I hope so the videos on this channel are really well done from the editing to the content. He has done things that have helped me immensely especially the coding stuff.
I'm lovin the new format! Endless possibilities with the new shop. I've gained so much from your N54 videos over the years, and owe you a huge debt of gratitude for helping me "up" my own DIY game (in particularly your N54 turbo replacement and LPFP videos). I'll be looking forward to the new content. The BMW E Series and early F Series platforms have such huge potential for tuning and aftermarket mods/upgrades. These are the muscle cars of our times. The options for N54s continue to be especially impressive... highly recommend checking out what the lads over on Zero To 60 have been up to recently for additional inspiration.
I hate bad BMW owners people who can’t afford these cars take the cheap route to try and fix them then they get frustrated then sell it. The N55 is a great engine
same... as a BMW tech those people are the reason these cars have such a bad reputation, the majority of BMW engines will do 200k+ when they're maintained properly. Problem is once they're 10+ years old pretty much anyone could scrape up the money or take out a loan for one, but very few of those people have the money and or skill to maintain the car. Parts are so expensive once you start falling behind on repairs they can turn into shitboxes really quick.
Great fix guys!. And I'm a Danny subscriber, from "Diagnose Dan", fixed it again, hahaha. He's Dutch and I love his approach to BMW problems. Love to see the paint correction guys. This new approach will be great for this channel. Keep up the great work. Dutch regards, Nico.
It would be Interesting to see the cost break down from purchase price, cost of repair and final profit numbers after it is sold. Love the new format, waiting for more
Great instructional video for DIYers. IMO, you have set the bar to the next step on your channel. It's surprising that there are owners out there that would do what was done to this car. Using cheap China stuff is one thing but not installing the correct part is sad. Great save on the gamble. Now we'll see your "detailing" skills that you're going to teach us. Love the new format, you are a real person. Let's see you clean the intake valves on this one. Greetings from WNC
very informative and well executed.....great first video in your new shop.joel did an exceptional job explaining the method of diagnosising the issue.keep up the good work.
Rumor says that Joel finally got his glowes on he started working on at 7:37 when car returned back to garage from test-drive 😋 Awesome video once again, thanks 👍🏻
Great video as always. Someone should have told the previous owner “maintenance before modifications, and don’t buy cheap knockoffs”. My son just learned that the hard way!!
Congrats on your new shop, glad to see you back. Just wondering where I can get ISTA+ for myself so I can diagnose issues with my E60 N52. Thanks and keep up the good work.
My dads N55 had a misfire and valve knock. It would also tick under acceleration, like a card in bicycle spokes. Turns out, the o-rings and washers on a fuel injector went bad. These complex engines make some of the strangest issues or troubleshooting steps.
@@luckyblack00 Yes. It did. The fuel injector was fine. It was the sealing ring, or whatever they called it. It essentially allowed the air to leak and cause an irregular misfire. Because the injectors require a special tool to remove, it cost my parents a pretty penny.
My n55 ran like crap. Turns out I installed EU6 injectors on a DME that’s only compatible with EU5 injectors. Parts both fit the same but they have a completely different spray pattern.
If I was a service manager I would have diagnose Dan playlists in the break room and have quizzes on his videos and pay flat rate on the video and quiz time... Dan is that good, I don't know anyone better.
makes me wonder if someone changed the solenoids on purpose to get a lower price at auction. I have heard stories of people unplugging something to make the car run bad. Love the content and it is nice putting a face to the voice.
I love watching your videos man, I learn a lot from you as a new bmw owner. Do you happen to have a video showing how you get this insta or inpa app on your laptop ? Or would you recommend that I just stick to a obd car scanner ?
Awesome diagnostic work props to you that's way cool the wrong vanos solenoids just goes to show you if you don't know about bmws don't try to fix them good job
You are great at what you do; every single one of us wishes you would update your title and your description and stop leaving out names of things you do. I searched “N54 Vacuum Pump Replacement” and it brought me here. Also searched for N55 and still saw your video, bit I have absolutely NO IDEA what your video is even about and I’m not sticking around this one to find out. I will easily watch your videos all day long, but absolutely hate when your videos come up and I’m looking for something in specific because you never say what you’re doing.
Hello, congratulations, it's nice to see a problem resolved, I have a 325i 2010 N53 slows down unstable and shakes when cold, it lasts 1 minute and afterward the car runs very well. When she does that I accelerate slightly and that prevents the shaking and slows it down unstable, do you have any idea, said the vanos? No smoke, no smell of gasoline. New spark plug and coil. I'm French, sorry for the translation.
Great job, a compression test was genius. My e90 often misfires and rpms sometimes jump while in idle. With a compression test, think I could find the problem?
Hi, love your channel. Ever considered making a video about canbus problems on E or F series? I ran into weird conditions with an e70 which all point to K-Can communication issue.
