Looks great! A few years back, one of the guys down at Baltimore Hackerspace made a sign for a horse farm that he milled out of wood on the CNC router to create a 3D Relief. After he had the 3D piece he did a separate process on the laser to add shading to it. It was really an impressive work and complicated to align the work piece between the processes. The end result looked a lot like what you have here.
Mixing the CNC Router with the laser can be tricky stuff but produce some really cool effects! I need to jump back onto my CNC for more fun with that, especially now that The Clack Shack has his going!
hi that was great cut i also have the same laser AZTER 36 V I AM HAVING TROUBLE adjusting the reels on x y no matter waht i do the bolts and nut on the reel coming loos so the real are not running parallel and kind of jerking so the cut dose not come out right amu idea how to fix it . thanks
Merhaba Civatalara Loctite 243 50ml Orta Kuvvet Cıvata Sabitleyici uygula ve birgün bekle civatalar gevşeme yapmayacak.Sökmek için hava tabancasıyla ısıtman yeterli tekrar sökebileceksin.
Thanks for clarifying this technique for me. The results are amazing. Do you think this would work using leather? I was thinking it might replicate tooling.
Nicely done - I think we share the same likes given your search results on ETSY. Also like that you don't mind throwing a few bucks toward people's work on ETSY, assuming they were the original creators. Keep up the good work!
The fact that this is a not a proper 3D engraving that would employ the grayscale function but just a "3D look" engraving that uses normal Jarvis dithereing, means it will be easy to replicate with a 50 watt CO2 and probably at 300 to 400mm/s
I'm going to post a video on that hangar and also a keyhole style one in the next day or two. But they're easy to draw up if you want to make them yourself!
So does the end result actually have different depths throughout the picture? I was to the understanding that the 3d effect was created by multiple passes at a lower power. The dark areas that are deeper would get more passes and the lighter areas that are higher would get less or no passes .
@@Vintauri You seem very knowledable and helpfull in this topic. I have done 2 depth engravings but was not sure what to expect. I wixh I could share pictures. I did a single pass on mdf. It turned out ok but would like to figure out the multi passes. I assume to use crosshatch?
Great video. How do you get the cut line to match the image . I am just learning lightburn and I'm sure there must be an easy way to match both layers.
Looks nice. You mentioned the creator provided the outline but you had to resize it. How difficult was that? Couldn't you have just created a small offset and used that for the cut line?
You would first have to create the vector outline to then create an offset. The Eagle and flag are a PNG and thus a raster image. You can trace it but Lightburn does not have a trace option for just the outer bounds so you end up doing a lot of cleanup of interior lines it detects. The seller provided the outline but it needed to be resized to fit, it did not take long but would have been nice to have been the correct dimensions to begin with.
I had a sheet of 3mm ply and printed a waste board template on it, it was straight when I started but then warped very badly from Lasering it. Just wondering how yours didn't warp since it obviously had a ton more heat than mine.
There was very little heat involved with this engraving. But warping is usually from either stresses in the wood being released or a change in humidity and moisture content in the wood.
Hi completely a noob at this. I have a two trees tts 10. Done all you have done in the video but my preview is just black? Tried it on a small plaque as test came out OK but not 3d any recommendations
The diode manufacturers like to share the focus spot as they are fixed focus machines. A better way to determine it would be with the interval test within lightburn. Run that tool with increasing interval widths and when you start to see the gap between the lines you can use that to determine your beam width.
What have you found in playing with scan angle. I have the v35. I bought same file and did Jarvis .1, 5 degree. At 100mms 40-45% power was best. Baltic birch was great, cherry plywood is ok. I copied your 15,000 mm/m 100% and am going to try it. What will larger angles do? I heard you say stop banding. The Etsy seller recommends 5% I might do some bigger offsets to test. Is it just a trick to prevent banding and 5% minimizes the y travel to keep speed up?
This was my second scan at an angle so I need to do more testing to find the sweet spot. It's all to prevent banding from running in just one axis, although I'm tempted to run it at zero degrees to see how fast I can go and see if I get any banding.
God bless for supporting the artist We are peaceful people and thus often subject to poverty due to exploitation The true artist mainly focuses on creativity however when reality knocks we realize we also have to eat and drink Once more thankyou for your consideration
That will vary on the type of wood, but in my other video you can see the same machine cutting out a block of letters from 3/4" or roughly 20mm clear Aspen wood. More dense woods and plywoods will be harder to cut through.
MDF is okay but I find that it does not shade as well as something like basswood. It's also mostly resin and sawdust and the resin tends to get sticky when burned and does not smell good at all. Some MDF may have Formaldehyde in it so you should be careful not to cut that material. It's great for vector fills that are one shade though. So for text I do like it in select cases.
