They did a whole episode on Engine Masters about oil levels and oil pans. In one test they had to back the total volume by a quart to avoid high rpm oil aeration where the oil pressure dropped to almost zero at 6500-7000 rpm. The best advice they gave was to monitor your pressure in real track testing. Start with the mfgs recommended capacity. Good luck. In the 70s I ran a Super Stock 340 Duster. I ran a Milidon rear sump pan with the drag link tube through it. Best pan but lots of work everytime you pulled the engine or needed to drop the pan in the car. Thankfully I only had to do that once in 7 years.
Great video as usual! I have a regular SBM car pan and no windage tray or baffling. The engine rund strong and oil pressure has always been in a proper operating range. I'm digging that pan and was hoping you'd attempt to install it in the car. Look forward to see if you see any changes or performance gains!
Thanks! I have taken an oil pan off in the car to replace the oil pump in my other Duster and it was not fun. And that car doesn’t have headers. It can be done but I wanted to repaint the engine. I wasn’t necessarily having an oil pressure problem but it would drop to about 45 psi by the end of the 1/4 mile. Hopefully this pan cures that.
I feel the same way I recommend you calling the competitor oil manufacturer and asking do they recommend running with out a windage tray. Never trust a person opinion he could have been smoking pot all night answering that question and was to lazy to think
Came across video again. I will say i never raced without windage tray. also since it is all about keeping the oil from aerating then How much the pan is filled to would be answer to that .
, I will be using Milodon pickup and pan as well as windage tray studs cut to fit. i thing pump must be Melling, maybe use ponge with ink or paint to sit on pup see how much clearance
👍💯 ..I've always ran the windage trays...my reasoning was that they put them on performance engines from the factory soooo....but I realize they get omitted from some oil pans i.e. deep sump...sounds logical anyway!!!
@Duster_Garage I purchased a moroso deep sump pan for my 440 build for my 69 Bee. I installed a new windage tray also per their recommendations. I do wonder about the necessity of it really though....
@@Duster_Garage ... Right! Honestly I believe it's really no big deal... I'll be building some other engines down the road, And anything I put a deep Pan on I doubt I'll use the tray.
My 340’s and many other engines where always run with a windage tray / scraper so the oil was stripped off the crank throws and get it back in the pan with minimal aeration. RPM to me wasn’t a factor , oil clinging to the throws is the same @ 3000 or 7000. Physics are physics and oil riding around on the crank and being slung all over is a non productive use of it. Does it matter? Not sure without side by side tests - not on a dyno but real world dynamic testing. I ran Ed Hamburger on Mopars and Milodon’s or Moroso on my Chevy’s. Had them all live long happy, high rpm lives on the street and in stock cars. Oil system is the majority of engine cooling AND all of friction control in the engine. Love following you and the Duster, little details add up and your path validates that! My two cents.
Hello, I have a 1966 Dodge Coronet with a 273 engine, I am changing it for a 360 magnum, the oil pan does not allow the engine to enter, it is very large, do you know if I can put the pan from 273 to 360, will it be okay?
I’m sorry but a 273, 318, 340 pan is different than the 360 pan. Because the 360 has a bigger rear main cap the pan is shaped differently to fit it. You will need a passenger car center sump 360 pan and pick up tube to install the engine in your Coronet properly.
I know the TTIs are a breeze to install with the engine in. I never installed a set of Doug’s. Some people like them but I have a friend who tried to put a set on a Duster, 360 with power steering and they needed extensive bashing to come close to fitting on the drivers side. He gave up on them and bought TTIs. I’ll do a header install video when I get the engine back in.
They did a whole episode on Engine Masters about oil levels and oil pans. In one test they had to back the total volume by a quart to avoid high rpm oil aeration where the oil pressure dropped to almost zero at 6500-7000 rpm. The best advice they gave was to monitor your pressure in real track testing. Start with the mfgs recommended capacity. Good luck. In the 70s I ran a Super Stock 340 Duster. I ran a Milidon rear sump pan with the drag link tube through it. Best pan but lots of work everytime you pulled the engine or needed to drop the pan in the car. Thankfully I only had to do that once in 7 years.
That’s good info. I remember watching that E.M. episode, it’s an older one. I will have to go back and rewatch it.
Very interesting channel. I always said if I ever build a shop, it will have rollup doors front and back of shop for good airflow.
