Happy New Year everyone! Just one comment on this video as I was not clear on this until the end. The Cruise Control Switch portion of the Right Steering Wheel Switch was hard wired and was NOT part of the LIN. This is why nothing else worked except the cruise control switches. ALSO the right steering wheel switch is a module!! And it had a broken ground, so this module was essentially dead. So again, why is a dead module communicating the cruise control switch inputs messages? It WASN"T, the cruise switches are hard wired! I meant to give an overview of that at the end of this video to make it more clear, but this message is good enough. Thanks again for a great 2022. Looking forward to what 2023 has for SD!
@@janico76 depends on the update as I believe the pro is no longer supported by Snap-on. I know my Verus Edge support ends in 2025. What is it updated to? What model year? I'm thinking 2-3K tops
I was having the same issue. I pulled my air bag out and found the exact same yellow wire had broken just like yours. I soldered it together and it all seems great. Thanks for the info
This is one of the first videos I have watched from you, and I'm really impressed with how you add the view of the scanner in the video as you're troubleshooting. It was a really informative video!
Thank you! We always use screen recorders to make everything more clear. It's especially important when you watch from small screens like your phone. Thanks again and happy new year
Justin, be sure to check out his other videos! Paul Danner, AKA Scanner Danner has also written a book about electrical trouble shooting. Highly recommend it!
Great Video Paul and Danner and this is another example of how knowing your basic fundamentals can help you when service data is lacking and the system just doesn't make sense. You did a great job and I love to see these oddball ones and see your thought process going through them. Happy New year to you, Danner and Calib and your families and have an awesome 2023!!!!
Yup exactly what happened to me everything was working took it in for the recall and after 1one week my horn wasn’t working so now I have to fix it myself never trust a dealership
Another great video between you and your brother.What ever happened the important thing is you found the problem and fixed it for the customer.Once again great video Paul and James and can't forget the camera guy Caleb.Hope everyone has a Great and Happy New Year, and a safe one.
Wait….the lighter trick is new to me! I’m surprised that I haven’t seen it before due to my advanced age. Happy New Year to the entire Danner family! 🎉
Excellent video Paul! Seeing how you struggled with that one made me feel a little better. Trying to find information these newer vehicles is getting harder. I feel like at times it takes longer to research the system than it does to diagnose the problem. Thank you for all the knowledge you share with us and best wishes to you and your family!
Wiring diagrams for 60’s era cars were sometimes vague. I remember the wires went to a turn signal switch with no internal working info. 80/90’s were great for internal switch diagrams. Seems they have regressed or don’t have the information. I’m retired and enjoy watching you diagnose these problems while I play with 4 yr old grandson ‼️
thanks for all your videos in 2022 , look forward to your videos for 2023 , thanks for all you and you bro teach the motor industry and Caleb for excellent camera work .. Happy New Year to you all from across the pond
I have the same exact problem in my 2014 ram, this is the first video that has suggested it is not the clock spring. I will have to check to see if the recall extends to my year truck. Awesome video.
Great video as always ScannerDanner! Always appreciate watching your fault-finding methodology and seeing how thorough you are. Regarding the right switch still reading on scan data, I think the key information is that the right hand (cruise control) switch is hard wired to the steering angle sensor, which to me makes it sound like it doesn’t use the same LIN connection as the other switches, and therefore the cruise control inputs would still be visible. Just my thoughts on this tricky little issue 👍
Sorry, just watched the rest of the video and seen that you mentioned this near the end..! I really should watch all the way through before commenting! Great work as always 👍
I couldn't find one for this application, but Mopar sells terminal repair kits. You look up the connector and you can buy a pin with a length of wire already crimped in place. That way you can solder or crimp further from the terminal. It's also nice when the terminal is spread or corroded. Great diag, I feel spoiled with my OEM service data and scan tool. Lots of respect to the independent shop technicians.
i love how when you are talking through these issues you sound more like a computer network technician than an auto mechanic. how things have changed, coming from the OBD 1 and when a lot of these computer controlled systems evolved. i haven't worked professionally in years but i still find the problem solving interesting.
Thanks so much. We film live so I do sort of narrate what's going on in my head and then my son does the editing to make me sound smarter than I am lol
My hands have shaked like that my entire life but I could probably thread a needle first try, I started slow clapping when danner performed a pixel perfect solder dab. Happy new years
Thank you for the video. I've been working on a Jeep JK project which happens to use the same switch. The cruise control switch includes SC1, SC2, and SC ground. The swich circuitry includes a resistor matrix and, by pressing one of the cruise control functions, you are creating different voltage drops on SC1 and SC2. The resulting various combinations of voltage drops are what determines what button you are pressing. This is similar to how the old land line DTMF phones work. Anyway, on a Ram, those three wires (SC1, SC2, and SC ground) connect to the steering column control module (SCCM). The microprocessor in that module senses the different voltage drops and outputs can-bus messages to the ECM. The SCCM may also consolidate all steering wheel-based LIN traffic too but that is not part of my focus. In a Jeep JK, however, all three SC lines go through the clock spring, bypass any (if any exists) SCCM, and terminate to the ECM directly where it detects the matrix and controls the cruise function. I swapped a 5.7 Hemi into my Jeep and am trying to get the cruise control to work like the Ram. I need the can bus messages that the SCCM generates when you press the buttons. If I can connect my switch to a custom microprocessor that is programmed with the can messages the Ram sends, I can get my cruise control to work. It requires a connection to the can bus and software that would display the can message when the button is pressed.
Being in the collision repair industry I’ve changed many air bag harnesses due to the air bag connectors melting from being activated in a collision but haven’t chased a recall yet but I’m sure I’ll get them. Awesome video. It should help teach people to take their time and diagnose before being a parts changer. Just saying lol
Just wanted to say thank you, my 2013 RAM has no functionality on any of the steering column controls, so I watched this and took it all apart was actually pretty easy, the recall work was done I could tell by the rubber covers on the airbag and the zip tie. I checked to make sure the wires weren't broken and they weren't, so I checked for power going into the clock spring and it is getting power in so I'm pretty sure it is the actual clock spring that's malfunctioning. Just wanted to say thank you your video let me know at least where to look.
