THD has the best quality pin that is designed for the 1st gen VE pump and geniune Bosch spring I think I paid less than a $100 for it and it runs great
I got some performance tips from a Cummins mechanic. The first two things were to set the valve lash 2 thousands tighter. 18 thousands for exhaust 8 for intake. We advanced the timing a couple of degrees. Those helped but next came a Banks exhaust and 16cm turbo housing. The biggest gains were the fuel metering pin and the 3200 rpm Governor spring. The 5.9 B engines were designed for industrial applications and so the Governor starts to cut back fuel delivery when it gets up close to the designed maximum rpm. You’re making less HP and torque at 2600 rpm than at 16-1800 rpm. Ran the early 250hp 5.9 Bs in duel marine applications and. They were OK but Smokey. When the 300hp version was released Cummins said they were too strong for us. I looked at the specifications and saw the only difference was a higher pressure fuel system and 200 more rpm on the top end. 2600 vs 2800. The weight was the same. That’s what went into the next boat and it made a world of difference. Also a cleaner running engine smoke wise. As subsequent models came out the horsepower continued to climb. RD
Early fuel cut is to creep up and not exceed the limmit if a drive shaft snaps under load at full tilt. My 91.5 auto stock + 16cm ND thermal management full wrap( down pipe to head bolts) made 491.0@1846wheel tq 178.3@1976wheel hp and 45whp90wtq on the governor @92.5mph
A trick I use to break free Allen bolts is to use a Crescent Wrench. Stick the Allen Wrench end into the hole in the side of the Crescent. It won't slip out, you have a lot of leverage, and you can use your free hand to keep downward pressure on the Allen Wrench so it won't strip.
Thanks again Tim for a great video for us hobbyist mechanics. A problem I ran into, that I hadn’t realized, was someone previously had done the “1/8 in timing bump” and my pump was rotated towards the cylinder head allowing for zero room to even see the back Allen cover bolt. after hours of scratching my head and figuring out how to loosen the pump from the timing case I was able to get to it. Unfortunately at this point I began rushing and missed your warning about the “top hat spring” …. It went flying…. I was actually able to make one from a pen spring and it seems to be working just fine for now until my replacement spring comes in the mail.
Hi Tim, I watched your video numerous times and finally got the nerve to tackle the governor spring. wasn't too bad of a job. but the results are amazing, the pickup and go is really fantastic. I wish I did this when the truck was new, what a difference. thanks for making that video. anyone can follow those directions.
I'm midway through this process. One difference with a manual transmission the low pressure supply line from the fuel filter crosses over the throttle assembly close enough that it has to be removed to pull the assembly up off the shaft. On an automatic it routes around the throttle position sensor. You'll need a 14mm for the top nut and a 17mm for the bottom and avoid twisting the fuel line. I'm waiting on a crowfoot flare nut set to be delivered so I can continue.
@@decentgarage Hours of research for a replacement line for when I inevitably twist and kink the currently installed one leads me to believe mine *might* be a one-off replacement or non-Cummins part. The only OEM replacements I could track down route around the throttle assembly as yours does in the video. Not sure. Thanks again.
This is by far the best of these instructions I've seen. Thank you for putting it together. Is there enough room to completely remove the fuel screw if that would help simplify the removal and reinstallation of the top half of the pump?
@@decentgarage Ah, I misunderstood that part then. I thought you were lifting up on the top half because the bolt kept bumping into the fuel screw as you were trying to remove it.
Could you do a video on the other tweaks to the pump that you mention at the beginning of the video? There are so many different sources for info out there on these trucks that it's confusing. You have a knack for presenting the information clearly and concisely in a way that makes it easy to understand and emulate.
Love your videos my truck is a 1993 dually with a 5 speed. Want to end up putting around 300-400 hp at my rear wheels. What I want to put on my truck is either 5x12 or 5x14 ducky injectors. 3200 gov spring THD fuel pin, intercooler upgrade kit and BHAF intake kit and either a hx35 wastegated or a 60 mm turbo upgrade. I can get everything off of the Hungary diesel except the turbos and the injectors and will be using ur code.
Did you ever have any issues with the throttle shaft spinning on you while you torqued down the nut? Mine has spun on both my pumps and I haven’t figured out a fool-proof way to stop it from spinning. Any advice on that?
He should also advise to change the Throttle Shaft O-Ring, as if yours is like mine that O-ring has been on that shaft for 40 years (1991 pre 1991.5). You can purchase the expensive ones or get the Harborfreight O-ring kit (must be over a hundred O-rings in that kit) red and blue boxes for about 10.00 each one metric the other inch. I hate leaks and don't have many. Tappet cover gasket, lots of parts have to come off to get to that. I will say, decent Garage has lots of GREAT videos of how to do things. Thanks for all your videos, my next project will be Ball Joints. There is also a way to reassemble without moving the power screw. using a piece of wire to hold the lever forward against the spring pressure. when you put the top back on. it works just need to be careful and not in a hurry and do not force anything it goes in real easy. That way I didn't have to worry about a run-a-way and once I figured out the indexing, it started right up and of course the indexing was off a tooth. fixed that and no issues. Again thank you for the videos they are so very helpful (and I know quite a bit about these old trucks) never too late to learn new stuff
How big of a difference is the Fuel Pin and 3200 Spring to seat horsepower? Will it be one of those things I had wished I did 20 years ago? Guess on horsepower and mileage if you keep your foot out of it. Thanks for the time. Love your videos.
