decent_garage oh okay! Thanks for the video man! I’ve bought the shocks, springs, and isolators to install on my truck. Just waiting for the paint to be done.
I did this exact leveling kit and took it for alignment immediately afterwards. The truck is hard to turn into parking spaces now and the tires make noise when turning hard. Alignment shop gave me print out and shows everything within spec. Did you have this issue after installing the Moog springs? Or did they not align my truck correctly and gave me some bogus print out?
I know this is an old video, but did you ever manage to get the lower control arm strut rod to line up again? I just installed most of these parts with Bilstien 4600 shocks, and the passenger side wouldn't line up after assembly.
@@decentgarage thank you! I released the ball joint and had a buddy help me put some English on the control arm and got it to line up. My '93 drives great now!!
One of the best how to videos I've seen. A+ My ole girl has 540,000 miles and I am pretty sure her springs are wore out. I need to step up and do this.
I hate how easy you made this all look. Going on week two with my front end in pieces. Followed every step verbatim and everything that could go wrong has. Hoping to get this done some time this year
Sorry dude. If it makes you feel better, I thought doing my front suspension on steering on the og would be a Saturday job and it took over a month to get it figured out.
Just installed the same exact setup after watching your video plenty of times, definitely lifted the front a bit & rides way better & also easier on my back less bumpiness
You need to find out if the play is in the steering box or the steering shaft coupler. A blue too steering box and Borgeson steering shaft will make a world of difference
@@EJDJassociates yep get a new Borgeson shaft. Borgensons are around $250. I found an identical shaft on eBay for $60 and I've run it for years with no issue. That took the slop out of mine
What size tires are on that truck? The one you levelled. Looks good. Any problems getting the alignment correct after installing the springs? My mechanic says not to do it, it'll never line up right.
I started this same set up today, everything went pretty smooth thanks you your video, but I cannot get the strut rod to line up, just curious how you did it
So I put those Springs on about 8 months ago. I'm having a problem with the shocks getting pulled through the top lol Will the stock shocks work with this level kit?
I could almost hear the noise driving off the curb. But for those who want the springs a tad cheaper let me let you in on a little secret. On rock auto when they are in stock the acdelco 1 ton springs are cheaper then the moog all day every day even if the 3/4 ton springs look cheaper after shipping they are the same price depending on location. So this upgrade really doesnt cost anything at all if you are doing the front suspension.
Thank you for your video. You made everything look simple. I know it's not easy, but at least the roadmap is laid out for a newbie like me. I have started receiving the parts I need from Amazon to use for my upgrade/repair. I noticed at @15:32 however, that your front suspension rebounds more like a 4wd dodge, when going up the driveway. I was thinking I rather like my front suspension basic character now. i just wanted it 3 inches higher. Thanks to the information on this video, I have decided for me, that I would go the route of adding an aluminum front coil spacer that sits on the bottom of the coil spring per side. I am hoping for additional height without additional stiffness or the least amount of it.
just replaced mine this wknd and thread in on top, press in on bottom for 4k# axle....a lot of the parts stores around me had no clue and got me the wrong lowers but NAPA came through clutch
What would we do without people like you! thank you man really appreciate your content. I reached out to you on insta and you helped me figure out my wiper issue on my first gen. Keep up the good work !
Quick question on this, is the Moog 7170 or Moog 7226s the correct spring to use with the 93 d250? Also what bilstein shocks would you run in front/rear?
Question for you partner, I have a 1990 dodge d250 gasser that I'm cummins swapping right now, I'm leaving it 2wd but I would like to clear 33x12.5 tires with wide offset, how can it be done?
Heavy offset wheels will just totally screw up the suspension as the outer wheel bearing is designed to balance the load in the hub and usually is only designed for 25% of the actual load when you move the wheel out you stress the bearing and the spring it's like a breaker bar on the suspension and large wheels are often poorly made and will induce death wobble. This in turn will stress the frame and steering box and cause cracks in the steering box mounting and also hammer out the lower bushing and the string box itself along with eating idler control arms and tie rod ends will not last near as long as they are under constant stress due to the wider wheelbase inducing heavier loads on all these suspension components.
