Great video guys! Hoomeowners should consult a structural engineer before doing this. They didn't explain that the ceiling load was distributed throughout the 2x4s of the original wall and onto the floor joists. When you install the beam on top of two 4x4 posts, the load is now distributed to those two 4x4 posts and they need to be placed onto the floor in a location that can support the extra load; the placement is not random.
@@sleepmachine7522 If there is a basement you need to ensure that wherever those two 4x4's are bearing down on the floor joist below it's capable of supporting the load. When he says "unless it's a slab" he means unless the floor is a concrete slab with no floor below. If there is only a concrete slab foundation below then it would be more than capable of holding the focused weight.
Really, this is more difficult than it absolutely has to be. The homeowner must have wanted the beam set into the ceiling such that it didn't protrude into the living space at all. That difference made this much more involved than it might have been otherwise.
Those group of people that are silly and soft in the head thinking wood was bending because a fish eye lens was used , should not take on home improvement projects and attempt to use dangerous power tools . Thank you for a great Video. . Job well done.
Looks great!! ... but I'm sure shortly after installation ...the homeowner wished he'd have had you run the LVL beam all the way to the outside wall...You could have removed that doorway as well...would have been totally open...
AWESOME to see YOUNG guys interested in working with their hands these days! Seems like most younger guys are interested in sitting at a computer terminal instead of BUILDING/MAKING something. Keep up the Banging Matt!!!
There will always be blue collar men that like wrenching or building things that aren't afraid to get dirty. The problem is modern liberals have made it (or coined the term) "toxic masculinity" to be a man and act like a man and they own all the media from TV, to tech to most major publication companies and even our schools and colleges so all we hear about is the attempt to indoctrination with praising the soy drinking in touch with their feminist side beta males getting all the attention these days, not real men that know right from wrong and aren't afraid of hard work. We all need to be vocal too and make it clear that the blue collar men are what make society work and they are the real hero's in the western world or this cuck trend will only get worse...
@@AtomicReverend Could you provide some example of soy drink and being in touch with feminist side that modern liberals commonly voice out? I guess you could say I'm a modern liberal in CA, but I wrench on my own car and get my hands dirty when possible. I work a tech job and occasionally style my hair that is commonly stereotyped as well. I appreciate the effort blue collar workers do. Yet despite all this, I don't really understand what makes us a problem? I don't view blue collar men any less than white collar men. In big cities where cost of living is higher, it just makes sense financially to choose a white collar job over a blue collar job in the long run. Assuming there is always consistent self-growth, the white collar salary would continue to go up the more you age vs blue collar job where opportunities dwindle due to age and loss in strength. As a "modern liberal", I choose and voice for services to help all (including those that chose blue collar jobs and are outside of their prime) so people in general can live a relatively comfortable life
@@megaxzero88 man, do any of you ever do research before you comment... I guess I am stereo typing but that is a different subject. Let's use Starbucks as they are as far as I know the biggest coffee house on the planet and definitely stereotyped as the liberal met up place. How about the caffe latté? Or the caffe mocha? How about Caramel Macchiatos? Or the Chestnut Praline Latte? Do I need to go on? It is a fact that soy produces synthetic estrogen and if consumed in large amounts it can actually affect a male's testosterone levels. As for White Collar jobs paying more than blue collar jobs that is a normal myth that we have all heard for 30 or 40 years that doesn't stand up under scrutiny, look up the pay a journeyman electrician makes or a journeyman ironworker or a Automotive assembly plant worker, look lookup an ase-certified master technician that's the mechanic that works on your car at a dealership or most professional shops, how about a journeyman (or certified) plumber or a journeyman (or certified) contractor... All of these jobs have crazy high pays once you are seasoned with a great skill set. Agian you start off at the bottom just like you do with any job or career and you work your way up. As an example an entry-level framer in Southern California makes about $20 an hour which isn't bad pay for a starting wage that requires no schooling, if he sticks with the job and becomes a master Carpenter over about 5 to 10 years time he will make up words of 45 to 55 bucks an hour... Great pay and he is the one you have to thank when you can close your door at night. I am not talking bad on White Collar jobs, but for literally 40 years every youth has been told that they have to go to college to get a good job they end up in 50 to $100,000 worth of debt right out the gate for a job market that is generally flooded with accountants and liberal arts people (and the other jobs that 40+ years ago paid well), even cyber-security is starting to get flooded because of the amount of college graduates entering the emerging field... I am not saying the pay isn't good in any of those jobs because I'm sure there are plenty of examples of it paying well but my point still remains the blue collar worker is the unsung hero of society he is the one that gives you a roof he is the one that makes your bodily waste go away, he is the one that makes your car run, he or she is the one that sells you your food, that grows your food, that trucks your food and almost all of those jobs actually require more then labor but literally the years of hands-on experience... an automotive mechanic takes two years just to become an entry-level to become an ase-certified master technician generally it is a five to eight year process. All your journeyman Union jobs take about 5 years of going to school every other weekend... Also blue collar men generally get plenty of exercise and don't need a gym membership and even as we age those who are physically active are generally healthier but there is a lot of variables to that statement but you think once party will actually give out is a bunch of crap also. I have been in the construction field for going on 20 years and I have a good diet and a killer physique for my age group and I would never step foot into a gym but again I degress.
@@AtomicReverend First off, I'm going to keep this brief because there is no point in discussing this any further. Anything I say that doesn't fall in line with your mindset is immediately taken as offense to you. 1) Not sure why you need to say I haven't done any research? I worked on cars and received two ASE certificates before admitting this is not something long term for me. I know there is money in blue collar labor 2) All those drinks you listed are milk based. Soy is just an alternative and personally, most soy drinkers I know are female. 3) I'm glad you have a great physique, but that's not what I see here in LA with most blue collar jobs. No matter what physical labor takes a toll on the back, knee, joints.
You could also use 2 or 3 studs(commonly known as a stud pack)if you have extra instead of a post, also you could use a sawzall and cut through the nails at the bottom and top of the studs in the old wall removing the whole stud with less dust and clean up than cutting them in the middle, you could also use the sawzall to cut on each side of the top plate of the old wall using the edge of the plate as a guide removing the plate while also cutting the space for the beam without having to pop lines
And, if done properly, reuse the studs for the post as you mentioned. Just be sure you know and follow the nailing schedule to assemble it, or better follow it using screws that reach all three studs.
