Temperature resistance and fine resolution are the reason to have at least one Resin printer in your workshop. Ordered Mono X, will be nice companion to my two FDMs.
I love how fast the Anycubic photon Mono X prints large things, one of the sweet things about an LCD(preferably monochrome) Resin 3D printer is how little if any extra time it takes to print something big and full volume compared to a traditional plastic printer. I've really had a good time printing on the photon mono X, I'd recommend you not use paper towels to clean the vat/fep though, they say it can scratch it. Micro Fiber cloth and maybe kleenex are the way to go because they're much softer and less likely to scratch the fep. Also you can keep the shipping screen protector on to help protect the screen in the event that the feb ruptures.
@@KentoCommenT It's pretty incredible. I have made gunpowder which melts most steel containers but when I used standard resin it survived. The only drawback is that the polymers experience heat expansion and can crack explosively.
One major thing missed: the orientation of the printed layers matters. You're only testing the layer bond strenghth because everything was printed vertically and you're testing vertically. You need bolts printed along the long axis. This will afford you tests that aren't hampered by layer bond strength which has all kinds of variables like cure time, layer thickness, etc.
@Ahmad Muhsin Yes I agree, but not so big as with FDM, where you have 4-5x (400% or more) difference. And I had only 1 test specimen, not too representative, just rough information.
@@MyTechFun if the sla printing orientation showed a 20% difference I'm curious what this test would show, considering you're showing FDM is 18% stronger in the video. Siraya Tech also has made Tenacious which is another very strong resin.
Translucent resin prints are so beautiful, but the printing process is very messy... Thanks for the tests, I was not expecting the resin to be so strong
I understand this is 2 years old. I appreciate the information that was collected in this even though it is small scale testing with application centered around fastening hardware. I wanted to say I believe the difference between the two resin samples was the cure time. If you expose resin to uv light for extended periods of time it can increase the hardness and how brittle it is. It can also cause yellow discoloration, and if left to cure too long, will lead to break down of the hardened resin material itself. I hope that solved the possibly solved difference within your resin samples.
Thanks! Was looking for a good temp test on resin for making some new fog light lenses on our Supra Mk2, and now I feel safe regarding the temp resistance! Great video!
first things first: very good work. keep it up! congrats and thanks! pro tip: set your cameras to manual focus and then choose where the focus should be. never work on auto-focus! it has always it's "own head", it will change, because it's alway hungry for sharpness.
Very nice comparison, I especially like the complete table at the end. Are the results from your PLA vs ASA bolts video also comparable to this one? If you plan to do another part, maybe Nylon and PC would also be interesting candidates. And I hope you had something easily cleanable in the oven below the filaments. :)
PLA vs ASA comparable tests, except shear stress test (in latest video I used two sided method, pure shear stress test). Also, different PLA brand (Gembird vs Prusament). Temperature of air was now 9-10°C and in ASA video 15-16°C. It may have some effect, but minimal, because specimens spend out max 10-15 minutes.
The warm color shift in the second Blu set is due to overcuring, either through overly long layer cure settings or in post during the final cure. Transparent resins continually shift toward yellows the longer they're cured. A "properly" cured piece barely has any signs of this yellowing, and the cool blue tint of resins like Blu helps to offset this effect. I placed "properly" in quotes because like everything, there's nuance here that's worth our consideration. There are benefits to slightly overcuring and undercuring, and carefully controlling these thresholds is rather important to this type of experiment. Regardless, I really enjoyed the video and look forward to your continued endeavors! Cheers.
Are you saying adjust the tolerance in the design to give more leeway? Or something you can do when slicing/printing? I’m interested in exploring functional parts with SLA but concerned about varying shrinkage.
I think if you added something like Monocure Flex 100 resin with the sirya Blu you will get better results as the Resin would be less brittle. It's also transparent so it wouldn't effect print times.
