First of all I was looking at your video list and if you are the person in all those videos doing the work you are pretty diverse second you have ridiculous amount of detail I appreciate that I will be checking out more videos
Thank you. That is me in all of the videos. I am someone that can do about anything. I have always been frugal with money and I have taught myself how to do a lot of skills to save money. I am also very particular about how things are done and am not real comfortable allowing others to do the work for me. I have about another 80 videos that I am going to be adding this winter.
@@doityourselfdenniscom I'm Definitely coming back to learn more because I can relate to the frugal learn to do it yourself and my dad could fix anything so I have some belief I'm just like him not sure I'm as talented haha
You have to remember this is a non-load bearing wall. So, essentially there is no real down pressure on the header. It is more to have something to nail your trim to. I did this in my personal house several years ago and have had no issues. If it was more load bearing, you would need a bigger header and it would have to go all the way across solid.
If you are asking about the bottom plate. Because it wasn't even with the floor. Removing it allowed me to put some wood in there to make the floor even. Hope this helps. If not let me know.
I wish I had seen this video before i started work, but it didnt show up in search until after. It would have saved me two sheets of drywall and a strip of scotia haha. Oh well. That wall was fairly tired anyway.
Yes you can. But you have to know if it is a bearing wall or not. Regardless there are ways of widening it on both, you just have to know how. There is a big difference.
@@Eastbaypisces Most exterior walls are load bearing and some interior. It depends on what type of roof system you have. What they call stick built, which is rafters, or if the roof sytem is trusses.
Hey Dennis! I've enjoyed your video - thanks so much! A quick question about how you finish this opening - how do you? Do you drywall the threshold or what? Thanks!
Thank you, glad I can help. You can drywall it or on this particular job I trimmed it out with one by and trim to match the door casing. I like the trim best.
It kind of depends on what is holding up the plaster, chicken wire or wood lathe. Wood lathe would be the easier of the two, but it still would not be easy. You would most likely have to use some kind of power tool like a recipricating saw, but then you are taking a big chance of cutting wires or anything else that is hidden in the walls. Without seeing the actual job, it is hard to say what would be the best course to take.
Slightly echoing what Dennis said, you need to find a way to safely remove the plaster without potentially cutting any wires or pipes behind the lath. A drywall knife will not be strong enough to cut it. Demoing plaster is actually quite easy: a few whacks with a mini-sledge and it'll explode off the wall. Fun but messy. Regulate the power of your swings and you should be able to leave the main structure of the lath in place enough to protect what's behind it. Your issue with will instead be: how do you make sure the plaster stops cracking at the exact borders of the space I want to remove? This is something I've been attempting to figure out for a closet expansion in my own house and here's my idea: If you can find something short enough (like a dremel, maybe? spitballing on that one) to first cut out the border like how Dennis uses the drywall knife, the remainder of the wall should generally be protected from the force of your demo. Be prepared for the need to fix some cosmetic cracks.
@@zoomiesnoopy hi Kendall, we are looking to do a closet expansion from a single door to a double door in our 1880 home. Horse hair plaster. Would love any tips if you have any? Sounds like you may have been doing a similar job!
@@leawaybright9158 Basically....if you have wood lathe all you should need to worry about is having a grinder with a diamond coated blade. Pay close attention to if it's getting worn out because the sharper it is the cleaner the cut. Score the plaster and take as much time and care as you need to get through it all. It might take 2-3 passes to get all the way through, but better that then to have to fix all the edges. If you have metal mesh lathe, you'll probably have to cut it all in one piece because it usually doesn't want to crumble. In either case, tape and plastic off the area as much as possible...seal cracks and shove rags under doors. Get those tyvek full body suits and wear goggles and a respirator. Anything and everything you can do to make the dust more controlled and easier to dispose of you will thank yourself for.
@@zoomiesnoopy thank you for the advice! I really appreciate it! Will I only find out if I have metal mesh lath when I cut into it? Also I’m having trouble find videos of how to frame the opening with plaster walls. Any tips or videos you’ve seen? Is it all the same once you’ve cut back the opening? Thank you again!
Your return will be an issue 24” x 3 1/4 opening which is the stud cavity can not be made up by going up the wall as the opening will still be half of the existing area. (12 x 3 1/4.)
