I have a Prusa Mk2 (now a Mk2.5) where the only stock parts from the original kit are (a) the vertical frame, (b) the printbed frame, (c) some of the threaded frame rods, (d) the stepper motors, and the (e) mainboard -- everything else has been replaced or upgraded.
Not that long ago I made a joke on reddit about people buying Ender 3s just for the aluminum. Two people responded that were _essentially_ saying "unironically yes"
I do like his attempt of making this better i mean it shows if you know how to make the machine better its gone print better but stil money wise its not worth it.
So sad I never had any of those, just the kind that thinks their subject and line of research is the center of the world, and everyone taking the entire course are just there to turn into his researchers and academics in general...
That’d be nice, but might be only possible at a private or boarding school. The teacher would sooner get fired than be allowed to do anything cool at most highschools in the USA lol.
11:30 There are commands for doing those two things, actually. The FORCE_MOVE command does exactly what it sounds like, and it ignores the homing state of the printer, as well as software endstops as far as I can tell. With it you could do say, FORCE_MOVE STEPPER=stepper_x DISTANCE=-250 VELOCITY=10 to ram the X gantry back 250mm, even if it does end up crashing into the frame. Afterwards, the SET_KINEMATIC_POSITION lets you tell "hey printer, you're at XYZ now" and after being issued, klipper allows you to move the printer normally as if you had homed it.
I once needed this command to recover a print job after idle timeout hit me at filament runout, but it has to be enabled in the config --> it was not there, so the print was a fail, but it was fun trying this stuff out and now i am prepared for it 🙂
Once you got your scanning settings good(found the right mode) you don't need the ruler, the scale will be in the metadata right when putting into inkscape or whatever floats your boat. (Inkscape is handy for turning scanner into a vector as well to import into tinkercad etc if you're just doing as simply as possible). For a bit irregular shapes that have some regularity still you can use paper plus dirty finger method of getting an impression too
I've used this technique before, and it's the only reason I still have a 12 year old USB scanner around. It works best for colourful or white objects because you'll usually have to leave the scanner lid off which turns the background black. It's possible to do it with black objects, but only if they're relatively flat or if you have some way of making the edges visible. Alternatively, you can trace around an object with a mechanical pencil or something that can get as close to the edge of the object as possible and then scan the page. It's less accurate, but useful for objects that won't scan well.
You need to take this all the way with a new lightweight hotend and cooling setup. As you said, the low mass is a major advantage. This isn’t about whether it’s sane to do it. You’ve done it and it was awesome! Go on!
Good to see you've had a change of heart about klipper. I was a duet fan boy until I discovered klipper, now my Duet's are driven with Klipper. It's just so much more configurable and the input shaping actually works.
First time I saw this printer I thought of using the parts to build a delta printer. Three times the same mechanism. I love this kind of project. Thanks.
All this stuff takes time to design, print, test. And unless you are really trying to get divorced, sometimes you have to spend a few mins with the family.
I know what tools a lot of us started with, at least those of us who hopped in before Prusa started making noise and all that, but I find it amazing that we now have things we can call "toy 3D printers" instead of "Where should I install the smoke detector?"
Great video Tom! I really like to see these types of videos from you. You really shine on doing projects like this. I know it must take a ton of work, but just wanted you to know I appreciate it! Looking forward to your next video
I think you can force the printer to move without homing, it's called something like force_move. If I remember correctly you should add a block [force_move] force_move = true I don't have to tell you why this is not an advisable thing to do, but it could have been helpful in the early stages of configuration
Little did I know after watching a couple of your RUclips videos i would actually get to mess around with one and decide to buy my own. I have already printed 6 things and its addicting lol im absolutely in love with it.
I love my easy threeD... Picked it up for like $40 and it's been a great little machine. Plan to use it to build a bigger machine when I get into a house
It would be interesting to make a project of making these upgrades printable on the printer itself. Well, that's what I'm going to do with my K9, as I have already pondered on such a project, and I'm thankful you decided to do it!
