Siraya Tech Resin Versus Fire // I DID NOT Expect Those Results!
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- Опубликовано: 6 мар 2021
- The Siraya Tech resins are great, and here we get to play with three more! FAST, SCULPT, and SCULPT ULTRA! Each has a different HDT, and we plan to test with fire. The model is the Sub-Zero mask from Mortal Kombat by @NikkoIndustries. Will the mask withstand the flames?
Siraya Tech Resins:
FAST grey: geni.us/fastgrey
SCULPT clear: geni.us/sculptclear
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Sub-Zero Mask from Nikko Industries:
www.nikkoindustries.com/produ...
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Duuude that Ultra is no joke. Whole new range of applications open up at those temps!
when do we get to work together angus?!
Did you come across the Integza videos with Porcelite resin - resisting jet engine temps
@@sugar4o bigger, you got to mention Integza! So maybe I have to mention Tesla for completeness!
Make some sweet, sweet, extruder parts
let us know and we could get you some. it is a composite resin and has extra high hardness
Probably should Try using a Oven next time. For True control of the surrounding temps.
Maybe use a oven like CNC Kitchen does.
Now that is TOASTY!
WOOOOW!!!! BEEN WAITING FOR THIS VIDEO!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH JOEL AND TEAM!! great job as always!!
the Ultra is impressive 😳 I just started to imagine different kinds of hotends printed from it 😎
Hi
Now that's a video I would like to see...
Stay till the end for an epic discussion between Joel and Sean
Now that we’re getting into fire, who wants to see Joel test those fire ball extinguishers for 3d printer fires?
I toured the studio that did the VFX for Mortal Kombat Annihilation in 2004. They had the props from the movie all over the studio like it was their greatest achievement.
“My arcade days.” That brings back memories - up,up,down,down,left,right,left,right,B,A 😂
Damn that production value gone up 200 percent and the new intro is perfect!
Love your videos man! Keep it up!!
"We have a new TV in the studio."
"Cool. Let's throw these resin bottles."
"Sure, that can't possibly go wrong."
This is totally science! Remember, "the difference between screwing around and science is writing it down." Granted, it's not the most *rigourous* - meaning accurate and repeatable - experiment ever. But it is definitely science.
I'd love to see these used in plastic injection molds making parts in ABS.
How long to de-mold, how many parts made before wear shows....all of the injection molding bid-ness.
Great video!
That would be a great video for sure! I'm also interested I seeing ABS injected into a sculpt ultra mold.
Regarding test options, you can print a standard dimensioned ISO test bar and do a load test yourself, assuming you have a means to control temperature in an enclosed space like... an oven.
HDT is calculated a very specific way under specific loads.
Thanks for testing these out!
I know you were outside, but it's still probably a good idea to wear a respirator when setting fire to this sort of stuff. We want you around for a long time.
High-5!
"Error Hot" is Joel's new wrestling stage name.
That's just too funny. I think you are channeling some serious Adam Savage today in both the "How the heck did I get here?" and maxing out the flame for the failure result. :) Well done!
When fire is involved in an experiment, it's always a good time
Hey Beavis, How toxic are those fumes?
Very toxic !!
I was just coming to post the same thing. I'm glad they were outside at least, but Joel had his face all up in those fumes as the resin was actively burning. That's bad news...
loved that outro! awesome video
That black, orange and yellow coloring on the ultra is really awesome looking. Almost like it was painted.
That was cool and interesting
Can Siraya Ultra be used as additive to increase temp properties of Siraya Blu, Fast or any other regular resin?
The threshold for that resin, indeed, can only be described as “insane!”
Hi Joel, Siraya Tech does not seem to have print settings for Sculpt Ultra White posted anywhere. There is a datasheet PDF URL titled “Sculpt - Ultra” on their website, but it’s linked to the regular Skulpt datasheet that says very clearly “For Sculpt only, not for Sculpt Ultra”. Confusing. Do you by chance have the optimum or manufacturer’s suggested print settings for Ultra specifically, or should I use the same settings as regular Sculpt? Thanks.
I could use some of that pre-heating for Siraya Tech Blu.
An injection mold test would be great.
Hi Joel, have you tested the porcelite ceramic resin?
Disconnect the gas bottle instead of turning off the burner. That way once you set the burner to the temp you want it'll stay the same since you disconnected the gas bottle.
Interesting, very interesting.
Damn! wasn't fast enough to enter the bonus stage
Real-world tests such as this are very informative, and you have a Best Buy upper-level wheeled stocking stairway in your driveway
A fire is absolutely not real-world lmao...
