Buying A BMW E39 5 Series? You NEED TO WATCH THIS FIRST !!!
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- Опубликовано: 7 фев 2025
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Buying A BMW E39 5 Series? You NEED TO WATCH THIS FIRST !!!
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I’ve bought an E39 2002 Four years ago. I thought I was going to have all kinds of problems but still bought the car because I love the way it feels and looks. To my surprise, four years later and 40,000 miles later, I’ve barely had any problems with the car. The car runs great, it’s a joy to ride and I’ve spent altogether less than $1500 over the four years with many repairs and maintenance.I must be doing something right or I’m just plain lucky. But my experience has been excellent with this vehicle. With that said, I never take it to the dealership. I’ve got my own German mechanic. I think that helps.
Lucky....lol
They’re not hard to work on tbh
My 2002 530i was $1000. Immaculate, garage kept, one owner. It had 54,538 miles on it. It needed an a/c charge for $80. The tires were weak so I put a new set on it. It's frankly gorgeous. Clean CarFax too. Oh, and I did have to fix the seat twist on the passenger side. Took 15 minutes.
Good job finding that deal. Low km clean examples ought to be expensive, not that cheap!
That goes for $6000 minimum in northwestern EU
I disagree with this video. I own a 98 528i, and its a Sherman Tank. I bought it brand new and started maintaining myself 8 years ago. It's an amazing ride and I commute 105 miles a day. Look forward to the ride in the morning with my cup of coffee and seeing the sunrise. It's a smooth and solid ride. It has got to be one of the safest and finest cars to drive in the rain.
For a m52 as it gets from 150k to 180k you will need a
fuel pump
vanos seals
cam sensor
crank sensor
coil packs
cracked valve cover
many water pumps and idler pulleys
secondary air pump and hoses
2 or more ccv valves
throttle body boots
motor mounts
transmission solenids
drive shaft carter bearing
drive shaft guibo
many window regulators
outer door handles
radio pixels going out
possible water leaks fro sun roof or door panels which rots out the fuse box in passenger floor
rear passenger wheel bearing
rear upper control arms
all front control arms and tie rods
rack and pinion
abs module
abs sensors
radiator and almost all hoses
that is just a few things that will absolutely happen to your m52, and if you ever get it hot at all it will crack the cylinder head, I have owned around 20 cars with the m52 single vans engine over the years, the 99-03 will have a lot more issues , seat twisting more coolant leaks etc
Anecdotal evidence means nothing. Buying a car is like buying a lottery ticket. New or used.
@@NathansBMWWorkshop Funny, my s52 has been BULLET PROOF, can't say the same for my n52 and n54...
@@NathansBMWWorkshop I agree with above. Had an 01 E39 and nothing but problems after 10 yrs of ownership. Spent $6k in maintenance in last year of ownership.
Fair call out. I guess as an American, I’m not programmed to tell people I drive a Panzer.
One of my favorite things about my e39 is how the a/c blows, it’s the strongest out of any car I’ve owned lol, my issues so far have been bad pixels, the broken seat trim, driver side front ball joint, and the paint, other than that it’s pretty solid, smooth running, and quick for its size, I’m glad I didn’t get one until I had almost 20 years of driving under my belt, if I was a new driver I don’t think I would be as confident owning the car as I do
I bought a 535i for fun with the idea of just driving it till it dies :) that was 2 years ago and still going strong ha ha... just did oil changes and standard maintenance.. almost zero costs and still drives like a train
Its not to hevy for fun? Do you have manual?
These aren’t just your everyday economy car like a Honda, ford, Toyota and so on, they’re a high maintenance and expensive car to own if you don’t know what you’re doing and don’t know how to take care of them, I had a 2000 528i and the guy I brought it off had no idea about them, i replaced the window regs, have it a service, new brakes, coilovers, tie rods and it was a perfect car again and I never had any issues, I paid $500 for it and sold it for 6k. Today I’m picking up a 530i m sport, immaculate, with 23000 k’s on the clock, basically a time capsule, just had a complete go over buy a bmw mechanic who reckons it’s like no other he has seen, if you spend the money you’ll find a good one, or if you know what you’re looking at and feeling you can pick one up really cheap if you know what to fix.. and they’re actually a great car
It's not a Camry. That's why I have one.
I bought mine crazy cheap and is in good shape and runs great! I did have to fix a few things here and there. Thanks to your videos.
Same here I bought mine for a pretty cheap and in good shape thanks to your videos. Thanks Nate.
Thinking of buying one, how much total do u think I'll spend on car + fixes generally? For a used one by 1 car owner no accidents
I bought 540i 2002 for 2,700 and i spend 15,000 on fix!! But now its kind like a brand brand new!! Runs. Really really good!! No regrets!!
No regrets on spending 5 times the value of the car
Is for my personal pleasure#!! Not for business!!
Pendejo
Roverto salas so any body who rebuild any kind of car just because they wanted is stupid??? You are stupid !!
@@damianlugocantu9623 I mean 15 grand will buy you a nice bmw e92 m3, you don't even own an M
I don't think the e39 is any more of a problem than another series. You could run the same recording on the e90 and have a list of equal length of issues or potential ones. End of the day it's about how cool your beemer looks and drives.
yes
I bought one without fully looking into them. Got it for 1k but it did have a few gremlins here and there . i am a diy type of guy and i love how easy most parts are easily accessible to work on.
Ok i have to be honest about 80-85% of what you said are things you should watch out for on any car.
And from what I know the 520i is one of the most reliable cars bmw ever made.
At least from experience.
Around 400k km and the only major issue it had was an electric component, the exhaust rusting through on one spot and rust on the trunk.