Hi, nice video, so I have a proposition for you. I believe I can make my own 3d height map files, but I have a diode 10 watt laser and it cannot produce the 3d effect, I was wondering if I could make you a 32 height map image and you can describe the type of art you want me to make. Would you laser engrave it to see if it actually works, because if it does, it could be profitable if people buy those type of files
I'm really tired of places calling this 3D or 3D effect when a laser can do actual 3D variable power engraving. It makes it really hard to find the actual 3D greyscale depth files needed for real 3D engravings
It is not. But if you have a depth map (bump/displace) you can make 2,5D reliefs with either many passes or layers. However they look very different than this graphic.
You could do this on a Co2 laser, but I have found the diodes to give a darker engrave on various materials so getting the shading with them can be easier.
We bought just about every option for this unit but the extension and hood....Were not very happy so far, one of the X rods were not mounted in its socket and would not fit even with the screw out of the socket, had to be hammered in. The unit was scratched up, when I contacted support they said...oh sorry. We paid $1600 for this unit and it seems to have software issues and it will not autofocus and tech support is useless....I really regret buying this unit.
Don't let them get away with this, I am seeing more and more complaint's pertaining 2 Atezr's Customer Service, Save all of your email corrospondence, sent & received to & from Atezr, Report your problem to the Federal Consumer Protection Division, File a complaint with the better Business Bureau , Find a consumer protection Lawyer, I have been having an on going serious issue with Atezr Support, they have lied to me twice, they have been delaying replacement parts, haven't been able to use my 36W L2 laser since receiving it, it is now going on 82 days waiting for these parts,I am also asking for compensation, they have cost me greatly! on all levels, I've missed out & lost income from the school opening season, the 4th of July Holiday, Halloween is just around the corner, Thanks Giving Holiday, If they do not comply with sending me parts & compensation for the damage they have caused me, I will do myself what I have suggested for you to do I am now searching for a lawyer to sue Atezr for EXTREME Loss of Income, Pain and Suffering and More
It is fine, but is faux 3D. I do actual 3D (or DEEP) engraves, closer to what a CNC would do. I'm not sure why the fake 3D is so popular when the same tool can do actual 3D also.
Thanks for stopping by to check it out. I hadn't come across your channel and you do some cool stuff so I subscribed and look forward to your future content! I don't know that I would call this Faux 3D. It's just a rather shallow 3D effect as there is depth differences between the dark heavily engraved areas vs the lighter areas. It's a great way to get started towards the deeper engravings. I think the reason that fewer do the deep engraving is that its a time intensive process and many are happy with the results of the shallow engraving. If I wanted a true 3D relief engraving, I'd opt to use my CNC router instead. I'll try to revisit this process for a deep engrave on the laser in the future, as I love playing around with new techniques.
@@Vintauri I did not notice yous had any depth in the darker areas. That IS more of a 3D effect. I have seen some people selling the "3D Look" signs say that their customers complained and wanted refunds because it was not made clear that the image was flat. This is the first time I saw your channel, so I subbed as well and look forward to more content. As well, thank you for subbing to mine. My uploads a a bit slow at the moment because of my full time work, orders, and the fact I Sublimate, 3D Print, Laser Cut and engrave. On top of that I sold my glowforge because I mostly use my 100 watt laser, but I still have several glowforge videos I want to put out. :)
Looks great! A few years back, one of the guys down at Baltimore Hackerspace made a sign for a horse farm that he milled out of wood on the CNC router to create a 3D Relief. After he had the 3D piece he did a separate process on the laser to add shading to it. It was really an impressive work and complicated to align the work piece between the processes. The end result looked a lot like what you have here.
Mixing the CNC Router with the laser can be tricky stuff but produce some really cool effects! I need to jump back onto my CNC for more fun with that, especially now that The Clack Shack has his going!
Looks great brother
Thanks 👍
Noice! Enjoying your helpful videos 🦅
Glad you like them!
Great video. Happy 4th!
Thanks! You too!
hi that was great cut i also have the same laser AZTER 36 V I AM HAVING TROUBLE adjusting the reels on x y no matter waht i do the bolts and nut on the reel coming loos so the real are not running parallel and kind of jerking so the cut dose not come out right amu idea how to fix it .
thanks
Merhaba Civatalara Loctite 243 50ml Orta Kuvvet Cıvata Sabitleyici uygula ve birgün bekle civatalar gevşeme yapmayacak.Sökmek için hava tabancasıyla ısıtman yeterli tekrar sökebileceksin.
thanks @@istrative
Thanks for clarifying this technique for me. The results are amazing. Do you think this would work using leather? I was thinking it might replicate tooling.