Also, I used that "metal horseshoe" spacer you mentioned at the end of the video along with my stock coils and new shocks. As far as I know, the metal spacer just replaces the factory rubber one and levels it back out to where it was from the factory. It rides better than some brand new trucks. Lol
I didn't use the 7226s on my d150,I forgot the part number but just enter your year and model. Itshould pop up 3 types of springs,stock,heavy duty and severe duty. Get the severe duty,the part number will have an S at the end.the springs are longer and thicker than stock,it gave me 2" lift on my d150 gasser
I need help finding some rotors for my 93 First gen D250 Cummins ,the rotors from O’Reillys don’t fit on to the spindles and is all original no swaps or anything
I had the same problem. There's two options at O'Reilly. One with the hubs built in, one without. I had to get the one without and press my lug studs out to separate them and use the old hub. Hope that helps
Cummins d350 or d250 4000lbs non Cummins the smaller stuff. Same with the wheel bearing. The 2 wheel drive Cummins front ends are the same parts. Keep up the good work!
@@adameriksson6921 I never found a great answer to that question. My advice would be to check the sticker on the drivers door jam which should specify which axles you have.
Every truck Ive come across was press in lower Thread in upper. Halfton to 1ton. Upper arms are actually the same halfton to 1ton its just the balljoint itself thats different. Threaded lowers are out there but Ive yet to see one in person. Keep the videos coming 👍
I've been driving 80's Dodge trucks for 30 years and I've never seen a pressed ball joint. Not saying it's impossible, just haven't seen it. Chrysler used threaded ball joints on everything, until early 90's. They are notorious for ball joint pushing through the threads. The best way to fix stripped ball joint hole is to buy the threaded steel sleeve that welds in place. It's superior to simply having a few threads in the thin control arm.
I gotta question. I have a '90 D350, dually, standard trans. cummins. I need to do springs in front. Stock springs are .875 dia. wire. I want to ride well. 7226s are .906 dia. 5716 are .936. Stock wheel is load c range. I put load e tires. 5176 will match load e tires, but I am afraid to beat front end to death. 5716s is too much. I am leaning to 7226s for ride quality and front end longevity, as heavier than stock. I have standard cab and standard trans. so less weight than crew and automatic trans. Any input, as you have done a bunch on these trucks and I enjoy your vids.
Yes the thread in ball joints are on 90% of all upper 3800 and 4000 lb for an axles. The lowers are press in/out, some motorhomes and 1-ton trucks did have screw in lower ball joints just look for the four flat spaces on the ball joint before removing. The 3800 and 4,000 lb lower control arm bushings are also bigger and have a much larger bolt passing through the center. I really don't understand why you replace the upper ball joint as it is not used to support the weight of the vehicle it's just a guide and will usually last three times longer than the lower ball joint which has the Big spring pulling down on it. Four times the stresses on it compared to the upper. And I'm a little fearful that your upper ball joints May on screw themselves as those should be cranked down with about 200 ft lb of pressure and usually a small tack weld at least some loctite to hold them tight. The things that wear/s out most on these suspensions is the upper control arm bushings which are usually replaced with urethane as those were not increased in strength for the 3800 and 4,000 lb axles. They did however weld a reinforcement brace in the upper control arms to deal with extra twisting stresses. It just amazes me how many people fail to remove the upper arm rebound bumper on the upper control arm as the first thing removed to allow the entire assembly to swing lower so you don't have all that spring pressure making things not line up when reassembling yes that's why you're strut rod didn't line up. And the strut rod bushings should have been replaced with urethane. Other than replacing the coil springs and upper dampeners you replace the one part that basically never wears out and failed to replace the problem child parts that are plugged by the heavy loads so I give you a C- on this one.
Hey man got a d150 2wd got all new tie rods and ball joints center link ans idea arm otw. I was going to get the rancho shocks that allow a 2 inch lift. I was going to get 2 inch lift strings from eston Detroit but these moog 7226s if they lift the front 2 inches I might go with these seeing how you approve of them so much. I seen you got them on rock auto do you have a link so I can get them via rock auto as your Amazon link is out of stock. Also with the back if I got the moog springs could I add a 2 inch lift block in tbe back or a add a leaf. Essentially I wanted to do the 2 inch suspension lift all around and a 3 inch body just to fit a nicer 31-33 inch tire. Thanks for the video man
On a 2wd if you lift the front end more then 1" the ride will suffer really bad. What happens is you loose the up travel in the suspension. You still loose travel with 1" but it still has some room for travel before the bumer blocks. Good video, I have to do the whole front end on my truck.I have never done the screw in ball joints. You made them look easy to do. I need to find some time to get back work on it. Keep up the good work making videos. I know a lot of people appreciate them.