Hi nice video , my 12v has not throttle at all zero rpm change when any lever is moved , except for the shut off , do you think the spring could be broke? Thanks greg
Interesting. Did you buy it this way or did this start after installing the gov spring? My guess would be that the throttle lever is not pushed down onto the splines on the throttle shaft
Excellent video , off topic question would you know were to find a upper control arm for a 92 d250 I have looked everywhere in my area including a couple websites and no luck, any feedback will be appreciated
I didn't have to adjust mine. I have done that on one of my previous first gens but don't have a video on it. Next time I have to do it i'll film it for sure.
Great video, coming friday i'm picking up my d250 Cummins. It came a long way from Florida to the Netherlands. Btw, i've subscribed. Really like you're channel.
I installed the the 3200rpm gov spring and a bd diesel fuel pin. My truck idles very high and white smoke out the exhaust do you know what the problem is? Is my indexing off?
I need some advice here. I just put the 2300 spring in. When I cracked loose the top bolt the spring came back around and snapped back into its original spot. It bumped it loose before I could see which mark it was lined up with with. I just eye ball it to the 2nd mark twords the front of the truck. It started up and runs but the idle is way low. Did I screw it up?
Was your indexing still lined up on the second tick mark? I’m still troubleshooting this damn truck. I put in a 3200 spring just now. I’ll let you know how it goes.
Hey, I have a problem! I did everything exactly like you said; I got a BD spring and the instructions say to unscrew the max fuel screw until you can see the O ring before removing the top of the pump. Truck won't fire, just turns and turns. I've adjusted the indexing, pretty sure it's right. I even put a jumper wire between the FSS and the positive terminal on the battery to make sure the solenoid is open. Is it possible there's air in the lines? Any help appreciated.
Could be air in the lines but I've never had that issue when doing this. Make sure theax fuel screw was backed out enough so that it isn't protruding in to the pump top. This makes it clear the fulcrum lever. I would also triple check indexing. Also, did you turn the max fuel screw back in to where it was prior to pulling the pump top?
@@decentgarage I forgot to mark the max screw before I unscrewed it. So I have tried a few different positions. I barely cracked the nut that holds it in place, so I can't be more than 2-3 revolutions off. I have a picture of the indexing and will double check today. I screwed the max fuel screw back in after I screwed the pump top down.
Great channel, Eric from THD pointed me your way... of course I didn’t see the 10% discount until after I ordered! I’ve got a 3200 Spring and a fuel pin on the way from him. Anxious to install. Tried sending you a message, but can’t find a way to do it via RUclips. Have a few questions for ya about particulars if you have time? Shoot me a message here and I’ll give ya my email. Thanks!
Jake, there isn't a way to message through RUclips. It's unfortunate but I want to help out. Find me on Instagram @decent_1st_gen or Tim Stevenson on Facebook.
Thank you for your great videos and the info that you share with us. I just wanted to ask your opinion, I have a 1993 6bt Cummins that is very slow (even my grandma can run faster 😄) I'm thinking to install a 3800rpm governor spring and the THD fuel pin just to start. Whithout breaking the bank, what it will be the best next mods you'll suggest I need to do. Cheers.
Tim, any idea what size the bolts happen to be (allen head bolts) are for the pump? Not to remove (wrench size) but to replace? I have one that is stripped and am looking for them before I remove the stripped one. Thx! Great video.
Now if I can just find someone (beyond my ability) to remove the one stripped bolt I can then replace my gov. spring, fuel pin and install a new lift pump (all from THD)!
Great video - on the video where you replaced the Gov. spring, you were very careful to explain not to lose the connector and small spring to which the gov. spring attaches....the end closest to banjo bolts / aft side of pump. Well what might that part number be? Say some idiot did let that slippery sucker spring loose? Any ideas where to go to replace it? Thanks for great video and assistance ..
I have an intercooler 1993 bone stock with the H1C turbo. I just got the THD fuel pin and governor spring in the mail. I and wanting to upgrade the turbo to an HX35 but dont have one yet. Can I put this fuel pin and governor spring in with the H1C and not hurt my engine?
Hey Tim , I finally did the governor spring and fuel pin runs much better but now I have a leak from the side. Seems to be like an over flow plastic piece it drips diesel. By any chance would you know why or how this might happened? Seems like diesel mechanics don’t know the issue.
@@decentgarage thank you so much I took it to a shop here in California charged me 2300 and not even fix the problem I appreciate it so much !! Thank you for these videos!
Legit question for you sir. With your experience in these trucks, and knowing how it drove and responded & performed. How did you not pre emptively know it already had a gov spring installed in it before you pulled it apart??
Great question. The truck was owned by my uncle for years and years. He said he'd didn't think the gov spring had been done so I kind of just took his word. As far as being able to feel it or not, there are so many little adjustments you can make on these trucks that it's hard to pin down "how it feels" to one mod.
@@decentgarage Ok awesome. What’s the difference between the springs? Is it the weight of the spring/stiffness? I know with a stock spring it lines up with the second tick mark. Did you have to index your throttle differently with the 3200 spring, or are they similar lengths? Lastly, do you know which direction I’d have to turn the shaft to compensate for the length of the spring? Counter clockwise or clockwise (when looking down at the shaft)?