Yea. I spent an our trying to figure out why print head moving diagonally when I command to move on X axis. The reason was that FORCE_MOVEMENT mode doesn't respect my CoreXY kinematics. For simple kinematics, like that small printer has, it is OK.
Is great to watch this kind of videos!. Can you make a video of an upgrade of a Prusa MK1 (2012-2015) using the available technology? This will very interesting/useful to anyone who have one of these in a corner with dust 😂. Greetings from Brazil!
Wonderful video! I always love seeing bargain bin items souped up to be way more functional! I have fond memories of doing similar stuff to my Printrbot Simple back in the day haha.
i know this is probably silly but i would love to see a video with more improvements to this machine (hotend, extruder etc.). was very entertaining to watch. i like the 3d models to improve stability of the printer
Just for info: Klipper can automatically save the suggestions to your config. It also tells you the suggestions in the chart, including which shaper function to use. MZV is only really useful if the chart has one peak with a bit of side noise. In case of multiple peaks you tend to need ei or 2hump ei
Thank you, genuinely for changing your stance on Klipper, the early community was shit but the software is impressive IMO, I hoped to see you cover it at some point! Very excited about the future!
That trickwith the scanner and the ruler is just genius. I have never tought of it... THE BEST PART IS THAT THE IMMAGE IS NOT DISTORTED LIKE WHEN YOU TAKE AN IMAGE WITH A CAMERA:
There’s too much voron content and honestly it’s due a refresh. The new hybrid corexy system on rat rig 4 is shockingly good, nevermind the new fleun delta that outperforms vorons.
@@ps3customgamer Yea. I feel like the Voron brand is really over exposed when Ratrig deserves at least an equal amount of light. The VCore4 Idex really is looking hot.
Meh, one is fully open with thousands of mods and for one you need to by custom parts only ratrig sells(+ way fewer mods) ... I know what I prefer even if the newest ratrig looks good.
@@Daepilin Where did you get that you need custom parts only ratrig sells? Its fully open source. As for mods, what mods would you need exactly or actually do that Ratrig doesnt have the capability for? To me thats an ender 3 argument. Lastly, have you not found the Voron community a tad bit snobby? They also have a hard bias against chamber heaters for no real good reason.
Love this video, it's awesome and the work you have done is really cool to see! Personally, I would love to see a "Part 3" with an upgraded toolhead (at least some way of running a more conventional hot tend with better flow rate)
I remember a few years back when I upgraded my ender 3 with klipper, I was working from scratch. I used a combination of the official Klipper documentation and the Voron documentation to get everything set up with Fluidd as my frontend of choice. Wasn't that hard but definitely time consuming to figure out. Nice to see that they're making it easier for noobs to get into it with premade installs and images.
I had a week off around Christmas time a year and a half ago, and had just installed my BTT SKR E3 v3, it was brand new, and support for it's MCU wasn't even in the official Klipper branch. I also used Fluidd, but recently just dumped the same config into Mainsail, and it still works great. It's a steep learning curve, but I can't even imagine going back to Marlin.
You're insane for doing this but I love the engineering mindset of "we can fix this". I'm shocked at how good it got after what would be marginal upgrades if you didn't have to design everything from scratch yourself! 💪
love the flatbed scanner trick. Similarly I was making a printed, solid, non-flexible arm bracer for an assassin's creed cosplay for a friend, and needed to scale it to his arm, of course. took a couple pictures of his forearm held over a 1cm grid for a little paper cutter at a couple different angles and much to my amazement it worked really well and fits perfectly. but a forearm is just slightly more organic in shape that this printer, so it took a LOT of minor adjustments.
