No One Told Me BEFOREHAND. I'm PISSED!!!
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- Опубликовано: 26 сен 2024
- Dealer never told me. If I had known about the issues with this Ariens Ikon, I would've gone a different route.
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Xblades video-
• The Bad and VERY UGLY ...
Blood, Sweat and DUST OH MY!
• Blood, Sweat and DUST?...
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KEYWORDS: ariens, ikon, blades, big south outdoors tv, gravely, zero turn, mower, mow, mowing, lawn, lawn care, grass, lawnmower, lawnmowing, striping, stripes, echo, pro turn, 452, stihl, string, trimming, property, residential, ASMR, weed eating, weedeater, weed eater, cut, cutting, mad, pissed off, ariens, ikon,
Not a landscaper, dont own a zero turn, watched whole video, good consumer info, you seem like a good dude, best of luck with that machine
Thank you for watching and for the kind words. I try as best as I can to present accurate info. Thanks again for the encouraging words.
Great video. I appreciate your honesty and information about these mowers.
Thanks for watching. You won't get anything but honesty on this channel. Ive6got more content coming on this mower. Not Ariens, just this model Ariens, model number 918.
You were interesting to watch. You were very informative and made us want to watch your video all-the-way through. You were humorous at times and also educational. A BIG thank you😊
Thank you so much for that AWESOME response, and THANK you for watching. I do my BEST to be as informative as I can be without being boring. A little humor mixed in breaks up the monotony and makes the information easier to absorb. Again, THANK YOU for watching.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTVkoijiytn
This gentleman has done his homework! Thanks for the video.
Thank you for watching. I'm not perfect, but I do try to be as accurate as possible.
It’s pretty grass, got to love a man that cares about his grass.
We care about ours and our customers...
this video is totally worth it for the idea of the ramp rig you set up to change the blade! Thank you!!
@mr.lambfries3236 Thank you for watching and for those kind words. I've had so many ugly comments telling me how "unsafe" it was. I've been using this method for over 20 years, and I have til yet to have any issues. Glad my content gave you an idea you can use to make your life easier.
I've had a Harbor Freight lawn tractor jack for a decade, was about $90. I recommend that for ease of blade/deck maintenance and for safety.
No disrespect intended but IMO, putting the mower on the tailgate is much safer than using a jack of any kind. Been doing it that way for nearly 24 years and have yet to have a mower fall or roll off. Thanks for watching.
Keep doing it your way, I'll do mine !!!
@@thecuss6817 literally changed my blades using a paint bucket and just laying the front of my 50" timecutter right on a empty 5gal. Lol took a strong back but got it up and changed the blades fine. Using what i got in a hurry to get back to work haha.
Dont recommend using a 5gal bucket to noone though. Be smart and not like me. Next time id use trailer ramps.
I guess I do it the redneck way, I pick it up with the front end loader .
It's a relief to see a guy that ain't worried 'bout get'n a bit dirty. You did an awesome job at teaching. It's obvious you're smart and know your stuff, but you aren't condescending. You're respectful, which is a rare virtue nowadays. 👍🏻
I subbed a couple minutes in...👍🏻
Thank you for doing this for us.
WOW! I'm humbled. Thank you for watching and for those kind words. I am not the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I do my best to have my ducks in a row before filming. Thanks for the sub and WELCOME to the Big South family.
I love you man!!! I operate a Yazoo 61" Master Mower retired from Chicago Park District that is wildly over designed from 1998. Twin cylinder TJD wisconsin engine (yes I had to rebuild it once). The trans is a Rockford that upon rebuild (one time) resulted in clutch plates that wore less than 0.001". I'm a retired engineer & machinist, and that machine is built like a tank. My blades are offset, and are close to 1/2" thick. I sharpen every 2 years. Of course, its only cutting 5 acres per week, but I shave the earth every other week .... cutting at the street. I had to rebuild the deck once ... I had my mower parked outside for years. Upon rebuild, I made it bullet proof. My blades are keyed to the spindle. I think the original designer was a genius. I made it better. It's noisy, so I added another muffler so it looks like a "chopper". Yes, I'm crazy but I need quiet so I can listen to music while I cut. I'm not ready for something new while I operate the oldest lawn mower in my county. I love your channel, keep posting.
Thanks for watching. I appreciate your support.
Propriatary consumables are a deal breaker for me.
Thanks for watching. Me too. That's what the title of this video is what it is.
There are a ton of manufacturers that make that style blade.
Me too. Like the way you got the deck up. Blade bolts looked a little more than hand tight. No antisieze. Country yards that you mow yourself don't need the upward suction blades. Flatter the
better. Suction blades throw up dust in dry weather and, according
to other sources, contribute to dulling the blades.
I use my engine hoist to pick the mower up almost vertical where the blades can be removed standing up while holding a beer with the free hand.
I prefer doing things outside if possible. I'm a firm believer in using what you have, and I don't have an engine hoist. Thanks for watching.
That’s a sweet set up👍🏻
@@sweetdrahthaar7951 thanks for watching and for the awesome comment. It's taken me 24 years, one step at a time to get here.
thats why kubota zds are smart they have build in jack on the front of theres @@BigSouthOutdoorsTV
I just lift mine up by hand and put it on a block of wood. The front-end on these zero turns aren't that heavy. Most of the weight is in the back with the engine.
Great video! I remember mowing my grandparents grass, I don't know how many acres, with their '58 Wheelhorse. All those years and the blades never wore out like that, they were sharpened over and over and over. It of course wasn't a nice zero turn but nothing ever wore out or broke except drive belts. Great content!
Thank you and thanks for watching. I'm a FIRM believer in maintenance, whether it be belts, blades, oil, filters etc...
Unfortunately, things aren't built to last anymore. We now live in a "disposable" society. When something breaks, it's more cost effective to replace it than fix it.
Same with the Sears Suburban’s
@MrCountrycuz thanks for watching and sorry for the delayed response. I'm familiar with sears and at the risk of sounding dumb, I'm not sure about the suburban part. Can you expound on that part?
What you talking g about I don't have a sirburban
Not surprised; I have a Gravely model L with a rotary plow attachment. At nearly 60 years old, it needed a new bearing. Went to my supply house and Gravely, even then, had a size that no one else has. There was still a Gravely dealer here and they were still able to get me a new bearing. Now, that dealer is gone and likely I won't be able to get a replacement.
Thank you for watching. If you lived in NC I could hook you up.
Buy you a pair of digital calipers and measure that bearing, then hop on mcmaser-carr. Gravely isn't big enough to be getting bearings custom made just for them, doubt any mower manufacturer is for that matter.
@@pontiacg445 just go to a bearing house they can get anything. Seals also.
Your cut height changed from the offset blades to the straight blades. I’ve got a Spartan SRT-PRO 54”, & I’ve had the same issues there as well. I’ve done some research & checked thru different blades looking for a cheaper alternative as well. I’d found an aftermarket Kubota replacement blade. But, it had a larger size bolt hole that the Spartan 5/8”. I’m a machinist by trade, so I made a simple hat spacer/bushing for that fix.
