Thought I was going to have to return my Nest thermostat because old one had RH/RC with jumper. Watched this video and took a look at the wiring on the control board and realized I didn't have to return it. Thanks!
Appreciate the information. You are a good teacher. That is a skill. Many have information and knowledge but cant explain things in a way most can understand. Thank you!
I found the video very informative and superior to other videos I have watched. For me the big take away was that the color of the wires might or might not agree with the letter markings on the components. It is the function that is important. One take away from another video is that when replacing a thermostat that has been working but has failed is to take a picture of the previous wiring to use as a reference. I have a thermostat where the DOWN button does not reliably reduce the temperature setting so I am going to replace it with a simple manual Heat/Cool type thermostat. I plan to take a picture first and connect the wires to the same "Letters" as in the picture.
Finally, someone who can explain something from the inside out. Totally, understandable. I've looked many places for this info. and had to put it together myself to understand, what Mike has explained soo... clearly .Great job, Mike. Thank you.
I knew nothing of HVAC, though wanted to figure it out some since I just moved the thermostat by running a new length of 5 conductor. Everything worked fine, but I had a piece of 2 conductor coming off of it that I now know the function of thanks to this video. You explained all of the functions of the connection in a manner that people could understand easily and clearly without treating us like idiots. Thank you!!!
Finally how to wire a thermostat and how it works explained so it's easy to understand. I've been looking for a video like this for years! They should show this video in heating and cooling classes. Thank You!
I had a very old and very confusing wiring setup on my old thermostat/control board with a wire splice in the middle too. This helped me get it sorted out and understand why it was wired the way it was. New smart thermostat is in and functioning perfectly. Thank you!!!
You can tell when someone is a G at what they do when they lay it down like this! Majority of the time wiring is just 1 point 2 another and ends up making sense at the end of the day. But having someone lay it out like this it sure does make it easier to learn.
This video is awesome‼️ I just wanted to say thank you so much for making it!!!! because of this video I wired two AC systems in my house with a Wi-Fi setup and they are working perfectly!‼️🍻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks so much for this video! This is exactly what I was looking for. This really explains everything. I have 2 systems with 2 different transformers but maybe you can include using a “relay in a box” to keep them separated when your thermostat only has a single “r” terminal.
I have several videos where I get deep into that. ruclips.net/video/_38t-RPiDwI/видео.html ruclips.net/video/gBJzVV7fm_M/видео.html ruclips.net/video/F88Y9NkvtQw/видео.html ruclips.net/video/AMUU3EQ3qLs/видео.html
That was quite informative. I have a diesel heater which has its own sort of thermostat. By sort of I mean when it reaches a certain temperature it just goes to the lowest setting. They make programmable thermostats that can intercept the wireless control signal for the diesel heater and use it to manipulate the off and on buttons. This allows a person to have an actual thermostat that turns the unit off when it reaches temperature. The concept is quite simple but the aftermarket thermostat is an additional $50. Some folks wire up a standard furnace thermostat to the contact points of the diesel heater's remote switch and use a 12-volt power supply to send a signal (power) to the diesel heater's remote switch. The diesel heater remote switch will time out after 10 seconds, so they can send power to the on button to turn the unit on and when the room temperature is satisfied it sends power to the off button. It seems to me this could be accomplished without a separate 12 volt power supply. I'm not really sure but I'll have to watch your video a few more times to see if a regular thermostat can trigger (close) one circuit (on) when it needs heat and close another circuit (off) when it reaches temperature and is ready to shut down the machine (essentially activating the off button on the diesel heater remote). Your explanations were very clear and I appreciate your professional knowledge. Thanks.
I just bought a relay that can work with 12-24 volts ac or DC. With that you can run a regular tstat off of a 24 circuit to activate the relay and send 12vdc to the switching side of the relay to control the heater. Normally open and normally closed can be used to toggle.
@@JerseyMikeHVAC I also have a couple of those small relays that I used to trigger my plasma cutter when I built a CNC table for it. It's a normally open and closes the contact when it receives a power signal. I was trying to rattle my marbles together to figure out how to incorporate that device. For me it usually takes quite some time before my brain can wrap around how everything works. I know the solution is there somewhere I just have to comprehend it. Thanks for the reply.
