The one major thing I see that would help prevent cables popping off would be a set of pusher springs instead of those bump stops. The pushers would help keep tension on the cables when the operator starts taking the door down. I do agree with you it definitely needs pinned bottom brackets. Definitely nice to see how others get doors down tho
I've done a few doors like this. Usually 6 pair of vice grips to hold to door. Use the operator emergency chain to get the tension off the springs and get cables free then put cables back onto drums and lower back down using the operator chain to lower back down. Once down rest springs etc. I've also done when there was no operator and the was enough shaft on the side I've stuck a spring cone on the end of the shaft and unwound the springs like that.
Lift door levelish with cumalong. Vice grip bottom, 1 & # 2, clamp vicegrip to cable still on or mostly still on tight cable, put winding cone on outside of drive side out put on MJ operator... release manual chain and lock. Back winde until desired cable wrap on drums are equal with slack. Put both cables on clamp to insure tension. Add tension with winding cone. (MJ specific door full open cable or both cables off) Tools required: anything over 10' lota waa, anything over 12....waaa, 14' to 20' = scissor lift..... easy money. My 2 cents most big deal doors I deal with are 14 tall with high lift at minimum. This approach with caution of your surroundings and 100% control, will save hours.... if not shaking in boots under a 26x20 w 6 foot lift. Waaa
Just a thought, but couldn't you have used c clamps/vise grips under multiple rollers to hold the weight of the door while open, then use the reduction gearing in the operator with the chain hoist to back wind the springs to get enough slack in the cables to reloop them onto the drums? Then you would basically be done?
You can, and I have done it that way, but some situations it’s just not a good idea. Personally, I don’t trust the medium duty operators enough to do that. Like he said, he wasn’t sure how much tension was on the springs at that point, and the hoist is meant to move a door that has its weight equally balanced. Say those springs are fully loaded and you pull the release chain, it may well rip the hoist chain out of your hand, cause there’s nothing holding back the power of those springs as the weight of the door normally would. MH doesn’t have a lot of reduction between the shaft and the motor or hoist chain.
@@TheGarageDoorGeek I agree with you on the spring tension. But if one cable is still tight and properly wound, you know how much tension is on that one cable, then make your judgement off of that. But also, like I said, lock both sides of the door to the track so that when you pull the release on the operator, the door can't move/jerk the chain from your hands. Then use the chain to back wind the springs enough to slip the cable back onto the drum. Then lower the door and do your repair
When the door is fully open like that the springs have like no tension just backwind the springs with winding bars and boom your done you never take the door down like he did it’s a complete waste of time
Had a similar one today. 10x14 (4’ overstocked) dock door with 10’ high lift somehow got the top section pinched between the track and the building, and the H5011 spun the cables off a turn or two. Put vice grips under it, reset the cables and inched up the slack with the op till it caught up. Couldn’t find out why it did that though. Thankfully the customer had a nice big Genie scissor lift, cause my 20’ extension came up short. But I carry the same tools for the same tricks. 2 come-alongs with big and small cable grips. One thing I have different tho is the vice grips. I have 2 different sets of these vice grip C-clamps, one has wide pads, and the other doesn’t. The ones with pads go under rollers (usually for resi) and I use the other ones to pinch the rollers to the track (usually commercial). They’re about $25 a piece, but totally worth it. Otherwise, I’d do it exactly how you did it. Slow and safe.
Lucky dog. I'm sure you where happy to see that scissor lift. I want a picture of your grips with pads your talking about. Where do you buy them? Davedubson@gmail.com
@@affordabledoorgatellc7391 Gimme a few minutes and I’ll run out to the van. I got mine at Lowe’s, in tool world. And yes, I was incredibly happy to see that lift! 🤣
I’m a little late to the comments but I’m a commercial door tech as well and I would have just rehung the cables with the door open yes it’s risky but it eliminates a lot of steps,not telling you how to do your job but I would like to hear your opinion on rehanging cables with the door open
I don't remember ever seeing you work on rolling steel doors. It seems to me that they would be much better suited for those big openings you deal with.
What kind of ratchets do you have there? I have been thinking of buying one for myself and I like the idea of having one that can both pull and loosen safely as yours do.
I get my ratchet or come along as I call it at tractor supply it works pretty good I like the cloth straps don’t poke your fingers like a cable does. Good luck thanks.
I honestly don’t know I think the business charges 120 for residential and 170 for commercial. They do Knock off 20 or 30 bucks once you’re on site. Good luck out there.