As far that fuel tank, in my opinion, your gonna b replacin more of those! The neck sticks out to far, & will snag on plenty of bushes & limbs.
I do understand buyin a mower on a right now basis! Ya nvr know what you’ve bought, ‘til ya use it for a bit? Best of luck to ya!!
It did affect the cut height. I just set the deck, measured the blade height and set the deck height adjustment where the blades would be at the appropriate cutting height. Ie...in order to cut at 2.75 inches, I have to set the height at 3.25.
I custom fit blades as well... bigger hole, hat spacer whatever. All I care about is they are the right length. :)
@dudleycornman1624 the threaded end of the spindle shaft is not long enough to put a spacer on. It would take up to much of the threads and not allow the nut to tighten properly.
I saw that to
On the blade length, I’ve actually cross-referenced different blade length to close the blade gap. Where the ends of the blades get worn down, or wet grass may leave a missed streak as u turn. I had a 72” Bad Boy that I used 2 different length of blades on, to fix its problem. The factory blade length is 24”, I used a 24-13/32” blade on the outers & a 24” blade in the center. Or, I could use the 24” blades on the outer & the 24-13/32” blade n the center, either way? But that 13/32” (.406”) closed up the gap up to fix my streaking problem.
My repair guy gets mostly Oregon blades. I tend to run mulching blades even though I discharge the clippings. They seem dinner and never a clump. I have wanted to try Kavili blades, they just aren't readily available.Thanks for the video.
Oregon blades have always been great for me, but I was unaware that they're not avail for this particular mower, and no one told me that beforehand.
@BigSouthOutdoorsTV Maybe you could just put a spacer..... And just run a normal straight blade... Or run it with no spacer and just adjust the height of your deck a little differently... Probably only like a half an inch difference I would think
These spindles don't have bolts, they have threaded studs much like a craftsman less the star to hold the blade. With the blade installed, there is just enough thread to tighten the nut with full threads. Yet, another design disaster.
I enjoyed your video, May you be blessed with work to do.
Thanks for watching and thanks for the blessing. May the Lord bless you and keep you.
To put that label on product, "Made in America from Globally Sourced Parts". means a small %age of parts based upon value came from almost any country - China, Japan, Vietnam, Taiwan, Mexico, Canada, etc. In California, the %age is 5% unless the parts are not available in the USA, then it's 10%. But given that, the label is a lot better than "Made in China". Even well known American brands (Ford, Chevy, etc) are assembled in foreign countries. Jobs gone.
Thanks for watching. Listen to what I said. I never said every single, solitary part on the machine was produced in America. "Made" can mean many different things. In this case, it means "ASSEMBLED". It's not shipped in from overseas. It's assembled in the plant in Brillion WI.
I use an old engine hoist to pick up the mower. I just pick the front end up and I use my Milwaukie m18 1/2" drive impact to bust them blades off.
Thanks for watching. I do everything "outdoors". There is nowhere to use an engine hoist. I'm considering a ridgid high torque 1/2" impact. They have RAVE REVIEWS.
I would build a tank neck guard to mount in front of the cap, a tapered aluminum cone if that makes sense. Great mower other than those two things I think.
Great suggestion but with the plastic that surrounds the neck I know know of that would work without a ton of modifications.
My thought as well...
@BigSouthOutdoorsTV You can use PVC pipe. It's easy to bend when heated and add some "ramps" to the front and back so stuff will ride over it instead of hooking it. Or you could just watch where you're going. Haha! You probably don't remember because you were trying to duck your head out of the away when it happened.
Gas tank issues probably caused by someone else driving
Good video! The Arion is residential mower. Looking at the thickness of the metal is a good sign. The sound of the transmission from the Gravely to the Arion is alot different . Gravely is much stronger mower. Any how great video, good insight and content.
Thanks for watching. I had a craftsman z6400. The only thing lighter built on it was the stamped deck. The craftsman had many of the same components as the Ariens with 2 exceptions. The craftsmahad 2 blades and the ariens has 3 blades. They market the Ariens as a "heavy duty" residential mower. My craftsman z6400 weight more than the ariens.
Thanks for the valuable information. Watching from the Navajo Nation USA.
You're welcome. I'm glad you found it helpful. Please consider subscribing if you haven't already. If you already have, welcome to the Big South family.
They are for my Zoom 50, same shape, from new was getting aftermarket blades on Ebay, buying in 3- 6 sets at a time. My yard is 1.5 acres, do it in 1.5hrs, but 2-3 cuts is all I gat before resharpening the blades or new replacements. My Zoom takes that same blade and they are reasonably priced on Ebay. US made also. The biggest issue I have is the lack of good soil here where I live in Michigan, it is all sand. So the blades get sand blasted each and every cutting at 3.5inches. The Zoom series is so-call residential, but the next one up is 60in and for the money I could spend a little more time on the air ride seat that I put on it. The mower is now 8 years old and still operates like new
Thank you for watching. Do you have any problems with debris blowing out the front of the deck and plumming from out the front of the deck? My ariens would cover us in debris. I told the dealer I'm dealing with now and they called Ariensco on my behalf and they sent a baffle set at no cost to me. It completely eliminated that issue. Over time, I've done everything that should've been done at the design and engineering table from the get go. Am I happy with it? NO. Not because it doesn't cut good, but because it is a daily maintenance grind to keep it work ready.
They had those offset blades in the 60s. One benefit for longer blades is that the offset can get you an additional 1/2 horsepower or so in heavy thatch such as st augustine where the non cutting edge isn't rubbing on the thatch.
Thanks for watching....
More profit with cheaper light weight blades and they think everyone will be forced to by them for 10 years
BINGO!
How do you know that the spindles can handle the heavier blades?
Thanks for watching. I got the part number from the parts manual that came with the machine and checked the load capacity of each spindle before I installed the blades. With all due respect, I've been doing this for 25 years. I know what I'm doing. The video was long enough, I didn't think it was necessary to include that too.
It's all some pompass jerk in the comment trying to be smarter than an experienced veteran (jerk go play your video games & continue taking your equipment to the shop like you always do
Thank you
@robertbradford3810 You're welcome, and thanks for watching.
I’m currently using a bad boy mower with carbide tungsten blades. 4 hours cutting per week. I only sharpen 2 per year. Don’t need more.
Thanks for watching. We cut nore than 4 hours in a day. Doing commercial lawn care, carbide tungsten blades are not cost effective.
My good sir, I think your issues stem from the area of the USA you are working in, the design of the deck and blades and possibly the type of steel used in the blade itself. I can see that you are in a very sandy area and because of the high lift/vacuum created by the deck and foils (The bent up position of the blade wearing away behind the cutting edge), every time you use the mower it is sandblasting the underside of the deck and the ends of the blades in question. The reason it stripes so well for you is the vacuum/lift of the grass and the pulling effect it has on the grass itself in the direction of travel.