What I have found, is that HVAC Guys do what they want, when possible ! Not sure what they're thinking is, but likely as long as the same wire is connected to the Thermostat, and then to the control board, thats all that matters, apparently to them ! It's as if, they make it their own ! Especially if they do the installation ! As if they will be the only ones to service the system ! I found this out the hard way ! Thinking I could do a quick and simple Thermostat change ! Fortunately I was smart enough to take a before picture with my phone, of the wiring scheme ! Which turned out to be a Life saver ! I didn't agree with what I saw, but took the, " When in Rome " stance ! Most importantly, it worked, and you can't argue with success ! I can think of a lot of names for the initial install, but not here ! 😂🤣😂
By far the best video I've watched on how to wire a furnace. I wish that I could do a video call with you because I had a circuit board that went bad and one next door out of a furnace that was free and I'm trying to wire it up and make it work except it's a little bit different then the circuit board that is smoked. The only thing I wish your video had also is how each of the other components turn on and what sequence is used and possibly what the ohms are for each sensor. Kinda know what I'm doing, but first time fucking with furnace. Also GF is cold. Really good video, and I will be subscribing
Love u say r to r etc takes priority over color code, cause I had someone wire an air conditioner in 2002 who thought it was 1950 apparently used blue for power gave me a massive headache till i spent hours ohming it out to find out was connected to the r terminal
This is very informative and consolidated my knowledge of the wiring. This pretty much describes the same wiring as my Goodman furnace/ac setup. The only difference is my G terminal is wired to an external switch system that controls my central exhaust fan (R and G). Whenever I turn on a bathroom fan switch, it turns on my central exhaust fan but also turns on my blower motor through some kind of relay. I wonder if I can still connect another G wire from my thermostat to the G terminal to be able to use the circulation feature while still having my exhaust fan system wired to the blower as well...
Very informative video !! Definitely been explained here the best that I have heard unfortunately it doesn't answer the question that I am in pursuit of which is for a dual stage blower motor. I have been looking all over the place and cant figure it out i'm already three hours down the rabbit hole ...*( and no money to call an AC tec to fix ...
I have a control board like the one you're mentioning in your video, how do I connect my Nest power connector to my furnace if I don't have a terminal block on my control board?
Mike, is the orders: 1.transformer powers board, 2. Red wire is the only wire energized to thermostat 3.other wires are energized returning to board according to call. Is "red" wire only supply voltage to thermostat? Could u do a video on low voltage side of transformer supplying voltage to board? Is my thinking correct or incorrect? Thank you for good videos!
Absolutely. Yes. You just have to be careful because terminals at the board can have wires from other places than the thermostat (like a condensing unit or a humidifier, for example) so just make sure you know which collection of wires actually go to the thermostat.
The circuit board at the furnace wouldn’t lie as long as you’re reading the right part of the circuit board connections I would think and you have 2 wires at the contractor that’s your 24 volts to turn on your outside unit witch causes your contactor to complete the circuit you should be a professor 👍
Hi was wondering if you can help me with finding a thermostat on my rv I have the RH RC not to sure what to look for and I’ve been told to get a programmable thermostat
I set my thermostat to heat mode. Adjust thermostat to 70° furnace. Lights comes on blows heat into the house reaches setpoint turns off, but does not continue to run and blow access heat out of the heat exchanger and trips on high limit. Is my problem control board or thermostat.
Great video. I have the RC RH Separate system with no jumper wire as you stated. If I wanted to add a common wire because there is none connected to my thermostat now for the purpose of installing a smart thermostat. How can I go about doing that? Thanks.
Most smart thermostats working on 2 transformer set ups like yours will charge off of the cooling system (Rc terminal and Common). You'll want to see if you have an unused wire on the thermostat wires from your AC system and use that as a common connection between the AC control board and thermostat. FYI, for Ecobees the PEK kit will not work on a 2 transformer system if you don't have a common wire available.
PS The theme is a 4 wire system. It has white Red green and yellow. It has no other wire that you can hook to . In the unit there a O wire on the broad that other wire come from the side of that main A/C breaker or it called the main contact comes off the side. So do I need either one or can I hook them up to any of the four wires that hooks up to the thermostat.
after watching a few times i now understand what all the wires do,im just having a tough time wrapping my head around what i can do to install this C adapter for the homeywell T9,i have an okder lennox ac with no Y terminal,my tstat is a 3 wire cooling only so i have R,W and G wires,it tells me in the C adapter manual if i have no Y terminal it wont work for my system,im figuring if i can use another terminal to "fool"it maybe i can get this thing to work,im going to go back and study your video some more thanks
The white wire should be in your Y terminal at the thermostat (originally). That is your Y wire. You don't need W. At the other end of that white wire at the air handler, that white wire will connect directly to another wire that goes straight out to your outside unit. You can try to use that wire as your "Y terminal". The other wire from the outdoor unit is a common wire coming back and should land inside the air handler. Make sure you remember the original wiring because you'll have to put it all back if that doesn't work.
I have a 5 wire older system that I'd like to connect to a newer smart thermostat. You gave an excellent description of the Rc and Rh wires, however I have a red wire to Rh and blue wire to Rc. Blue wire I assumed was a Control wire but I feel I should follow the existing configuration. Without a control wire, this limits my options for a smart thermostat, unless i want to add the Control. Is the configuration of my wires correct to follow as is, with blue to Rc? Thank you.
