How to create an open concept room with a flush beam

[@kevinzep01]

Thanks for the video. I liked that you explained the need for engineering the beam to carry the proper loads. Typically on a rafter roof there will be kickers down to the bearing wall or beam so roof load often comes into playas well as snow loads. I liked how you described the need to check the foundation work when enlarging the opening... Very nicely done!

[@uptokode]

Thank you! There a lot to it so it’s best to be thorough

[@dalexeev]

It is a pleasure to see a job done properly. Great job.

[@ellearvizu295]

Best example and explanation ive seen to help raise a beam!!

[@uptokode]

Thanks!

[@glennstanley2892]

If the wall is under a cut and stack roof there still may be some roof bearing. Check for rafter purlins that kick or post down to that wall. They need to be considered. Also, I would strap the cut ceiling joists across the new beam at every, or every other, joist just in case there is any small amount of future horizontal force in the joists during a snow event (in snow country). Sometimes a cut and stack roof can have areas that are inadvertently using the ceiling system in a way similar to the bottom chord of a truss.

[@fusiongurudotcom8195]

Flush mount beam is the right way to do it. A drop beam is a cheap lazy way to do it. Thanks for the video !

[@uptokode]

Agreed! Thanks for commenting

[@notta3d]

Good video. I had one put in 2 years ago and while I love the look of the beam being gone it does limit your options on how you run pipes and electrical. I eventually had to have 2 - 1/2" holes drilled through the beam for hot and cold water pipes that I could not route any other way.

[@errolgonsalves3778]

notta3d I had one done and my contractor used a top plate. That allowed for channels for plumbing and electrical.

[@uptokode]

For a ceiling area like this a flush beam is no worries. For basements and load bearing interior walls you’re absolutely right about the need to run electrical and plumbing. I now install for all my new builds a 20” tall open web joist with 9 1/2” beams flush to the bottom. This allows room to run mechanical over top but entirely eliminates bulkheads. Now I can get away with a full 8’ Basement height and no drop downs.

[@jonathankerner2094]

Excellent video. I will be doing this where I am removing a portion of a wall in my home. Great job, thank you!

[@uptokode]

You bet! Thank you.

[@p.jgarseas1384]

Kudos on information on regard to types of roofs an design where you can modify

[@akeofalltrades]

Very nice video and explanation! It looks like you sistered the joists before hangin them to the beam. How did you do that without opening up the entire ceiling?

[@uptokode]

I only sistered them back maybe 16 or 20 inches. Not far. Just enough to get the ceiling joists tight to the beam.

[@VP411Designs]

Awesome video, thank you. For homes that require multiple lvl beams that cross each other, what is best way to make sure its connected using joist hangers using nails? Or is there another method to keep load balanced meeting city code requirements for future safety? Essentially how is two lvl beams that cross each other held up joined connected to each other?

[@aaronbaker9897]

Nice💪🏾👍🏿

[@uptokode]

Thanks

[@toronto690]

I always enjoy your videos.
Can this be done to a main floor ceiling on a 2 storey house?(bedrooms and bathroom above). What is the maximum length span that can be supported this way? Wish I could show you photos of the area

[@uptokode]

Thanks! For a 2 storey it might get tricky…not for structural requirements but mostly because there’s a very good chance you will need plumbing, electrical and/or hvac to pass overtop of the beam. If you install a flush beam, it will block all these mechanical items.
As for the size of the beam you need to know the area of the floors, stair locations and post locations.

[@angeloiezzi7054]

So I felt like this was a video on promoting THE PRIME tools. It would of been more helpful to know why you doubled up in ceiling joists (answered in. Innents already) and did you double up the whole length on ceiling joists or just a few feet?to be clear any video you learn from is a good video. I learned from this video

[@bigairbryan8895]

great job

[@pw5391]

is a 16-foot beam the longest it can go? what happens if the wall is like 20-25 feet wide?

[@leebannister3759]

Great video, I am going to follow your ikea kitchen 5-part series. Do you have one of you actually showing the entire process? actually installing a LVL?

[@uptokode]

No unfortunately I do not.

[@ericlysiak1840]

Kody, Thanks for sharing, however, can you provide more detail regarding the ceiling joists that were doubled up on? how were they connected on the other end, did they span the whole ceiling distance?

[@undonesofficial]

Good video, as a fellow contractor, nicely done, everything looked aligned and in place. The only thing I noticed was that you put a joist hanger nail into the ceiling joist itself; shouldn't you use at least a 3" framing nail or screw? At least that's what I was taught. I could see in a limited space, sometimes you have to do the best you can do!

[@davidhsieh2761]

Im pretty sure hanger nails are just for the flange, if the hanger is designed for toe nailing, those needs to be 10d/16d nails to penetrate to beam in order for the hanger to function at their rated strength.