While this is not a recommended project; I do appreciate the informative lessons on upgrade mods and custom klipper setup insights. Both educational and entertaining episode. Part of me is wanting to see a custom design variation that uses linear rails and an easy swappable A1-style print head. It would be educational and fascinating from a engineering design and how it works aspect, but not necessary that practical, beyond an experimental, or learning tools aspect.
Ok, ordered and already printing your upgrade parts to start with :) I mostly just want a nice compact and collapsible travel printer, doesn't need to be the best quality. But any upgrades that don't make it significantly bigger are a bonus ofcourse.
As a fun project, this is cool, for any actual person wanting a printer, an A1 Mini currently is 200, so perfect printing vs saving basically nothing with so many fewer featues is kinda a hard sell. Actually in terms of having some fun I think the Rook is really good for that. Also in a similar vein: The 3d printed 3d printer where even the rails are 3d printed. Fun project.
Definitely fun “because we can” project. From a time & money perspective, the A1 mini, especially being on sale is literally the definition of a no-brainer. Thumbs up for the clever 2d scan workflow trick.
I did this with an old anet a8... I replaced more of the printer than I kept but it looks fairly stock. It's fastest was a sub 13 minute benchy which is just nuts for a wobbly old acrylic frame from the dark ages 😂 These kinds of projects are great fun
I would really love to see a full video of how to do custom clipper setups for any machine, defenitley a delta as I don't see much information surrounding the topic
I'm surprised you got confused by the installation part. Usually the first thing that comes up with installation instructions is KIAUH, which just installs everything important for you, you just have to choose the intefrace type and build the mainboard firmware.
I’ve been using a flatbed scanner for years. For whatever reason, reasons I’m nervous to look into for fear of altering on accident, my scans are 1 to 1 in scale. So I can scan, import image into Fusion (or whatever software), trace it in CAD, extrude/modify, slice it, print it. Works so well my friends think I know how to model stuff in CAD (I don’t) when I print them replacement parts for broken things. Might be worth doing a video on that if you haven’t already.
I just finished the blower and camera mount after converting my mega-s to biqu h2, skr3 and klipper. Smh yeah i could have bought a second for that upgrade but the modelling and trial error with tolerances for the adapters was the most fun
I think this is my favorite video you've ever done, lol. It really is a shame that the Klipper community is a bit toxic, hopefully that's gotten better. I think it's just a higher ratio of impatient nerdy neckbeards (of which I am one) without much of a tolerance for newbies. Really impressed with the custom parts, and the acceleration on that tiny chassis.
Unfortunately, things have not gotten better. I've seen it in the Klipper forums myself recently. Suggestions are shot down without any discussion on Pros and Cons, and there's this weird obsession with keeping the main project "pure". As an aside, Klipper C code is not regular C code. There's custom shell script compiler magic going on, and no one over there is even interested wants to change it. Even if flashing a new firmware to the MCU is a known pain point.
I admit you lost me on some of the terminology. One of your comments got me thinking. Maybe you should start a new play list to design a printer that can be printed like the old rep rap desire before they switched to metal printers. We could order prints from a print service and follow along. Would that be worth considering?
@@MadeWithLayers hmmm in that case I will check my scanners with a ruler... In some cases I was a bit off but I assumed it was the inaccuracy of the borders being kind of blurry.
As someone totally unfamiliar with 3D Printing, this has put me off for life. The sheer amount of terminology and part variations, software, hardware etc.. is just crazy. I simply do not have the time for this kind of learning curve.
I was wondering the same; "Wouldn't this cheap printer be a whole lot nicer after a few upgrades?" Very nice to watch someone executing that same idea.. so I don't have to 😉(I mean, I would if I had that same printer but I dont)
This is so awesome! The K1 was my first printer, and it was probably the most frustrating thing I've ever learned to use. But now I'm at 3 printers total and loving 3D printing!
