Thank-you so very much! Before I ordered the circuit board, I removed the slide switch from it, and cleaned the 2 copper pieces with a Q-tip and acetone. After mounting the switch back onto it, and screwing it to the mixer, I tried it out and it worked! I would have been too intimidated to attempt this without your informative video. Thank-you for leaving your video up.
IT WORKED!! Breathed new life into my 20+-year-old machine! Great mom & son project :) Thank you for posting clear, easy-to-follow instructions. FYI, the new circuit board had the wide grey wire soldered to the board, so we had to remove the old one from the machine. There are tiny clips on the side of that plug; pushing them in to release (after some trial & error), and plugging in the new one worked out just fine. Can't wait to tackle some backed-up bread-making projects! Thrilled! Thank you again!
Thank you so much for this video. I literally cried when my stopped working, no thanks to my daughter. I followed your steps one by one, and my beloved mixer is working again. Luckily for my bank account, all it needed was give a good CLEAN. Couldn't have done it with out YOU. THANKS
Just wanted to say this video helped me out immensely!! I was searching for the same part number (your old non-working board) and was struggling.. I saw the new and only saw the two power posts on top of the board assuming it was the WRONG one (stupid me...). Thank you SO much for the videos and explanations. MUCH APPRECIATED!
After watching this video I fixed my Kitchenaid Professional 600 (6 qt) which had bad speed control board. Following the approach provided in this video I was able to determine motor/fuse worked fine but the control board didn't so I ordered the board by $19from Amazon and replaced it. Now it works again. Thanks a lot for the post!
Hotwire trick worked, saw another post to clean the board with electrical cleaner (8-10 bucks a can at any hardware or auto parts store), let it dry and it works!!! I was about to order a new board for 75 bucks. I cleaned both sides of the board. Gunk gets into that lever slot and gunks up the board.
This video was helpful. In my case it was the thermal fuse, based on a volt test. Got a 5-pack from an on-line electronics vendor and we’re mixing again. The fuse was on the opposite side near the back of the mixer. Careful with the brass clips and any sharp gadget you use to pry them open. They don’t come with the replacement. My fuse was a SF139E 10A 142 degree Celsius type.
I sprayed contact cleaner on the switch and cycled it back and forth several times to get mine working again. Thanks for the video; it helped me with testing the motor. Otherwise, your switch may have been good, just needing a cleaning. Cheers!
I was ready to start unsoldering components for testing but thought I'd give this a shot. After a squirt of cleaner, moving the switch back and forth a few times and then reassembling, it works perfectly! Definitely saved me a lot of time. Probably saved me $50 or so to replace the entire control circuit if I had been unable to find a failed component.
@@lexl9533 Same. I had a feeling it was the switch because it started to fail intermittently. Took it apart and before dropping $$ on control board decided to try a splash of WD. Bingo!! Saved the money AND the frustration I'd have felt when it still didn't work after replacing parts! Happy camper!
Thanks for helping me diagnose the problem with the mixer. Unfortunately, the speed control board is now twice the price since you made your video! Still cheaper than buying a new one.
failure of these control modules seems to be a common event. do you know why? any idea which component fails and whether replacing just the failed component will work?
This is very helpful. My replacement board has different size connectors, as the old pins are smaller. Did you cut the connectors to make them fit, or re-wire the connectors?
@@theoverengineer I just realized the connectors are different sizes and i just didn’t match them up! Haha. Thank you for the reply. I’m up and running!
Thank you so much for this video! My kitchen aid short-circuited when I plugged it in for the first time just after purchase. The voltage where I live is much higher than that used in the US. I'm not sure which part should be replaced. What would you recommend?
Hi, I see in your video you have exactly the same type of my kitchen aid mixer... I am trying to repair my kitchen aid pro 6 and found 1 diode(zd1) is broken and have to be replaced with new one. Unfortunately the type number on this diode's body is blur and can not be read. Can you inform me the type number of diode zd1 by seeing on your PCB ? That would be very helpful for me if you can do that .... Thank you!
Thanks for the vidoe. What is the tester you use before you replace the circuit called? When I search circuit testers, the items coming up look different
Very good video. Well done, well explained. I have a speed issue on a Kitchen aid pro 550 plus. when it's turned on, it accelerate incrementally on setting one. Weird. I though it was the Speed control board so I ordered a new one but the new one seems to be stuck at max speed and won't go any faster regardless of the speed setting. I'm going to return it and order another one but I was just wondering if you had any other suggestions ??? I doubt it's the engine or gearing coz the engine is basically on or off and the speed control board is basically controlling the speed by changing the current to the engine but it's just very weird that I get two different problems with two different boards...
