The Cold Hard Truth about Fumoto Oil Valves
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- Опубликовано: 25 фев 2024
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The results will g-shock you. We've all seen this thing before. The Fumoto Engine Oil Valve replaces your oil pan drain bolt and allegedly speeds up the oil change process, allowing you to drain your car's old oil with the flip of a valve. But is this JDM trinket really worth the money? Will it really save you time? Netgear57 wonders. 
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That thing is so slow that if it does open going down the road you'll be able to make it where you're going before you run out of oil 😂
Had one of these on my '07 Outback for 50,000 miles. Overlanded with it a bit and never had an issue. They do sell a plastic lock clip that locks the valve lever in place, too.
That oil is new and thicker than used oil also its cold , you normally do a oil change while the oil is warm or hot , I have that valve on my car and it drains just as fast as using a normal plug
same my wrx drains pretty fast@@j_zales1390
The wrong camera falling over really caught me off guard.
How tf did you watch it already??
The Cosmos have a particular sense of humor.
It subverted my expectations
No clue what a fumoto oil valve is. I just like netgear videos.
I hope as the channel grows they do more Project Farm style showing and comparing products. Looks like a fancier brass T-Valve from a bathroom
They were popular in the diesel truck world back in the day. You don't hear much about them anymore
They're essentially a brass, natural gas valve. I absolutely love the things. Been using them since the 90s. Never have to touch an oil drain valve again.
CCF tradition, netgear drops his camera in every netgear video.
lemme get that futa valve
Added to sticker ideas list thank you
Cold oil flows so much slower. One great thing about the Fumoto valve is draining hot engine oil without burning your hand, dropping the drain plug into the pan. Plus, because it's so easy to do an oil change I never go over milage on an oil change. Used them for years on many cars and will continue to use them.
I never had an issue with a drain plug until I installed a skid plate. The access hole to drain is large enough, but I'd always have oil splashing on top of the plate, which would migrate everywhere. The Fumoto valve makes oil changes super clean and easy. No tool oil changes. Also, the threads don't extend past the threads of the pan itself, so it's not leaving any more oil in than normal.
I'm definitely ordering an F106N now with these two comments. The drain plug on my Ford F53 is 2 feet off the ground but the oil just gushes over the solid front axle - and splashes out of the drain pan - when the plug falls. With the Fumoto I'll be able to start draining 10 seconds after I shut off the 6.8 liter V10, and with a tube I can drain right into the container I'm hauling to O'Reilly's. No more wasted shop towels for the front axle.
@@ElmoIsBold You and me both buddy
Been using Fumoto oil drain valves since the 1990s. Love them. The one I put in my new 2007 F-150 FX4 is still going strong in 2024. Never a drip.
Put one in, never have to mess with a drain plug again.
True...same here. IT's true that it does take longer to drain but with hot oil, it's not as different as it was in this video. I usually crack mine open and then while it's draining, I remove the old oil filter, put the new one on, open the new oil bottles to get them ready, and then remove the fill cap and get my funnel ready. By that time, draining is done so zero time lost overall...just doing all the other stuff while it's draining...time management is key. Also, no time needed to get tools out, cleaned up, or put away since this valve opens tool-free.
Me too love them
Yep. And, while there is a small residual of old oil compared to a traditional drain plug I feel like it’s negligible if you properly agitated the oil anyways. IMO, the benefits far outweigh any potential issues.
@Maximer77 how do you agitate the oil? I'm planning on getting a fumoto for my f150 and my gfs tacoma
@@808Mark you just want to drive it a bit… maybe a quick drive around the block. You don’t need to get it to operating temp or anything… just enough to move the particulates which had settled.
I've had Fumoto valves on 4 of my vehicles, some of them for over 8+ years now. No issues to report and I'm all smiles. If the oil is hot (as it should be) the drain doesn't take any longer than normal. My oil is always drained by the time I have the filter changed. The amount of oil left in the pan will be determined by the shape of the pan itself, not the plug.
Oil temperature is a big factor here. With a Fumoto or equivalent I don't have any hesitation about starting the drain while the oil is hot, since it's much easier to direct the flow without splashing yourself. With a drain plug there's always that chance you manage to splash scalding hot oil on yourself.
