Opening up the Living Room Wall
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- Опубликовано: 29 мар 2019
- One of the first projects I working on at my house was to open up the living room wall. The room was too closed off. In this video I'll show you how I removed and refinished a large section of wall to make the room more open and create more flow through the house.
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That clamp to hold the drywall is simply genius. You did a great job on this project!
This is a valuable addition to my woodwork collection ruclips.net/user/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO I still will rate this woodwork plan as the best in my reference library. It always seem to stand out from the rest whenever you go through the library. This is a masterpiece.
Wow i cannot believe what i just saw....glad your ok and the video came out....Ladies and Gentlemen watch this video closely and understand how not to remove a wall. Al ways go into the roof, locate the load bearing studs and secure heavy props underneath in the living room, as those load bearing studs are supporting the weight of the roof of the house.
Agree, always support from below. He was depending on the shear strength of screw to hod the joists in place. No where near as
"massively engineered" as claimed. Screws a notoriously weak in shear. He also removed a 2x10 or 2x12 header about 4' long over the door and replaced it with a 4x4 more than 3 times as long. Structurally the 4x4 has less than 25% of the strength of the original foo header.
Interesting to watch how you did the job while I was taking a break doing a similar job. I was most happy with the last part, real time, and the recognizable communication with your partner LOL!! Back to work now, with new inspiration. Thanks for posting!
I would have definitely devised a way to support that header with a trimmer on both sides. A span of that size with only a 4x4 isn’t enough. Code says any opening over 5 feet needs 2 trimmers on each side. If an inspector saw that, they would not be happy at all. Props to doing it.
Consult with a pro.
Both ends of a header should sit on top of a vertical support. If you don't have a vertical support under the horizontal, then you are relying on the fastener to keep everything in place, which should not be done.
Litterally all he had to do was cut 3.5 inches off the 2x4 and his header would have sat ontop.
Thank you for the fast forward but clear audit. I have no patience. Great job
This WAS a load-bearing wall. You can tell by the direction of the ceiling joists, (where you improperly installed a "support beam" in the attic). The load needs to be supported at the opening (underneath) with a temporary wall. Then double jack studs on each side of the opening to support a double 2"x10" header (with 1/2" plywood sandwiched between them). Literally, 2 hours on the internet researching would've steered you in the correct direction. Hope it holds and your mud doesn't crack later.
You can absolutely support ceiling joist like he had shown however what he installed I would not call excessively over engineered. With the naked eye it appears a couple hem fir 2x8's with (2) H2.5A's each side. Those clips will probably be okay however the beam is most likely lacking in strength.
He should have paid the couple hundred dollars or so for a structural engineer to look at is.
Can I ask, what's the 1/2inch plywood used for please? Many thanks
@@GMLondonlook up “door headers” and you can learn more- but the 1/2inch softer wood used between studs in common framing. there are a few reasons, which make it a standard practice in constructing the proper support inside the wall frame.
I give you a lot of credit dude. I’m doing some renovations for the first time and I’m nervous as hell
Awesome project, and we'll edited with good explanation of each step. Wife was right, crown moulding is worth protecting, beautiful.
This was so satisfying to watch in fast motion! Great job!
this helps a lot for me because i'm renovating my room . my walk in closet is the same width of the closet but i would have to cut one piece of the wall for the length of the bed. i had just finished taking off the drywall and nails, i just didn't know what else or what to do next. thank you so much for the tips!
This video could cost someone a lot, including their life. Always have a wall evaluated by an engineer to make sure it's not load bearing. If it is load bearing I'd recommend hiring someone qualified to do the renovation work. Always be cautious in remodeling work. Stay safe.
The size of the lintel over the original doorway is a dead giveaway the wall is load bearing.
That’s why he installed a large support beam in the ceiling prior to commencing. It’s not a double story house, but the beam installed is way over specked which is a good thing. Nothing Dangerous here
@@swaziaudoesn’t matter how “specked” it is. It is ON TOP of the opening, thus increasing the load 😂😂
you're a stuntman? well that explains EVERYTHING!!!