Yes, maybe it's not worth it "upgrading" a printer like this, but I love to do this little projects, seeing it getting better and better, to turn a crappy thing into something decent even though it's not finacially wise. Loved the video, thanks.
i have a slight challenge for you, extend the printer by doubling x y and z dimensions with parts only prited in the printer it self, besides printer bed and the belts. bonus if you can print the new belts yourself with a flexible filament and i suggest upgrading to a hotbed sized for tze new dimensions so the prints will fit on and now the materials needing ahot bed can be printed.
Wow I was hoping for an episode where you tinker with this printer and may be config it or somethinig. But that is another level :D A lot of levels hahahah :P Love your work.
The 3D printer of Theseus: how much of it can you replace before it becomes a whole new printer?
I have one of those, it was sold as a bukobot clone. As long as theres an original aluminium extrusion in there somewhere its still the same printer.
I have a Prusa Mk2 (now a Mk2.5) where the only stock parts from the original kit are (a) the vertical frame, (b) the printbed frame, (c) some of the threaded frame rods, (d) the stepper motors, and the (e) mainboard -- everything else has been replaced or upgraded.
According to Creality, all you need is a bltouch
Here in the UK it would be compared to 'Trigger's Broom'..
Not that long ago I made a joke on reddit about people buying Ender 3s just for the aluminum. Two people responded that were _essentially_ saying "unironically yes"
This seems like it would make a great modding contest. It would be awesome to see one of these printers put out a 5 minute benchy.
I mean an ender3 currently holds the wr speedboat so definitly possible
Reminds me of the good old Ender 3 times. Upgrades far exceeding the cost of the printer 🤣
im still in those days😂 og ender 3 with a bambu a1
@@padraigvyes half the world (probably morel is still rocking ender 3s
I'm just about to to retire my two Ender 3 pros that have been highly modded and turn them into parts for other projects.
Never again, it was never worth it 😭
I do like his attempt of making this better i mean it shows if you know how to make the machine better its gone print better but stil money wise its not worth it.
This feels like something a quirky engineering teacher would do as a class project.
So sad I never had any of those, just the kind that thinks their subject and line of research is the center of the world, and everyone taking the entire course are just there to turn into his researchers and academics in general...
That’d be nice, but might be only possible at a private or boarding school. The teacher would sooner get fired than be allowed to do anything cool at most highschools in the USA lol.
11:30 There are commands for doing those two things, actually. The FORCE_MOVE command does exactly what it sounds like, and it ignores the homing state of the printer, as well as software endstops as far as I can tell. With it you could do say, FORCE_MOVE STEPPER=stepper_x DISTANCE=-250 VELOCITY=10 to ram the X gantry back 250mm, even if it does end up crashing into the frame. Afterwards, the SET_KINEMATIC_POSITION lets you tell "hey printer, you're at XYZ now" and after being issued, klipper allows you to move the printer normally as if you had homed it.
I once needed this command to recover a print job after idle timeout hit me at filament runout, but it has to be enabled in the config --> it was not there, so the print was a fail, but it was fun trying this stuff out and now i am prepared for it 🙂
Dougcode ?
14:23 commenting specifically because of the scanner idea, never thought of that and it's awesome! Totally need to remember this for future projects
Once you got your scanning settings good(found the right mode) you don't need the ruler, the scale will be in the metadata right when putting into inkscape or whatever floats your boat.
(Inkscape is handy for turning scanner into a vector as well to import into tinkercad etc if you're just doing as simply as possible).
For a bit irregular shapes that have some regularity still you can use paper plus dirty finger method of getting an impression too
@@lassikinnunen or just measure one dimension, use scale option in any CAD and you have 1:1
I've used this technique before, and it's the only reason I still have a 12 year old USB scanner around. It works best for colourful or white objects because you'll usually have to leave the scanner lid off which turns the background black. It's possible to do it with black objects, but only if they're relatively flat or if you have some way of making the edges visible. Alternatively, you can trace around an object with a mechanical pencil or something that can get as close to the edge of the object as possible and then scan the page. It's less accurate, but useful for objects that won't scan well.
