Resin Printing LIKE THE PROS!
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- Опубликовано: 29 июн 2024
- Resin 3D Printing is fun AND produces some amazing results. Level52 Studios do resin 3d printing at a very professional level, and have some great tips to keep you printing!
Level52 Studios:
www.level52studios.com
Broken Anvil Miniatures:
www.brokenanvilminis.com
00:00 Intro
02:31 Tip Number 1
05:13 Tip Number 2
08:45 Tip Number 3
12:05 Tip Number 4
14:34 Tip Number 5
19:44 Two Common Mistakes
#3dprinting #resinprinting #level52studios
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The point on light bleed is nuts, I never even considered it... learnt tonnes! Might dabble with resin again...
RIGHT! wth
Imma need to see more videos with these guys. Amazing stuff!
Absolutely agree! They worked well together. Toss an podcast-type intro/outro onto it and it's ready for upload, too.
Agreed! Loved this format and information! Love hearing from someone that has been doing it for years, working with commercial machines!
Yes, this guy has wisdom, I agree.
Right Pigmenting your resin?? Did not even know that was a Thing!
Can we have a podcast with the two of you? I will send cookies to you if you do because that would just be too much fun!
This is the kind of video that showcases Joel’s awesome character as well as his love of 3D printing.
Very good tips. I'd like to add a 6th one if I may:
- Keep a log of how long your prints are right after each print finishes. This can be tallied up so you can get a better feel for when you can expect your LCD will to need to be replaced based on it's average life expectancy. It will also help you identify if there might be other problems with the machines if screens start failing faster than expected. I just keep a sheet of paper stuck to the side of the printer with a magnet or masking tape.
wow, these are such useful tips! you can easily notice when he speaks from experience! well done!
Thanks for the shout out! :)
NO Thank you for all your great Tips!
FWIW you picked up another sub from a new resin printer
@@Coffeeology glad to have you! :)
Just a comment about auto support (because we do a slicer for resin printers with an auto-support function ;))
Auto support algorithm is quite challenging and yes, manual support is the way to go. But about auto supports adding extra supports where it may not be needed (red areas in Preform, the one writing this comment has been using the Form1->2 for a while ;)) the reason is for stabilization and keeping the model in position as much as possible, reducing the risk of layer shifting and issues during the peeling process with large layers that are in an overhang. Professional users know all of that, but a lot of users (beginnersà)have no clue about suction cups, lifting speed, etc. Then for automatic support, you have to be conservative and then, protective for the model. But yes, that's true, manual support is the best :)
I think auto support is generally a good place to start for most people and then remove supports manually. I found this t be the optimal way to go for my prints.
My buddy Joel and my buddy Chris talking printing, excellent!
Great information but I don't necessarily agree with the issue with warm water for all parts. For a polyurethane acrylate (PUA) you can expect a Tg of roughly 65°C. I believe the temperature range on a typical home water heater is roughly 49-60°C which is close, but not quite at the Tg at the high end. Using warm water(not boiling) for a few seconds should be enough to soften supports on miniatures enough to allow for easier removal of supports without risking the integrity of the overall model unless there are a lot of fine details or extremely thin walls. The bigger issue with water is that depending on the amount of urethane oligomers, crosslinkers, and the exact type of acrylate used, you might find yourself with a polymer that swells when left to soak in polar protic or aprotic solvents such as alcohols, water and acetone. And if your model isn't cleaned very well, water may end up making things worse for removing any residual resin. Personally, I prefer a heated chamber held at about 50°C for 2-5 minutes. Generally speaking, it should be enough to dry any residual solvent while softening thinner pieces - such as supports - just enough to allow for easy removal before final curing. If I had my way, I'd dry things in a vacuum oven at those temperatures for longer before removing supports and curing but vacuum ovens can be pricey, I don't tend to let my prints soak in any solvent and per the SDSs I've read, there does not appear to be helper solvents so there shouldn't be much solvent to remove if things are done properly.
And generally speaking, it is always a good idea to use a secondary container for potentially flammable solvents in an ultrasonic cleaner. It also makes changing/recycling spent solvent easier. You'll probably be okay with ~70% IPA/Ethanol so long as that other ~30% is water but that would definitely have been a no-go during yearly safety inspections when I was in an academic laboratory environment. And if you intend to keep things close to your expected percentages, I'd also recommend an airtight secondary container as alcohols are fairly hydroscopic and can absorb a fair amount of atmospheric water faster than one might realize.