It may be possible to change the amount of lift created by adjustable flaps located on the side of the deck? Scag mowers and Exmarks have them. Pro mowers have two ways to create the stripes they make. Either a pulling force with vacuum or a roller the same width behind the deck. The direction the grass is leaning creates that pretty visual effect of each cut. Lifting and pulling is easier and cheaper than rollers.
Gravity and centrifugal force along with how the air is flowing underneath your deck is the reason why those grooves are being cut into the end of your blades. The lift picks up the sand, the spinning blades push it to the ends. It then simply stays there because it has a different density and size. The grass cuttings are wide and long compared to the grains of sand so they are much easier to force across and out of the chute because of surface area.
I guess what I am saying is that each time you cut the grass you are sand blasting the blades. You may not have noticed it yet? but the same thing is happening to your deck and over time thin spots are going to develop on it. We have 4 Scags and two Exmarks that stripe really well and I'd be willing to bet that if you talk to others in your area using those brands, it may be an issue with their blades too? I'm in the NorthEast USA and have never cut Southern grass so I am guessing but...........
Another guess is that out of the 3 blades, the one located on the deck on the far opposite of the chute is the worst, the one in the middle is worn a little less and the one right aside of the exit chute is hardly worn at all? Your other or older mowers didn't have as much of an issue, but they also didn't cut as nice as the mower in question. Good luck and I hope you figure it out?
Thanks for watching. If you lived my area and did the jobs we do, you would've realized you were wrong from the get-go. Most, if not all the properties we cut are moist, loamy soils. I've been doing this for 25 years, I KNOW ALL ABOUT sandblasting. That IS NOT the case here. The factory blades, as stated in this video, lasted 18/19 hours before they're completely useless, even for mulching. The Oregon blades I put on this machine lasted, give or take, 60 hours. I had the metal in the factory blades tested by a metallurgist, and his findings were no surprise. There is virtually ZERO carbon in those blades, making them extremely soft. THAT is why they wore out so quickly, not because of sand. As for the 3 blades, the discharge blade is ALWAYS going to wear faster than either of the other two, then the middle and the one on the opposite side of the discharge chute lasts the longest. Reason why is because the discharge blade captures and discharges all the debris from the other two blades. The one opposite side only cuts and throws its own debris.
All high lift blades degrade much faster in my experience. I only use medium lift for that reason. Nice video!!
Thanks for the tip!
Agreed, the high lift blades width are the same as many standard blades, but because of the lift it doesn't leave much room for a cutting edge that can be sharpened more then once or twice, and high lift blades typically don't have a thick edge on the cutting edge either because of the balance of the blade thus why the edge deteriorates so quickly
@brettraglin8939 thanks for watching. As I've mentioned in many responses, the cutting edge isn't the issue. If you look closely at those blades, the cutting edge is in fairly good shape. The lift edge is what discentegrates. That happens so quickly because the blades aren't hardened. It's a catch 22 situation really. In order to cut once, you need a high lift blade. On the other hand, high lift blades don't last as long as lower lift blades. That's why I chose to go with the flat oregon blades. Although they're flat and I have to compensate with the deck height adjustment to get the proper cutting height, they are hardened and last 3 times longer.
I wish you was my neighbor. Seriously. We need more good people like you. You have made this video and it has nothing to do with me, yet i continued to watch. Just wanted to hang out with ya. If that makes sense. Wish you well brother. Keep up the good info. God speed!
WOW! What a nice compliment. I would count it an honor to hang out. Are you close to NC?
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTV middle ga
God Bless you Brother.
Well thank you and thank you for watching.
Made in USA, that's one of the reasons I bought a new Gravely last summer, so far so good. I think you are right about the filler neck on the other mower. It sticks out too far and could be very easy to damage. You more than likely hit a tree branch without knowing it. Thanks for the video
Thank you for watching. My dad always said if it ain't broke....and we all know the rest of that statement. Engineers aren't happy until they complicate something. If they had left well enough ALONE, the fill cap would've gotten damaged. On previous year models, it was located on the same side but on TOP of the fender behind the seat. Whatsworse, the dealer I purchased it from told me it was not covered under warranty. The dealer I'm trading with now, told me it most certainly was covered by the warranty. THAT, to me at least is a MUCH BIGGER problem and one if the many reasons I no longer trade with them.
Man look at all that clearance. I'm going to try that. Putting a ramp on the ramp. 👍
Thanks for watching. Been using this method for 24 years. I've always said if it's not broke, don't fix it.
bought an ariens edge 36" er a couple of years ago ... runs really well ... cuts really well ... I have about 3/4 acre inner city ... got the 36" so I could keep it on my enclosed back porch ... 70+ years old
Thanks for watching. I'm glad you're having success with your purchase. Unfortunately, I haven't had the same fortune. This machine, at this moment, is "out of service" for structural repair.
My hustler raptor plastic around my fuel spout busted all to heck so I bought a plastic welder that basically heats up staples so you can fix the cracks back in place and save a lot of money.
Good idea. When I get the time, I'm going to use gas safe apoxy to do my repair. Thanks for watching and for the idea. I'm going to look into that, and I may end up doing that instead.
Unbelievable! Man, you are the truth. Thanks.
Thank you for watching! I appreciate the kind words. If you haven't already, please subscribe. I love to have you as part of the Big South gang.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTV Done.
I almost bought the exact same mower in the spring. The blades thing doesn’t bother me but good to know. The gas fill is a concern though. My toro has plenty of battle scars from over the years and I’m sure I might have a problem with that fill tube. Glad I decided to wait another year.
Thank you for watching. There is a LOT about the Ikon Envy that needs to be redesigned. I was not made aware it was a "new model" until I had made the purchase. That's one of many reasons the thumbnail and title of this video is what it is. If you're still in the market for a new mower, check into the Gravely ZT. It's the extreme lower end of commercial but still fits the bill for residential use.
I use the Gravely 44HD and it uses the same blades as the 48" and needs a 47" opening for gates. The model is 991090 with a 6 gallon tank before they changed to 5 gallons to make it look sleek. Everything is going to looking sleek and the needs of the end user is not being met.
Exactly. I don't give a happy about sleek. Does it cut grass evenly the first time through, is it going to cost me an arm and a leg to operate and maintain and is it built to last. Those are the criteria that matters to the end user.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTV You got a Amen Brother!
Ugly doesn't sell.
Cool looking sells better than performance.
@markchidester6239 I respectfully disagree. To the average home owner that is trying to "keep up with the Joneses", maybe, but for the lawn pros, most all, including yours truly care FAR MORE about cut quality, durability, and LOW operating costs.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTV I agree, all industries are selling concepts and making fools of consumers making and selling half A** products spending millions in research on how to fool us and then advertising to make us think it's what we need. It has become the American way and it's so sad.
I was planning on buying a gravely 48” or 52” mower for our property in Florida.