Just bought a 520i with 198k km, fingers crossed!
My '98 528i, with manual transmission, drives better than my '07 328 or my '11 528i.
I picked it up for $1500 two yrs ago. Most things work, but not all the time, but the drive is great.
Owned a 99 540i (v8) for about 6-7 years now and I do have to say it's been one hell of a "ride" both good & bad. That being said, when it's right, amazing car to own. The bad however is as Nathan said a moneypit. Really just a matter of if you have the money and more importantly the know-how to fix things yourself. These are old cars in 2019... Regardless it's a modern classic and an absolute joy when it works correctly.
im thinking of getting one. 2001 540ia, major things like timing chains are done and regular maintainace was done as well. car have 195,000 km on it. idk if I should get it
@@inouske2975did you get it? I’m going to look at a 540 today
My first bmw was a 98 528i with 147k miles
Salvaged for 1200
Honestly I’ve owned 3 bmw since then
1st - 98 e39 528i, 2nd - 07 e60 530i, 3rd - 05 e60 525i, and my latest car 4th - 02 e46 330ci
I love the e60 so much and my new 330ci is pretty dope
But man the sheer comfort and how smooth the e39 travels is unmatched
It’s crazy every one you meet that drives a e39 says they love it
Something about the e39 that gives it a soul and see why people fall inlove with it , knowing at any moment an expensive repair might be one the way
Looking to get a e39 530i soon
Great video lots of info I can use when checking out my next e39
I only drive BMW’s 💯
We never face Those failures here in Europe 😏
And we always are about a 1 000 000 kilometers behind aswell.
@Denkste i bought mine in EU for 2 grand, it has recaro alcantara interior, style 66 m wheels, and has no rust which is insane, and the car it self is like 8.5/10 imo, it's insane how cheap they getting out here
@@vitalisdeikus5812 what country did you buy it from? Not easy to find one without rust in my country because too much salt on the winter roads..
Idk about yall but I'm owning one for like 7 years never had a problem with it now I'm starting to tune it
Giving pricing information is useless. It depends on a lot of factors. If you say "An E39 M5 will go for $14K", what does that mean? The range of E39 M5 is from $8,000 - $176,000. I know this video is about E39 530 and 540, but I would never give a range on prices. And yes, receipts are a good indicator of what has been done. If service is done at a dealership, they will use OE parts. Very valuable in the purchase factor.
2002 530, bought at 155,000 km's in 2017, 200,000km's now. Beautiful car to drive and own. No smoke, knocks or rattles, drives tighter than a Toyota with half the mileage. I've owned a lot of cars, this is one of my favorites...nah, its my fave.
Ahh this is the dream. How did you find it or maintain it to drive so well? So many people with problems. Any advice for a used car buyer like me?
@@jlee5490 First thing is to be patient, don't rush into it. Scope the market well in your area so you can get a gauge of condition vs cost.
When you go to view, make sure the log books show regular on time servicing with the correct oil. Super important with German cars. Same goes for the transmission.
When it comes to inspecting take someone who knows cars well. Mechanic mates are great!
Look closely at everything!! Panels, door rubbers, bumpers, lights (hazing and function). Check the electric windows all work, door handles and seat belts operate correctly etc. Make sure you check the electric seat functions, the cables were made a little short and can come out of the motors.
Check for oil leaks top and bottom, front and rear. Rocker covers, dip stick holder o rings, oil low sensor (bottom of sump) are common leaks.
Look under the oil filler cap for sludge, if there is any, don't buy it. Same goes for the coolant res. (make sure the motor is cool before doing this).
When you start up, listen. Engine should be smooth with with the injectors being the only tick.
Carefully open the oil filler when idling and check for fuming. No fumes is good fumes. Same goes for the exhaust but don't confuse fumes for water vapour which is normal when cold.
The steering should be tight with little or no play in the steering wheel.
During the road test try to simulate a broad range of driving conditions, bumpy, winding, up hills.
Listen and feel the car! It will tell you if something is loose or worn.
Good luck, I hope this helps.
@@dianepracy2754 Wow thanks so much for this list. I wish you were coming with me to check out some BMW's! I was going to pounce on the first 2003 BMW 540i I saw at 155k miles (Asking $6k). It's in pristine condition but I don't know anything about engines/transmissions. Since I can't test everything you said - do you recommend I take it to a certified mechanic to inspect it? Thank you again!
@@jlee5490 It is definitely worth getting a mechanical inspection if you are unsure.
The V8's have a few extra things to look out for, namely the timing chain guides suffering premature failure. Again, regular servicing is a must. I have also heard that valve guide seals can be a problem on the 8's but I don't know if that affects e39's. This can be very costly.
Consider how much you actually want a V8. For most driving conditions a 530 is quite adequate and a great balance of power/ economy. The do lack a bit in the torque department which I notice when the car is loaded. Perfectly fine when it's just wifey and me (oh yeah, this is Di's hubby btw) but performance drops off noticeably with adults in the back seat.
Consider also if you want the m sport package or not. Do you prefer a more comfortable ride or something a little stiffer for fun cornering. The standard suspension offers pretty reasonable handling but is a little soft in the rear when getting serious in the windies or at high speed cornering. I ended up with a 530i mainly because the m sports that I road tested had all been thrashed. I console myself with the knowledge that my car had not been thrashed and that I love the color, anthracite, which is really rare down here in Oz.