I think pigment kinda gives the ambient occlusion effect that makes small detail looks so incredible, where as the L52 guy mentioned, light isn't wrapping around your edges and smoothing everything out visually. Great tip.
Level52 seems to be a goldmine of knowledge. Even here in germany I still learn and feel how they operate.
I repair printers as my job and got TONNES of knowledge from 3DPN, MakersMuse and others.
I love this community and I love the content that is available for free.
Great content, love seeing Resin tips and How to's Keep these coming Joel !!!
Wow, tip 1 is enough to get a like and sub. NO ONE on youtube has said anything even similar. Thank you very much for the pro tips.
Really great and informative video. Level52's work is amazing.
This was super helpful Joel. I kind of hope you do more of these
Great job Joel!! Happy Thanksgiving!
I was wondering why he was "checking twitter" during an interview but notes on his phone make a lot more sense! 😂
Thanks for the vid! 😃
Quite useful tips! Thanks, man!
Great Informative video! Thx 4 sharing it! Superb Tips!
Great video guys. Thank you both.
Look like this is Joel's coming out: he likes to do podcasts 😂
Good news: I loved this visually enhanced podcast and I hope we'll be seeing more of these.
Great tips from Chris. I have also found that leaving resin in a vat too long may result in separation that won't mix anymore. I guess that I just need to print more.
For curing, I put a strip of UV LEDs in a spiral around the inside of a plastic bin from the dollar store. Total cost 8.00$ US. Cures perfectly.
Great video! I've been thinking about adding pigment to resin to blend custom colors, so tip 1 was perfect for me. I had never even thought about light bleed though and that was very interesting. I loved the tip about using a sonic toothbrush when post-cleaning prints too!!
Chris and Level 52 do amazing work.
Love this video!❤️ I'm working on getting a resin printer soon so trying to learn as much as I can. This will really help me get a good start. I'd love to see a part two. Five more tips and tricks for dummies. 😂🤣
Nice time just before the verrf begins
Joel your the man
I'm glad I saved this video for later to watch, this was so informative, thank you! more like these please. :perfect:
You got it!
Great tips, thanks.
thanks Joel
Chris is awesome. Great episode! 👌🏼
Thanks, man! I was hoping you would get the chance to watch this one!
What we need is an AI support generation where people like level 52 can send their good supports and we can have the AI learn from it. We could probably get a good auto support software in 6-12 months tops. As a side note if you have been conditioned by apple to think that things should just work you really haven't used Apple products enough as a power user. I did tech support for a company that uses just apple products as well as places that have done mixed and just pc and the number of support tickets was about the same for each.
Yeeeeessssss we need a podcast Joel
"Don't be afraid to fail". Well... Resin is expensive. I'd rather fail as little as possible.
Heh, that's a very good point :)
Joel, I would love to see a podcast where you bring in other 3d print guests. You could bring Uncle Jessy and Makers Muse on. Would be great!
PLEASE!!! Make a podcast. I turned this on while working, it was awesome. I'd love to learn more about 3D printing while I work. No reading/videos required.
Great tips! But I've been fooled.... it was supposed to be 5 tips, but it was more like 30 tips..... gotta watch again to take all the notes. Thx
I've always read online that it's dangerous to use flammable liquids in an ultrasonic cleaner. I have always taken this seriously, but had my doubts about the actual risk factor. I think I actually have a better method for the Ultrasonic cleaner though. I use water in the cleaner, then submerge my parts in a separate sealed plastic container. Place the alcohol container in water and run the ultrasonic cleaner. The sonic waves penetrate thin food containers no problem. This makes it very easy to do 2 stage cleaning directly in a single ultrasonic cleaner. The first alcohol container is used for the primary wash, and remains dirty. The second wash container will stay fairly clean, and rinse off the remainder of the resin left on the model. I get crispy clean prints in black resin with zero uncured surface resin.
JUST THE TIP!!!
Awesome content well presented. You guys work well together. Hope to see more collaboration! High five!
Thanks!
The social distance hi-5 is now the "Sky-5"! Great video!!
It doesn't necessarily have to do with the pigment, it has to do with the photoabsorber which pigments can also be, but you can also use yellow solvent dyes as photoabsorber. With a proper adjusted resin chemistry, you will also get crisp prints with transparent resins.
thats the pro speaking!