This was a very good video. You mentioned with using the “better” blade needing to run the mower a bit slower? Could you elaborate on that? Thanks!
@johnforsyth8414 Thanks for watching. Yes I will expound. The reference I made to going slower was simply because the aftermarket blades are slightly shorter than the OEM blades and may require a slower speed to cut all the grass.
Ariens bought the manufacturer of my mower (Locke Power Reel Mower) & closed the company. I guess that eliminated a competitor. I now have a Bob-Cat zero turn that I'm very happy with. It has blades like your Gravely. I now about an acre weekly & only have to sharpen the blades a couple times per season.
Thank you for watching. I have operated bobcat machines in the past and yes, they seemed to be a good product. In 2008, after doing much research and "testing" many different brands, I kept going back to Gravely. I looked at JD, bobcat, dixie chopper, husqvarna, exmark, redmax, cub cadet, but I kept going back to Gravely. At that time, I had a friend that owned one tell me that if I ever bought one, I'd never have anything else. He was right. It's not about the engine or transmissions. Every commercial brand uses either Kohler or Kawasaki. It's the build quality. The frames, front casters, decks etc...that to me, set them apart. Watch my 1,200 hour review on my Gravely 452. The thumb nail reads "NO REGRETS". That will explain everything.
Is Ferris mowers available to you in your area? They are made top to bottom here in central N.Y. Great machine and have full suspension, even on the 48 inch "residential" model, which isn't residential at all.
@gregpeterson5067 thanks for watching. Not readily. The nearest dealership is 60 miles away. That's not that far but, when it comes to servicing, parts and repairs, it's quite inconvenient to drive that distance each and every time. On a different note, I've always been leary of the suspension on Ferris mowers. Over the years, I've had multiple guys that operate them tell me that they scalp the grass when the suspension activates. One told me that he is constantly having to lift the deck to prevent scalping. My big machine are Gravely's. Gravely has proven itself to be tough as nails. They cut great, ride very well and have great dealer support less than 20 miles from me.
Man, I watched your whole video and loved it. Glad because my 2011 Ariens Zoom 2350 with the Kohler engine is about to die, but she's still kickin, so I'm trying to decide what to get next. Looking at the Gravely but somebody said the new Gravely cuts higher now than the old ones. Scags cut lower now. Thanks for the info on the new design on the Ariens blades. won't look at them again. The one thing I wanted to tell you even though it's been a year since you made this video is something I noticed. You said your helper uses that Ariens and you used the Gravely but you couldn't figure out what you hit to cut your gas tank and it dawned on me. Your scuff mark next to the gas cap is the same color and the same height as the Gorilla lift you mounted on your trailer, so your helper probably hit it loading up. Stay dirty my friend. God bless.
@zippy1078 Thanks for watching and for your kind words. Your comment makes creating content worth while. Gravely machines, I have two of them, a pro turn 352 and a 452 will cut as low as 1.25 inches. Why anyone would cut that low is beyond me. No lawn should be cut lower than 2.75 inches. The gorilla lifts are actually 2 inches above the gas fill neck, so that's not a possibility. Not only that, the trim edge of the deck sticks out 4 inches beyond the fill neck. What that means is that the edge deck would hit the side rail of the trailer, prohibiting the fill neck from coming into contact with the housing of the gorilla lifts.
Well, all in all, I'd 100% agree with you being pissed! It's bad enough forcing their customers to use proprietory blades, but if they can't even make a GOOD quality blade it's adding insult to injury!
I can understand why they're designed like that, and there're good reasons for it, but the way they're going about it will just alienate potential buyers and certainly those who've already made the purchase of the machine!
Sure, one can fabricate spacers, and use longer HT bolts, to use the blades one prefers - but one SHOULDN'T need to have to resort to that to get blades that are up to the job.
That fuel tank design is one of the most asinine designs I've seen in a looong time - it's bad enough that it's sticking out in the breeze waiting to be broken off, but it means the whole tank needs to be replaced instead of just a neck.
So, you have some excellent points there, but while it says "Made in the USA", that means assembled*, as the rest of the label clearly states it uses parts from other countries, too.
It may be mostly US sourced parts, though, to be fair.
*Other terms that may be misleading are "assembled", "packed", etc.
Not sure about the current state of affairs, but for many years Honda and Toyota had more US sourced content than any of the "Big Three", on their cars made on the US assembly lines, because they used their own US factories for their parts.
Oh, forgot, you may find this amusing - way back in the sixties, you could buy cheap plastic toys marked "Made in USA" - there was a Japanese manufacturing town that renamed itself "USA", so it was technically correct.
Thanks for watching and WOW, what a response. This situation is partly my doing. When my craftsman z6400 went down unexpectly, I had to have a small mower...FAST. I didn't have time to do proper research, I bought the first 42" cut machine I found. If I had it to do all over again, I'd run, not walk away. All I can say is...LESSON LEARNED. It is a great machine other than the issues I mentioned in this video.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTV
I think we've all made a decision, or purchase, we regret later.
I call them BAD decisions - Best Available Data - it was the best call we could make on what we knew at the time.
Along the same lines, I call 'mistakes' "learning experiences" - the initial mistake is annoying, but if one can learn something from it, it can be some recompense. It's when I repeat the SAME 'learning experience' the real problem lies.
As it is, you should be able to have some spacers machined to place the cutting edges at the correct depth, and that will also allow you to have the pilot machined to the correct diameter for your favourite blades' mounting bore.
That fuel tank, though - NO POSSIBLE EXCUSE for that FUBAR design that should never have reached the drawing board/screen, let alone production.
Great video! Good information to know, I appreciate it.
Thanks for watching. I'm glad you found it helpful.
Get er done!
Hey brother! I need to call you. Got some camera questions.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTV I’m all ears!
A few things to look for when buying a zero turn. Depth and thickness of the deck, standard blades that are not bent stupid and gauge wheels in the 4 corners and in the middle of the deck. You will find that John deere makes a great commercial mower even though I am a kubota guy. I personally have a kubota commercial mower and I absolutely love it. The city runs Deere and I like that even better. Magmow blades fit on both. Awesome blades.
Thanks for watching. No offense intended but I wouldn't have a JD if it was given to me. Stamped decks don't last. My Gravely has almost 1200 hours on it and the deck still looks brand new. I've seen the magmow blades. Never used them though. I would have to check to see if they would be cost effective. If they're like tweels, most likely not.
Money is the reason
Exactly!
I use a 20v impact to work on things. And a 20v, 4.5" grinder with a regular grinding wheel to shape, and a flap wheel to finish.
Makes it really easy to sharpen blades, so with it being so easy I sharpen them each mow.
Mount a decent vice on the trailer or weld on a extra Reese receiver somewhere handy for a Reese style vice mount.
Thanks for watching!
I enjoy his videos! Down to earth without being an "EXPERT"
Thank you for watching and thanks for the kind words. I'm far from an expert. The info I give is from personal experience. I'm not a mechanic, I'm just a working man that works on my own stuff as much as I can.