No. you are wrong, the increased depth of the threads will leave more residual oil and sludge particlels in the bottom of the pan than just removing a normal oil drain plug.
@@GTVAlfaMan The thread depth is the same or nearly the same for every application I've used them.
@@Boostwerks
Yes, meaning you are not completely draining that 1/4-3/8” inches of oil remaining in the oil pan because the Fumoto device is installed.
@@GTVAlfaMan lol. Do you not comprehend what I'm telling you? Again, the threaded portion of the valve does not protrude past the pan threads. I'd attach a picture for you if I could.
Action cam, perfect. I can only imagine how many action cam have been used around the house.
We use them on heavy diesel, Cat c12, Cummins ISM/ ISX.. fishing a drain plug out of 10 gallons of hot oil sucks ass, especially when they're brass plugs. Magnet can barely pick up the ferrous ones, they're heavy af. Plus you have to take oil samples, it just makes everything easier.
Just gonna say I hate it on cat equipment throughout all the oil changes the stupid valve ends up going bad and equipment will be out of oil in the yard we ended up just making a special plug and thrown it on
how does the valve go bad do the seals in the ball valve leak or something seems like it would take forever for an oil leak like that to empty a drain pan.@@turtlezilla7371
I can see it being a good idea on heavy diesels. They also use like 5 gallons of oil I believe right? So the bit extra in the pan really is negligible
We switched to a quick disconnect style on all of our c15 and x15 engines. When using a pump to suck it out it really helps eliminate the mess and lifting. If you want to take a sample it’s still pretty easy too, we made an extra coupler with just a hose so you can drain some to flush it then grab your sample.
I like how you put the F.A.G. bearing box front and center. I'm guessing that wasn't an accident.
Have you not seen F.A.G bearings?
FAG bearings are world renown.
Better than timpkin
I work at FAG, kinda nice. Get bearings made in Germany, Either SKF or FAG
@@crazycoffee I definitely have, working an aerospace
I think it's fair to call the extra oil leftover negligible. The problem is there's always going to be oil leftover in the engine's oil passages and pump--probably more than 250ml. Even if you warm the engine up, the oil stuck in those passages will have contaminants. They won't necessarily settle at the bottom unless there are pieces of piston ring in there--modern oil is designed to suspend contaminants, I wouldn't expect there to be a significantly larger concentration on the bottom. I think the main concern is time--if you're patient, there's no harm done using the valve.
I'm starting to think maybe it's not such a bad thing... If by some terrible luck (or incompetent lube tech) you find yourself running the car after the oil has been drained, leaked, etc. without refilling, at least there will still be SOME oil in there, for whatever little that might be worth, better than bone dry.
I got one from a junkyard and put it on my baja. I like it, I’m not too concerned about the time to drain and one really nice thing I’ve noticed is it makes it wayyyyy easier to partially drain your oil.
Whether it’s for an additive or just because you overfilled it’s a huge help there. I’m going to start putting my drivers side up on a ramp when I’m changing oil though, I had no idea the oil pan retains so much even on a regular drain. Thanks Net!
They're fantastic. Unlike this dude's bashing of them, none of mine extend into the pan at all. I don't mind waiting 15 minutes for the oil to drain.
I’ve had a fumoto valve on my car for 6 years, no leaks or anything. I change my oil every 3k-4k miles. It’s probably not recommended for every car, but I’ve been happy with it.
yeah, it is a bit slow but, no mess and no over or under tightened drain bolt.
yes best type of video right before bed
This
I’ve got a fumoto valve on my Crown Vic and I love it. I think the design of the oil pan has a lot to do with it too. I put 6 qts in and I get 6 qts out every time. Makes oil changes a snap. I’ll be keeping it.
When I use jackstands to do an oil change, the engine is tilted back so it drains most of that extra oil out anyway. The fumoto valve would make less since for Netgear since he has Quickjacks which keep the engine level with the ground. To each their own I guess
I use my raceramps as well, I'll probably use them more for pil changes now tbh
Those lifting level could counter that by *slightly*, and I mean, slightly blocking up the front side of the jack points so you're doing a lift version of a Carolina Squat.
But... for simplicity and far less dicking around, advantage: Team Jackstands!