True!
With opaque resins does the inside cure? Chitubox, depending on the part seems to do a good job by itself. After auto supports on the part I'm working on now I added two more supports. The K stands for "KEY". I looked it up. with regard ti pigmenting the papaer test also works to check you haven't gone to far.
I don't even do resin printing (YET!) but loved the video. Keep it up Joel!
Great video! I've been considering a resin printer for purchase sometime in the next year (or five) and these are some great tips for those of us comfortable with FDM but know nothing about SLA.
The prices are tumbling waiting is the way to go!
@@AlbertoMartinez765 That, and I don't have a great spot to put a resin printer in the house just yet...everywhere I can think of is missing one or more of the important things: good ventilation, a concrete floor or carpet/rug I don't care about ruining, stable temperature/humidity, and easy access to water for cleaning purposes.
Wow this is amazing knowledge dropping thanks for sharing. Now I just need someone to buy this new form3 I’ve got so I can spend it on resin and pigment for my Epax 156 lol
I've left a Siraya Mix in my vat since before Christmas. Printed a part the weekend with no problems.
The problem is it can mess up your FEP I left my stuff for 2 weeks once ruined the fep.
I made a custom 108W(54V 2A) UV cure light using 18 405nm Luxeon UV U2 smd leds spaced on a custom aluminum backed PCB attached to a heatsink. It can cover an absolutely huge area for curing multiple prints and large resin prints.
Thank you guys Right after I watched the video I went to clean out the vat xD
Well done :)
I have an ELEGOO Saturn and I home my build platen EVERY print.
PERFECT TIMING! Time to stir my vat 😁
What type of pigment do you use? Alcohol, water-based or something extra special?
99% IPA is easy to find now. If you don't mind paying three times the price it was a few months ago. I'm having equal success using denatured alcohol from Lowe's.
I was waiting to here if any one was using the denatured alcohol, its easy to get and cheep.
10:10 This seems to be the opposite of my experience. 70% is all over the place. It's 95+ that I can't find anywhere. Interesting that he said to use 70, I've always heard to use 95+.
Literally everything I was about to say. 70% is everywhere, and I used to use 91% (the highest easily available where I am)
Nice I'm happy that most of the tips I've known, I've tried curing in water in my home made curing station and I didn't see any noticeable difference.
I use 99% isopropyl for cleaning(I do have ultrasonic) but I didn't use it as I don't print often enough to make good use of it and also alcohol will evaporate.
The point for the hotwater support removal, I tend to completely disagree with him, Yes it makes the print softer and can lead to problems, but in most cases for minis, I prefer to have worse dimensional accuracy than to have a part snap off with the supports, I had fingers/feet/weapons just get removed with the supports. About the recalibration after every few prints, It really depend on your printer, I used to do it, but now my anycubic doesn't seem to get out of alignment that often.
I have a vat full of resin for over 6 months, Last week I decided to print something just to test if it is still ok, it was, I tho regulary stir it, I don't tend to put it back in container as this is way too much effort and 30% of the resin is wasted most of the time on the funnel,vet, and so on and it is messy.
What I would like to know is where we can get pigments compatible with resins in Europe, prices are kinda insane here, I'm kinda using only the anycubic resins as they are the only affordable option, recently I bought 5 litres of resin for $110 which is $22 per liter of resin, while most others cost 50 euro for 500g.
14:26 I haven't had a big get stuck to a print but I did leave some dirty alcohol out in a tray to evaporate/cure and a bug crawled into that and got stuck.
can you elaborate more on what's involved in calibrating your resin printer
Could you do a video on photon file validator
This great program works with a certain file that is available with chitubox and it allows you to do auto supports then it finds all of the big islands that would make your print not perfect and tells you exactly were they are the you can just super easily fix it and you have a perfect print with almost all auto supports
WOW just this video I learn more than last 6 month testing ! do you have milk shake 3D printer ? any review ? I follow that printer for so long but i cant see any
It could be a good Q&A 3d printing nerd potcast where you could ask about printers..
23:05 This is basically what the latest version of ChiTuBox is doing now where it shows you little preview marks for where auto would put the supports, then you can just follow that or put them where you want.
One thing to watch out for in the fine print make sure the water doesnt effect the resin, putting in water can cause it to turn to mush. This appears to be mainly with the "simple" or "quick" resins. Also do your own research since the company reps do not know much and the community members may just say its no big deal.