Yeah the part he doesn't talk about is people watch this thinking they can do it then people like me get paid to fix everything costing twice as much if not more.... pay a insured professional
This is literally the most helpful video on this topic I’ve seen so far! Now I just need strong men to come do labor for me! I’m intimidated to do it alone 😬 but this video did help me understand the process a lot better!
I like this concept... the music too! I understand a few steps were missed for this video to be a fully instructional. Would be nice if you would just mention the missed steps somewhere in the video so as to keep your audiences informed of them. Each job is different and I really liked this residential reno project you showed... framing videos ressemble each other after a while, especially when plans are not shown. This video is very much in tune with what I do (extension, additions, strengthening, full and partial reconstructions, etc.) and I am sure many of your viewers enjoyed this work detour of yours. Good video
Someone else mentioned it to, but this is literally the layout of my house (kitchen, living room, dining area, hallway) and I am looking in the future to remove the same section of wall as well. While I probably won't be able to do it myself and will hire in, this really gives me an insane level of insight on how my house constructed!! Very cool!
Yeah I'm probably not doing this myself either - would love to but looking at the tooling and work involved - I'll leave the load bearing work to the experts
@@nocalfnarwhal8858 I ended up having a kitchen remodel company come in. Due to the small size of the kitchen, it was easier for someone with more experience to assist with the layout and build out. We ended up cutting a large window from the corner of the kitchen to the hallway entrance, added a 2x10 header for load bearing and expanded the counter out into the living room area, but only by a foot or so. Worked out really well and has hugely expanded the space!
Not being in construction, your video is very impressive. I have a load bearing wall in my master bath. want to remodel so now I have a beginners understanding of how to! Thanks!!
worn out asbestos can be a hit or miss, my stepfather and a few of my relatives worked at asbestos plants and never wore masks and they are in their 80s still kicking. Sure it might cause harm to certain people and those that are constantly sucking it in but it has been blown out of proportion because it becomes a multi billion dollar industry when it comes to remediation and permits
So im rebuilding a travel trailer and today i framed a wall and i used techniques you show and ive never been more excited with the out come of my work, please keep the videos coming love learning and seeing you build America lol
I’m super stoked to hear it went well! Funny you mention this.. We’re going to be doing a “Building a Tiny House in a Day” video soon.. Where we take a decked trailer, and attempt to frame, side, roof, paint, set windows and doors, and be ready for electrical and plumbing inside.. ALL in 8 hours! It should be fun!
Older video but I now understand how this is going to work when I have this done. I am wanting to turn my 2 car garage, with 2 roll up doors, into 1 roll up door. This will have to be done. Thanks !! 👍
Careful on what houses you choose to do this with as it didn’t have much weight above it at all. I’m just probably sharing with you what you already know. This is a ranch I believe and everyday fewer and fewer houses have nothing above the main floor. Again you probably know this I’m just sharing in for support of what you do. Joke intended aka support
Matt, I realize that videos are limited in showing all that is done, but I do have a question: Did you glue and screw the LVL’s to each other once you raised them? Keep up the instructional component in your videos; you have excellent knack for teaching.
Hello Roy. Great question because following the proper nailing pattern on a LVL beam is crucial for proper load transfer through the beam. Nails or screws in an LVL is sufficient with the load they are carrying in this video but you should NEVER glue LVL together as this will actually keep the plys from acting as one solid beam. The glue can not bond the wood fibers together like in conventional lumber due to the water resistant coating the is applied to the LVL surface at the factory.
Hi Matt. My husband and I are about to remove our kitchen/dining area wall as part of our Kitchen remodel/expansion. We have an identical situation as in the above video, where we have ceiling joists running perpendicular to the double top plate over the existing wall. We have been told that we may need to add a 2x2x2 footing under the stud pack on either end of the new 12'-14' beam that will replace the wall to make an open concept kitchen. Our house is 1 story, and the area where the beam is replacing the wall doesn't have any other structure sitting on top of the wall. Just the joists of an 8 foot wide kitchen ceiling and its drywall. So the proposed solution is identical to your video. What we don't understand is that we haven't seen any other videos like this where they have added a pier/expanded foundation under the stud pack, or fortified the outside wall where the other stud pack is going. Why would we ever need to expand the footing on either side for such a little wall removal job??
Great vid. Got yourself a new subscriber. One critical assessment I had is that you never talked about what was below the columns you put in. If that was a wall supporting only ceiling load the floor joists might have been able to support that out to wherever the footings are. With the install of the purlins at the mid span of the roof, combined with supports bringing now new load down to that wall line is a lot of new load. Even if just the ceiling joists are loading that new beam, that’s a questionable distributed load that is now two point loads, down to something you never mentioned. Loved the video. Its great to see the thought process and execution of a skilled framer.
Nice! So much more straight forward in the US. In Europe we have te get a big ass metal I-beam, and a whole lot of brick removal. Takes up to two days with 3 people.
That's what I was thinking, where's the part of the video showing load transfer all the way down to foundation or footer? even is there's a beam below where are the squash blocks ?
Great Video. One question though: What do these 4x4 posts sit on? You need to make sure the loads from these posts can be safely transferred down to the foundations.
