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@@AlfsMustangGarage I didn't figure it out so much as it hasn't done it again. I used a pry bar to rotate bake into place, made sure that the retainer was tight and it has not rotated again. I am hesitant to drive it far as I don't know what caused it to rotate and I am fearful that it will do it again.
@@AlfsMustangGarage I am also finding when I brake hard the car pulls hard to the drivers side. I assume that I did something wrong when rebuilding the brakes or the suspension but have no idea how to troubleshoot.
As far as the pulling goes, I haven't done a video on this yet but drum brakes are really touchy. They have to be adjusted perfectly or you'll get the brake pull. It's something you have to get a feel for but with both wheels in the air, they should both have a slight amount of drag from the brake shoes and should feel the same side to side. If It's pulling to one side hard, that side typically needs to be loosened or the other side needs to be tightened or both. It's one of those adjust and test drive till it's right kind of a thing.
@@AlfsMustangGarage sounds like all you may have needed was the cylinder head rebuilt. I have a 64 falcon 200 inline six im ready to do compression and leak down tester because it has very little power. Im wondering if I could find a larger "Log" for it while I have the head off. Any suggestions ?? I'll also check to see if I have a "lip on the piston bore, and if so I guess the whole engine will come out and go .030 over at which point it becomes a total engine overhaul. I'd like to get up to the 200 horse range. Again..any suggestions while I'm this deep into it. And no...not looking to swap out for the cookie cutter 302.... Thanks, John C.
Ya that particular engine had was burning oil and had worn rings. Compression was low until we added oil to the cylinder. I would check out for for fordsix.com for resources. I get lots of information on there. I'm not sure if they have a classified section though. For hunting down a large log, sometimes Facebook groups have been quite resourceful.
Alex, ? for you...I had my trans rebuilt and it has to go back in. Is it best to put it back in before the in line 6 engine or attach to engine to put back in? Thanks for your feedback! Great video for my next step!
Personally, if the engine is out, I would put the two together and then install both at the same time. You'll really want to make sure you're hooked up really well on your lifting chain or however you're doing it. But it does make a lot less work when you can bolt them together outside of the car and then install them together.
Lol you happened to catch me while I was on the computer. Ya it's more of the angle because that trans on there just adds a little more tilt. Which you want tilt, just not too much tilt. Anyway, hope that helps!
I noticed on ur 66 mustang you dint show u had a bell housing plate!! So it doesnt need it??? I have a 65 200ci and wondering if you can tell me if I need one??
You skipped right over getting the torque converter studs thru the flexplate... which is exactly what me and my son are having problems with!! Which is first... 1) Bell housing studs or 2) studs and flexplate???
I'm about to pull the 200 inline six out of my Falcon. It's a 3 on the tree manual. Is there som6i should be aware of when separating the engine from the transmission. I'd hate to have a bunch of parts fall out of the tranny and not know how to put it all back together. Any pointers on doing this ??
On a standard transmission, you shouldn't have anything to worry about in terms of "parts falling out" The clutch kits are attached to the engine's crankshaft. So you basically just have to remove the bell housing bolts, starter motor, and she should seperate. Of course after you do everything else to get the engine ready to lift.
@@AlfsMustangGarage I sent out the head to be rebuilt so a lot of the items are already off, minus the starter & generator. Interesting question. I wanted to put 302 valve springs in the head but I've read you need 302 & 200 retainers. Apparently you put the 200 retainers inside the 302 retainers and you're able to lock the springs in that way. Have you ever come across this issue or should I just stick with the 200 valve springs ?
I've never come across that issue but I always send my heads out to be taken care of by someone more knowledgable and qualified than me. If you're doing a stock rebuild, I would assume keep it stock but perhaps a good question for your machine shop.
Is there any torque specifications for the bellhousing to engine bolts and torque converter nuts. Also, will I need an exhaust gasket if my head manifold and exhaust manifold were milled. I know that from the Factory Ford didn't use exhaust gaskets. Finally, on the radiator, can I use any type of anti-freeze or a certain type. Great Video :)
So the bell housing torque specs are 23-33 ft/lbs. They aren't really torque sensitive parts like cylinder heads so I typically just tighten by feel. And yes you're correct about the exhaust manifold gasket. I used one because my manifold was pitted but from the factory, no gasket.