You can see on your diagram at 6:02, (bottom left)-- that your broken wire was a ground (which was a white and yellow). You said it was yellow; I thought it was a yellow with white stripe-- because you can definitely see white on the video; But I guess it was actually a white wire with just a yellow stripe. There was only such a short piece of the color showing, and it's super easy to mix up white and yellow without blasting it with intense light so you can see it clearly. Cool video
I’m dealing with the same issue. No joy as of yet. Video was very helpful. Try again tomorrow. In my case it’s a 2105 Ram 1500 in a 1978 W-150 Powerwagon. RestoMod. Orange too. Just like Danner’s. Gonna be just as sweet too. If I could get past this damn issue already.
I went blind on this one Paul ... Left me in the dark . Looks like I need to study more can bus .. dang it just when I thought I was gaining knowledge I'm taking one step back ... Back to the drawing board....
Had a 2015 towed in no radio, no crank , more than 1/2 of the under hood fuse box was dead. Info was not great on diag but I found that the ignition module ($900) sends a bus signal to module behind the seat that sends power to 1/2 the under hood fuse box. “Internet” had some hits on broken corroded wire back to the module behind back seat panel near rear window motor. Customer refused more diag time so never got to see the issue.
Interesting problem with this one. They don't give anyone much wire to work with there. Your brother had a great idea there Paul, where taking the wire and soldering it back to the terminal. If you tried to open that crimp and tried crimping the end of the wire in there you will lose your mind. I wish manufacturers would just make cut leads; repairs would be much easier. That way, you can install the new terminal and either solder or use a splice sleeve to connect it. I tried before to crimp a wire on to those metal terminal ends. I didn't lose my mind but came close🤣. I truly believe a robot does that crimp when made at the factory.
Now how many shops would ask a technician to diag this for 1hr? Or how many would change every part that it "could be"? And out of those shops, how many of them would do so because they've not trained the front of house staff on proper procedures or how to properly explain and obtain approval for the testing required? I think we're going to have a mandatory ScannerDanner video lunch on Monday to ensure our advisors have a true understanding of the work even seemingly simple issues may require.
Right, you/shop have to explain to customer what you do for the charges. Basically we do a minimum cursory 1hr inspection , pull codes , check basics , read code info . Then go from there. Had a issue with a 2015 Ram appears the comm line to the module behind the rear cab panel was short/open or module was dead. We got to the point where the 1hr was up and the next step involved removing interior panels , carpet and such. Customer decline more time. He kept telling us to just put an ignition switch in , $900 and un available at the time , he towed it out and have not heard back.
@@user-ud8pj3sq2d exactly! We sell by the test. The technician is given 1.0hr for testing and .5 for general vehicle overview. The tech comes back with a list of the test (and associated time) he needs to ensure we have the proper answers. We then matrix that time to ensure plenty of buffer is present and call the client. We do advise the client "Mr./Mrs. Client, we may find the answer on the first test or the last, I'd much rather underpromise and over deliver so I'm presenting you with a worst-case scenario"
The service info was rough on this one. Incomplete diagrams to literally the wrong wording (key pieces of info too) in various places. In the end we got it, and editing made it look easier, like the removal of that drivers air bag lol but thanks Lucas!
@@ScannerDanner great job brother! At the end of the day, little of what our profession does is easy - but the great people of our trade take it in stride and get the cars fixed! Thanks for being part of this profession and supporting the guys and gals who serve the automotive industry and their clients with a smile every day! You make the automotive world a better place to be!
I stumbled upon this video and that was my problem as well. I had a recall on my 2013 Ram and it involved getting these wires away from the back of the air bag so I assume that black zip tie they put on it stretched the wires out of the connector over time but I can't be sure so I won't point fingers. I just ordered a complete wireing harness and replaced it and no you don't have to pull the steering wheel. The dealer said it was my clockspring and charged me 179.00 for that bit of information I didn't need. Please disconnect the negative battery terminal for a period of time before removing the air bag. I waited 45 minutes to be very safe.
We have on of these trucks in the shop right now. Same scenario clock spring(steering control module) has been misdiagnosed and the U1009 code is still there .We do have cruse control operation but nothing else on the steering wheel works. Unfortunately our fault is not as "easy" as a broken wire. Power, ground and LIN bus are good at the switch module. I put my scope on the LIN and found a weird repeating signal coming from the steering control module. This signal is the same with the switch plugged in and unplugged. I believe the steering module is sending out a health signal to the switch module and getting no response. So I have called the switch module and we will receive it in Tuesday. But piecing this circuit together across multiple wiring diagrams I don't see what else the fault could be so fingers crossed. Great work and Happy New Year🎉🎊🎉🎊
Looking forward to the update! Let me know how it goes. I wish I would have done more with that LIN signal. 1. What did it look like with the bad ground to the right steering switch 2. What did it look like with that connector unplugged (signal from the SCCM only) 3. What did it look like with only the right steering switch/module communicating I'm sorry I didn't do those checks. They would have helped us understand better. Anyway, please update me okay? Happy New Year!
Well, the truck is fixed. The switch was bad. What I thought was a wake signal from the module may have been a red herring. I put the scope back on the Lin wire and plugged the switch in, and didn't notice that much change in the pattern. It didn't do what I suspected it would, but the system came back to life. I would have liked to do some further testing, but of course, by the time the switch was there, the customer was waiting in the office. I guess that's how it goes. Stay safe
@oktiretravis thanks so much for the update! I just had a guy send me some LIN bus captures he was playing with on an Audi where you could actually see differences in the master and slave node messages. Not much, maybe 200mv but it is worth studying for your exact scenario.
I WISH YOU COULD FIND MY PROBLEM ON MY 2010 FORD FUSION 3.0 !!, WHAT'S 10 CODES AND NO POWER STEERING !! . I WATCH YOUR VIDEOS ALL THE TIME YOU DO GOOD WORK!!, YOU KNOW THE STRANGEST THING IS THAT I HAVE THE SAME CODES ALMOST !!, WHAT'S MY FORD FUSION !!, ONE PROBLEM I HAVE IS THAT IT KEEPS SAYING BATTERY STATUS 11.85V ,!!, AND THE BATTERY IS BRAND NEW !!, I'M ABOUT A BRAND NEW BATTERY AND HAD ONE CHARGED UP TO THE MAX . THANK YOU FOR YOUR GOOD VIDEOS!!, WE LEARN A LOT FROM THEM !! . NO ?