Yes. Wire it the same way. All the blue wire means is that the original technician who wired it decided to use blue for AC control power (to Rc terminal) to distinguish it from the red for heating power (to Rh terminal).
Hey Jersey Mike enjoy your videos very much. Very informative but I do have a question about the rc and rh terminal which I do understand about heating and cooling. I have two zone heating gas hot water baseboard with a heating only two wire thermostat down stairs and my other thermostat upstairs is heating and cooling with unit in attic . My question Mike is this the upstairs thermostat is wired as this I have a red wire on my rc for cooling and a red wire on w then I have a white wire on r which would be for heat then I have a yellow wire on y and then a green wire on g . Everything seems to be working fine except when I turn on cooling my fan is set to auto which comes on automatically I don’t believe I can just run my fan independently. If I put in a nest thermostat should I put the two red wires to rc and rh and put the white wire to w if everything seems to be running okay.
All they did was reverse the red and white for heating, but you're just closing a simple circuit so it doesn't matter. You can keep the wiring as is or switch the red and white so the white goes to W and the red to Rh (which is conventional color code wiring). Only thing with the nest is that if it needs a common wire that common has to come off the AC system, not the boiler. Nests charge off of the Rc.
Hello I have a problem. The colors on the wires have been worn out so they are all the same brownish orange color. Except the red wire. My furnace is for both HVAC Unit. Don't know how to change them.
I will be changing the thermostat tomorrow when it arrives. I took a look in the thermostat and realized some of the wires are old and worn out so the colors are worn out. Except the red one. Still functions well.
@@samshepard8234 best thing is to just label each wire according to what terminal it lands on and use the same terminals on the new stat. or, if there is enough slack in the wire, you can pull it out and pull back the outer jacket to where it isn't faded.
My system is a forced air & heating system and my old thermostat (non-progamable) has a jumper wire connected to Rc/RH. My new non-programable Emerson 80 series 1F83C-11NP thermostat came with a tiny jumper wire already connected to the board of the thermostat. Can I just throw the old jumper wire out or do I cut the new jumper wire and use the old one on the new connectors or it doesn't matter which jumper wire gets used? I'm thinking it doesn't matter which one I use based on this video and others I have come across.
Very good explanation on how that works. Where is the actual 24volt made at? I thought it was generated by the coil in the contact. Can you clarify that for me? Well folks I don't think you will find a better explanation out there. So lets give him a thumbs up and subscribe for this great video. Thanks to all.
Thank you. The 24 volts that pulls in the contactor is part of the low voltage control circuit that begins with a step-down transformer located in the indoor unit. The transformer steals 24 volts from the same 220 volts (sometimes 120 V) that the main blower in the sir handler needs to run on. It then sends that 24 volts to the control board, and from there it goes to the thermostat's R terminal. When the T-stat calls for cooling, it will send that same 24v to the Y terminal in the stat, which then eventually goes out to the contactor. Inside the contactor there is what's called an electromagnetic coil. When 24 volts runs through it, it creates a magnetic field, which pulls in the contactor like a regular magnet. The outdoor unit then turns on. When the t-stat stops the call for cooling, it stops sending 24v to the contactor, that loss of voltage makes the magnetic field disappear and small springs inside the contactor then push the contactor back open again to shut the outdoor unit down.
Hi Mike, So right now I have a Trane VX95 and a Carrier A/C with only three wires going to the T-stat (wire in the wall has 6 leads) where the red is connected to R terminal , Black to B/C terminal and white to the W1 terminal. I would like to hook up a Honeywell TH6320ZW2003 T6 Pro Series T-stat . The terminals on the furnace panel currently attached are W2-Blue, W-White, R-Red, G-green, B/C-Black (and white A/C wire), Y- yellow (and Red A/C wire). So I'm confused as which I should connect? My thinking is W-W1, B/C to C, R-R, Y-Y. would this be correct? thanks
WHat are you using as your primary source of heat? Furnace or the heat pump? I ask because Honeywell says not to use the W terminal on their stats with heat pump applications. I recently had to disconnect a wire to the W terminal after someone hooked it up there because the heat strips would never shut off. Ran up an $800 electric bill. I had to disconnect that wire, which was also a Carrier heat pump with the Honeywell T6 stat.
mike I have 2 red wires on my control board one red out of control board going to red or thermostat and a red and yellow wire one the y terminal on my control board I don't know why@@JerseyMikeHVAC
Yellow wire to Y is the call for cooling from the thermostat. Y terminal on control board activates air handler for cooling mode. Red wire off of Y terminal goes to a contactor on the outdoor unit which turns on the compressor and fan motor out there.
On some models the Y wire from the thermostat runs directly to the outside unit and doesn't go to the control board on the indoor unit. Once it activates the outdoor contactor to turn the outdoor unit on, the Y wires returns back to the indoor unit as a common wire connected to C.