I'm not sure. I do have a friend who is going to start producing really nice pillar pods for 1st gens. I should have one to do a video on in the next 6 months.
It is amazing how much better to ride is with the correct parts! I hope this video helps somebody out.
You didn’t put back the shock? How come?
I did, I just didn't show it haha
decent_garage oh okay! Thanks for the video man! I’ve bought the shocks, springs, and isolators to install on my truck. Just waiting for the paint to be done.
Nice! One step at a time
I’m looking forward to doing this to my 91 d350
Dually
Do you know if the lower ball joints are different press in sizes for the 250 and 350?
I did this exact leveling kit and took it for alignment immediately afterwards. The truck is hard to turn into parking spaces now and the tires make noise when turning hard. Alignment shop gave me print out and shows everything within spec. Did you have this issue after installing the Moog springs? Or did they not align my truck correctly and gave me some bogus print out?
What wheels are those?
I do not recall but I had the same wheels on the OG crew for a while as well.
I know this is an old video, but did you ever manage to get the lower control arm strut rod to line up again? I just installed most of these parts with Bilstien 4600 shocks, and the passenger side wouldn't line up after assembly.
I backed it out of the driveway and pulled it back in and just the jarring of going over the curb got it to lined back up.
@@decentgarage thank you! I released the ball joint and had a buddy help me put some English on the control arm and got it to line up. My '93 drives great now!!
Having trouble making the spring fit into my 85 d250 318… am I missing something?? Everything is exactly the same.
Good video but how u gunna measures the lift on the front and rear wen the rear wheel in on the street and the front is up on the curb ?
I just used a measuring tape 🤷♂️
what if they send you metal instead of rubber on the spacer
Thanks for the video! Sure helped me a lot and saved me a lot of time and money.
So I noticed you didn’t put on a new shock. Does it not require the new shock when that spring is installed?
Ideally you'd buy a new slightly longer shock but with so little travel in this suspension you can get away with the stock ones
holy crap... I have the same wheels! :)
Haha I like them
Having a heck of a time separating the ball joints upper or lower from the spindle any tips tried a pickle fork and a bfh
One of the best how to videos I've seen. A+ My ole girl has 540,000 miles and I am pretty sure her springs are wore out. I need to step up and do this.
Thanks for the kind feedback!
Tim did you change the struts/shock absorbers when you did this?
I used the same shocks.
how about a link to the balljoints? im getting inner wear on my 91 2wd cummins, love the vids man. thanks alot
Sorry for the delay. I don't have a link actually. I just went to Napa and they looked up what I needed.
Does the truck become more stiff after these spacers?
It doesn't ride as smooth as stock but much smoother than if you run the metal horse shoe spacer
I hate how easy you made this all look. Going on week two with my front end in pieces. Followed every step verbatim and everything that could go wrong has. Hoping to get this done some time this year
Sorry dude. If it makes you feel better, I thought doing my front suspension on steering on the og would be a Saturday job and it took over a month to get it figured out.
Just installed the same exact setup after watching your video plenty of times, definitely lifted the front a bit & rides way better & also easier on my back less bumpiness
I clicked the link but it says these springs won’t fit my d350
Do you have to pull the ball joints to change the springs or can you use spring compressors
You could probably get away with just using a good spring compressor
Do you have any recommendations for the steering wheel play just bought a 93 d250
You need to find out if the play is in the steering box or the steering shaft coupler. A blue too steering box and Borgeson steering shaft will make a world of difference
@@decentgarage it’s in the shaft
@@EJDJassociates yep get a new Borgeson shaft. Borgensons are around $250. I found an identical shaft on eBay for $60 and I've run it for years with no issue. That took the slop out of mine
@@decentgarage awesome building it for my 14 year old son so I gotta make sure it’s road worthy
Strut rods line up after load?
Once i backed out of the driveway and pulled back in they lined up
What size tires are on that truck? The one you levelled. Looks good. Any problems getting the alignment correct after installing the springs? My mechanic says not to do it, it'll never line up right.
We found the springs
We can’t find the isolators. The part number you list it only the spring. Can you send me the isolator part number
Hello, could you put the part number of the coil springs so I can buy some, please?