[@enkrypt3d]

Screws don't have the same sheer strength as nails do.

[@jeffreylonigro1382]

Why did you sister in an extra joist making them doubles? Do the doubles extend to the exterior walls?

[@uptokode]

If I remember correctly, we had to cut the original ceiling joists a bit wider to accept the beam. Since there was a slight gap between the joist and the beam we decided to sister them to get a nice tight connection to the beam. They weren’t really necessary

[@Kanesgarage]

Why not screws in the hangers instead of nails?

[@imausto]

With this being a rafter style house and the load of the wall essentially supporting the ceiling joists and not roof load, how critical is it that the load is transferred into the basement foundation directly? I have offsets between my upstairs wall and my basement wall of about 1 foot.

[@mickeybowmeister1944]

Great video, I'm always curious if taking out load bearing walls that lateral bracing is taken into consideration. i.e. allot of LBW also provide wind and earthquake support by either plaster board, ply or diagonal metal strap etc.

[@uptokode]

Very good thinking behind that. Definitely worth considering when doing something like this. That’s where a structural engineer would need to be hired.
For this house it’s a simple bungalow with 8’ walls so it won’t really affect the structure as the roof and exterior walls are doing all the work.
I do really like your thinking !!

[@mickeybowmeister1944]

@@uptokode thanks Kody, I also like your work. Lived for a time in BC but do building design in New Zealand, we use pretty much the same systems here, am also conscious of the Earthquake forces.

[@draf8517]

if i did this without a permit would they ever find out when i sell in 30 years?

[@uptokode]

Very unlikely. Make sure you do your homework so the beam is the correct size. And make sure you have proper loading to the foundation.

[@LubaLuba1]

So why did you doubled up on ceiling wooden beam for the drywall?

[@uptokode]

The ceiling joists you mean? We doubled those up just because the ends of the original ones were a bit damaged and we wanted good bearing into the hangers.

[@ClayAutery]

@@uptokode How far back did you double up those ceiling joists? What was the nailing schedule?

[@clauniejoseph1553]

Hi Kody, Excellent concept. I have a load bearing concrete wall with concrete beams. I would like to break the whole wall to open the space and was wondering if it is possible to take a concrete beam and flush it into the attic? Thanks.

[@mikeflores996]

Not sure if I'm understanding right, is the beam sitting on top of the top plate 3" in, on both sides and toe nailed to the plate and can I use two 2x12 sistered together for a 12' opening? Thanks for your help!

[@user-vz8pb2fk5d]

Why is the support beam painted yellow ? Is it treated with some chemical to prevent rot? Is it code?

[@uptokode]

I’m not totally sure. It does have a bit of a wax coating.

[@lucasled5049]

color coding, load classification, spam, application? I've seen them orange, natural and the waxing is for treatment against rod and insects.

[@wheres_bears1378]

could you put that bean in there flush if the wall was bearing the roof and not the ceiling ?

[@grahamlocklin]

I noticed the joists were doubled up in the after with the engineered beam. Was this for structure?

[@uptokode]

The old ceiling joists were toe nailed into the old dropped beam. Upon demolition some wood was chipped off the edges of the joists so we spliced them back for guaranteed support. The 2nd reason was we cut back the joists a little extra to make room for the beam. The extra layer on the joists allowed us to butt them tight to the beam after it was in place.

[@joshbradybaugh6198]

Kody Horvey how far back to the exterior wall did you scissor all the ceiling joists back to the exterior wall on each side of the engineered beam?

[@nicoguar1]

How long was the beam ?
And can I do something like that with a 22 F beam the roof is rafters roof

[@uptokode]

I don’t recall the length. I’m thinking 12-14’. You can do a 22’ beam, just need someone qualified to spec it so it’s proper size. I did a lean-to a few years ago with 23’ span and a 3 ply - 14” LVL. Or maybe it was 16”. Either way it’s possible

[@nicoguar1]

Kody Horvey thanks!!! Good bless you !!

[@skylitknight5775]

Hi there, great video. I've encountered roughly 7inch floor joists. Do you recommend attempting flush ceiling? Or one with a drop?

[@Tmztohytaa]

What did u faster the 3 plys together with

[@Legacy3Enterprise]

How many people did it take to do this job and what would the cost for a job this size be? I'd like to open my living/dining room like this?

[@uptokode]

2 people can do a job like this. Price is hard to say but if you paid someone to do everything from demo, beam install, drywall, mud and tape and painting I would say around 7,000 - 10,000. Could do for less if you know handy people.

[@1960jogo]

It does nail all sizes of nail that hanger nails?