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Well, I am sorry for the issues you have and have had. Mine must be a rare bird. I was going to rebuild the deck this winter, but I have had trouble with an engine overhaul on one of our cars and that has me wishing I had done differently. I almost traded up on the mower a couple of years ago, but decided not to do it. This Zoom 50 still has the original belts operating, heck, the battery lasted 6yrs. I did put an air ride seat on it early on, because it rides rough w/o the air ride seat. I don't recall ever having a problem with blowing stuff out of the mower deck front area.
I would have to say yes, you got a rare one. I guess it depends on which model you get. The Ikon envy isn't one of them.
I'm going to put another gas tank on my troybilt on the other side the same kind of gas tank that comes with it I'm going to put one on the other side so I got two of them
Can't do that with this one unfortunately.
Farm guys make the best mechanics … they grow up with wrenches
@davidbryant6779 Thanks for watching. I wouldn't say I'm a farm guy, but I did grow up in the deep country.
I have a Ikon 52in cuts like butter and I love all the features. Very well built machines with the Kawasaki engine.
Thanks for watching!
And looks like Ariens listened to you - gas fill doesn't jut out anymore. Don't know about the 52's blade longevity and aftermarket availability though.
Love my 52" Ikon
I have the same unit. Cut my two acres twice now. Love it so far. We shall see.
@mitchg.5125 it looks the same to me on the Lowes website
Good video, had a new ariens a few years ago, got rid of it and will never buy an ariens again, hope you have better luck than i did!😊
Thanks for watching. You and me both.
the dixie blades need washers between to offset and make it cut right and the right height
Thanks for watching. I had another similar comment. All I did was set my deck to 3.00 inches and measure the cut edge of the blade. It was 2.50 inches. I normally cut at 2.75 inches. At that height, I just set the deck to 3.25 and it cuts perfect.
@Big South Outdoors TV it's designed with the baffle in the deck I would play with 4 washers on each and compare
@Shane Pipkin it's nowhere near the baffle and is only 1/4 inch higher than the OEM blades. I checked with dealer and they said that is within specs.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTV dealers will tell you anything. it will make a difference if you try just saying I have played with it on my ferris
Great video i have been landscaping for 37 years Just bought a new Wright stander 48 not happy the gas tank should always be on the the right side of the mower just a dumb design . As a landscaper you know we all try to get as close to the edge of every thing we cut less time on the trimmer
YES!! Thank you for watching. I put a trimmer rack on my Gravely 452 to save trimming time.
Holy crap. I wooden blade would last longer than that!! LOL
🤣🤣🤣 Yep! Ariensco is not getting good feedback on their poor design. If you watched the whole video, and I hope you did, I ran the Oregon blades for 13 hours. I sharpened them and ran them for another 9 hours. They've good for one more sharpening. They've performed well.
Airens probably won't move the filler to the rear near the engine for fire safety. Just my observation. I had a Poulan Pro tractor style mower that I purchased a new fuel tank for, then found out that the original fuel tank had a recall on it. AYP/Husqvarna wouldn't reimburse me for the fuel tank because I am not an "authorized service center". Swapping out a fuel tank, and checking for leaks is elementary work, but they don't think so.
@Thomas-ul3uy thanks for watching. Funny thing is, the filler neck had been on the operator left arm side for several years with, to my knowledge, zero issues. WEIRD!
If you hard face those blades with a 7018 welding rod, you won't have to sharpen them but every couple of years. Nobody does it but me, I guess. But I ve been a mower mechanic for decades. Saves a lot of wasted time underneath the mower.
Thanks for taking the time to watch my video. That's something Worth looking into. Also something I've never heard of. The problem is, blades used every day won't last near that long. The lift edge wears through long before then. As you saw on this video, the cutting edge wasn't the issue. The lift edge was useless after only 18/19 hours of cutting. If there was a way to extend the life of the lift edge that would be AWESOME.
I would use a 7024 rod in the weak area, while it's thick enough to weld on. 7024 beads are flat, so you won't need to grind them down or anything. It will alloy with the blade metal, and should last two or three times as long. It's harder than the blade so it won't wear as much. If you choose to hard face the cutting edge, get the beads as smooth as you can, or it will take a long time grinding to get an edge back on it. I would guess two seasons then a touch up sharpen. The different metals will weigh different than the blade metal so try and get the same amount on both sides. When you go to sharpen the blade, you'll wonder if the grinder is doing anything. It won't be that easy to tell. You can see the metal is gone in the middle of the thrower. Just build it up an inch wide, make it thick. It's a harder metal. The blade might last three or four years if you do it right. It won't wear like the old one. It'll wear a little bit then you can put another pass or two on it next year. The harder metal will just polish up from the grass. They're making soft blades that wear out in the middle. They're not going to sell you blades that might last five years, or even three. I hard faced a set of blades with 9010 rod once, and it took forever to sharpen them but they stayed sharp for three years. Just my push mower. But I mowed yards back then. Yeah that whole middle about an inch wide needs built up on that blade. I would bet it'll last two years no matter how much you mow. There's probably something designed about the mowing deck that's throwing the grass all out to the edge, so it's sliding across the blade on its way out instead of going up away from the blade. I'd make a pair of hard blades out of some regular blades, and just see how long they lasted. That will tell you what you need to do to them. But yeah they don't advertise about hard facing mower blades. So what's your blade guy going to say when you don't buy any more for a couple of years? I'd love to see that picture...
Agree whole heartedly on hard surfacing the blades. I service dozens of commercial mowers and hard surface with nickel, resharpen and rebalance. Generally get three or four times the life out of them.
@@rogerray7820 this idea is intriging to me. I spoke with a metallurgist and he told me that doing so is a catch 22 situation. He said it's expensive to do and although it absolutely will extend the life of the cutting edge, it won't extend the life of the lift edge. That's how blades wear out. It's not the cutting edge that is no longer useful, it's the fact that dust, dirt and grass itself literally eat away the lift edge. Adding material before use would most certainly make the blade too heavy and a waste of money doing it after. His words, not mine....new blades are cheaper.
Could you make a video showing how to "hard surfaces a lawn mower blade"?
I had the same issue when I bought my cub cadet with a 48 inch cut. I changed the spindles to match a Blade that did not still have patent rights attached because the Cub Cadet Blades were almost twice as much and were very thin. This is strictly a money grab by manufacturers. Redesign Blade, Retain rights for 10 yrs., Charge extreme prices for said Blades and make them cheap so they wear out quickly. They are all scam artists.
Thank you for watching. I feel the same way. No machine should be built for the explicit purpose of wearing out prematurely, even down to the blades.
I just guessing that you probably hit a tree branch that was sticking out just far enough to hit the tank because you would have felt it had it stuck the tire and tank. What a bummer. I have a 48 Encore Edge (budget commercial $5900) and love the dual tanks 9gal.