Would that relative compression test work for an n54? I’m planning to mod my new high mileage n54 but I wanna know if it has any engine problems first.
It works for every combustion engine, gas or diesel. Just need a good battery and starter, it could be at a junkyard (needs oil and no synchronized to ignition). I would have found Cleetus' bad cylinder in 10 minutes with oscilloscope and a borescope (we did borescoping too on that 535i) to look at cylinder wall cross hatch and side camera on the valves.
How would I go about diagnosing what causes the ticking sound from the N52? Also, I get a slight vibration as it idles and/or at a stop. There is no vacuum leak and mounts have been replaced.
Top vid 👍 the only thing I’d say is I assume your filming with an iPhone 13? When the focus shifts it’s not that pleasant to view with the eye. Can you turn Portrait mode off?
No I haven't worked at BMW, I've just always worked on cars on the side. One of my first jobs was at a shop till I was 17 then I went to college and starting in the IT industry.
Good stuff, but I am a little unclear on your data collection instrument (Oscilloscope) connections. Did you disconnect all the fuel injectors and then connect to one of the connectors for the coil pack to get the ignition indication on channel A (red spike)? Also, how is the Amprobe on channel B giving you a cycle of compression, being clamped on the "Starter Wire"? Is is actually reading the current (Load) fluctuations on the Starter as each cylinder compresses at TDC?
@@VehicularDIY Wow that is genius! I would have never thought you could get a informative compression read from the motor starter! Thank you for replying and taking the time to create these videos. I am a new subscriber and your videos have been very helpful. I have been fixing my own cars for over 35 years, but I'm a new BMW owner (used one) and these cars seems pretty complicated. Having the knowledge that you put out will help.
Thank you for the awesome videos! Im going through a little out of the ordinary issue and was wondering if you can help me. I was getting 2BCB (mixture control: exhaust gas after catalytic converter too lean) code along with 2D2F (oxygen sensor before cat: multiple fault). 2cF4 code showed up once but didnt return after clearing (before cat slow response). This prompted me to replace the primary O2 sensor. After replacing the primary O2 sensor and driving for a bit these two codes came up: 2D34 ( oxygen sensor before catalytic converter, system check: signal fixed at rich. 2D2F (Oxygen sensor before cat multiple fault) The car drives and pulls smooth. It idles smooth as well before and after replacing the sensor. No SES light illuminated yet. What can I do now to hopefully resolve this matter and ensure the engine isnt running too rich or lean? Car info: 2011 e92, N55 with 126k miles. Catless downpipe with mhd stage 0 tune for the past year. Just regular oil changes. No other work was done recently. If you can please shed some light on this matter, that'd be greatly appreciated, thank you!
I have had 3 535is and have been chasing a weird metal sound at cold start, it goes away once warm and is independent on rpm. It sounds like it either comes from the vac pump or crank pulley. Any input?
If one was to simply replace both vanos solenoids with the correct units (Genuine BMW) could you just drive off and let them self adapt or is resetting via ISTA required? Great video, Thx
Have had any experience with P112F code. It throws no check engine light. Car runs fine until I step on it. When I step on it it throws the Drive train Malfunction, but no check engine light.
On my N54 the HPFP was tired.. I replaced it.. before and after which my rail pressure was showing LPFP pressure. What are the odds the sensor went bad the same time as the HPFP or that I got shipped a failed unit from FCP? Also, would a bank of bad injectors failing open do the same thing? I feel like I'm chasing a gremlin.
I wouldn't imagine that bad injectors would cause your rail pressure to drop down to low pressure. I would check the low-pressure sensor and compare it to the high pressure sensor. Are the values exact?
I have a 2015 Japan import m135i n55 the other day I was having a spirited drive with the car and it came up with a drivetrain issue, I checked the codes and it said cylinder 4,5,6 were all misfiring. I left the car overnight and when I first cold started it again to get it on a trailer it was a really rough idle, very smelly (gas) and the revvs kept building to 1-1.5k, the car warmed up a bit and I had to start it one more time to readjust it, but when I restarted it the misfire went it seemed like the car was back to normal I let it sit and warm up some more and gave it some little revvs and it sounded like normal. The check engine light is still on but I haven’t cleared the codes in the car system, any ideas what could of happened?
I have been trying to find out why my 640 stumbles and shuts off randomly for about a year now. iv changed so many things including the hpfp and the car starts runs and idles better then when i got it 3 years ago but it still has that problem where it stumbles and shuts off randomly with no codes or symtoms prior. still trying to figure it out
I have 2011 bmw 535 at idle the rpms dips just a little bit if it cold outside or while warming up but afterwards idle is fine. Could that be injectors or a plug type of issue ?
