Thank you for the video helped my wife and I who were cooking as our anticipator needed adjustment. doesn't begin until I know what it did. Thank you again.
So the anticipator is really a heater that heats up in proportion to the current passing through it, which is only on when the thermostat is on. Current in the anticpator is governed primarily by other things than the anticipator itself, mostly what the gas valve takes. To have the anticipator generate the right amount of heat, the adjustment for it is marked where it should be for a given current. By putting the adjuster on a higher mark than that, the heat it generates is actually reduced, so the anticipator ends up letting the thermostat stay on longer. More heat means it will take longer (than with the normal calibration) for the building to cool down to where the thermostat goes on again.
I have and old wall heater I turned on the pilot and was able to use it for a while. Today I tried to use it and only the pilot light stays on but the heater won’t engage. I think the thermostat must of gotten messed up.
First try something simple. Move the thermostat up and down several times. If the unit starts, the thermostat is not making good contact. If the thermostat has points, they can be cleaned with a piece of cardboard. GFM
Why do it this way when they could've just calibrated the 'stat differently? For example, if a person just sets it to 69 knowing that it'll keep going to 70, or just building that offset into the 'stat?
The problem with that is mechanical thermostats are mechanical. There is resistance to movement. The anticipator is designed to eliminate that lag. GFM
@@grayfurnaceman: No, I mean by something as simple as printing the temperature ticks a little lower by a degree or so (not adjustable) or by turning the whole bimetallic strip in the compensating direction by that amount with respect to the handle (adjustable), etc.
@@HelloKittyFanMan.. Its not that simple. For an understanding of the anticipator and its function, this series of videos may help: ruclips.net/video/atTh2WKUk9E/видео.html GFM
@@HelloKittyFanMan.. Doing it that way would only address one end of the cycle. By setting the stat to 69 instead of 70, yes the heat will cutout before it overheats the room, however it will allow the room to become even colder than it already was once the heater shuts off. What used to be a 2 degree delay now becomes 3.
Below the anticipator and underneath the clear plastic cap is the contact forks. Between the forks is a thin piece of metal that prevents the forks from coming in direct contact with the magnets. When that thin piece breaks, you’ll know it because your heat will rise 10-15 degrees above set temp and then drop 10-15 degrees below set temp. This cycle will continue because it now takes much more force from the bimetal to pull the contact fork away from the magnets. If your heat is fluctuating wildly, look inside the plastic cap for a small square piece of metal laying in the bottom or even on the floor below. No fix for it, time for a new thermostat.
My fan keeps working all the time. It blows hot air and later it blows cold air for sometime. And again back to hot air. Why don't the fan stop for a bit at least? If the fan keeps running won't it broke.....?
@@MrNeisonpromise You probably have a fan switch stuck on. If the furnace is over 30 years old, it may have a heat operated fan switch that needs replacing. To do a quick diagnosis, hit the side of the furnace sharply. If the fan shuts off, the fan has been sticking. If not, it is still probably the fan switch. In any case, it will have to be replaced. GFM
@@grayfurnaceman the funny strange thing is that when I change the humidifier setting the fan stops and switches on between. That's the only time when the fan turns off and on between. So I'm confused. My thermostat is the third one that is shown in your video ( out of three thermostats you displayed in the row.). Can you tell me what number do I have to keep my humidifier always on during winter or in respect to temperature.....!
Thank you for the video helped my wife and I who were cooking as our anticipator needed adjustment. doesn't begin until I know what it did. Thank you again.
So the anticipator is really a heater that heats up in proportion to the current passing through it, which is only on when the thermostat is on. Current in the anticpator is governed primarily by other things than the anticipator itself, mostly what the gas valve takes. To have the anticipator generate the right amount of heat, the adjustment for it is marked where it should be for a given current. By putting the adjuster on a higher mark than that, the heat it generates is actually reduced, so the anticipator ends up letting the thermostat stay on longer. More heat means it will take longer (than with the normal calibration) for the building to cool down to where the thermostat goes on again.