@@dianepracy2754 LOL I was like this lady is super knowledgeable about cars. I took the m-sport 2003 540i today for a test drive. The original owner took such great care of the car. It accelerated with ease and snappiness, hit 60mph in few seconds. All the electronics worked, AC blasted perfectly, little cloudy on right front light, exhaust smelled normal no smoke, sun roof worked perfectly. All windows worked. Brakes were a little shaky and weak. Leather and paint outside looks like a 60k mileage car, it's at 155k. Here are some pics: www.reddit.com/r/e39/comments/iobt0a/help_buying_used_2003_bmw_540i_155k_miles/
Talked with Brad at AutohausAZ when replacing the front struts on our E39 Touring. I hope he doesnt' mind me sharing his opinion, as a BMW parts expert. Now, I feel like this car is worth a lot of maintenance dollars because it is really a $40,000 car, and drives like one. Brad said he wanted to buy a new car, but when he drove the new ones, they don't drive any better and cost a LOT more than maintenance items on this 5 Series, so he is keeping his and doing upgrades. We have a big leak front and rear of engine, so we change its diaper every month or so. LOL Edit: I very fortunately had a buddy who is an expert at rehabbing German cars. He showed me how to replace most of the problem parts, esp the VANOS, which in this car was the first and only thing we had to fix in the first 5 years of driving.
My 528i M sport auto 1999 cost £1150 8 years ago and drives and looks like new. Inside and out perfect. Paid £1150 from a private sale near London. Every day I look at it even if I am not going anywhere as I just cannot believe such a bargain. Also I believe it is such a great looking car, designed by a Japanese guy not a German. 75 soon and hope this is my last ever car. My son does any maintenance. So yep just lucky. I believe eventually he will have it and treat it as a classic in the future.
buying one of thes, test drive was smooth, quick braking, not too loud when getting up. new transmission installed last year, motor has 178000 on it, 2003 530i. has oil/coolant leaks. i plan on putting some coin into it. getting it for $3000
Sounds like this guy bonds more with appliances like Toyotas, not cars like BMWs. Of course you have to maintain them and of course the parts and service aren't cheap. Nothing at the apex ever is.
I disagree with him totally. I have owned 2 530is that were great cars without all the issues, he went and found a Junker to point out issues. I presently own a 2003 BMW 530i and the reason I am not still driving the 2001 is because someone ran a redlight and totaled my car which had 148000 miles on it and the car was like new. He says a perfect 530i is worth $3500.00 then explain why after negotiation the insurance company gave me $9,000.00 plus my wrecked car? Their first offer was $8500.00. I have owned 10 BMWs restore 5 and my son has owned 6 and restored one an e30.I bet we know more about BMWs than he does. I have watched to many of his anti-BMW videos to believe anything he says. I will point out that the 3.00 engine used in the 2003 BMW was one of the best engines BMW ever developed research shows that. 08-07-2022
Battery. Alternator. Radiator. Water pump. Thermostat Upper radiator hose. Auxiliary temp sensor. Auxiliary cooling fan Camshaft position sensor. Serpentine belt pully next to the alternator. Oxygen sensor bank 1 oil pump spring .timing chain spring tentioner led power box . Hood latch caples . Recommend to spray some w40 on the metal were the hood insert locks .so when you pop your hood oped its lubricated an its easy to realse. If not some how the tention of the wire will brake the sliding mechanism an you wont be able to open you hood. An you be in for a ride trying to get your hood open. All that to say this if you can get a car for cheap an you can make your money back before it breaks down its a win but if you buy one an you have to put it money right from the start dont do it it will feel like a money pit . These cars take patients an alot of research to figuer out how to fix the its easy but challenging. Thats to the RUclipser putting out great contact on DIY vedio with out them. My BMW would been in a scarp yars two years later ..
Norway speaking. I have been driving Bmw since 1977. Without warrenty. I do no mekanic myself.l run the Bmw-s for many years. 2002-74, 320-81, 525i-91, 523i-97, 316i-97(compact). To day I have the-91(434 000 km), the-97(300 000km), the-97(compact)(260 000 km.)
There have been no touch on the motors. Only some plastic- and rubberparts have been changed.
Thanks Nathan, this video was super helpful. I have a 2001 BMW 540i M sport with 230k that needs a clutch, front/rear struts along with other miscellaneous items. I replaced the timing kit myself but I don't want to invest anymore money into it because it will exceed the value. Im glad I watched your video. Thanks again...
E39 is the best sedan ever built
I just bought a cheap high mileage M52TU 528i at auction that actually looked very straight very clean and ran pretty well (leaving the usual slick under the oil pan) and can completely agree there's a hell of a lot that can still need fixing. I was expecting to discover a reason why it was at a NR auction and it seems it was just the fixes it needed. I was quoted $6K at a shop as an incomplete list of jobs to pass roadworthy - but I have put on my big boy pants and attempted the work myself for about $1.5K in parts (and some tools) with only a couple suspension bits and what I'm hoping will fix the slick is the sump gasket and not the rear main - but it's been completely successful at being a learning experience as a trial run for the E34 540i that I want to learn more about maintaining (that actually IS appreciating in value, but that's irrelevant because I love driving that car so much.)
I am yet to find a car post 2000 that I find myself wanting to get in and drive. They're nice to sit in and full of toys but tbh they feel soulless and boring even when fast af and I feel like I'm surrounded by superficial touches engineered to look good, instead of precise engineering designed to BE good, like classic BMWs up to the mid 90s.
I bought a 2003 bmw 530I two years ago it had 239000 miles on it so far I put in about 20000 thousand miles on it its still holding strong .I payed 3500 for it . Just recently ive put in about another 2000 dollars on parts not labor . Cuz I do my own work . Bot a level 10 mechanic but if i can find a DIY video on youtube im up for the challenge. I can say once rhis emgine takes a shit on me like if the. Timming chain guide give up on me or something major i might have to retire the 23 year old car hope I don’t . I dont so speed racing in the streets just cus its a nice ride to cruise on. Parts iive fix since iwning the car .