Thanks man
Thing looks bad ass on there and I think you're really going to like it
I think you’re right
Glad to know it fits, i am planning on the kevco "stock" pan that holds one more quart and has baffles myself... seems like a good company
Make sure your dipstick goes all the way in. I ended up having to drill a hole in the front baffle so I could check oil level with the dipstick.
@@Duster_Garage oh god that would piss me off to have to take it all back apart :) thanks for the tip!
Great video as usual! I have a regular SBM car pan and no windage tray or baffling. The engine rund strong and oil pressure has always been in a proper operating range. I'm digging that pan and was hoping you'd attempt to install it in the car. Look forward to see if you see any changes or performance gains!
Thanks! I have taken an oil pan off in the car to replace the oil pump in my other Duster and it was not fun. And that car doesn’t have headers. It can be done but I wanted to repaint the engine. I wasn’t necessarily having an oil pressure problem but it would drop to about 45 psi by the end of the 1/4 mile. Hopefully this pan cures that.
Look at this guy...suns out, guns out!
Lol 😂
😂
Hopefully you’ll be happy with the new pan. 🤞
I think it will work out really nice.
I feel the same way I recommend you calling the competitor oil manufacturer and asking do they recommend running with out a windage tray. Never trust a person opinion he could have been smoking pot all night answering that question and was to lazy to think
Lol, you make a good point.
Came across video again. I will say i never raced without windage tray. also since it is all about keeping the oil from aerating then How much the pan is filled to would be answer to that .
I think you’re right on that. I thought about running only 5 quarts instead of 6. Haven’t tried it though.
Thanks bud
No problem
Awesome dude!
Thanks man!
, I will be using Milodon pickup and pan as well as windage tray studs cut to fit. i thing pump must be Melling, maybe use ponge with ink or paint to sit on pup see how much clearance
I have a standard volume pump so it doesn’t have a clearance issue with the pan. A high volume pump won’t clear the stock pan on a 360 though.
👍💯 ..I've always ran the windage trays...my reasoning was that they put them on performance engines from the factory soooo....but I realize they get omitted from some oil pans i.e. deep sump...sounds logical anyway!!!
I always like running a windage tray too. I hope it will be ok in the long run.
@Duster_Garage I purchased a moroso deep sump pan for my 440 build for my 69 Bee. I installed a new windage tray also per their recommendations. I do wonder about the necessity of it really though....
@@70stunes71 truth be told, if the windage tray would have fit without cutting it up I would have installed it. Just an extra layer of oil control.
@@Duster_Garage ... Right! Honestly I believe it's really no big deal... I'll be building some other engines down the road, And anything I put a deep Pan on I doubt I'll use the tray.
My 340’s and many other engines where always run with a windage tray / scraper so the oil was stripped off the crank throws and get it back in the pan with minimal aeration. RPM to me wasn’t a factor , oil clinging to the
throws is the same @ 3000 or 7000. Physics are physics and oil riding around on the crank and being slung all over is a non productive use of it. Does it matter? Not sure without side by side tests - not on a dyno but real world dynamic testing. I ran Ed Hamburger on Mopars and Milodon’s or Moroso on my Chevy’s. Had them all live long happy, high rpm lives on the street and in stock cars. Oil system is the majority of engine cooling AND all of friction control in the engine.
Love following you and the Duster, little details add up and your path validates that!
My two cents.
Thank you for weighing in with your opinion. I appreciate when people share their experiences they have had with their cars and engines.
Windage tray is needed
Hello, I have a 1966 Dodge Coronet with a 273 engine, I am changing it for a 360 magnum, the oil pan does not allow the engine to enter, it is very large, do you know if I can put the pan from 273 to 360, will it be okay?
I’m sorry but a 273, 318, 340 pan is different than the 360 pan. Because the 360 has a bigger rear main cap the pan is shaped differently to fit it. You will need a passenger car center sump 360 pan and pick up tube to install the engine in your Coronet properly.
Yep run it
Right on
Please show more on the TTI’s. I hate my hookers. What do you think about Doug’s headers?
I know the TTIs are a breeze to install with the engine in. I never installed a set of Doug’s. Some people like them but I have a friend who tried to put a set on a Duster, 360 with power steering and they needed extensive bashing to come close to fitting on the drivers side. He gave up on them and bought TTIs. I’ll do a header install video when I get the engine back in.
I have 17/8 tube on my abody and fit like a glove
WindtraY is needed
Windtray is needed