I loooooooove that you tidy up as you go along👏👏👍💯
This was very awesome to watch. GOOD JOB 👍🏽
that was a load bearing wall... your 4x4 header shouldve been two 2x8s with 1/2 ply between, supported on either end, and more support in your crawl space or basement. i bet you will have drywall cracking in a few months.
It's crazy of how messy it gets but it makes you feel proud of such a different you make in your own home....nice work btw....
Awesome house... hope you post pictures of it completed. Thanks for sharing
I’ve watched this 2 times because I really am impressed .... good job !
impressive amount of willful neglect?
Lmao.....love the bloopers at the end of the video.
I couldn't do this if my life depended on it. Nice job.
Oh my God nice job your house is your record now I wonder what is before
excellent video Ben...love the time lapse
What an amazing job. Excellent.
I really like that you sped up the show yet gave enough details as to what you had to do. Very cool. Had to subscribe to see what else you did. I need a shed for so many tools and be able to re-do my Garage for room extension and my "other" wants a Hobby shop. One shed should do. Thank you !!! 10/11/2019
Did you end up redoing your garage for more room space? If so, how’d you do it!
You remind me alot of myself tackling home projects. Electrical ,sheetrock, woodwork.Bring it on.
How did you learn?
@@SimplicityBeatz RUclips videos, google, and just trying it.
Sheet rocks one thing, call a licensed electrician .
Good job! Looks much better and open/updated. A Goodlife hack would be to just leave the right side. Take a few studs out of the other side to even it up, and make less work and time not dealing with that electrical. Nice drywall skills too, I'm learning as well but looks like you we ham on it :)
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 very nice and professional job in every single way. 👍🏻
Good job except if that was a load bearing wall the support has to come from underneath not over.
This is such a dangerous video. The span here is so small that there likely won't be a failure, but you extrapolate this over a bigger span and someone heeds this guide, big trouble...
Ok I’m no expert and haven’t done any of this DIY stuff before but I’m glad you said that cuz even I was thinking wouldn’t make sense for it to be underneath.
Yeah. From the support beam in the attic not actually doing anything and the header being undersized and the jack posts not being built correctly. You are very lucky that was was not load bearing.
@@cna5018 It is definitely a load bearing wall. You can see that it is at 3:53 because each ceiling joists consist of two pieces of construction lumber joined at the point where he has installed his 'header beam'. In other words, the ceiling joists that run perpendicular to the 'header' he installed are supported on the wall he is removing. You can also see a vertical beam coming down from the roof at 3:51 transferring the weight of his roof to the load bearing wall he is removing. He has even tied the 'header' to this vertical support! On the left side of the opening he does install what could be construed as a jack stud before attaching a beam across the opening. However, he seems to be more concerned with installing this as a cosmetic header than as a structural piece because he thinks his header in the roof is going to work. Subsequently, at the other end of this 'accidental' structural piece he ties it in to a stud in the perpendicular wall with some lagging screws. If he had used a couple of 2x4s there instead he might have saved himself, but nope, this is a disaster waiting to happen.
You couldn't tell if it was a load bearing wall from being in the attic?
I'm shocked to see only a few number of comments pointing out that this renovation isn't up to code while the rest of them think this is the right way to tear down any wall.
Parabéns pelo seu trabalho! 👏👏👏
Wow. This just proved everyone with okay camera skills can be a DIY RUclipsr. You got my view and a comment but I won't be back.
My only suggestion are that even if it doesn't appear to be load bearing, it's better to rebuild it as such just in case and that you can lay down cheap plastic or canvas sheeting over your protective layer so that you can just pick it up and haul the fallen drywall away. My mom does this because she hates working in messy spaces.
great work man. I thought of removing a bedroom wall and turn it into a living room, but after seeing so much work involved, maybe later.
The video is great, thanks for sharing, love the end, yes we all have those moments most dont share them !
Already voiced in comments below but if anyone is watching this is a great video on how NOT to replace a load bearing wall. Building a 'overengineered' header in the ceiling does nothing for transferring load to the basement. The new beam is not in any way properly supported and should have been steel (to keep it small) or stacked LVL lumber (Laminated Veneer structural lumber). Most importantly - should be sitting on jacks/kings or posts on either side with enough load bearing strength to transfer the new opening weight to the foundation.
