It wasn't a vacuum leak | Oil control valve diagnosis/replacement
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- Опубликовано: 30 май 2022
- The oil control valve is not the same as the VVT solenoid for the FA20. It took me a lot of asking around and guessing and checking before I finally figured out how to diagnose this. That is exactly what I address in this video. The installation itself is probably the easiest thing you can do to a car other than changing an air filter or a battery.
If you think you may have a vacuum leak but none of the gauges indicate a vacuum leak, this might be your problem. The symptoms are very similar in most ways to a vacuum leak, but the sensors are what give it away.
If you also happen to hear a ticking that sounds like its coming from the head, that is a little louder than the normal injector tick, that could also be a sign too that this is your problem.
References:
• Replace/upgrade FA20 F...
HERE ARE SOME LINKS:
instagram: @austin_from_tx
www.autoscience.com/
www.iagperformance.com/
www.kraken-motorsport...
www.dotsontuning.com/
www.maperformance.com
www.subieflow.com/
www.subispeed.com/
www.optionlabwheels.com/
www.falkentire.com/
www.grimmspeed.com/
www.jdmfv.com/
www.cobbtuning.com/
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LAKEY INSPIRED:
outro:
• Island
/ lakeyinspired 
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Awesome video, now I know what to go check for. I believe I'm having the exact same issue with our 2014 Forester XT - sometimes there will be a really rough idle while other times it would be remarkably smooth, like there were a few times that I thought the engine had stalled out it was so quiet/smooth but it was actually still running. I bought the car used off someone and I was about to put TGV's back in, return the car to stock, take it in to Subaru etc. Now I can just plug in the access port and see what's going on!
This should save a lot of people a headache. My Crosstrek did this and I cleaned the oil control valve with CRC Mass air flow like you did but I cleaned the Pin out and put new oil in the two ports on the valve. Been great for quite some time now. My STi is a 2004 so our solenoids are different but can still be cleaned and put back in to work.
Your diagnostic symptoms were exactly what my Impreza is doing. I do appreciate the fact that you did the R n D…and narrowed the issue to the VVT Solenoid. I have been working on my own cars for lots of years. The Impreza has been a great car to own…but when I run into issues …like this vvt Solenoid…it was a mystery. I am going to give it a go…and if it address the issue…I will be back to subscribe.
Any luck, how’d it go?
How did it go?
That's fantastic! Good to know for future maintenance also. I'm at 101,356 in my 2016 wrx limited. no shakes anymore. Finally got my DAM back to 1.000 today!
That’s awesome man! It’s always a good feeling when your car is back to normal and you figured it out yourself
That’s good. Do you have any mods?
What was wrong that you had to fix?
The current drawn is also another good indicator if its working properly...when monitoring compare the current range as well. Mine was reading low current as well as delayed movement
Thank you for making this video
Thank YOU for watching it 😘
By any chance do you know the part number to the o ring for that valve?
Thanks bro you found my damn Issue that's been driving me mad for the past few months now! didn't see it because of the intake cover (14 forester XT) but it was drenched in oil! I ordered the part but do you have to drain oil when changing this part out? looks like it does not come with spacer or O ring.
P000D on my 2017 WRX STI happened last week haven’t used my car since then symptoms: misfiring, poor performance. Should I try this.?
Hey mate, you mention the rev drop, could you elaborate a bit more on what you mean by that?
My guess is after you've been driving, turn off the car, then get in and turn it on, you get a major drop in revs before it normalises/stabilised?
I saw in my engine bay that one of mine has more oil around it than an oil mine lol, so guessing it may be toast. Thanks for the vid, would never have thought this could mimic a vac leak (symptomically).
I’m wondering if this is the issue I’ve been facing for the last good while. I have a 2017 WRX with only 45k on it and I’ve been having issues with it idling down to 500rpms when coming up to a stop and out of gear, sometimes stalling completely. I installed a AOS since I figured it was a bad PCV valve, that seemed to have helped but it happens most often when I’m close to needing an oil change, was going to do spark plugs and clean the throttle body since those are the other items I can think of. Were your symptoms similar to that? I also feel a lack of power and want to be sure before I spend the $120 a piece on these solenoids.
Thats interesting. My 2017 WRX actually threw a code (p0018) and didnt have any hesitation issues, just the christmas lights on the dash. I need to get a walnut blasting done on mines at 60k miles.
So this was your issue buddy? I got a little issue going on and I may try this. Thanks in advance and great channel, also how did you know which valve it was ? You said there is 4 correct?
Yessir! I really appreciate the kind words! If you look them up on the accessport, there is one for each cam and they are labeled intake/exhaust left or right
Would this cause a P0441 code? 2017 WRX.
Also do you know what the part # for the latest version of the VVT solenoid is? From what I understand they went through few revisions
It’s all the same number, but the last digit is a 1 instead of a 0
Po302 on my 2006 subaru sti. Pita troubleshooting
Haveing the same issue !
Question, i think this is my issue. Least, i hope so. Car idles fine, then poof drops like 100rpm and boggs, then self recs and normalized. I see PCV R drops to 50.26 while my L stays between 53 and 55...