@liridoni123 if you have a green card, my school accepts international students. Visit www.rosedaletech.org for more information on that. I am no longer there for the day to day classes but I do some guest speaking from time to time. The other option is to join SD Premium which has all of my classes recorded where I'm teaching page for page through my book and it's only $11 a month for access to over 500 hours of training videos. www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html
@@ScannerDanner thank you for answer my 2 option for my creen cart i don't have online lession i try too regjistre but not accept my email adress l don't now way...
Good morning Paul. I know this is a long shot, but I was hoping to get some insight. I own a 2005 Ford E450 with the 6.8 gas. It has been running slightly rough at idle( about 800-950), but when you put it in drive, she runs really rough, when you give it throttle with your foor on the brake, it doesn't want to rev above 1500 rpm. The codes are po171 and po174. When I'm reading live data, stft is switching between +3 and -4. Ltft is maxed at +26. MAF at idle is .2 lb. When I rev it up to 2500, LTFT goes down to +19, MAF goes up to +9lb. At idle is seems to rev up pretty good. It seems to chug pretty hard under load. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
@user-vu5gv9sb2h not sure if this model uses a variable speed pump or not. Some of them did. The biggest thing is fuel psi should not drop on a wide open throttle snap to redline rpm
Why did I find this video literally the day after i fixed mine, mine was the Grey and Green wires failed.. $278/CAD for a new harness I went to the wrecker and grabbed another for $25. I've had cruise control issues for 4 years Funny thing is the left button, the under buttons, heated steering wheel all go to the right cruise module.
I have a 2010 Dodge Journey with no horn, wipers, headlights or taillights or turn signals but brake lights and cruise still work. I have replaced the clock spring, multifunction switch, TIPM and the entire steering wheel with controls and still nothing.
Start with a scan of all modules on the car. If you do not have a scanner that can do that, you'll need to take it to someone who does. That is the starting point
Maybe you just showed me what's wrong with my buttons. The right side stopped first about 2 years ago and the left worked. Now the left side stopped working. I'll let you know what I find.
Why are you so surprised that the cruise control is on a dedicated communication circuit on the master module where the lefthand slave side is all non-safety related stuff. With all CC signals on just one wire you can never be in an unknown state. Just like the airbag is on a separate circuit. Makes perfect sense from a safety point of view
I dont think of cruise control as safety but if it malfunctions it most certainly is lol guess thats why I was confused as to the purpose. It makes perfect sense man thanks again
Happy New Year Paul hope nothing but good comes toward you guys in 2023. I do have a question for you Paul, Pico2000 for an automotive is it worth buying it or?
@ScannerDanner Autel Maxisys on a 2015 Ford fushion. Is there a way it interferes with some signals when I plug it in while running? A bunch of lights come up on the dash and those codes set but when I plug the tool in with the key off, it works as expected. Someone said plugging in the tool with the modules actives interrupts communications? Thanks
Happy New year 🎄 🎉 ✨️ Sir ScannerDanner My teacher Sir ScannerDanner SUBSTANTIAL Sir ScannerDanner Thank you Sir ScannerDanner Caleb Caleb Thank you SUBSTANTIAL Sir ScannerDanner From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
I had to deal with those same clips on the back, on a 2010 Dodge nitro, and they were very stubborn. I had to increasingly man handle them until nearly breaking things, until I finally got them. Weirdest design I've ever seen; whatever happened to using bolts?
Hi to you and thank you for the video very good job. well I have a mystery problem, I have a code U1009 and a U0156 with the bus line 2 and yet all the buttons work on the steering wheel. I erase the codes but they come back. This is intermittent. I don't know where to look. I have a Maxxicom BT 906 tool and see nothing. What is your analysis tool please? Any idea where this problem could come from? The BCM? My truck , RAM 3500 HD laramie 2017 thank's for your reply Have a nice day sorry for my english, I use a trtanslator
I am having this same exact issue in 2017 RAM 1500. What should I tell my local technician to help him diagnose and find this issue? Check the ground wire at the connector for the LIN going to right switch?
First is to make sure the recall was done, and second is to make sure to tug gently in those wires to the right switch. And pay the guy his diagnostic time! The other thing is, I'm sure he doesn't want to hear "I watched this RUclips video" So be gentle and specific
Did you get this resolved? I have a 2018 3500 and it keeps blowing a fuse, knocking out the horn and all steering wheel controls except for the cruise control, which keeps working even with the blown VIC fuse.
@@KD-kf4zm I had this same issue with my 2019 2500. I ended up putting an automatic resetting circuit breaker in the fuse holder which worked for about a year. Now its hard broke. Did you end up finding a fix for yours?
@@user-pi9ow3pd6d No fix yet. I did discover that it would pop whenever the headlights came on though. I could leave the truck off and then turn the headlights on an it would blow. But then later on that wouldn't pop it anymore. So I'm wondering if it's a wire that sometimes is in position to short out and other times it's not.
Hey listen I'm having the same problem but now mine is got no steering, temperature for out side saying -40 at all time and here I'm alberta it's like plus 4,,the sign for steering wheel with ! Mark shows up, now dash lights are blinking,now I have dinging going all the time, half my fuses don't work under the hood.wtf is going on.
You're going to need to take it to someone you trust. I have a shop directory where you may be able to find a shop in your area that is using my training material for their technicians. scannerdanner.com/find-sd-shops.html
The method Dodge used with the buttons and resistors going to an ADC in the body module is the ghetto way to do it because flaky switches can give the wrong commands to the BCM. Much better to use the key scanner method with the X Y matrix button circuit.
So just to operate the horn, it's: Horn switch > right switches > Lin > SAS > CAN > BCM > horn relay > horn... I mean, how much more ignorant can we make it.. smh. There's no sense in the horn being that complicated; granted, they just piggy backed it onto the other switches that are there-- but no wonder these things fail -- you're giving it a dozen points of failure along the way.