Do you need to have those isolators? I'm replacing the stock Springs with those Springs you have
I don't know that I'd go without them. You're front end will probably sound very clanky
@@decentgarage ok thanks a lot
@@decentgarage Were you able to use the stock shocks?
The end measurement was 33 1/2 on the front. Did you measure it beforehand? How much did it bring up the front end?
would these part work in an 1986 d150 and possibly bring it up enough for some bigger tires?
Loved the video. Laid it all out very good. I just ordered all the parts and will comment after it is done
Please let us know how yours turns out 👍
Will these springs work for a d350 and be ok when I put a load on it
Yes and yes
I started this same set up today, everything went pretty smooth thanks you your video, but I cannot get the strut rod to line up, just curious how you did it
I backed it out of the driveway and pulled it back in and the strut rod lined up. Just needed a little jarring
@@decentgarage I appreciate the help
Did you not put the shocks back in?
Yes i did. Stock shocks
So I put those Springs on about 8 months ago. I'm having a problem with the shocks getting pulled through the top lol Will the stock shocks work with this level kit?
It’s the same for a D350? I mean the parts?
Should be but the ball joints may differ slightly. I'm not positive on that
The springs are no longer available, do you know anywhere else to get them
I would check summit and rock auto
Did you lose any suspension travel
It does ride rougher than stock which i would assume means less travel with stiffer springs
I could almost hear the noise driving off the curb. But for those who want the springs a tad cheaper let me let you in on a little secret. On rock auto when they are in stock the acdelco 1 ton springs are cheaper then the moog all day every day even if the 3/4 ton springs look cheaper after shipping they are the same price depending on location. So this upgrade really doesnt cost anything at all if you are doing the front suspension.
Dang! That's great information. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for your video. You made everything look simple. I know it's not easy, but at least the roadmap is laid out for a newbie like me. I have started receiving the parts I need from Amazon to use for my upgrade/repair. I noticed at @15:32 however, that your front suspension rebounds more like a 4wd dodge, when going up the driveway. I was thinking I rather like my front suspension basic character now. i just wanted it 3 inches higher. Thanks to the information on this video, I have decided for me, that I would go the route of adding an aluminum front coil spacer that sits on the bottom of the coil spring per side. I am hoping for additional height without additional stiffness or the least amount of it.
Let me know how it turns out!
my d250 was a 4klb “axle” with thread in style on top
Interesting... I am going to look more into it.
I think the best thing to do is check your door sticker data sheet in that case.
just replaced mine this wknd and thread in on top, press in on bottom for 4k# axle....a lot of the parts stores around me had no clue and got me the wrong lowers but NAPA came through clutch
@@timothymichael2561 Nice! Good to know!
@@timothymichael2561 if it has a Cummins then it's 4k. Gas motor runs the smaller front end parts.
If a pickle fork isn't working what is plan B.
A bigger hammer
I want to lift my 1993 dodge d150 1st generation what should I do or what lift should I buy?
What would we do without people like you! thank you man really appreciate your content. I reached out to you on insta and you helped me figure out my wiper issue on my first gen. Keep up the good work !
I appreciate that!
Hey great vid I'm buying a 89d150 and I want to level it for 33s would I rub. thanks
It's hard to say. I think 33s would be pushing it
How can I buy this kit for mine I have a 87 single bad dodge 2wd gas powered but I wanna level it what is the name of those kit
Appreciate your time making these videos, definitely making my trucks restoration path more guided.
Thanks! Comments like this make it worth it.
Great info. Going to try and remove the upper control arms tomorrow, wish me luck!
Good luck!
What are the serial/part numbers for the springs and rubber deals
There should be links for them in the description of the video
Quick question on this, is the Moog 7170 or Moog 7226s the correct spring to use with the 93 d250? Also what bilstein shocks would you run in front/rear?
7226s is the correct one but i recently heard they are discontinuing production of them. You can still run stock size shocks with these springs.
what about aligning a 1989 d-150 2wd after level kit? any tips? thank you
When it comes to alignment I take it to the pros no matter what.
Question for you partner, I have a 1990 dodge d250 gasser that I'm cummins swapping right now, I'm leaving it 2wd but I would like to clear 33x12.5 tires with wide offset, how can it be done?
This is basically one of the only ways to lift a 2wd safely. No garuentees that it will fit a heavy offset wheel.