Had a HVAC tech come out yesterday because the board blew two fuses and blower and compressor would not start. He found a shorted wire between stat and furnace. No I have new wires and a C wire!
There are some systems that send the Y signal for cooling straight out to the condensing unit outside and it comes back to the air handler as a common.
can you explain why im not getting 24v at R on the control board but im getting 28v coming out of the transformer, im only getting 2.2v at the R terminal
If it's a furnace, there is often a high temperature limit switch or flame roll outs located in the circuit between the transformer and the R terminal on the board. If one of those are open, you won't get 24 at the R terminal on the board. Assuming the 3 or 5 amp fuse on the board is not blown.
I have red white only from thermostat to board .recently my 7505b gensy Burdette box had no power got new box same problem no motor power just blower runs no heat I put red white together to test one theory still no power also condenser is good sensors good still no heat , help????????
Awesome video. What happens when you have three wires on a terminal in a control board? I have three on my c terminal from thermostat, condenser, and humidifier.
A lot of guys will steal 24 volts off of a yellow wire that proves the pressure switch for the 24 volts needed to operate the humidifier solenoid. The common at C just completes that circuit. C from the thermostat completes the circuit needed to charge the stat. C from condenser is to complete the 24v circuit that engages the contactor to turn on the outdoor unit.
@@JerseyMikeHVAC that is exactly what they did. So it is fine to have 3 wires at the c terminal and can't hurt the board. Can the just be all connected at the screw or would a wago or wire nut be better? Thanks again.
@lukeleiden197 It won't hurt the board, but I would prefer to use a wire but to tie them together with only one wire on the terminal. Don't like the wago connectors. Electrician friend of mine doesn't advise using them.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thought I was going to have to return my Nest thermostat because old one had RH/RC with jumper. Watched this video and took a look at the wiring on the control board and realized I didn't have to return it. Thanks!
Appreciate the information. You are a good teacher. That is a skill. Many have information and knowledge but cant explain things in a way most can understand. Thank you!
You're very welcome.
I found the video very informative and superior to other videos I have watched. For me the big take away was that the color of the wires might or might not agree with the letter markings on the components. It is the function that is important. One take away from another video is that when replacing a thermostat that has been working but has failed is to take a picture of the previous wiring to use as a reference. I have a thermostat where the DOWN button does not reliably reduce the temperature setting so I am going to replace it with a simple manual Heat/Cool type thermostat. I plan to take a picture first and connect the wires to the same "Letters" as in the picture.
You do an excellent job explaining every key aspect of wiring. Best I have seen on the RUclips.
Your channel teaches more than most trade schools. Far better info than somerset county tech. That school was a waste.
Finally, someone who can explain something from the inside out. Totally, understandable. I've looked many places for this info. and had to put it together myself to understand, what Mike has explained soo... clearly .Great job, Mike. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
I knew nothing of HVAC, though wanted to figure it out some since I just moved the thermostat by running a new length of 5 conductor. Everything worked fine, but I had a piece of 2 conductor coming off of it that I now know the function of thanks to this video. You explained all of the functions of the connection in a manner that people could understand easily and clearly without treating us like idiots. Thank you!!!
You're welcome
This is the most intelligent explanation of thermostat and control board wiring. Thank you Sir.
Very good explanation without all of the 'self advertising'. Excellent channel.
Best explanation I have seen for beginners.
Best explanation about Rc and Rh ever seen !!!
Thanks!
No problem! THanks for the comment.
Rc 24v rh heating
Excellent and concise explanation of the functional relationship between the t’stat and the furnace control board.👍
Thanks!
Excellent explanation, I watched many videos until I finally got to understand it with yours. Kudos!
This video is gold. Three of your videos have saved me thousands of dollars and I can’t thank you enough man! 👍
That's crazy! Glad to help.
Finally how to wire a thermostat and how it works explained so it's easy to understand. I've been looking for a video like this for years! They should show this video in heating and cooling classes. Thank You!
I love your videos!! They are the most educational on RUclips. I really appreciate it. I am a young apprentice starting out in the trade.
Glad to help
I had a very old and very confusing wiring setup on my old thermostat/control board with a wire splice in the middle too. This helped me get it sorted out and understand why it was wired the way it was. New smart thermostat is in and functioning perfectly. Thank you!!!
Glad it helped!
Omg, this is a blessing video. I now know exactly what to do with my separate cool and heat systems. Thank YOU!
The most important advice I ever received in my yeasr so far as an electrician is to never let the magic smoke out of the wires
Thats pretty good advice.
Lol
I really learned the basic of wiring to day very well.
Thank you so much . Best tutorial 👌👍
Glad it helped
You have a TALENT for teaching, this is exactly what i needed and I understood everything. Thank you so much bro!!
