Those red marks of the tyvek are actually to line up any vertical 8” proper lap sceme, and you are only suppose to staple the edges and not the field cause it creates unnecessary penetrations which ou don’t want, but if you do every penetration is supposed to be taped or caulked. And I would recommend getting the proper tyvek flashing, straight flash and flex wrap, flew wrap works great for the corners because it flexible and it seal them complety. Other than that you did an alright job
I have a 20 year old house. I removed some siding to check something. Much of the siding had green algae on the backside, which means the wind was regularly blowing water behind the siding. I also noticed the staples holding the house wrap were rusted, and many were rusted away and no longer holding the wrap. I saw black stains on the wrap for each staple hole. I pulled back the wrap and the OSB was black and soggy where each staple was, so soft I could push a screwdriver all the way through the OSB. I replaced all the OSB and new wrap. CONCLUSION: Staples rust away quickly and are a path for water to go in and rot the OSB. Do NOT use staples. They lead to rotted OSB.
Inspector needed to approve roof for my home he recommended Tyvek house wrap to be applied first homeowner can do it he did not want to budge on Roofing gutters first till the house raped with good energy efficient exterior before siding house wrap. watching your video help us a lot with are property 2700 square feet of it.we made sure we overlapped the top part by 6in with Tyvek and also using Tyvek tape even though there's other products out there that inspector said we can use but we went with Tyvek.inspector came back walked around property gave us thumbs up Now house is ready for roof gutters downspouts.I want to thank you very much for having this video out there and I enjoyed watching your video. for someone who never tyvek before house wrap you made it easy for us to do it ourselves and like I said inspector passed it right away.one thing inspector said you didn't need to tyvek the whole entire house Hahaha... I replied yes I think I had to he replied why I said to keep you off my back he chuckled everything's fine now thank you again God bless you hope to see more videos take care.Melvin Lara falcone.
Just wrapped my cabin last night, by myself using the truck headlights. With a four foot level and using the marks and lettering on the wrap it was hung perfectly level and plum which helps when installing
The key to doing house wrap alone is using cap nails, not staples. And you should invest $15.00 in a j-roller for the flashing tape to get out the air and flatten the rinkles out for better adhesion to Wood.
just finished wrapping my garage. used 9' roll. tacked it in place with 3 staples in the top corner. my wife held the bottom corner. then i unrolled it the full length of the wall. aligned the height and tacked that upper corner into place . then worked the staples from top down flushing out the wrinkles. went pretty good, mostly tight with no wrinkles. it was even a slightly windy day..
around the windows and doors they make make us use a drip edge no matter what type of window or door, and they won't let you pass code unless you have it.
some self adhesive flashing tape is more flexible so you don't have to cut the corners, you can just push it out with your fingers and stretch it a bit around the corner. Also check with window manufacturer because some windows require sealant where the nail holes are (sides & top only). Good point about bottom flashing going on first.
that's what I am doing to my house right now, I bonded the foamboard to the wood sheathing with foamboard sealant and also used those big head screws which is working great. after I screwed in the house wrap with the same type of screws I taped over the screws on the house wrap with 3" ForceField tape which works really well because of the width and the strength
What was your nailing pattern for the braced wall? Did you need straps across the header in addition to the hurricane straps from the foundation? What else was needed for your braced wall?
There is no bracing across the header; There is a specific number of bottom plate anchors that had to be installed, also the framing had to be 2X6’s. There are other videos of the truss install that show the hurricane straps, the braces show in this video are Simpson strong tie straps. The nailing pattern is per the structural engineered drawing, for my garage specifically. The specifics for the wall where provided by an engineer that I had validate the blue print. below link will take you to the video that i framed the wall in. ruclips.net/video/GWBR3sRQHZI/видео.html
It's not as hard as u think to do it solo. I did a multi story house starting 3ft off the ground and I got way less wrinkles in it than these two. The trick is to unroll the whole thing first then carefully lift and staple.
Dan, If the garage isn't heated you don't need house wrap. If it is heated why wrap the gables? The 16" marks on the wrap is so you can find you're framing when installing you're siding. Just a question, why didn't you do all this stuff "before" you stood the walls, sheeting, tyvek, windows and side the gables? You can save a ton of time, $$$$$.