Hi Dennis, Vladimir here with NTD Television. Our team was very impressed by your video and our editors would like to showcase it by uploading and crediting you on some of our social media pages and websites so that our fans can see it. We are one of the world's fastest growing media companies with over 100 million fans and 1 billion monthly video views across all of our social properties. Our motto is truth, hope, and humanity. Can I send you more information in my next message / email? Thank you! Warm regards
Greetings dear Dennis, Thank you for your reply and sending email. I will send detailed information via vladimir.holecka@ntdtv.org . Please take a look if it is not hidden in spam box. Kind regards, Vladimir
Another tool that works well that is easier to handle is made by dremmel tools. It has an oscillating blade that goes back and forth and is quite a bit smaller than a sawzall. There are other brands of the same type. You can buy them at Lowes or Home depot.
Great Video. Very educational. It is nice to hear it from someone you know is a professional !
Thank you.
Excellent video Dennis. You explained and showed how even a weekend warrior can understand.
Thank you.
Thank-you. This was a straight forward and easy to understand. No wasted time with music and gimmicks. Great instructional video.
Thank you, I try to explain things in a way that the average homeowner can understand.
Thank you, Dennis, for making the video easy for others to understand, especially for those who are not in this line of work.
Thank you.
Wow what a great video tutorial! Thanks for sharing your expertise!
Thank you.
First of all I was looking at your video list and if you are the person in all those videos doing the work you are pretty diverse second you have ridiculous amount of detail I appreciate that I will be checking out more videos
Thank you. That is me in all of the videos. I am someone that can do about anything. I have always been frugal with money and I have taught myself how to do a lot of skills to save money. I am also very particular about how things are done and am not real comfortable allowing others to do the work for me. I have about another 80 videos that I am going to be adding this winter.
@@doityourselfdenniscom I'm Definitely coming back to learn more because I can relate to the frugal learn to do it yourself and my dad could fix anything so I have some belief I'm just like him not sure I'm as talented haha
@@Emily-sv4bp You can learn anything if you set your mind to it. Of course youtube helps these days.
Just what i was looking for. Thanks.
Thank you for this video! I am opening up our bedroom closet door into double louver doors and this will do the trick! Thanks Dennis!
You are welcome.
Good, glad I could help.
How did it go? I want to open doorway to the kitchen.
Greetings,
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and skills.
May the Lord God Almighty bless you for taking the time to do so..
You are quite welcome.
so this i totally ok just adding on to a header like that with a split somewhere in the middle of the opening?
You have to remember this is a non-load bearing wall. So, essentially there is no real down pressure on the header. It is more to have something to nail your trim to. I did this in my personal house several years ago and have had no issues. If it was more load bearing, you would need a bigger header and it would have to go all the way across solid.
Is the spirit level accurate enough to create the horizontal and vertical lines for the opening?
Yes it is accurate enough if your level is itself accurate.
Thanks for posting. I'd like to see how you finished it, too. Quick question, why did you have to take the board along the bottom out?
If you are asking about the bottom plate. Because it wasn't even with the floor. Removing it allowed me to put some wood in there to make the floor even. Hope this helps. If not let me know.
I'd hate to use a reciprocating saw for drywall. It makes such loud vibrations to a material that is not even that dense. Thanks for the video.
I wish I had seen this video before i started work, but it didnt show up in search until after. It would have saved me two sheets of drywall and a strip of scotia haha. Oh well. That wall was fairly tired anyway.
Sorry you didn't see it.
Gloves?
Those studs are bloody good timber.
Yes they are.
You can actual use a oscillating multi-tool as well. Much faster than I drywall knife and a lot more control than a reciprocating saw.
Very good idea. The oscillating tools are great. Thanks.
@@doityourselfdenniscom No problem and thank you. I thoroughly enjoyed the video.
Can you widen a doorway to make the room open up more but not actually take down the whole wall?
Yes you can. But you have to know if it is a bearing wall or not. Regardless there are ways of widening it on both, you just have to know how. There is a big difference.
@@doityourselfdenniscom how u know if it's load bearing
@@Eastbaypisces Most exterior walls are load bearing and some interior. It depends on what type of roof system you have. What they call stick built, which is rafters, or if the roof sytem is trusses.
Hey Dennis! I've enjoyed your video - thanks so much! A quick question about how you finish this opening - how do you? Do you drywall the threshold or what? Thanks!