Heavy offset wheels will just totally screw up the suspension as the outer wheel bearing is designed to balance the load in the hub and usually is only designed for 25% of the actual load when you move the wheel out you stress the bearing and the spring it's like a breaker bar on the suspension and large wheels are often poorly made and will induce death wobble.
This in turn will stress the frame and steering box and cause cracks in the steering box mounting and also hammer out the lower bushing and the string box itself along with eating idler control arms and tie rod ends will not last near as long as they are under constant stress due to the wider wheelbase inducing heavier loads on all these suspension components.
i bought that exact leveling kit and it ended up lowering my truck even more. the springs couldn’t hold the weight of the truck
Would a D250 kit work on a D200?
I can't say for sure if they would work. I'm more familiar with 89-93 cummins trucks
What about the shock? Do you not have to put a new one in?
I reused the ones that were in there which works fine.
Awesome video Tim. Wish I had this when I did mine
Thanks man!
Also, I used that "metal horseshoe" spacer you mentioned at the end of the video along with my stock coils and new shocks. As far as I know, the metal spacer just replaces the factory rubber one and levels it back out to where it was from the factory. It rides better than some brand new trucks. Lol
That's crazy! I can't imagine that thing riding well!
Curious. What shocks were you riding with on the 250 ?
I believe they were just stock shocks but I'm not sure
Can we put the mog leveling spring and spacer with the stock shocks? Or longer shocks are needed ?
I used stock shocks and it worked fine
This should still work on a d150 gas right ?
I didn't use the 7226s on my d150,I forgot the part number but just enter your year and model. Itshould pop up 3 types of springs,stock,heavy duty and severe duty. Get the severe duty,the part number will have an S at the end.the springs are longer and thicker than stock,it gave me 2" lift on my d150 gasser
@@archaeologicalrecoveryteam3160 HOW WAS IT ALIGNED?
I need help finding some rotors for my 93 First gen D250 Cummins ,the rotors from O’Reillys don’t fit on to the spindles and is all original no swaps or anything
I will be doing brakes on my crew cab here shortly.
I had the same problem. There's two options at O'Reilly. One with the hubs built in, one without. I had to get the one without and press my lug studs out to separate them and use the old hub. Hope that helps
Jake Burgess I got told that but I don’t know where to get them pressed but thank you for the help
@@Ab_third no problem. I used a big arbor press but I've heard of people using a hammer with a brass punch
What size tires are on it
I believe these are 245/75r16
Cummins d350 or d250 4000lbs non Cummins the smaller stuff. Same with the wheel bearing. The 2 wheel drive Cummins front ends are the same parts. Keep up the good work!
Thanks!
I'm going to get ball joints for my 93 D250. How do I figure out which ball joints I'll need before I pull it all apart?
Upper or lower? For upper you need the ones I used in this video. For lower they will be press in.
@@decentgarage and it's not the 4k axle right?
@@adameriksson6921 I never found a great answer to that question. My advice would be to check the sticker on the drivers door jam which should specify which axles you have.
@@decentgarage thank you. I'll check it.
@@decentgarage hey which one looks better like yours single cab short bed or single cab long bed or extended cab short bed but lifted
Every truck Ive come across was press in lower Thread in upper. Halfton to 1ton. Upper arms are actually the same halfton to 1ton its just the balljoint itself thats different.
Threaded lowers are out there but Ive yet to see one in person.
Keep the videos coming 👍
Interesting 🤔 that makes more sense from what I ran in to.
Great video! Im getting a 84’ D150 2WD how can i lift it? Im trying to run 35’s
You can lift it just like I did on this one.
What did you end up having to do to get the bar to line back up?
Backed it out of the driveway and pulled it back in and it lined right up! Easy fix!
decent_garage I backed mine up and pulled it back in and it was sadly still off a bit :(
decent_garage thanks for the videos man your my favorite 12v videos you’re super helpful appreciate it
decent_garage when you pulled it back in did you jack it back up and take tire off again?
@@Aaron-oi3nv What did you do?
does anyone know what the number on the frame means ive always been curious mine is 60 by the looks of it in this video his is 914.
I've been driving 80's Dodge trucks for 30 years and I've never seen a pressed ball joint. Not saying it's impossible, just haven't seen it. Chrysler used threaded ball joints on everything, until early 90's.