I don't know that it would get the depth that you would with tooling but it could add shading to the leather that could look similar.
Nicely done - I think we share the same likes given your search results on ETSY. Also like that you don't mind throwing a few bucks toward people's work on ETSY, assuming they were the original creators. Keep up the good work!
Thanks, I do try to support the original artists when I can!
Looks great. Can we get that done in Co2 laser of 50 watt?
The fact that this is a not a proper 3D engraving that would employ the grayscale function but just a "3D look" engraving that uses normal Jarvis dithereing, means it will be easy to replicate with a 50 watt CO2 and probably at 300 to 400mm/s
Btw I am totally stealing your hangers. I just bought a large ish box of metal ones from Amazon but never again lol. Brilliant design.
I'm going to post a video on that hangar and also a keyhole style one in the next day or two. But they're easy to draw up if you want to make them yourself!
Hay looks great. Do you have a link to get the hanger cut out?
I'll have a quick video on that in the next day or two!
Nice video!!
Thanks for watching!
have you ever did any deep engraving in wood ? Not 3d effect , just a deep engrave like with a CNC ?
So does the end result actually have different depths throughout the picture? I was to the understanding that the 3d effect was created by multiple passes at a lower power. The dark areas that are deeper would get more passes and the lighter areas that are higher would get less or no passes .
There are depth variances even in a single pass, but not as prevalent as on a multi pass depth map engraving.
@@Vintauri You seem very knowledable and helpfull in this topic. I have done 2 depth engravings but was not sure what to expect. I wixh I could share pictures. I did a single pass on mdf. It turned out ok but would like to figure out the multi passes. I assume to use crosshatch?
How do you create a 3D image file?I see them on Etsy all the time. I’d like to create my own.
Great video. How do you get the cut line to match the image . I am just learning lightburn and I'm sure there must be an easy way to match both layers.
I manually resize the outline to match the cut line, then I group them together to resize the whole project to final fit.
Looks nice. You mentioned the creator provided the outline but you had to resize it. How difficult was that? Couldn't you have just created a small offset and used that for the cut line?
You would first have to create the vector outline to then create an offset. The Eagle and flag are a PNG and thus a raster image. You can trace it but Lightburn does not have a trace option for just the outer bounds so you end up doing a lot of cleanup of interior lines it detects. The seller provided the outline but it needed to be resized to fit, it did not take long but would have been nice to have been the correct dimensions to begin with.
@@Vintauri I forgot about that. Thanks for the clarification.
I had a sheet of 3mm ply and printed a waste board template on it, it was straight when I started but then warped very badly from Lasering it. Just wondering how yours didn't warp since it obviously had a ton more heat than mine.
There was very little heat involved with this engraving. But warping is usually from either stresses in the wood being released or a change in humidity and moisture content in the wood.
Well the wood was perfectly flat until I engraved a grid of lines on it.
Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Hi completely a noob at this. I have a two trees tts 10. Done all you have done in the video but my preview is just black? Tried it on a small plaque as test came out OK but not 3d any recommendations
How do you calculate the beam with? I have a 100w CO2 laser. Thanks for sharing.
The diode manufacturers like to share the focus spot as they are fixed focus machines. A better way to determine it would be with the interval test within lightburn. Run that tool with increasing interval widths and when you start to see the gap between the lines you can use that to determine your beam width.
What have you found in playing with scan angle. I have the v35. I bought same file and did Jarvis .1, 5 degree. At 100mms 40-45% power was best. Baltic birch was great, cherry plywood is ok. I copied your 15,000 mm/m 100% and am going to try it.
What will larger angles do? I heard you say stop banding. The Etsy seller recommends 5% I might do some bigger offsets to test. Is it just a trick to prevent banding and 5% minimizes the y travel to keep speed up?
This was my second scan at an angle so I need to do more testing to find the sweet spot. It's all to prevent banding from running in just one axis, although I'm tempted to run it at zero degrees to see how fast I can go and see if I get any banding.
God bless for supporting the artist
We are peaceful people and thus often subject to poverty due to exploitation
The true artist mainly focuses on creativity however when reality knocks we realize we also have to eat and drink
Once more thankyou for your consideration
Thank you, what the max thickness of wood can I cut, Thanks.
That will vary on the type of wood, but in my other video you can see the same machine cutting out a block of letters from 3/4" or roughly 20mm clear Aspen wood. More dense woods and plywoods will be harder to cut through.