I had a fumoto valve on my old BRZ. It was admittedly slower than using a normal drain plug, but it doesn't drain as slow as it did in this video, probably because of the fact that it's cold oil. I'd probably run a No-spill kit next time. I used to sell them for the heavy trucks, like cummins and caterpillar powered Kenworths. It's a bit better at draining than the fumoto
Getting the oil hot really helps. But since I do my changes in the garage the valve does make it a little easier to not make a mess. Having said that, I would usually open the oil and then get the filter swapped. By that time it's mostly already out anyway.
Even at a tilt some of that oil will stay. If it’s really something someone doesn’t like you can always sacrifice a bit of oil to wash the pan out every few changes if it’s a concern.
I like to throw a few ounces in after it is all drained to rinse out some of the nooks and crannies since i always have extra in a 5-quart jug anyway.
Yeah I thought flushing with the new oil was standard practice. It also means you don't have to wait forever for every last drip to stop. Seems a lot of people in the comments for this video don't do that at all.
@@ashchaya7676never heard of anyone wasting good oil to rinse a tiny bit of extra oil out of the sump.
@@JunkCCCP It's not a waste when you think about what it does. Any really nasty shit that might be in your oil will be right at the bottom. That's what you're leaving behind when you don't flush. I'm fine with spending the extra $3 to do this.
@@ashchaya7676 nah bro its a waste. If there's some solid crap left over either it will stay at the bottom of the pan or the filter will catch it.
As far as the slow draining, it’s pretty quick when the oil is hot like you suggested earlier. I was hesitant to put one on my vehicles because I hate adding a point of failure. But after 3yrs on one of mine, it’s pretty awesome and I have 0 issues with it. After doing many oil analysis’s, the difference between before and after installation of the valve regarding your concern about residual oil left over was nothing. Driving conditions cause more of a change in the analysis than that did. If you’ve ever taken your car to a dealer or somewhere else for an oil change, they likely don’t even wait till it’s dripping, so that’s a moot point there.
Nice to see your perspective. My only complaint is the slow drain. But I love the neatness and the not having to torque the drain plug or replace a crush washer every time.
Is the pan at the same angle as it would be in the vehicle? I change mine on ramps or jackstands and the angle is probably quite a bit different on the engine at that point than what looks to be perfectly level on that stand so maybe there isn't that much left in the pan in the real world oil change?
I had a random petcock on a G35 I bought from a insurance auction(pre slideshows), drained pretty quickly when the oil was hot. I think the biggest thing to speed it up is always taking off the oil cap so the air can fill the crank case instead it pulling a vacuum. Hope to see more garage vids in the future!
I love the fumoto valve. You wouldn't have to struggle removing the plug like you did here. Also wouldn't have the mess either. No chance of of stripping the threads/developing a leak. Easy to get test samples. Just attach the vinyl tube to the valve and straight into an empty oil container. No mess! Not sure about this particular oil pan but check that the threads are the same length as the stock drain plug so it doesn't protrudevinto the pan butbis flush with yhe bottom. Also for this pan you should definitely angle the car to get more out.
I've had one on my 2005 Jeep TJ 4.0L for 15 years after installing a skid plate that limited access to reach the drain plug.
Also have one on my 2013 Abarth 500. Never a problem and enjoy having them
I suppose if you are using some sort of lift that keeps the pan level, and not getting the oil up to operating temp, then this test is accurate. But when I do my oil changes, I jack the car up slightly higher on one side to force the oil to the side where the valve is. And the oil is hot. Drains quick. Hot oil flows much, much faster than cold, as you know. But it would be a lot more effort to heat the oil up first to the appropriate temp for this type of test.
yeah, i use them they are slower than a drain plugs but not this slow and it is way less messy. and my car is tilted towards drain as most home mechanics would be.
Instead of tilting the pan you should have pulled out the fumoto valve out to actually see how much more oil you could get with the drain plug. I had these valves on approximately 40 pieces of equipment and never had any issues with the oil hot as it should be when you change the oil. You can drain your oil when it is extremely hot without burning yourself like you would with a drain plug.
I put the Fumoto valve on my Acura TL as it has an aluminum oil pan and I didn't want it to get stripped out again. The dealership stripped it out some years ago and it was 4-500 dollars to get it fixed.