There are some major advantages with these designs too. CAN and LIN bus circuits have changed the game for the better in most circumstances. In fact, it's even simplified many circuits that used to be much more complex. But yeah, I get what your saying.
Paul, back in the day [1985 - 1995] repair of any SRS connectors & or wiring was verboten by the manufacturers, in my case Nissan, Mitsubishi & Honda. Replacement of any harness for wiring or connector damage was the only approved way from both a liability and warranty aspect. Repairs such as this and a subsequent unintended SRS deployment or failure to deploy with a command signal would leave the repair facility in a "liable if and until proven not liable" situation in court. Good luck with a jury on that one. Perhaps the legal system has moved on from the draconian approach? Does anyone with authority know how civil law reads now?
Happy new year to everyone! The right switch cluster uses a resistor ladder and decodes signals by comparators in the receiving module. It is a trick used in european cars for decades already and ,as far as I know, it was invented by Walkman Japanese manufacturers and used for remote control along the audio wire. A cluster of switches with 2 wires only. Of course, this one in the video is a bit different (has 5V ref). Cheers!
Paul (or anyone else who has relevant info for that matter). Are there any open source scope projects worth looking into? These scopes at the end of the day are just closed source computers with probes and close-source software. It's kind of crazy that these scopes would cost more than your typical overpriced apple gadget/computer
It's almost as if the owner taking his truck in for the recall repair, ended up causing this issue, by them man handling it a little too hard when the zip-tied it. lol.. But if he never would have taken it in for the recall, of course it would have chaffed and made the other wires fail anyway.. I really don't like dodge because of stuff like this. I had a 99 Jeep grand Cherokee, and now she has a 2010 Dodge Nitro, and the wiring issues between the two of them have been an endless nightmare; unfortunately. I think they are going a little too small on their wire and it's causing them reliability/ durability/ longevity issues.
Happy New Year everyone! Just one comment on this video as I was not clear on this until the end. The Cruise Control Switch portion of the Right Steering Wheel Switch was hard wired and was NOT part of the LIN. This is why nothing else worked except the cruise control switches. ALSO the right steering wheel switch is a module!! And it had a broken ground, so this module was essentially dead. So again, why is a dead module communicating the cruise control switch inputs messages? It WASN"T, the cruise switches are hard wired! I meant to give an overview of that at the end of this video to make it more clear, but this message is good enough. Thanks again for a great 2022. Looking forward to what 2023 has for SD!
Thanks. And a better new year to you and your family.
Hello Paul,
What do you consider to be a reasonable price on a used Snap-on Verus Pro?
Happy New Year to you and your family. God Bless you all.
@@janico76 depends on the update as I believe the pro is no longer supported by Snap-on. I know my Verus Edge support ends in 2025. What is it updated to? What model year? I'm thinking 2-3K tops
Wish you a happy new year for all of you guys.
@@ScannerDanner 21.2
Thank you Paul for replying back to me. God Bless.
I was having the same issue. I pulled my air bag out and found the exact same yellow wire had broken just like yours. I soldered it together and it all seems great. Thanks for the info
My 2015 is doing this exact thing also. I was going to go the route of replacing the clockspring but I’m going to check that yellow wire first.
This is one of the first videos I have watched from you, and I'm really impressed with how you add the view of the scanner in the video as you're troubleshooting. It was a really informative video!
Thank you! We always use screen recorders to make everything more clear. It's especially important when you watch from small screens like your phone.
Thanks again and happy new year
All his videos are just as good if not better sometimes. If i was a young man starting out id go to his classes. Happy new year everybody, stay safe.
Justin, be sure to check out his other videos! Paul Danner, AKA Scanner Danner has also written a book about electrical trouble shooting. Highly recommend it!
@@jimyep9971 thank you!
@@dans_Learning_Curve thank you!
Great Video Paul and Danner and this is another example of how knowing your basic fundamentals can help you when service data is lacking and the system just doesn't make sense. You did a great job and I love to see these oddball ones and see your thought process going through them. Happy New year to you, Danner and Calib and your families and have an awesome 2023!!!!
Thank you my friend and a Happy New Year to you too
I’ll bet the dealer tech caused this while performing the recall! Great video as always Paul! Happy New Year
I think so too. They had the harness too tight when they installed that zip tie
@@ScannerDanner zip ties, also known as "zap straps", because they're the killer of networking and other low voltage communication cabling. doh!
Yup exactly what happened to me everything was working took it in for the recall and after 1one week my horn wasn’t working so now I have to fix it myself never trust a dealership
Another great video between you and your brother.What ever happened the important thing is you found the problem and fixed it for the customer.Once again great video Paul and James and can't forget the camera guy Caleb.Hope everyone has a Great and Happy New Year, and a safe one.
Wait….the lighter trick is new to me! I’m surprised that I haven’t seen it before due to my advanced age. Happy New Year to the entire Danner family! 🎉
Yeah, me too! 70+, retired fleet manager and my first!
@@Watchyn_Yarwood I raise a glass to you, sir!
I just learned it from one of the really old guys a few weeks ago.
It really helps especially when you don't have room for wire strippers or when you cannot risk losing any more copper.
@@ScannerDanner will keep this in mind!
Great video. We definitely need a 2022 recap video like the 2020 video y’all did.
I thought about that. I'll get Caleb on it
Excellent video Paul! Seeing how you struggled with that one made me feel a little better. Trying to find information these newer vehicles is getting harder. I feel like at times it takes longer to research the system than it does to diagnose the problem. Thank you for all the knowledge you share with us and best wishes to you and your family!
100% man. Service info is lacking from the manufacturer and it seems to have gotten worse
Wiring diagrams for 60’s era cars were sometimes vague. I remember the wires went to a turn signal switch with no internal working info. 80/90’s were great for internal switch diagrams. Seems they have regressed or don’t have the information. I’m retired and enjoy watching you diagnose these problems while I play with 4 yr old grandson ‼️
@dharley189 that's awesome grandpa! I have a 1 year old grand daughter. Best thing ever
thanks for all your videos in 2022 , look forward to your videos for 2023 , thanks for all you and you bro teach the motor industry and Caleb for excellent camera work .. Happy New Year to you all from across the pond
I have the same exact problem in my 2014 ram, this is the first video that has suggested it is not the clock spring. I will have to check to see if the recall extends to my year truck. Awesome video.
