Honda Goldwing Front Wheel Bearing Replacement | Partzilla.com
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- Опубликовано: 10 мар 2019
- Buy replacement front wheel bearings for a Honda Goldwing here: bit.ly/honda-goldwing-front-wh...
Pay attention to the parts: there are two DIFFERENT dust seals with different part numbers that you’ll need for this job, one for each side. You’ll also need two of the SAME radial ball bearings.
Learn how to replace the wheel bearings on a Honda Goldwing in this video from Partzilla.com. How do you know if your wheel bearings are worn? You may feel a little shimmy in the front end, or you might feel a clicking that radiates from the wheel through the handlebar.
Replacing the front wheel bearings on your Goldwing starts by removing the wheel. We’ll show you how to remove the fender and the brake calipers so that you can get that done. Then, we’ll remove the dust seals and use a bearing remover to get the bearings out. Then we’ll use a driver set to replace the wheel bearings on our Honda motorcycle, and then we’ll follow it up by replacing the dust seals on both sides.
Stay with us as we put everything back together again. John will show you a trick to keep both sides of the fork parallel, which is important to keep the motorcycle’s steering system from binding.
See a diagram of the front wheel on your Honda Goldwing here: www.partzilla.com/catalog/hon...
Need a bearing remover kit? Find one at Partzilla.com:
www.partzilla.com/product/suz...
How about a bearing driver kit? Find it here at Partzilla.com:
www.partzilla.com/product/aft...
You’re already working on the front end, let’s change the brake pads on your Honda Goldwing:
• Goldwing Front Brake P...
Then you can change the rear brake pads on your Goldwing:
• Honda Goldwing Rear Br...
Read how to do a Goldwing wheel bearing change step-by-step: www.partzilla.com/blog/honda/...
VIDEO HIGHLIGHTS:
Removing the fender - 2:35
Removing the calipers - 3:00
Removing the axle nut - 3:40
Removing the axle and wheel - 4:00
Removing wheel bearing seals - 4:20
Installing new bearings - 7:00
Installing the bearing dust seal - 8:00
Re-mounting the fender - 9:35
Re-mounting the front wheel - 10:50
Re-mounting the calipers - 13:30
Buy OEM Honda Goldwing GL1800 parts here:
www.partzilla.com/catalog/hon...
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In the video we’re working with a 2007 Honda Goldwing GL1800, but you may have similar steps for your Honda motorcycle. If you’re not sure whether these steps apply to your motorcycle, leave a comment and we’ll get back to you.
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Авто/Мото
It takes a few minutes longer, but I like to chill the bearings in a freezer and heat the hub with a heat gun. Sometimes doing this will allow the bearings to fall into place with almost no driving required. A little heat also makes pulling the bearings a fair bit easier.
Great Video , the way you explain and show the work is awesome!! very helpful and allows me to perform my own work and save a few dollars. Thanks
Thankyou Sir, you make some good tutorials
Very good (great) instruction video. Thanks!
LOL! Link to bearing remover kit is $560. Of course that's cause it has a suzuki name on it. You can get them for under $100 or just bang them out if you know what you're doing. I have a pit posse one that I got for around $40. I have the motion pro driver kit and another one I got off ebay for different sizes that looks like the one in the video. They work great. Good vid though. I like partzilla for parts
great video, when I put my bike this afternoon from the standard, I heara kliking, at home i notished a litle rocking at my fronwheel, so I have to replace thebearings, my bike has run 186000KM so I think that is not bad
Glad I seen your video I have a 2003 Honda Goldwing 93000 MI I hear a slight humming coming from the front and when I go to a turn it goes away when I straighten back up it starts humming again so I'm sure it's the wheel bearing
You are great
Wonder if we could put the bearings in the freezer before driving them in?
I noticed that you didn't use new caliper bolts. (the 4 with nylock threads) Honda say replace these caliper bolts each time and not reuse. Would you not at least use some blue loc-tite on these?
Mr. Talley would it be a good idea to heat up the hub and or put the bearings in the freezer before pushing in the bearings? Obviously not necessary but most bearing change jobs seem to do this under the belief that the hub inner surface is less damaged when driving in the new bearings.
Rajkiran Natarajan This can help, mainly on larger bearings. I just replaced the pivot bearings on the FD of my BMW paralever and the heating of housing and freezing of bearing didn’t help much. I’ve had other bearings where the bearing would simply drop in place with heating and cooling. So, I think the answer is: it depends. Most service manuals suggest pressing or driving in bearings just as John shows here. The only caveat with driving bearings is to be sure to drive on the outer race so that the pounding force is not being transmitted through the rolling elements of the bearing. Follow that rule, and you can pound on bearings all day.
Great videos!! I want your torque wrench. What brand is it?
SnapOn!
Hi mr.John I was hoping you had a video of installing an engine on a quad.... it would help me out if I saw a professional doing it any help would be greatly appreciated
Hi Mr. John, question, my GL1800 2007, it has abs flashing issue. Sometimes it doesnt but mostly abs light is blinking. How can I solve this? Thanks
Perfeito
Bearing + hammer is probably a bad idea
pisiont groszy Not if you know what you are doing.
Removal of the left front caliper pads is a good idea but removal of the left front caliper is totally unnecessary. Remove the right front caliper and the wheel will roll out just fine without the need to remove either the left front caliper or the pads.
You are right. Pretty good shortcut. Also, by not removing the left caliper, you don't disturb the actuating rod for the anti dive valve. I usually just put some masking tape on both sides of the wheel so I don't scratch the wheel with a caliper as I roll it out.
While the inner spacer is out, you should cut a small notch, say maybe 1/8 inch at (12 and 6) on one end. That way a normal priced bearing remover can be used or a regular punch instead of having to spend a ridiculous amount of bank for one tool. Shame on Honda for this needless oversight.