The awesome thing about cnc and 3d printers is, they do exactly what you tell them to do. The bad thing about them is, they do exactly what you tell them to do.
Great video. Interesting that you can’t level off the fep with the Sonic 4K mini. Curious how they feel about Epax nFep.
Woo-hoo! Level52 Studios backed my statements up! I have written in your comments before that I level my beds every... single... time... and he speaking of Resin printing just backed up my statements about FDM printings. For the far heavier and larger FDM machines level your bed before every print. Does this sound excessive? Then don't but come back and reply "You were correct", "I can't believe it, but you were right" etc. Always heat your hot end (nozzle) and hot bed (build plate) to the exact same temperature you intend to print at and then level. Heating first will remove the expansion of the aluminum, steel and glass from the equation which means it will be exactly as you set it.
Your filament which is not lost to incorrect bed level after heating will thank me as will you! It takes 1 minute to 14 minutes to level the printer, but moments to many hours for a print to fail due to failures of adhesion due to improper bed leveling. So my 1 or so minutes of leveling after heating to build temperatures every print will save you time and filament (meaning money). - NOTE: your printer and/or components may have problems which are creating the issue instead, so leveling eliminates 1 possible cause, helping to eliminate some possible future failures.
Level every time for at least non-resin printers.
Added a BLTouch early on. Yes, I'd gotten to the point where I could level the bed probably in my sleep (level it with everything up to temperature). Now I have it set very close manually, and I check manually every time I work with the buikd plate, such as taking it off to clean it. I (well, the printer) auto levels as part of each print. That adds maybe two minutes? But the results are worth it.
This one gets a two thumbs up from me. ESPECCIALY the Pigment your resin. Would love to know what types of pigment can be used because Monocure's CMYK pigment is out of stock..
*NEVER* sand the build plate of the *form 3* and *form 2* , that will offset everything and destroy your build plate.
Also, can Chris tell us what formlabs resins are pigmented enough and which to pigment how? And also: Chris, can I pigment multiple segments of Color Kit resin without pigmenting the whole cartridge?
We only use third party reasons. We use Digital Forge resins for the Form.
@@level52studios61 Okay, thank you! But how do you use them with your Form 3?
Thanks for the knowledge, what type of pigments, link please.
Awesome tips. Q: do you use alcohol in your ultrasonic cleaner? I don't heat my cleaner, but got a lot of viewer pushback about using alcohol in the cleaner as a potential fire hazard. Thoughts?
You can put water in the ultrasonic tank and put alcohol in a smaller thin plastic container. The ultrasonic will pass through and you'll lose less alcohol over time because it won't evaporate away and be far safer.
Thanks for this video... thou i still haven't got a 3d printer i have learned a lot! But i still don't understand why callibrating is done with a piece of paper instead of the resin container? Could someone please explain?
As a total mood to resin, what do I need to look for when shopping for colours to add to the resin?
Would like to see this podcast in 2022, when we have Lychee Slicer =)
I just purchased a Elegoo Mars Pro, I am confused as to how I edited an exposer time for a 3d Model using Chitubox, Because when I open for example The rook (.ctb) and make changes to exposure times and click save, it completely messes up the 3D model... So then I went and instead opened the Rook (.stl) I changed the exposer in there and it appears to retain my settings but then when I open up the (.ctb) in Chitubox it still has the old exposer settings, So I am wondering do you only change the (.stl) file exposer and is it normal the (.ctb) doesn't change? Very frustrating software to use i've been google for days and can't find a decent how to Chitubox edit exposure video. Thank you for any assistance you can provide.
Currently using denatured alcohol it’s amazing thoughts on that chris?
Did they mention what degreaser they used? And what's the mixing ratio? Was it regular water or distilled? I'm getting more 99% IPA and would like to make it last and work better with this degreaser added.
What about cleaning water washable resin with water? Would cold/room temp water not be advised?
The water doesn't refract the light, it just displaces the oxygen out of the part.
Sonic mini 4k almost seems like it has a small indent on the print area.
I really need your help!
my cr 6 se is not extruding or feeding correctly!
I have to manually feed it into the printer for it to print smoothly.