I am able to reach under the car and open the valve without even jacking the car up, and while it is draining I will then jack the car up in a way that hopefully more of the oil gets drained out. I could do an entire oil change without jacking the car up at all if I had to.
It is a good product in its construction and materials, but the extra oil not being drained out and the slow draining are legitimate criticisms. I would only recommend one to someone who is trying to make oil changes easier (live in an apartment complex perhaps) or is trying to ensure that an aluminum pan does not get ruined.
Good video, on a legit topic. Thanks dude.
I have used a Mityvac 7201 since 2016. Works great on trans & diffs fill & extraction. I made custom hoses and ends for my specific needs.
Bicycle pumped oil change FTW! Did this about as long, because I've been a VW TDI cultist since 2006.
Topside only oil+-cartridge filter change in 10 minutes? Yes, PLEASE!
I gotta save up all that time saved for all the other things that go wrong or need fixing!
I have used them in the past. What I liked about it was I could change the oil on my car without jacking it up. I could slide a pan under and reach the valve with no issue. I didn't care how long it took. I opened the valve then did other stuff and came back later.
It was so slow because the oil was fresh, I have used that valve for a while now and it drains pretty quick because the oil gets thinner over time. I also usually drain it while warm. Doesn't even take 5 minutes. Seeing how much oil was left in after the plug is out really surprised me. That's an engineering issue
I have run these Fumoto valves for years and yes, they are very slow draining compared to just removing the plug. I just let it start draining and go back inside the house for a half hour or so. It really does save me from making a mess.
It drains a lot quicker when the engine is warm. I'd say it's a non-issue when the oil is hot. Lot less likely to burn your hand as well because you never get it on you like you often do with the drain plug.
These valves are in a category of needs I never (still don’t) thought I needed.
I use the “Valvomax”, it’s a stainless ball valve with a screw on cap. Insert connector and opens the ball valve to drain through tube. Has been almost as fast as a drain plug.
I have it on all of my vehicles, had it in my motorcycle too, no more washers and torque drain bolts
With the Fumoto, I can change my oil with a phillips and flat head screw driver to open up the plastic shield which is nice. I change my oil early and often so the bit of left over isn't a big issue.
So you need two screwdrivers instead of one socket?
And I only need a 14mm spanner, your point is?
he only needs tools for the shield but the fumoto is way cleaner than oil change with a drain plug.@@CollectorCarFeed
@@CollectorCarFeedso you need to use one socket where with the fumoto valve I don't need any tools? Pull the plastic clip, open the valve, no tools.
I have used a few and love them. Yeah they drain slow but it's alot cleaner....and if you are doing your oil changes every 3-5k then it shouldn't be an issue...and settled crud is coming out at the start. If it's a concern, you can always remove the valve yearly to check. Other benefits are partial drains for samples, and reduced likely hood of damaging the pan or drain bolt.
I have one on my Forester and will put one on my Crosstrek when it gets to 6000 miles. Draining right after driving makes it empty much quicker. The best part of the change is slipping a tube over the nipple, other end of the tube into the used oil jug, flipping the switch, and having everything just go right into the bottle. No dumping of a drain pan, and no fishing out a hot, nasty plug to then clean off. While it drains, I change the filter. Go back under, close the switch, remove the tube, and that's it.
Seen em on generators for my whole career,theyve been around for probably 30-40yrs before that.
Cant say ive really had an issue with one,other than the factory not tightening one enough.
And we use vacuum pumps to drain oil anyways.
Thanks for going the extra length to set up an experiment but when you change your oil you're supposed to do so with the oil warm so it will be less viscous and therefore less likely to take forever to drain and if you jack the car up on its 2 front mounting points the oil pan is at an angle which negates the leftover oil issue.
I use the Fumoto I change oil in my garage for our three vehicles and sometimes it’s a perfect storm when you rip the drain plug out and the oil hits your catch pan like putting a spoon under a faucet.
I tried restoring an abused 250k miles Toyota engine with BG solvents and ran a fumoto valve on it and changed fluids often - then went to pull the drain pan on a service and the bottom of the engine was filled with something that looked like stuck mud! Seeing this makes me rethink the choice to put this valve on high mile engines before engine cleaning and checking the drain pan first!!