Best of luck and be careful. ✌️✌️✌️✌️
Thanks friend. You do the same and thanks for stopping by.
I have the upgraded one, get it! It's worth it! The FX engine is a beast and only uses 1 gal per 2 acres of hilly land!!! Love the 4500 hydros! Did you find Gator blades for it?
I just bought a 52 inch ikon. I had the OEM deck belt snap in like 5 min. I found that no one seems to make 151.5 inch belts. And they are 100 bucks. I found that the 150 inch belt works and is 20 dollars. It has not snapped. This is my first experience with ariens and I am not impressed so far. We will see if the blade/belts are the only problems I run into.
Thanks for watching. It seems that Ariens level of quality depends on what you buy. Just as any other mower line, the more "commercial" it is, the higher the quality. That's why I'm sticking with anything Gravely from the ZTHD and up to the 600 series. Anything lower is garbage.
Have you thought about adding a metal deflector shield?
Never heard of one.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTV You might have to fabricate one yourself.
@Rosedach are you referring to a "mulch/chute guatd"? If so, the was that deck is designed, I would have to weld on the deck. Doing so would void the warranty on the deck.
Ariens is like a cheap Gravely. Have a two year old Gravely zt48. Very fast mower. Cut 4 acres. Sharpened once. Heated the edges cherry red and quenched in water. Also have a 1996 Sears (by AYP). Has 12 x 12 x 26 tractor lug tires. Still use it for cutting saplings, brush and ditches when wet and the steep banks around my shop and pulling the Gravely out when it gets stuck. Its blades are .200 thick spring leaf material.
Two issues with the Gravely. Brake cable broke and it did not come with Donaldson air filter. Has one now.
Thanks for watching. My pro turn 300 and 452 doesn't have a brake cable. This ariens does. The Gravely's brake system is contained inside the hydrogear pumps. I don't run factory blades. Too expensive. I run the HD copperhead blades by Rotary. The last FOREVER.
Thanks for reporting and the trouble you went through to make this video, Brian. Do you still use the OEM tires you got on that "96 F-150? or the oil or brake shoes? Just get the heaviest ,hardest, and thickest 14 in. blades (preferably Oregon ) with 5/8 in hole that you need, and after a week or two, order another set and just switch them out every two or three weeks after you take a file or flap wheel to the sharp edges and bottoms. I get the 42" restriction on the width of you machine and the huge contrast in quality after that Craftsman. I use a floor jack and a couple of jack-stands (Harbor Freight) to support and change the blades on my 600 lb. 54 " BadBoy. That fuel tank filler tube De-laminating is an Ariens design flaw.and probably should be recalled by the National Highway Traffic Safety Board (NHTSA) or equivalent in your state ; just a few phone calla and the pictures from your RUclips video ,and tell Ariens that you're thinking of running those same pictures to your lawyer, too. Fuel leaks are BIG Deals. Wishing You well, Brian .
WOW! Thanks for watching and for that GREAT response. It was full of great info. Although I still have Ole Gertrude, she's retired. We're in the process of going through her and getting her road worthy for Nate to use as his daily driver. I'll look into the fuel tank safety issue. In all honesty, I never considered or even thought about reporting it. Food for thought.
I have used my Zero Turn mower to mower on our church soccer field. Here in Florida, we have a lot of sand instead of soil. After mowing the field, the lift edge was gone, and the cutting edge severely rounded. Now when I mow that field, I use an old set of blades, and just throw them away afterwards. Sand blades would help, but not available for my model.
Thanks for watching. Have you ever tried Copperhead blades by Rotary? They are high lift blades with a sand relieve divot that allows sand to bypass the lift edge and drastically reduces wear n the lift edge. Check out my blade comparison video. Here's the link...
ruclips.net/video/dRRVXYegNWI/видео.htmlsi=VL0HxDqYbZvLcquR
Call copperhead mower blades, talk to tech service and give them the spec's of the OEM blades. They may be able to help you out. They make blades with the same offset.
Thanks for the advice but, unfortunately, with the patent, no aftermarket blades are available. The ones in this video just happen to be the same dimensions even thought they are for a Dixie Chopper.
What's the number y'all?
They should recall that tank.
@robertlam-qd1xb after speaking with ariensco, not knowing how it got damaged, they said it was most likely operator error and wouldn't offer any resolution. I love my Gravely, but this experience has left a BAAAAAD taste in my mouth for Ariens as a company. It will be years down the road but when that day comes, I'm SERIOUSLY considering going to another brand mower.
@@MrLouChris number for what, Ariensco?
I bought an Ariens Ikon XD 52 with the Kawasaki. I've had it for almost 4 years and have had zero problems with. I even used it commercially for a year, Gator Blades and all... It runs/cuts great. I agree that you should be able to use aftermarket blades. Sorry to hear you haven't had a great experience.
Thanks for watching. They redesigned the envy and changed a lot of things and NOT for the better. I'm glad to hear you've had good success. I wish I could say the same.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTVI'm not going to lie. I'm a little jealous of the lights on yours! 😂 😂 Not sure when I would use them but I like them. I've looked at adding lights to mine just for fun. 👍👍
LOLOL, when you showed US the tag that showed where the mower was built, it made me chuckle. The mower is made in the US with out-sourced parts...LOL
Thanks for watching.
ruclips.net/video/PPCaqCRg_vI/видео.htmlsi=y1gyjMU47kKnEH52
The “Out-Sourced” parts is the engine and tires. Everything else is built in house.
@@monroefive-o40
ruclips.net/video/PPCaqCRg_vI/видео.html
This mans livelihood depends on the church, god bless this man
@@snowjammma Thank you for watching. God is my source. The members of his body are some of my customers. 😁
If I'm Ariens I'm sending you a free gas tank and a check for your hard work at testing and doing the work of the failed engineering dept.
Thank you for watching and.....THANK YOU! I found out at the dealership I am dealing with now that the gas tank WAS covered by the warranty. The dealership I bought this machine from, the one I left after 22 years of trading with them, it was NOT covered under the warranty. Another reason I am no longer trading with that dealer.
Can you please give us a follow up a yr or later to see if the spindles are cheap and that's why they use such a thin blade.
@jesusbolivar9178 thanks for watching. I am working on just such a video. It's going to the editing room in the next week or so.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTVwow , did dealer pocket yer cash, the Love of money, the root of all evil. Lord Bless.
What we used to do to change is: Leave the mower on the trailer with the mower facing rearwards. Then park the mower with its forewardmost wheels stopped right at the rear edge of the trailer deck with the deck raised. Laying on the ramp, using a piece of plywood or cardboard, we always had plenty of room to change the cutting edges. It's great for when the ground's wet and also makes it a little easier to get up after!
Your blades are all junk. We used our blades about 6 hours a day. They were sharpened once a week and changed twice a season only.
Thanks for watching. The position of the mower is dependent on the angle of the gate. That's why you see me using the ramp. It increases the angle. I'm a big guy and need the extra room.