The best explanation of thermostat wiring. Thank you for educating me, Sir
Glad it helped
You can tell when someone is a G at what they do when they lay it down like this! Majority of the time wiring is just 1 point 2 another and ends up making sense at the end of the day. But having someone lay it out like this it sure does make it easier to learn.
Thank you, brother.
Best explanation I have ever seen on this subject. Thank you.
You're welcome!
Hey Mike just wanted to thank you for the information. I enjoy your videos and think they are some of the best ones out there. Thanks again
You're very welcome.
I’ve been installing in California for about a year now, you’re videos have helped my whole journey. thanks brother
Just letting me know that helps my journey too. Thank you brother.
This video is awesome‼️
I just wanted to say thank you so much for making it!!!! because of this video I wired two AC systems in my house with a Wi-Fi setup and they are working perfectly!‼️🍻👍🏻👍🏻
Good job.
Got the same stat my wire is pink no idea they are the same Honeywell new one has more buttons almost 200 bucks I don't wanna f it up ugh
Very well done! Very clear and concise explanation. Great job!
Thanks so much for this video! This is exactly what I was looking for. This really explains everything. I have 2 systems with 2 different transformers but maybe you can include using a “relay in a box” to keep them separated when your thermostat only has a single “r” terminal.
Super clear explanation. I was hoping you were going to talk about that “different animal”… the heat pump wiring…
I have several videos where I get deep into that.
ruclips.net/video/_38t-RPiDwI/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/gBJzVV7fm_M/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/F88Y9NkvtQw/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/AMUU3EQ3qLs/видео.html
Great explanation. Easy to understand and follow. Thank You.
That was quite informative. I have a diesel heater which has its own sort of thermostat. By sort of I mean when it reaches a certain temperature it just goes to the lowest setting. They make programmable thermostats that can intercept the wireless control signal for the diesel heater and use it to manipulate the off and on buttons. This allows a person to have an actual thermostat that turns the unit off when it reaches temperature. The concept is quite simple but the aftermarket thermostat is an additional $50. Some folks wire up a standard furnace thermostat to the contact points of the diesel heater's remote switch and use a 12-volt power supply to send a signal (power) to the diesel heater's remote switch. The diesel heater remote switch will time out after 10 seconds, so they can send power to the on button to turn the unit on and when the room temperature is satisfied it sends power to the off button. It seems to me this could be accomplished without a separate 12 volt power supply. I'm not really sure but I'll have to watch your video a few more times to see if a regular thermostat can trigger (close) one circuit (on) when it needs heat and close another circuit (off) when it reaches temperature and is ready to shut down the machine (essentially activating the off button on the diesel heater remote). Your explanations were very clear and I appreciate your professional knowledge. Thanks.
I just bought a relay that can work with 12-24 volts ac or DC. With that you can run a regular tstat off of a 24 circuit to activate the relay and send 12vdc to the switching side of the relay to control the heater.
Normally open and normally closed can be used to toggle.
@@JerseyMikeHVAC I also have a couple of those small relays that I used to trigger my plasma cutter when I built a CNC table for it. It's a normally open and closes the contact when it receives a power signal. I was trying to rattle my marbles together to figure out how to incorporate that device. For me it usually takes quite some time before my brain can wrap around how everything works. I know the solution is there somewhere I just have to comprehend it. Thanks for the reply.
"You're gonna let some smoke out of a lot of components ." Had me rollin 😆 thanks
Excellent description - Thank You Jersey Mike!!
What I have found, is that HVAC Guys do what they want, when possible !
Not sure what they're thinking is, but likely as long as the same wire is connected to the Thermostat, and then to the control board, thats all that matters, apparently to them !
It's as if, they make it their own !
Especially if they do the installation !
As if they will be the only ones to service the system !
I found this out the hard way !
Thinking I could do a quick and simple Thermostat change !
Fortunately I was smart enough to take a before picture with my phone, of the wiring scheme !
Which turned out to be a Life saver !
I didn't agree with what I saw, but took the, " When in Rome " stance !
Most importantly, it worked, and you can't argue with success !
I can think of a lot of names for the initial install, but not here !
😂🤣😂
Thank you Sir, you made this easy to understand...
Great job as usual mike, keep up the great work
You are an awesome teacher. Thanks for this.
You're welcome
Best explanation I have come across🎉🎉🎉🎉
By far the best video I've watched on how to wire a furnace. I wish that I could do a video call with you because I had a circuit board that went bad and one next door out of a furnace that was free and I'm trying to wire it up and make it work except it's a little bit different then the circuit board that is smoked.
The only thing I wish your video had also is how each of the other components turn on and what sequence is used and possibly what the ohms are for each sensor. Kinda know what I'm doing, but first time fucking with furnace. Also GF is cold.
Really good video, and I will be subscribing
Great video. Learned a lot, thank you.
