Absolute legend! The freezer works a charm, lets hope it keeps working. Just note, if you take the slider out of the track a tiny ball bearing will shoot off never to be seen again.
Thank you for this helpful video. With your help I was able to start my old KitchenAid Pro 600. Possibly, in my case, the coper railings inside the speed control selector were oxidated and dusty. After vacuuming and moving the slider back and fourth, also clicking the switch button several times, the mixer started working at couple of speed selection positions. Gradually, after sliding and jiggling the slider knob several times at each position, the mixer started working at every position. Thanks again!
Cleaned out the potentiometer track and the copper portion of the switch with some acetone. Works great. Remember when testing it, make sure mixer is in the off position, plug it in, then move the switch. If you plug it in with the switch in a on position, there is a safety feature that prevents it from running.
Thankyou for both videos on this repair. I was able to follow your advice. I removed the switch, took the circuit board apart, cleaned both the swith on the circuit board and the plastic side, with alcohol and Qtips/Swabs. reassembled and it works perfectly. No freezing necessary for my repair. Thank you.
Thanks for the video. I sprayed the inside of the slider a few times with electronic parts cleaner, put back together and it worked. I also changed most of the grease in the gear section as some of it was "melting" and running down the side of the mixer.
@theoverengineer helpful video! I knew it was the board but suspected a discrete component was the issue. I cleaned the potentiometer with rubbing alcohol and a Q-tip and it's working like new! Saved me about $50+s&h. Thanks for posting
Great video. Good camera work and explanation. Your instinct about the switch was spot on (Only moving part). I cleaned the copper rails of the varistor with WD-40 and a toothbrush. No need to take it off the circuit board. Works once again!
What a great video. I cleaned the switch using aerosol contact cleaner and poof it works. Four two second blasts of solvent mixed with exercising switch vigorously. Can of cleaner $7 @homedepot in February 2022. Much better than $60 for new assembly.
"Working when cold" is a common symptom for .... bad solder joints! :) You might also want to check the big red capacitors. If they have lost some capacitance, then that might be the issue (I think they are used in a "transformerless power supply" circuit)
+Benjamin “Ozias” Esposti It`s working after 1 deep freeze cycle now at normal room temperature. it`s totally reasonable that the soft metal solder joints move enough over time to create an open, then move enough in the freezer to close the open. Thanks for the tip.
Just somehow fix my very old mixer after watching this. I didn't put it in the freezer, simply blew some air and brush the potentiometer and somehow get it working. Hopefully it'll last. Thank you.
Thank you for this video. I cleaned the copper contacts, and my mixer speed control is working like new again. I’d like to echo another comment about removing the switch - there are two tiny ball bearings which are just WAITING to spring away, so be careful if you remove it.
So ... I started disassembling the slider switch ... and some bits sprung out of the slider. I should have known there was a spring and some detents in there ... but didn't think about it. I found the spring, but the detents are gone in the wind, and I have no idea what I am even looking for. Word to the wise, disassemble in a baggie or something... stuff will go everywhere - and your KitchenAid will surely not work again.
Oooh, that`s bad, sorry to hear your troubles. One source of eletronics parts is www.newark.com/c/passive-components/potentiometers-trimmers-accessories/slide-potentiometers Thanks for the tip!
There are two tiny metal balls on each side of the spring to keep it from clicking into each position. Even after being careful, I ended up losing one of the balls. Improvised by making another ball with solder (used the other ball as a reference for size). Put it back together and works great.
I removed the board, sprayed the slider 'box' with automotive battery cleaner, let that sit for 2 min, then cleaned it out with paper towels. Works flawlessly now.
I recently purchased a non-working like yours with the same issue. Not sure but feel that the board has been serviced at some point as solder joints for the large Mylar cap.. voltage regulator trans.. and the 3 legged dipped part that sits parallel to the ic.. assuming it to be an oscillator.. not sure have been touched up by hand.. I’m gonna check the trans & cap.. but may hit the slider with some contact cleaner first to see if that cures matters.. will update as things progress..