That's pretty much it.
GFM
thank you for all of the videos.
Welcome
GFM
What 's a great instructor.
I have and old wall heater I turned on the pilot and was able to use it for a while. Today I tried to use it and only the pilot light stays on but the heater won’t engage. I think the thermostat must of gotten messed up.
First try something simple. Move the thermostat up and down several times. If the unit starts, the thermostat is not making good contact. If the thermostat has points, they can be cleaned with a piece of cardboard.
GFM
Its good to win
GFM
Why do it this way when they could've just calibrated the 'stat differently? For example, if a person just sets it to 69 knowing that it'll keep going to 70, or just building that offset into the 'stat?
The problem with that is mechanical thermostats are mechanical. There is resistance to movement. The anticipator is designed to eliminate that lag.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman: No, I mean by something as simple as printing the temperature ticks a little lower by a degree or so (not adjustable) or by turning the whole bimetallic strip in the compensating direction by that amount with respect to the handle (adjustable), etc.
@@HelloKittyFanMan.. Its not that simple. For an understanding of the anticipator and its function, this series of videos may help: ruclips.net/video/atTh2WKUk9E/видео.html
GFM
@@HelloKittyFanMan.. Doing it that way would only address one end of the cycle. By setting the stat to 69 instead of 70, yes the heat will cutout before it overheats the room, however it will allow the room to become even colder than it already was once the heater shuts off. What used to be a 2 degree delay now becomes 3.
Below the anticipator and underneath the clear plastic cap is the contact forks. Between the forks is a thin piece of metal that prevents the forks from coming in direct contact with the magnets. When that thin piece breaks, you’ll know it because your heat will rise 10-15 degrees above set temp and then drop 10-15 degrees below set temp. This cycle will continue because it now takes much more force from the bimetal to pull the contact fork away from the magnets. If your heat is fluctuating wildly, look inside the plastic cap for a small square piece of metal laying in the bottom or even on the floor below. No fix for it, time for a new thermostat.
GFM can you do a video on pneumatic thermostats?
I am planning on doing some on pneumatics but I have not gathered up enough equipment yet.
GFM
Won't this create more cycles, less efficiency?
If done properly, it eliminates the temp getting too high, then too low which will decrease efficiency.
GFM
My Thermostat is stuck on 70°. I heard that i need to reset it but i have no idea how. help? its an old White rodgers
I trying my hardest to fix my gas furnace it's so cold in my house everything is workin but still cold in my house and i need help
Give me some symptoms.
GFM
Blowing cold to warm air
@@grayfurnaceman blowing warm to cold air
@@brandonchavez8355 I would be looking at air flow. Plugged filter, dirty blower wheel, plugged A/C coil, collapsed ductwork.
GFM
Good explanation. Thanks
+AbuserTube Welcome
GFM
Where is the fan auto and on setting in these thermostats?
These thermostats are heat only. The cheapest of the cheap.
GFM
My fan keeps working all the time. It blows hot air and later it blows cold air for sometime. And again back to hot air. Why don't the fan stop for a bit at least? If the fan keeps running won't it broke.....?
@@MrNeisonpromise You probably have a fan switch stuck on. If the furnace is over 30 years old, it may have a heat operated fan switch that needs replacing. To do a quick diagnosis, hit the side of the furnace sharply. If the fan shuts off, the fan has been sticking. If not, it is still probably the fan switch. In any case, it will have to be replaced.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman the funny strange thing is that when I change the humidifier setting the fan stops and switches on between. That's the only time when the fan turns off and on between. So I'm confused. My thermostat is the third one that is shown in your video ( out of three thermostats you displayed in the row.). Can you tell me what number do I have to keep my humidifier always on during winter or in respect to temperature.....!
Mechanical thermostats waste energy and are inaccurate so buy a digital thermostat, they are only $13USD and they are easier to read.
what u have a strat that does not have no anticipater? how do adj. it?