Great video. I was given an ‘02 525 Touring with 221,000miles as a Christmas gift from some friends just before Christmas 2018 after my Camry was junked. It ran fine as is but in Jan. I had to replace the idler and tensioner pulleys and radiator, which he helped me do. Coolant system has stripped out bleeder, 1 broken fan blade. Starting now to get a slow oil pan leak, need to replace valve cover gasket and the front end needs the struts, super nice BMW wheels but tires are getting worn on the outside edge. AC and heat broken. Seats have the twists, some pixels out on displays, some janky stuff with lo-beams from angel eyes being added by someone else. Car overall is an absolute joy, sounds great on start up, no rust (FL car) averages 21.5 mpg with 93 octane and has started a love of BMWs for me!
The issues you are talking about are all pretty minor. Order the parts online, buy a case of beer, and have your friend over for a shop hand.
AC & Heat may well be bad seals in the heater valve. Also, check fuses in the glove box I think fuse 20 and 23. You have to twist the white nuts and pull the panel down with the glove box open. Stripped out bleeders may be contributing if system is not full. Change the thermostat and expansion tank with new bleeders and bleed system with car electrical in on with heat at 90F and fill expansion tank until the indicator is at the tank rim.
You might be able to fix display LCDs with a hair dryer and a pencil eraser. Otherwise there are aftermarket repair kits for this. Not really a BMW problem. Every LCD manufactured with conductive glue eventually develops this problem.
And Nathan , let me give you a big AMEN on "do not buy this car unless you are at least a 7/10 wrench." Work I just did on our Touring was about $3500 shop rate.
Bought a 2000 528i with 95000 miles on it for $2800 great condition, previous owners bought it new and took great care of it
Can I ask where u found it?
Found it on Autotrader
If you asking area it was in up in Eugene, Oregon
If $62 to fix both side seat trims with new OE BMW parts is very expensive you are buying the wrong car!
Well it is expensive when your car costs under $2k or under lol
Nathan's BMW Workshop thats a bad argument there. Its just the frame and engine that you are interested in when buying this and if u get that that cheap, a few bucks $69 or more is nothing compared to what you actually get out of the whole deal
Men i was about to buy one for $3200 with 79k miles
I have owned an e39 m52b20 for the last 1,5years / 25k km. 255km - 280km
Preventive rust treatment
Passanger seat bypass
2 speed sensors
thermostathousing
Radiator
Rear wheel bearing do to weird noise
Original coils, changed the plugs at 260k for preventive maintance as they were org as well. Always started, never an issue.
Im pretty happy with it so far, i do ofc everything myself.
Bought a 2001 530D Touring in 2007 with 64k miles for £10k. Good price but it was a manual and had cloth upholstery, definitely not top spec in the UK.
Apart from a blown turbo after about 5k miles, probably due to the car not having be used for 12 months or so, it has been ultra reliable. No rust, no trim damage, even the cupholders front and back work. Did have to have the stereo head (not satnav just radio/cd control/tape-deck business unit) repaired, common fault on the early business units.
In 2012 bought another 2001 530D Touring with about 80k miles for £2k. This had the favoured leather upholstery and 5 speed GM auto box. The bodywork was a little untidy (the previous owner was obviously careless at parking). Had the dreaded swirl flaps removed. Again the trim was in great condition with working cupholders. I've just had to have the tailgate wiring loom repaired where it goes through the right-hand tailgate hinge, a common fault due to a poor design.
Both of them now have about 165k miles still ultra reliable apart from phantom battery drain. Just had to service them (by a main dealer until 6-7 years ago, suprisingly cheap), replace water pumps, rebuild the lower front suspension on the manual (the auto probably wants doing soon).
Had two E34s before (the 520i Touring I still have and is waiting for me to finish a front suspension rebuild) and a 520i E30 Touring.
I bought the 520i E34 Touring in 1998 on the basis it would last me 10 years and do 250,000 miles. 23 years and 260,000 miles later the front suspension rebuild is the first bit of serious work I have had to do on it.
Now do all the maintenance ourselves, parts are easy to obtain and not expensive. even from a BMW dealer. The electronics are simple enough to analyse with a decent analysis tool and no need to worry about having control units, battery... coded to the car.
The 530Ds just soak up the miles on the motorway and are sporty enough on the wiggly bits. We have a 1,800 kilogram caravan and all that torque combined with the self-levelling suspension they are great tow cars
Love the video. I’m 18 and bought a 2000 540i sport 6 months ago after selling my 97 318ti and the difference in parts and gas is crazy and I new it was when i decided to get the 540 but damn(when you brought up the 540s I felt that😂) but Currently my 540 is throwing codes: p0443, p0303 and p0203 i know what the problems are just not a master bmw mechanic yet so if you have any information I would love to hear
Hey man just found your comment, the p0443 is the purge valve, locates on the front of the driver valve cover, p0303 is cylinder 3 misfire, which is the 3rd from the front on the passenger, p0203 is the injector code for cylinder 3 which is prob the connection where the harness snapped on the injector
Nathan's DIY Garage thanks for the info hopefully I can get these problems fixed soon keep posting videos they help a lot👍🏾👍🏾
Guy explains what to look for on literally any used german car ever
On my Bmw's from 1991, 1997, 1997 and on my two- stoke 1988 Trabant I use a lot of FluidFilm against rust.
