Great job. Improvising to save mucho denero. I'm 67 retired auto diyer. I own a 2006 subie sti. My son has a 98 honda prelude base model. Eucalyptus green. Mostly stock has short ram intake aem with alpha works exhaust manifold. High flow cat with thermal research and development catback. 5 speed with 235,000 miles
Piri Hern thanks! Sti’s are great cars too! I have own two eucalyptus green base models and they are by far my favorite colors for the prelude! That’s a sweet setup he’s got! I’m sure it looks sweet! Definitely better than mine 😂
Piri Hern black paint works really well for that light haha. I deleted abs on this car...the system is quite simple parts wise. Chances are it’s either the module or one of the axle/hub sensors.
Thanks brother! A lot of elbow grease in this operation but it creates a good amount of air volume right behind this intake valves. Great for those high rpms and or forced induction.
Hoping to complete an F23 crank and rod/H23 block/ f20c ap1 piston combo one day as I have all the parts aside from forged rods. It’s the most budget friendly forced induction engine.
@thestateofreal2533 that's awesome. Mine has a long way to go but being as I have 2 usable blocks I'm probably doing one forged internal and the other might end up a g23. Trying to leave a option for boost later if funds will let me do it right and budget friendly. Will be posting the build when I'm done, from rat's nest to glory. The 91 cb7 se is a one year only thing so I'm really trying to do it right for the honda guys.
Yes I have an associates of science for machine tool and computer aided manufacturing. Worked in the field for 8 years with both manual and cnc. I was a master machinist before Uncle Sam called me to work full time instead of just as a reservist.
I have heard this theory but never seen it proven on the dyno. The idea seems right but the reason we do this is to combine it with other things like adding a bigger cam for instance which will need a more free flowing intake. In my instance I have both a larger cam profile from an F20B and forced induction - turbo charger - which makes incoming air more dense right at the back of the valves until they open. The more dense air volume that can fill the intake, the more we can cram into the combustion chamber.
great job dude. Which engine mounts you are running on your lude? I am almost done with my setup 500-550hp on my 98 prelude and looking for a good mounts for my setup.
Lord Chángo oh sorry I gotcha now. Nope I used loctite roof and flashing sealant. Worked out great! It was as dense and strong as 3M. I had to red loctite my motor mount bolts on because they kept rattling loose! ruclips.net/video/Hp7i7THoToo/видео.html
@@thestateofreal2533 any tips on removing the shaft from spacer? I removed the valves n trying to find stuff online on how to actually remove the shaft as it looks pressed in some how.
That is debatable by many. The Physics of a NA motor built is it always sucks in the same amount of air that the cam allows. Reducing the resistance of air flow allows for greater air density at a certain rpm. Greater air density demands more fuel to create more power. With stock cams and stock narrow band 02 sensor it should be able to read these minimal ratio changes and adjust. That being said, the gains you will see from this port are midrange / top end gains. You will loose low end gains with any max port as you loose low end air velocity which is the purpose of Honda having that IAB plate in the manifold. Max gains are seen on NA builds (aftermarket cam) or boosted builds which will require a tune and will take advantage of the increased air flow (decrease in air resistance)
GodzUnit01 yes and no. The biggest challenge with the angle grinder and using a cut off wheel (and I’ve seen plenty of horror picture) is it can grab and cut slices into the mating sealed surfaces. To me it’s not worth the risk of cutting yourself or the manifold where to don’t want to; and this is coming from someone who has ground welds with an angle grinder from high school tech onwards.
Dremel type tool with adjustable speed and the extension with a good dremel cutting wheel is a god send doing this gets in all the tight places and for smoothing as well you can pot polish both with Dremel and good bit of bits
Couldn’t tell you because iv never dyno’ed with a non ported setup. That being said, others have and they say you loose low end torque but gain in the top end. The “science” behind this relates to the higher air demands on the top end. The more air you can flow without resistance the easier it will be or an NA engine to suck it in. For a turbo setup you get the same thing…less resistance and the ability to flow more dense air immediately as the intake valves crack open. You gain more air volume just waiting there.
My Car DIY they are definitely out there and usually pretty cheap if your looking for USDM. People think they can handle a lot of boost stock but it’s a big misconception! They are good for NA setups also!
It all depends on what your goals are for the turbo setup. Power goal? Street or strip? Built or stock? If you want to compete at the drag strip with Honda’s most advanced I-vtec or are you looking to hit a street horsepower goal (max 400-450 and below).
I will tell you 400-450hp on a steer car is about the most trouble your gonna need to crush anything on the street that isn’t built and anymore hp and you have to run radials...really sticky wide soft expensive tires not meant for daily driving.
@@thestateofreal2533 Take example from F1 engines and MotoGP engines. They take examples from a water drop because 💧 will take the best shape for air flow, that's why CRX have better coef. of drag design than any other Honda including, Lamborghini's, Ferrari's, McLaren F1's and you name it. Because it looks like a tear drop with chopped off tail, and Prius has even lower coef. of drag because it has even less "knife edges". Big in the front and tapers down to in the back, but the front of any air cutting devider has to be the same size as the whole divider, it has to resemble a rain drop.