It depends on your neighborhood
@3D Printing Nerd, Just curious, what were your print settings for the Ultra? I literally bought some of it to start injection molding. I am going to make the molds from this instead of paying $$ for CNC molds ;)
I join the request, what configuration did you use @ 3dprintingnerd for Sculpt Ultra resin, I also want to see if it can be used to make plastic injection molds
@@yzak8 where did you guys purchase it from, I am having trouble finding the ultra version
Awesome test! I think it’s important to mention that unlike PLA/ABS, etc, SLA resin isn’t a thermo-plastic- meaning it won’t *melt* like PLA etc will. So the way that it reacts to heat is very different than what is happening with traditional FDM materials.
I love the smell of smoking resin in the morning.. Seriously though.. I would love to see you test again with a coating of Sodium Silicate (water glass).
would love to see the ceramic resin that Integza used
Print a ball bearing and run it with a motor...would be a cool real world stress, heat and deformation test.
Hi, Joel! Can you apply a thin layer of StarLight (the DIY material from kitchen components) and try to burn some models again?
FIRE!!! Pull strength test?
For all those suggesting using an oven, that won't really work, the temperature will drop when the door is opened to put the resin item in for testing.
The thermal mass involved, means heating back up will take some minutes, which is going to alter the testing. Plus just try to make video of what is going on inside an oven.
Far more practical, using a temperature controlled soldering iron or hot air station (you can get cheap all in one units). Far more controlled (and localized) heat source, and actually a practical use case (wires soldered to/thru custom plastics).
One of the coolest for heat resistance, I see what ya did thar.😄😉
Although it's not a feasible test at this time of year, I'd like to see how well these resins would handle spending a whole day in a hot car.
As this is a pricey resin. would it be just as effective if you mixed it with a resin that has a lower HDT? For example I use the Tenacious with the simple Clear 10% - 15% tenacious to 90% - 85% Simple clear and get the flexibility of tenacious without having to spend as much on resin.
I love your video and the content is very interesting Keep doing what you do
And thanks for all the details in your video I need every information possible for my RUclips channel
Hey Joel, quick tip: When using Mean Green or any other cleaner in the ultrasonic basin it's possible to fill the basin up mostly with water and then put your print in a closely sized ziploc for your print and fill the ziploc with the Mean Green and then drop it in the tank. Won't use as much cleaner and the clean up is a breeze, just toss the ziploc! The waves still go through the bag and get to the Mean Green/project. It worked on other things so pretty sure it would work with 3D prints! (I have a Peopoly Phenom and building big prints next month so it's a real saving with big things. Give it a try and let me know how it works for you!) -Jim OH! P.S. You can also definitely do this with a cleaned old plastic peanut butter jar. Might relieve tension that the bag could pop. Just FYI.
Oh my goodness GREAT idea!
Very nice video. Love it. Just bought a Phenom L Peopoly and I am looking for information about resins.
Impact testing!!
Parts cooling duct on prusa mk3s. I made one using WEISTEK 3D Printer Resin ABS-Like Resin. It was fine till I printed with abs. It cracked and warped. Wonder if one of those would do better
Attack of the show is coming back. They may want their intro back
Hey, is there a difference between using 4k resin on an 8k printer or is it necessary to use 8k resin on an 8k printer?
Joel, I know this is a year old so you may not see it but I would be interested in seeing how these react to being in an engine bay. I would also be interested in seeing how painting them with a heat rejection coating like cerakote would improve their thermal performance.
I just ordered my first resin printer after 10 years of fdm. You're awesome and I always enjoy your content
This video has both given me some ideas on how to fix an issue that I’ve recently come against, and sad at the same time. I’m working on a huge upgrade/rework of the Ender 5 Plus, and I need to print a part that can withstand temps up to 150C, as part of the upgrade is creating a heated build chamber. I should be able to print them on my Elegoo Mars Pro, but the Saturn would have been so much better. However, it is virtually impossible to get s Saturn, so I’ve given up.
GREAT VIDEO!
What about what is stronger resin or fdm when glued...
I have had that point where I wonder how I got there in life MANY times (man I miss my weird job). I would love to see this done with some filament prints. It would be an interesting comparison
If they're of different scale/mass, they aren't comparable.
This is interesting. I am actually looking at printing a cover for LED headlights in my car. They generate a decent bit of heat. I'm wondering how it will hold up under additional UV exposure from the lights themselves if it will fail immediately or how that will work.
Usually additional UV exposure to resin, over time, results in it yellowing. Wait, I *think* that’s what happens. Reach out to SirayaTech they would know for sure.
Awesome🔥❤👍
Wouldn’t a heat gun be a better way to test the HDT? I’d be interested to see if the last resin would last over 220c, which it seems it would!