To clarify some questions about comments referring to transferring loads to the floor joists: The key to load bearing beams is that the load is transferred to the GROUND. Engineers calculate the load capacity to determine if the new load points (the 4x4s he installed to rest the new LVL beam on) can be transferred to the floor joists, or if they need to transfer directly to the foundation, or the ground below. It's important to remember that the posts holding up the floor transfer the load of the floor to the foundation, or the packed ground below the foundation. Steel or iron or reinforced concrete columns are what typically hold up the floor joists in between the foundation walls. If this altered load displacement to the new beam was deemed too heavy, the engineer would require them to go below the house and install new columns mounted to a poured concrete base - nowadays, the columns are usually steel if installed in a basement, or wood if installed just below the floor. My guess is since a 4x4 above the floor is enough to transfer the load down, a 4x4 below the floor would likely be enough to pick it up and transfer it to the ground) - mounted to a poured concrete base. Usually, you would dig a hole in the ground a minimum depth - typically 3-4 feet deep, with a minimum width or diameter - with a column bracket mounted into the center of the top of the concrete base before it dries. Then mount the steel column in the bracket and secure it to the floor joists, directly in line with the 4x4s above that support the weight of the beam. If you do this correctly, the load never really touches the floor at all, the weight load is transferred directly into the ground by way of the new columns below the 4x4s. If you DON'T need to build new load bases, then the engineer determined that the weight of the load the beam is supporting is low enough for the floor joists below the 4x4s to transfer the weight to the nearest floor supports, and then into the ground from there. But even when this is the case, they want the 4x4s to be placed directly ON a floor joist, not in between them, to ensure the JOISTS transfer the load to the ground supports, not the sub-floor above them, that's how your sub-floor eventually breaks apart and cracks your nice tile or hardwood floors. My guess is that the location of the 4x4s - at the end of the previous load-bearing wall and at the end of the wall that makes the entrance into the kitchen from the hallway - are in spots that were already located on top of floor joists. So as long as the beam didn't breach a maximum length (i.e. didn't pick up the load of more than "X" number of roof trusses/ceiling joists hangered to the new beam), they didn't have to install new supports down below the 4x4s under the floor. But when you remove a load bearing wall and replace it with a spanning beam, ALWAYS get a structural engineer to calculate the load first and give you the minimum specs to meet code - NEVER make these assumptions yourself. These specs WILL include any newly required supports necessary below the floor. And yes, permits are absolutely required to alter structure, EVEN if the homeowner does the work themselves. Looks like these guys did a nice job, even accounting for the weight of the rafters, relocating the support braces temporarily to prevent sagging, and then installing new braces from the purlins to the beam to properly transfer the rafter load to the 4x4s. They accounted for everything. Which is why I'm guessing they had the load calculations approved, to know they didn't have to add any structural support below the 4x4s. We don't know for sure, because he never mentions it, but it's a safe guess. Nice work.
I am interested in seeing how the purlins and lvl beam looked at completion. I did not see where they were attached to complete the support. Excellent work and video, closing on a 1960 home and am looking to open the kitchen interior wall to the dining and living rooms for entertaining purposes and install an island. 24' Span single story. Definitely excited. Thanks!!!!!
Good job Matt🤗 I’ve got a 1954 California Ranch style house here in Orange County, Ca. This model has a 16’ span that runs directly under the Ridge of the roof. The original builder installed a 6’wide x5’ tall privacy pony wall under and to the side of the 16’ long beam. At the end of the pony wall “Was” a 4x4 post. Meaning the unsupported span “Was” 10-11 feet. Everybody is this neighborhood took it out for aesthetic reasons. 30 years later everybody has saggy ceiling (1/2”- 3/4”) and huge crack running the entire 16 foot span. I’m so tempted to just jack it up and build another pony wall with support. The original beam is a 4x12 that I should sister some LVLs to. Guess those old timers knew what they were doing with that pony wall / support. Anyways.... good video, you are a talented teacher/video editor. I will hit subscribe and like👍🏼
I wasn't really sure who I was going to be targeting with this video, and I had to make sure it was done fairly quick, so I skipped over a few things I wish I could have added.. Got the basics! This build in particular is a subfloor.. So 4x6" blocking underneath is necessary! :)
@@MattBangsWood Great video! The 2 things I would of added: 1 What Dad Said above and 2 would be a reference to beam sizing, so people don't go sticking 2x4's or 2x6's up there. Love the videos, Keep up the good work!!!
Everyone complaining about the fisheye. It's not a fisheye. It's just a wide angle lense. Any wide angle lens will show bowing, that's how the lens is able to fit the entire scene into one frame. If he didn't use it, you wouldn't be able to see everything he is doing. Loved the video! Can tell you're a great guy! Your mom must be very proud of you!
Perlin braces got installed the day after we installed the beam, remember, you want those perlin braces to be on something that can take the weight! In this case, the double LVL we installed.. If you have any questions, feel free to drop them under this comment.. I'd love to help you out! My audio on my GoPro got screwed up on the later half of the video - I bought new aluminium housings, and apparently it blocked the Microphone.. "Bear" with me! ;) Hope you all enjoy, super simple process, most don't understand it though..
@@edwhite101 I had one of those for a while, it broke and was not fixable, forgot what it was called. Hitachi makes a very nice hanger nailer now, it's a beast.
And the electric chainsaw is a great idea. Going to add one of those to my tool box. Much easier than a reciprocating saw when you are not working around nails
Thank you so much for this video! Incredibly informative, and made me ready to get going on removing a well between our kitchen and family room. Really appreciate the step-by-step instructions!
Try doing it with on a load bearing wall with an electrical sub panel smack dab in the middle! I just renovated my condo and had the joy of that experience.
Experience is amazing. Especially because I don’t know how the heck you would know that a couple of 2x4s are enough to provide the necessary modulus of elasticity and buckling resistance to do the work.
normally load bearing walls continue from one side to the next? It stopped at the kitchen? Is there a wall that was removed in the past and would you worry about future problems?
I have to replace a garage door header so this video is very helpful in building a support wall to hold the weight so I can remove the old and replace with new. Have a lot of termite damage to deal with.
Hey, good video! Should you not have PL glued and screwed the LVL beams before hanging joists on either side? For a more solid assembly that will resist pull-apart?
Good job on the video. Thorough. I'm trying to take out my own wall and even just from your video and watching how that roof pitch was and how the beams ran I realized i may have no problems at all taking out my wall
Yes its easy..my wife and i did it ourselfs.. We ony had a 6 ft.opening .living room to kit...now we got a 14 ft.opening..it cost me at home depot..40 buck in wood 2 . 2x11.s..its simple..ty for the video..save some money if your handy..i saved a few thou..
Hey brother much love from San Diego, Ca. Appreciate the time you take to create the content on your channel. If you wouldn't mind, could you mention some tips/commentary on how to safely work with a circular saw and the power tools in general as you're using them? Thanks Matt!
The biggest thing people forget about is that load bearing wall one supported the load over the whole wall now you wave two big load points. Always remember to beef up what's under the wall as well
I was just talking to someone about that! Subfloors crack, dip down, etc. Most definitely have to do something about the two load points you've created in the floor.