This comparison is like watching someone "test" how well a Winter coat functions during the Summer.
I've used Fumoto valves in my vehicles for years. With and without the tube, they drain identical to the OEM drain plug every time...with one caveat - no socket/wrench required, so I get an oil change accomplished more quickly.
The left over oil doesn't really matter since most people who keep up with maintenance usually change there oil to early anyway. As for the valve being to slow also a non issue because first thing i do is open the valve then go take off the filter, grab the new filter and prefill it and put it on and by then the car is drained. Close the valve and top her off. Instead of wasting time messing around with the oil drain plug that mysteriously got tighter since the last change. You can spend the time messing around with the oil filter that mysteriously went from 1/2 a turn after gasket touching it to tool tight. Also a plus of the fumoto is it never makes a mess.
I ve used this valve and a different one for years no problems love them
Old used oil is thinner so if you change it right after driving it and jacking the front up tilts the pan back a bit you won’t have much left !
Big advantage of these valves is if you have to get an oil change at a garage, they are not using an impact wrench to strip your drain plug threads. or if you have teenage kids they are not over or under tightening drain plug
i put them on two of my cars it is a bit slow, but I park on a sloped driveway so more will come out and let it drain a while with a warm engine. makes it foolproof for people overtightening or under tightening pan bolt.
they make a bunch of different models the newer ones are a bit faster flow with a bigger hole through the valve you can get short versions to not stick down too much or right angle and you can put a hose on to drain right into a bottle. you can buy different protective latches to keep handle from accidently opening but it already has a built-in notch to hold handle closed.
If you have a fumoto and you take it to a quick lube, they will unscrew it to drain your oil lmao
Gshock squares are my fav. I have a 5600MS that I've been wearing since 2010 when I went into the Marines.
This is also why i like sucking the oil out because it gets everything and you dont have to jack up the car
but if oil filter is on bottom of car you have to lift it up anyway unless you are lucky enough to have a top filter or real easy front of engine model.
Not sure if this even is beneficial but usually when I drain the oil and it has stopped dripping, I pour a bit of fresh oil in from the top and more dark used oil starts to come out of the pan again. After that has drained I then put the plug back, otherwise I'm left with oil in an opened canister that I have no use for anyways.
Fantastic test. Used one of these on my STI when I changed oil every 2k (big turbo, e85). Biggest benefit IMO is being able to run a drain hose directly into an empty jug. Don't have one on my current car and probably won't get one again. Just not a big deal.
Love em. I can change the oil in 5 mins in my daily with it. Had it on my Subaru for a lot of years and my metro.
The guy proved the value of the Fumoto by simply watching how difficult the regular rain plug was to remove, lol.
I put it on my car once. It was an ordeal given the limited space I had to put it on. But I was excited for how easy the next oil change was gonna be.
Next oil change runs around and it’s time to change 7 qts. It took maybe 45 minutes to an hour to drain all the oil out. I gave up and took it off. I’ve got no problem with the drain bolt now.
if you get surprised about the amount of oil trapped inside the pan with the fumoto valve installed, I hope you never figure out the amount left when a dealer technician does the oil change. I used to work in a dealership and saw how fast the technician removed and put back the drain plug, not once, not twice but all the time. The best practice for this kind of matter is to do the oil change between 3500 - 4000 miles, you won't have anything to worry about.
I’ve got one of these valves on my car. Never had a problem with it. The oil is draining so slow because it’s room temperature. Hot oil drains so much quicker. I always change my oil hot so that all the crap in the system is suspended and runs out. I have a lift so I also do an under vehicle inspection in grease wherever there is a fitting while it drains. Nice video👍
I blame Puccii if my Olds Shaft fails daddy Netgear lmao
when oil is more warm it goes faster from pan for sure
I hope you do a video with driving4answers
Something else to keep in mind is if you're changing your oil in your driveway your car is gonna be up on ramps or on jacks so you got a rear-ward rake going on. If it's on a lift or over a trench though it's going to be EXACTLY like this experiment.