I forgot to answer your other questions. So if your exhaust manifold was milled and the cylinder head surface that it bolts to is also nice and true, you should not need gaskets. As far as coolant goes, just the standard green stuff is just fine. These old engines don't need anything fancy.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Just finished installing the C4 onto the engine. It was a difficult task. I used a scissor Jack for the trans. Difficult to align the flex plate. The 3 bolts went in, but the forth upper bellhousing bolt wouldn't rotate in. Maybe apply some rotating force to the bolt? Does the flex plate need to go all the way in into the torque converter or should there be a gap. Mine has a gap, but I haven't installed the nuts yet. Don't know if the torque converter middle bushing aligned with the flexplate, but the 4 converter bolts went into the flex plate. I only installed the 3 bolts that went into the bellhousing and installed the trans support bracket.
I'm having a hard time visualizing what is happening. I'm not sure if I have ever encountered getting all the torque converter studs in and 3 of the 4 bell housing bolts. In my experiences, if you have to force something, there is something wrong. Is the torque converter completely seated into the trans? Are the engine dowel pins in and in the correct locations? Did this engine used to have a standard trans on it and the pilot bearing wasn't removed? I'm just trying to think of all the possible things that could put this on a bind.
@@AlfsMustangGarage There is a gap between the torque converter and the flex plate. Maybe once I install the 4 nuts the flex plate will seat better into the converter. The 4 converter bolts are in the 4 bolt holes. A few weeks ago I put some trans assembly grease onto the converter middle shaft and maybe that grease is preventing the flex plate from seating.
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Great videos. To the point and No nonsense
Thank you!
Hey Alex, great to see you and the video, appreciate the quality of instruction and detail.
Thanks Scott! Any updates on your car? Did you figure out that distributor?
@@AlfsMustangGarage I didn't figure it out so much as it hasn't done it again. I used a pry bar to rotate bake into place, made sure that the retainer was tight and it has not rotated again. I am hesitant to drive it far as I don't know what caused it to rotate and I am fearful that it will do it again.
@@AlfsMustangGarage I am also finding when I brake hard the car pulls hard to the drivers side. I assume that I did something wrong when rebuilding the brakes or the suspension but have no idea how to troubleshoot.
That's really strange. So does it turn freely when the clamp is loose? It shouldn't need a prybar to move.
As far as the pulling goes, I haven't done a video on this yet but drum brakes are really touchy. They have to be adjusted perfectly or you'll get the brake pull. It's something you have to get a feel for but with both wheels in the air, they should both have a slight amount of drag from the brake shoes and should feel the same side to side. If It's pulling to one side hard, that side typically needs to be loosened or the other side needs to be tightened or both. It's one of those adjust and test drive till it's right kind of a thing.
You guys did amazing 🙏👏🏿❤️🌹🇺🇸🔥🙌🏾
Thank you!
Yes!! It's complete. Thank you for the video and btw... love the gloves. 😆
Finally got this edited. Only filmed it last summer.
Thank you.
You're welcome
Another good video. What was wrong with the original engine?
Worn rings, worn valves, worn everything. Ran but smoked and misfired like crazy. Found a decent price on one from someone who did a V8 swap.
@@AlfsMustangGarage sounds like all you may have needed was the cylinder head rebuilt. I have a 64 falcon 200 inline six im ready to do compression and leak down tester because it has very little power. Im wondering if I could find a larger "Log" for it while I have the head off. Any suggestions ?? I'll also check to see if I have a "lip on the piston bore, and if so I guess the whole engine will come out and go .030 over at which point it becomes a total engine overhaul. I'd like to get up to the 200 horse range. Again..any suggestions while I'm this deep into it. And no...not looking to swap out for the cookie cutter 302....
Thanks,
John C.
Ya that particular engine had was burning oil and had worn rings. Compression was low until we added oil to the cylinder. I would check out for for fordsix.com for resources. I get lots of information on there. I'm not sure if they have a classified section though. For hunting down a large log, sometimes Facebook groups have been quite resourceful.
Alex, ? for you...I had my trans rebuilt and it has to go back in. Is it best to put it back in before the in line 6 engine or attach to engine to put back in? Thanks for your feedback! Great video for my next step!