I am going to heat the garage in fact there should be some videos out about the insulation and sheet rock very shortly. As for the 16 inch marks, I did not know that’s what those Work for now that you say that, well wish you would’ve told me that along time ago. Working the gable ends bymyself or just with my dad was really difficult so we didn’t want to add a lot of weight to them that’s why we do it the way we did.
You have no idea what the purpose of house wrap is. It's not an insulation vapor barrier, it keeps water that gets behind your siding from soaking into your wall sheathing. Some water inevitably WILL get behind siding.
nicely done however it seemed like you might want to spend a little more time showing the detail of the window area, the most critical top part you speeded right thru .
Yah u don't cut the tyvek on the top of windows u use the tape up the sides then on top u go 6 in on both sides and cut the corners to over lap above the window he cut the tyvek and installed it underneath that's not how it's done
Why not wear a tool belt, guess it better to walk all the way around the building to get more staples.... I can’t understand a carpenter , sider, roofer etc , not using a tool belt, saves lots of time and bullshit
![Wall OSB Sheathing and Tyvek House Wrap [Build a Workshop]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HCh-joDKujY/mqdefault.jpg)
Good job, I wouldn’t put so many staples on that tyvek though
Those red marks of the tyvek are actually to line up any vertical 8” proper lap sceme, and you are only suppose to staple the edges and not the field cause it creates unnecessary penetrations which ou don’t want, but if you do every penetration is supposed to be taped or caulked. And I would recommend getting the proper tyvek flashing, straight flash and flex wrap, flew wrap works great for the corners because it flexible and it seal them complety. Other than that you did an alright job
You are not using the correct fastener as dictated by the company. It is a button kappa button cap.
Great Demo! Thx for taking the time to be detailed, the industry standard thanks you as well!!
I have a 20 year old house. I removed some siding to check something. Much of the siding had green algae on the backside, which means the wind was regularly blowing water behind the siding. I also noticed the staples holding the house wrap were rusted, and many were rusted away and no longer holding the wrap. I saw black stains on the wrap for each staple hole. I pulled back the wrap and the OSB was black and soggy where each staple was, so soft I could push a screwdriver all the way through the OSB. I replaced all the OSB and new wrap. CONCLUSION: Staples rust away quickly and are a path for water to go in and rot the OSB. Do NOT use staples. They lead to rotted OSB.
I always use cap nails on roofing underlayment and house wrap way better seal
Or use Stainless Steel Staples an be sure use tyvek tape over staples.
Inspector needed to approve roof for my home he recommended Tyvek house wrap to be applied first homeowner can do it he did not want to budge on Roofing gutters first till the house raped with good energy efficient exterior before siding house wrap. watching your video help us a lot with are property 2700 square feet of it.we made sure we overlapped the top part by 6in with Tyvek and also using Tyvek tape even though there's other products out there that inspector said we can use but we went with Tyvek.inspector came back walked around property gave us thumbs up Now house is ready for roof gutters downspouts.I want to thank you very much for having this video out there and I enjoyed watching your video. for someone who never tyvek before house wrap you made it easy for us to do it ourselves and like I said inspector passed it right away.one thing inspector said you didn't need to tyvek the whole entire house Hahaha... I replied yes I think I had to he replied why I said to keep you off my back he chuckled everything's fine now thank you again God bless you hope to see more videos take care.Melvin Lara falcone.
Milwaukee Wisconsin.
thank you for the great feed back, and i'm really glade that it was helpful.
Just wrapped my cabin last night, by myself using the truck headlights. With a four foot level and using the marks and lettering on the wrap it was hung perfectly level and plum which helps when installing
The key to doing house wrap alone is using cap nails, not staples. And you should invest $15.00 in a j-roller for the flashing tape to get out the air and flatten the rinkles out for better adhesion to Wood.
just finished wrapping my garage. used 9' roll. tacked it in place with 3 staples in the top corner. my wife held the bottom corner. then i unrolled it the full length of the wall. aligned the height and tacked that upper corner into place . then worked the staples from top down flushing out the wrinkles. went pretty good, mostly tight with no wrinkles. it was even a slightly windy day..
around the windows and doors they make make us use a drip edge no matter what type of window or door, and they won't let you pass code unless you have it.
some self adhesive flashing tape is more flexible so you don't have to cut the corners, you can just push it out with your fingers and stretch it a bit around the corner. Also check with window manufacturer because some windows require sealant where the nail holes are (sides & top only). Good point about bottom flashing going on first.