The end result looks great! If doing this yourself - please consult an engineer to do this properly.
Nice job!
It would be interesting to know more about the beam in the attic. People are freaking out over it but it could be ok, depending on what exactly you did.
If I dare nitpick more than people are already doing, those walls often contains asbestos. I advise wearing a p100 respirator, zoning off your renos with plastic sheets and venting the dust outside with box fans.
Well put!
If he already posted the video that means he already did it...kinda late to put the respirator on now lol
@@hondamoto-rb6bk
As a home owner, you are never done working on your house. Maybe he will use the advice for next time.
@@okkrom it was a joke
@@hondamoto-rb6bk Im a very serious guy!
: )
Taking that wall down was a great move. It looks amazing now
Wow!!! Thank you for sharing.
Great I wish we had RUclips when I was younger we learned on the job, great to see young people take care of there own. Awesome job!
Always use a voltage sniffer,,,,even if the breakers are off......never know what some idiot did before you....never trust anyone.
Good information! Thx for posting👍🏼
The wife did before he worked on it
Even more of an idiot if you only have a “voltage sniffer”
You can not harrass me and my child in one room . I need a kitchen and she needs a staircase to play.in the garden downstairs.Hera and Saba you are truely gruesome
lol did you find out the hard way?
Really good work, very clean!
Wow 😮 thats really hard and Amazing 🤩👌🏻 keep going
I likethe end hahahahaha.. that’s me every time I try to fix something in my house then everything keeps breaking and the endless job begins I wanna cry and give up...
If you're following videos like this you can expect to continue to have shitty results.
Great job 👍 you make it look so easy it’s amazing what you can do in 11 minutes !! 😃
Enjoyed watching video man!! You got down!!!
Turned out really nice!!
Both sides of beam needed to support by post beam to support the load bearing weight. 6 inch lag screws are very strong but post beam with concrete footing would be the safest way.
Something very few people consider when removing a wall..The extra weight of the beam and ceiling load is now transfered to those outside kingstuds and to the Floor. Does anyone add additional support to the floor joists?
Wow nice job, so cool ! Love the bloopers !!!
Thinking of removing a wall very impressive thank you so much for top tips :)
Good job - good video - and the out-takes at the end remind us that it wasn't as easy as it first looked - I snicker at all the "you should have done this you should have done that" comments" - You did just good
Stick to what you do best. Animation can't be easy and your'e pretty good at it.
lol as if someone in Animation would know if he did it correctly or not. You're not an engineer dude.
You snicker at people trying to point out huge safety hazards? Sure hope people don’t watch this video and think it’s correct and someone gets killed. But keep on snickering.
You took out some major support, and replace it with a floating header.
Agreed.
Once drywall was off, there was a header over openning, indicates load bearing and while in the attic, joist are cut and lapped together, another flag of load bearing.
I did not see any joists or the old double top plate sitting on that 4x4 header... confirmed a floating header.
Def
This video is beyond idiotic
how do you know that it's a load bearing wall?
@@mojo5093 Typically, the easiest way to determine if a wall is load bearing is to look at the trusses/joists above the wall. If they run perpendicularly to the wall in question, theres a high chance the wall is load bearing.
Great vid, no wasting time, fat trimming, get to the point. excellent work.
Nice work 👍 also If any House build before 1978 might got some asbestos and lead paint maybe need to test before start do the project. These substances can damage our lungs.
From the looks of it. That is a load bearing wall. You did not put the right size header and you would need to put more than one stud to hold up that beam. And also you would need to put a new footing underneath that stud to support the new heavier load. This is not the correct way to do it. You are risking the integrity of your house.
yes, birds too.
Yep if it was your roof would have ur lucky
yea he put a beam up in the roof dude. did you not watch to pay attention lol
Ian Dang sure I saw that. But that’s not the proper way to support a wall you are not sure is a load bearing wall or not. He say in the video he is not sure it’s load bearing or not. By showing the improper way of doing it, he gives the wrong message to people in the same situation that they can put a beam on top and it will hold the house up. If he stated that he was doing it this way and that people should get the advise of a architect or engineer than it wouldn’t cause such a big backlash.