@@mementomori2353 the 3800 spring is stiffer and slightly longer. Some people trim it so it's the same length as the stock or 3200 spring and reindex back to the second mark. If you keep it the length it is you have to index it with more tension which I believe is counterclockwise but I could be mistaken.
Great question. It doesn't matter and it's much easier to do when the pump too is off so just do it when it's off. It's only an issue if you out the top back on without backing out the screw
hey brother! I was doing this exact modification and my last step was to tighten my bolt down to my throttle shaft. i tightened it to much and throttle shaft broke in half. I can not find the part number to that throttle shaft for the life of me. Would you be able to point me in the right direction by chance?
@@decentgarage Got the indexing thanks for the advice! Was able to drive it home from work, but it was super sluggish and wouldn't accelerate unless I did my best to get rpm by manual shift it (a518) would you say I need to turn the fuel screw in more?
Hey I was wondering, I already have installed 50hp injectors and have a 3200 govener spring that is ready to be installed and I want to get a new fuel pin and crank the fuel up, but my truck has the manuel getrag 360 and I don't want to tear it up, right now there's nothing wrong with it and I want to keep it that way even if it means leaving the power where its at, ive only had this truck for about 6 months and am new to diesle in general and don't really now what I'm doing, what would you suggestion be? Would the trans be okay with the upgrades or would I need to do something to the trans before all that?
Great question Blake. The answer is that your trans can handle any modifications you do, it is simply a matter of how you drive it. I could have 700 hp / 350 torque and as long as I drive it conservatively my stock transmission will stand a chance. Once you start hot rodding it or towing heavy you will run in to issues. I would say a 3200 gov spring and 50 hp injectors are fairly safe for your transmission though.
Likely needs the pump top resealed. I've never down it but heard it's not too hard. The hungry diesel sells the reseal kit. And remember you can use my promo code decent1stgen for 10% off.
I installed both Hungry Diesel Fuel pin and 3200 governor spring. After adjusting fuel screw, I was able to get it to started, but.....in test drive at higher RPMs, when I depress the clutch to shift (have 5spd Getrag), the engine rev'd up. Had to slow engine revs via braking. When I do not rev the engine, there was no problem. Any thoughts on what to do to keep the engine from reving up when I depress the clutch?
It sounds like you are close to runaway and may have the fuel screw turned in too much. This is called governor hang and is the step right before reaching runaway.
@@decentgarage I have adjusted the fuel screw such that, at the current screw setting, it runs well (except for problem described). When I back off the fuel screw half a turn, it runs very roughly, but still experiences the same problem of high revs. When I back it off another half turn, it will not start. Basically, I am unable to get the truck to run and not have the high rev issue. Considering just removing the 3200 governor spring and replacing it with the original. Ackkkk
@@decentgarage Wellllll I replaced the 3200 governor spring with the stock spring. Still has the Hungry Diesel fuel pin. Worked just fine. You may be correct on throttle indexing, but am just too dang frustrated. Now....tomorrow I will be installing the Diamond Eye Stainless Steel 4" Turbo-Back Exhaust - just watched you video. Thank you very much for responding.
@@jamesmayfield7135 Just take a braeak from it, do the exhaust and come back to it. My videos make it seem like i get everything right the first time but that is definitely not the case. I actually prefer when installs don't go perfect because that's when I learn how to diagnose the issue and I have to year things apart multiple times so it gives me repetitions.
@@decentgarage Thank you for the informative videos. I think you have some of the best tutorials for the 1st gens. You explain very well and in detail, keep on topic and no wasted time on intros.
Put a 3200 rpm governor spring in my Cummins. After installing i had to turn idle screw all the way down, still won't idle. Had to turn fuel spring down to get to run. What am I doing wrong? Please help
I would almost bet that your throttle indexing is off. I would almost out money on it. Pull the lever off the throttle shaft and double check it. As you install the lever back on the to shaft make sure to pull up on the shaft at the same time so it doesn't come unindexed.
I had to laugh because my indexing changed when I tightened the lever down and everything was reversed. Giving it throttle killed it and pushing it back reved it up. I had to crack a few injector lines loose to bleed the air out. I even poured a little bit of fresh diesel in the top of the pump to reduce the amount of bleeding I had to do but still gave me a hard time starting
Man I had the same issue, but I tore back into it, readjusted the throttle indexing, and I cant get it to start, AT ALL, she acts like she's going to fire up, but won't run
Mountains looked familiar. Lol. I live here to. Any chance you’d want to make some side $$ doing a gov spring and pin on my first gen? First, first gen and don’t want to ruin anything on my daily driver. Lol.
Sounds good. I think I can get her done, just worried about run away or tuning after there done. Just ordered them from Eric. Thanks for the discount code as well!
@@decentgarage my main problem is towing steep grades under load. The jump in the gear ratios is too much. I've even swapped in 4:10s with posi, which was a massive improvement, but the weak link remains the 48re. It's a 2004.5, & now looking to move on to 6 speed NV5600 to match my year model. Good luck!!
Make sure to use the promo code "decent1stgen" for 10% off your order at thehungrydiesel.com!
