Good news! We now make and sell the proper wheel-bearing retainer removal tools! Check them out if you are performing this repair because they will make your life a lot easier. Front Disk Brake Wheel Bearing Retainer Tool: www.common-motor.com/honda-front-disc-brake-wheel-bearing-retainer-tool-cb200-cb350g-cb360-cb450-cb550-cb750 Rear Wheel Bearing Retainer Tool: www.common-motor.com/honda-rear-wheel-bearing-retainer-tool-cb350-cb360-cb450-cb550-cb750
Thank you for these great videos, very helpful 🙏 A cautinary tale - I believe the CB550 rear wheel bearing retainer is left hand thread whereas other models are normal thread.
OMFG!!! NEVER would have thought of using a couple of bolts!! Just came right off with nom speacial tools! Sometimes it's the simple things! Thanks VERY much!
Incredibly helpful. Thank you guys so much for taking the time to make these excellent videos. My only recommended change to the re-install sequence, is to install retaining ring immediately after installing that side's bearing. The reason being, in case you need to gently use a hammer and socket to seat the opposite bearing against the spacer tube, you don't want to risk unseating the first bearing.
I have also spent a small fortune on your products. ( money well spent) I have never received such great customer service than with your outfit. Thank you for the quality parts, the great service, extremely great shipping and of coarse your informative videos. - Letter Carrier David-
Glad I spotted this since I'm having to re-spoke my rims anyways, and will be replacing the bearings and seals after the re-spoke is finished. Great tips on the retainer details.
Very cool my friend. Excellent how too. I think my bearings are good to go but may go ahead and replace them. I was considering an overhaul of the motor but it runs like a top so I think I'll just leave it alone for now. Thanks again guys. I spent the most part of the last 3 years getting sawed on...ha so your company and these videos have got me back to speed.. You shall never know how much this means to me. Thank you
Not sure how hard it would be to update this video or add the info, but the front wheel bearing kit you sell for the Cb360 does NOT actually include the seal for the speedometer drive. At least mine did not come with it. I really need one but unsure of the part.
Another great video, thanks Brenden. I was about to mangle the bearing retainer on my 72 CB500 when I figured I'd better check CMC for a tool, and you guys had a great video to boot. I was only going to repack the original bearings, but you convinced me to replace them. I just ordered the whole kit and kabootle.
@@Common-motor Folks: I also got your bearing retainer tool which made the removal a lot easier! Just a note though - on my 72 CB500 the bearing retainer on the rear wheel has a left hand (reverse) thread. Good thing I caught that in the shop manual - otherwise I'd still be heating up the hub and trying to turn the retainer the wrong way! I also serviced the drum brake and installed the new brake shoes I got from you - another great Brenden video made the job a lot easier. I appreciate the little tips that he throws in.
@@donaldcohen4453 Good call-out for the fellow CB500 owners! Glad they helped to get the job done. We're excited to have them instead of the homemade tools we used a few years ago!
Need more on the rear wheel such as showing how the spacers go in the wheel. Mine is two piece and I'd like to see a bit more on setting the bearings and how you align the short spacer....which end?
On A550K78, it's left-handed threads. And you do not drill out and tap the holes because you will drill into the threaded of the hub itself. So I was watching your video.And I tried to take it out with right handed threads which was wrong and it's also a lot bigger bearing retainer totally different from what you showed
Help!!! Got a 72 CL175 and the right rear wheel bearing is seized onto the axle… Need to get the rear tire assy off! I have tried oil, heat and hammering on it to release it. Other than cutting the bearing off do you have any tricks?
Hello, dear friend. In Yamaha Trail WR155, one bearing is placed in the seat, but the original central spacer is 0.5 mm longer and the second bearing is not completely placed in the seat. Does this not cause a problem? Thanks
Using new bearings I've seen them (even Honda bearings) that a cover on each side NOT have any grease inside! I had to use a sharp probe to pop out a cover and grease the bearings, then reinstall the cover. Its something I've seen on several brands of bearings and without checking the bearings for grease they will wear out prematurely.