This is off the current topic, but I just remembered, that time when you manual swapped your e90, remember it made a whiny noise on 1st start up, did u ever figure it out? :D
@@VehicularDIY I have an F10 with stocks. Can possibly trade and if the price is right I'll buy them off you. I'm in Arizona so not too far away from you
My dude!!!!!! 😁 MASSIVE congratulations on the shop, and... You said that you were in California!!! Wanted to ask where you are, and if possible, maybe pay you a visit! 😁 I have so much respect for you and for what you've done and I would be honored to meet you if it's feasible for you. Would you be comfortable divulging where in the state you are? As I've always said, your content for BMWs is by FAR the best on any platform... I am so happy for you and wish you all the best with this new chapter in your channel and in your life! 😊 Keep it upppp!!!!
So ummm... Just did a vid dive on your channel to catch myself up, and... YOU'RE IN SD!!!!! I'M IN SD!!!! THE UNIVERSE IS AWESOME.... from time to time... 🤣🤣 Musa, straight up asking now, not sure if it's your thing, but I would LOVE to meet you! Not sure if you're on IG, I know that there's not much privacy to messaging on YT and I don't want to jeopardize that and ensure you remain comfortable. With all due respect, and understanding the value of your time, would it be ok to try this type of thing out? 😊
Our M235i has has a bouncy start idle. It'll dip anywhere from 400 to 1200 RPM's. Some days it's barely noticeable, some days it's a lot worse. After the approximately 60 second warm-up sequence, it's 100% normal. Car has been doing it for the last 60k miles. Any ideas?
I got a very similar issue with my 335i n55. So the car idles and drives great, but when I come to a stop and when it should discharge the transmission and idle at 600 rpm, the rpm starts rising up to 1300 rpm and then slowly falls back to normal idle rpm… Already changed spark plugs, coils and injectors. I am thinking either vanos or somewhere air is getting in. Maybe some of you guys have an idea?
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Seeing you talk directly to the camera threw me off haha! Excited to see this new era of vehicular diy
Agreed. Great to see you on camera Musa!
I have a feeling this new shop and newer style of videos is going to grow your channel quite a bit 👍👍
I hope so the videos on this channel are really well done from the editing to the content. He has done things that have helped me immensely especially the coding stuff.
I'm lovin the new format! Endless possibilities with the new shop. I've gained so much from your N54 videos over the years, and owe you a huge debt of gratitude for helping me "up" my own DIY game (in particularly your N54 turbo replacement and LPFP videos). I'll be looking forward to the new content. The BMW E Series and early F Series platforms have such huge potential for tuning and aftermarket mods/upgrades. These are the muscle cars of our times. The options for N54s continue to be especially impressive... highly recommend checking out what the lads over on Zero To 60 have been up to recently for additional inspiration.
I hate bad BMW owners people who can’t afford these cars take the cheap route to try and fix them then they get frustrated then sell it. The N55 is a great engine
same... as a BMW tech those people are the reason these cars have such a bad reputation, the majority of BMW engines will do 200k+ when they're maintained properly. Problem is once they're 10+ years old pretty much anyone could scrape up the money or take out a loan for one, but very few of those people have the money and or skill to maintain the car. Parts are so expensive once you start falling behind on repairs they can turn into shitboxes really quick.
Your original video format was great. Your new format adds a nice personal touch to it. Keep up the great work!
i think the is the first vid ive seen with your face in it,lol ,easily one of the best BMW YT guys ,keep up the great work !!
Really love this new style and the guy helping out was a great addition. Really looking forward to see what the detail will make of this car.
Sad to see such a nice car so neglected.Luckily it's in the capable hands of our man Musa 😀
Great fix guys!. And I'm a Danny subscriber, from "Diagnose Dan", fixed it again, hahaha. He's Dutch and I love his approach to BMW problems. Love to see the paint correction guys. This new approach will be great for this channel. Keep up the great work. Dutch regards, Nico.
And Zero to 60 maybe??? I know the Dutch Regards timeline, and now you know me
@@igotaction yep, that's me. Dutch regards Nico.😆😏
It would be Interesting to see the cost break down from purchase price, cost of repair and final profit numbers after it is sold. Love the new format, waiting for more
I plan on doing that, thanks for the feedback.
I have build my 335i from factory spec to FBO and hybrid turbos using basically all yours videos. You are legend
Congrats on the new setup and space! Can't wait for what's to come. Keep it up man 💪
Great instructional video for DIYers. IMO, you have set the bar to the next step on your channel. It's surprising that there are owners out there that would do what was done to this car. Using cheap China stuff is one thing but not installing the correct part is sad. Great save on the gamble. Now we'll see your "detailing" skills that you're going to teach us. Love the new format, you are a real person. Let's see you clean the intake valves on this one. Greetings from WNC
Thanks. Oh the detailing skills will not be mine but we'll be documenting it. Joel Rolley is doing the work.
very informative and well executed.....great first video in your new shop.joel did an exceptional job explaining the method of diagnosising the issue.keep up the good work.