Thank you!
Great video as always ScannerDanner! Always appreciate watching your fault-finding methodology and seeing how thorough you are.
Regarding the right switch still reading on scan data, I think the key information is that the right hand (cruise control) switch is hard wired to the steering angle sensor, which to me makes it sound like it doesn’t use the same LIN connection as the other switches, and therefore the cruise control inputs would still be visible.
Just my thoughts on this tricky little issue 👍
Sorry, just watched the rest of the video and seen that you mentioned this near the end..! I really should watch all the way through before commenting!
Great work as always 👍
All good! Thank you so much
I couldn't find one for this application, but Mopar sells terminal repair kits. You look up the connector and you can buy a pin with a length of wire already crimped in place. That way you can solder or crimp further from the terminal. It's also nice when the terminal is spread or corroded.
Great diag, I feel spoiled with my OEM service data and scan tool. Lots of respect to the independent shop technicians.
I really needed factory service info on this one. Thank you!
Thank you are a life saver, had same problem but only with the green wire broken, soldered it back too, saved me a bunch of money.
i love how when you are talking through these issues you sound more like a computer network technician than an auto mechanic. how things have changed, coming from the OBD 1 and when a lot of these computer controlled systems evolved.
i haven't worked professionally in years but i still find the problem solving interesting.
Thanks so much. We film live so I do sort of narrate what's going on in my head and then my son does the editing to make me sound smarter than I am lol
My hands have shaked like that my entire life but I could probably thread a needle first try, I started slow clapping when danner performed a pixel perfect solder dab. Happy new years
Thank you for the video. I've been working on a Jeep JK project which happens to use the same switch. The cruise control switch includes SC1, SC2, and SC ground. The swich circuitry includes a resistor matrix and, by pressing one of the cruise control functions, you are creating different voltage drops on SC1 and SC2. The resulting various combinations of voltage drops are what determines what button you are pressing. This is similar to how the old land line DTMF phones work. Anyway, on a Ram, those three wires (SC1, SC2, and SC ground) connect to the steering column control module (SCCM). The microprocessor in that module senses the different voltage drops and outputs can-bus messages to the ECM. The SCCM may also consolidate all steering wheel-based LIN traffic too but that is not part of my focus. In a Jeep JK, however, all three SC lines go through the clock spring, bypass any (if any exists) SCCM, and terminate to the ECM directly where it detects the matrix and controls the cruise function. I swapped a 5.7 Hemi into my Jeep and am trying to get the cruise control to work like the Ram. I need the can bus messages that the SCCM generates when you press the buttons. If I can connect my switch to a custom microprocessor that is programmed with the can messages the Ram sends, I can get my cruise control to work. It requires a connection to the can bus and software that would display the can message when the button is pressed.
Being in the collision repair industry I’ve changed many air bag harnesses due to the air bag connectors melting from being activated in a collision but haven’t chased a recall yet but I’m sure I’ll get them. Awesome video. It should help teach people to take their time and diagnose before being a parts changer. Just saying lol
Your skills are AMAZING. Thanks for the video. God Bless you and your family.
Happy 2023, Paul & family!!
I was wondering when we would get a Christmas 🎄/ new year video but it's here.....seasons greetings everyone
Nancy was here all year long. Thank you Paul.
You have been! Thank you
Happy New Year to Paul, Caleb, Danner, and clan. Thank you!
Paul (in MA)
Happy New Year Danners'! Thank you all very much. God bless you all. Bless God our father.
Happy New Year to Paul, Caleb and ZZ Danner. 😁 Thank you all for another year of great content on your channel. Blessings and Peace in 2023.
Haha ZZ Danner indeed
Thanx Paul.Happy new year bro!Have an awesome 2023.Looking foreward to your new content next year.
My 2015 Ram is doing the exact same thing. I was going to replace the clockspring but I’m going to check that yellow wire first.
i always learn something from your vids.as long as you have danner there to translate...happy new year.
Haha indeed! Thank you
Just wanted to say thank you, my 2013 RAM has no functionality on any of the steering column controls, so I watched this and took it all apart was actually pretty easy, the recall work was done I could tell by the rubber covers on the airbag and the zip tie. I checked to make sure the wires weren't broken and they weren't, so I checked for power going into the clock spring and it is getting power in so I'm pretty sure it is the actual clock spring that's malfunctioning. Just wanted to say thank you your video let me know at least where to look.
You can see on your diagram at 6:02, (bottom left)-- that your broken wire was a ground (which was a white and yellow). You said it was yellow; I thought it was a yellow with white stripe-- because you can definitely see white on the video; But I guess it was actually a white wire with just a yellow stripe. There was only such a short piece of the color showing, and it's super easy to mix up white and yellow without blasting it with intense light so you can see it clearly. Cool video
Combine that with my eyes that aren't so good up close anymore. But thanks for that confirmation! Appreciate it a lot! Happy new year
All the best for 2023 everyone stay healthy and send us greetings from germany.
Thank you .
I have been trying to figure this out for awhile.
Happy New Year to the Danner Family. Hope your Christmas was great. Having coffee and learning from the best!
Thanks for share. I hope that you and your family have a great 2023
Bless AWESOME 👏 video. Credit the cameraman, also. Happy New Year to the Danners. Thanks 😊
Great video as always Paul
I’m dealing with the same issue. No joy as of yet. Video was very helpful. Try again tomorrow. In my case it’s a 2105 Ram 1500 in a 1978 W-150 Powerwagon. RestoMod. Orange too. Just like Danner’s. Gonna be just as sweet too. If I could get past this damn issue already.
Nice!
Experience diagnosis master. Happy new year
HAPPY NEW YEAR TO THE DANNER GANG!!!!! BEST OF LUCK
I went blind on this one Paul ... Left me in the dark . Looks like I need to study more can bus .. dang it just when I thought I was gaining knowledge I'm taking one step back ... Back to the drawing board....