Holy moly, you're running the machine harder than I do my Rat Rig V-Core 3 ;)
You need to take this all the way with a new lightweight hotend and cooling setup. As you said, the low mass is a major advantage. This isn’t about whether it’s sane to do it. You’ve done it and it was awesome! Go on!
Good to see you've had a change of heart about klipper. I was a duet fan boy until I discovered klipper, now my Duet's are driven with Klipper. It's just so much more configurable and the input shaping actually works.
I don't if much more configurable . I can do pretty much anything klipper can on my duet wifi.
That duet is much more expensive than any klipper style Mainboard though. @@garramiro
He got a chnge of heart because they threw a bag a him with a euro sign.
First time I saw this printer I thought of using the parts to build a delta printer. Three times the same mechanism.
I love this kind of project. Thanks.
I wish you made videos more frequently. I know it's hard but I really look forward to them
All this stuff takes time to design, print, test. And unless you are really trying to get divorced, sometimes you have to spend a few mins with the family.
I really LOVE that trick with the flatbed scanner... will try that for modelling smaller spare parts! 👍
I know what tools a lot of us started with, at least those of us who hopped in before Prusa started making noise and all that, but I find it amazing that we now have things we can call "toy 3D printers" instead of "Where should I install the smoke detector?"
"I know what im doing" command, lmao, I need that.
That belt cutting tool satisfying af.
Great video Tom! I really like to see these types of videos from you. You really shine on doing projects like this. I know it must take a ton of work, but just wanted you to know I appreciate it! Looking forward to your next video
He beat me to it!! I was considering buying this exact printer just for the sheer fun of upgrading it.
this is the apogee of the "take a somewhat bad printer and making it good " movement, it's a great competitor to the ender 3 on that manner
Ender 3 sucks the market is flooded and there’s no clean upgrade path beyond fixing the extruder and heatbreak.
I think it's just fun to take something crap and make it better.
I think you can force the printer to move without homing, it's called something like force_move. If I remember correctly you should add a block
[force_move]
force_move = true
I don't have to tell you why this is not an advisable thing to do, but it could have been helpful in the early stages of configuration
Exactly. When force_move is active you can use SET_KINEMATIC_POSITION to set the current position.
Nice! I have been running an easythreed x2 for 3+ years. Just adjusted belts. Its a workhorse, glad to have this future roadmap!
Little did I know after watching a couple of your RUclips videos i would actually get to mess around with one and decide to buy my own. I have already printed 6 things and its addicting lol im absolutely in love with it.
I love my easy threeD... Picked it up for like $40 and it's been a great little machine. Plan to use it to build a bigger machine when I get into a house
I have wanted to make a "sleeper build" out of this printer ever since that first video you had on it, this seems to be a pretty similar concept hahah
I greatly appreciate this kind of project. Stealth builds with jenk are fantastic.
It would be interesting to make a project of making these upgrades printable on the printer itself. Well, that's what I'm going to do with my K9, as I have already pondered on such a project, and I'm thankful you decided to do it!
Klipper does actually have a force movement setting.
Yea. I spent an our trying to figure out why print head moving diagonally when I command to move on X axis. The reason was that FORCE_MOVEMENT mode doesn't respect my CoreXY kinematics. For simple kinematics, like that small printer has, it is OK.
Designing a whole new tiny cheap printer sounds like a great project you'd knock outta the park.
Next step - linear rails, linear motors, Dragonfly direct extruder, camera's, multilateral splitter.
Jokes aside, a great build !
That would be funny, the Ship of Theseus moment, gotta find a place to glue the Easythreed logo at least!
Tool changer... 4th and 5th axis...
These are some of the coolest kinds of 3D Printing videos.
Just came from the setup video and this already existing makes me happy
Is great to watch this kind of videos!. Can you make a video of an upgrade of a Prusa MK1 (2012-2015) using the available technology? This will very interesting/useful to anyone who have one of these in a corner with dust 😂. Greetings from Brazil!