THD has the best quality pin that is designed for the 1st gen VE pump and geniune Bosch spring I think I paid less than a $100 for it and it runs great
@@bbtoyshop agreed
What a background! Holy cow!
It is pretty nice to wake up to that view everyday!
@@decentgarage almost looked like a fake background its so nice. 👌🏻
@@SmithAerosports1 it is amazing to see it everyday.
I got some performance tips from a Cummins mechanic. The first two things were to set the valve lash 2 thousands tighter. 18 thousands for exhaust 8 for intake. We advanced the timing a couple of degrees. Those helped but next came a Banks exhaust and 16cm turbo housing. The biggest gains were the fuel metering pin and the 3200 rpm Governor spring. The 5.9 B engines were designed for industrial applications and so the Governor starts to cut back fuel delivery when it gets up close to the designed maximum rpm. You’re making less HP and torque at 2600 rpm than at 16-1800 rpm.
Ran the early 250hp 5.9 Bs in duel marine applications and. They were OK but Smokey. When the 300hp version was released Cummins said they were too strong for us. I looked at the specifications and saw the only difference was a higher pressure fuel system and 200 more rpm on the top end. 2600 vs 2800. The weight was the same. That’s what went into the next boat and it made a world of difference. Also a cleaner running engine smoke wise. As subsequent models came out the horsepower continued to climb. RD
Early fuel cut is to creep up and not exceed the limmit if a drive shaft snaps under load at full tilt.
My 91.5 auto stock + 16cm ND thermal management full wrap( down pipe to head bolts) made 491.0@1846wheel tq 178.3@1976wheel hp and 45whp90wtq on the governor @92.5mph
You autta get you a long allen ball tip socket for that back bolt. It'd be handy if you're doing em all the time for sure.
Yeah, i've been meaning to get one.
A trick I use to break free Allen bolts is to use a Crescent Wrench. Stick the Allen Wrench end into the hole in the side of the Crescent. It won't slip out, you have a lot of leverage, and you can use your free hand to keep downward pressure on the Allen Wrench so it won't strip.
That's a perfect idea! Thanks for the input!
Or a nut driver works great!
Thanks again Tim for a great video for us hobbyist mechanics.
A problem I ran into, that I hadn’t realized, was someone previously had done the “1/8 in timing bump” and my pump was rotated towards the cylinder head allowing for zero room to even see the back Allen cover bolt. after hours of scratching my head and figuring out how to loosen the pump from the timing case I was able to get to it. Unfortunately at this point I began rushing and missed your warning about the “top hat spring” …. It went flying…. I was actually able to make one from a pen spring and it seems to be working just fine for now until my replacement spring comes in the mail.
Oh no! Well I'm glad you figured out a solution
Tim at Decent Garage, the First Gen Guru. Thanks.
Any time!
Good explanation, camera angles and sound, thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Year later and it’s still helping people! Well me at least. Thanks for your informative video, greatly appreciated 🙏
I just got my 1st gen, been binging videos here and Ovens Garage
Glad to hear this!
Tyler has great videos as well!
Hi Tim, I watched your video numerous times and finally got the nerve to tackle the governor spring. wasn't too bad of a job. but the results are amazing, the pickup and go is really fantastic. I wish I did this when the truck was new, what a difference. thanks for making that video. anyone can follow those directions.
Glad it helped
I'm midway through this process. One difference with a manual transmission the low pressure supply line from the fuel filter crosses over the throttle assembly close enough that it has to be removed to pull the assembly up off the shaft. On an automatic it routes around the throttle position sensor. You'll need a 14mm for the top nut and a 17mm for the bottom and avoid twisting the fuel line. I'm waiting on a crowfoot flare nut set to be delivered so I can continue.
Interesting! I didn't know there was a different in that line between auto and manual. The more you know. ⭐
@@decentgarage Hours of research for a replacement line for when I inevitably twist and kink the currently installed one leads me to believe mine *might* be a one-off replacement or non-Cummins part. The only OEM replacements I could track down route around the throttle assembly as yours does in the video. Not sure. Thanks again.
This is by far the best of these instructions I've seen. Thank you for putting it together. Is there enough room to completely remove the fuel screw if that would help simplify the removal and reinstallation of the top half of the pump?
Thanks! There is enough room but it really isn't necessary. Just back it out to where it is flush with this inside of the pump top. 👍
@@decentgarage Ah, I misunderstood that part then. I thought you were lifting up on the top half because the bolt kept bumping into the fuel screw as you were trying to remove it.
?
Could you do a video on the other tweaks to the pump that you mention at the beginning of the video? There are so many different sources for info out there on these trucks that it's confusing. You have a knack for presenting the information clearly and concisely in a way that makes it easy to understand and emulate.
Man super informative,Was just ready to do this to my truck I’m confident I can do it with this video
It's not super hard, just pay attention as you go and don't forget to back the power screw out!!! 😂
Love your videos my truck is a 1993 dually with a 5 speed. Want to end up putting around 300-400 hp at my rear wheels. What I want to put on my truck is either 5x12 or 5x14 ducky injectors. 3200 gov spring THD fuel pin, intercooler upgrade kit and BHAF intake kit and either a hx35 wastegated or a 60 mm turbo upgrade. I can get everything off of the Hungary diesel except the turbos and the injectors and will be using ur code.