+Koffi Banan I have inspected, but the freezer fixed it whatever was wrong. No need for re-touch. Until it stops again, so I can keep tracking what action causes what result. Thanks for watching.
Hi, do you have the resistor values for R15, R2 and R3 (the ones adjacent to the 335K capacitor) please? I have a board that was fed with 230V instead of 120 and the resistors all have a black colour code now haha!
Thanks for sharing. I have the intermittent speedy control board on the KM25G. It turn ON after few tried and took me 10 minutes to resolved the issue.
Just a heads up: The quality of Kitchenaid products went downhill quite fast after the 70's. If you're sick of dealing with them, fix them, resell them, then spend the money and get a Hobart n50.
+Winston Pavlenko I actually found this Kitchenaid in the dumpster. Shot a review of it: ruclips.net/video/1Bl1eHnNxVE/видео.html I kept the Teddy Varimixer, also in that video for a while 4:40 - 5:20. Industrial grade, like Hobart.
The slide is a good place to start, but that wasn't the problem on my board. I have good speed control on the first 3 speeds but on the higher speeds it just stops the motor. Motor is good and runs flat out when the speed board is bypassed. So some component on the board is defective. None look burnt so I think it is a semiconductor? Which one I don't know. Probably not the SCR (heat sinked device), my guess is that it's one of the IC's?
Can i ask what is the details for the mov or the metal oxide varistor.. becaus i already burn 2 speed control replacement because i forget to plug in 110 volts.. i just want to replace the mov so its more cheaper but i dont know the details for the mov.. thank you..
It is not a pot. it is a switch with each contact sending a voltage to the IC. If you looked at the other side of the new board, the one you say has less components. You'll see there is an IC more advanced than the original.
+theoverengineer Well the result is that it is still not working. The freeze method did not work for me. I left it in the freezer for over 24 hours and it is still DEAD. Oh well at least it is working with the new one.
US an Canadian models KP, KT, KD, 4KP, 4KT, 4KD Serial numbers WL46 - present Old part number 9707221, 9707220 New part number 9706648, 9706649, 9706650 with black, grey and buff color knobs
@@theoverengineer don't want to replace the entire board was hoping to be able to purchase just the silver slider (the part your talking about in video) that's under the part number
That's not a potentiometer. It is literally a tracked switch: one leg of the black switch sits on a long track bonded to 2 signal positions, the other sits on a track composed of multiple pads linked to the micro controller. So it basically switches +5v to a different leg of the mCU based on the switch position.
Old lady gramma here. It took longer to put the screws back in than to clean the contacts....now after 5 yrs and 2 seconds it works great! Thanks
Absolute legend! The freezer works a charm, lets hope it keeps working. Just note, if you take the slider out of the track a tiny ball bearing will shoot off never to be seen again.
thanks, never noticed!
Thank you for this helpful video. With your help I was able to start my old KitchenAid Pro 600. Possibly, in my case, the coper railings inside the speed control selector were oxidated and dusty. After vacuuming and moving the slider back and fourth, also clicking the switch button several times, the mixer started working at couple of speed selection positions. Gradually, after sliding and jiggling the slider knob several times at each position, the mixer started working at every position. Thanks again!
Cleaned out the potentiometer track and the copper portion of the switch with some acetone. Works great. Remember when testing it, make sure mixer is in the off position, plug it in, then move the switch. If you plug it in with the switch in a on position, there is a safety feature that prevents it from running.
brilliant!
Great video! I cleaned the sliding potentiometer with electrical contact cleaner spray, and my mixer came back to life!
I removed and cleaned up the contact switch and it fired right up! Thank you!!!
Thanks that helped me fix our mixer without having to take it apart 🎉
Thankyou for both videos on this repair. I was able to follow your advice. I removed the switch, took the circuit board apart, cleaned both the swith on the circuit board and the plastic side, with alcohol and Qtips/Swabs. reassembled and it works perfectly. No freezing necessary for my repair. Thank you.