Warranty void...Can't use staples unless you tape all the staples
Ya, I was waiting for them to tape every staple, but never happened. Cap nails is a must!
Where did find water travel in one direction through house wrap?
You guys are hilarious!! Thanks for the info.
Danny! You are a very good teacher ! Thanks ! Gracias !!
cool video thank you , especially the window part and water proof splashing thing .. nice . now I know how to do it thank you
yeah...me too.....very helpful!
@ 6:14 you cut that window aperature wrong. Should have really left a piece. Water could potentially track behind.
only need on person to put it up but makes it go faster with second hand for sure must be nice
Nice work
very good job, very professional thanks, learned a lot
It needs to be pulled tight n u gotta use button tabs but good job
very simple theory of overlapping, like pants going over boots so no dirt and mud gets in
How about 1/2" foamboard over or under the housewrap...for extra R value?
that's what I am doing to my house right now, I bonded the foamboard to the wood sheathing with foamboard sealant and also used those big head screws which is working great. after I screwed in the house wrap with the same type of screws I taped over the screws on the house wrap with 3" ForceField tape which works really well because of the width and the strength
What was your nailing pattern for the braced wall? Did you need straps across the header in addition to the hurricane straps from the foundation? What else was needed for your braced wall?
There is no bracing across the header; There is a specific number of bottom plate anchors that had to be installed, also the framing had to be 2X6’s. There are other videos of the truss install that show the hurricane straps, the braces show in this video are Simpson strong tie straps.
The nailing pattern is per the structural engineered drawing, for my garage specifically. The specifics for the wall where provided by an engineer that I had validate the blue print.
below link will take you to the video that i framed the wall in.
ruclips.net/video/GWBR3sRQHZI/видео.html
It's not as hard as u think to do it solo. I did a multi story house starting 3ft off the ground and I got way less wrinkles in it than these two. The trick is to unroll the whole thing first then carefully lift and staple.
Excellent job on the Tyvek it's not a hard job to do next time tell your helper to wear a pouch so he doesn't have to run for Staples
Dan, If the garage isn't heated you don't need house wrap. If it is heated why wrap the gables? The 16" marks on the wrap is so you can find you're framing when installing you're siding.
Just a question, why didn't you do all this stuff "before" you stood the walls, sheeting, tyvek, windows and side the gables? You can save a ton of time, $$$$$.
I am going to heat the garage in fact there should be some videos out about the insulation and sheet rock very shortly. As for the 16 inch marks, I did not know that’s what those Work for now that you say that, well wish you would’ve told me that along time ago. Working the gable ends bymyself or just with my dad was really difficult so we didn’t want to add a lot of weight to them that’s why we do it the way we did.
You have no idea what the purpose of house wrap is. It's not an insulation vapor barrier, it keeps water that gets behind your siding from soaking into your wall sheathing. Some water inevitably WILL get behind siding.
@@clavicus not with vinyl, I don't understand guys that prepare for the siding to leak, vinyl never will.
@@JAMESMOORE-gq4vv yes it will, we will never agree lol
All fasteners should be in every available hole.
Thanks for the vid man
Whats the name of Plaastic Material....here....?
FortiFlash is the self-adhesive window flashing, that i used.
I have to install this wrap on my own probably around 95% of the time and it is a pain in my buttocks
nicely done however it seemed like you might want to spend a little more time showing the detail of the window area, the most critical top part you speeded right thru .
Look up the video from Tyvek. It is the correct installation of window flashing. Most doo it yourself videos are not correct anyway.
Yah u don't cut the tyvek on the top of windows u use the tape up the sides then on top u go 6 in on both sides and cut the corners to over lap above the window he cut the tyvek and installed it underneath that's not how it's done
looks good:)
No through-wall flashing? Uh oh.
Flashing was installed to code, but in a differnt video. See below link
ruclips.net/video/7vUwJYQnVbg/видео.html
Everything else is good except the MUSIC..Bro have some good music next time 😂
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Why not wear a tool belt, guess it better to walk all the way around the building to get more staples.... I can’t understand a carpenter , sider, roofer etc , not using a tool belt, saves lots of time and bullshit
what a crappy helper.
I may have been too honest.
But I think he said that they are brothers....
Horrible in so many ways
Hahahahaha