Call Eric at the hungry diesel. He sells turbos and injectors as well. Sometimes they are not listed on the site though. He'll hook you up
Did you ever have any issues with the throttle shaft spinning on you while you torqued down the nut? Mine has spun on both my pumps and I haven’t figured out a fool-proof way to stop it from spinning. Any advice on that?
wow. that background is amazing
Glad you like it!
Great video. I haven’t heard about breaking the fulcrum so that’s good to know. I’ll definitely be using that discount code!
Thanks! Let me know what you end up buying
Got my spring and pin from hungry diesel today. Order it black Friday used the pro mo code too. Great deal! Going to install them tomorrow
Awesome! He got sooooo many orders for black friday that he had to wait for his supplier to get more. Glad it worked out 👍
How much. Was it Black Friday ?
He should also advise to change the Throttle Shaft O-Ring, as if yours is like mine that O-ring has been on that shaft for 40 years (1991 pre 1991.5). You can purchase the expensive ones or get the Harborfreight O-ring kit (must be over a hundred O-rings in that kit) red and blue boxes for about 10.00 each one metric the other inch. I hate leaks and don't have many. Tappet cover gasket, lots of parts have to come off to get to that. I will say, decent Garage has lots of GREAT videos of how to do things.
Thanks for all your videos, my next project will be Ball Joints. There is also a way to reassemble without moving the power screw. using a piece of wire to hold the lever forward against the spring pressure. when you put the top back on. it works just need to be careful and not in a hurry and do not force anything it goes in real easy. That way I didn't have to worry about a run-a-way and once I figured out the indexing, it started right up and of course the indexing was off a tooth. fixed that and no issues. Again thank you for the videos they are so very helpful (and I know quite a bit about these old trucks) never too late to learn new stuff
Hi Tim, I think your doing a great job ! Keep it up
Thanks!
How big of a difference is the Fuel Pin and 3200 Spring to seat horsepower? Will it be one of those things I had wished I did 20 years ago? Guess on horsepower and mileage if you keep your foot out of it. Thanks for the time. Love your videos.
Very informative video i will be making my order from them for the governor spring and the fuel pin.
Good deal. You won't be disappointed at all. This is a killer combo and will completely change your truck
damn good video. already had upgrade fuel pin in mine. added govenor spring and one turn on fuel screw went from 12 psi to 30 psi lol
Yeah it's a huge upgrade
I might pull the trigger on a piston lift pump of his with that promo code. I was just gonna go with a airdog 2 from Ebay.
Go with the Piston lift pump for sure. Airdog is overboard for a VE pump. I have the Piston pump on my crew cab and love it.
@@decentgarage I agree the HVLP piston pump is a great option. I like mine a lot. Worth it for the improved priming mechanism alone.
@@10mm For sure! I hated priming the stock pump haha
Hi nice video , my 12v has not throttle at all zero rpm change when any lever is moved , except for the shut off , do you think the spring could be broke? Thanks greg
Interesting. Did you buy it this way or did this start after installing the gov spring? My guess would be that the throttle lever is not pushed down onto the splines on the throttle shaft
Awesome video, super informative thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
You do a great job of explaining the details!! New subscriber here!
Thanks Kevin! I'll get back to more how to videos after I'm done painting the crew cab haha
Awesome video, .very thorough. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Nice job! Very informative.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video , off topic question would you know were to find a upper control arm for a 92 d250 I have looked everywhere in my area including a couple websites and no luck, any feedback will be appreciated
My go to place is rock auto. I know fsrfromstock just released an upper control arm but it's pricey.
Will do, thanks..
Did you have to adjust your kickdown or tv cable after doing this do you have any videos on this?
I didn't have to adjust mine. I have done that on one of my previous first gens but don't have a video on it. Next time I have to do it i'll film it for sure.
Thank you very much for the instruction!!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video, coming friday i'm picking up my d250 Cummins. It came a long way from Florida to the Netherlands.
Btw, i've subscribed. Really like you're channel.
Dang that will be a unique truck in the Netherlands for sure!
Took top off to do governor spring and .....lots of varnish in there? How do I clean it up somewhat? No wonder it won't run until it warms up...
I've had a few people ask that and I'm not sure. I would guess water got in somehow but I'm not sure how it found its way in.
I installed the the 3200rpm gov spring and a bd diesel fuel pin. My truck idles very high and white smoke out the exhaust do you know what the problem is? Is my indexing off?
Indexing is off
I need some advice here. I just put the 2300 spring in. When I cracked loose the top bolt the spring came back around and snapped back into its original spot. It bumped it loose before I could see which mark it was lined up with with. I just eye ball it to the 2nd mark twords the front of the truck. It started up and runs but the idle is way low. Did I screw it up?
Did you get it fixed? For some reason I missed this comment.
Was your indexing still lined up on the second tick mark? I’m still troubleshooting this damn truck. I put in a 3200 spring just now. I’ll let you know how it goes.
Excellent video, thank you!
Just did the governor spring on my 92 d250 and it starts no problem but is idling high and has a lot of grey smoke. Any suggestions? thanks
Hey sorry, I just saw this. Did you get it figured out?
Hey, I have a problem!