On the first test, I noticed an issue. You printed with the PETG laying down on the bed meaning you were pulling along the walls, not layer lines. With the Blu you were pulling the layer lines apart. Can't really fault one for doing better or worse as it wasn't a direct comparison as this will render all of the tests basically invalid.
Have you tested any of the resin parts after they survived the temperature test? Curious if just the color changed...or if they got stronger/weaker after the heat treatment. Another great video as usual.
Disculpe, ha probado la resistencia de los tornillos de resina tras someterlos a procesos de calor? Muchas resinas de poliuretano aumentan mucho sus resistencia tras procesos de horas con calor. Intentare hacer mis pruebas
These tests were really cool but if your samples had a known cross-sectional area you could calculate the stress in the materials. This would let you translate your results across different sizes and shapes.
something like this (the smallest one 0.3-30 Nm) www.banggood.com/1_5-1000NM-Digital-Torque-Torsion-Meter-Electronic-Wrench-Tester-With-External-Torque-Adapter-p-1370003.html?p=KY220152814037202009
I definitely find uv resin 3d more promising as we are in 2023. Not sure why people print nuts & bolts with lack of proper scientific knowledge to proof something over utube, this goes with time.. meaning more resin choices are out there today, the good ...the bad and the experienced resin mixers... So you can't really do that with the ... Think about it🤣
This is not a viable comparison. The layers on all prints should be the same direction. You have the Resin layers parallel to the thread, the layers of the PETG are perpendicular to the threads. You should print two sets of PETG, one set with parallel layers the other with perpendicular layers. Odds are the perpendicular set will be stronger.
It's likely because the resin is transparent. The UV light will travel farther in transparent resins causing a slight over-exposure in the x/y direction. To prevent this it's good to mix in an opaque resin like Siraya Tech fast abs-like witch is an opaque grey.
@@NateUE i use the resin all the time, along with other clear/transparent/translucent resins, & if you follow direction you will get +/-.0003in tolerance. Unless you are over-exposing or adding features that alter the geometry, then you will be noodle-scratching.
@@J0SHUAKANE I am really struggling with siraya blu on my mars 2. it prints 'fine' don't get me wrong, but small detailed features come out sagged yet crisp. I'm trying to print a flange with 7/8-20 threads perpendicular to the build plate and the threads come out asymmetrical, with the tips 'falling' with gravity. I started with sirayas config file and have tried exposure settings from 2.5 secs to 6 secs with the most crips results at 2.8 secs but still has the sag. i ordered some black dye so I hope that helps but I gotta believe I can get results with blu as good as the cheap water washable I print. do you have any tips that could get me going?
@@scott5006 how warm is the room you are in? When i use siraya blu i crank the heat up to about 80-85f. I didnt understand why, but this video taught me a lot if you havent seen it ruclips.net/video/ht4tbCiFxeM/видео.html I just ordered some tuff resin from monocure that came with a cmyk pigmemt set, hoping that it will be easier to print with. Siraya blu may be the hardest resin, but its also the hardest to print with.
Good test, but incomplete. How about exposing them on moisture for several weeks, then try again. I'm pretty sure the PETG will outperform siraya blue.
You've made two videos like this now and you've failed to print the bolts properly each time. The test is pointless if you have to resize each bolt and weaken it in the process. Get it right or don't make a video at all.
The reason why the nut won´t fit on the resin prints, is probably due to a lack of cleanup after the print. Uncured resin was probaly still in the thread and got cured (post-cured).
I don't know, not washing the prints before post-cure seems like a pretty huge oversight from a company offering SLA printing services. It's far more likely that they don't have their printers calibrated to produce dimensionally accurate parts. 'Functional' prints probably aren't their primary market.
Thank you for this interesting video. I have interest in a test that you could do easily. Is Siraya resin more resistent to scratches than the washable resin? I have parts in Elegoo washable resin and they scratch so easily with the fingernail, and leave a white mark.