Mixer isn’t spinning. I don’t know if it’s the circuitboard or what it is is there anyway you can help me figure it out without me giving so much money
How old is this video .I have this exact problem . I can't find this part for 32$ . Cheapest I found was 90$ ..do you have the website as to where you got it for 32$ Thank you Tony
Might want to check/clean with a needle DIRT being packed betweent those rotating shiny copper commutator segments. Or that there is enough length in the carbon blocks pressing against the copper plates. Here is more explanation: ruclips.net/video/9EHQJDhxZc0/видео.html and also ruclips.net/video/Cn_bb7DopO4/видео.html
We've replaced this switch so many times I can't remember. They seem to last no more than a year or 2. Wondering if this is normal, or if there's something else going on?
Sadly I think those days are long gone (the video and $35 comments are three years old. OP says he got it at www.reliableparts.com, it's ~$75 there now (part # 15549244). Maybe Ebay? I was lucky and a good cleaning of the switch cured my issue.
Thank you for the video... but my model is different... speed control is inside or under the motor and its not running too. Need your help model is ksm6573cer2
I got the machine from US (110v). My wife used it but connect to the AUS 240 supply. Two transistors visibly blew up black - I replaced them - but the motor still does not work - Any advices? Also - on the big red capacitor (on your PCB) it says 335K 250V - problably for 240V house supply voltage...Do you know what it may say on the PCB that is designed for 110V (like mine)..It says nothing on mine - Thanks
Test motor windings continuity like this ruclips.net/video/xfR524JZzPk/видео.html If it no beep, it no good. Make sure the probes have solid contact to the winding terminals, not the varnished wire coil.
Thank you so much for this video! I have a question, what is the green cable for? I had to tighten some of the screws beneath the motor because they were loose. After putting everything back together, the green wire started to spark when I plugged the mixer to the wall. What could be the issue?
Green is likely to be ground wire, but color coding changes to meet electrical codes in different countries. It sparks after some other wires get damaged, thus save one from electrocution.
I fix my only brake apart the black plastic to hold the board is a 4 screws and on the back on the bottom have 4 metal pin to hold just bend little take off and clean the contacts and bend little the 2 cooper legs put everything back and is working again no need a new board
Sounds like something overheats and develops an open. Look for loose connectors, cracked solder, charring, bulging around that heat sink and transistor, capacitors, but none of them can be opened and fixed. Might need to replace the whole PCB. Also connect the motor direct to AC for longer than 5 sec to test it.
Thank-you so very much! Before I ordered the circuit board, I removed the slide switch from it, and cleaned the 2 copper pieces with a Q-tip and acetone. After mounting the switch back onto it, and screwing it to the mixer, I tried it out and it worked! I would have been too intimidated to attempt this without your informative video. Thank-you for leaving your video up.
IT WORKED!! Breathed new life into my 20+-year-old machine! Great mom & son project :) Thank you for posting clear, easy-to-follow instructions. FYI, the new circuit board had the wide grey wire soldered to the board, so we had to remove the old one from the machine. There are tiny clips on the side of that plug; pushing them in to release (after some trial & error), and plugging in the new one worked out just fine. Can't wait to tackle some backed-up bread-making projects! Thrilled! Thank you again!
Just fixed My wife's mixer with your easy peasy method. IT's a miracle!!! Thank youvery much.
Finally, a real repair of a mixer video.
Really loved your tip for testing if the motor was still functioning and making it more likely that the issue was the switch/board. Thank you!
Thank you so much for this video. I literally cried when my stopped working, no thanks to my daughter. I followed your steps one by one, and my beloved mixer is working again. Luckily for my bank account, all it needed was give a good CLEAN. Couldn't have done it with out YOU. THANKS
Just wanted to say this video helped me out immensely!! I was searching for the same part number (your old non-working board) and was struggling.. I saw the new and only saw the two power posts on top of the board assuming it was the WRONG one (stupid me...). Thank you SO much for the videos and explanations. MUCH APPRECIATED!
After watching this video I fixed my Kitchenaid Professional 600 (6 qt) which had bad speed control board. Following the approach provided in this video I was able to determine motor/fuse worked fine but the control board didn't so I ordered the board by $19from Amazon and replaced it. Now it works again. Thanks a lot for the post!
Hotwire trick worked, saw another post to clean the board with electrical cleaner (8-10 bucks a can at any hardware or auto parts store), let it dry and it works!!! I was about to order a new board for 75 bucks. I cleaned both sides of the board. Gunk gets into that lever slot and gunks up the board.
Very informative and helpful. Thank you. It cost me about $51 (including shipping) to do this.
This video was helpful. In my case it was the thermal fuse, based on a volt test. Got a 5-pack from an on-line electronics vendor and we’re mixing again. The fuse was on the opposite side near the back of the mixer. Careful with the brass clips and any sharp gadget you use to pry them open. They don’t come with the replacement. My fuse was a SF139E 10A 142 degree Celsius type.
Thanks for the detail, mate.