I did everything exactly like you said; I got a BD spring and the instructions say to unscrew the max fuel screw until you can see the O ring before removing the top of the pump.
Truck won't fire, just turns and turns. I've adjusted the indexing, pretty sure it's right. I even put a jumper wire between the FSS and the positive terminal on the battery to make sure the solenoid is open.
Is it possible there's air in the lines? Any help appreciated.
Could be air in the lines but I've never had that issue when doing this. Make sure theax fuel screw was backed out enough so that it isn't protruding in to the pump top. This makes it clear the fulcrum lever. I would also triple check indexing. Also, did you turn the max fuel screw back in to where it was prior to pulling the pump top?
@@decentgarage I forgot to mark the max screw before I unscrewed it. So I have tried a few different positions. I barely cracked the nut that holds it in place, so I can't be more than 2-3 revolutions off.
I have a picture of the indexing and will double check today. I screwed the max fuel screw back in after I screwed the pump top down.
What size was that ball end allan wrench? I need to get a set.
Thank you for the video helped out 👍🏼
Glad it helped
Did you ever make the throttle position sensor delete video?
I talk about it in this video.
ruclips.net/video/Vz30n1AEJRI/видео.html
Great channel, Eric from THD pointed me your way... of course I didn’t see the 10% discount until after I ordered!
I’ve got a 3200 Spring and a fuel pin on the way from him. Anxious to install.
Tried sending you a message, but can’t find a way to do it via RUclips. Have a few questions for ya about particulars if you have time?
Shoot me a message here and I’ll give ya my email.
Thanks!
Jake, there isn't a way to message through RUclips. It's unfortunate but I want to help out. Find me on Instagram @decent_1st_gen or Tim Stevenson on Facebook.
Oh man, I don’t have either of those - but I’ll try to get something figured out. Thanks for the reply.
If you are okay with it, post your email here and then I'll delete the comment once I see it and grab your email.
Thank you for your great videos and the info that you share with us.
I just wanted to ask your opinion, I have a 1993 6bt Cummins that is very slow (even my grandma can run faster 😄) I'm thinking to install a 3800rpm governor spring and the THD fuel pin just to start. Whithout breaking the bank, what it will be the best next mods you'll suggest I need to do.
Cheers.
Does the bottom banjo connection have the pesky washers like the top one?
I do not know. I would guess so though as most banjo bolts do.
Tim, any idea what size the bolts happen to be (allen head bolts) are for the pump? Not to remove (wrench size) but to replace? I have one that is stripped and am looking for them before I remove the stripped one. Thx! Great video.
I don't know the exact size...
@@decentgarage I found some that fit and happy to send a pic. M6 - 1.0 x 35mm
@@317808941 perfect! I screenshot your comment for my records
Now if I can just find someone (beyond my ability) to remove the one stripped bolt I can then replace my gov. spring, fuel pin and install a new lift pump (all from THD)!
@@317808941 did you try using a t30 torx and gently tapping it in with a hammer
Great video - on the video where you replaced the Gov. spring, you were very careful to explain not to lose the connector and small spring to which the gov. spring attaches....the end closest to banjo bolts / aft side of pump. Well what might that part number be? Say some idiot did let that slippery sucker spring loose? Any ideas where to go to replace it? Thanks for great video and assistance ..
Haha, I would call Eric at the hungry diesel and see if he has any spares.
@@decentgarage done and they are on their way!!
Haha, he's a good guy!
Do you have to cover the tubro at last when you're gonna turn it on ?
Have something ready to cover the turbo just in case
Would it be easier to do the magic bullet on the fss while you have it apart doing the governor spring ?
Yes, much easier for sure
I have an intercooler 1993 bone stock with the H1C turbo. I just got the THD fuel pin and governor spring in the mail. I and wanting to upgrade the turbo to an HX35 but dont have one yet. Can I put this fuel pin and governor spring in with the H1C and not hurt my engine?
Absolutely! You will notice a big difference even with the h1c
@@decentgarage OK, thanks Tim. I used your promo code and worked great.
Hey Tim , I finally did the governor spring and fuel pin runs much better but now I have a leak from the side. Seems to be like an over flow plastic piece it drips diesel. By any chance would you know why or how this might happened? Seems like diesel mechanics don’t know the issue.
Simply resealing the top of the pump will fix the issue. The hungry diesel has a reseal kit
@@decentgarage thank you so much I took it to a shop here in California charged me 2300 and not even fix the problem I appreciate it so much !! Thank you for these videos!
Legit question for you sir. With your experience in these trucks, and knowing how it drove and responded & performed. How did you not pre emptively know it already had a gov spring installed in it before you pulled it apart??
Great question. The truck was owned by my uncle for years and years. He said he'd didn't think the gov spring had been done so I kind of just took his word. As far as being able to feel it or not, there are so many little adjustments you can make on these trucks that it's hard to pin down "how it feels" to one mod.
@@decentgarage really appreciate you taking the time to reply to a new comment on a video that is 4 years old. Really appreciate it. Genuinely.
@@frosty_silver_fox4292 you're welcome!
How do you adjust the speedometer
Mine works but it bounces and the odometer doesn’t work
If teachers were as clear as you are on these videos I might of graduated haha..thx for the videos
Lol, that's a great compliment! Thanks!