I don't know how you get away with sharpening/changing blades twice a season. I sharpen and change blades every week. Dull blades cause the tips of the grass blades to turn brown, and customers do not like that. I've been doing this for 25 years now, and my system works well.
That tank was an easy fix
Thanks for watching. Yes, it was easy, but EXPENSIVE. If they had loated the fill neck on the back where I described in the video, it wouldn't have been an issue. I wish they would involve end users in the designing process of these machines. Wishful thinking I know.
Brauh. Not sure where your from, but how much sand is in your yard? Those blades look like they have been sandblasted. However. I feel where you are coming from.
Nope! Not sandblasted. The steel they are made from is NOT hardened. Most of the soils we cut on are loamy not sandy. That is what happens when blades are made on the cheap.
Must be 19 hrs in a sand pit. No way. 47 year mechanic here.
24 years in lawn care for me. Sand? Some but not much. Most of my accounts are borderline muddy. Look at the difference between the oe and Oregon blades. I got 3 sharpening out of the Oregon blades. As you saw, 18/19 hours and the oe blades were shot.
I spent 20 years as a fleet mechanic with as many as 20 mowers running all day in very dry and muddy condition. Remember, it's all grit. Now some blades may be softer than others and not all mowers have the same blade speed.
@henrysmith8012 thanks for watching. Exactly! The blades for this machine are NOT hardened. I found that out AFTER filming this video. I thought it might be a defective set of blades so, I bought another set. Turns out they WERE NOT defective. We cut in even wetter conditions and I got the same result. The long and short of it, the OEM blades are JUNK.
You are exactly right about the blades being very soft. If you cut a whole day long . You have to sharpen the blades. And the next day the same. Then you have to get new blades. And I live in the mountains of N.C. But I love the engine and power . I have Ikon XD 52
I have an Ariens ikon onyx 52” and I am having same issue with my blades. Just bought a new set and cut the lawn twice and they look like that already. My question is when you switched to the Oregon blades, did it change the cutting height since they are flat?
@chrisnold1440 thanks for watching. As a matter of fact, it did. The factory blades have a 3/4" drop. I just measured the blades at each height i,e. 2.5, 2.75, 3.0, etc, until I got my desired cut height on the blades. Once I figured out the difference in height between the deck adjustment and the actual blade height, knowing where to put the pin in the deck adjustment was easy. I hope this helps...
Had mine for two weeks and sold at a $500 loss. No bueno......went out and got a bobcat 48 sit down
I'm looking at a Bobcat 42" for the same reason.
Look at encore before hand! It's the best mower I've ever used! And ice tried all of them! I'm not a dealer! I'm a owner operator lawncare service! You'll love the price and how much heavier duty they are!!! Plz don't just dismiss it cuz you don't know about them ( if you do cool) but wow! 52 inch is small ass I can go!
Will the new blades sit at the same height of the ground as the replacement blades and mow hawks might be a problem
Thanks for watching. No, they will not, but there's an easy fix for that. I set my deck at 3 inches, measured the actual height of the blades. They were 3/4" higher than the factory blades so, it I want to cut at 3", I set my deck at 2 1/4 or 2.25". That puts the blades at almost 3" give or take a mm.
Don’t give up on the XD Brian. I think it will still serve you well
Thanks for watching!
On the Ikon you can use a straight mulching blade with the curve sharp edges. I use the mulching blade. I believe it's a 52 inch three blade Murray .
Thank you for watching. The blade you saw in this video was the only blade available for this machine at the time and they cost $84.00 for 3 of them. That's why I went to the Oregon blade for the Dixie Chopper. It's only 1/16" shorter which makes no difference at all when cutting, and they last several sharpenings.
As a gardener for 20+ years i can say this base on years of experience, bought a route with a mix of yards some nice yards and some with nothing bit patches of weeds and weedy grass, I was replaceing blades very often all looking like the ones you show in this video, for a reason not worh mentioning i separeate the account with nice lawns, and after just cutting this nice yards i dont have to reaplace the blades for months, so if you make dust when moving for sure you are removing life on the blades
Thanks for watching. How do you do that? I don't have time to stop and change blades. All blades, regardless of ground quality stir dust, much like a helicopter blade. Only difference between the two is a mower creates suction where a helicopter blows downwards. The end result is the same, DUST. No metal blade is going to last any length of time and give a quality cut traveling at those speeds that close to the source of the damage.
Can u hardsuface weld the areas that grind down or the leading edges to get longer life? I'd bet welding rods are cheaper than blades. But I am in Canada so who knows. Good vid. If only I had a lawn .
Thanks for watching. Canada eh? We have friends in Calgary, Alberta. Great suggestion but unfortunately, you can't buy just one welding rod. Nit only that, I only have a Lincoln mig welder for small repairs. Last time I checked, I tube of welding rods were over $40.00 US. I can buy a set of 3 Oregon blades for $48.00. Not sure welding would be more cost effective.
My friend. Is it possible that you bumped that yellow bar on ur trailer backing off the trailer? If it lines up it could happen again. When those front wheels flip; it can temporarily throw the mower off course.
Thanks for watching, and I appreciate your observation. That has been mentioned in the past. Unfortunately, it is impossible. While on the trailer, the gas cap sits about 5" higher than the gorilla lifts, plus the edge of the deck sticks out a good 4" beyond the fill cap. That prevents any possible contact with the gorilla lift. While on the ground, the gorilla lifts are over 18" higher than the gas cap. Not to argue, but there's absolutely no chance the fill neck was damaged being unloaded from or loaded onto the trailer.
You are cutting sand, that's why.
There are a few of my clients that have sand but most aren't. I've spoke to two others that had the same issue I had, premature blade wear. The Oregon blades I installed on this video are still on the ariens mower as of today, 6-7-23. They have 12 hours on them and other than the missing paint, the look almost new. The patented ariens blades are obviously made of very soft material.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTV Have you found the gravely blades to be better?
@@alzuu1 no. The best cutting, longest lasting blade for the gravely is Copperhead blades by Rotary. They last FOREVER.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTV I did some research and it seems like the Ikon, Gravely ZT-X, ZT-XL don't have after market blades like you said. Things like the Gravely HD and up and the Ariens Apex(which is the step up from the Ikon) do. The blades on those are about .2 inches thick while the one that's for the Ikon and the gravely ZT-Xs is only .16 inches so I'm guessing the .20 inch blades are more high quality.
@@alzuu1 the blades for this Ikon are only 14.5 inches long.
I have a Ariens Ikon 52 inch love the way it mows nice machine only problem my deck belt broke at 20.4 hours
Thanks for watching. Not all Ariens machines are lemons. They changed the design on the envy 42" cut in 2023. The 2022 models was completely different. I'm glad you've had success with your choice. Best of luck in the future.
Brian, the blades I use on my Zoom 50, same as yours shape wise. I order blades off of Ebay, aftermarket blades, You can order 1-10 sets or more at a time and save $$$. They are made in the USA and I get up to 3 cuts on blade usage, weather new or sharpened.