Awesome. This is such cool stuff! I can't wait for my resin printer to arrive to try some Siraya Blu and Tenacious for flexibility as large threads are mostly what I want to print.
After watching this I wish I knew what properties change after the heat treatment on the resin printed bolts and nuts. I bet it's greatly different, Maybe stronger maybe not
Excellent video! Do you think that regular resin would be strong enough for keyboard keycaps for daily use? Or should I go with Siraya Tech Blu? Or maybe meet in the middle with ABS-Like resin? I've been watching resin strength tests and you seem like the best guy to ask. Thanks.
What I expected. It's a big advantage of PETG in mechanical applications that it deforms rather than break suddenly. Resin, if not reinforced with fibre, is brittle. It's just not a good material for mechanical parts, unless of course when combined with fibre. But 3D printers can't do that yet.
I wonder if the resins can be heat treated much the same way steel is. Could you do the test pre bake and post bake at different Temps to see if there are any strength gains after being in oven.
I am very late here, but I wanted to add something. I tested the elegoo standard gray resin in an autoclave at 121°C and 18 psi for 15 minutes. The print cracked, discolored, and was brittle to the point of crumbling.
you should have printed both the PETG and the resin parts in the same orientation... The fact that the resin parts were printed upright makes them weaker in the z axis.
The color difference between the Elegoo and the Photon printer pieces is very interesting. The color hues that occurred after the melt test, are similar to the color in the finished Photon peices. Heat seems to bring out more of a green hue. It suggests that the Photon printers print at a higher temperature to the Elegoo. Not just curing the resin, but kind of cooking it as well.
I am blown away by the temperature performance of the resin samples!
Temperature resistance and fine resolution are the reason to have at least one Resin printer in your workshop. Ordered Mono X, will be nice companion to my two FDMs.
I love how fast the Anycubic photon Mono X prints large things, one of the sweet things about an LCD(preferably monochrome) Resin 3D printer is how little if any extra time it takes to print something big and full volume compared to a traditional plastic printer.
I've really had a good time printing on the photon mono X, I'd recommend you not use paper towels to clean the vat/fep though, they say it can scratch it. Micro Fiber cloth and maybe kleenex are the way to go because they're much softer and less likely to scratch the fep.
Also you can keep the shipping screen protector on to help protect the screen in the event that the feb ruptures.
Thought the only benefit of resin was great details but now even a functional hobbyist like me can have a look into it with that heat resistance.
@@KentoCommenT It's pretty incredible. I have made gunpowder which melts most steel containers but when I used standard resin it survived. The only drawback is that the polymers experience heat expansion and can crack explosively.
One major thing missed: the orientation of the printed layers matters. You're only testing the layer bond strenghth because everything was printed vertically and you're testing vertically. You need bolts printed along the long axis. This will afford you tests that aren't hampered by layer bond strength which has all kinds of variables like cure time, layer thickness, etc.
PETG was printed horizontally, resin vertically. I already tested effect of printing position, SLA is not sensitive to this as FDM printing.
@Ahmad Muhsin Yes I agree, but not so big as with FDM, where you have 4-5x (400% or more) difference. And I had only 1 test specimen, not too representative, just rough information.
@@MyTechFun if the sla printing orientation showed a 20% difference I'm curious what this test would show, considering you're showing FDM is 18% stronger in the video. Siraya Tech also has made Tenacious which is another very strong resin.
Translucent resin prints are so beautiful, but the printing process is very messy... Thanks for the tests, I was not expecting the resin to be so strong
And it looks like there will be 3rd match too (Tenacious by Siraya)
seems not, only the Syraya blue is strong but fragile like cast iron vs iron.
Thank you for making these videos. They are very useful to the community.
Awesome video making & great idea for comparison my friend. Love all the data collection method & result presentation!😁👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Great video. Am also glad you show a temperature comparison as I need resin to make parts for my fdm printer that will be close to the nozzle.