Nice video! How long did it take to carve on your laser? Roughly what size was the material? Thanks Don
The engraving and cut took about 2.5 hours and it's about 10" wide and 9" tall. I used a piece of 12x12 material for this.
@@Vintauri thanks
what kind of material do u used@@Vintauri
What was the run-time on the engrave and cut?
MDF does not have any grain, How would MDF work for engraving
MDF is okay but I find that it does not shade as well as something like basswood. It's also mostly resin and sawdust and the resin tends to get sticky when burned and does not smell good at all. Some MDF may have Formaldehyde in it so you should be careful not to cut that material. It's great for vector fills that are one shade though. So for text I do like it in select cases.
Hi, nice video, so I have a proposition for you. I believe I can make my own 3d height map files, but I have a diode 10 watt laser and it cannot produce the 3d effect, I was wondering if I could make you a 32 height map image and you can describe the type of art you want me to make. Would you laser engrave it to see if it actually works, because if it does, it could be profitable if people buy those type of files
qual software para fazer esse tipo de gravação
I use OBS for a lot of my recordings where I switch from computer to the camera, otherwise I edit in Adobe Premiere.
I'm really tired of places calling this 3D or 3D effect when a laser can do actual 3D variable power engraving. It makes it really hard to find the actual 3D greyscale depth files needed for real 3D engravings
Yes, I came here thinking it was a 3D carving but it was just a grayscale imagem engrave.
@@AlexandreMS71 Laser engraver is not cnc milling machine.
It is not. But if you have a depth map (bump/displace) you can make 2,5D reliefs with either many passes or layers. However they look very different than this graphic.
It may need wood stain for a perfect even finish getting rid of those lines
Yes an oil finish would help even out the tones and add some contrast to it. Thanks for watching!
Co2 laser?
You could do this on a Co2 laser, but I have found the diodes to give a darker engrave on various materials so getting the shading with them can be easier.
We bought just about every option for this unit but the extension and hood....Were not very happy so far, one of the X rods were not mounted in its socket and would not fit even with the screw out of the socket, had to be hammered in. The unit was scratched up, when I contacted support they said...oh sorry. We paid $1600 for this unit and it seems to have software issues and it will not autofocus and tech support is useless....I really regret buying this unit.
Don't let them get away with this, I am seeing more and more complaint's pertaining 2 Atezr's Customer Service, Save all of your email corrospondence, sent & received to & from Atezr, Report your problem to the Federal Consumer Protection Division, File a complaint with the better Business Bureau , Find a consumer protection Lawyer, I have been having an on going serious issue with Atezr Support, they have lied to me twice, they have been delaying replacement parts, haven't been able to use my 36W L2 laser since receiving it, it is now going on 82 days waiting for these parts,I am also asking for compensation, they have cost me greatly! on all levels, I've missed out & lost income from the school opening season, the 4th of July Holiday, Halloween is just around the corner, Thanks Giving Holiday, If they do not comply with sending me parts & compensation for the damage they have caused me, I will do myself what I have suggested for you to do I am now searching for a lawyer to sue Atezr for EXTREME Loss of Income, Pain and Suffering and More
was looking for 3d cut, not 3d effect, dang
That's not 3
It is fine, but is faux 3D. I do actual 3D (or DEEP) engraves, closer to what a CNC would do. I'm not sure why the fake 3D is so popular when the same tool can do actual 3D also.
Thanks for stopping by to check it out. I hadn't come across your channel and you do some cool stuff so I subscribed and look forward to your future content! I don't know that I would call this Faux 3D. It's just a rather shallow 3D effect as there is depth differences between the dark heavily engraved areas vs the lighter areas. It's a great way to get started towards the deeper engravings. I think the reason that fewer do the deep engraving is that its a time intensive process and many are happy with the results of the shallow engraving. If I wanted a true 3D relief engraving, I'd opt to use my CNC router instead. I'll try to revisit this process for a deep engrave on the laser in the future, as I love playing around with new techniques.
@@Vintauri I did not notice yous had any depth in the darker areas. That IS more of a 3D effect. I have seen some people selling the "3D Look" signs say that their customers complained and wanted refunds because it was not made clear that the image was flat. This is the first time I saw your channel, so I subbed as well and look forward to more content. As well, thank you for subbing to mine. My uploads a a bit slow at the moment because of my full time work, orders, and the fact I Sublimate, 3D Print, Laser Cut and engrave. On top of that I sold my glowforge because I mostly use my 100 watt laser, but I still have several glowforge videos I want to put out. :)
you have issues, dude
🎶 Promo SM