@@MattBangsWood All you need below the two load points are lally columns in the basement. Sometimes you are lucky and there could be one close so all you have to do is block to it. If the load near the fridge side has no lally all you need to add is a lally with a 28"x14" footing under the new lally. I have been doing architectural drawings for about 9 years now and see these scenarios every week!
Great work...I'm planning to do the same but 6m span therefore going steel beam. Question: re bracing/purlins in roof...is that needed only when beam is not exposed as in video attached to joists with hangers? And bracing not required if beam is exposed under ceiling? Thanks heaps from New Zealand
Been doing this for years, I am actually insured to remove structural and replace it, given I have years of experience running shoring and forming crews on High Rise Poured in Place construction. I dunno if I would be suggesting this be done as a DIY given what "could" happen if done wrong but hey not my video so. I'll just put it this way, even with my experienced crews I am present (me the owner of the company now) in person to supervise on every job that involves this type of work.
@@MattBangsWood Ok well that is awesome, I can speak as a Construction business owner since I am one that we need a ton more young folks in the trades.
Great work gentlemen. I am trying to do exactly the same thing and my kitchen looks exactly the same as yours. I wish you guys were my neighbors lol. I have to make sure I am doing everything right. I'll be doing it all alone. I would appreciate any additional tips.
Great video guys! Hoomeowners should consult a structural engineer before doing this. They didn't explain that the ceiling load was distributed throughout the 2x4s of the original wall and onto the floor joists. When you install the beam on top of two 4x4 posts, the load is now distributed to those two 4x4 posts and they need to be placed onto the floor in a location that can support the extra load; the placement is not random.
unless it's a slab
@@dustdistrict9296 can you elaborate, please? For learning purposes
@@sleepmachine7522 If there is a basement you need to ensure that wherever those two 4x4's are bearing down on the floor joist below it's capable of supporting the load. When he says "unless it's a slab" he means unless the floor is a concrete slab with no floor below. If there is only a concrete slab foundation below then it would be more than capable of holding the focused weight.
@@JustinMelville 🎯
@@JustinMelville yes
As an Architectural Designer your videos give us a look into a GC's world. Thank you, stellar work!!
Love these videos. Now I can firmly place “removing a load bearing wall” into my “I’m definitely not DIY-ing this” bucket.
Literally thought the same thing 😆
Same 🤣 I am absolutely not ready to DIY that
Girl, do it. You’re more than capable
I agree 100%. You will never catch me doing this. But, I would enjoy helping these guys pull this off.
Really, this is more difficult than it absolutely has to be. The homeowner must have wanted the beam set into the ceiling such that it didn't protrude into the living space at all. That difference made this much more involved than it might have been otherwise.
Those group of people that are silly and soft in the head thinking wood was bending because a fish eye lens was used , should not take on home improvement projects and attempt to use dangerous power tools .
Thank you for a great Video. . Job well done.
I thought it was helpful if remodeling a pumpkin
Looks great!! ... but I'm sure shortly after installation ...the homeowner wished he'd have had you run the LVL beam all the way to the outside wall...You could have removed that doorway as well...would have been totally open...
I thought the same
Or at least just make a trimmed out column there instead of a short wall.
Just a built in excuse if his shit ain't straight... man that's the lens
AWESOME to see YOUNG guys interested in working with their hands these days! Seems like most younger guys are interested in sitting at a computer terminal instead of BUILDING/MAKING something. Keep up the Banging Matt!!!
There will always be blue collar men that like wrenching or building things that aren't afraid to get dirty. The problem is modern liberals have made it (or coined the term) "toxic masculinity" to be a man and act like a man and they own all the media from TV, to tech to most major publication companies and even our schools and colleges so all we hear about is the attempt to indoctrination with praising the soy drinking in touch with their feminist side beta males getting all the attention these days, not real men that know right from wrong and aren't afraid of hard work.
We all need to be vocal too and make it clear that the blue collar men are what make society work and they are the real hero's in the western world or this cuck trend will only get worse...
@@AtomicReverend Could you provide some example of soy drink and being in touch with feminist side that modern liberals commonly voice out?
I guess you could say I'm a modern liberal in CA, but I wrench on my own car and get my hands dirty when possible. I work a tech job and occasionally style my hair that is commonly stereotyped as well. I appreciate the effort blue collar workers do. Yet despite all this, I don't really understand what makes us a problem? I don't view blue collar men any less than white collar men. In big cities where cost of living is higher, it just makes sense financially to choose a white collar job over a blue collar job in the long run. Assuming there is always consistent self-growth, the white collar salary would continue to go up the more you age vs blue collar job where opportunities dwindle due to age and loss in strength. As a "modern liberal", I choose and voice for services to help all (including those that chose blue collar jobs and are outside of their prime) so people in general can live a relatively comfortable life
Amen brother way to many lazy millennials.
@@megaxzero88 man, do any of you ever do research before you comment... I guess I am stereo typing but that is a different subject.
Let's use Starbucks as they are as far as I know the biggest coffee house on the planet and definitely stereotyped as the liberal met up place.
How about the caffe latté?
Or the caffe mocha?
How about Caramel Macchiatos?
Or the Chestnut Praline Latte?
Do I need to go on?
It is a fact that soy produces synthetic estrogen and if consumed in large amounts it can actually affect a male's testosterone levels.
As for White Collar jobs paying more than blue collar jobs that is a normal myth that we have all heard for 30 or 40 years that doesn't stand up under scrutiny, look up the pay a journeyman electrician makes or a journeyman ironworker or a Automotive assembly plant worker, look lookup an ase-certified master technician that's the mechanic that works on your car at a dealership or most professional shops, how about a journeyman (or certified) plumber or a journeyman (or certified) contractor... All of these jobs have crazy high pays once you are seasoned with a great skill set. Agian you start off at the bottom just like you do with any job or career and you work your way up. As an example an entry-level framer in Southern California makes about $20 an hour which isn't bad pay for a starting wage that requires no schooling, if he sticks with the job and becomes a master Carpenter over about 5 to 10 years time he will make up words of 45 to 55 bucks an hour... Great pay and he is the one you have to thank when you can close your door at night.