Did you do the upper half? That kind of work is awful i would just buy a K series intake and adapter plate or Skunk2 before I do this, i've done it and it sucks. And it makes ur car actually slower. Less velocity less low end power, less torque. Its for high end performance like high revving, and turbo. But yeah its easier to just buy a intake, you will break your mind and will doing this.
Came out great brother. Justin is an amazing person thru and thru.
The Dark Rican thanks brother! Totally is! I miss him. Hope to see you all soon.
Amazing work!! Made the job seem less daunting… i am still rocking your old AEM intake on my h22 Accord!! Great content brother!
Haha the first time I did this it was certainly daunting. After doing 3 or 4 now it’s just time that passes and your done! Thanks man for saying so!
well done. I'll be doing mine with a die grinder, but this is a great guide for it.
When I did this some years ago it stopped by car from idle Wierd. Maybe it’s was the butterfly. Good work
Master craftsman you are. Excellent
very nice! will it cause an otheriwise stock motor/ecu to throw a CEL?
Nope as there are no electronics associated with it.
Great job. Improvising to save mucho denero. I'm 67 retired auto diyer. I own a 2006 subie sti. My son has a 98 honda prelude base model. Eucalyptus green. Mostly stock has short ram intake aem with alpha works exhaust manifold. High flow cat with thermal research and development catback. 5 speed with 235,000 miles
Piri Hern thanks! Sti’s are great cars too! I have own two eucalyptus green base models and they are by far my favorite colors for the prelude! That’s a sweet setup he’s got! I’m sure it looks sweet! Definitely better than mine 😂
Thanks for the quick reply. At present trying to clear abs lite that comes on intermittently. Unable to scan for codes with my autel scan tool.
Piri Hern black paint works really well for that light haha. I deleted abs on this car...the system is quite simple parts wise. Chances are it’s either the module or one of the axle/hub sensors.
Question is this a replacement one or the stock one. Only asking cause I'm nervous about doing it to my stock one 😅
Great job doing the same thing and really like how you bolted the spacer for port matching. 91 cb7 se
Thanks brother! A lot of elbow grease in this operation but it creates a good amount of air volume right behind this intake valves. Great for those high rpms and or forced induction.
Hoping to complete an F23 crank and rod/H23 block/ f20c ap1 piston combo one day as I have all the parts aside from forged rods. It’s the most budget friendly forced induction engine.
@thestateofreal2533 that's awesome. Mine has a long way to go but being as I have 2 usable blocks I'm probably doing one forged internal and the other might end up a g23. Trying to leave a option for boost later if funds will let me do it right and budget friendly. Will be posting the build when I'm done, from rat's nest to glory. The 91 cb7 se is a one year only thing so I'm really trying to do it right for the honda guys.
So you loose the long runner for volume or is it now always short runner but more volume? You add more volume with a second plate to maximize power
What did you mean when you said you no longer have access to the same tools. Did you work in a garage or machine shop previously?
Yes I have an associates of science for machine tool and computer aided manufacturing. Worked in the field for 8 years with both manual and cnc. I was a master machinist before Uncle Sam called me to work full time instead of just as a reservist.
Awesome video
Awesome bro! Thank you!
01Lude no problem man! A lot of love put into this for you! 🤟🏻
Did you have to plug the IACV hole in the upper part of the intake along with the other hole beside it after doing this?
Do you need a tune after this??
I heard doing this sacrifices low end torque for high end power, any thoughts on that?
I have heard this theory but never seen it proven on the dyno. The idea seems right but the reason we do this is to combine it with other things like adding a bigger cam for instance which will need a more free flowing intake. In my instance I have both a larger cam profile from an F20B and forced induction - turbo charger - which makes incoming air more dense right at the back of the valves until they open. The more dense air volume that can fill the intake, the more we can cram into the combustion chamber.
How much do you charge do this?
You still porting them? Looking to get mine done. Let me know. Thanks
great job dude. Which engine mounts you are running on your lude? I am almost done with my setup 500-550hp on my 98 prelude and looking for a good mounts for my setup.
Aloio h22 the mounts I made in one of my videos haha. This is no show car so I filled the mounts with polyurethane caulk! They are great!
THE STATE OF REAL Currently working on this myself! 3M?
Lord Chángo that’s awesome! 3M what?
THE STATE OF REAL Did you use 3M 08609 or what product did you go with for the polyurethane caulk?
Lord Chángo oh sorry I gotcha now. Nope I used loctite roof and flashing sealant. Worked out great! It was as dense and strong as 3M. I had to red loctite my motor mount bolts on because they kept rattling loose!
ruclips.net/video/Hp7i7THoToo/видео.html
Great jod I use a grinder the bendit and then polish it
dude I need to know where you got that intake spacer. looks great!