Does it matter which bearing goes in first on the rear wheel of a cb350? I would think the sproket side/left side goes in first... thanks again for the great post
How does the axle magically disappear when the displayed upright wheel gets laid down on the bench horizontally? If you just want to repack the bearings, is the outside bearing seal removable?
I made my own bearing retainer removal tool.It worked great when I got the new hub.Because I screwed up the other hub thinking it was right-handed threads.Thanks very much
Great Video, thank you for making the video in a pace that a home-builder can follow! I bought a CB 500 that sat for 30 years recently. What process would you suggest to restore the wheels if i want them to be painted black eventually? Is unspoking necessary? Should I replace the bearings before or after painting? would be great to get your expert advice. regards from austria
Your vids have been SUPER helpful and will be placing an order soon for new bearings but any advice on how to punch out my ‘75 550 bearings? There is no lip to hit it out with the spacer in so not sure what to tap
I know Brenden himself recently did a 550 bearing replacement on our shop CB550. We always have tech support calls you can sign up for on our website to get some more in depth tips and help like that.
The larger bearing on the rear wheel (under the retainer) has a spacer in the center of it, use a 5/8 socket and tap that spacer to knock out the bearing on the other side. This will knock out the other bearing and the two spacers then you can co e through from that side now that everything is out of your way and tap out the large bearing last.
You might wanna review and revise the title of your video. I went buying M6 screws and taps like you indicated on your video and it didn’t work for my 550
Yeah they sell a rear wheel bearing kit that says it is for a 550 but it includes the wrong bearing retainer as the 550 uses a retainer with a large outside lip on the top side and different (larger) holes.
Agree there is some crossover but even the bearing removal is different for the 550. And the retainer is left threaded in the 550 that luckily I saw in the manual.
They are!!! Don’t insanely overtorque them following this video like I did…I’ve spent multiple weeks mutilating mine trying to undo what I’ve done. They are indeed left hand threaded.
@@devinpashby1104 that's odd man, I have 77 550 K and the bearing retainer, heck everything on that wheel is standard normal threads,I assume what your talking about are the threads that when you tighten it loosens and when you loosen it tightens, correct?
Hi Bredan. I live in the Uk and have a 1977 CB125J. Getting pasts is a problem! Being a US model my bike has a disc brake, can you tell me what other CB models use the same disc? Are ther any common models that have interchangeable parts with the CB125J/S. All the best from Cullercoats.
If you know the part number you could search on partzilla.com and when it identifies the part it often shows equivalent fitments across other models lower down the page
Great videos - thanks for these (especially during this lockdown). Couple of questions: what do you think about greasing the outside of the new bearing to aid insertion (I see others doing this & it seems a good idea) and I see a fair bit of chatter about repacking grease even in brand new bearings (the argument being that the bearing maker often doesn't add enough grease) - what do you think of that idea.....unnecessary??
Hey Michael, first question: I wouldn't grease the outer races of the bearings you want that bearing locked into the hub if its greased it could spin out of its spot worst case scenario. Freezing and heating has always been all we needed. Second question: Great if you're re-using the old bearings, its hard to say for new bearings it depends on who is making them. Some bearings have to be packed before use like our steering stem bearings but the wheel bearings we sell are already packed and sealed from the factory and good to go!
Thanks for video. I have a question about installation. Does the bearing go in the hub a certain way. I mean does it matter what side of the bearing goes in. I have been reading that the writing should be on the outside of the hub. Thanks
Id say if they feel crunchy and don't turn smoothly that'd be sign number 1. If the wheel moves side to side while tight on the axle that'd be #2. Last we usually change them regardless if the bike is nearing the 20,000-30,000 mile mark. Hope this helps!