Excellent video. How do I connect a thermostat with NC, NO, COM to a control board with R W and C (24v power)?
Love u say r to r etc takes priority over color code, cause I had someone wire an air conditioner in 2002 who thought it was 1950 apparently used blue for power gave me a massive headache till i spent hours ohming it out to find out was connected to the r terminal
Yup. Had one situation where somebody ran 3 sets of 2 wire instead of just running one 6 wire. All of the wires were just red and white.
Simple to the point clear explanation
This is very informative and consolidated my knowledge of the wiring. This pretty much describes the same wiring as my Goodman furnace/ac setup. The only difference is my G terminal is wired to an external switch system that controls my central exhaust fan (R and G). Whenever I turn on a bathroom fan switch, it turns on my central exhaust fan but also turns on my blower motor through some kind of relay. I wonder if I can still connect another G wire from my thermostat to the G terminal to be able to use the circulation feature while still having my exhaust fan system wired to the blower as well...
This video is absolutely awesome.
Exceptional tutorial very helpfull and easy to follow.
Explained very well 👏
Thank you for this! Totally understand it now. Thanks again
No problem
wow ,super informative. .that totally put my brain at ease..gonna tackle thermostat now.that i understand., thank you for that great video my man
No problem
Great video better then most i appreciate this 💯👍
Thank you. Appreciate you.
Just started watching your videos really enjoyed the content love this channel already
Awesome! Thank you.
Informative video, thank you 💡
My pleasure!
thanks - very detailed, interesting and informative.
Very helpful video thanks Mike🎉🎉🎉
No problem!
Great explanation!
I would give this videos 10 thumbs up if there is such option.
Very informative video !! Definitely been explained here the best that I have heard unfortunately it doesn't answer the question that I am in pursuit of which is for a dual stage blower motor.
I have been looking all over the place and cant figure it out i'm already three hours down the rabbit hole ...*( and no money to call an AC tec to fix ...
What exactly are you trying to figure out and what is the model # system do you have?
@@JerseyMikeHVAC how can I email you with pictures ??
@@lordvader2681 mjrusso@protonmail.com
I have a control board like the one you're mentioning in your video, how do I connect my Nest power connector to my furnace if I don't have a terminal block on my control board?
Thanks bro! GREAT VIDEO!!!
Glad you liked it!
thank you for the video,im trying to hook up a honeywell t9 on my older lennox ac unit and am having a hard time
Very informative 👏🏿 thank for sharing
You're welcome
Thx for your informative vids keep ‘em coming. Did you do a video on correct wiring for a 2 stage furnace?
thank you brother that is really good stuff to know god bless...
Excellent job
This just made it click! Ty my friend
You're welcome
Mike, is the orders: 1.transformer powers board, 2. Red wire is the only wire energized to thermostat 3.other wires are energized returning to board according to call.
Is "red" wire only supply voltage to thermostat?
Could u do a video on low voltage side of transformer supplying voltage to board?
Is my thinking correct or incorrect?
Thank you for good videos!
Man I could really use you help. I wish there was a place where I can send you pics.
Outstanding video.
Well done j m 👍❤️🙏
Thank you
Would it be best to verify the furnace at the board? Take a picture of the wiring then apply it to the thermostat for correct wiring?
Absolutely. Yes. You just have to be careful because terminals at the board can have wires from other places than the thermostat (like a condensing unit or a humidifier, for example) so just make sure you know which collection of wires actually go to the thermostat.
The circuit board at the furnace wouldn’t lie as long as you’re reading the right part of the circuit board connections I would think and you have 2 wires at the contractor that’s your 24 volts to turn on your outside unit witch causes your contactor to complete the circuit you should be a professor 👍
Yes sir. You got it.
No thank you boss
Nicely done ... Thx
Youre most welcome
Awesome video
Thanks!
very helpful, thank you so much!
You're welcome!
Great content mate 👍
Thanks 👍
Hi was wondering if you can help me with finding a thermostat on my rv I have the RH RC not to sure what to look for and I’ve been told to get a programmable thermostat
I set my thermostat to heat mode. Adjust thermostat to 70° furnace. Lights comes on blows heat into the house reaches setpoint turns off, but does not continue to run and blow access heat out of the heat exchanger and trips on high limit. Is my problem control board or thermostat.
Informative, and clear
Thank you
Thank you sir very helpful
Great video. I have the RC RH Separate system with no jumper wire as you stated. If I wanted to add a common wire because there is none connected to my thermostat now for the purpose of installing a smart thermostat. How can I go about doing that? Thanks.
Most smart thermostats working on 2 transformer set ups like yours will charge off of the cooling system (Rc terminal and Common). You'll want to see if you have an unused wire on the thermostat wires from your AC system and use that as a common connection between the AC control board and thermostat.
FYI, for Ecobees the PEK kit will not work on a 2 transformer system if you don't have a common wire available.