That`s the first thing I said when seen this, that is a load bearing wall and now it`s suspended from attic, not suported from beneath. Here in continenal Europe we mostly build brick houses and you cant rearange walls later as you wish so this is a beauty of wood framed houses, you can alwas rearange layout but you have to do it right way.
HMM YES IM WANTING TO GO FOR AN OPEN CONCEPT HERE
You do fantastic work.
*Legend has it, he was never seen coming out of the house again!*
legend has it
@@tasangerbakes ?
@@jimaragon2110 u fixed it
@@tasangerbakes i believe you. Hes the type of guy to play dumb instead of saying thanks.
@@FreeStuffPlease smh
delete this video before you sell your house...4x4 for a header with no supporting studs, no king, no jack..DO NOT USE THIS VIDEO AS A TUTORIAL anyone.
I wonder if his insurance would use this video against him when he claims..
That was my first reaction too a 4x4 with no support is useless but he did put a support beam in the attic.
@@confusedcynic9073 yea but he didnt really show the arrangement of his roof system. If I were to guess, I'd say he simply added the load of the wall to the roof system which would take away from the live load as there are no additional upright supports in compression. So hanging more weight up there would just be like adding a couple hundred pounds to your attic rafters. in the end it'll probably be fine, but its shitty work that looks nice enough, but should be corrected.
but it is on trusses not a cut and stack so that's not a load bearing wall. Just look at 2:00 mark, theres no load
@@Natedoc808 what are trusses? Sorry I’m learning. So he did it wrong?
Looks beautiful
beautiful work sir
That definitely was a load bearing wall. Throwing a floating header with some hurricane clips attaching said header to the ceiling joists is not at all the proper way to support that opening. Those hurricane clips are made to attatch the rafters/trusses to the exterior walls in order to keep them from lifting in extreme winds (like hurricanes/tornadoes), NOT for supporting a roof load. You seem smart, just please leave major renovations like this to professional contractors. Someone could lose their life down the line if that "header" fails.
Exactly. Luckily for me my best friend's husband is a contractor, so he's in charge of any and all wall removals in my home. There's a lot I'll tackle myself, but nothing structural.
The only load that wall was bearing is the ceiling. The exterior walls of a house carry the weight of the roof. And he added not only a beam in the attic, but a 4x4 beam as a header.
@@jmad318 that 4x4 isnt bearing any weight. He used the incorrect hangers on the header. And that wall definitely was bearing weight. He will probably get away with it, but any inspector is going to tag that
Well there's no way he'll get sued later down the road because there is no proof he did it....oh wait....
Just caught: "I took this opportunity to heighten and widen the opening into the kitchen" aka remove the header and studs hahaha
love the ending, I can relate 100%. most videos or shows don't show the "hiccups". I've been doing renovations for almost 12 years. My apprentice/friend loves it when I have my struggle fits.
good job Bennie 👍
Hello, browsing RUclips you came to this video, I don't know much English but I loved the work you did, I subscribed to your channel because I like to support talented young people and workers like you, greetings from Puerto Rico and I wish you much success In everything you undertake, I would like to know that you read my message, thank you and God bless you.
Nice work man! Just out of curiosity, how long did the overall project take you? Also, nice hack with the clamp 😁.
"It was unclear if this was a major supporting wall or not". Why was it unclear, or did you just not bother to look and/or probe?
Does the help come with a caring bodyguard for my child
Did you guys not see 1:59? There's a huge beam carrying the load above the opening. So there's no need for a header below it.
@@JulesBondTF2 That 'beam' literally carries zero load. If you can't understand how loads work and think adding that 'beam' in the attic adds any value, PLEASE DO NOT DO THIS YOURSELF.
@@bsiudy I mean the floor beams are clearly connected to the new beam (with questionably few screws though) , so the load over the new opening is transfered up into the beam and carried out to each side of the opening. If there are walls which are strong enough to carry the new load on each side of the opening, I don't really see the issue here.