Hey, I installed the 3600 rpm spring, which is 1/4” longer than stock. Would I need to trim that down in order for it to function properly?
You can either trim it or index your throttle shaft to compensate for the extra length.
@@decentgarage Ok awesome. What’s the difference between the springs? Is it the weight of the spring/stiffness?
I know with a stock spring it lines up with the second tick mark. Did you have to index your throttle differently with the 3200 spring, or are they similar lengths?
Lastly, do you know which direction I’d have to turn the shaft to compensate for the length of the spring? Counter clockwise or clockwise (when looking down at the shaft)?
@@mementomori2353 the 3800 spring is stiffer and slightly longer. Some people trim it so it's the same length as the stock or 3200 spring and reindex back to the second mark. If you keep it the length it is you have to index it with more tension which I believe is counterclockwise but I could be mistaken.
Great video 👍🏻
Thanks!
Did you have to bleed any lines or prime after all the fluid came out the pump
No, I didn't have to and it started just fine.
Would you not unscrew the fuel screw beforehand or does it matter?
Great question. It doesn't matter and it's much easier to do when the pump too is off so just do it when it's off. It's only an issue if you out the top back on without backing out the screw
put a towel under the banjo bolt of course the bolt that's impossible to get to is over tight
hey brother! I was doing this exact modification and my last step was to tighten my bolt down to my throttle shaft. i tightened it to much and throttle shaft broke in half. I can not find the part number to that throttle shaft for the life of me. Would you be able to point me in the right direction by chance?
Reach out to Eric gilbert on facebook. He likely has extra.
?
Tim, did you lose any fuel mileage when you put in the fuel pin and governor spring.
No, I don't know how to explain it but mileage will likely improve.
I followed all the steps I checked the fuel scre the throttle linkage the wires and it still will not start??
Give me more info. Does it not crank? Does it crank but won't fire?
Great Video
Hey Tim just put in a governor spring and THD fuel pin. Truck won't start or run unless I give it some throttle. Any idea what I messed up on?
Throttle indexing is off.
Make sure to pull up on the throttle shaft when you are lining the splines up on the throttle lever.
@@decentgarage you are correct. This is the second time I've aligned it and it keeps jumping back 2 dashes. Will try pulling up!
@@laynewade6700 i can be a bugger but you'll get it!
@@decentgarage Got the indexing thanks for the advice! Was able to drive it home from work, but it was super sluggish and wouldn't accelerate unless I did my best to get rpm by manual shift it (a518) would you say I need to turn the fuel screw in more?
Hey I was wondering, I already have installed 50hp injectors and have a 3200 govener spring that is ready to be installed and I want to get a new fuel pin and crank the fuel up, but my truck has the manuel getrag 360 and I don't want to tear it up, right now there's nothing wrong with it and I want to keep it that way even if it means leaving the power where its at, ive only had this truck for about 6 months and am new to diesle in general and don't really now what I'm doing, what would you suggestion be? Would the trans be okay with the upgrades or would I need to do something to the trans before all that?
Great question Blake. The answer is that your trans can handle any modifications you do, it is simply a matter of how you drive it. I could have 700 hp / 350 torque and as long as I drive it conservatively my stock transmission will stand a chance. Once you start hot rodding it or towing heavy you will run in to issues. I would say a 3200 gov spring and 50 hp injectors are fairly safe for your transmission though.
how do you get that back screw off lmao, I use the ball ended hex key and it just will not take it off, even with the assistance of a wrench
Persistence is key! Haha I know that doesn't help you much. It can be a bigger though.
@@decentgarage the guy before me stripped it out, the hex looks like a damn circle lol, no spring for me!
I thought it was green screen lol holy cow!!
Pump is putting fuel under fuel pin diaphragm and running out on ground...any ideas?
Likely needs the pump top resealed. I've never down it but heard it's not too hard. The hungry diesel sells the reseal kit. And remember you can use my promo code decent1stgen for 10% off.
Why should the spring also be replaced? Can't you just replace the fuel pin?
The fuel pin only affects the fueling curve. The governor spring affects throttle response and allows for fueling in higher rpm.
I installed both Hungry Diesel Fuel pin and 3200 governor spring. After adjusting fuel screw, I was able to get it to started, but.....in test drive at higher RPMs, when I depress the clutch to shift (have 5spd Getrag), the engine rev'd up. Had to slow engine revs via braking. When I do not rev the engine, there was no problem. Any thoughts on what to do to keep the engine from reving up when I depress the clutch?
It sounds like you are close to runaway and may have the fuel screw turned in too much. This is called governor hang and is the step right before reaching runaway.
@@decentgarage I have adjusted the fuel screw such that, at the current screw setting, it runs well (except for problem described). When I back off the fuel screw half a turn, it runs very roughly, but still experiences the same problem of high revs. When I back it off another half turn, it will not start. Basically, I am unable to get the truck to run and not have the high rev issue. Considering just removing the 3200 governor spring and replacing it with the original. Ackkkk
@@jamesmayfield7135 Sounds like your throttle indexing is off by one mark. Make sure it is indexed correctly.
@@decentgarage Wellllll I replaced the 3200 governor spring with the stock spring. Still has the Hungry Diesel fuel pin. Worked just fine. You may be correct on throttle indexing, but am just too dang frustrated. Now....tomorrow I will be installing the Diamond Eye Stainless Steel 4" Turbo-Back Exhaust - just watched you video. Thank you very much for responding.