I sprayed contact cleaner on the switch and cycled it back and forth several times to get mine working again. Thanks for the video; it helped me with testing the motor. Otherwise, your switch may have been good, just needing a cleaning. Cheers!
I was ready to start unsoldering components for testing but thought I'd give this a shot. After a squirt of cleaner, moving the switch back and forth a few times and then reassembling, it works perfectly! Definitely saved me a lot of time. Probably saved me $50 or so to replace the entire control circuit if I had been unable to find a failed component.
@@lexl9533 Same. I had a feeling it was the switch because it started to fail intermittently. Took it apart and before dropping $$ on control board decided to try a splash of WD. Bingo!! Saved the money AND the frustration I'd have felt when it still didn't work after replacing parts! Happy camper!
5
Thanks for the info, sprayed the board with electrical cleaner and that did it! Too much cake batter must have got in there.
I did the same thing.
Hi! Can I ask where you bought your replacement circuit board?
Thanks for helping me diagnose the problem with the mixer. Unfortunately, the speed control board is now twice the price since you made your video! Still cheaper than buying a new one.
Glad I could help
Did the hotwire trick and it worked thankyou! Can you link the board isolation video? I looked up the part and it is now 75 to 100 bucks. 😣
failure of these control modules seems to be a common event. do you know why? any idea which component fails and whether replacing just the failed component will work?
Capacitors, triacs, transistors ... never checked out a board which one actually failed. Let me know if someone does.
Great video and thank you! I was able to fix the mixer easily following your instructions.
This is very helpful. My replacement board has different size connectors, as the old pins are smaller. Did you cut the connectors to make them fit, or re-wire the connectors?
I'd cut the wires and leave the connectors plugged in.
@@theoverengineer I just realized the connectors are different sizes and i just didn’t match them up! Haha. Thank you for the reply. I’m up and running!
Thank you. It may have no fixed mine entirely but it is responding a little better.
Glad it helped
Something to try before you order the circuit card. Spray DetoxIT electrical cleaner (or other brand) on the switch first, it worked on mine.
Thanks for the info!
Thank you! This worked! Saved me 75 bucks.
the pot switch on mine just needed to be removed and clean the contacts . now all speeds work fine at a cost of zero dollars .
What type of capacitor is the round yellow one? Mine was blown and I cannot read what was written on it, all I can read is:
11
15
A8
Definitely I need this one too, did you figure it out?
Thank you so much for this video! My kitchen aid short-circuited when I plugged it in for the first time just after purchase. The voltage where I live is much higher than that used in the US. I'm not sure which part should be replaced. What would you recommend?
I don't do remote diagnostics, advice or recommendations. Your options range from getting a new machine to giving up and living without it.
@@theoverengineer thank you so much for your advice! blessings galore!
Hi, I see in your video you have exactly the same type of my kitchen aid mixer... I am trying to repair my kitchen aid pro 6 and found 1 diode(zd1) is broken and have to be replaced with new one. Unfortunately the type number on this diode's body is blur and can not be read. Can you inform me the type number of diode zd1 by seeing on your PCB ? That would be very helpful for me if you can do that .... Thank you!
Thank you! jumped the wires and I know the problem now.
Hi I have a question. Where I Will Buy electical board, I AM from Mexico
great video it will help me trouble shoot the one i stole.
Hi, does all the Kitchen Aid machine use the same worm gear and housing?
Not the exactly the same, but very similar.
What is the value of the yellow color part of the circuit?
Hello from where i can get this part. I can’t find it in the internet please
Thanks for the vidoe. What is the tester you use before you replace the circuit called? When I search circuit testers, the items coming up look different
None. Was a piece of wire.
Where did u order circuit board?
Long forgot it, sorry
Can you please tell me what is the label of the blue capacitor? Mine has burned out.
(I'm away from home for months, can't say until July)
Very good video. Well done, well explained.
I have a speed issue on a Kitchen aid pro 550 plus. when it's turned on, it accelerate incrementally on setting one. Weird. I though it was the Speed control board so I ordered a new one but the new one seems to be stuck at max speed and won't go any faster regardless of the speed setting. I'm going to return it and order another one but I was just wondering if you had any other suggestions ???
I doubt it's the engine or gearing coz the engine is basically on or off and the speed control board is basically controlling the speed by changing the current to the engine but it's just very weird that I get two different problems with two different boards...
Motor is fine, gears are innocent, it's all the control board ...
Mixer isn’t spinning. I don’t know if it’s the circuitboard or what it is is there anyway you can help me figure it out without me giving so much money
How old is this video .I have this exact problem . I can't find this part for 32$ . Cheapest I found was 90$ ..do you have the website as to where you got it for 32$
Thank you
Tony
Sept 29, 2015
Ebay? Amazon?
theoverengineer wow 2015 . Ebay has it 77 US $ . Amazon it at 85 Canadian .
