I went to Home Depot tonight to buy the Birch butcher block countertop, and saw this exact Hevea for $40 cheaper. I made an impulse decision and went with the Rubber wood, and happened to stumble across this video. Looks good! I can't wait to get to work!
John's laid back demeanor & absolute mastery of his trade are exactly what i needed, thx. also, i keep seeing "food safe" concerns... but i don't understand why.... do people really not use plates & such for food-prep? are they seriously tossin ingredients together on bare countertop or eating straight off it? lol, am i missin somethin here?
Great question! Some people use their butcher block countertops as cutting boards so we have to make sure they get the right information and aren't using a stain with a permanent sealant if they intend to cut any items on it.
Just purchased our island butcher block countertop at HD, cut to size, sanded, sealed and installed. We’re reluctant to go with the full countertop replacement however.
I have a dead space in the corner of my kitchen with no acess back there how can i fasten my butcher block in that corner if i cant get to it from the bottom its a 24x24 space will my butcher block be fine not fastened down in that corner? All info and help is appreciated
PLEASE ANSWER. You call this a beech and I love the light color of it. Yet in Home Depot the beech you sell has a darker color to it. could you please send me the link to this particular item?
Sorry about that. Here is what we did. On the countertop surface we did Howard's butcher block conditioner (all 6-sides). On all the shelving we did a flooring grade polyurethane.
@@HardwoodReflections Is the butcher block conditioner applied before installation? do you cut and glue the pieces also before the butcher block oil, or after?
@@user-hd8ej8yx9p You can do it before or after, but if you do it before make sure you do not oil the butt joints - keep those white - the glue will seal them. Since its recommended to apply a sealant within a few days of opening the shrink wrap, it might make sense to apply before installation, especially if the countertops will sit for days or weeks before installation. If you anticipate fitting and placing the countertops immediately after opening the shrink wrap, they you could seal afterwards if work quickly (within 48 hours I believe).
We would recommend using conditioner only in this case and follow Howard's recommendations for applying their product. Remember, using oil or conditioner does require reapplication overtime to keep your butcher block protected from moisture or drying out.
So for my miter joints, I plan to use biscuits and glue. Do I also need to use pocket screws to draw the joint together or is pressing them together with just glue/biscuits suffice?
You can use one or the other for your project. You will want to make sure you have clamps from edge to edge of your miter to ensure a steady dry period.
That is, for the pieces with grain that runs in the same direction. The miter joint shouldn’t have glue or screws to allow for wood movement. Draw bolt joint connectors will do the trick. I’m not sure how to keep the surfaces the same height without a domino or biscuit tool though.
@@harlowpinson5678 Hello Harlow - The floor polyurethane is not one of the known food-safe options. Check out food-safe options if you'd like to use your butcher block countertop as a cutting board here: hardwoodreflections.com/how-to-make-a-butcher-block-countertop-food-safe/
@@HardwoodReflections Thank you! I'm finishing with Monocoat 2C. Do you know if the silicone will adhere to it or should I leave the wood raw where the silicone is?
You don't use a floor polyurethane on a countertop you need it safe for food!! That's some wrong info there. You use mineral oil it's much safer for food contact
You aren't wrong in your point about Mineral Oil. While there are many other options, food safe recommendations mean you can safely cut your food directly on the countertop just as a cutting board. Many of our customers do not use their countertops as a cutting board. For more details on this check out: hardwoodreflections.com/how-to-make-a-butcher-block-countertop-food-safe/
It's one thing to make your counter top seam right where all the WATER will be, at the sink. But, to then be cheap and not spend the extra 10 cents and NOT use Water Proof Glue (Titebond # 3 by the way) to attach the pieces? Come on. Maybe "saving a penny" and mess up an entire job that can give us all bad names. And your name is on this. Hmmm...... Glad it's not ours.
Because of this channel I bought a Hardwood reflections Butcher Block at Home Depot.
We love hearing that! I was worried about such a long video but hope this answers a lot of questions.
I went to Home Depot tonight to buy the Birch butcher block countertop, and saw this exact Hevea for $40 cheaper. I made an impulse decision and went with the Rubber wood, and happened to stumble across this video. Looks good! I can't wait to get to work!
Thanks for the video. You answered my question about the seam in the sink area. I will be ordering the maple butcher block today from Home Depot
Right on!
@@HardwoodReflections How do I get John to come install my counter? :)
Great video. I learned a lot. Thanks.
Really appreciate your doing these. They are really helpful.
John's laid back demeanor & absolute mastery of his trade are exactly what i needed, thx.
also, i keep seeing "food safe" concerns... but i don't understand why.... do people really not use plates & such for food-prep? are they seriously tossin ingredients together on bare countertop or eating straight off it? lol, am i missin somethin here?
Great question! Some people use their butcher block countertops as cutting boards so we have to make sure they get the right information and aren't using a stain with a permanent sealant if they intend to cut any items on it.
@@HardwoodReflections ...oh man, I couldn't imagine spending all this time & money on beautiful counters, just to drag a knife across them!
I was hoping to see how you cut the wood for a sink to be dropped in.
Spade bit in each corner, then cut with a jigsaw, finish by sanding the rough edge or router to finish.
Just purchased our island butcher block countertop at HD, cut to size, sanded, sealed and installed. We’re reluctant to go with the full countertop replacement however.