Wonderful video! I always love seeing bargain bin items souped up to be way more functional! I have fond memories of doing similar stuff to my Printrbot Simple back in the day haha.
Not bargain it you have to get the pi, new steppers, power source, list goes on ...😂
I just love (and laugh) at how the little guy just moves around while printing x'D... That's awesome.
i know this is probably silly but i would love to see a video with more improvements to this machine (hotend, extruder etc.). was very entertaining to watch. i like the 3d models to improve stability of the printer
Thoroughly enjoyed the previous video & this one. awesome stuff!
This is the type of content I love
I really enjoy this kind of project, seeing how far you can take a cheap product.
Just for info: Klipper can automatically save the suggestions to your config.
It also tells you the suggestions in the chart, including which shaper function to use.
MZV is only really useful if the chart has one peak with a bit of side noise.
In case of multiple peaks you tend to need ei or 2hump ei
Thank you, genuinely for changing your stance on Klipper, the early community was shit but the software is impressive IMO, I hoped to see you cover it at some point! Very excited about the future!
Excited to see Thomas get into Klipper!
We really went down the rabbit hole on this one. Excellent video, i really enjoyed it. Thank you 👍
incredible work as always, and I'm really glad you ended up enjoying klipper after all!
That trickwith the scanner and the ruler is just genius. I have never tought of it...
THE BEST PART IS THAT THE IMMAGE IS NOT DISTORTED LIKE WHEN YOU TAKE AN IMAGE WITH A CAMERA:
Excellent video. I do like the out of the box thinking. Well done.
Wow thank you for this upgrade project
I really love videos like these, they're so fun to watch
Hell yeah Tom, this is some good stuff.
Glad you gave Klipper a try, it's awesome!
11:38 I got around this problem with a force move section in the config file and set kinematic position command
give that Voron V2.4 some love and maybe convert it to toolchanger, that's worth at least 2 videos (1. build and 2. comparison with the XL)
There’s too much voron content and honestly it’s due a refresh. The new hybrid corexy system on rat rig 4 is shockingly good, nevermind the new fleun delta that outperforms vorons.
@@ps3customgamer Yea. I feel like the Voron brand is really over exposed when Ratrig deserves at least an equal amount of light.
The VCore4 Idex really is looking hot.
Also, Tom is too salty to care about voron
Meh, one is fully open with thousands of mods and for one you need to by custom parts only ratrig sells(+ way fewer mods) ... I know what I prefer even if the newest ratrig looks good.
@@Daepilin Where did you get that you need custom parts only ratrig sells? Its fully open source.
As for mods, what mods would you need exactly or actually do that Ratrig doesnt have the capability for? To me thats an ender 3 argument.
Lastly, have you not found the Voron community a tad bit snobby? They also have a hard bias against chamber heaters for no real good reason.
this is so fun - you are such a talented engineer!
Holy moly how good quality is your camera! Sharp as a razor man!
The hot end assembly is unique and interesting in its capability. I too would like to see a bearing upgrade of some kind.
what a cute little a1 mini wanabe!❤
Love this video, it's awesome and the work you have done is really cool to see! Personally, I would love to see a "Part 3" with an upgraded toolhead (at least some way of running a more conventional hot tend with better flow rate)
I remember a few years back when I upgraded my ender 3 with klipper, I was working from scratch. I used a combination of the official Klipper documentation and the Voron documentation to get everything set up with Fluidd as my frontend of choice. Wasn't that hard but definitely time consuming to figure out. Nice to see that they're making it easier for noobs to get into it with premade installs and images.
I had a week off around Christmas time a year and a half ago, and had just installed my BTT SKR E3 v3, it was brand new, and support for it's MCU wasn't even in the official Klipper branch.