O well . Happy wife happy life .
hI I JUST FOUND THIS PART FOR $58.80 AT SEARTS PARTS
Amazon had it at $58-70 depending on supplier.
I need a supplier for the same replacement board. I have the exact board and Kitchenaid parts cannot find the part. Where did you get your part?
Reliable Parts
My mixer has no power and nothing if I plug it in, I am suspecting carbon brushes. Can I test them before I order the brushes? Thanks for the help.
Great troubleshooting tip. Unfortunately mine still doesn't turn on. Looks like I need a new motor. We bought it used. Barely. Sigh.
Might want to check/clean with a needle DIRT being packed betweent those rotating shiny copper commutator segments. Or that there is enough length in the carbon blocks pressing against the copper plates.
Here is more explanation: ruclips.net/video/9EHQJDhxZc0/видео.html and also ruclips.net/video/Cn_bb7DopO4/видео.html
Turns out the fusible link failed. Replaced it and we are back in business.
Thank you, great job on the video . You are appreciated sir.
You are very welcome
We've replaced this switch so many times I can't remember. They seem to last no more than a year or 2. Wondering if this is normal, or if there's something else going on?
Should last longer, does cleanup help at all?
Where to order circuit board KA 600 110v ac
Is it still possible to find these for ~$35? I can only find them for closer to $75 - a big difference!
Sadly I think those days are long gone (the video and $35 comments are three years old. OP says he got it at www.reliableparts.com, it's ~$75 there now (part # 15549244). Maybe Ebay? I was lucky and a good cleaning of the switch cured my issue.
I'm really interested to see which component failed! Thanks!
+Koffi Banan Coming up in October, will include a link too of course.
@@theoverengineer good afternoon sir. Which component was broken please. Thanks and God Bless
haw can fix my stand mixer ec 160bg uk
Thank you for the video... but my model is different... speed control is inside or under the motor and its not running too. Need your help model is ksm6573cer2
I got the machine from US (110v). My wife used it but connect to the AUS 240 supply. Two transistors visibly blew up black - I replaced them - but the motor still does not work - Any advices? Also - on the big red capacitor (on your PCB) it says 335K 250V - problably for 240V house supply voltage...Do you know what it may say on the PCB that is designed for 110V (like mine)..It says nothing on mine - Thanks
Test motor windings continuity like this ruclips.net/video/xfR524JZzPk/видео.html
If it no beep, it no good.
Make sure the probes have solid contact to the winding terminals, not the varnished wire coil.
Great Video 👍 is it possible to run a US 110v 60hz version running on 230v 50hz by just changing this board with the 230v version?
Replace your wife!!!!!!!
Got mine working again but now there's only one speed the highest one. Any suggestions?
The variable resistor must check out first, triac can go second.
you didn't just connect the wire and put it back together did you?? that's just to test that the motor works outside of the controlling circuit board.
Thank you so much for this video! I have a question, what is the green cable for? I had to tighten some of the screws beneath the motor because they were loose. After putting everything back together, the green wire started to spark when I plugged the mixer to the wall. What could be the issue?
Green is likely to be ground wire, but color coding changes to meet electrical codes in different countries. It sparks after some other wires get damaged, thus save one from electrocution.
I fix my only brake apart the black plastic to hold the board is a 4 screws and on the back on the bottom have 4 metal pin to hold just bend little take off and clean the contacts and bend little the 2 cooper legs put everything back and is working again no need a new board
Same thing to me. I pass a little sand paper on the connectors and the printed circuit, and works like a new! :) Thanks !
Mine keeps tripping the breakers as soon as you turn it on what should I be looking for my model is KitchenAid K45ss
Bare wires shorting to the housing somewhere at a tight bend.
I will have a good check for that, trying to work out your accent dutch??
hello sir, what is the value of R15, R2, R3 and MOV1 valve....my PCB faulty. i need to repair. please help me
Identify from standard North American resistor color coding charts
Thanks fixed my Pro 600
mine shuts down after 5 seconds turn off, turn on shuts down again in 5 seconds, any ideas?
Sounds like something overheats and develops an open. Look for loose connectors, cracked solder, charring, bulging around that heat sink and transistor, capacitors, but none of them can be opened and fixed. Might need to replace the whole PCB. Also connect the motor direct to AC for longer than 5 sec to test it.
Try cleaning the speed selector switch with QD Contact Cleaner. Did the trick for me.
My KitchenAid suffered 230 W...!!! Now - silence! Any ideas what has gone wrong and what to do?
Diodes in rectifier circuit are my first guess
Great video. Got mine working after cleaning the potentiometer track.
Wonder explant thanks You
Mine it makes noise but it doesn't rotate
broken gear somewhere
Nice video
32 dollars in usa 100£ in uk which is 132$ us, we are always ripped off here