I am not talking bad on White Collar jobs, but for literally 40 years every youth has been told that they have to go to college to get a good job they end up in 50 to $100,000 worth of debt right out the gate for a job market that is generally flooded with accountants and liberal arts people (and the other jobs that 40+ years ago paid well), even cyber-security is starting to get flooded because of the amount of college graduates entering the emerging field... I am not saying the pay isn't good in any of those jobs because I'm sure there are plenty of examples of it paying well but my point still remains the blue collar worker is the unsung hero of society he is the one that gives you a roof he is the one that makes your bodily waste go away, he is the one that makes your car run, he or she is the one that sells you your food, that grows your food, that trucks your food and almost all of those jobs actually require more then labor but literally the years of hands-on experience... an automotive mechanic takes two years just to become an entry-level to become an ase-certified master technician generally it is a five to eight year process. All your journeyman Union jobs take about 5 years of going to school every other weekend...
Also blue collar men generally get plenty of exercise and don't need a gym membership and even as we age those who are physically active are generally healthier but there is a lot of variables to that statement but you think once party will actually give out is a bunch of crap also. I have been in the construction field for going on 20 years and I have a good diet and a killer physique for my age group and I would never step foot into a gym but again I degress.
@@AtomicReverend First off, I'm going to keep this brief because there is no point in discussing this any further. Anything I say that doesn't fall in line with your mindset is immediately taken as offense to you.
1) Not sure why you need to say I haven't done any research? I worked on cars and received two ASE certificates before admitting this is not something long term for me. I know there is money in blue collar labor
2) All those drinks you listed are milk based. Soy is just an alternative and personally, most soy drinkers I know are female.
3) I'm glad you have a great physique, but that's not what I see here in LA with most blue collar jobs. No matter what physical labor takes a toll on the back, knee, joints.
You could also use 2 or 3 studs(commonly known as a stud pack)if you have extra instead of a post, also you could use a sawzall and cut through the nails at the bottom and top of the studs in the old wall removing the whole stud with less dust and clean up than cutting them in the middle, you could also use the sawzall to cut on each side of the top plate of the old wall using the edge of the plate as a guide removing the plate while also cutting the space for the beam without having to pop lines
This guy gets it
And, if done properly, reuse the studs for the post as you mentioned. Just be sure you know and follow the nailing schedule to assemble it, or better follow it using screws that reach all three studs.
Fish eye lens was an odd choice for documenting a project involving so many straight horizontal lines.
I had to really look at it because I though the house was bending
I was just about to post something about that. I keep thinking it's going to collapse on him.
For a moment I was wondering if I was seeing things 😂
Haha I was like THOSE SHORE SUPPORT BEAMS ARE BENDING HARD
wide angle.. not fisheye.. fisheye would be WAY worse..
Excellent step by step tutorial. No nonsense talk and straight to the build.
luv the facts that you tell how much it would cost to have it remove
I can’t find where he mention princing
@@toldf in the thumbnail
Yeah the part he doesn't talk about is people watch this thinking they can do it then people like me get paid to fix everything costing twice as much if not more.... pay a insured professional
Well done Matt. Your videography and articulate explanations make this an informative and enjoyable video to watch. Thank you.
This is literally the most helpful video on this topic I’ve seen so far! Now I just need strong men to come do labor for me! I’m intimidated to do it alone 😬 but this video did help me understand the process a lot better!
I agree.
Did you do it? Give some feedback
Not that I don’t like the regular “From the Ground Up” series, but could you do more of these instructional videos. They’re really helpful.
I don't do a whole lot of residential remodeling, but yes, I'll try to do more of this style of video!
I like this concept... the music too! I understand a few steps were missed for this video to be a fully instructional. Would be nice if you would just mention the missed steps somewhere in the video so as to keep your audiences informed of them. Each job is different and I really liked this residential reno project you showed... framing videos ressemble each other after a while, especially when plans are not shown. This video is very much in tune with what I do (extension, additions, strengthening, full and partial reconstructions, etc.) and I am sure many of your viewers enjoyed this work detour of yours.
Good video
I appreciate your experience on this, and I thought I could remove a load bearing wall before until now. Very thorough!
Someone else mentioned it to, but this is literally the layout of my house (kitchen, living room, dining area, hallway) and I am looking in the future to remove the same section of wall as well. While I probably won't be able to do it myself and will hire in, this really gives me an insane level of insight on how my house constructed!! Very cool!
Yeah I'm probably not doing this myself either - would love to but looking at the tooling and work involved - I'll leave the load bearing work to the experts
I also have this exact same home and plan on removing this wall!
@@nocalfnarwhal8858 I ended up having a kitchen remodel company come in. Due to the small size of the kitchen, it was easier for someone with more experience to assist with the layout and build out. We ended up cutting a large window from the corner of the kitchen to the hallway entrance, added a 2x10 header for load bearing and expanded the counter out into the living room area, but only by a foot or so. Worked out really well and has hugely expanded the space!
I’m a spark by trade, but absolutely love the framing videos ! Can’t get enough! Another great video
Appreciate you Zack! Dead honest, I always wanted to be a sparky. Due to my schooling, families history in the trades, I ended up going chippy..
Nice of you teaching your helper not alot of people do ..good job
Not being in construction, your video is very impressive. I have a load bearing wall in my master bath. want to remodel so now I have a beginners understanding of how to! Thanks!!
from a person at 76 who has copd you need to wear a mask working in those spaces. I have worked the trades for 60 yrs
did you also smoke ever?
People who have asbestosis, a lung disease caused by asbestos, may develop COPD as a complication
worn out asbestos can be a hit or miss, my stepfather and a few of my relatives worked at asbestos plants and never wore masks and they are in their 80s still kicking. Sure it might cause harm to certain people and those that are constantly sucking it in but it has been blown out of proportion because it becomes a multi billion dollar industry when it comes to remediation and permits
Yeah you can see all the debris when the sun is at the right angle.
This guy is young. What happens to most guys in this trade as they get to late 40s and 50s? Dont their lower backs go to crap?