[@SnakeHandler-g7u]

Why did you have to pad out all the single ceiling joists to doubles?

[@arnaldorivera7031]

Buy a palm nailer instead. It’s smaller and in IMO better for hanger nails.

[@jaandel1]

Great video thanks for sharing but I be been always concern about how do you determine the width and how many lvl to built a bearing wall.. by the way how do you deal with lower stories are structural sound?

[@uptokode]

There’s a lot of factors involved with determining the beam size. I like to go to a truss plant and have them run all the dimensions of the structure to determine the beam size. If they won’t do it then you have to go see a structural engineer.
As for proper structural loading that takes some serious investigation and careful measuring to make sure there’s columns or posts that can transfer the load to a pile or footing.

[@richardbedard1245]

To get the ceiling joists flush with beam the joist hangers would cause a bulge?

[@10lhskater]

Could I go to lowes and give them my dimensions or should I go to actual lumber yard and talk to them?

[@borys444]

U need to go to an actual truss manufacture.

[@10lhskater]

@@borys444 thank you! But already got her done. Had a buddies friend do it for me he got two 20 foot lvl beams from a lumber yard.

[@borys444]

Luke Holley sweet deal, did u end up getting a permit for the install?

[@10lhskater]

@@borys444 nope!

[@Ray-wr2wr]

hello
I have 20 ft span( 1st floor open floor concept) keep in mind I have 2 floor !would 2x10x20 2pices LVL be enough?
thank you!

[@rubenllamas5644]

Hey Ramon I just did a 24ft span open concept in Costa Mesa.
You need to make sure that where your post are going to sit that there is a pad for both post that will be supporting the beam. The pad you will create needs to be 18 inches deep
And you need 15 inches ⬆️⬇️⬅️➡️ follow those arrows at the bottom of 18 inches. You will dig 15 inches left right front and back creating a total of 30 inch span underneath the 18 inches you dug. You need #4 rebar a total of 8 pieces and cut those 26 1/2 inches long
You will cross the rebar like a Tik tak toe table and starp them with wire. Make sure when you put the rebar inside the pad don’t let any dirt touch the Rebar so you can put some things that are called dobbies just to elevate the rebars of the ground inside the pad you created. You will pour concrete in the pad and you can also insert and anchor to be able to place a HDU2 bracket that is a special hold down that is needed for earthquake protection. Also depending on where you Live and of course if it’s a slab foundation or a raised foundation I mean it’s kind of hard to say what you need to do without actually being there.

[@EduardoFH]

Do trusses need interior bearing walls

[@uptokode]

No they do not.

[@LubaLuba1]

Few questions why you have double ceiling joists and did you ever install header inside the attic to support ceiling joists

[@uptokode]

That exactly what we did. We installed the beam inside the attic and hung the ceiling joists off the new beam.
The only reason we doubled up the joist ends was because some were split and damaged so we wanted extra support where it sits in the hangers

[@LubaLuba1]

oh see how long of a span can I go with a LBL beam?

[@briangoodale7167]

How did you finish the vertical cut of each joist? You show the cut with a skil saw but that wouldn't cut all the way to the top because of the guard. Is there a tool for this or did you have to finish by hand or maybe a Fine reciprocating saw would work?

[@uptokode]

A reciprocating saw works the best!

[@nebraskaninkansas347]

Great video, thinking of doing that to open up my kitchen. Just curious if you are able to say how long it took for the architect to draw up the plans.

[@uptokode]

I didn’t have an architect for this job. On simple projects I do my own. Hand drawn with a scaled ruler. Like I said, simple and small jobs.
As for time, it all depends on your architect and their schedule.
I did go to the truss plant with all my dimensions and have them run the numbers so the beam was sufficient. This took an hour.

[@daidegoat]

Is it possible to remove a load bearing wall from the first floor of a two story house and replace it with a flush beam?

[@nelson6918np14]

Yes

[@jasondominguez3913]

can you use 2x 10 or 2x 12 in place of lvl

[@uptokode]

Depends on spans and load but yes you can. It’s still code compliant, you just need to verify everything. LVL just allows longer spans and less posts.

[@jaro2450m]

Structural engineer planning documentation signed in Inspectional Services Department

[@gslaugs]

Love the videos Kody. Are you all OJT or did you do some kind of school?

[@uptokode]

Thank you! I’m a journeyman carpenter.

[@uptokode]

But let’s put it this way. The apprenticeship was very very worth the time but one must never stop learning. On the job training is obviously the best way to learn and I’m finding out that you will never have it totally figured out. Just keep your mind open and always learn.

[@marcodeluca4068]

Was there a second floor or was that jus attic

[@uptokode]

Just attic

[@anthonycooper5149]

Tico nailer. Tico gun!