You're very welcome!
Thanks for the video. I sprayed the inside of the slider a few times with electronic parts cleaner, put back together and it worked. I also changed most of the grease in the gear section as some of it was "melting" and running down the side of the mixer.
@theoverengineer helpful video! I knew it was the board but suspected a discrete component was the issue. I cleaned the potentiometer with rubbing alcohol and a Q-tip and it's working like new! Saved me about $50+s&h. Thanks for posting
Thanks for watching!
Great video. Good camera work and explanation. Your instinct about the switch was spot on (Only moving part). I cleaned the copper rails of the varistor with WD-40 and a toothbrush. No need to take it off the circuit board. Works once again!
Glad it helped
Thanks brother, I cleaned the slide switch, it works great again. I simply used some emery cloth and cleaned the contacts...good to go now.
Thanks for watching!
What a great video. I cleaned the switch using aerosol contact cleaner and poof it works. Four two second blasts of solvent mixed with exercising switch vigorously. Can of cleaner $7 @homedepot in February 2022. Much better than $60 for new assembly.
Nice work!!
"Working when cold" is a common symptom for .... bad solder joints! :)
You might also want to check the big red capacitors. If they have lost some capacitance, then that might be the issue (I think they are used in a "transformerless power supply" circuit)
+Benjamin “Ozias” Esposti It`s working after 1 deep freeze cycle now at normal room temperature. it`s totally reasonable that the soft metal solder joints move enough over time to create an open, then move enough in the freezer to close the open. Thanks for the tip.
Electrolytic capacitor also fails and could have variable capacitance depending on temperature, worth replacing
Just somehow fix my very old mixer after watching this. I didn't put it in the freezer, simply blew some air and brush the potentiometer and somehow get it working. Hopefully it'll last. Thank you.
Great job!
Thank you for this video. I cleaned the copper contacts, and my mixer speed control is working like new again. I’d like to echo another comment about removing the switch - there are two tiny ball bearings which are just WAITING to spring away, so be careful if you remove it.
Great to hear!
glad I read the comments before doing it thanks😀
So ... I started disassembling the slider switch ... and some bits sprung out of the slider. I should have known there was a spring and some detents in there ... but didn't think about it. I found the spring, but the detents are gone in the wind, and I have no idea what I am even looking for. Word to the wise, disassemble in a baggie or something... stuff will go everywhere - and your KitchenAid will surely not work again.
Oooh, that`s bad, sorry to hear your troubles. One source of eletronics parts is www.newark.com/c/passive-components/potentiometers-trimmers-accessories/slide-potentiometers
Thanks for the tip!
There are two tiny metal balls on each side of the spring to keep it from clicking into each position. Even after being careful, I ended up losing one of the balls. Improvised by making another ball with solder (used the other ball as a reference for size). Put it back together and works great.
Maybe they are just BBs!@@chrisp9320
I removed the board, sprayed the slider 'box' with automotive battery cleaner, let that sit for 2 min, then cleaned it out with paper towels.
Works flawlessly now.
Thanks for sharing!
Where did you get the part?
I recently purchased a non-working like yours with the same issue. Not sure but feel that the board has been serviced at some point as solder joints for the large Mylar cap.. voltage regulator trans.. and the 3 legged dipped part that sits parallel to the ic.. assuming it to be an oscillator.. not sure have been touched up by hand.. I’m gonna check the trans & cap.. but may hit the slider with some contact cleaner first to see if that cures matters.. will update as things progress..
Probably just a cold, cracked solder connection. Haven't you inspected the solder joints? I'd quickly touch 'em up, as a matter of course.
+Koffi Banan I have inspected, but the freezer fixed it whatever was wrong. No need for re-touch. Until it stops again, so I can keep tracking what action causes what result.
Thanks for watching.