Did you read my pinned comment? Do that first then let's talk okay? I'd be more than happy to answer your questions
@@ScannerDanner thanks Paul
@@rockynix7731 did that help clear things up a bit?
@@ScannerDanner most definitely thanks
Big respect for the Idee how to open the airbag. 😁
Gotta love the combination of brainstorming and a genuine Russian Repair.
Haha thanks man
PHAD! Ivan is getting around!
Had a 2015 towed in no radio, no crank , more than 1/2 of the under hood fuse box was dead.
Info was not great on diag but I found that the ignition module ($900) sends a bus signal to module behind the seat that sends power to 1/2 the under hood fuse box.
“Internet” had some hits on broken corroded wire back to the module behind back seat panel near rear window motor. Customer refused more diag time so never got to see the issue.
I have the same problem. What are you do it?
?
Interesting problem with this one. They don't give anyone much wire to work with there. Your brother had a great idea there Paul, where taking the wire and soldering it back to the terminal. If you tried to open that crimp and tried crimping the end of the wire in there you will lose your mind. I wish manufacturers would just make cut leads; repairs would be much easier. That way, you can install the new terminal and either solder or use a splice sleeve to connect it. I tried before to crimp a wire on to those metal terminal ends. I didn't lose my mind but came close🤣. I truly believe a robot does that crimp when made at the factory.
Now how many shops would ask a technician to diag this for 1hr?
Or how many would change every part that it "could be"?
And out of those shops, how many of them would do so because they've not trained the front of house staff on proper procedures or how to properly explain and obtain approval for the testing required?
I think we're going to have a mandatory ScannerDanner video lunch on Monday to ensure our advisors have a true understanding of the work even seemingly simple issues may require.
Right, you/shop have to explain to customer what you do for the charges.
Basically we do a minimum cursory 1hr inspection , pull codes , check basics , read code info . Then go from there.
Had a issue with a 2015 Ram appears the comm line to the module behind the rear cab panel was short/open or module was dead.
We got to the point where the 1hr was up and the next step involved removing interior panels , carpet and such.
Customer decline more time. He kept telling us to just put an ignition switch in , $900 and un available at the time , he towed it out and have not heard back.
@@user-ud8pj3sq2d exactly! We sell by the test. The technician is given 1.0hr for testing and .5 for general vehicle overview.
The tech comes back with a list of the test (and associated time) he needs to ensure we have the proper answers.
We then matrix that time to ensure plenty of buffer is present and call the client.
We do advise the client "Mr./Mrs. Client, we may find the answer on the first test or the last, I'd much rather underpromise and over deliver so I'm presenting you with a worst-case scenario"
This was the right way to handle it!
The service info was rough on this one. Incomplete diagrams to literally the wrong wording (key pieces of info too) in various places. In the end we got it, and editing made it look easier, like the removal of that drivers air bag lol but thanks Lucas!
@@ScannerDanner great job brother! At the end of the day, little of what our profession does is easy - but the great people of our trade take it in stride and get the cars fixed!
Thanks for being part of this profession and supporting the guys and gals who serve the automotive industry and their clients with a smile every day!
You make the automotive world a better place to be!
Happy new year Danner!
I stumbled upon this video and that was my problem as well. I had a recall on my 2013 Ram and it involved getting these wires away from the back of the air bag so I assume that black zip tie they put on it stretched the wires out of the connector over time but I can't be sure so I won't point fingers. I just ordered a complete wireing harness and replaced it and no you don't have to pull the steering wheel. The dealer said it was my clockspring and charged me 179.00 for that bit of information I didn't need. Please disconnect the negative battery terminal for a period of time before removing the air bag. I waited 45 minutes to be very safe.
We have on of these trucks in the shop right now. Same scenario clock spring(steering control module) has been misdiagnosed and the U1009 code is still there .We do have cruse control operation but nothing else on the steering wheel works. Unfortunately our fault is not as "easy" as a broken wire. Power, ground and LIN bus are good at the switch module. I put my scope on the LIN and found a weird repeating signal coming from the steering control module. This signal is the same with the switch plugged in and unplugged. I believe the steering module is sending out a health signal to the switch module and getting no response. So I have called the switch module and we will receive it in Tuesday. But piecing this circuit together across multiple wiring diagrams I don't see what else the fault could be so fingers crossed. Great work and Happy New Year🎉🎊🎉🎊
Looking forward to the update! Let me know how it goes. I wish I would have done more with that LIN signal.
1. What did it look like with the bad ground to the right steering switch
2. What did it look like with that connector unplugged (signal from the SCCM only)
3. What did it look like with only the right steering switch/module communicating
I'm sorry I didn't do those checks. They would have helped us understand better.
Anyway, please update me okay? Happy New Year!
Well, the truck is fixed. The switch was bad. What I thought was a wake signal from the module may have been a red herring. I put the scope back on the Lin wire and plugged the switch in, and didn't notice that much change in the pattern. It didn't do what I suspected it would, but the system came back to life. I would have liked to do some further testing, but of course, by the time the switch was there, the customer was waiting in the office. I guess that's how it goes. Stay safe
@oktiretravis thanks so much for the update! I just had a guy send me some LIN bus captures he was playing with on an Audi where you could actually see differences in the master and slave node messages. Not much, maybe 200mv but it is worth studying for your exact scenario.
As soon as I saw "inadvertent airbag deployment" I knew we were going to get the airbag clip. 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
🤣 forever ♥️
I WISH YOU COULD FIND MY PROBLEM ON MY 2010 FORD FUSION 3.0 !!, WHAT'S 10 CODES AND NO POWER STEERING !! .
I WATCH YOUR VIDEOS ALL THE TIME YOU DO GOOD WORK!!, YOU KNOW THE STRANGEST THING IS THAT I HAVE THE SAME CODES ALMOST !!, WHAT'S MY FORD FUSION !!, ONE PROBLEM I HAVE IS THAT IT KEEPS SAYING BATTERY STATUS 11.85V ,!!, AND THE BATTERY IS BRAND NEW !!, I'M ABOUT A BRAND NEW BATTERY AND HAD ONE CHARGED UP TO THE MAX . THANK YOU FOR YOUR GOOD VIDEOS!!, WE LEARN A LOT FROM THEM !! . NO ?
