@@10mm was there any issue at all using the 1st gen TV cable? I don’t have the normal VE throttle bracket, just a small piece securing the throttle cable sleeve.
Hey I have a quick question why exactly do you have to swap the TV cable bracket to the First Gen style? Is it because it has more throw or less throw?
Three key things about an automatic transmission lasting a long time he is very good quality transmission fluid and also service it when it needs a good quality shift kit OK and don’t shift safe from second gear to high gear onOn a heavy load
@@10mm thanks man. Also, I'm about to put my new cooler lines on today. They are just like yours. Should i just put that o-ring in the fittings for the front cooler? Or should I try mine without it and hope it doesn't leak?
How to build 47RH full: ruclips.net/video/_szx_BothWc/видео.html Small build up mistake fix: ruclips.net/video/_Qw9u7mNOoQ/видео.html How to tear down 47RH full: ruclips.net/video/PCgk0XtWJlI/видео.html
Thanks for subscribing! I'm glad it was helpful. I wanted lock up and a stronger transmission so I built the 47 myself. I made a build series on that if you're interested.
Hey bud, yes I have watched the 47rh build series! It’s a bit out of my comfort zone lol. I finally got my truck on the road and I found my o/d is intermittent ( I have it rigged up to a switch as well). Lock up is non existent. I have the patc connector that isn’t a direct fit, but looks like it should make contact fine. What issues were you having with yours when you were using that connector? Cheers.
How much did you have to shorten the driveshaft? I’m getting ready to do this swap in my 2WD and my understanding is that both transmissions are the same length, but it’s the deeper adapter plate that causes it to move rearward
Great video I'm doing just the same on my first gen and I want to do my overdrive and lockout manual shift too but I don't exactly how to install the switches I don't know from the plug where to ruan the cables would you do an other diagram. Thanks
First, thanks for subscribing I really appreciate that! So with the 3 pin valve body connection, the front one (closest to bellhousing) needs to be switched to ground to engage overdrive, the middle pin is 12V, and the rear pin is switched to ground to lock the converter. If you need another plug, I found one on a gasser dodge AC clutch in the junkyard. I hope that helps.
Thanks for the video. I’m going to swap out my nv4500 for a 47rh in a ford van and the custom line stuff definitely helped.
glad it helped my man
@@10mm was there any issue at all using the 1st gen TV cable? I don’t have the normal VE throttle bracket, just a small piece securing the throttle cable sleeve.
@@johnrose5417 1st gen cable works just fine. I made a video on how to adjust the linkages too if you need it
That intro was hilarious
Good old Dodge and their sheetmetal screws. Thanks for subscribing I appreciate that!
The self tapper part is accurate 🤣
Gotta love Dodge haha, thanks for watching!
@@10mmChryslers rusty fangs 🤣
Hey I have a quick question why exactly do you have to swap the TV cable bracket to the First Gen style? Is it because it has more throw or less throw?
I'm not sure on the throw, but it fit right with all the VE throttle linkage stuff
You do know PDD Makes a super nice transmission line kit I used them when I had an auto
Hey man! Yeah I did see that, but I didn't like the price and wanted braided stainless.
Three key things about an automatic transmission lasting a long time he is very good quality transmission fluid and also service it when it needs a good quality shift kit OK and don’t shift safe from second gear to high gear onOn a heavy load
thanks for the input man
Still running good? How has your transmission held up?
Drives good tows good, I'd recommend better quality cooler line material than I used.
Do you have a part number for the center bearing?
I'll take a look tomorrow
I think it's a Spicer 210866-1X
@@10mm thanks man. Also, I'm about to put my new cooler lines on today. They are just like yours. Should i just put that o-ring in the fittings for the front cooler? Or should I try mine without it and hope it doesn't leak?
@@decentgarage Of course always happy to help. So the little front cooler needed O-rings to seal for me.
@@10mm I'll probably just throw orings in there for good measure
How to build 47RH full: ruclips.net/video/_szx_BothWc/видео.html
Small build up mistake fix: ruclips.net/video/_Qw9u7mNOoQ/видео.html
How to tear down 47RH full: ruclips.net/video/PCgk0XtWJlI/видео.html
Great video
Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed it, I got more 1st gen videos in the works feel free to subscribe
How much did you have to shorten the drive shaft I didn’t see it in the video
I think about 1.25" I thought I had it in there somewhere
Tethlon tape would and should have worked too
Thanks for the input man!
Why did you pull the PDD trans out? I’m doing a 47rh swap right now this video was very helpful thanks!
Thanks for subscribing! I'm glad it was helpful. I wanted lock up and a stronger transmission so I built the 47 myself. I made a build series on that if you're interested.
Hey bud, yes I have watched the 47rh build series! It’s a bit out of my comfort zone lol. I finally got my truck on the road and I found my o/d is intermittent ( I have it rigged up to a switch as well). Lock up is non existent. I have the patc connector that isn’t a direct fit, but looks like it should make contact fine. What issues were you having with yours when you were using that connector? Cheers.
How much did you have to shorten the driveshaft? I’m getting ready to do this swap in my 2WD and my understanding is that both transmissions are the same length, but it’s the deeper adapter plate that causes it to move rearward
Correct, the adapter plate is thicker to allow room for the locking converter. I shortened mine 1.25"
I forgot to ask you about the manual switches what could happen if I leave the over drive switch on all the time.
You definitely don't want to do that, that'd be like lugging a manual truck around in 5th gear.
I see. Thanks for your time and help
@@germanortega978 Yeah man of course!
1 more question, is any way to test the solenoids to see if they are working without removing them?
@@germanortega978 hmmm you might be able to hear them click if you energize them
Great video I'm doing just the same on my first gen and I want to do my overdrive and lockout manual shift too but I don't exactly how to install the switches I don't know from the plug where to ruan the cables would you do an other diagram. Thanks
First, thanks for subscribing I really appreciate that! So with the 3 pin valve body connection, the front one (closest to bellhousing) needs to be switched to ground to engage overdrive, the middle pin is 12V, and the rear pin is switched to ground to lock the converter. If you need another plug, I found one on a gasser dodge AC clutch in the junkyard. I hope that helps.
Eaton would be cool or the most popular way is a NV5600
Yeah I don't know what the best option is. So far so good with the auto
Why did you change it out and what did you take out 46rh
I wanted a stronger transmission and lock up
I hope you are doing good. I have a question. Do you know how to properly adjust the kickdown cable after the swap?
Hey man thanks for subscribing I appreciate that. I don't remember what exactly I did but I followed the process in the FSM
FSM? what is that.?
@@germanortega978 Factory Service Manual it's an awesome resource. Highly recommend you pick one up.
here man, I made a video about it: ruclips.net/video/DLts1oEnlwo/видео.html
What state you in? I feel I’ve seen this truck before
Wish you hadn't skipped over all the most important parts of the install as this video would have been far more helpful
@19:27 "I like manual control over stuff" *meanwhile continues to use automatic trans*