Bought mine for $4k 2000 e39 540i this summer, mint condition but had put another $6k in repairs. Drive train, all mounts(allll), water pump, gasket covers, valley pan, thermostat, radiator hoses, fuses, spark plugs. But i bought knowing I would have to make repairs, I restore M40i and up M’s
Is it atleast manual, if so then it's maybe worth it but 6k in repairs? Done by yourself or a shop
Bmw M3 e46 nope not manual. If I wanted manual I would’ve bought a e39 M5 or I can always do a manual swapp when I’m ready. But this steptronic shift so smoothly and there only 9 left on the market of my year 540i and they all look like shit. Plus I manual swapped my e34 525i. But these cars are so dated it waste of time trying to shift manual, slow regardless.
Bmw M3 e46 the drive train, bushings and mounts was replaced by mechanic 👨🔧 for $1500 by the book charge (lame) because I have No lift to do it myself but the rest repairs is all the done by me. This car is really simple to work on just very time consuming to get the repairs with all the disconnecting. But in reality my repairs are $2000 because I do my own work. But by the book its over $6000 in repairs. Plus my spec is so amazing and rare.
Porsche Chevy
Since it’s a 2000 be prepared for a ABS/DSC module failure. 1999 - 2000 E39 models had problems with these.
J Gripen thanks but not my first rodeo. I have several mint Ms.
I have one. Absolutley have to be able to do all the work DIY. I do.
I make just over 100k and I want one for the nostalgia yet I could only imagine the woes that come with owning a older BMW😅
Just got one for free today. Previous owner said it had rod knock but also sat for 4 years. What do you think? I haven’t had the chance to start it myself yet
Abs module on the 2003 are a problem . Bmw moved it from under the glovebox in the earlier ones and put it beside the exhaust manifold , really stupid . My 2003 530i has only 14,000 miles on it .
The seat twist is the least of the problems with these. But they handle like nothing else. You can fix the seat twist for free.
I have an 03 (e39) 530i individual edition in Aegean blue. I've had it for 6 years or so and its been super reliable. 110k miles isn't too savage . The previous owner ruined the suspension with a shite after market suspension job, but I've since had it replaced by someone who knows what they are doing! its now running spot on and drives straight as it should. I had the module thing ( not sure exactly what its called ) in the auto gearbox replaced as it was a bit jerky selecting the gears , not cheap as the part and labour was £400 !
obviously i know jack diddly about fixing cars myself and i can see your point in the video about saving $ by having a good mechanical knowhow, however aside from regular maintenance and what I've mentioned its been a brilliant car so I've got no issues with throwing the money I've spent so far. its almost 20 years old after all. Still good advice , thanks
Always so fun to find these videos after buying one XD
I wanna buy a 2003 bmw 530i 166 on the dash I’m trying to figure if that’s a good buy
Just bought one same car same model 140k 03. Buy it
Bought one 60k 4.5k. I love it. The only issues in running into is the fact that I have to figure out to fix my pixel display. And then change all four Tires since the only person who ever owned my car drove it for less than 3k a year since 2003 and has 7 year old tires on it
@@christianmendoza2128 let me know if you figure out how to fix the pixel I just bought a 2003 530i m sport last week and it has an issue with the pixel where I can’t read the odometer and the radio
@@christianmendoza2128 just ran across one with 84000 miles for 4500
Good info Nathan.
Here's an idea for a future video: why buy a BMW in the first place? What makes a BMW different from say a GM or even a Mercedes? Why would it be worth it to keep fixing an E39, E60 or E90? To me it would be the driving experience, the comfort, styling, ergonomics and engineering. But you probably have a lot more to say on the subject. I think a positive video such as that would balance the usual cautionary videos. After all, there is a reason we are ready to put up with our aging cars, it would be nice to tell the world :) Love your content, have a great day.
My last car was a Lincoln LS; kissing cousin to the Jaguar S-Type. There is no contest between the quality of the Lincoln and our 535l's (2012 & 2014). It seems BMW's motto is why use a push-pin when a screw will do. BMW's quality is just superior.
@@michaelhall9138 I would agree with that although I do feel that older US cars like the Lincoln Mark VII were similar in fit-and-finish and build quality.
Don't get me started on Jaguars because English designed cars are always ... problematic.
Amazing detailed video. You are really good at explaining. I have very little car experience, thinking of getting a second hand one with 100k km on it. 2.5k euro. 12 year warranty at the dealer. Thing is, it’s in the south of Spain, where I’ll be using it. And it gets hot, desert hot. 40 degrees Celsius (sorry metric system in Europe). So if there are cooling issues this is going to be a difficult car to use probably. What do you think?
Well mines done 187000 miles... Just run in!!
And both of the cup holders will be broken
i have both my front cup holders AND rear cup holders intact.. even no pixel-errors on the display
Mine were all intact until my SO got ahold of the car. That said, if you're not a purist, there are aftermarket replacements on eBay that are molded specifically for the e39 that, in my opinion, are far better than the original cupholders and they only cost like $7.
I like keeping cars original but BMW really had a poor design on these "canned beverage holders" and at least for my daily driver... the aftermarket makes a good replacement. Snaps into the console over the original holders (I had to dremel off the pieces that would no longer close) and the plastics match the finish in the original car so if you had never been in one you wouldn't know they were not original.
The rear ones got covered with a piece of black electrical tape. If I had a need for regular cupholders in the back I'd probably seek a similar retrofit. The stock holders are garbage.
Having those pixel errors, know you said it was common issue. What’s the fix?