Hello I have a problem. I replaced the bearings on a set of old wheels witch i restorated for my scrambler projekt. The Problem on the rear wheel: When i strengh the Nut oft he axle, the brake panel is stuck and the wheel doesn’t turn. I cheked every thing and the bearings are assembled right ( The spacer inside are correct, so the positions oft he bearings are right ) . Seems like the touching surface between Breake Panel and Bearing has a small gap. Anybody solutions? (Sorry form y english)
@@californiamonster8877 ha ha ha ha ,Good god the man has been reading too many fantasy stories,asbestos poisoning from working (on a bike of all things) and something that he will probably do once in his life, if i worked in a brake pad factory yes i would be worried but a bike??
We haven't gotten into the CB350f and CB400f just yet because there are not nearly as many of them out there and also due to how different their drive trains are from the twins. Its on our long list to support so hopefully we'll have them on our radar one of these days but in the meantime a large amount of electrical components are the same across the twins to the CB350f and CB400f but thats about it.
Common Motor Collective thanks for the reply but I guess I’m looking for MY SPECIFIC BIKE WHICH IS A TWIN CM 400. a Hondamatic and OR ANY OF THE OTHER CM 400 models thanks again!!!!!
@@mikeeger7581 Ah I see! Yes they are wildly different bikes then what we currently support unfortunately. Maybe one day but for now we don't currently have one in the shop!
Yes, ideally,if you have the right tool those "peen' marks come right out once you put the torque to the ground with the proper spanner wrench (or preferable a spanner socket) , people always say that when rebuilding carburetors on these bikes the choke plates are impossible to get out cause Honda staked the screws,not so, if you use the proper JIS screwdriver you will do short work of that stake, what happens is people dont know what JIS is to begin with and end up destroying all that hardware (myself included when i started on this project I'm on, Ive learned a few tricks since then,lol) They stake and peen these screws so they wont back out under normal circumstances but that doesn't included a human being with a spanner.lol, but it doesn't hurt to drill the peeen out if you choose to do so, less damage on the bearing retainer.
Hey Frank, I don't have subtitles on the videos but I would be more than happy to walk you through anything if you have questions via email. If you go to common-motor.com and send us an email there I can help you out.
Jesus is the only way to meet God, the true truth, and the true life. If you believe in Jesus, You get eternal life, you get out of judgment, you get life. Trust and welcome Jesus, who came to the light of life to save you. He is God the Creator.
Was für ein Pfuscher! Ab 5.00 wird mir schlecht. Schade wenn man sich kein Werkzeug leisten kann aber bitte nicht so einen Müll bei RUclips verbreiten.
Good news! We now make and sell the proper wheel-bearing retainer removal tools! Check them out if you are performing this repair because they will make your life a lot easier.
Front Disk Brake Wheel Bearing Retainer Tool: www.common-motor.com/honda-front-disc-brake-wheel-bearing-retainer-tool-cb200-cb350g-cb360-cb450-cb550-cb750
Rear Wheel Bearing Retainer Tool: www.common-motor.com/honda-rear-wheel-bearing-retainer-tool-cb350-cb360-cb450-cb550-cb750
Can't recommend these enough, the rear one made it an 8 second job.
Thank you for these great videos, very helpful 🙏 A cautinary tale - I believe the CB550 rear wheel bearing retainer is left hand thread whereas other models are normal thread.
OMFG!!! NEVER would have thought of using a couple of bolts!! Just came right off with nom speacial tools! Sometimes it's the simple things! Thanks VERY much!
I've spent a small fortune on your site. You guys are a lifesaver. Appreciate all the how to videos!
Glad to help! We just want the information out there!
Incredibly helpful. Thank you guys so much for taking the time to make these excellent videos. My only recommended change to the re-install sequence, is to install retaining ring immediately after installing that side's bearing. The reason being, in case you need to gently use a hammer and socket to seat the opposite bearing against the spacer tube, you don't want to risk unseating the first bearing.
Guys...you rock man. Sharing these tips and tricks makes life that much easier!!
Nice vintage drill you got there too.
I have also spent a small fortune on your products. ( money well spent) I have never received such great customer service than with your outfit. Thank you for the quality parts, the great service, extremely great shipping and of coarse your informative videos. - Letter Carrier David-
Always here to help David, the thanks are appreciated.