@@jamesmayfield7135 Just take a braeak from it, do the exhaust and come back to it. My videos make it seem like i get everything right the first time but that is definitely not the case. I actually prefer when installs don't go perfect because that's when I learn how to diagnose the issue and I have to year things apart multiple times so it gives me repetitions.
Ah that background looks fake! I'm so envious that you get to walk out and see that every day!
It doesn't get old. I can tell you that much 😁
@@decentgarage Thank you for the informative videos. I think you have some of the best tutorials for the 1st gens. You explain very well and in detail, keep on topic and no wasted time on intros.
Thank you! Comment like this make it worth it
bruh.. i thought that was a painting behind you.. !!! where on earth do you live to have a view like that?
No painting sir. That's the view from my house in Utah. I'll do a video soon of driving the jeep up to the top of one of them 👍
@@decentgarage what jeep do you have? im gonna sub just to see that..
@@chriscraft77022 1978 cj-5 army commissioned. Just bought a kubota v2203 to diesel swap it 😁
@@decentgarage if i ever buy another jeep its gonna be a CJ-5 ..
where are you at? Is this Utah?
Yeah, I am down by Payson Utah.
Put a 3200 rpm governor spring in my Cummins. After installing i had to turn idle screw all the way down, still won't idle. Had to turn fuel spring down to get to run. What am I doing wrong? Please help
I would almost bet that your throttle indexing is off. I would almost out money on it. Pull the lever off the throttle shaft and double check it. As you install the lever back on the to shaft make sure to pull up on the shaft at the same time so it doesn't come unindexed.
Was it indeed the indexing?
Decent Garage ok
Man those are same mountains bob ross painted all the time
I spend every spare second trying to draw them just like bob ross 😅
@@decentgarage 😁btw you have a super clean first gen I have 2 a 92 and a 93 but they are not as clean as yours
What size is the L key?
I don't recall the exact size. It was the one that fit...
Hey boss I found a pin of some sort inside my gear. I have a photo I can upload
Just responded
Sick green screen background lol
Yeah, i hat waking up to that view everyday. It gets so old 😁
Are you in Utah?
Yes sir 👍
Gonna need to look you up. Just bought me 1st 1st gen cummins. Had 2nd through new bit never the 1st gen
I had to laugh because my indexing changed when I tightened the lever down and everything was reversed. Giving it throttle killed it and pushing it back reved it up. I had to crack a few injector lines loose to bleed the air out. I even poured a little bit of fresh diesel in the top of the pump to reduce the amount of bleeding I had to do but still gave me a hard time starting
Yep, that's exactly what happened to my throttle indexing. I didn't have a hard time getting it started though. Didn't have to bleed anything
Man I had the same issue, but I tore back into it, readjusted the throttle indexing, and I cant get it to start, AT ALL, she acts like she's going to fire up, but won't run
@@brendonhurley4336 have you cracked the injector lines loose to bleed the air out?
If that promo code still works imma use it before long.
It still works 👍
@@decentgarage i better take apart the pump first just to make sure I don't already have a 366 spring!
I installed a 4K in my first gen (ve pump) and it won’t start back up
You either have to trim the 4k spring exactly right or reindex the throttle. I am guess that is your issue
@@decentgarage apparently you have to be a professional to change a gov spring, so all mechanics say I mest up my pump
@@luisdaboy9578 not true at all. You have to be careful but you don't have to be a mechanic.
What a great view :O
The view at my house never gets old. And from the other side of the house the view is the whole valley. It's amazing.
Are you in utah??
Yes I am.
Mountains looked familiar. Lol. I live here to. Any chance you’d want to make some side $$ doing a gov spring and pin on my first gen? First, first gen and don’t want to ruin anything on my daily driver. Lol.
@@kevincolton3407 I don't do work on other vehicles but if you follow my videos on those things you'll be fine
Sounds good. I think I can get her done, just worried about run away or tuning after there done. Just ordered them from Eric. Thanks for the discount code as well!
@@kevincolton3407 you'll be fine. Message me on IG if you have questions
Can we talk about that view??
We sure can! It's amazing 🤩
What happened to that random lost child in the background. Were you supposed to be watching her🤣
Unfortunately its an automatic. Me about my 48RE..
I haven't had any issues with my automatic, knock on wood.
@@decentgarage my main problem is towing steep grades under load. The jump in the gear ratios is too much. I've even swapped in 4:10s with posi, which was a massive improvement, but the weak link remains the 48re. It's a 2004.5, & now looking to move on to 6 speed NV5600 to match my year model. Good luck!!
I’m in a bind! Changed fuel pin and governor spring. Truck won’t start, checked the indexing and the wires for the shut off and still nothing
Never mind I broke the fulcrum
No!!!!!! That was my suspicion if everything else was good
Bro that background is unreal
Yes it is 😁
That background looks fake lol Incredible view!
It does feel pretty surreal seeing it every day.
@@decentgarage I bet
I sent you an email sir
Just responded
N
👍
get in touch with utawesomperformance he is on you tube he does a lot of dyno testing he doesn't have a dyno but knows who does
Will do! Thanks for the tip