I understand this is 2 years old. I appreciate the information that was collected in this even though it is small scale testing with application centered around fastening hardware.
I wanted to say I believe the difference between the two resin samples was the cure time. If you expose resin to uv light for extended periods of time it can increase the hardness and how brittle it is. It can also cause yellow discoloration, and if left to cure too long, will lead to break down of the hardened resin material itself. I hope that solved the possibly solved difference within your resin samples.
Thanks! Was looking for a good temp test on resin for making some new fog light lenses on our Supra Mk2, and now I feel safe regarding the temp resistance! Great video!
15:03 Any chance you have tried doing a mechanical test on the "cooked" resin screws?
Done (in short video)
The siraya tech blu changes color when curing for a long period of time and in general with time.
The green tint fades
The green tint is from over hardening in post processing? That would explain why it snapped earlier IN torque test
@@DonRaynor no the green tint is normal and it takes a long time for the prints to turn fully pool blu
Great video and thorough testing! Thanks for putting these together!
Hvala Igore.Thanks Igor.
Nema na čemu. Pozdrav
first things first: very good work. keep it up! congrats and thanks!
pro tip: set your cameras to manual focus and then choose where the focus should be.
never work on auto-focus! it has always it's "own head", it will change, because it's alway hungry for sharpness.
Thanks for tips, I am still learning that part :-)
Very nice comparison, I especially like the complete table at the end. Are the results from your PLA vs ASA bolts video also comparable to this one?
If you plan to do another part, maybe Nylon and PC would also be interesting candidates. And I hope you had something easily cleanable in the oven below the filaments. :)
PLA vs ASA comparable tests, except shear stress test (in latest video I used two sided method, pure shear stress test). Also, different PLA brand (Gembird vs Prusament). Temperature of air was now 9-10°C and in ASA video 15-16°C. It may have some effect, but minimal, because specimens spend out max 10-15 minutes.
Could you do these tests with the Siraya Tech Blue Vs ABS Like resin?
Attributes Attributes Attributes. Great video definitely thumbs UP
What about the impact resistance after baking? I wonder if that could have any effect on the impact resistance of resins.
Great video as always 👍
God Idea with the heart test!
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😊
Very high quality test. Maybe too few samples, but very good from engeniering pointy od wiev
great stuff, thanks for your efforts testing this stuff
just got the photon mono sq, looking foward to trying it out.
The warm color shift in the second Blu set is due to overcuring, either through overly long layer cure settings or in post during the final cure. Transparent resins continually shift toward yellows the longer they're cured. A "properly" cured piece barely has any signs of this yellowing, and the cool blue tint of resins like Blu helps to offset this effect. I placed "properly" in quotes because like everything, there's nuance here that's worth our consideration. There are benefits to slightly overcuring and undercuring, and carefully controlling these thresholds is rather important to this type of experiment. Regardless, I really enjoyed the video and look forward to your continued endeavors! Cheers.
I'm wondering if it is possible to print sealed structures from flexible resin? Something like a corrugated hose?
As I mentioned, I don't have experience (so far) with flexible resin.
You need to adjust for tolerance thats why the nut was too tight. I usually go with 0.5 to 0.7mm difference and they screw on perfectly.
I agree. But exact value depends a lot of 3D printer.
Are you saying adjust the tolerance in the design to give more leeway? Or something you can do when slicing/printing? I’m interested in exploring functional parts with SLA but concerned about varying shrinkage.
That's a pretty strong resin, at least compared to the generic one from previous videos.
I would be curious if the siraya techs build engineer resin would do better in that test with bolts.
Will be interesting to know if after the oven the resin has changed its physical property.
I already tested something similar: ruclips.net/video/2eMKx1d8Jjo/видео.html
I think if you added something like Monocure Flex 100 resin with the sirya Blu you will get better results as the Resin would be less brittle.
It's also transparent so it wouldn't effect print times.