Glad I spotted this since I'm having to re-spoke my rims anyways, and will be replacing the bearings and seals after the re-spoke is finished. Great tips on the retainer details.
Very cool my friend. Excellent how too. I think my bearings are good to go but may go ahead and replace them.
I was considering an overhaul of the motor but it runs like a top so I think I'll just leave it alone for now.
Thanks again guys. I spent the most part of the last 3 years getting sawed on...ha so your company and these videos have got me back to speed..
You shall never know how much this means to me. Thank you
Thanks, I'm currently restoring an old 74 CB550 and preparing to respoke the wheels, change the bearings etc. This will be helpful.
We live to help.
Thank you for the information and the detailed walk through...first time replacing the bearings on my old '81 Honda and this helped tremendously!!
Thanks for the vid, I'm doing this on a CB350 this week. (Expect an order from you guys to follow once we inspect the drum brakes and cables)
Not sure how hard it would be to update this video or add the info, but the front wheel bearing kit you sell for the Cb360 does NOT actually include the seal for the speedometer drive. At least mine did not come with it. I really need one but unsure of the part.
Another great video, thanks Brenden. I was about to mangle the bearing retainer on my 72 CB500 when I figured I'd better check CMC for a tool, and you guys had a great video to boot. I was only going to repack the original bearings, but you convinced me to replace them. I just ordered the whole kit and kabootle.
appreciate the kind words! reach out to us if you have any trouble with the install!
@@Common-motor Folks: I also got your bearing retainer tool which made the removal a lot easier! Just a note though - on my 72 CB500 the bearing retainer on the rear wheel has a left hand (reverse) thread. Good thing I caught that in the shop manual - otherwise I'd still be heating up the hub and trying to turn the retainer the wrong way! I also serviced the drum brake and installed the new brake shoes I got from you - another great Brenden video made the job a lot easier. I appreciate the little tips that he throws in.
@@donaldcohen4453 Good call-out for the fellow CB500 owners! Glad they helped to get the job done. We're excited to have them instead of the homemade tools we used a few years ago!
Thank you for your time once again providing this instruction, first class as normal
Glad to help!
Need more on the rear wheel such as showing how the spacers go in the wheel. Mine is two piece and I'd like to see a bit more on setting the bearings and how you align the short spacer....which end?
Excellent timing for this one. Great instruction pace as well.
Thank you!
On A550K78, it's left-handed threads. And you do not drill out and tap the holes because you will drill into the threaded of the hub itself. So I was watching your video.And I tried to take it out with right handed threads which was wrong and it's also a lot bigger bearing retainer totally different from what you showed
You're too much. Loved the finale and the music !!!
Help!!! Got a 72 CL175 and the right rear wheel bearing is seized onto the axle… Need to get the rear tire assy off! I have tried oil, heat and hammering on it to release it. Other than cutting the bearing off do you have any tricks?
Great confidence building video!
Glad we can help!
Lol can u imagine getting a bearing stuck inside ur hub and ruining it
Good advice
Hello, dear friend. In Yamaha Trail WR155, one bearing is placed in the seat, but the original central spacer is 0.5 mm longer and the second bearing is not completely placed in the seat. Does this not cause a problem? Thanks
Using new bearings I've seen them (even Honda bearings) that a cover on each side NOT have any grease inside! I had to use a sharp probe to pop out a cover and grease
the bearings, then reinstall the cover. Its something I've seen on several brands of bearings and without checking the bearings for grease they will wear out prematurely.
Its definitely always good to check. We use a brand we trust for having them be pre-greased and sealed and they haven't let us down yet!
Does it matter which bearing goes in first on the rear wheel of a cb350? I would think the sproket side/left side goes in first... thanks again for the great post
Can you do the headers on a 83 cb450 nighthawk I need help on putting mine together and a video would be super helpful
But that CORDED drill!!! Super pro. I have one cause dead battery.
So, is it that were drilling out the rivets on the disc? it just cuts to the wheel with no disc...
Keep em coming guys ...
We'll never stop.
