How to Connect and Adjoin Butcher Block - Hardwood Reflections
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 30 июл 2024
- Here's an easy tutorial to help you create the best seam possible in your DIY countertop project!
Tips for Wood Working and Butcher Block joining for long pieces :
- Allow for 3/4" of scrap in your total length needed for your project.
- Square up the edges to remove the eased edge (round over).
- When marking your wood, put an X on both pieces in one corner.
2:47 - Using Pocket Screws to adjoin butcher block 
Хобби
We have been stressing so much about joining two butcher blocks together for a kitchen island and this makes it look SO easy! Thanks for the no-frills, professional and informative video.
same here. how did yours come out ?
@@Papo-of3vm Great! I have been living in my house for a year and a half now, The join still looks great. We used the method in this video and then clamped with pipe clamps. Hope your project goes well!
This is EXACTLY what I needed to see! I'm joining (2) pieces to make a vanity top (only because I don't have a solid piece of butcher block and right now in 2022 wood supplies are VERY expensive!). Thank you very much for this video!!
Quality and simplicity.... Very nicely done!
I don't need to do this, but that was very cool and informative to watch anyways!
What are your thoughts on using miter bolts instead of this method? Great video!
What about doing a butt joinery for a L countertop? If I take that half inch off of the front face of the connecting L, my countertop depth is no longer the 25 inches and will instead be almost flush with the front of my cabinets. Should I just take the 3/8" off of the section to be joined but leave the rest the full 25 inches?
That was helpful thanks
Grate. Thank you !!!!
wouldnt doing a 45 degree joint on both sides result in a more flush fit/finish?
I've had the chance to use this table a couple of times now. It's fun to whip out in front of people:) I can see what people are talking about when they say the legs are delicate, but they're design to support a "mostly" vertical load, not be torqued from the side or pushed back into place. If you just let the table open or close on it's own and don't force anything, it works great ruclips.net/user/postUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh Once it's set up, it's pretty solid. My only gripe would probably be related to the clamps provided. They're not the highest quality. They do the job, so no big deal, but they could be better. All in all, pretty cool gadget.
What was the blade specs in the saw? Thanks for the information
Buddy wants me to make a 3x8, can it be done in a8 foot section or two 4 ft pieces.
I really like the workbench they are using. Wonder if it is homemade?
what pocket hole jib from Kreg is that?
Thank you! Do you have any advise on joining butcher block to quartz?
Don't. 😁
Silly question but I shall ask. Since This is end on end you do not have to worry about expanding and contracting. however, if I am making one side by side could the same process be used, or do I have to worry about expanding and contracting? ( and as an added question, do I need to rip the edges on the side as you did on the edges
?)
Not a silly question! You will want to make sure all sides and edges are sealed / finished to ensure there is no expansion or contraction. Any joining projects should be ripped on the edge for a better joint.
I have euro walnut butcher block, can I join using the kreg course or fine screws? Based on thickness, I would need 2 in screws but kreg doesn’t sell the fine screws in 2in? Would using the course screws chew up the wood? Your recommendation?
I bought both and found the course screws pulled in tighter and felt more secure
Decking screws right?
You have video of .joining for an island .?
My butcher block is 1¾ thick. Do you know the settings on jig, bit,, and screw size to join pieces with pocket holes? Having a hard time finding anything online.
Hi Nicholas! Great question. The size jig you choose will need to fit the size screw, etc. You will decide that as there is not a set standard. A general tip For pocket holes is that if the pocket hole is 1 inch, use 1.5 inch. If it’s 1 ½ inch, use a two inch, etc.
In short, pick the size pocket hole you want, pick the jig to make the hole, and buy the screw that fits the hole. The screws will need to be ½ inch longer than the hole.
I followed this video but did not realize there were different kreg pocket hole screws for hard woods. Do I need to be worried that I used the “wrong” screws. I’ve already used dominoes and glued them together
Hi. Could you clarify about the pocket screws? John states 2" pocket screws, but Kreg recommends 2 1/2" for 1.5" material. No hardwood fine thread screw is available from any manufacturer as far as I can tell. Any problems using the 2" or 2 1/2" course thread screws?
Did some experiments. The pocket screws do not work well with harder woods like ash, maple or oak. The 2" course thread drives the wood joint apart not together, and a drill will have difficulty when it hits that hard face of the second panel. My guess John's example is using softer butcher block like beech or birch. Solution would be either to clamp somehow prior to inserting screws, or pilot holes, but getting the right angle is difficult. Even if you clamp, the screws will have difficulty self tapping into the second face. If you have harder wood, look for some other method besides pocket holes to join. Perhaps screw scrap to the 2 bottom surfaces, and clamp those. Also, biscuits are very weak laterally. Use maple or oak dowels instead.