Anyone else unable to find Sculpt Ultra for sale? Seen it on Amazon before but it’s gone now
Cool flamethrower test. Use an oven. Print some pillars and add weight to the top. It's not as cool as the flamethrower but the oven would provide really useful real world info from a trusted source (manufacturers data can be questionable).
Replacement parts for small engines or exhaust systems? Maybe start with the RC 2 stroke model plane engines? Or go right for that lawnmower in the background?
Would love to see some chemical or UV resistance testing.
Error! It is ERROR HOT! :)
I thought PLA was around 65C , definitely not below 50C but it looks like that in your graph.
Also you need masks of the exact same size for your test to mean anything BTW, more material takes longer to heat and melt ...
In doing it right, use an electric convection oven under tight control of a decent PID loop temperature controller and monitor the ambient/contact surface temperature of the print under test. This way insane hot spots from a flame do not muddy results, temperature of the part will be relatively uniform, and wild variations in thermal emissivity of the material under test do not skew the true temperature measurements of the material being tested.
No less, seeing FIRE thrown at them does make for good youtube popcorn fodder, it was amusing ;D :)
"This is INSANE" ~ Joel Telling (2021)
It would be interesting which HDT , A or B ? And which mechanical properties
Next project should be an 3D printed lawnmower robot
Hey Joel , been doing some modular rockets in Elegoo waterwash Black , then using aluminium foil tape to heat protect the nozzle.. direct flame thus avoided :) Hope you're well fella :) Resin smoothing works then hey ?
Hey it's time to print another turbojet!
There is a additive you can add to polyester to give it a FR rating (FR = fire retardant) … wonder if it would work with these uv plastics
chard
/CHärd/
noun: ; plural noun: ; noun: ; plural noun:
a beet of a variety with broad white leaf stalks that may be prepared and eaten separately from the green parts of the leaf.
Propane - Hank Hill would be proud
Dont do this at home kids!!!! lets Joey burnt the world!!! hahaha... a great thumbs up for the video Joel... i like your channel very much!
kind regards!!!
Can you Please make chains and hooks from them and see how much it can lift and for how long?
Maybe a test on a real world application like your golf club test? Something that test repeated use and friction/impact?
Light color will measure a lower temperature unless you compensate for it in the meter (if it has such an option).
It would prettying cool to make an exhausting tip that is custom looking and test it on car or truck anything with exhaust:) maybe a silencer for a gun!
Wow ! I didn't know that resin prints can withstand these temps. Here is my PLA deforming at 60C
And do yuo know the cost? U$$
Elegoo ABS-like resin vs Blu would be very interesting video.
But do you have any propane accessories?
It's getting hot in here~ McLove'n it~
Don't forget to wear safety gear! (i.e. masks)
How about using a settable levels electric bar heater to test the heat strength of the resin so then the settings of heat
be more controllable and not flames that time! Also the resin could maybe be made with ultra fine carbon powder in it to make it more fire proof?
A test to see if resin printed flat panels could be used to act as heat proofing of that home built printer encloser?
You could print a hot end for FDM :)
I would have used heat that didn’t involve direct flame. I think most applications wouldn’t involve a flame. If anything the heater block for a nozzle would have been a good test.
Fire is awesome!
Freeze and drop test
My Nintendo ID is Moar Fire, with a fire flower avatar. I'm actually not a pyromaniac, but this is cool.
cross linked thermosets don't melt they only vaporize, watch those extremely concentrated fumes
Well that was extremely unscientific, but neat regardless.
I just tossed a sculpt part into boiling water for less than a minute and it crumbled in my (gloved) hand with very light pressure. It was printed on an Elegoo Saturn with 3s layer time and had about 10 minutes of cure in any Anycubic Plus 2-1.
Something is either up with my cure, the water itself is the source of the issue, or the claim is based on a very light load. Further testing is needed on my part apparently.
That said, I may just be looking for the ultra for my needs. I need something that can remain slightly flexible with a temperature exposure of up to 110C. I don't currently know the effects on HDT when mixing with small amounts of something like tenacious however.
Maybe, colab with Stefan at CNC Kitchen for a more scientific testing plan?
Show the pre heating in a video please
Bevis and ButtHead- "Fire,, hur,.. hur... Fire! "
"Failure is ALWATS an option" - LOL
Thanks man.
Seems like a cheap toaster oven would be more accurate, but those only go up to 450F, maybe 500 on broil.
Hey who's 2015+ rally blue wrx in the driveway. You get an upgrade Joel? I'm not one to use resin but I watch for the RUclips gods to help you get to 500k.
This could be improved by using an electric element, load sensors, and maybe high speed camera to see what the filament/resin does when it deforms.
for all its campyness the first Mortal Kombat movie is still fun to watch