Firstly like you said the oil needs to be hot. Secondly if you where changing the oil on a level like on a lift where the car is level then yea there would be quite a lot of oil left. But if you where a DIY and only had the front of the car lifted high enough to get under, then it might just be the same with the drain plug (level surface) vs. Fumoto (one side of the car raised). Opposite of the drain hole.
Goddamn it i never knew the oil drain dilemma was real. My old man always taught me to use a high pressure air hose to get most of the residue off but now seeing this, it's way worse than i thought.
I'm sure this doesn't apply to your WRX, but some engines are designed to allow oil extraction through the dipstick tube. When this is the case, it's the fastest way to remove the oil, and more oil comes out (the "lip" at the drain bolt doesn't retain oil in the pan). Unfortunately it seems to be restricted to some German cars.
Would’ve been a better comparison had the oil been heated up to 100+ degrees. Anyone who’d take the extra step of buying this valve at least knows that the motor and oil should be hot at the time of the oil change.
This. I have no complaints with my Fumoto valves. I even have them on 2 race cars. Makes it super simple for taking a sample, or removing oil from an overfill.
Solution looking for a problem.
Fumotos are awesome when doing frequent oil changes but don't have a garage or getting your toolbox out is just too much hassle. Put a fumoto valve on family cars, change the oil on mom's car when I visit without having to bring my tools. On a road trip and doing thousands of miles, pull the valve in a walmart parking lot and drain it into a gallon jug, and drop the waste oil off on the spot.
What I do like is... No oil drain pan need with the fumoto valves because of how slow it goes. You can drain directly into a empty 5 quart oil jug. Which means less mess for me trying to empty my oil onto a container afterwards. One downside? The valve can get dirty from normal driving specially if living in dusty areas of the world(like I do). I usually will spray parts cleaner or a bit of WD40 onto it before opening it up. So if yours comes with the plastic clip/cover make sure to always put it back on when done. Mine didn't come with one unfortunately.
Oil pans are different in different cars & these results will vary a little from each. I've been using mine for 10 years in one of my cars and have been pretty happy with it. Yes it is slow but with the added benefit of less mess in my book. I go have breakfast/lunch or do something else while it drains.
On another note... I want to modify the valve on the thread side and make a cut or hole to allow a little bit more oil out. 🤔
It doesn’t take 7 minutes for my 9 qt Sequoia to drain, but the oil is usually hot. The crosstrek maybe takes five minutes? I’m usually dealing with the oil filters as it drains, so it’s a non issue. I probably have 100k miles in total on both Fumoto’s and no issues. In all honesty, I’m surprised the shop didn’t lose the clips when I do have someone else do the oil change. One of the main reasons I bought them was because I was worried about one of the drain plugs being inadvertently stripped and the fact that half the time I’d forget the new crush washer. This makes it easy and being able to use a hose can be helpful. Also, you no longer have to worry about getting that hot oil on n your hands when you remove the drain plug. I’m sure some of you never get oil on your hands and if so, I tip my hat to you. I, however am not usually that lucky.
Keep in mind that oil flows a lot quicker when hot. Doesnt change the fact that a fumoto is gonna be slow as balls. Also, short of sticking your engine in a steam cleaner, your never gonna get all the old oil out. But that stuff will get diluted in new oil easily. As long as you change the oil and filter frequently I wouldn't trip about it
I use a fumoto on my truck with an aftermarket skid plate. Instead of it spilling all over the inside of the skid plate i can use tubing and direct it all into the oil catch pan with no mess. Love the fumoto valve
Ive been using it for awhile. For fumoto, you have to warm up the engine. Its a shit ton better than stripping.... also i use a tube.... drive around the block warm level and done
10 years i. My TL 350k miles and now my pilot at 90k and 55k in my RLX.... i rather do this than strip. Warm it up
how is a drive around the block any different than idling for a minute?
@scottwell5701 well i was exaggerating, just warm it up decently....
Use it on two vehicles. Drain when its hot shoots out no issue throw a 1/4 qt to clean pan. Good too go
Using the tube extension will help the drain speed some.
Not sure about the subaru oil drain plug orientation but I jack up my 240 on the oposite side to help drain more oil out. I also pour in some fresh oil while the drian plug is still open to help flush some out. I buy the 5 quart jugs so i know about home much will be ledt over so I pour that in once i get to the dribbles.
