesterday and today I put it on and it works! Thank you so much for your help, I was able to fix the problem with your assistance when I had an HVAC guy from GAC Services come over and he couldn't even figure out that the white wire was broken, he even wrote in his summary that the fuse was okay, and that he tested the transformer when he didn't even lower the tray that contained the control panel and transformer.
I put the heat 70 but the temperature in the apartment more than 90! I put it 50 also the heat still 90 what I have to do ?!
It's not your thermostat. There is a problem with the furnace or distribution system.
GFM
Remember one of these 🦕 ??
How do i set it on cool
The cooling anticipator is non adjustable. The anticipation is built in to the thermostat.
GFM
Well this mess with the coolness of my air conditioner because my AC is running but it's not cool
my thermostat is stuck on 70. how do i reset? old white rodgers
Electronic or mechanical?
GFM
grayfurnaceman hi. I have this problem. My Mechanical thermostat won't move past the 70 mark. I put the to 65 to see if it will cool or work properly but it doesn't.
Juan Snow same issue
Sorry, this doesn't really tell me anything except you are showing off your technical jargon. You never say what the adjustment ACTUALLY does to the furnace, how to adjust for real results, and how this affects the heat output, duration, or comfort level. additionally, I don't believe for one minute the electrical feed wire raises the coil temperature - that is done by the atmosphere of the room.
Try the playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLItXrh64d2JPV2UPQW_fxp28CdR4AbMef
GFM
You are trying to impress with technical knowledge while totally not getting whey people to come to a page called "adjusting a thermostat". what do you think we are here for? a lesson in circuits and switches and how much current goes through a wire? I didn't come to find out how it works, i came to find out how to adjust it. the temp in my place swings too far from too hot to too cold. which way do I move the indicator to narrow the temperature spread? when it licks off i want it to kick back on when the temp goes down something less than 2 degrees. is there any reason not to have it set so it keeps a steady temperature. my thermostat looks exactly like the one in the first part of your video
I have a number of videos on anticipators. All are linked. If you want to know how to adjust it without tools or a meter, simply move the lever toward "longer cycles" about 1/4" then check operation. If set correctly, temp variation in the structure should be less than one degreeF.
GFM
Never defines 'anticipator'. (When teaching something/anything, your students need to know the meaning and implications of the terms you use.) Apparently, the anticipator is a matter on the heater and not the air-conditioning side of the thermostat/system...but this, too, is so poorly explained that I'm not sure (and I know I'm not so unique that I'm the only one confounded by this). Better we all try another tutorial.
Try this one: ruclips.net/video/atTh2WKUk9E/видео.html
GFM
How can I turn the thermostat off?
If there is a system switch on the thermostat, you can turn it off. If not, there should be a switch on the side of the furnace.
GFM