Definitely safe but why not clamp the door on both sides and clamp the torsion tube on both side and then that bit of tension left won’t go anywhere. Re-wrap the drums and let her down. Be safe bruh! ✌️
Oh man i have 30 years exp working on doors smalest 5x6 to a 24x28 fvl 10 6" springs on 3 shafts the top shaft was at 82.2" the opener was a 600v 3hp gearhead as well as lots of bifold hanger doors 75'x26' it come to 6350lb befor insluation and 24gsteel clading
Hi guys I have a problem with a GH151L5 gear head opener this one is a brand new one I just replaced it but the old one it was 6 months old the same opener but it's had 1 lemon switch when it was open and two limit switches on the close position But this one it has two limit switches on the open and two and close but every time I press the button the motor shakes just a little bit and then stops I replace the limit switches and I still doing the same thing and it's something with the limits but I don't know what I wonder if you guys came across with anything like that thank you
Even seeing from the floor that oper is going to be running way to fast the top sprcket should have a 24 tooth and #50chain and heaver cable thats the same as RW uses on 10x10 i know its easy to bash others work i would have locked that door where i found it and used the opener with #50 chain and used the chain hoist to back wind springs and reset the cables and flaged the opner with power off tell the sprocket was changed...locket out the opner and then it becomes a crimnal offence to remove my lock out but thats canada provincal laws are diffrent elceware
@@GDOs Good Idea 💡 I should do another video on them. I'm still using the Genie just because little call backs and it's easy to get from are vendor Wayne Dalton. I would also use the Linear but no easy way to get them.
@@GDOs No liftmaster in-stock. I will have to make a video on model. I haven't done a residential install in like a year the guys do them. I'm the commercial guy. We actually just quit doing residential for a little bit. We are 3 months out with commercial work.
![Garage Door Torsion Spring Replacement: How to by [Professional Tech]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5k9qrgZ9rPs/mqdefault.jpg)
![Garage Door Torsion Spring Replacement: How to by [Professional Tech]](/img/tr.png)
Thanks for letting us come along with you ....
That's funny 😄
OK, you about gave me a heart attack when you walked under the door when you had it suspended from the come-a-longs @ the 9:00 mark
The one major thing I see that would help prevent cables popping off would be a set of pusher springs instead of those bump stops. The pushers would help keep tension on the cables when the operator starts taking the door down. I do agree with you it definitely needs pinned bottom brackets. Definitely nice to see how others get doors down tho
thanks dave, been wanting someone to do a video like this for a while just to see how other people do it
glad to be a subscriber
I've done a few doors like this. Usually 6 pair of vice grips to hold to door. Use the operator emergency chain to get the tension off the springs and get cables free then put cables back onto drums and lower back down using the operator chain to lower back down. Once down rest springs etc. I've also done when there was no operator and the was enough shaft on the side I've stuck a spring cone on the end of the shaft and unwound the springs like that.
Lift door levelish with cumalong. Vice grip bottom, 1 & # 2, clamp vicegrip to cable still on or mostly still on tight cable, put winding cone on outside of drive side out put on MJ operator... release manual chain and lock. Back winde until desired cable wrap on drums are equal with slack. Put both cables on clamp to insure tension. Add tension with winding cone. (MJ specific door full open cable or both cables off)
Tools required: anything over 10' lota waa, anything over 12....waaa, 14' to 20' = scissor lift..... easy money.
My 2 cents most big deal doors I deal with are 14 tall with high lift at minimum. This approach with caution of your surroundings and 100% control, will save hours.... if not shaking in boots under a 26x20 w 6 foot lift. Waaa
Just a thought, but couldn't you have used c clamps/vise grips under multiple rollers to hold the weight of the door while open, then use the reduction gearing in the operator with the chain hoist to back wind the springs to get enough slack in the cables to reloop them onto the drums? Then you would basically be done?
You can, and I have done it that way, but some situations it’s just not a good idea. Personally, I don’t trust the medium duty operators enough to do that. Like he said, he wasn’t sure how much tension was on the springs at that point, and the hoist is meant to move a door that has its weight equally balanced. Say those springs are fully loaded and you pull the release chain, it may well rip the hoist chain out of your hand, cause there’s nothing holding back the power of those springs as the weight of the door normally would. MH doesn’t have a lot of reduction between the shaft and the motor or hoist chain.
@@TheGarageDoorGeek I agree with you on the spring tension. But if one cable is still tight and properly wound, you know how much tension is on that one cable, then make your judgement off of that. But also, like I said, lock both sides of the door to the track so that when you pull the release on the operator, the door can't move/jerk the chain from your hands. Then use the chain to back wind the springs enough to slip the cable back onto the drum. Then lower the door and do your repair
That's how I do it to is so much easier
When the door is fully open like that the springs have like no tension just backwind the springs with winding bars and boom your done you never take the door down like he did it’s a complete waste of time
Had a similar one today. 10x14 (4’ overstocked) dock door with 10’ high lift somehow got the top section pinched between the track and the building, and the H5011 spun the cables off a turn or two. Put vice grips under it, reset the cables and inched up the slack with the op till it caught up. Couldn’t find out why it did that though. Thankfully the customer had a nice big Genie scissor lift, cause my 20’ extension came up short. But I carry the same tools for the same tricks. 2 come-alongs with big and small cable grips. One thing I have different tho is the vice grips. I have 2 different sets of these vice grip C-clamps, one has wide pads, and the other doesn’t. The ones with pads go under rollers (usually for resi) and I use the other ones to pinch the rollers to the track (usually commercial). They’re about $25 a piece, but totally worth it. Otherwise, I’d do it exactly how you did it. Slow and safe.