Danner doesn't get enough love - He's one fart smeller. Happy holidays guys - all the best for you and yours
He really is that smart man. He was always ahead of me with anything intellectual growing up
What can I say, your are the best.
Happy new year everyone and you and thank you for posting video off yours grate job .hopefully many. Years with you and your Chanell bye from Kosovo .
Kosova? Awesome! Thank you
It's possible to come on your country learn from you . I need to learn many thinks .
@liridoni123 if you have a green card, my school accepts international students. Visit www.rosedaletech.org for more information on that. I am no longer there for the day to day classes but I do some guest speaking from time to time.
The other option is to join SD Premium which has all of my classes recorded where I'm teaching page for page through my book and it's only $11 a month for access to over 500 hours of training videos. www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html
@@ScannerDanner2 good option for my creen card i don't have but this online is good l try to register but not accept my email adress
@@ScannerDanner thank you for answer my 2 option for my creen cart i don't have online lession i try too regjistre but not accept my email adress l don't now way...
happy new year to you paul and your family AND caleb and his family best wishes for all in the coming year
Happy new year danner
Well, that's clear as mud. Shaky hands? I couldn't get the soldering iron with in 6 inches of that wire.
I'm sorry. Read my pinned comment. It will help
Where’s your shop located I have the same problem I need help
Happy new year you and your family
What scanner did you use for this ❤
Snap-On Verus Edge
Thanks. I had the same error code and the RAM Forum was all crickets. No Replies... Thanks. I will do into the column in the morning.
My truck just went into the shop today for this issue. Hopefully it’s covered under my warranty
Good morning Paul. I know this is a long shot, but I was hoping to get some insight. I own a 2005 Ford E450 with the 6.8 gas. It has been running slightly rough at idle( about 800-950), but when you put it in drive, she runs really rough, when you give it throttle with your foor on the brake, it doesn't want to rev above 1500 rpm. The codes are po171 and po174. When I'm reading live data, stft is switching between +3 and -4. Ltft is maxed at +26. MAF at idle is .2 lb. When I rev it up to 2500, LTFT goes down to +19, MAF goes up to +9lb. At idle is seems to rev up pretty good. It seems to chug pretty hard under load. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
Unplug the MAF and then see how it runs. If it still runs bad, next step is a fuel pressure measurement
@@ScannerDannerI think running fuel pressure is around 60 psi, any lower there is a restriction in the line or restriction in the pump possibly?
@user-vu5gv9sb2h not sure if this model uses a variable speed pump or not. Some of them did. The biggest thing is fuel psi should not drop on a wide open throttle snap to redline rpm
Why did I find this video literally the day after i fixed mine, mine was the Grey and Green wires failed.. $278/CAD for a new harness I went to the wrecker and grabbed another for $25. I've had cruise control issues for 4 years
Funny thing is the left button, the under buttons, heated steering wheel all go to the right cruise module.
I learned a lot on this one
Happy new year thanks
Would you have a electronic stability control message if this happened
I don't think so, but I'm not sure
Hi Danner do you prefer the versus edge over the Alibaba scanners?
I dont use any Alibaba scanners
What's an alibaba scanner?
I have a 2010 Dodge Journey with no horn, wipers, headlights or taillights or turn signals but brake lights and cruise still work. I have replaced the clock spring, multifunction switch, TIPM and the entire steering wheel with controls and still nothing.
Start with a scan of all modules on the car. If you do not have a scanner that can do that, you'll need to take it to someone who does. That is the starting point
Maybe you just showed me what's wrong with my buttons. The right side stopped first about 2 years ago and the left worked. Now the left side stopped working. I'll let you know what I find.
Does the cruise control light turns on now on the cluster
everything worked when we were done
Mines not working and I pulled my air bag already not I guess I got to pull it again to check thos wires
lol, once bitten twice shy at them airbags now. 🤣
never managed to explode any yet, but I'm sure my turn is coming!
it was my own stupid fault on that one lol
Why are you so surprised that the cruise control is on a dedicated communication circuit on the master module where the lefthand slave side is all non-safety related stuff. With all CC signals on just one wire you can never be in an unknown state. Just like the airbag is on a separate circuit. Makes perfect sense from a safety point of view
Perfect! Thank you
I dont think of cruise control as safety but if it malfunctions it most certainly is lol guess thats why I was confused as to the purpose. It makes perfect sense man thanks again
Happy New Year Paul hope nothing but good comes toward you guys in 2023. I do have a question for you Paul, Pico2000 for an automotive is it worth buying it or?
Not from what I've heard.
I feel like Caleb missed opportunities to insert the airbags blowing clip, many many times.
In some vehicles, if I have the engine running. Why do communication DTCs set if I plug in a scan tool? Still learning
Try another scan tool. What are you using and on what car?
@ScannerDanner Autel Maxisys on a 2015 Ford fushion. Is there a way it interferes with some signals when I plug it in while running? A bunch of lights come up on the dash and those codes set but when I plug the tool in with the key off, it works as expected. Someone said plugging in the tool with the modules actives interrupts communications? Thanks
@@chasyho some of the newer systems will give you problems without the correct update or cable even depending on your scan tool
@@ScannerDanner thanks for all the knowledge
Happy New year 🎄 🎉 ✨️ Sir ScannerDanner
My teacher Sir ScannerDanner
SUBSTANTIAL Sir ScannerDanner
Thank you Sir ScannerDanner Caleb
Caleb Thank you
SUBSTANTIAL Sir ScannerDanner
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
I think your access to Sure Track is still expired.
Health and happiness in the New Year to you and your family.
I had to deal with those same clips on the back, on a 2010 Dodge nitro, and they were very stubborn. I had to increasingly man handle them until nearly breaking things, until I finally got them. Weirdest design I've ever seen; whatever happened to using bolts?