Do you have tips on how to fix my left rear back-up & brake lights? I got a new socket and bulb for them but it hasn’t solved the issue? My blinkers work but just when I’m braking and backing up doesn’t turn on
Nathan, since you will be doing an engine swap on this e39, I think it would be a great video series to go through the engine swap in detail. I know you have gone over the basics previously, but actually walking through doing it would probably be a huge draw to anyone undertaking this. (There are no good e39 engine swap videos on RUclips, some are partial, and some are just a stationary camera on timelapse with little to no dialogue.) Also a lot of the steps would be very similar to other models.
Best regards,
Paul
Best five series. But it's not old Toyota with oil change only. U must know the car and change parts (coolant system etc) before they brake. I own 2000 330i e46 for 3 years now, still love this car, love m54 engine for its simplicity comparing to newer N series. Every day my car runs over 90000 kilometers and never left me on the road. Nathan, thanks for nice videos. I realy want to buy low millage e39 from Japan no matter what it costs.
Like all your videos man, you are always upfront with the truth on various bmw models, the history of bmw problems hasn’t changed at all, I’ve yet to see a bimmer without a leaking engine.
Mine with 300k+ no leaks and no it's not out of oil.. regular basic maintenance is the key to survival ..
Nathan your awesome bro, I had messaged you a week or two ago via FB about a:
2003 BMW 525i M-Sport w/200k the guy was asking $760 and I wanted your opinion although I consider myself a level 7 on the mechanic line. Lol lol I was just gonna drop in a new engine and tran for $4K as my max cost to get it the way I want. Long story short seller wanted to up the price, told him to keep it. Turned around bought a 2011 328i M-Sport coupe instead. Thanks for the video upload and the thorough explanation most of which I already know but you always bring great perspectives to each situation and I appreciate your video blog! 👌🏿👍🏿🔧🔩🛠⚙️⛓
Glad it worked out, I have a lot of videos up for that e90 also
We have a 2003 530i which is in nice shape, is a joy to drive and (if you know what you are doing) is easy, inexpensive and (most of the time) quite gratifying to maintain. Then again I am a DIY retired guy.
Import a European made 540 and use castrol edge 5w-40 ONLY. Timing chain guide problem = solved.
Edit: Make sure to replace the chain tensioner regularly too (very easy job). That will prolong the life of the guide as a slack tensioner puts more strain on the guide.
Drop the oil pan once in a while and check for pieces. If you find any timing guide pieces, it is time for a replacement.
J Gripen curious... what's differant between the euro 540 timming guide vs american?
@@cruzinezy1968 I'd like to know this as well.
Should I also replace the guides too? As they are made of plastic. In general, plastic can get degrade over time especially with all the heat cycles.
These cars are positive camber on the front and negative on the rear from the factory... unless there is really excessive wear on the inside or outside tire treads on a a particular tire you might not necessarily be able to tell if there is a problem by looking.
One thing you didn't touch on and what stuck out to me in the video is that this car has a prestone can under the hood. That's an indicator to me of either a coolant leak or overheating problem or maybe both. These cars have a solid history of cooling system failures: cracks on hose connectors, expansion tank, radiator, bleed screws.... also thermostat failures are common and typically cause the car to run cold - poor heat in the winter might be a good sign. I run one of these in the desert and after about 6 months of daily driving (25-100 miles a day) coolant was down about a quart and this was enough to also cause malfunction of the climate control system due to air bubbles in the heater valve. I had an "untraceable" coolant leak for several months and I actually found that coolant was leaking from the center of the thermostat bleeder screw and it would only happen when the engine was hot and driven on the highway.
I've heard a lot about cracking valve covers on these but really, that's a simple repair. Mine hasn't cracked but I've had to change the gasket 2 times due to hardening which has lead to leaking on the rear side of the engine as well as into the spark plug tubes. There were 2 different specs of gasket for these so you need to make sure you bought one of the proper depth as well. Without a micrometer on hand they look identical - they are not.
I'm thinking of buying an E39 for my first car. I know basic mechanics with my dad and like to work on cars and bikes.
purolanpastori did u get one?
Did you get it I'm thinking about getting one in december
young playa I have one and I highly recommend it
young playa just educate yourself beforehand and check thoroughly before buying
@@damiensanchez8439 that's what I'm trying to do but it just looks like every e39 is a headache from what I'm hearing from these comments
Light control module, when it goes it'll make you crazy. Then there's the fun cooling system hoses under the intake, yes, under the intake. Still I love my E39's.
TommRamon hey can you give more details of problem lens light control module can have when they go out?
@@ald6268 One headlight will stay on even after you turn your headlights off, sometimes both. Console light stays on and gets very hot, headlights will blink at times . After you take the LCM out of the passenger side kickboard there's a tiny yellow light that comes on next to the odometer and shows that the milage has been tampered with, lots of fun things. Whats your symptoms ?
TommRamon I just wanted to know so when it happens lol
That Celica is gorgeous!
I got buddy from Romania and Ukraine they know these cars inside and out
What can you say about a 540i? Is the 4.4l V8 engine better (more reliable) than the straight 6?
I know my friend had one, he bought it with 300 000km, and drove (tortured) the thing for another 100 000km without anything breaking.
Lol this is the exact comment I was looking for. How did he find such a reliable used bmw 5 series?
I have a E39, 523i, 170 hp, year 1997, alusil motorblock. I live in Norway. I don't think nikasil- and alusil motorblocks have been sold in USA.
Have changed termostathouse/ termostat , visko. The motor right now, 330 000 km. Using " no" oil. Using "no" coolingwater.
I also drive a E34, 525i, year 1991, and E36, 316i, compact. On my cars l use a lot of FuidFilm. The best against rust.