Lucky dog. I'm sure you where happy to see that scissor lift. I want a picture of your grips with pads your talking about. Where do you buy them? Davedubson@gmail.com
@@affordabledoorgatellc7391 Gimme a few minutes and I’ll run out to the van. I got mine at Lowe’s, in tool world. And yes, I was incredibly happy to see that lift! 🤣
@@affordabledoorgatellc7391 Did you get my email?
I’m a little late to the comments but I’m a commercial door tech as well and I would have just rehung the cables with the door open yes it’s risky but it eliminates a lot of steps,not telling you how to do your job but I would like to hear your opinion on rehanging cables with the door open
I don't remember ever seeing you work on rolling steel doors. It seems to me that they would be much better suited for those big openings you deal with.
Roll up doors do have a place and time but I can figure out a Sectional door much faster and easier to Diagnose
What kind of ratchets do you have there? I have been thinking of buying one for myself and I like the idea of having one that can both pull and loosen safely as yours do.
I get my ratchet or come along as I call it at tractor supply it works pretty good I like the cloth straps don’t poke your fingers like a cable does. Good luck thanks.
Hey brother miguel from Florida what or how much did you charge respectfully miguel from Florida
I honestly don’t know I think the business charges 120 for residential and 170 for commercial. They do Knock off 20 or 30 bucks once you’re on site. Good luck out there.
Definitely safe but why not clamp the door on both sides and clamp the torsion tube on both side and then that bit of tension left won’t go anywhere. Re-wrap the drums and let her down. Be safe bruh! ✌️
Not a bad Idea 👍
I use a spring cone and some winding bars to lock that tube in place.
Great video. Thank you so much. What model come along are you using? I am looking to get some soon.
Oh man i have 30 years exp working on doors smalest 5x6 to a 24x28 fvl 10 6" springs on 3 shafts the top shaft was at 82.2" the opener was a 600v 3hp gearhead as well as lots of bifold hanger doors 75'x26' it come to 6350lb befor insluation and 24gsteel clading
Dale Sather, That is pretty awesome! Im still having trouble with the smaller 12x20 doors.
Maybe 2 battery powered winches with a remote?
Now we are talking lol. Tim the tool man Tyler yes...
@@affordabledoorgatellc7391 MORE POWER!!!!! 😂
Shoot, couple of Horror Freight winches and extension cords. 😂
Hi guys I have a problem with a GH151L5 gear head opener this one is a brand new one I just replaced it but the old one it was 6 months old the same opener but it's had 1 lemon switch when it was open and two limit switches on the close position
But this one it has two limit switches on the open and two and close but every time I press the button the motor shakes just a little bit and then stops I replace the limit switches and I still doing the same thing and it's something with the limits but I don't know what I wonder if you guys came across with anything like that thank you
Even seeing from the floor that oper is going to be running way to fast the top sprcket should have a 24 tooth and #50chain and heaver cable thats the same as RW uses on 10x10 i know its easy to bash others work i would have locked that door where i found it and used the opener with #50 chain and used the chain hoist to back wind springs and reset the cables and flaged the opner with power off tell the sprocket was changed...locket out the opner and then it becomes a crimnal offence to remove my lock out but thats canada provincal laws are diffrent elceware
ok, i have a question. if this happened, and it was a trolley opener, would u have taken off the cables and let that opener take it down? or no
I do on residential sometimes but probably not on this situation. If I had 2 guys with me probably but not by myself.
ah ok. also, what resi motors r u installing now? could u do another video of ur stock motors like u did a couple months ago? thanks again dave
@@GDOs Good Idea 💡 I should do another video on them. I'm still using the Genie just because little call backs and it's easy to get from are vendor Wayne Dalton. I would also use the Linear but no easy way to get them.
yea. what models do u use? and do u keep any LM in stock?
@@GDOs No liftmaster in-stock. I will have to make a video on model. I haven't done a residential install in like a year the guys do them. I'm the commercial guy. We actually just quit doing residential for a little bit. We are 3 months out with commercial work.
Please help me
You can always email me at daveadubson@gmail.com
Oh I know the feeling 😅