@@JerseyMikeHVAC I'll look to see if a common wire is present. Thank you.
PS
The theme is a 4 wire system. It has white Red green and yellow. It has no other wire that you can hook to . In the unit there a O wire on the broad that other wire come from the side of that main A/C breaker or it called the main contact comes off the side. So do I need either one or can I hook them up to any of the four wires that hooks up to the thermostat.
after watching a few times i now understand what all the wires do,im just having a tough time wrapping my head around what i can do to install this C adapter for the homeywell T9,i have an okder lennox ac with no Y terminal,my tstat is a 3 wire cooling only so i have R,W and G wires,it tells me in the C adapter manual if i have no Y terminal it wont work for my system,im figuring if i can use another terminal to "fool"it maybe i can get this thing to work,im going to go back and study your video some more thanks
The white wire should be in your Y terminal at the thermostat (originally). That is your Y wire. You don't need W.
At the other end of that white wire at the air handler, that white wire will connect directly to another wire that goes straight out to your outside unit. You can try to use that wire as your "Y terminal". The other wire from the outdoor unit is a common wire coming back and should land inside the air handler.
Make sure you remember the original wiring because you'll have to put it all back if that doesn't work.
I have a 5 wire older system that I'd like to connect to a newer smart thermostat. You gave an excellent description of the Rc and Rh wires, however I have a red wire to Rh and blue wire to Rc. Blue wire I assumed was a Control wire but I feel I should follow the existing configuration. Without a control wire, this limits my options for a smart thermostat, unless i want to add the Control. Is the configuration of my wires correct to follow as is, with blue to Rc? Thank you.
Yes. Wire it the same way. All the blue wire means is that the original technician who wired it decided to use blue for AC control power (to Rc terminal) to distinguish it from the red for heating power (to Rh terminal).
Very interesting...love the channel 👍
Thank you, brother.
Amazing thank you for share.
My pleasure
Hey Jersey Mike enjoy your videos very much. Very informative but I do have a question about the rc and rh terminal which I do understand about heating and cooling. I have two zone heating gas hot water baseboard with a heating only two wire thermostat down stairs and my other thermostat upstairs is heating and cooling with unit in attic . My question Mike is this the upstairs thermostat is wired as this I have a red wire on my rc for cooling and a red wire on w then I have a white wire on r which would be for heat then I have a yellow wire on y and then a green wire on g . Everything seems to be working fine except when I turn on cooling my fan is set to auto which comes on automatically I don’t believe I can just run my fan independently. If I put in a nest thermostat should I put the two red wires to rc and rh and put the white wire to w if everything seems to be running okay.
Or should I wire up the nest thermostat the way it’s wired up now. Any help I would appreciate
All they did was reverse the red and white for heating, but you're just closing a simple circuit so it doesn't matter. You can keep the wiring as is or switch the red and white so the white goes to W and the red to Rh (which is conventional color code wiring).
Only thing with the nest is that if it needs a common wire that common has to come off the AC system, not the boiler. Nests charge off of the Rc.
Damn you are good! thanks
Hello I have a problem. The colors on the wires have been worn out so they are all the same brownish orange color. Except the red wire. My furnace is for both HVAC Unit. Don't know how to change them.
What are you changing?
I will be changing the thermostat tomorrow when it arrives. I took a look in the thermostat and realized some of the wires are old and worn out so the colors are worn out. Except the red one. Still functions well.
@@samshepard8234 best thing is to just label each wire according to what terminal it lands on and use the same terminals on the new stat.
or, if there is enough slack in the wire, you can pull it out and pull back the outer jacket to where it isn't faded.
Good idea I'll try that. Thanks a lot for your advice!
My system is a forced air & heating system and my old thermostat (non-progamable) has a jumper wire connected to Rc/RH. My new non-programable Emerson 80 series 1F83C-11NP thermostat came with a tiny jumper wire already connected to the board of the thermostat. Can I just throw the old jumper wire out or do I cut the new jumper wire and use the old one on the new connectors or it doesn't matter which jumper wire gets used? I'm thinking it doesn't matter which one I use based on this video and others I have come across.
You shouldn't need to remove the jumper in the new stat in favor of the old one. They serve the same purpose.
@@JerseyMikeHVAC Thank you, that's what I thought
Very good explanation on how that works. Where is the actual 24volt made at? I thought it was generated by the coil in the contact. Can you clarify that for me? Well folks I don't think you will find a better explanation out there. So lets give him a thumbs up and subscribe for this great video. Thanks to all.
Thank you. The 24 volts that pulls in the contactor is part of the low voltage control circuit that begins with a step-down transformer located in the indoor unit. The transformer steals 24 volts from the same 220 volts (sometimes 120 V) that the main blower in the sir handler needs to run on. It then sends that 24 volts to the control board, and from there it goes to the thermostat's R terminal.