They are notorious for ball joint pushing through the threads. The best way to fix stripped ball joint hole is to buy the threaded steel sleeve that welds in place. It's superior to simply having a few threads in the thin control arm.
I gotta question. I have a '90 D350, dually, standard trans. cummins. I need to do springs in front. Stock springs are .875 dia. wire. I want to ride well. 7226s are
.906 dia. 5716 are .936. Stock wheel is load c range. I put load e tires. 5176 will match load e tires, but I am afraid to beat front end to death. 5716s is too much. I am leaning to 7226s for ride quality and front end longevity, as heavier than stock. I have standard cab and standard trans. so less weight than crew and automatic trans.
Any input, as you have done a bunch on these trucks and I enjoy your vids.
Yes the thread in ball joints are on 90% of all upper 3800 and 4000 lb for an axles.
The lowers are press in/out, some motorhomes and 1-ton trucks did have screw in lower ball joints just look for the four flat spaces on the ball joint before removing.
The 3800 and 4,000 lb lower control arm bushings are also bigger and have a much larger bolt passing through the center.
I really don't understand why you replace the upper ball joint as it is not used to support the weight of the vehicle it's just a guide and will usually last three times longer than the lower ball joint which has the Big spring pulling down on it. Four times the stresses on it compared to the upper.
And I'm a little fearful that your upper ball joints May on screw themselves as those should be cranked down with about 200 ft lb of pressure and usually a small tack weld at least some loctite to hold them tight.
The things that wear/s out most on these suspensions is the upper control arm bushings which are usually replaced with urethane as those were not increased in strength for the 3800 and 4,000 lb axles.
They did however weld a reinforcement brace in the upper control arms to deal with extra twisting stresses.
It just amazes me how many people fail to remove the upper arm rebound bumper on the upper control arm as the first thing removed to allow the entire assembly to swing lower so you don't have all that spring pressure making things not line up when reassembling yes that's why you're strut rod didn't line up.
And the strut rod bushings should have been replaced with urethane.
Other than replacing the coil springs and upper dampeners you replace the one part that basically never wears out and failed to replace the problem child parts that are plugged by the heavy loads so I give you a C- on this one.
How did you lift the other D250? I want to lift mine a bit (2WD, V8)
What part number are the springs and the isolator? Where did you purchase it from?
Check in the description of the video. They should be listed in there with a link to buy them on Amazon! 👍
The top should be torqued to 120 to 150 lbs, right? That's what I heard?
That's right
The top of what ? The ball joint ?
The ball joint screws into the arm. That's what I was referring to. It also requires a special square shaped ball joint socket.
Hey man got a d150 2wd got all new tie rods and ball joints center link ans idea arm otw. I was going to get the rancho shocks that allow a 2 inch lift. I was going to get 2 inch lift strings from eston Detroit but these moog 7226s if they lift the front 2 inches I might go with these seeing how you approve of them so much. I seen you got them on rock auto do you have a link so I can get them via rock auto as your Amazon link is out of stock. Also with the back if I got the moog springs could I add a 2 inch lift block in tbe back or a add a leaf. Essentially I wanted to do the 2 inch suspension lift all around and a 3 inch body just to fit a nicer 31-33 inch tire. Thanks for the video man
Hey man quick question , would these springs fit on my 89 first gen ?
If it's a 2wd and a Cummins then yes they will.
What if it’s a 318?
On a 2wd if you lift the front end more then 1" the ride will suffer really bad. What happens is you loose the up travel in the suspension. You still loose travel with 1" but it still has some room for travel before the bumer blocks.
Good video, I have to do the whole front end on my truck.I have never done the screw in ball joints. You made them look easy to do. I need to find some time to get back work on it.
Keep up the good work making videos. I know a lot of people appreciate them.
Yeah, I wouldn't do it on a truck that was going to really be worked hard but this will be a weekend driver.
Anti-seize might be a good idea for the screw in ball joints, if you plan on keeping the truck for a while.
Hey man quick question, by any chance do you know where your cousin found that red pilar setup for the gauges?
I'm not sure. I do have a friend who is going to start producing really nice pillar pods for 1st gens. I should have one to do a video on in the next 6 months.
Do you happen to know if this setup will work on a d350 dually 2wd 1993?
It should work just fine. The d350 jas heavier duty rear springs and brakes but I believe the front springs are the same
@@decentgarage thank you, I ordered these before your reply lol had a good feeling about it, have a good day man!