It is also printing in little dots if i do not force the filament in!
what resin do they use to cast their molds? homemade or market product?
what about water based resin?
i have a good question. What about patenting or copyright stuff? Like did you have to get permission for dc and marvel based 3d prints and how did you go about that. I would love to print more stuff but i wouldnt be allowed to sell them because of copyright
I thought one was supposed to empty the vat and clean it when done printing? (And then straining the used resin to remove any cured resin pieces and putting it back into the jug)
I have heard of people using silicon and or teflon spray on the FEP film so the parts release . Anyone know if it is good or bad ?
Yes! We do that and it works incredibly well.
Level52 Studios can you point us towards the one you use, and how you use it.
3-IN-ONE Multi-Purpose PTFE Lubricant, 4 OZ www.amazon.com/dp/B00J25JDDY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-K6GFbKTAME36
16:40 I'm familiar with Flint Read method, but you're saying you actually level the print head with open resin in the vat?
my biggest problem with too many supports is the resin runs down the supports and onto the surface of the part. While the resin doesnt CURE on the surface of the object it does dry out and harden creating some HEAVY sagging and rippling on the surface thats a PAIN IN THE @$$ to clean.
Less supports give it less resin running onto the surface of the part.
For the mixing of the resin you could have a print file that just prints nothing for 10 minutes but goes up and down
Kind of a waste of electricity though.
@@3DJapan the fuck , the anycubic photon consumes 40 w peak with the lamp on at full, which it wouldnt be. one cycle would consume at max 6.7Wh which with a cost of 14c per KWh makes it to a total cost per cycle to 0.1c compared to the cost of the resin 20-80 dolars a bottle and lets say the tank is half full you have between 5-20 dolars of resin, do the matth does it fucking matter. dumbass
@@3DJapan sorry for insulting you but what you said was stupid af, and i cant stand that shit
@@3DJapan you waste more electricity in the wiring of your house than by doing this evereday
@@3DJapan Dude, that's only a few watts at most. It's such a negligible amount of power.
Thank you for the tips, they've been very informative.
Not sure if this is the right place to ask, but with a 3.5k-ish budget for resin printing, would a phenom noir be better or 4~5elegoo Saturn's? I would like to dive deeper into making statues of around 1/4 scale (human figures) but can't decide between the noir or getting a couple of the new saturns/monoX.
What would you choose with the budget choice?
The Saturn’s all day :)
@@level52studios61 thanks for the answer! I'll be ordering when the saturn is available to order i guess... hopefully within this month.
Please do another of your lion hair styling videos like an abs or pls head model with hair.
When you mention pigmenting the resin, what pigments are you using?
Was wondering that as well
Monocure
We show the pigments on screen!
@@Aidenn23 I was referring more to what they are. Alcohol based, solvent based, oil based, etc...
I should have worded the question better
Where can you find Monocure pigments? They don't seem to be available anymore?
Do you need to over tint for white?
Do you remove support before or after curing?
for those without a Formlabs printer, Preform really is amazing, its a damn shame its exclusive to there printers
How much curing time on the uv light?
Did I miss remove supports pre-cure or post?
Was always told to not to use IPA in the ultrasonic cleaners due to the danger of being flammable. Is it safe to do with 70% IPA?
use a Ziploc bag for your IPA and dip that bag in the water
Joel! Joel! FlashForge dropped a new IDEX printer! Review it! It’s the FlashForge Creator Pro 2. I’d love a review before I invest maybe.
Wait - what? No way!
@@3DPrintingNerd mhm, check sub 1k IDEX.
I might get a share of 2500$ soon and I’m looking to get two of em for my buisness workshop.
So yeah! I’d love a review.
Btw, if ya can’t find it on flashforge’s shop, it’s under the creator pro series, then you click it scroll down and see the creator pro 2.
👍👌
Tip from my experiences: There are water washable resins now. Avoid them like the plague! Every one of them I've tried has had very poor mechanical properties even with minimal immersion in water, hollow models can crack or even crumble after post cleaning, sometimes months down the road. Bad bad bad!
Tip number two: Build your own MSLA print curing chamber if your on a budget. Buy a used large pot, pressure cooker, or large metal pail from a thrift store. Find UV LED strips online with the proper wavelength, make sure the backing is insulated as it will come in contact with the metal. Install to the inside of the pot in a spiral pattern, done!
I do like the ease of use with PreForm but their tree structure is average and has NO ability to modify it, only the tip. Also the internal supports has gotten more restrictive. Wish there was a happy middle ground