Harlow-make sure the angle of the Kreg and the length of the screw will not penetrate the top of the wood. 100% make sure you pilot hole before you screw.
I'm so glad I found this video. I'm about to purchase two of your 8 ft. slabs from Home Depot. How do you recommend hiding the seam between the two pieces? We are making a 14'10" slab for the top of living room built ins. Thanks in advance!
Glad you found it helpful! That is quite the project! Which wood species did you choose?
@@HardwoodReflections I was thinking either the unfinished birch or unfinished maple. We are going to stain them and use them as the countertop for a whole wall of built in cabinets under our tv.
@@lindseyusiak72 The seam with these two lighter pieces with consistent stave colors will be next to invisible. In the video, John talks about gluing and then sanding after it's dry to reduce the visibility of the seam too. Check that out starting at 9:10 in the vid!
@@HardwoodReflections Perfect! I just re-watched. I must have missed it. I was watching with my very loud toddler :) What grit of sand paper do you recommend using after gluing? Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! I can't wait to do this project!
Can I use Biscuits and pocket hole screws + glue to joint 2 pieces instead of dominos. I need 84 inches in length. How sturdy will this be? It will be used as a desk top but if I ever have to move it I don’t want it to break where it is joined.
Thank you in advance
Instead of joining two pieces to achieve 84", might I suggest purchasing a 96" slab and cutting it down to 84.
Does this same technique work for joining parallel versus the end to end?
Yeah he said that in video
just saw this and wanted to know. Do you need to or should you glue the dominos? required? thanks and great video!
I’m about to try it with a biscuit joiner. Domino joiners are very pricey for the cáusela use.
Keep in mind biscuits have almost no lateral strength. If the joint flexes during installation it could well pop the glue seam. Short of a domino joiner, thick dowels might be the best choice.
I like to add some wood glue with the domino.
Is use of the pocket screws on this connection a good idea? Screw will enter the end of the board along the grains and do not grab the same strong as if it enters perpendicular the grains. May this connection get loose with a time?
They said at the end that they'd also glue it if they were doing it for real
I need to do this at an angle creating a u wish I could do this method but I don't think it's possible
Do all the edges have a roundover out of the box? If so, what is the radius? (1/4, 3/16,etc.) Do your customers typically add a roundover for comfort, especially for a bar-height counter?
We use a 1/8" eased edge. Usually feels good on the arms when laying across the wood. You can easily knock down more edge using sand paper.
Great video! Carpentry 101 !!👍🏽
Do you offer classes?
Hi can you tell me what to use to put on it food safe butcher block
We've got a whole tutorial for you Diana! Check it out here: hardwoodreflections.com/how-to-make-a-butcher-block-countertop-food-safe/
The edge still has a space between the two pieces. What would you do about that? Thanks.
When I cut my butcher block, I saved the shavings. Once glued and screwed I filled any small gaps with glue forcibly, followed by the saw dust, followed by more glue and saw dust. Once dried and sanded it is a perfect material match
@@JeffLifeInReview Great. Thanks.
Jeff's reply below is great. I like to take some Elmers glue along with the saw dust and make a putty in my hand. Then I push that along the seam.....let dry for a day and then lightly sand flat.
I get the sawdust and glue concept to fill a hairline gap; however, being oiled will there still be a noticeable line between the two pieces?
Just a thought for those who can't find the correct length pocket screw.
I believe cabinet screws are the same as far as being flat on bottom.
Use 2 1/2 inch kreg pockets screws
Be certain to use "Fine Thread" on the hardwood butcher-block...
Kreg DOES NOT make a 2.5" Fine Thread screw, you will need to set the jig to 1" and utilize 1.5" Fine-Thread screws...
Might have gotten a little lost on this but why does it matter if you use the domino jointer from the same side on both blocks (work from back of block to front on both blocks)?
I think as I understood it, that he meant making sure on both pieces, the holes were placed at the same height-either near the top of the underside of the butcher block or the bottom.
Not accidentally doing one piece near the top and the other at the bottom
@@barefootledgefarm4359 Ah! Thank you for the clarification, that does make a lot of sense. For what it’s worth, I just installed my butcher block countertops and I joined slabs together with this method (I used miter bolts and biscuits but same difference really) and it worked perfectly
You mention even before you glue it. Aren't you supposed to not use glue to allow expanding and contracting depending on weather?