@@JulesBondTF2 You don't see the issue? LOL
Wow It looks amazing tfs
Beautiful work 👍🏻
should've used two laminated 2x8's with 1/2" ply between. Also needs at least 3" of end bearing which means a double cripple
Anand Lucertini I was thinking the same thing...hoping it’s not a weight bearing wall...then structural support below is important too. Could’ve also used lvl, sometimes comes at 1 3/4 thick so no need for ply.
Always a pro some where in the comment section
@@dukenukem8493 well when you do this for a living
@@chalupagrande8544 yup, hopefully there is something below for point load. I mean if he was in the moment and he had 2x8's, they could've worked. What he actually should've done is look at the architectural drawings to determine what type of wall was there
Pretty sure you mean a double Jack or King stud... Cripple has nothing to do with this.
Also, not sure what your codes are but you'd never get away with anything less than a doubled up 2x10 here for that span.
‘To get a more open concept’
Nice work, man!
You did a great job
That is not correct way to support temporary studs. It needs both vertical and lateral load support so the load would travel down. The rafters run perpendicular to the beam that is a load bearing wall.... 2x8 door header suggested it was load bearing wall...triple your studs top and sides and you'll be fine... 😅 😆 😊 DIY at it's best..
SC 03 needs 4x12 with 4x4 studs
SC 03 shut up Meg
@@GODofDeeStruction what you talking about Willis?
Man look at all the expert youtube remodelers coming out of the woodwork...
Great job man!
I just realized how many times I have watched this😂
Great job👏 How did u match up the floor though ?!
This was (or could be potentially) pretty dangerous. I hope you went through and redid the structural integrity of that load bearing wall. Never EVER replace a load bearing wall with a floating header unless you know what you're doing (in this case you didn't). Read the comments below, we don't want to ridicule or anything, but want safety in a (anyone's) home. This is what not to do.
Nothing dangerous, he installed a massive load bearing beam in the roof before taking the wall down. Job well done
@@swaziau if it is a bearing wall, the post which support the new beam, need reinforce the footing ( foundation) to support the load. also need metal strip to tide beam, post and footing together.
Ben, I am loving these videos! They are very neat and interesting to watch!
Thanks for the bloopers. LoL, plus I can so relate.
Good job Ben!
A few problems here bro .
To make a header you take 2 2x4 or larger studs and sandwich osb or plywood between them nailing them together .
For the spanning distance in the video it's either 2x6 or 2x8's , a 4x4 isn't made for that job you need to look at the ibc tables to figure out the lumber requirements.
As for the corners you need studs under the header to carry it's weight screws are not good enough .
If the electrical is in the way just move it over like you did with the switches , never compromise structural integrity for speed and simplify .
Other than that your finished look is great.
Do not remove a walk this way. First of all, always check if it's a load bearing wall or not, second, do not use a 4x4 as a header, must be 2 2x8's sandwiched together
You are an electrician!! Awesome!
Nicely done 👏🏼👏🏼
This is a great video how not to do it, not using a purple lead certified respirator, need at least 2 x 2x8 beam for the header and it needs to be lifted by jack studs before being screwed in. need at least 2 or 3 jack studs attatched properly to bottom plate.
Love the videos, keep em coming
This is so satisfying
Good job man looks sick
I'm loving your videos ❤️👌
Should have bagged off part of the house to protect it from the drywall dust Ect...
Painter's plastic, tape it floor to ceiling.
Dude great video! Very helpful. Also thought it was cool that u showed the behind the scenes at the end.
You made it look so easy and effortless. -_- False advertisement!!! 🤣
Where I live in the US, re-moving a load-bearing wall requires a permit! That includes drawings, inspections, including consultation with a Structural Engineer ($), etc.
I can't believe this didn't require a building permit ?
Not when you are doing it in your mom's house.
It does, he just didn't get one... I don't get permits either.
Renovations are indeed easier in houses made of paper. Our house is made of stone. Nice job 👍
What a miserable comment, lol. Bet you have zero real friends.
You did a good job hope I can find out if mine can be opened up before I make a mess :-)
Great job man
Instead of trying to match jagged cuts why not just square off the pieces that were broken off?
i think they did the "lets not make smart choices" challenge