Hi, do you have the resistor values for R15, R2 and R3 (the ones adjacent to the 335K capacitor) please? I have a board that was fed with 230V instead of 120 and the resistors all have a black colour code now haha!
I'll be a few weeks before I can get to it, it's in storage
Ouchy, those black resistors ...
Did you manage to fix it? What was your solution?
Posted a pic of those resistors, but for 120V model
Thanks for sharing. I have the intermittent speedy control board on the KM25G. It turn ON after few tried and took me 10 minutes to resolved the issue.
Glad it helped
Just a heads up:
The quality of Kitchenaid products went downhill quite fast after the 70's.
If you're sick of dealing with them, fix them, resell them, then spend the money and get a Hobart n50.
+Winston Pavlenko I actually found this Kitchenaid in the dumpster. Shot a review of it: ruclips.net/video/1Bl1eHnNxVE/видео.html
I kept the Teddy Varimixer, also in that video for a while 4:40 - 5:20. Industrial grade, like Hobart.
+theoverengineer I've been watching your vids. Great deal on the kitchenaid.
The slide is a good place to start, but that wasn't the problem on my board. I have good speed control on the first 3 speeds but on the higher speeds it just stops the motor. Motor is good and runs flat out when the speed board is bypassed. So some component on the board is defective. None look burnt so I think it is a semiconductor? Which one I don't know. Probably not the SCR (heat sinked device), my guess is that it's one of the IC's?
What is that Yellow Capacitor? Can you share the info on that one? I need to replace it on my board.
Thanks
Can i ask what is the details for the mov or the metal oxide varistor.. becaus i already burn 2 speed control replacement because i forget to plug in 110 volts.. i just want to replace the mov so its more cheaper but i dont know the details for the mov.. thank you..
If the MOV looks good, it is probably just fine. They burn up catastrophically when bad.
Thank you for the video. Do you have a link where I could order this part?
No, sorry
It is not a pot. it is a switch with each contact sending a voltage to the IC. If you looked at the other side of the new board, the one you say has less components. You'll see there is an IC more advanced than the original.
Let me guess, the new board has the DIP uC replaced by a black COB?
WOW is it still working?
+Josh Barker Yup, no issues.
+theoverengineer Thanks I put a new board in my 600 to get it going again. I'm gonna try this I kept the old one. Thanks again.
Post the test results here, I`m interested if my finding is just a one-off or reliably repeatable.
Thanks for watching.
I sure will. Thanks
+theoverengineer Well the result is that it is still not working. The freeze method did not work for me. I left it in the freezer for over 24 hours and it is still DEAD. Oh well at least it is working with the new one.
Can you tell me where I can buy the sliver slider or part number
US an Canadian models KP, KT, KD, 4KP, 4KT, 4KD Serial numbers WL46 - present
Old part number 9707221, 9707220
New part number 9706648, 9706649, 9706650 with black, grey and buff color knobs
@@theoverengineer don't want to replace the entire board was hoping to be able to purchase just the silver slider (the part your talking about in video) that's under the part number
Here is one source www.newark.com/c/passive-components/potentiometers-trimmers-accessories/slide-potentiometers
@@theoverengineer Thank you so much
Thank for sharing useful VDO.
May you please tell me the value of Varistor in yoir broken board?
it is blue color near electricity comnector.
It`s a common MOV, says " 241 K DIO"
That's not a potentiometer. It is literally a tracked switch: one leg of the black switch sits on a long track bonded to 2 signal positions, the other sits on a track composed of multiple pads linked to the micro controller. So it basically switches +5v to a different leg of the mCU based on the switch position.
Hello, do you know the partnumber of C8? Or the value?
Thanks in advance
But but but why?
Hi my new model PCB speed problem how repair
Thank you
sorry sir. i want to varister number
pls. help me
hahaha some times you just get lucky
I found the problem
I spray the slider with CRC #03140 Contact Cleaner and Protectant - NSF registered, works like a charm. I buy it on Grainger.com, 1D261.
Thanks for the tip