Thank you, glad I can help. You can drywall it or on this particular job I trimmed it out with one by and trim to match the door casing. I like the trim best.
How long do you think it would take if you want to extend an opening by just 6 inches on a non load bearing wall?
It shouldn't take too long. But, it is hard saying without looking at it.
Good Video;;; Gloves--would have to be used also
Thanks, yes gloves would have been a good idea.
Great video! This was very helpful. Do you have any suggestions for doing the same in a plaster wall (not drywall), or could we use the same method?
It kind of depends on what is holding up the plaster, chicken wire or wood lathe. Wood lathe would be the easier of the two, but it still would not be easy. You would most likely have to use some kind of power tool like a recipricating saw, but then you are taking a big chance of cutting wires or anything else that is hidden in the walls. Without seeing the actual job, it is hard to say what would be the best course to take.
Slightly echoing what Dennis said, you need to find a way to safely remove the plaster without potentially cutting any wires or pipes behind the lath. A drywall knife will not be strong enough to cut it. Demoing plaster is actually quite easy: a few whacks with a mini-sledge and it'll explode off the wall. Fun but messy. Regulate the power of your swings and you should be able to leave the main structure of the lath in place enough to protect what's behind it. Your issue with will instead be: how do you make sure the plaster stops cracking at the exact borders of the space I want to remove? This is something I've been attempting to figure out for a closet expansion in my own house and here's my idea: If you can find something short enough (like a dremel, maybe? spitballing on that one) to first cut out the border like how Dennis uses the drywall knife, the remainder of the wall should generally be protected from the force of your demo. Be prepared for the need to fix some cosmetic cracks.
@@zoomiesnoopy hi Kendall, we are looking to do a closet expansion from a single door to a double door in our 1880 home. Horse hair plaster. Would love any tips if you have any? Sounds like you may have been doing a similar job!
@@leawaybright9158 Basically....if you have wood lathe all you should need to worry about is having a grinder with a diamond coated blade. Pay close attention to if it's getting worn out because the sharper it is the cleaner the cut. Score the plaster and take as much time and care as you need to get through it all. It might take 2-3 passes to get all the way through, but better that then to have to fix all the edges.
If you have metal mesh lathe, you'll probably have to cut it all in one piece because it usually doesn't want to crumble.
In either case, tape and plastic off the area as much as possible...seal cracks and shove rags under doors. Get those tyvek full body suits and wear goggles and a respirator. Anything and everything you can do to make the dust more controlled and easier to dispose of you will thank yourself for.
@@zoomiesnoopy thank you for the advice! I really appreciate it!
Will I only find out if I have metal mesh lath when I cut into it?
Also I’m having trouble find videos of how to frame the opening with plaster walls. Any tips or videos you’ve seen? Is it all the same once you’ve cut back the opening?
Thank you again!
Your return will be an issue 24” x 3 1/4 opening which is the stud cavity can not be made up by going up the wall as the opening will still be half of the existing area. (12 x 3 1/4.)
Been like that for 6 years now and haven't had any issues. By the way, the opening is not 3 1/4, it is 3 1/2.
Hi Dennis,
Vladimir here with NTD Television. Our team was very impressed by your video and our editors would like to showcase it by uploading and crediting you on some of our social media pages and websites so that our fans can see it. We are one of the world's fastest growing media companies with over 100 million fans and 1 billion monthly video views across all of our social properties. Our motto is truth, hope, and humanity. Can I send you more information in my next message / email?
Thank you!
Warm regards
Can you send me more information to dennis@pruningpartner.com
Greetings dear Dennis, Thank you for your reply and sending email. I will send detailed information via vladimir.holecka@ntdtv.org . Please take a look if it is not hidden in spam box. Kind regards, Vladimir
@@ntdtv I received it. I will take a look.
I tried this. Couldn't control the sawzall blade. Cut wasn't level. Drywall was 1" thick. I'm ready to be done with this closet.
Another tool that works well that is easier to handle is made by dremmel tools. It has an oscillating blade that goes back and forth and is quite a bit smaller than a sawzall. There are other brands of the same type. You can buy them at Lowes or Home depot.
It is called an oscillating multi tool.
I have the next location for next video--my house
You forgot the goggles when nailing!
Not uncommon for me.
You need a new blade on that saw Dennis.