Exhausts are always stable at 42.
Can this make you misfire under boost ? I also have the same symptoms in the idle part, but I already checked everything else and nothing was wrong. So at this point im just trying to see other options
I wouldn’t think so, I never had a misfire when this was my issue. I’m also dealing with this issue again, on a different Cam, and now am getting a misfire. I’m currently suspecting a boost leak since fuel, spark and hopefully compression are all good, it must be air
I'm dealing with similar behavior on my BRZ. I have a new valve coming tomorrow let's hope this fixes it. Were your fuel trims off too? Mine seems to be running rich for no reason.
Honestly not sure. I monitored Afrs, which all looked good. Which is why I couldn’t 100% confirm it was a vacuum leak. But really not sure if that’s the same as fuel trims. But I don’t think I had an issue there
@austin from texas fuel trims are the adjustment your car does between target and actual AFR. Say it pulls 10% fuel to get to the target afr you'll have a trim of -10%
Did this fix your issue? My 2016 having rough idle which I’m winding down to throttle body (when I turn the car off I hear a loud pop noise every time like pressure is trying to release), pcv valve, or lines for the turbo.
Also when i cold crank it rattles like crazy with exhaust sputters unless I give it some gas then immediately goes away.
Been driving me crazy for the past few months.
No CEL though.
It did definitely fix the issue I was having, however my car wasn’t having any of the symptoms you’ve listed here
Corey Carter , did you fix your problem
If a sensor pop on your dash that mean it work maf always work if not you oversize or some
hey boss how did u know which of the four to replace, did u just replace the one that was dipping lower at idle ? I believe I'm currently dealing with the same issue
The ocv duty cycle that would drop in sync with the idle dip is the one that was bad
I believe this is my issue on my 2021 wrx with only 20,000 miles . The idle from mile 1 was erratic and had a hesitation when accelerating . I looked at all 4 OCV's on my Cobb Accessport and the exhaust OCV's are both identical , BUT my intake OCV's are all over the place at idle or accelerating, so I ordered a couple . Do you have the torque specifications for the two 10mm bolts ? I can't find them anywhere and have no access to STIS data . Excellent video ! Thanks
6nm I believe
i have a 2016 brz and i've been having idle issues and a little engine knock do you guys think that it'll be the problem?
(Step 1) Oil change, (Step 2) Variable Valve Timing change, (Step 3) O2 Sensor Change. Normally, the majority of problems with Subaru revolve around the VVT (Step 2).
So my issue is that its idling higher than normal. Check the PCV valve and replace the hose from the AOS to the PCV valve and its high. Would this have the same affect?
Just saying probably not related but you can literally adjust the idle right from the accessport you didn't make any changes on the AP did you
I have the exact problem with my car. Thank you for this video. I will change the sensor. Was wondering if you have the part number .
Hey Francis…I have a part number of 35-1265 from auto zone. Not sure if it would be cross referenced to other box stores. But you can give it a try.
@@ipatchee007 thank you. Appreciate it !!
There is a screen shot of an OCV in the video at some point. The updated part number is the same except the last digit is a 1 instead of a 0. I’m glad it helped you!
@@austinfromtexasso your car came with the one ending in 0 and you replaced with the one ending with 1? Wanted to make sure they are interchangeable before ordering new ones. Thanks for the awesome video man!
I'm having the same issue but when I monitor OVC duty they're all ready 9.4% at idle. Any idea what that means?
Mine are both at 9.4% too, but my rough idle is coming and going...sometimes its running great, then out of nowhere rough idle and misfires.. I get the Misfire codes on 1 and 3, and the camshaft position P0011. You ever figure out what yours was?
Retuned. Now it’s running great! 🥲
So my car has been throwing a po172 consistently. More and more frequently. I just checked those gauges and the ocv duty int R is lower than left. Just asking to be clear, should they stay the same side my side at all times or just went rpm’s drop? The right is about 3.x lower than the left TIA
So yes. If the ocv numbers are differing, then there is an issue. If there is not an issue, then the rpm’s won’t drop and the numbers will stay the same
@@austinfromtexas so they should be the same left and right correct? It’s been a headache dealing with this… it looks like they are dropping at the same rate. But the right is lower value than the left at all times. Does that make sense?
@@austinfromtexas
I have a 2015 Forester with FA20DIT, check lights P0172 showed more and more frequently this year.
I replaced new MAF, O2 sensors, spark plugs and ignition coils.
I checked vacuum leaks, after check, they are ok.
I will check my fuel injectors and those OCVs.
Thank you.
🤩🤩🤩
@@lcwei2238 Let us know if you have resolved the P0172 issue.
what is the good reading of the OCV duty Int.?
I believe it’s 54
Hey my man. You wouldn't happen to have gone to mmi down in Phoenix Around the The year of 2009 to 10
So if there's 4 sensors, how do you know which one to replace?