Agree! We cut out the struggle. It was probably 20 minutes of us swearing lol
made to be assembled fast and whole vehicle thrown away when something breaks...
Happy New Year
Hi to you and thank you for the video very good job.
well I have a mystery problem, I have a code U1009 and a U0156 with the bus line 2 and yet all the buttons work on the steering wheel. I erase the codes but they come back. This is intermittent. I don't know where to look. I have a Maxxicom BT 906 tool and see nothing. What is your analysis tool please?
Any idea where this problem could come from? The BCM?
My truck , RAM 3500 HD laramie 2017
thank's for your reply
Have a nice day
sorry for my english, I use a trtanslator
You will need to follow a flow chart for those u-codes and study your network diagrams.
eautorepair.adtrk.biz/?a=10817&c=24&p=r&s1=
I am having this same exact issue in 2017 RAM 1500. What should I tell my local technician to help him diagnose and find this issue? Check the ground wire at the connector for the LIN going to right switch?
First is to make sure the recall was done, and second is to make sure to tug gently in those wires to the right switch.
And pay the guy his diagnostic time!
The other thing is, I'm sure he doesn't want to hear "I watched this RUclips video"
So be gentle and specific
Did you get this resolved? I have a 2018 3500 and it keeps blowing a fuse, knocking out the horn and all steering wheel controls except for the cruise control, which keeps working even with the blown VIC fuse.
@@KD-kf4zm I had this same issue with my 2019 2500. I ended up putting an automatic resetting circuit breaker in the fuse holder which worked for about a year. Now its hard broke. Did you end up finding a fix for yours?
@@user-pi9ow3pd6d No fix yet. I did discover that it would pop whenever the headlights came on though. I could leave the truck off and then turn the headlights on an it would blow. But then later on that wouldn't pop it anymore. So I'm wondering if it's a wire that sometimes is in position to short out and other times it's not.
The total failure allowed me to finally trouble shoot. Ended up being the wiring harness in the steering wheel
Hey listen I'm having the same problem but now mine is got no steering, temperature for out side saying -40 at all time and here I'm alberta it's like plus 4,,the sign for steering wheel with ! Mark shows up, now dash lights are blinking,now I have dinging going all the time, half my fuses don't work under the hood.wtf is going on.
You're going to need to take it to someone you trust. I have a shop directory where you may be able to find a shop in your area that is using my training material for their technicians.
scannerdanner.com/find-sd-shops.html
Great video!
Happy new year front Panamá
Where in Panama? I've been there before and will be coming back. I'll bring you a book when I do. The Word of Life camp, my friend is the director
@@ScannerDanner i live in Panamá city You are well come
The method Dodge used with the buttons and resistors going to an ADC in the body module is the ghetto way to do it because flaky switches can give the wrong commands to the BCM. Much better to use the key scanner method with the X Y matrix button circuit.
This isn't an uncommon design. I've seen it all over the car in various applications.
It is a safety issue when the truck downshifts on its own or cruise control comes on randomly
Thats what is wrong with my dodge ram, the arrow buttons and horn doesn't work!!
So just to operate the horn, it's: Horn switch > right switches > Lin > SAS > CAN > BCM > horn relay > horn... I mean, how much more ignorant can we make it.. smh. There's no sense in the horn being that complicated; granted, they just piggy backed it onto the other switches that are there-- but no wonder these things fail -- you're giving it a dozen points of failure along the way.
There are some major advantages with these designs too. CAN and LIN bus circuits have changed the game for the better in most circumstances. In fact, it's even simplified many circuits that used to be much more complex. But yeah, I get what your saying.
Paul, back in the day [1985 - 1995] repair of any SRS connectors & or wiring was verboten by the manufacturers, in my case Nissan, Mitsubishi & Honda. Replacement of any harness for wiring or connector damage was the only approved way from both a liability and warranty aspect. Repairs such as this and a subsequent unintended SRS deployment or failure to deploy with a command signal would leave the repair facility in a "liable if and until proven not liable" situation in court. Good luck with a jury on that one. Perhaps the legal system has moved on from the draconian approach? Does anyone with authority know how civil law reads now?
Yeah, I'm not sure? I've never attempted to repair any type of wiring on an airbag system
@@ScannerDanner Maybe ask around at some of the area shops [or an attorney :) ]and let us know if you find out further. Thanks.
@@parochial2356 I would follow exactly the manufacturer recommended procedures for air bag systems. Then I don't need to worry about it.
Thank 😊 🙏 you
Chrysler working with miller and snap on tools to make it impossible to work on unless you buy the tools 😕
Happy new year to everyone!
The right switch cluster uses a resistor ladder and decodes signals by comparators in the receiving module. It is a trick used in european cars for decades already and ,as far as I know, it was invented by Walkman Japanese manufacturers and used for remote control along the audio wire. A cluster of switches with 2 wires only. Of course, this one in the video is a bit different (has 5V ref).
Cheers!
Paul (or anyone else who has relevant info for that matter). Are there any open source scope projects worth looking into? These scopes at the end of the day are just closed source computers with probes and close-source software. It's kind of crazy that these scopes would cost more than your typical overpriced apple gadget/computer
The recall is pulling the wires out .. the pins are not soldered on … this should be a new recall
Good job guys….
Wish you was near me have 2011 ford edge fuse 29. Killed battery after 4 days not used. Done paid one person who replaced cluster,
We did one of these recently. I have a video on it but I'm not sure if it was on my website or here on YT
Hello, Engineer, I am Sati Omar from Sudan. I am following you. I want you to help me learn car electricity.
Welcome!
It's almost as if the owner taking his truck in for the recall repair, ended up causing this issue, by them man handling it a little too hard when the zip-tied it. lol.. But if he never would have taken it in for the recall, of course it would have chaffed and made the other wires fail anyway.. I really don't like dodge because of stuff like this. I had a 99 Jeep grand Cherokee, and now she has a 2010 Dodge Nitro, and the wiring issues between the two of them have been an endless nightmare; unfortunately. I think they are going a little too small on their wire and it's causing them reliability/ durability/ longevity issues.
I agree, this ziptie was installed with that harness being squeezed too tight and put strain on that connection