Nice job bro I like your channel I’m a real estate investor people can learn a lot from your channel keep up the good work
I am a first year carpenter in melbourne this video is inspire me
So im rebuilding a travel trailer and today i framed a wall and i used techniques you show and ive never been more excited with the out come of my work, please keep the videos coming love learning and seeing you build America lol
I’m super stoked to hear it went well! Funny you mention this.. We’re going to be doing a “Building a Tiny House in a Day” video soon.. Where we take a decked trailer, and attempt to frame, side, roof, paint, set windows and doors, and be ready for electrical and plumbing inside.. ALL in 8 hours! It should be fun!
@@MattBangsWood awesome dude cant wait to see!
Older video but I now understand how this is going to work when I have this done.
I am wanting to turn my 2 car garage, with 2 roll up doors, into 1 roll up door.
This will have to be done.
Thanks !! 👍
Chainsaw a framers favorite tool. Didn't expect that. Very Cool. Makes fast work of it.
I love my little EGO Chainsaw!
The LVL fit like a glove. Nice work! I like the way you break it down. Good vibes, great attitude 🤙🏽
Great HOW TO video! I learned a lot, great graphics and explanation! John 😎🤘
Removal of a load bearing wall video helped me understand the process. Thanks Jennifer, Decatur GA USA
Love the ending when you show manpower and manhours
Great topic. Great know-how. Great tone. Great explaining. Great gackground music. The fisheye lens spoils everything.
This is exactly the video I was looking for. I needed to know this was possible when developing residential homes! Thanks!
Careful on what houses you choose to do this with as it didn’t have much weight above it at all. I’m just probably sharing with you what you already know.
This is a ranch I believe and everyday fewer and fewer houses have nothing above the main floor.
Again you probably know this I’m just sharing in for support of what you do. Joke intended aka support
Great Breakdown, on how to tackle a load bearing wall, removal, thanks for putting video together!
Matt,
I realize that videos are limited in showing all that is done, but I do have a question: Did you glue and screw the LVL’s to each other once you raised them? Keep up the instructional component in your videos; you have excellent knack for teaching.
Hello Roy. Great question because following the proper nailing pattern on a LVL beam is crucial for proper load transfer through the beam. Nails or screws in an LVL is sufficient with the load they are carrying in this video but you should NEVER glue LVL together as this will actually keep the plys from acting as one solid beam. The glue can not bond the wood fibers together like in conventional lumber due to the water resistant coating the is applied to the LVL surface at the factory.
Thanks for info. 👍🏼👍🏼
Hi Matt. My husband and I are about to remove our kitchen/dining area wall as part of our Kitchen remodel/expansion. We have an identical situation as in the above video, where we have ceiling joists running perpendicular to the double top plate over the existing wall. We have been told that we may need to add a 2x2x2 footing under the stud pack on either end of the new 12'-14' beam that will replace the wall to make an open concept kitchen. Our house is 1 story, and the area where the beam is replacing the wall doesn't have any other structure sitting on top of the wall. Just the joists of an 8 foot wide kitchen ceiling and its drywall. So the proposed solution is identical to your video. What we don't understand is that we haven't seen any other videos like this where they have added a pier/expanded foundation under the stud pack, or fortified the outside wall where the other stud pack is going. Why would we ever need to expand the footing on either side for such a little wall removal job??
This background music gives me a real good mood!!
Great vid. Got yourself a new subscriber. One critical assessment I had is that you never talked about what was below the columns you put in. If that was a wall supporting only ceiling load the floor joists might have been able to support that out to wherever the footings are. With the install of the purlins at the mid span of the roof, combined with supports bringing now new load down to that wall line is a lot of new load. Even if just the ceiling joists are loading that new beam, that’s a questionable distributed load that is now two point loads, down to something you never mentioned. Loved the video. Its great to see the thought process and execution of a skilled framer.
Nice! So much more straight forward in the US. In Europe we have te get a big ass metal I-beam, and a whole lot of brick removal. Takes up to two days with 3 people.
6 Hours with a laborer and myself.. I'd say we did good! I've heard things get complicated over there.. That's no fun!!
Good job Mat you made it look easy just for a customer is looking for
Looks great. Might be good to mention something about potential footers needed.
4x4 post definitely need to be supported to ground with pier/footer. No mention in video.
@@billbrickhouse5975 This is why i was looking through the comments. Do the posts he put in have to loaded onto posts directly below?
That's what I was thinking, where's the part of the video showing load transfer all the way down to foundation or footer? even is there's a beam below where are the squash blocks ?
@@fab2832 it was a load bearing wall, it supposed to be a girder underneath...
Since it is load bearing there should already be a footer underneath from the original build.
This was excellent. I'm doing this this weekend but with an exposed beam so I don't have to cut any joists. Nice to see it's not crazy difficult.
Were you able to do it on your own with the exposed beam?
Great Video. One question though: What do these 4x4 posts sit on? You need to make sure the loads from these posts can be safely transferred down to the foundations.
They should be sitting on 2x4 bottom plate that bolted on the ground
Id bet the house doesn't have a basement, and the length of houses with no basement have cinderblocks spanning from side to side
To clarify some questions about comments referring to transferring loads to the floor joists:
The key to load bearing beams is that the load is transferred to the GROUND. Engineers calculate the load capacity to determine if the new load points (the 4x4s he installed to rest the new LVL beam on) can be transferred to the floor joists, or if they need to transfer directly to the foundation, or the ground below.
It's important to remember that the posts holding up the floor transfer the load of the floor to the foundation, or the packed ground below the foundation. Steel or iron or reinforced concrete columns are what typically hold up the floor joists in between the foundation walls. If this altered load displacement to the new beam was deemed too heavy, the engineer would require them to go below the house and install new columns mounted to a poured concrete base - nowadays, the columns are usually steel if installed in a basement, or wood if installed just below the floor. My guess is since a 4x4 above the floor is enough to transfer the load down, a 4x4 below the floor would likely be enough to pick it up and transfer it to the ground) - mounted to a poured concrete base. Usually, you would dig a hole in the ground a minimum depth - typically 3-4 feet deep, with a minimum width or diameter - with a column bracket mounted into the center of the top of the concrete base before it dries. Then mount the steel column in the bracket and secure it to the floor joists, directly in line with the 4x4s above that support the weight of the beam.