Sometimes I do not articulate well. Do not glue to block to cabinets.....this does not work well. Use screws from the cabinet up into the butcher block.
If the grains of the wood are going in the same direction, glue is fine...the slabs will expand and contract at the same rate and direction. If you are doing a miter cut or a T or L shape where grain is in different directions at the joint, do not glue, the glue will fail eventually...you'll need to slightly oversize the biscuit holes as well to allow lateral movement from this natural expansion and contraction in this case as well (biscuits are only there to control up and down travel anyways).
What about a kit that installs threading nut on the opposite end so you can use machine screws for joinery?
----> just saw another video about dominos and knockdown connectors. That looks like what I want
Now I just need to go spend $5000 on tools so I can make a $250 counter top.
Yeah. I think the biscuit machine is cheaper. You might be able to use a plunger oscillating tool if you have that. That's what I'm gonna try I think. Maybe there's an attachment. The screw jig I've seen pricey but I think you can search on here a DIY pocket jig. The screws you might be able to use decking screws. The only other thing is a circular saw and a guide rail track which you can DIY that too.
Sorry we got a little fancy. We are working on a video with more common tooling.
Tools are an investment. Now you’ll always have them for other projects
He covers other tools you can use if you pay attention to the whole video.
What is the best way to adjoin corners? Butt joint or miter? I prefer the look of a butt joint, but am worried about wood movement.
I used a miter in my house. No problems after seven years. Looks smooth and good.
Where can I buy a domino cutter like the one you are using. Thank you.I don’t want biscuit cutter.
I have one I'll sell you only $3000
How would you join with a miter joint?
Great question. You would want to start with your angled miter cut (hardwoodreflections.com/cutting-butcher-block/) and then proceed on both of those cuts as mentioned in the video with the straight seam.
What is the tool you are using I want to get same item. I don’t want biscuit cutter I want dominos. Ty
Festool make it. Domino's are patented by festool, so you can't get it from another company, but you can make the same type of hole using a router.
8:47 why is there still a big old gap there?
Great question. That edge was against the wall in the cabin's install so we didn't need to seam up. If that was on the front the homeowner would be super unhappy and that would be unacceptable. If this were going on the front we would have cut down one block about 1/8" to square and seam up.
I have a butcher counter top that is to long i need to cut 4 inches off. Are they made to cut and can it be cut with a circular saw?
If you choose one of our butcher block products that is unfinished, you can confidently trim it to your custom size! If the saw blade is newer, you'll find it to be an easy task.
I thought you would apply some wood glue on those dominoes🤔 Well as long as its plenty strong with just the screws.
We use wood glue with biscuit joints.
What brand pocket drill is that?
We used a Kreg Tool.
the hardest part here is to cut the block and have a 90degree edge. use a combination square to check.
The wood is backwards. It was joined incorrect with the wood pattern.
your basic homeowner doesn't have access to this type saw
If you’re talking about the domino you could just as easily use a $20 dowel jig. I think they mention that in the video. They’re not for strength, just to keep things aligned.
you can easily swap out the track saw for a clamp edge/saw guide and a circular saw… just make sure you square it all up
Scrub.
really snuck that pun in at the last second smh
Shame the edge didn't close up cameraman tried to move so we couldn't see it but I spotted it.
Hello and thanks for the comment. We can share more about our product if you help us with your question. What would you like to see?
I like how he days we are gonna use pockets screws but then uses domino's lol
Bob Bond! You are right! At 2:46 John mentions one idea for joining using the pocket screws and then moved to a different option that he calls out at 3:03.
@@HardwoodReflections He didn't mention one idea he clearly says he will use pockets screws .
@@bobbond6028 domino's control vertical travel of the slabs...he then uses pocket screws to adjoin the slabs. It's a 10 minute video, I'm not sure how you missed it.
No use of glue huh?
Pay attention to the whole video.
Good video. Quality tools used, a little too much quality ($$) for a DIY'er. Still helpful though.
Dogbones
This should be called how to join butcher block for 1600 bucks.
02NOV2020 - Roger that. That Festool saw and track is $600-800 depending on which saw you get.
Use one of the simple pocket hole jigs which costs about $20 and a dowel edge join jig which is $30. Wish they had demonstrated that rather than the expensive Festool domino joiner.
That does have a ring to it :) In other videos we use a biscuit joiner. If you wanna get super inexpensive we could simply butt joint.
a $1200 domino jointer is needed. lol. why waste time. if you can just buy one of these jointers you dont need this video
unfortunate name
I really like the Stodoys plans.