In the sommer I drive a Newtonmeter- tuned two- stroke Trabant.
Where would u recommend to buy parts for this type of car ?
im 18 and buying a 535 v8 1998 this weekend. but i know it will be ALOT of stuff to do but im only buying it to learn anyway :D
How is this going lol
@@shitnutzx2 well i bought it and its going good:) learning alot.
another 4 more months later review? I'm looking into a 98 as well
@@jayserna1989 its still going good, going to replace some bushings, remove some rust and do a full service when i get my next pay check! going to sell soon tho because i want M5 :D
Oh i forgot you said in 2002 they changed the ignition coils to the E90 style ? How a car from 2002 will have the style coils from a 3 series the came out a few years later dont make any sense you mean the e90 has the 2002 e39 ignition coil style ?
Just to let you know bmw e39 is a very reliable car and please let me know what state you in i need to buy a few BROKEN e39 so i can resell them in my state with out doing anything if you see the 540i for 500 bucks i will buy them all for sure you guys are going to stay without 540i
Wait a minute you said to check the windows to make sure they all work on a bmw e39 ? LOL
Pls help I have 525o 2001 ....it's start and dies so I would like to know is it a ecu if it is how to diagnose it or reset it if possible
I got a xtra high miles 297k 530 I for $450... Previous owner took it to one of our local shops in Sonoma that's known for misdiagnosing vehicles told them it needed a head gasket after he overheated it and since it had high miles he went and bought a brand new car and after dealing with all the idiots on Craigslist told me if I wanted to pay for the registration fee it was mine .. so I called the tow truck had it brought up to my house because the battery was dead put water in it so I could find out if it had water in the oil or oil in the water it had neither and has been running perfect ever since almost a year now and about 10,000 miles and it runs and drives great
e39 is the most iconic body style imho
great vid very informative and like the straight talking,!!!
was looking at 245k m sport 530d in line 6 i assume..cheap but after watching this got me reservations..
just too much of a empty wallet misery if your not careful..
Eternal thanks
So what's the story on this 530i that needs an engine swap. Did it overheat? I see the catch can. Did you install that or do any work on this car previously?
Nathan, you vids are just great one by one, may I say that to run and keep e39 in a great condition is THE right Maintenance as BMW says, its all about the temperature and greasing-oil, if the coolant is in a great condition and changed on time as the oil then the car will be healthy for years to come, mine is such year '97
I agree. Advice is good for any car. If its low mileage, change the trans fluid every 30K or so. If its never been done and its old... don't change it. Otherwise, change brake fluid, coolant, power steering, clutch every 3 to 5 years. Change oil when dash indicator says to or if its totally black, thin, or has something else in it(like coolant - then check head gasket -probably overheating too if thats the case). Check trans oil and if its discolored, brown, milky(could be coolant leak into trans but does not apply to e39), or sparkly(trans is on its way out - fix it), or smells like burnt toast, change it(generally gold color on e39 but if its been changed with regular fluid might be red).
Change or blow out engine air filter. Over 100K check fuel pressure and change fuel filter. Over 100K check plugs and change if fouled.
I don't feel that older e39s are much different than other older cars. They have their own set of common failures and you should read up on like bimmerfest or wherever about these problems and keep an eye out for them.
I got the white residue everywhere early on when I overfilled the res before I figured out the level indicator. Shop tried to hit me up for a new cap (assuming failed pressure relief valve) - but its been fine since being filled properly.
My 2000 528i has intermittent front door lock issues. Changed battery. I can still use key to unlock but irritating. Both front doors, rears open every time. Sunroof tilt broken, clear coat peeling. Great to drive with 5 speed though
Gm5 module probably
Or rear trunk wire loom. Locking computer gets balled up when wires in the trunk loom are rubbing. Also check the wires in the driver door loom in the hinge area. You may need to cut the rubber jacket to inspect as some are glued on to the frame.
Drivers side front door lock gets worn. Needs lubrication. Had same problem with bad battery... low voltage. Car ran fine otherwise but started "forgetting" settings and not responding to remote... maybe bad battery or alternator/voltage regulator?
Rear tires on bmws are meant to have a slight negative camber
Noticed this on mine the other day when I had it up in the air thought my rear suspension was shot
Found a 2003 530i M Sport pkg, mint condition with only 53K miles. Dealer selling over $10K. Should I consider?
Rare to see one with mileage that low, but it's still overpriced.
@@wheatonna Thank you for your feedback. I ended up making an offer yesterday morning to find out it was sold the night before...
@@KelvinR79 If it sold fairly quick then the price was right. These are only going to go up in value and the lower miles cars will attract big money.
Rip-off
Thankyou Sir! I'm inspecting a e39 530i soon. And your tips help me know what I'm looking for on one of these. Cheers!
At least in Arizona and California for a decent one people are asking 2k-2.5k. Good condition I see them for 3-4k usually and for mint condition see them for about 5k and up. There one I found that has 103k miles all the packages(sport, tech, winter/summer, premium pkg) and lots of work done to it including the big one the coolant System. Guy says it only needs the sunroof retracked and new hood latch cable. He wants 6k for it. Good deal or nah?
A bit late but... not a good deal. Coolant system, at least to me, not a big deal. $150 in new parts and system is replaced. If you have to pay someone for labor that's a whole different ballgame.