If you do this correctly, the load never really touches the floor at all, the weight load is transferred directly into the ground by way of the new columns below the 4x4s.
If you DON'T need to build new load bases, then the engineer determined that the weight of the load the beam is supporting is low enough for the floor joists below the 4x4s to transfer the weight to the nearest floor supports, and then into the ground from there. But even when this is the case, they want the 4x4s to be placed directly ON a floor joist, not in between them, to ensure the JOISTS transfer the load to the ground supports, not the sub-floor above them, that's how your sub-floor eventually breaks apart and cracks your nice tile or hardwood floors.
My guess is that the location of the 4x4s - at the end of the previous load-bearing wall and at the end of the wall that makes the entrance into the kitchen from the hallway - are in spots that were already located on top of floor joists. So as long as the beam didn't breach a maximum length (i.e. didn't pick up the load of more than "X" number of roof trusses/ceiling joists hangered to the new beam), they didn't have to install new supports down below the 4x4s under the floor.
But when you remove a load bearing wall and replace it with a spanning beam, ALWAYS get a structural engineer to calculate the load first and give you the minimum specs to meet code - NEVER make these assumptions yourself. These specs WILL include any newly required supports necessary below the floor. And yes, permits are absolutely required to alter structure, EVEN if the homeowner does the work themselves.
Looks like these guys did a nice job, even accounting for the weight of the rafters, relocating the support braces temporarily to prevent sagging, and then installing new braces from the purlins to the beam to properly transfer the rafter load to the 4x4s. They accounted for everything. Which is why I'm guessing they had the load calculations approved, to know they didn't have to add any structural support below the 4x4s. We don't know for sure, because he never mentions it, but it's a safe guess. Nice work.
Fantastic stuff, love how thorough you are throughout the whole process
Yeah for real! He did an awesome job explaining exactly what was needing while keeping everything to the point.
Im a impressed....excellent workmanship and great teacher.....You have an excellent future. GOD SPEED!
Dude you got me thinking I need a cordless chainsaw now 🤔
Awesome video btw 👌🏽
It’s the bees knees.
WorldsWorst Fifaplayr theres some really nice ones out now buy chainsaw company’s lots of comparison videos Electric to gas here on RUclips. Cheers
Awesome videos. I do framing in Southern Arizona. I watch often just to brush up on new tricks, techniques, etc.. keep em coming!! Thank you
Where in Southern Arizona? I'm on the south west side of Tucson, have a 1950's Adobe home and wanting to remove a wall.
I am interested in seeing how the purlins and lvl beam looked at completion. I did not see where they were attached to complete the support. Excellent work and video, closing on a 1960 home and am looking to open the kitchen interior wall to the dining and living rooms for entertaining purposes and install an island. 24' Span single story. Definitely excited. Thanks!!!!!
Not sure the length they did on this one, but it was 14" beam. What size beam will you be using on that 24' span?
@@afternaphair putting this on the maybe sometime lol currently looking at some other Reno projects starting with inground pool. Cheers
Thanks again for the answer to my question. I should have just kept on watching and listening.
Great video !! Very easy to follow, your a good teacher, keep the videos coming brother!!
Good job Matt🤗
I’ve got a 1954 California Ranch style house here in Orange County, Ca. This model has a 16’ span that runs directly under the Ridge of the roof. The original builder installed a 6’wide x5’ tall privacy pony wall under and to the side of the 16’ long beam. At the end of the pony wall “Was” a 4x4 post. Meaning the unsupported span “Was” 10-11 feet.
Everybody is this neighborhood took it out for aesthetic reasons. 30 years later everybody has saggy ceiling (1/2”- 3/4”) and huge crack running the entire 16 foot span. I’m so tempted to just jack it up and build another pony wall with support. The original beam is a 4x12 that I should sister some LVLs to.
Guess those old timers knew what they were doing with that pony wall / support.
Anyways.... good video, you are a talented teacher/video editor. I will hit subscribe and like👍🏼
Great job! Only thing I would add is info on the footers. Most of the time they need to be modified or redone for the new load bearing posts.
I wasn't really sure who I was going to be targeting with this video, and I had to make sure it was done fairly quick, so I skipped over a few things I wish I could have added.. Got the basics! This build in particular is a subfloor.. So 4x6" blocking underneath is necessary! :)
@@MattBangsWood Great video! The 2 things I would of added: 1 What Dad Said above and 2 would be a reference to beam sizing, so people don't go sticking 2x4's or 2x6's up there. Love the videos, Keep up the good work!!!
Ahhh, what does dad know anyway?! Good stuff guys, appreciate your work & enjoy the channel.
Nice, never thought about hiding the beam like that that’s slick
No matter what , when the props come down there’s always that thought “oh did it drop a bit” haha good job bro , nothing better then opening up rooms🤙
MOST DEFINITELY! We had 1 joist come down about 3/8", which is the one I put a leg under to nail and hanger. :) Always a bit heart stopping!
Wilkinson Carpentry this made me laugh way more than it should’ve 😂😂😂
Nah couldn't disagree more, glad the "open concept" fad is dying out
Big fan of all the great videos and enjoy how professional you are ... all the best to you. Thanks for all the hard work and education
You made it look so easy excellent job
It’s a fairly straight forward process, just a bit time consuming! Thanks for watchin’ Pat!
@@MattBangsWood I am hopefully moving soon and have a load of work on in the new place 1936 UK House.
Everyone complaining about the fisheye. It's not a fisheye. It's just a wide angle lense. Any wide angle lens will show bowing, that's how the lens is able to fit the entire scene into one frame. If he didn't use it, you wouldn't be able to see everything he is doing. Loved the video! Can tell you're a great guy! Your mom must be very proud of you!
Perlin braces got installed the day after we installed the beam, remember, you want those perlin braces to be on something that can take the weight! In this case, the double LVL we installed..
If you have any questions, feel free to drop them under this comment.. I'd love to help you out!
My audio on my GoPro got screwed up on the later half of the video - I bought new aluminium housings, and apparently it blocked the Microphone.. "Bear" with me! ;)
Hope you all enjoy, super simple process, most don't understand it though..
purlin*
I spelled it right in the video, wrong in the comments. 😂 Damn it!