I just tested adding a Tenacious, the video: ruclips.net/video/JpTSzpRQ_T4/видео.html
@@MyTechFun nice, watched the whole vid. Looking forward to the resin showdown!
Love your work and presentation….
excellent in-depth test!
Thank you for your hard work!
Check out the phrozen nylon. That resin seems interesting.
what happens if you put the SLA nuts in a PLA cover to keep it in place and try again the torque test?
you should upgrade the impact test ,with a bearing at the rotating point ...it would give you more exact result
There are two ball bearings inside hammer
@@MyTechFun "There are two ball bearings inside hammer"
That hammer swung very smoothly. Thanks for the excellent video.
¡Gracias!
Thank you, I am glad that you liked the video! List of similar videos: www.mytechfun.com/videos/fdm_vs_sla
Did the heating in the oven make the resins stronger?
I was curious about that too: ruclips.net/video/2eMKx1d8Jjo/видео.html
@@MyTechFun oh nice, thank you :)
On the first test, I noticed an issue. You printed with the PETG laying down on the bed meaning you were pulling along the walls, not layer lines. With the Blu you were pulling the layer lines apart. Can't really fault one for doing better or worse as it wasn't a direct comparison as this will render all of the tests basically invalid.
I already tested the effect direction to strength of SLA printing. It is almost same.
Great job
Have you tested any of the resin parts after they survived the temperature test?
Curious if just the color changed...or if they got stronger/weaker after the heat treatment.
Another great video as usual.
Good thinking. I have those 3 bolts. Which test would you like me to do with them? Off camera, I'll just add the results in description.
@@MyTechFun Which ever test you think would be the best to see a difference.
I didn’t see where the results of heat treated bolts, but I would love to see if that has an affect
Does the heat treament increase its strength?
With PLA yes, for PETG or Blu, not sure, didn't tested it.
Disculpe, ha probado la resistencia de los tornillos de resina tras someterlos a procesos de calor? Muchas resinas de poliuretano aumentan mucho sus resistencia tras procesos de horas con calor. Intentare hacer mis pruebas
Great tests, thank you!
i use drying for PETG on 80C and is good. what PETG U have>😅
Be carefull with 80°C, this is above HDF temperature for most of PETG materials. I have a several brands, but in this test Prusament.
You should've used resin that's actually made for stresses like Tough-resin
Not deforming after being blasted with 200 Degrees is absolutely insane for a plastic that was 3D printed.
Nice work. keep go on.
These tests were really cool but if your samples had a known cross-sectional area you could calculate the stress in the materials. This would let you translate your results across different sizes and shapes.
I was thinking the same thing, but he used m6 bolt & nut so they should be standard sizes (I'll have to check)
Köszi. Tanulságos volt.
És készül a 3. mérkőzés is.. Tenacious vs ABS
The photon ones are green ish because they where over cured
Siraya has a 6% shrink volume what is the best way to counter this thanks ?
I am not sure, does it shrink same in x,y,z directions? Print a calibration cube and measure it, so next time you can calculate that.
Thank you for your video, very important you information
The Second batch of bolts are green because they exposed them to UV curing for too long, making the parts more brittle.
N o, no uv ligth in tne over, the became green because they "cooked" at 200 celcius , mybe some kind of aneiling or really coking
you must test with the "Siraya Blu v2 Nylon" version, its much stronger.
Could it be that transparent resins are more stronger due that they get deeper UV light cure?
Did you figure out shrinkage% for siraya blue?
pls test resin vs pc filament
I already tested 3 types of resin and filaments. If I will find some interesting resin, I will test it against PC
which one causes less cancer?
PETG :-)
why are parts printed with photon s more resistant than parts printed with mars?
Probably because of the higher temperature (more greenish color also shows higher T)
@@MyTechFun time exposure are the same in both printer?
@@carmelomusarra7585 yes. Photon S works on higher temp.