If you could verify that it was not overheated I might buy it but not for $6k. A non-running vehicle is worth close to $0 I don't care what anyone says.
is the bmw 535i 245hp a good buy? Im used to mechanic on e39 in the past btw
What to expect when buying a used 5-series e39:
1)Oxidized paint on hood and trunk
2)Broken cup holders
3)Tears in the seats and door panels
4)Cloudy headlight lenses
5)At least one of the power window motors will not function
6)Problems with ABS
7)Problems with camshaft positioning sensor
8)Problems with oxygen sensors/catalytic converter
9)Digital display on stereo/dash will look like some kind of weird alien symbols
10)Factory CD changer stopped working/disc read error
11)Power sunroof will struggle to open and close automatically.
12)Dirty oil due to negligent previous owner
13)Sewing machine idle
14)Power steering problems
If you plan on buying one be sure to have an additional 5k on hand for immediate repairs. These cars can be a real headache.
Straightforward - Very Informative & Practical Review !! Thanks :)
I loved bmw's at one point. However, from my 83 528e, there are a lot of changes and modern technology that made these cars like a POC now. Thanks for this video. I am going to share with my friends and ppl of interest.
I've always wondered do these BMW's actually have a ton more problems than other cars, or it it just the fact that people actually care about and follow these cars and hence the gremlins get a lot more notoriety than the problems a corolla has for example?
It's the reputation caused by many things. BMW's break less often in my experience, when compared to let's say toyotas. BUT the rep is caused by:
1. If u take the car to a BMW licensed mechanic, the costs are nuts.
2. Some parts cost more, since they are of better quality than let's say Toyota parts
3. Due to the nature of BMWs, they aren't usually driven as nicely as your ordinary cars. Most used BMWs have been through owners that drive the car sideways, way too fast on bumpy roads, 200km/h on highways, and launch the car from any stoplights.
BMW's are an absolute joy to drive fast and aggressive, but that tends to break a car faster.
If you buy a BMW that has clearly been driven only by an older gentleman, and maintained religiously by him. It will last a lifetime if you also show it the same respect. I recommend checking dealers daily and waiting to snipe one of those cars.
The easiest signs of such a car are stock parts. No M-sport bumpers, or aftermarket exhausts. Stock wheels are also a really good sign that the owner was a man with class, buying a luxury car, not a drift wagon.
Yep the price for these are ceazy expensive
Here's better advice. Don't buy a neglected lemon. Buy only the best maintained, low mileage car you can find, and if it's 15-20 years old, expect to spend $1-2k per year on maintenance if you're not doing your own wrenching. If such a car costs say $5k and you drive and maintain it for 5 years, total cost will be $10-15k, or $2-3k per year. That works out to $250/mo on the high end. Show me a new car half as good (driving dynamics, comfort, looks, overall reliability) as the E39 for that monthly cost. Even show me a new car for $500/mo just as good - all modern ugly bulbous Chinesium plastic tofu turbo turds from any manufacturer. Install an AVIN head unit into the E39 and it will even be better than any modern car tech/infotainment wise. Same for goes for the E46 (but be prepared for the subframe issues if you drive it hard).
Still buying one😂 not a five star mec here but hey im swedish and if its not fixeble it aint broke🤪
My e39 530i 2001 is 300.000 km = 186411 miles. How many km/miles do other people have?
Nathan i think u should remake a catch can video for e39s fully detailed
HI, i know it's an old movie but maybe somebody can help me?. I recently bought BMW E39 540I - 12.1997 - sedan, automat. Fun car - not daily. Sport package. Pretty good shape for age, i want to keep the car as long as possible. JUST in case - i want to change whole suspension for a new one. To have new one. Period. I bought ALMOST everything. I'm looking for a shock absorbers and spring coils that not cost a fortune. This is not - and never will be - a race car. Previous owner changed 1 rear spring coil ( broke ) - from my perspective both should be swapped. Can somebody advice me what should i buy? I'm asking about specific models - when i type e39 540i sport suspension in a browser i receive answers with too many zeroes at the end ( like Bilstein kit for 2k ). To have peace of mind i want to swap ALL of them. I don't expect miracles, just want to buy correct parts in reasonable prices. So - anybody...?
If it help - VIN WBADE62050BW73354.
Thank You.
Im sorry but coolant is not a consumable..
Any videos on E39 wagon with a manual transmission? Bought one recently... 1999
is it bad if a e39 (540i) sits for about 15-17 under a enclosed canopy?
I got a 540i e39 2000. changed thermostat water pump bc coolant expansion tank hose blew and omw home car started overheating. New pump new hose and new thermostat trynna diagnose what else it could be if not bad sensor any help?
The fan not coming on
@@NathansBMWWorkshop my fan runs
I got a free 525i from my brother I just wanna know what I’m driving
Great informative video Nathan. Just can't beat an old Toyota Corolla, not that I've owned one but have worked on and been around plenty. BMWs do have a certain prestige to the owners. I've always based my vehicles on how easy the repairs will be when the warranty is out. 👍
what is the best engine variant for the e39?
Hello, did you have a E39 or E60 with manual transmission ? If yes, did you removed the clutch delay valve ?
Seat twist is a simple fix
Yeah, "really expensive" my ass.
So I have a question for you. I'm mechanically inclined and just bought an 03 530i. Spent 3k on it and expected to do work on it. Sure enough, on the way home the fuel pump failed, but then the dealership supposedly replaced that and the battery. It starts beautifully. Third day owning it the check engine light came on. Don't know what that's about, but if I made a huge mistake, I now have to live with it. It needs some brake work and suspension maintenance; which I expected. I'm doing research on all of these issues because I want to do as much as I can by myself. Any additional advice?
How did it go with your 530i?
@@kimkimpa5150 It's going ok. Most of the problems with my car are things like needing an o2 sensor. Nothing major. Probably replace the fuel filter soon.