Personally, if the engine is out, I would put the two together and then install both at the same time. You'll really want to make sure you're hooked up really well on your lifting chain or however you're doing it. But it does make a lot less work when you can bolt them together outside of the car and then install them together.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Excellent! Thank you...that was quick! I'll make sure the chain is tight.
Lol you happened to catch me while I was on the computer. Ya it's more of the angle because that trans on there just adds a little more tilt. Which you want tilt, just not too much tilt. Anyway, hope that helps!
I noticed on ur 66 mustang you dint show u had a bell housing plate!! So it doesnt need it??? I have a 65 200ci and wondering if you can tell me if I need one??
You skipped right over getting the torque converter studs thru the flexplate... which is exactly what me and my son are having problems with!! Which is first... 1) Bell housing studs or 2) studs and flexplate???
They should go together both at the same time as long as your torque converter is in all the way.
Do you have a video installing a original distributor on a inline 6 200
I'm afraid I do not. I should make one.
I'm about to pull the 200 inline six out of my Falcon. It's a 3 on the tree manual. Is there som6i should be aware of when separating the engine from the transmission. I'd hate to have a bunch of parts fall out of the tranny and not know how to put it all back together. Any pointers on doing this ??
On a standard transmission, you shouldn't have anything to worry about in terms of "parts falling out" The clutch kits are attached to the engine's crankshaft. So you basically just have to remove the bell housing bolts, starter motor, and she should seperate. Of course after you do everything else to get the engine ready to lift.
@@AlfsMustangGarage
I sent out the head to be rebuilt so a lot of the items are already off, minus the starter & generator.
Interesting question. I wanted to put 302 valve springs in the head but I've read you need 302 & 200 retainers. Apparently you put the 200 retainers inside the 302 retainers and you're able to lock the springs in that way. Have you ever come across this issue or should I just stick with the 200 valve springs ?
I've never come across that issue but I always send my heads out to be taken care of by someone more knowledgable and qualified than me. If you're doing a stock rebuild, I would assume keep it stock but perhaps a good question for your machine shop.
Is there any torque specifications for the bellhousing to engine bolts and torque converter nuts. Also, will I need an exhaust gasket if my head manifold and exhaust manifold were milled. I know that from the Factory Ford didn't use exhaust gaskets. Finally, on the radiator, can I use any type of anti-freeze or a certain type. Great Video :)
So the bell housing torque specs are 23-33 ft/lbs. They aren't really torque sensitive parts like cylinder heads so I typically just tighten by feel. And yes you're correct about the exhaust manifold gasket. I used one because my manifold was pitted but from the factory, no gasket.
I forgot to answer your other questions. So if your exhaust manifold was milled and the cylinder head surface that it bolts to is also nice and true, you should not need gaskets. As far as coolant goes, just the standard green stuff is just fine. These old engines don't need anything fancy.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Just finished installing the C4 onto the engine. It was a difficult task. I used a scissor Jack for the trans. Difficult to align the flex plate. The 3 bolts went in, but the forth upper bellhousing bolt wouldn't rotate in. Maybe apply some rotating force to the bolt? Does the flex plate need to go all the way in into the torque converter or should there be a gap. Mine has a gap, but I haven't installed the nuts yet. Don't know if the torque converter middle bushing aligned with the flexplate, but the 4 converter bolts went into the flex plate. I only installed the 3 bolts that went into the bellhousing and installed the trans support bracket.
I'm having a hard time visualizing what is happening. I'm not sure if I have ever encountered getting all the torque converter studs in and 3 of the 4 bell housing bolts. In my experiences, if you have to force something, there is something wrong. Is the torque converter completely seated into the trans? Are the engine dowel pins in and in the correct locations? Did this engine used to have a standard trans on it and the pilot bearing wasn't removed? I'm just trying to think of all the possible things that could put this on a bind.
@@AlfsMustangGarage There is a gap between the torque converter and the flex plate. Maybe once I install the 4 nuts the flex plate will seat better into the converter. The 4 converter bolts are in the 4 bolt holes. A few weeks ago I put some trans assembly grease onto the converter middle shaft and maybe that grease is preventing the flex plate from seating.
So you need to remove those nuts on the flywheel thru the starter hole before removing the engine..?
You can access them through the starter hole but you don't have to. You can get them through the inspection cover at the bottom.
Was the carb a 2barrel
No. 1 barrel autolite 1100.