When the T-stat calls for cooling, it will send that same 24v to the Y terminal in the stat, which then eventually goes out to the contactor. Inside the contactor there is what's called an electromagnetic coil. When 24 volts runs through it, it creates a magnetic field, which pulls in the contactor like a regular magnet. The outdoor unit then turns on.
When the t-stat stops the call for cooling, it stops sending 24v to the contactor, that loss of voltage makes the magnetic field disappear and small springs inside the contactor then push the contactor back open again to shut the outdoor unit down.
Thank you solved my issue
Hi Mike, So right now I have a Trane VX95 and a Carrier A/C with only three wires going to the T-stat (wire in the wall has 6 leads) where the red is connected to R terminal , Black to B/C terminal and white to the W1 terminal. I would like to hook up a Honeywell TH6320ZW2003 T6 Pro Series T-stat . The terminals on the furnace panel currently attached are W2-Blue, W-White, R-Red, G-green, B/C-Black (and white A/C wire), Y- yellow (and Red A/C wire). So I'm confused as which I should connect? My thinking is W-W1, B/C to C, R-R, Y-Y. would this be correct? thanks
WHat are you using as your primary source of heat? Furnace or the heat pump?
I ask because Honeywell says not to use the W terminal on their stats with heat pump applications. I recently had to disconnect a wire to the W terminal after someone hooked it up there because the heat strips would never shut off. Ran up an $800 electric bill. I had to disconnect that wire, which was also a Carrier heat pump with the Honeywell T6 stat.
mike I have 2 red wires on my control board one red out of control board going to red or thermostat and a red and yellow wire one the y terminal on my control board I don't know why@@JerseyMikeHVAC
Yellow wire to Y is the call for cooling from the thermostat. Y terminal on control board activates air handler for cooling mode. Red wire off of Y terminal goes to a contactor on the outdoor unit which turns on the compressor and fan motor out there.
The control board in my air handler doesn’t have a yellow wire or yellow terminal. It’s just R C G W2 W1
How would I connect my fan?
On some models the Y wire from the thermostat runs directly to the outside unit and doesn't go to the control board on the indoor unit. Once it activates the outdoor contactor to turn the outdoor unit on, the Y wires returns back to the indoor unit as a common wire connected to C.
In furnaces w1 black and w2 white wire so in google tharmostat gen3 w1 black and w2 connect ?
Yes, black was used for 1st stage heat and white for second stage.
@JerseyMikeHVAC okay
Thank you
If you have no C wire running to stat will the wires show 24 when disconnected from the thermostat?
Only the R wire will show voltage. Any other wire can act as a substitute common just for the purpose of getting a reading on the multimeter.
@@JerseyMikeHVAC Thanks! Can I get by with now C wire with the sensi stat with batteries? My nest failed on me after 3 years. Kept getting E 74
Yes if it accepts batteries it should work as advertised
@@JerseyMikeHVAC Thanks please keep the videos coming they are very helpful!
Had a HVAC tech come out yesterday because the board blew two fuses and blower and compressor would not start. He found a shorted wire between stat and furnace. No I have new wires and a C wire!
My condenser needs y,c,r what I should do?
My control board doesn't have a wire connected to Y. I have central ac and furance. I only have wires for W R G C. Why is that ?
There are some systems that send the Y signal for cooling straight out to the condensing unit outside and it comes back to the air handler as a common.
can you explain why im not getting 24v at R on the control board but im getting 28v coming out of the transformer, im only getting 2.2v at the R terminal
If it's a furnace, there is often a high temperature limit switch or flame roll outs located in the circuit between the transformer and the R terminal on the board. If one of those are open, you won't get 24 at the R terminal on the board. Assuming the 3 or 5 amp fuse on the board is not blown.
I have red white only from thermostat to board .recently my 7505b gensy Burdette box had no power got new box same problem no motor power just blower runs no heat I put red white together to test one theory still no power also condenser is good sensors good still no heat , help????????
Awesome video. What happens when you have three wires on a terminal in a control board? I have three on my c terminal from thermostat, condenser, and humidifier.
A lot of guys will steal 24 volts off of a yellow wire that proves the pressure switch for the 24 volts needed to operate the humidifier solenoid. The common at C just completes that circuit.
C from the thermostat completes the circuit needed to charge the stat.
C from condenser is to complete the 24v circuit that engages the contactor to turn on the outdoor unit.
@@JerseyMikeHVAC that is exactly what they did. So it is fine to have 3 wires at the c terminal and can't hurt the board. Can the just be all connected at the screw or would a wago or wire nut be better? Thanks again.
@lukeleiden197 It won't hurt the board, but I would prefer to use a wire but to tie them together with only one wire on the terminal. Don't like the wago connectors. Electrician friend of mine doesn't advise using them.