I also used Fluidd, but recently just dumped the same config into Mainsail, and it still works great. It's a steep learning curve, but I can't even imagine going back to Marlin.
You're insane for doing this but I love the engineering mindset of "we can fix this". I'm shocked at how good it got after what would be marginal upgrades if you didn't have to design everything from scratch yourself! 💪
Mind you the BTT Pi CB1 USES A SPECIAL OS IMAGE AND NOT THE STANDARD RASPBIAN TO KLIPPER PROCESS. Had some serious headache with that on my voron
Yup, its an Allwinner H616 SOC that will definitely not boot Raspberry images.
love this kind of project! thank you for sharing!
Add the line [force_move] to your printer.cfg file to enable you to command motor movement with unhomed axes in Klipper (11:25)
Poor Fabrikator Mini gave up its steppers only to be tossed aside.
I still have mine and it runs at MRRF every year.
love the flatbed scanner trick. Similarly I was making a printed, solid, non-flexible arm bracer for an assassin's creed cosplay for a friend, and needed to scale it to his arm, of course. took a couple pictures of his forearm held over a 1cm grid for a little paper cutter at a couple different angles and much to my amazement it worked really well and fits perfectly.
but a forearm is just slightly more organic in shape that this printer, so it took a LOT of minor adjustments.
While this is not a recommended project; I do appreciate the informative lessons on upgrade mods and custom klipper setup insights. Both educational and entertaining episode.
Part of me is wanting to see a custom design variation that uses linear rails and an easy swappable A1-style print head. It would be educational and fascinating from a engineering design and how it works aspect, but not necessary that practical, beyond an experimental, or learning tools aspect.
Ok, ordered and already printing your upgrade parts to start with :) I mostly just want a nice compact and collapsible travel printer, doesn't need to be the best quality. But any upgrades that don't make it significantly bigger are a bonus ofcourse.
I would look at building a Positron if you want a small travel printer
@@nickfury1279 I would if it wasn't so expensive. I bought my P1S for less 😛
It's amazing what input shaping can do with floppy geometry.
there IS actually a homing override (its needed for Z hop on homing for example), and manually homing is possible as well.
As a fun project, this is cool, for any actual person wanting a printer, an A1 Mini currently is 200, so perfect printing vs saving basically nothing with so many fewer featues is kinda a hard sell.
Actually in terms of having some fun I think the Rook is really good for that.
Also in a similar vein: The 3d printed 3d printer where even the rails are 3d printed. Fun project.
Definitely fun “because we can” project. From a time & money perspective, the A1 mini, especially being on sale is literally the definition of a no-brainer.
Thumbs up for the clever 2d scan workflow trick.
I did this with an old anet a8... I replaced more of the printer than I kept but it looks fairly stock.
It's fastest was a sub 13 minute benchy which is just nuts for a wobbly old acrylic frame from the dark ages 😂
These kinds of projects are great fun
This was fun! I was wondering whatever happened to this absurd little thing. But there it is! lol neat
I would really love to see a full video of how to do custom clipper setups for any machine, defenitley a delta as I don't see much information surrounding the topic
I love this video idea - well done for implementing such a great idea - I love making small cantilever printers op with Klipper
Loved the video Thomas ! thank you
That's a really neat project 🙂Thanks for the video.
if the usb c cable was power only how did your mouse work
I wanted to see all the parts printed on the machine itself, just like old times!
I'm surprised you got confused by the installation part. Usually the first thing that comes up with installation instructions is KIAUH, which just installs everything important for you, you just have to choose the intefrace type and build the mainboard firmware.
I’ve been using a flatbed scanner for years. For whatever reason, reasons I’m nervous to look into for fear of altering on accident, my scans are 1 to 1 in scale.
So I can scan, import image into Fusion (or whatever software), trace it in CAD, extrude/modify, slice it, print it.
Works so well my friends think I know how to model stuff in CAD (I don’t) when I print them replacement parts for broken things.