Hey awesome vids! What particular nail gun are you using to nail the LUS24's? Thanks!
Did a structural engineer determine the beam size or give any guidance on this?
@@edwhite101 I had one of those for a while, it broke and was not fixable, forgot what it was called.
Hitachi makes a very nice hanger nailer now, it's a beast.
Pretty nice work.( nice and clean. Very proffessional.)
Hi Matt. Screwing the 2x4 is the only way to do it. Enjoy the day. Ray L
Hey Ray! It makes it so much nicer to take down. We used this material today too, without having to pull nails! :)
Hey Matt...you seem skilled in cutting and looks good. I question standing your 4x4 on the floor rather than going thru to the beam below.
And the electric chainsaw is a great idea. Going to add one of those to my tool box. Much easier than a reciprocating saw when you are not working around nails
Thank you so much for this video! Incredibly informative, and made me ready to get going on removing a well between our kitchen and family room. Really appreciate the step-by-step instructions!
Very important that each end of the beam are not only supported by a post, but also the posts are supported into a foundation below....
Hello
Try doing it with on a load bearing wall with an electrical sub panel smack dab in the middle! I just renovated my condo and had the joy of that experience.
I'll pass! LOL.. That'll rack the price up, that's for sure!
How do you get the wood to curve so nice? Looks like rubber 2x4s. (Just kidding on the fisheye lens)
Thanks for this video, my house is designed exactly the same way with collar ties in the attic. This is helpful.
Experience is amazing.
Especially because I don’t know how the heck you would know that a couple of 2x4s are enough to provide the necessary modulus of elasticity and buckling resistance to do the work.
normally load bearing walls continue from one side to the next? It stopped at the kitchen? Is there a wall that was removed in the past and would you worry about future problems?
awesome video bro. tons of information as well as entertainment. thanks for making this.
I have to replace a garage door header so this video is very helpful in building a support wall to hold the weight so I can remove the old and replace with new. Have a lot of termite damage to deal with.
Thanks for the video! It's one of the best I've seen so far on YT. Did you end up finishing this project? I'm curious to see the end result.
Thanks! I’m gonna try myself and use your video as my step by step guide. Wish me luck!
Hey, good video! Should you not have PL glued and screwed the LVL beams before hanging joists on either side? For a more solid assembly that will resist pull-apart?
true but not neccisary
Good job on the video. Thorough. I'm trying to take out my own wall and even just from your video and watching how that roof pitch was and how the beams ran I realized i may have no problems at all taking out my wall
That was awesome! Did you have to get that engineered or you came up with that yourself?
Yes its easy..my wife and i did it ourselfs.. We ony had a 6 ft.opening .living room to kit...now we got a 14 ft.opening..it cost me at home depot..40 buck in wood 2 . 2x11.s..its simple..ty for the video..save some money if your handy..i saved a few thou..
Hey brother much love from San Diego, Ca. Appreciate the time you take to create the content on your channel. If you wouldn't mind, could you mention some tips/commentary on how to safely work with a circular saw and the power tools in general as you're using them? Thanks Matt!
This got brought up as a video idea recently, as I’m teaching Quintyn the ropes.
I’m on it!
I loved watching this. We are getting ready to open up our wall in our kitchen, so great information! Thanks!
The biggest thing people forget about is that load bearing wall one supported the load over the whole wall now you wave two big load points. Always remember to beef up what's under the wall as well
I was just talking to someone about that! Subfloors crack, dip down, etc. Most definitely have to do something about the two load points you've created in the floor.
@@MattBangsWood All you need below the two load points are lally columns in the basement. Sometimes you are lucky and there could be one close so all you have to do is block to it. If the load near the fridge side has no lally all you need to add is a lally with a 28"x14" footing under the new lally. I have been doing architectural drawings for about 9 years now and see these scenarios every week!
@@alexg6917 👍🏽✏✏
Great video. I am not so scared to remove my wall now. Good job.
Can you please put a link for the screw gun you used for the hanger?! Thank you!!
Great video I have no intention of doing anything like that but it's good to know the why's of how it's done !
I'm sure it's been said but that fish eye lens made the boards look bowed af! Lol
Great work...I'm planning to do the same but 6m span therefore going steel beam. Question: re bracing/purlins in roof...is that needed only when beam is not exposed as in video attached to joists with hangers? And bracing not required if beam is exposed under ceiling? Thanks heaps from New Zealand
Very nice job very informal you did a better job than This Old House
Better than This Old House? How dare you sir.
New school young bucks can’t hold a candle to old school craftsman
liviz40102 “Eyeroll”
Been doing this for years, I am actually insured to remove structural and replace it, given I have years of experience running shoring and forming crews on High Rise Poured in Place construction. I dunno if I would be suggesting this be done as a DIY given what "could" happen if done wrong but hey not my video so. I'll just put it this way, even with my experienced crews I am present (me the owner of the company now) in person to supervise on every job that involves this type of work.
I agree with you 100%. My videos aren’t exactly based towards H/O’s. More or less youth looking to learn a bit!
@@MattBangsWood Ok well that is awesome, I can speak as a Construction business owner since I am one that we need a ton more young folks in the trades.
Yes Whitey yes we get it your a “real” professional
Great work gentlemen. I am trying to do exactly the same thing and my kitchen looks exactly the same as yours. I wish you guys were my neighbors lol. I have to make sure I am doing everything right. I'll be doing it all alone. I would appreciate any additional tips.
Hey I’ve been watching a lot of your videos lately and love them! Keep up the great work! What brand is that green laser you are using?
PLS 6G SYS kit
Excellent video. Exactly the information I needed for my project.
Thanks, amigo! You’ve got a new subscriber!
Good vid dude. Concise no BS. Thank you.
Great one. Thanks man 👌👌👍👍
Thanks for watching Peter!
Good job! very easy to understand. Thank you!
Did you have an engineer measure out the beam or did you know from experience ?
Perfect Video. Very nice and clear explained.
Great vid
Now I'm gonna go buy an abandoned house and try this wish me luck 😂😂😂
Good video. Easy to understand for a novice. Graphis were helpful.
@mattbangswood What is supporting the 4x4 at the ground and what is connecting the LVL to it at the top? Thanks
thanks a lot dear I love wood making things every time