Zachery Mitchell it’s the oem one milled out
THE STATE OF REAL wow that looks like a custom aftermarket piece! Well done!
@@thestateofreal2533 any tips on removing the shaft from spacer? I removed the valves n trying to find stuff online on how to actually remove the shaft as it looks pressed in some how.
Awesome
Nice bro
Just subbed! We have q honda channel too with 2 h22 cars on it!
How much would you charge to do mine for me? Im in Connecticut but ill pay all shipping. You did a awsome job man
Honestly I made this video to get way from doing it haha. I usually charge $350 to do this for all the labor and consumables.
Im gonna find a spare and give it a shot. Its not gonna be as nice as that lol
@@jamesnewton8164 honestly my first one wasn’t the best either but we learn!
Does the spacer have holes on it for the butterfly
Yes it does. Plug them up with jb weld two part epoxy.
do you need a tune after you port the intake manifold?
That is debatable by many. The Physics of a NA motor built is it always sucks in the same amount of air that the cam allows. Reducing the resistance of air flow allows for greater air density at a certain rpm. Greater air density demands more fuel to create more power. With stock cams and stock narrow band 02 sensor it should be able to read these minimal ratio changes and adjust.
That being said, the gains you will see from this port are midrange / top end gains. You will loose low end gains with any max port as you loose low end air velocity which is the purpose of Honda having that IAB plate in the manifold.
Max gains are seen on NA builds (aftermarket cam) or boosted builds which will require a tune and will take advantage of the increased air flow (decrease in air resistance)
Would an angle grinder have been faster?
GodzUnit01 yes and no. The biggest challenge with the angle grinder and using a cut off wheel (and I’ve seen plenty of horror picture) is it can grab and cut slices into the mating sealed surfaces. To me it’s not worth the risk of cutting yourself or the manifold where to don’t want to; and this is coming from someone who has ground welds with an angle grinder from high school tech onwards.
THE STATE OF REAL good point about angle grinders grabbing.
Dremel type tool with adjustable speed and the extension with a good dremel cutting wheel is a god send doing this gets in all the tight places and for smoothing as well you can pot polish both with Dremel and good bit of bits
Tbh, I burnt up my dremel using it on here. Thank goodness it was still under warranty!
Sheeesh!
How much hp do u get with ported manifold
Couldn’t tell you because iv never dyno’ed with a non ported setup. That being said, others have and they say you loose low end torque but gain in the top end. The “science” behind this relates to the higher air demands on the top end. The more air you can flow without resistance the easier it will be or an NA engine to suck it in. For a turbo setup you get the same thing…less resistance and the ability to flow more dense air immediately as the intake valves crack open. You gain more air volume just waiting there.
All depends. Anywhere from 10-35 whp
Love the videos man! I'm hoping to find a good deal on an old H22 that I can do a nice quality build until my H22 dies. :D
My Car DIY they are definitely out there and usually pretty cheap if your looking for USDM. People think they can handle a lot of boost stock but it’s a big misconception! They are good for NA setups also!
@@thestateofreal2533 would you recommend a K swap for a turbo build?
It all depends on what your goals are for the turbo setup. Power goal? Street or strip? Built or stock? If you want to compete at the drag strip with Honda’s most advanced I-vtec or are you looking to hit a street horsepower goal (max 400-450 and below).
I will tell you 400-450hp on a steer car is about the most trouble your gonna need to crush anything on the street that isn’t built and anymore hp and you have to run radials...really sticky wide soft expensive tires not meant for daily driving.
@@thestateofreal2533 I'm definitely not looking for drag strip or racing power, just low to medium boost so when i hit the gas I feel that extra pull
Say no to knife edges when porting
Why do you say that?
@@thestateofreal2533 No air flow in the entire history of the world ever liked any sharp edges
@@thestateofreal2533 Take example from F1 engines and MotoGP engines. They take examples from a water drop because 💧 will take the best shape for air flow, that's why CRX have better coef. of drag design than any other Honda including, Lamborghini's, Ferrari's, McLaren F1's and you name it. Because it looks like a tear drop with chopped off tail, and Prius has even lower coef. of drag because it has even less "knife edges". Big in the front and tapers down to in the back, but the front of any air cutting devider has to be the same size as the whole divider, it has to resemble a rain drop.
Can inhave you make me one? I had a buddybof mine make one and he just made all kind of air leaks
Awesome job, well done. I'm trying to increase my low end torque on a stock NA H22. Any ideas? Thanks
Did you do the upper half? That kind of work is awful i would just buy a K series intake and adapter plate or Skunk2 before I do this, i've done it and it sucks. And it makes ur car actually slower. Less velocity less low end power, less torque. Its for high end performance like high revving, and turbo. But yeah its easier to just buy a intake, you will break your mind and will doing this.
You shouldn’t have made the plenum so big and the runners so short.
Why?
This is not the way
Was up bro you think I can send you mines so you can do the same
Lowell mass
Do you have a contact e-mail or number. Would like to get that work done to my h22 manifold.