[@davidhuynh2202]

Where can I buy the beams

[@mtaylor711]

Would this work if the beam was holding up the 2nd floor instead of roof?

[@uptokode]

Yes you can make a flush beam to hold a 2nd floor instead of a dropped beam. Flush beams are tricky in those situations because of duct work and electrical that need to cross that beam location.
And finally make sure somebody runs the math and makes sure the beam is sufficient with proper point loads down to the foundation.
Does that help you?

[@mtaylor711]

@@uptokode Thanks so much it helps alot

[@georgelowellohhdgg63nnd96]

How do you know he details of nailing the engineered boards together?

[@georgelowellohhdgg63nnd96]

@JimoTex22 PTSD thanks

[@vicsilva3492]

Where can you get that exact type of hangers?

[@uptokode]

These can be found at almost any hardware store. Just standard Simpson joist hangers

[@fredricksonted3920]

which face mount joist hanger did you use?

[@uptokode]

Simpson.

[@nealdutta4069]

OHHHHH! So this already was an open concept room. You just wanted to replace the load baring beam with a flush beam attached with hangers.....right?

[@uptokode]

Yes more or less but the concept is the exact same if you are removing a wall.

[@monsterp.g.1741]

Lets just remove this wall and that wall it looks better and is all open now beautiful. What some people dont realize is that once you remove walls or a wall now your ac is going to work extra hard to cool or heat that big open space.theres a video about that in youtube somewhere.

[@RBBBBBBBBB533]

It would have looked better if you had removed the other wall too and just extended the length of the beam. I assume this is the living / dining / kitchen area.

[@uptokode]

I agree but this floor plan wouldn’t allow for it. We would have lost a lot of kitchen space.

[@IngenuityCanvas]

Can you do a flush beam on a slopped ceiling?

[@ClayAutery]

The math gets a lot more complicated...

[@lucasled5049]

Yes you can.

[@royafa1839]

How much for 16 feet long wall to install flush beam estimate please

[@rafirk7968]

Did you ever find out? I have the same project coming up

[@sophialow340]

My husband uses these plans from Stodoys and is very happy with them. However. I love yours!

[@dennisharold5030]

Woodglut is full of amazing tips. It helped me a lot.

[@antonshkabara3090]

Woodglut is nice for that.

[@victorvek5227]

That’s a huge wall left beside it to claim “open concept”

[@uptokode]

I still needed some walls in the kitchen for a fridge and counters. Can’t be totally wide open

[@lucasled5049]

@@uptokode you are absolutely right. It's an open concept, but you still need some wall space not just for the fridge and such, but to mount the new LVLs.
I own a house in Maryland built in the early sixties and i have a single wall separating my living room and Kitchen. I will be taking care of this job very soon.
I am a licensed contractor and I always consult with other experts to have the right info and then apply for permits.

[@baldguyrules5149]

Went from showing the beam to advertising a tool...lol...thumbs down on this video

[@uptokode]

Can’t win them all

[@Tmztohytaa]

Exactly. Weak video. Shows nothing. The hardest part is cutting back the ceiling joists in preparation for the beam. Also doesnt speak on how he nailed or secured the lvl plys.

[@JRCoronado24]

Im not buying the nail gun dude

[@brucemacneil]

Step 1 - Engage an architect and an engineer
Step 2 - Apply for a building permit
Step 3 - Hire a trustworthy contractor after checking references.
These videos are a bit dangerous in that they embolden overly confident or naive DIY folk to vandalize their house.

[@uptokode]

I agree with you 100%. The video is to show people what is possible and that it’s not difficult so don’t let contractors make a big deal about it. Of course proper loading and engineering is required but for a professional that’s a common occurrence

[@jaandel1]

@@uptokode great response its unbelievable how upset can be those GC when people share knowledge.. it's up to the person if he is willing to diy or hire somebody else...
Thanks guy like you, many homeowner will avoid be RIP off for Gc whom perform poor work.

[@shawnforbes6495]

there always one that has to state the obvious, besides the fact I live in a 1950 home with full concent why would I go to council and apply for a permit for a simple DIY job with the right material and information. thankyou this video is perfect to confirm what I was thinking, we are also expanding the wall so a friend is running a report for the structure rating for us.

[@johnb9394]

I love going back and fixing homeowner work after they consulted the experts in Home Depot....NOT. You pay money to a GC for his experience hopefully so check references! It can save you frustration from having to pay to get it done twice. For those of you that ALWAYs pick the lowest bidder... you get what you deserve.

[@joeny1980]

@@uptokode your response is spot on with what I got from this video. I'm planning a (hired) renovation and to save costs I considered not doing flush beams but you've convinced me it's really not a big deal and not worth trading down.