Thanks for letting me know. I will have to check to see if they have them for a 42" cut. The blades for this machine have a patent on them, and as of the filming of this video, there were no blades available in the aftermarket world. That's why I went with the flat oregon blades featured in this video. I called Rotary, Stens and USA blades. None of them had blades the same shape and length as the OEM bldes.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTV I double-checked and yes they are listed on Ebay, they are priced higher than last year, but they are listed.
Thinking about buying that same mower, this video helped me decide to go on and get it. New subscriber also!
Thank you for subscribing and for watching. BEFORE you pull the trigger on that purchase, may I suggest you watch this video FIRST....
ruclips.net/video/or-QxPETcjg/видео.htmlsi=taZaxv0ZKxkaqryJ
I think it’s awesome that he replies to his subscribers!!!
We love our Big South family...
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTV I’m from the South Mobile Al, but have and currently live in Birmingham Al, yes us southerners know how to treat folks!!!
@@PamelaBrandonChromeFoto southern hospitality in action.
Thank you for the video, just wish I saw it before I bought the same machine. I am a homeowner so hoping it holds up a little better bit not holding out much thinking that will happpen. Mine went back to the dealer two weeks after I got it cause I got filthy mowing and they agreed to install the baffle for free that Ariens wants large for and they also had to replace the seat, the cover basically was junk. I do have a question, can you share how the Oregon blades worked out, was the weight an issue and if not did the cut improve? Thanks in advance.
@jackdonovan1495 Thanks for watching. I've done a series on this machine. What I can tell you is, I wouldn't kick a bull in the butt for a truck load of them. On the seat, yes, it's absolute JUNK. The Oregon blades are fine for this machine. It has no problem turning them, and they cut wonderful. Remember, there is a difference in the blade height so you'll have to set your deck height pin and then measure the actual height of the cutting edge of your blades.
I'm looking at a Gravely ZTX 42. The serial number is 918008. Do those also use the same proprietary blades as the Ariens?
Thanks for watching. 918 model number, RUN! That is the EXACT SAME TURD as this Ariens, just has red paint. STAY AWAY from it. If you're looking at the Gravely line, look at the proturn Z or ZX. They are the entry level commercial but many buy them for personal use. They're only a grand or so more but are FAR better built than the "RED" Ariens.
That Icon series is really for residential only. Aries Apex series is there middle of the road mower for larger lots and some commercial. I find it better to use factory parts for everything, and my cuts are real nice. Good luck with all the hard work I do some on the side also.
I responded to your other comment. I find myself have to clarify myself to a lot of people that don't seem to understand that I knew it was a residential machine. I bought this machine because of that very fact. As I stared in my.other comment, I had been running a Craftsman Z6400. It was made by MTD. When I bought it, it was used and had 149 hours on it. When I sold it, it had over 600 hours on it, and the man that bought it is still using it. That is why I felt comfortable buying this Ariens. I was told by the dealer that it was a superior machine to the craftsman in every way. IT'S NOT! It's a P.O.S. I have spent a lot of money just keeping it going. As I stated, had the dealer told me, "you need something heavier and more commercial", I would've listened. They told me it would be a much better machine than what I had. THEY WERE WRONG.
Great info 🇺🇸
@@RetiredClay Thanks for watching.
I have a 4-year old Ikon 52 I've been quite happy with. If I had that model, I'd likely put on 'straight' blades - which would change the value of the height settings, but I would just have to figure out the height difference between the straight blades and the patented Ariens one. Seems simple to me.
@quantumjim45 thanks for watching. Did you not watch the whole video? I showed the blades I was going to be using, flat blades made by Oregon for a Dixie Chopper.
The lawn mower I got carries 103 inch belt and it's $60 102 inch belt is 10.00 I cut the end of the tensioner off and redrill the hole belt works great
Thanks for watching!
Good video. Last year, I waited almost 2 months for blades for a customers lawn mower. Couldn't find them anywhere. Thanks
Thank you for watching. That's one of the reasons I started using Oregon blades. They work just as good even though they are completely different, plus they're available everywhere.
LOL. That blade is a patented mess! Thanks for this presentation! Really enjoyed it!
Thanks for watching. Yes, they are, and thank you for the kind words.
@@BigSouthOutdoorsTV I've had cheap blades on my old Craftsman tractor erode like that. A dangerous mess for sure. The Oregon blades I have used last much better and after a year just need sharpened.
@chairrider2462 that's what I use on this machine now.
Great video, excellent information. This country boy still would have repaired the gas tank. JB Weld or some such adhesive would work just fine. Maybe even reinforce the panel by the gas tank lid.
Thank you for watching and for that AWESOME comment. This country boy is going to repair it, but this is my busy time of the year. I hope you subscribed. If you did, stay tuned. I will most certainly be doing a video about it.
I have used Hot Melt glue gun to repair tanks and gas cans?
I am looking for my first entry leavel commercial zero turn mower and this video has opened my eyes to a few great points. I will study the thickness and lift of the blades these zero turn mowers have and I also noticed the spindels on both mowers are forged and not cast made. I think the forged are stronger and better made. I will also keep in minded to look at any flaws in gas tank designs. Thank you " Big South Outdoors " !
You're most welcome and thank you for watching. Look into the Gravely Pro Turn Z series. I'm considering one next season.
Aaron's built my Craftsman 20 years ago had the same shape blades they were $90 to replace. The reason for the shape of the blade at the time was so you could add a flat one on the bottom so it could be a mulching deck. That way both cutting edges were at the same level
Ariens never made Craftsman. Craftsman, like many other box store mowers, were made by either MTD or AYP.
Sears sent me to home Depot to buy Aaron's parts to fix it
Brian, a while back we chatted about your blade(s) issue on your Ariens zero turn. I have been trying to remember early on in my operating of my Ariens Zoom 50 and remembered mowing at near ground zero, decided to raise it up to 3.5 in for better lasting blades. All we have here is sand and they get blasted. At the low setting I used to use, I would only get one cutting on our 1.5ac, but by raising the blade to 3.5in, I was able to get 3 cuttings before sharpening or tossing. Also at the low blade setting I remembered having more problems with dirt flying out from under the mower as well.
Thanks for watching. You are exactly right. Cutting at too low a setting is hard on everything on the machine. If that weren't enough, we stopped cutting lower than 3" several years ago. We cut most properties at 3.25-3.50". These blades are NOT hardened. That's why they don't last. Bottom line, they are complete junk.
I own the Ariens Zenith for 3 years and I have had no problems whatsoever never change the blades but I don't mow my grass low or wet grass either I mow 4 inches or higher.
Thanks for watching. When you mow every day, changing/sharpening blades weekly is a MUST. Otherwise, the grass blade tips turn brown. That is a sure sign the blades need sharpening. Some guys put sharp on every other day. That is kind of overkill IMHO.