Let us know if we can answer any questions.
Wish you could have shown how to apply the polyethylene
polyurethane, not polyethylene! It comes wrapped in a polyethylene film to protect it, but you finish it with polyurethane.
This dude reminds me of Roy from The Office
I have a dead space in the corner of my kitchen with no acess back there how can i fasten my butcher block in that corner if i cant get to it from the bottom its a 24x24 space will my butcher block be fine not fastened down in that corner? All info and help is appreciated
awesome tips
When I used my DA with 220 I could see the swirl marks in the stain
Do you glue the biscuits/joint which in the miter, or will this not permit the miter joint to expand/contract?
Will there be food contamination, from the poly?
PLEASE ANSWER. You call this a beech and I love the light color of it. Yet in Home Depot the beech you sell has a darker color to it. could you please send me the link to this particular item?
Please address
I think the photos on HD look darker. These are the exact ones we sell on Homedepot.com
Good stuff
Butcher block is endgrain up,
Sadly I watched this entire video just to see how they sealed the counter. And that's the only thing they skipped 😭
Sorry about that. Here is what we did. On the countertop surface we did Howard's butcher block conditioner (all 6-sides). On all the shelving we did a flooring grade polyurethane.
@@HardwoodReflections Is the butcher block conditioner applied before installation? do you cut and glue the pieces also before the butcher block oil, or after?
@@user-hd8ej8yx9p You can do it before or after, but if you do it before make sure you do not oil the butt joints - keep those white - the glue will seal them. Since its recommended to apply a sealant within a few days of opening the shrink wrap, it might make sense to apply before installation, especially if the countertops will sit for days or weeks before installation. If you anticipate fitting and placing the countertops immediately after opening the shrink wrap, they you could seal afterwards if work quickly (within 48 hours I believe).
A floor finish on a countertop you set food on😮🧐🤔
Why don't you use an L bracket to allow for expansion?
Is it safe to do a drop in stove ?
Did you use several coats of Howards oil first, then Howards conditioner, or just Howards conditioner....if so, how many coats
We would recommend using conditioner only in this case and follow Howard's recommendations for applying their product. Remember, using oil or conditioner does require reapplication overtime to keep your butcher block protected from moisture or drying out.
Great kitchen! Love the shelves. How are the shelves installed?
We ripped the beech down to 12" wide. Got some brackets and did 4-coats of polyurethane. They are so cool.
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So for my miter joints, I plan to use biscuits and glue. Do I also need to use pocket screws to draw the joint together or is pressing them together with just glue/biscuits suffice?
You can use one or the other for your project. You will want to make sure you have clamps from edge to edge of your miter to ensure a steady dry period.
pocket screws is better than the clamps
How did you cut the sink pattern out?
Check out this video from Carpentry Plus with great pointers and tips ruclips.net/video/DoLKcaL6hVg/видео.html
Could you still use pocket holes rather than doing biscuit joints or domino joints?
Yes. Use some wood glue between the pieces before the pocket screws.
That is, for the pieces with grain that runs in the same direction. The miter joint shouldn’t have glue or screws to allow for wood movement. Draw bolt joint connectors will do the trick.
I’m not sure how to keep the surfaces the same height without a domino or biscuit tool though.
Do you use the mitre bolts instead of the screws on certain situations?
Milan-you could use miter bolts but I think that is way to much work and overkill.
What floor polyurethane did you use on bucher block. Thanks
The one in this video we used Minwax poly for floors.
@@HardwoodReflections Is this food safe?
@@harlowpinson5678 Hello Harlow - The floor polyurethane is not one of the known food-safe options. Check out food-safe options if you'd like to use your butcher block countertop as a cutting board here: hardwoodreflections.com/how-to-make-a-butcher-block-countertop-food-safe/
@@harlowpinson5678 No. If you need food safe go with mineral oil or butcher block conditioner.
@@HardwoodReflections If it's a kitchen countertop used to prep food, yes I think food safe would be preferable. LOL
Do you use silicone to mount the sink?
Yes. The silicone also helps the butcher block expand and contract over time.
@@HardwoodReflections Thank you! I'm finishing with Monocoat 2C. Do you know if the silicone will adhere to it or should I leave the wood raw where the silicone is?
Did I hear someone Fart at 15:24 ? lol
Man that is a funny comment.
I think it was the tape that reeled back in....bummer, I was hoping otherwise. 🙃
You don't use a floor polyurethane on a countertop you need it safe for food!! That's some wrong info there. You use mineral oil it's much safer for food contact
You aren't wrong in your point about Mineral Oil. While there are many other options, food safe recommendations mean you can safely cut your food directly on the countertop just as a cutting board. Many of our customers do not use their countertops as a cutting board. For more details on this check out: hardwoodreflections.com/how-to-make-a-butcher-block-countertop-food-safe/
it looks like a 20yr old dated kitchen.... and it was just finished? jesus..
It's one thing to make your counter top seam right where all the WATER will be, at the sink. But, to then be cheap and not spend the extra 10 cents and NOT use Water Proof Glue (Titebond # 3 by the way) to attach the pieces? Come on. Maybe "saving a penny" and mess up an entire job that can give us all bad names. And your name is on this. Hmmm...... Glad it's not ours.