I really like this video. Great work
There is a third match too (Tenacious vs ABS)
@@MyTechFun Thank you I will watch it
What torque wrench are you using
something like this (the smallest one 0.3-30 Nm) www.banggood.com/1_5-1000NM-Digital-Torque-Torsion-Meter-Electronic-Wrench-Tester-With-External-Torque-Adapter-p-1370003.html?p=KY220152814037202009
Hey, have you seen the new 3DMaterials SuperPP resin? It's more than twice as strong as Blu! :O There's a video about it on RUclips.
Not yet, sounds interesting.
@@MyTechFun ruclips.net/video/2ut2IG-0yH0/видео.html
Expose the green parts to sunlight for an hour or so, they will become blue.
I definitely find uv resin 3d more promising as we are in 2023. Not sure why people print nuts & bolts with lack of proper scientific knowledge to proof something over utube, this goes with time.. meaning more resin choices are out there today, the good ...the bad and the experienced resin mixers... So you can't really do that with the ... Think about it🤣
This is not a viable comparison. The layers on all prints should be the same direction. You have the Resin layers parallel to the thread, the layers of the PETG are perpendicular to the threads. You should print two sets of PETG, one set with parallel layers the other with perpendicular layers. Odds are the perpendicular set will be stronger.
I already tested this, SLA is not sensitive to layer direction as FDM printing
Fun experiments!
A firearm that fails with PETG will just unravel and stop working.
A firearm that fails with Siraya Blu will turn into a frag grenade.
I bet the dimensions were off on the elegoo mars prints because they left anti-aliasing on ;)
It's likely because the resin is transparent. The UV light will travel farther in transparent resins causing a slight over-exposure in the x/y direction. To prevent this it's good to mix in an opaque resin like Siraya Tech fast abs-like witch is an opaque grey.
@@NateUE i use the resin all the time, along with other clear/transparent/translucent resins, & if you follow direction you will get +/-.0003in tolerance. Unless you are over-exposing or adding features that alter the geometry, then you will be noodle-scratching.
@@J0SHUAKANE I am really struggling with siraya blu on my mars 2. it prints 'fine' don't get me wrong, but small detailed features come out sagged yet crisp. I'm trying to print a flange with 7/8-20 threads perpendicular to the build plate and the threads come out asymmetrical, with the tips 'falling' with gravity. I started with sirayas config file and have tried exposure settings from 2.5 secs to 6 secs with the most crips results at 2.8 secs but still has the sag. i ordered some black dye so I hope that helps but I gotta believe I can get results with blu as good as the cheap water washable I print. do you have any tips that could get me going?
@@scott5006 how warm is the room you are in? When i use siraya blu i crank the heat up to about 80-85f. I didnt understand why, but this video taught me a lot if you havent seen it ruclips.net/video/ht4tbCiFxeM/видео.html
I just ordered some tuff resin from monocure that came with a cmyk pigmemt set, hoping that it will be easier to print with. Siraya blu may be the hardest resin, but its also the hardest to print with.
Good test, but incomplete. How about exposing them on moisture for several weeks, then try again. I'm pretty sure the PETG will outperform siraya blue.
You've made two videos like this now and you've failed to print the bolts properly each time. The test is pointless if you have to resize each bolt and weaken it in the process. Get it right or don't make a video at all.
I would like to see Blu/Tenacious mix (80/20) test. That might decrease its brittleness.
Yes. YES. YES!
Siraya today recommend me to try Tenacious too. But not sure about a mix ratio (yet)
@@MyTechFun usually 20-30% tenacious , try that perhaps
Great job 👏
Temp is more than 210 C but blue resin still ok ? Does it got some smell when reach that temp, sir?
I noticed too, so I measured it ruclips.net/video/2eMKx1d8Jjo/видео.html
The reason why the nut won´t fit on the resin prints, is probably due to a lack of cleanup after the print. Uncured resin was probaly still in the thread and got cured (post-cured).