Besides all the other problems with that valve, oil pans are dirty places. I feel like that valve would get clogged if there was any debris or sludge in the oil. Cool test Netgear. Thanks bro.
This honestly makes me feel way better about using an extractor. I was always worried about oil remaining in the pan. After seeing this, I'm pretty sure my extractor is getting just as much if not a more oil out, every change.
Besides the time to drain. Arent you supposed to jack up the front end of most sedans/coupes to make sure the oil drain correctly? I own an 01 civic and the manual says to jack front end up to make oil pan drain hole be at the bottom of the engine without and angle.
I feel like these valves are for convenience for diy oil changes in your driveway. When people bring these to the shop it takes up significantly more time to do their oil change.
I use them on my semi, makes oil changes a breeze, and no more stripped out drain plugs. Never an issue in all of the years I have used them.
I just got one because its o-ring seals better than my drain plug w/crush washer 😅
I have one on two of my cars -- yes it's slower, but no slower than it takes me to change the oil filter. When you have to change the oil every six weeks, and have a giant skid plate between you and the plug, you need something to make draining easier. I put one on my truck to make draining 15 qts more manageable. It's great for me, but not necessarily for everyone.
Can't wait for Netgear to get a whiteboard and explain to us tuning, torque and horsepower figures and curves (& graphs)... have the series called Netgear Explains Sh*t!! 😅
Engineering explained but for extreme autists
FYI if that's a Spectra pan it has more threads than an oem Subaru pan to prevent stripping, there is a welded on bung that extends inside the pan that isn't on the factory pan which will hold more oil with the plug removed.
How about carefully grinding down the length of the threads so the threads don't protrude so far into the oil pan allowing more oil to drain out? Any reason not to do that?
Thank you. This is good info. I was considering the valve for on some of my vehicles.
I appreciate the bearing placement. We used to have that brand stocked at work. I have no idea what they were actually used for, other than to give to mechanics and say "idk why, but this reminded me of you" lmao
I would like to know if thats the correct angle for the drain pan as it would be in the car.
This is reassuring for our 2 vehicles with fumotos. Plus i do these two vehcles on ramps with front raised. Not too corcerned about residual oil as i do mine often enough. Not sure fumoto valve causes more sidual oil though.
they 100% cause more residual oil. I proved it.
Good info. Now the question is how deep the dipstick reaches from the very bottom. Probably, it shows the "no oil mark" when that undrained oil is still in the pan
Definitely a niche for some specific oil pan drain designs, but definitely beneficial for drain plugs that pour straight vertically, I have one on my cummins and it makes oil changes a breeze. It's good if you like taking oil samples for testing, but even keeping it, you can always just screw it out like a normal plug, but definitely not necessary for every use case. Love the vid, Netgear and Feed!
Well it's better than the gush of hot oil when you remove the plug. If the oil was hot would you have the same results?
The drain plug on my 22 Explorer points directly at the driver front tire, not angled down. The 90 deg. fumoto made catching the oil way easier. The leftover oil in the pan is a shit design by the manufacturer of the pan! As you said, slightly warmed the drain time is not an issue. I would definitely buy Fumoto valves again
You should boil the oil hot enough and do the drain test again and compare this cold drain test vs hot drain
Don't forget oil drains faster when it is hot you're doing it with brand new oil that hasn't been broken down from age and it's room temperature.
This is why I use an oil suction pump through the dipstick hole so no messing with the oil drain and you get most of the oil out the pan
What model of the oil suction pump do you use? Could you post a link? Thx
I don't know whether they've changed or not but the valve on my car (same P/N I'm pretty sure) but it was never *that* slow, regardless, I don't think it's an issue as long as you aren't trying to bang the oil change out ASAP - just turn the valve and let it go whilst doing something else.
Id call it negligible! Pour a little new oil in and you can get a lot of that old oil out.
I change my oil warm, so it still drains extremely fast.
My only concern would be it sticking out, so i only put it on vehicles where this isnt a concern. The original fumoto is only a hair long than an oil plug.
I use them and love them.
Good video
On the Killer B pan the value sits straight out to the side. I've never seen it on an oem pan. The fact that it points down in an angle makes it less efficient for draining.
You gotta squeeze the oil pan to get all the juice