May I ask why to heat up the parts before removing? I'd think that cooling down would be the method since it shrinks the materials.
Don't have those notches on my 75 CB 360t. Spacer fits plumb with axel hole.
How does the axle magically disappear when the displayed upright wheel gets laid down on the bench horizontally?
If you just want to repack the bearings, is the outside bearing seal removable?
I made my own bearing retainer removal tool.It worked great when I got the new hub.Because I screwed up the other hub thinking it was right-handed threads.Thanks very much
Great Video, thank you for making the video in a pace that a home-builder can follow! I bought a CB 500 that sat for 30 years recently. What process would you suggest to restore the wheels if i want them to be painted black eventually? Is unspoking necessary? Should I replace the bearings before or after painting? would be great to get your expert advice. regards from austria
Nike
Just do it
Great video ! Thx as always for your work
Glad to help
Hey, stupid question maybe, however, is the replacement bearing double sided sealed?
you are the best, guys....
Don't make me blush.
Is this similar to the Honda's that have mag wheels?
You look like the geologist from "Big Bang Theory".
Great video. I just starting hearing some squeaking from the bearings.
Nice one!
Your vids have been SUPER helpful and will be placing an order soon for new bearings but any advice on how to punch out my ‘75 550 bearings? There is no lip to hit it out with the spacer in so not sure what to tap
I know Brenden himself recently did a 550 bearing replacement on our shop CB550. We always have tech support calls you can sign up for on our website to get some more in depth tips and help like that.
The larger bearing on the rear wheel (under the retainer) has a spacer in the center of it, use a 5/8 socket and tap that spacer to knock out the bearing on the other side. This will knock out the other bearing and the two spacers then you can co e through from that side now that everything is out of your way and tap out the large bearing last.
You might wanna review and revise the title of your video. I went buying M6 screws and taps like you indicated on your video and it didn’t work for my 550
Yeah they sell a rear wheel bearing kit that says it is for a 550 but it includes the wrong bearing retainer as the 550 uses a retainer with a large outside lip on the top side and different (larger) holes.
Agree there is some crossover but even the bearing removal is different for the 550. And the retainer is left threaded in the 550 that luckily I saw in the manual.
Which bikes have left handed threads for the retainers?
Are the retainer threads left handed on the 77' cb550k ? I'm having a hell of a time with that thing.
They are!!! Don’t insanely overtorque them following this video like I did…I’ve spent multiple weeks mutilating mine trying to undo what I’ve done. They are indeed left hand threaded.
…Not to say this isn’t a fantastic How-To, just would be great to mention the Left Hand threading given the rarity in the automotive realm.
@@devinpashby1104 I've mangled mine to piss already.Didnt know it was lefty.Taking the tire to a moto shop tomorrow and prob get cussed out lol.
@@devinpashby1104 that's odd man, I have 77 550 K and the bearing retainer, heck everything on that wheel is standard normal threads,I assume what your talking about are the threads that when you tighten it loosens and when you loosen it tightens, correct?
Hi Bredan. I live in the Uk and have a 1977 CB125J. Getting pasts is a problem! Being a US model my bike has a disc brake, can you tell me what other CB models use the same disc? Are ther any common models that have interchangeable parts with the CB125J/S. All the best from Cullercoats.
I don't have any CB125J unfortunately I'm not sure. Its quite different from even the 175's if I'm not mistaken.
If you know the part number you could search on partzilla.com and when it identifies the part it often shows equivalent fitments across other models lower down the page
Great videos - thanks for these (especially during this lockdown). Couple of questions: what do you think about greasing the outside of the new bearing to aid insertion (I see others doing this & it seems a good idea) and I see a fair bit of chatter about repacking grease even in brand new bearings (the argument being that the bearing maker often doesn't add enough grease) - what do you think of that idea.....unnecessary??
