You bring up a great point! I never considered it personally. But thankfully it seems the N55 PCV diaphragm is strong enough to take 15psi no problem (as long as it’s in good health!). My friends at my BMW dealership told me their SnapOn smoke tester there also cranks it to 15psi and they don’t pull the cap (took a while to respond to you because I wanted to check this with more than just one tech- 4 of them confirmed they don’t)… weather thats good or not thats a different story 😂 but that’s what I was told
The issue I fine with this method is that it’s not really pressurizing the system hardly at all. I’ve pressure tested a couple of different cars and a lot of times I have to get up to 10 to 15 PSI before the leak really becomes evident. Generally, you also have to plug both ends the inlet and the outlet and then pressurize everything through all the piping and the intercooler to see if there’s a leak there. If the leak is really bad, you might find it, but I think smoke tests are usually used more for vacuum leaks.
You bring up a good point. And certainly something to keep in mind when using any of these pressured smoke testers. Im lucky that *so far* When I have had a leak it has been enough to find them
Is the cable split wire too short to clamp your negative cable onto the actual negative terminal bolt on the car itself? You used a brace bolt and not the actual ground bolt.
You don’t HAVE to use the actual ground post (we’re not jumping-starting the car lol). Any good solid ground would work :). And yes, the spread of the Pos and Neg cables is just wide enough for a battery’s width basically. So it won’t reach from the Pos jump post all the way to the ground post.
That’s excellent advice. I actually did that off screen (the machine I used pumps up to 15psi), and no change from what you saw on the vid (thankfully)
Hi please reply , i tested my b58 and for me it blows off the testers cone does that means i have no leak? , my machine has built in pump 19-23 psi I didn’t hold in the cone i just plugged in tightly twice and both time it blowed off!
You can try applying smoke from a different spot and blocking off the spot you are currently using. For a smoke test to work you have to have the pressure built up and held for a few minutes while you look for signs of leaking smoke.
Hi, I am having a problem with my 535i , literally every time I turn on the car, the rubber on the charge pipe makes a suction type of thing and the car dies after that suction. :(
Is it an aftermarket or an original charge pipe? If original, replace it with a metal one as the factory one is known to crack and explode even on stock-power levels. If aftermarket, check the fitment of the coupler and the tightness of the clamps
Thanks for the support Luis! And I dont have much for sale. Only my original turbo, and a brand new Pierburg diverter valve up for sale on the F10.5post forums if you want to check the Owner's Classifieds there
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
I think you are supposed to open the oil cap to prevent blowing the fragile PCV membrane, if the pump is generating any meaningful pressure.
You bring up a great point! I never considered it personally. But thankfully it seems the N55 PCV diaphragm is strong enough to take 15psi no problem (as long as it’s in good health!). My friends at my BMW dealership told me their SnapOn smoke tester there also cranks it to 15psi and they don’t pull the cap (took a while to respond to you because I wanted to check this with more than just one tech- 4 of them confirmed they don’t)… weather thats good or not thats a different story 😂 but that’s what I was told
The issue I fine with this method is that it’s not really pressurizing the system hardly at all. I’ve pressure tested a couple of different cars and a lot of times I have to get up to 10 to 15 PSI before the leak really becomes evident.
Generally, you also have to plug both ends the inlet and the outlet and then pressurize everything through all the piping and the intercooler to see if there’s a leak there.
If the leak is really bad, you might find it, but I think smoke tests are usually used more for vacuum leaks.
You bring up a good point. And certainly something to keep in mind when using any of these pressured smoke testers. Im lucky that *so far* When I have had a leak it has been enough to find them
Is the cable split wire too short to clamp your negative cable onto the actual negative terminal bolt on the car itself? You used a brace bolt and not the actual ground bolt.
You don’t HAVE to use the actual ground post (we’re not jumping-starting the car lol). Any good solid ground would work :). And yes, the spread of the Pos and Neg cables is just wide enough for a battery’s width basically. So it won’t reach from the Pos jump post all the way to the ground post.
Awesome!!! Definitely needed this DIY!!!
Very straight forward and well explained. Thank you
Yes it is. Very easy test. Good luck!
u should pressurize it with like 15 lbs due to the rubber pipes expanding and then thats when the leak happens. it will be more effective
That’s excellent advice. I actually did that off screen (the machine I used pumps up to 15psi), and no change from what you saw on the vid (thankfully)
Hi please reply , i tested my b58 and for me it blows off the testers cone does that means i have no leak? , my machine has built in pump 19-23 psi I didn’t hold in the cone i just plugged in tightly twice and both time it blowed off!
You can try applying smoke from a different spot and blocking off the spot you are currently using. For a smoke test to work you have to have the pressure built up and held for a few minutes while you look for signs of leaking smoke.
@@turbospool but i had smoke tester ..
So you mean this autools machine will put at least 15lbs of pressure in the system?
Correct as long there’s no leak. Big swoosh pressure release and all when I pull off the fitting at the end of testing lol
Thanks brotha, gonna pick one up right now.
Hi, I am having a problem with my 535i , literally every time I turn on the car, the rubber on the charge pipe makes a suction type of thing and the car dies after that suction. :(
Is it an aftermarket or an original charge pipe? If original, replace it with a metal one as the factory one is known to crack and explode even on stock-power levels. If aftermarket, check the fitment of the coupler and the tightness of the clamps
awesome share.. much appreciated!
Hope it helps you!
Nice job
Thanks!
Do you have some spare parts that you can give me or give me a good deal ?? Love your Chanel!!!!
Thanks for the support Luis! And I dont have much for sale. Only my original turbo, and a brand new Pierburg diverter valve up for sale on the F10.5post forums if you want to check the Owner's Classifieds there
Do you have oil catch can ?!
I do not. I did have one long ago but my blowby was so minimal I didn't bother putting it back after some time.
when’s the dyno video?
still tuning the 91 octane. Had to start over since I added the Fog'r kit.
Hi Eddy, is me again lol
you got this dude! Crossing fingers that your smoke test goes smoothly!