I don't know, not washing the prints before post-cure seems like a pretty huge oversight from a company offering SLA printing services. It's far more likely that they don't have their printers calibrated to produce dimensionally accurate parts. 'Functional' prints probably aren't their primary market.
Thank you for this great video and the measurements. !!
Ooh, thanks! I was wondering about the Siraya Tough vs filaments - and this is great. Thanks again!
Great Video. Appreciate your efforts!:)
Thank you for this interesting video. I have interest in a test that you could do easily. Is Siraya resin more resistent to scratches than the washable resin? I have parts in Elegoo washable resin and they scratch so easily with the fingernail, and leave a white mark.
Visual quick test: more resistant, but not measured yet.
@@MyTechFun Thanks
Cool
Awesome. This is such cool stuff! I can't wait for my resin printer to arrive to try some Siraya Blu and Tenacious for flexibility as large threads are mostly what I want to print.
Great job! Very fun to watch!
How about nylonX vs polycarbonate Carbon Fiber
The PETG was printed horizontally and the Blu was printed vertically? Wouldn't that impact the performance?
I already tested printing orientation with SLA printers, no significant effect (there is a video about it too)
That green looks to me like blue resin overcured
I wonder why the nut could carry much more load than the bolt?
After watching this I wish I knew what properties change after the heat treatment on the resin printed bolts and nuts. I bet it's greatly different, Maybe stronger maybe not
Apparently if you cure the resin under UV light at 60 C it increases its strength greatly
Excellent video! Do you think that regular resin would be strong enough for keyboard keycaps for daily use? Or should I go with Siraya Tech Blu? Or maybe meet in the middle with ABS-Like resin? I've been watching resin strength tests and you seem like the best guy to ask. Thanks.
Keyboard keycaps have almost no load, I think you are fine with almost any resin
What I expected. It's a big advantage of PETG in mechanical applications that it deforms rather than break suddenly. Resin, if not reinforced with fibre, is brittle. It's just not a good material for mechanical parts, unless of course when combined with fibre. But 3D printers can't do that yet.
There is a maker on youtube who did it, inserting fiber between each batch , really interesting
I wonder if the resins can be heat treated much the same way steel is. Could you do the test pre bake and post bake at different Temps to see if there are any strength gains after being in oven.
I already did, no big difference
Great job!
Nice video, For fdm toughness you should consider comparing the resin prints to FDM nylon and nylon-X.
I am moving slowly to testing stronger materials too. Soon Tenacious vs ABS bolt test will be finished.
Could you test Siraya Blu against Monocure TUFF?
Not sure, next one will be Blu+Tenacious mix vs ABS and then testing different Blu + Tenacious mixtures.
спасибо тза подробный расклад
Hi, can you tell me what settings did you used with the photon s ? layer, exposure time, etc ... thanks, nice comparison
Sorry, I don't know them, I ordered these specimens from external company.
@@MyTechFun oh I see, thanks for the answer 👍🏻
The voice change at 12:47 xD
So, I failed. I said "screw" and I tried to change it in video editing. Looks without success :-)
I am very late here, but I wanted to add something. I tested the elegoo standard gray resin in an autoclave at 121°C and 18 psi for 15 minutes. The print cracked, discolored, and was brittle to the point of crumbling.
you should have printed both the PETG and the resin parts in the same orientation... The fact that the resin parts were printed upright makes them weaker in the z axis.
I already tested this before this video, there is a difference (SLA printing orientation), but very small.
Another great and informative video. Thanks very much.
The color difference between the Elegoo and the Photon printer pieces is very interesting. The color hues that occurred after the melt test, are similar to the color in the finished Photon peices. Heat seems to bring out more of a green hue. It suggests that the Photon printers print at a higher temperature to the Elegoo. Not just curing the resin, but kind of cooking it as well.
Thats classic overexposure. Resins tend to yellow when cured for too long. Resulting in the greeny hue