Hey Michael, first question: I wouldn't grease the outer races of the bearings you want that bearing locked into the hub if its greased it could spin out of its spot worst case scenario. Freezing and heating has always been all we needed. Second question: Great if you're re-using the old bearings, its hard to say for new bearings it depends on who is making them. Some bearings have to be packed before use like our steering stem bearings but the wheel bearings we sell are already packed and sealed from the factory and good to go!
That all makes sense, thanks again.
Thanks for video. I have a question about installation. Does the bearing go in the hub a certain way. I mean does it matter what side of the bearing goes in. I have been reading that the writing should be on the outside of the hub. Thanks
Hey, I have a 77 cv 550k and would like to know how to tell if/when to replace the bearings??
Id say if they feel crunchy and don't turn smoothly that'd be sign number 1. If the wheel moves side to side while tight on the axle that'd be #2. Last we usually change them regardless if the bike is nearing the 20,000-30,000 mile mark. Hope this helps!
Great video 👍
Great vid, thanks!
Very informative nice job😂
Hello
I have a problem. I replaced the bearings on a set of old wheels witch i restorated for my scrambler projekt. The Problem on the rear wheel: When i strengh the Nut oft he axle, the brake panel is stuck and the wheel doesn’t turn. I cheked every thing and the bearings are assembled right ( The spacer inside are correct, so the positions oft he bearings are right ) . Seems like the touching surface between Breake Panel and Bearing has a small gap. Anybody solutions? (Sorry form y english)
How do you guys approach brake dust inside the hub to minimize asbestos exposure?
do it while smoking cigarettes to coat ur lungs with a protective layer or wear a biden mandated mask
@@californiamonster8877 ha ha ha ha ,Good god the man has been reading too many fantasy stories,asbestos poisoning from working (on a bike of all things) and something that he will probably do once in his life, if i worked in a brake pad factory yes i would be worried but a bike??
Why do you guys seem to deal with all or most of the twins but seem to totally leave out the 400 s specifically?
We haven't gotten into the CB350f and CB400f just yet because there are not nearly as many of them out there and also due to how different their drive trains are from the twins. Its on our long list to support so hopefully we'll have them on our radar one of these days but in the meantime a large amount of electrical components are the same across the twins to the CB350f and CB400f but thats about it.
Common Motor Collective thanks for the reply but I guess I’m looking for MY SPECIFIC BIKE WHICH IS A TWIN CM 400. a Hondamatic and OR ANY OF THE OTHER CM 400 models thanks again!!!!!
@@mikeeger7581 Ah I see! Yes they are wildly different bikes then what we currently support unfortunately. Maybe one day but for now we don't currently have one in the shop!
Wouldn't you use a spanner wrench on that?
Yes, ideally,if you have the right tool those "peen' marks come right out once you put the torque to the ground with the proper spanner wrench (or preferable a spanner socket) , people always say that when rebuilding carburetors on these bikes the choke plates are impossible to get out cause Honda staked the screws,not so, if you use the proper JIS screwdriver you will do short work of that stake, what happens is people dont know what JIS is to begin with and end up destroying all that hardware (myself included when i started on this project I'm on, Ive learned a few tricks since then,lol)
They stake and peen these screws so they wont back out under normal circumstances but that doesn't included a human being with a spanner.lol, but it doesn't hurt to drill the peeen out if you choose to do so, less damage on the bearing retainer.
Is this the same for the cb500/4? cheers
Definitely! Just don't destroy your retainers because there are 0 replacements available for 500 and 550 fours.
Hi any chance you could add subtitles thanks as I have recently go deaf thanks Frank
Hey Frank, I don't have subtitles on the videos but I would be more than happy to walk you through anything if you have questions via email. If you go to common-motor.com and send us an email there I can help you out.
Jesus is the only way to meet God, the true truth, and the true life. If you believe in Jesus,
You get eternal life, you get out of judgment, you get life. Trust and welcome Jesus, who came to the light of life to save you.
He is God the Creator.
Was für ein Pfuscher! Ab 5.00 wird mir schlecht. Schade wenn man sich kein Werkzeug leisten kann aber bitte nicht so einen Müll bei RUclips verbreiten.
The manual says improvised tools are acceptable