Might be worth doing a video on that if you haven’t already.
You do know how to model if you can make a part from a 2d scan.
Ah is this that Pambooh A1 everyone is talking about?
I just finished the blower and camera mount after converting my mega-s to biqu h2, skr3 and klipper. Smh yeah i could have bought a second for that upgrade but the modelling and trial error with tolerances for the adapters was the most fun
I think this is my favorite video you've ever done, lol.
It really is a shame that the Klipper community is a bit toxic, hopefully that's gotten better. I think it's just a higher ratio of impatient nerdy neckbeards (of which I am one) without much of a tolerance for newbies.
Really impressed with the custom parts, and the acceleration on that tiny chassis.
Unfortunately, things have not gotten better.
I've seen it in the Klipper forums myself recently. Suggestions are shot down without any discussion on Pros and Cons, and there's this weird obsession with keeping the main project "pure".
As an aside, Klipper C code is not regular C code. There's custom shell script compiler magic going on, and no one over there is even interested wants to change it. Even if flashing a new firmware to the MCU is a known pain point.
we need more of this
So i got confused at the rolling bearings part so yomade the width of the sliding block smaller so it fits tight to the rods
Now this is quality content :)
I loved the video. Thanks Thomas.
I admit you lost me on some of the terminology. One of your comments got me thinking. Maybe you should start a new play list to design a printer that can be printed like the old rep rap desire before they switched to metal printers. We could order prints from a print service and follow along. Would that be worth considering?
Incredibly fun and interesting video! So happy to see this little guy get turned into a hotrod. Haha
No way, you actually did it :) I said I'd try to mod mine after I did the video on it but never got round to it :)
i've been using a 2d scanner to model stuff for a long time, but putting a ruler on there is genius! 👍🏼
You don't need a ruler with the flatbed scanner. Knowing the image resolution and the DPI you can get the exact physical size from it.
Theoretically, yes, but I've had scanners that ended up consistently being a couple percent off.
@@MadeWithLayers hmmm in that case I will check my scanners with a ruler... In some cases I was a bit off but I assumed it was the inaccuracy of the borders being kind of blurry.
As someone totally unfamiliar with 3D Printing, this has put me off for life. The sheer amount of terminology and part variations, software, hardware etc.. is just crazy. I simply do not have the time for this kind of learning curve.
3d printing is nothing like this. It's super simple now, look into Bambu lab printers.
ruclips.net/video/nb-Bzf4nQdE/видео.html
:)
@@MadeWithLayers Cool, I'll give it a go.
@@MadeWithLayers Still pretty daunting but at least now I understand some core concepts which is a good foundation to start from.
Thank you for making this
I was wondering the same; "Wouldn't this cheap printer be a whole lot nicer after a few upgrades?"
Very nice to watch someone executing that same idea.. so I don't have to 😉(I mean, I would if I had that same printer but I dont)
der beltsplitter war ne schön idee :)
Oh boy.
Can't wait to do all of this to mine.
EDIT: except for Klipper.
This is so awesome! The K1 was my first printer, and it was probably the most frustrating thing I've ever learned to use. But now I'm at 3 printers total and loving 3D printing!
Wonderful content as always
Yes, maybe it's not worth it "upgrading" a printer like this, but I love to do this little projects, seeing it getting better and better, to turn a crappy thing into something decent even though it's not finacially wise. Loved the video, thanks.
i have a slight challenge for you, extend the printer by doubling x y and z dimensions with parts only prited in the printer it self, besides printer bed and the belts. bonus if you can print the new belts yourself with a flexible filament and i suggest upgrading to a hotbed sized for tze new dimensions so the prints will fit on and now the materials needing ahot bed can be printed.
Now this is a cool printer!
watching it rotate on the table while benchy-ing was hilarious
Wow I was hoping for an episode where you tinker with this printer and may be config it or somethinig. But that is another level :D A lot of levels hahahah :P
Love your work.