At 3:11 in the video you can see he has 4 OCV duty monitors set on the Accesport. Look for the one that’s not reading the same as the other 3 and that’s probably the one that’s bad
this doesnt apply to a va chassis sti does it? Im getting a cam position code
I would imagine it could. They both use avcs and I would imagine those are both controlled by the OCV
hoping this is the challenge on my brz. just got slapped with p000b code. Tuner and mechanic reconommended i swap out all 4 oil control valves for new oem ones. there goes another $500 on something thats not cool like a big wing or carbon splitter 😓
Big wing or carbon splitter? This is why Subaru owners get a bad wrap. Would rather look cool than do maintenace and have a reliable car
How'd that go? Did any codes return a few days after replacing all 4?
@@tfpjr ended up topping off my oil from middle of Low and Full lines, up to the Full line. then after clearing the code it never came back. but at that point i had already ordered all 4 solenoids and had them in hand so, just said fk it and replaced 'em all. haven't seen the issue again. I probably didnt need to replace them and it was just a fluke of going up a very steep hill without my oil topped off but eh you can always make more money
@@15subarusti59 I spent the 500 immediately and swapped the oil solenoids even though i probably didnt need to. chasing maintenance and minor issues is the reason i dont have a big wing or splitter already. my cars boosted, lowered and on big wheels so yeah i want some aero
@@rawrbrz bro you don't even check your oil lmfao why would you dump money into exterior upgrades when you're just gonna spin a bearing from oil starvation anyways? I don't even drive my STi without checking my engine oil. It's a daily routine when you drive a turbo car my 2015 sti is a iag closed deck stage 4 shortblock, built heads, gsc cams, fp black turbo, id1700cc with double fuel pumps on a radium hangar with hobbs switch, ams intake manifold, koyo radiator, ets front mount with all titanium piping, steel braided fuel lines, cylinder 4 mod, cobb flex fuel, act twin disk clutch, e70 tune 600whp, among a ton of other upgrades, full build, the whole 9 yards. If you think you're engine oil is gonna check and change itself then don't even bother buying any upgrades for the car because you will need the money for a new shortblock eventually. There is absolutely no reason for your oil to be running low.
The one u change was it the ocv int L ?
Yes that is the one that was bad
Dam im having the same issue, you said if you pull the plug and its got oil on it ,its bad right....??
Dam... I only bought one
Yes that’s a good sign that something is wrong and it needs to be replaced
Did you end up replacing all 4?
I got a 2016 Subaru forester 2.0xt. Last week I was having a p0016 (bank 1) code. Put some engine flush cleaner from Subaru in there. Changed the oil and it seemed to clear the code. Drove about 500 miles and now I’m getting a p0017(bank 1 exhaust). I’m going to try and replace both of vvt on bank 1 and see if this works. I was getting a terrible idle, almost on the verge of shutting off.
See what happens.. I wouldn’t say it’s a cheap fix if you have to replace more then one lol.😅😅
True, not really cheap if you’re spending $400+ however, I did not replace all of them. Once it blew up, the shop replaced at least 1 and I have had to replace 1 more since it got tuned. So we’re at 3 total. And I feel like I might need to do 1 more cause the values are still off. So short answer, no, but maybe soon yes haha
Hey did u have to drain the oil by any chance?
Not at all
You absolutely should. Old oil is inside that ocv and you don’t want to have contaminated (used) oil flowing through your new ocv. Change the ocv immediately after you change the oil
will this cause oil in ur vacuum lines?
OCV DUTY RXH L IS 42, OCV DUTY exh R 42, ocv duty int l is 53.3, ocv duty int r is 52.5.
Not totally sure, but I doubt it. Based on those numbers, if the min for intR was only one below, I don’t think the ocv is the problem.
@@austinfromtexas would my vacuum pump be bad ?
what was the trouble code
I never actually got a CEL. Just a waning idle
Just want to confirm that when it says "R" or "L" that "R" means the right side of the engine when looking out of the windshield, not looking at the engine from the front.
I'm assuming it's looking at the engine standing in front of it? so Left is passenger and right is Driver side? I'm having the same issue and have changed so much parts hopefully this is the end. I'll keep you guys posted.
@@MrDIJEN15 Actually, "right" is the passenger side and "left" is driver. I replaced my right intake OCV. Solved my issue immediately. Very easy fix in 10 minutes or less. OCV is not cheap though. Cost me close to $80.
@@JetDriver77 literally in my Wrx right now. Changed the monitors and checking fluctuation. Also thanks for the clarification. Also how big of a difference were they?
@@MrDIJEN15 The bad one (right intake) was dipping below 50 for me into the mid to high 40's. It was the only one doing it when my car was having the stumbling so I assumed it was the culprit. Looks like that was also the one that went bad for the original poster of this video.
@@MrDIJEN15 Your car will need to be having the uneven idle to see the fluctuations in voltage for the bad valve.
The old "ever since" statement.
first off you dont put break cleaner on a maf sensor lmao
Didn’t seem to hurt anything🤷🏻♂️smells like maf cleaner🤷🏻♂️
Sprayed literally hundreds of MAF sensors with brake clean, carby cleaner, electronics cleaner and even one with white lithium grease by accident. Didn't make a tiny difference and I saw the cars come back 6-12months later running great.
Is there two oil control valve? Or just one?