Very kind thank you, I hope you like the paint correction video coming up, I did half the hood, trunk lid and left quarter panel. It came out nice.
Great job guys on the thorough diagnosis! Loving the new space 👍🏻
The man, the myth, the bmw legend!
Rumor says that Joel finally got his glowes on he started working on at 7:37 when car returned back to garage from test-drive 😋
Awesome video once again, thanks 👍🏻
It's possible, but the paint correction is all me😉
The guy that replaced the Vanos solenoids first was obviously not paying attention...lol Good find!
Just an idiot trying to take the cheap route
Great video as always. Someone should have told the previous owner “maintenance before modifications, and don’t buy cheap knockoffs”. My son just learned that the hard way!!
Congrats on your new shop, glad to see you back.
Just wondering where I can get ISTA+ for myself so I can diagnose issues with my E60 N52.
Thanks and keep up the good work.
Congrats on your new shop. I also have a 2011 535i (manual transmission) and I learn a lot watching your videos.
DUDE, love the new setup honestly!
keep up the hard work man
Love the new presentation - good to see you in video!!! welcome to Cali!
Wow, nice to meet you boss!
Great video.
Wow 10min fixed all that!
Joking.
Very Good job.
Actually it got harder... had intermittent misfires and then realized there are 2 EU5 injectors one for before 12/2010 and one for 1/2011 on.
535 is nice driving car smooth and refined
My dads N55 had a misfire and valve knock. It would also tick under acceleration, like a card in bicycle spokes. Turns out, the o-rings and washers on a fuel injector went bad. These complex engines make some of the strangest issues or troubleshooting steps.
I have the exact same symptoms as you described and I suspect a bad fuel injector. Did the knock go away after fix?
@@luckyblack00 Yes. It did. The fuel injector was fine. It was the sealing ring, or whatever they called it. It essentially allowed the air to leak and cause an irregular misfire. Because the injectors require a special tool to remove, it cost my parents a pretty penny.
Yeah the sealing ring leaking would be a distinct noise for sure.
Missed your last videos, great new content btw. Welcome to Cali .
Great content - I love BMW's for their handling dynamics, but they do need some TLC. DYI is a good way to keep some of these great cars on the road!
My n55 ran like crap. Turns out I installed EU6 injectors on a DME that’s only compatible with EU5 injectors. Parts both fit the same but they have a completely different spray pattern.
You are supposed to check what injectors are in the dme.
Do you remember what was the symptoms of the car ?
Glad to see you back with the videos! 🙏
Diagnose Dan is another great RUclipsr too!
If I was a service manager I would have diagnose Dan playlists in the break room and have quizzes on his videos and pay flat rate on the video and quiz time... Dan is that good, I don't know anyone better.
makes me wonder if someone changed the solenoids on purpose to get a lower price at auction. I have heard stories of people unplugging something to make the car run bad. Love the content and it is nice putting a face to the voice.
It was like watching Dr Oz for BMW's and I loved it 💪
I love Diagnose Dan!
Brilliant this channel is getting Evan better 👏 👍 😀 🙌 👌 💪
A concise diagnosis procedure. Thank you.
This gentleman is Mate Rimac? I see he's working on a BMW F10!! :-)
I love watching your videos man, I learn a lot from you as a new bmw owner. Do you happen to have a video showing how you get this insta or inpa app on your laptop ? Or would you recommend that I just stick to a obd car scanner ?
Ican help you for ista and inpa
Thank you, I don't but there are a few good guides on RUclips that walk you through the process.
Great video man, keep them
Coming
Interesting engine analysis
Awesome diagnostic work props to you that's way cool the wrong vanos solenoids just goes to show you if you don't know about bmws don't try to fix them good job
Salam bro, great diagnostic video. I love learning new things about cars
Great video. Do you remove the radiator fan before changing Vanos or are you able to get them in/out with the fan in place?
Loving this new style better.
You are great at what you do; every single one of us wishes you would update your title and your description and stop leaving out names of things you do.
I searched “N54 Vacuum Pump Replacement” and it brought me here. Also searched for N55 and still saw your video, bit I have absolutely NO IDEA what your video is even about and I’m not sticking around this one to find out.
I will easily watch your videos all day long, but absolutely hate when your videos come up and I’m looking for something in specific because you never say what you’re doing.
Link to the tool used to check the ‘compression’
Autel MP-408 Maxiscope 4 channel oscilloscope, PICO TA167 amp clamp, any laptop to download the maxiscope software.
Looking forward to the next video. 😀
Yes! I guess it!🙌🏻🥳 I knew something has to do with vanos solenoids! glad you figured it out!🤙🏻😎
Awesome!! Damn aftermarket parts
beautiful video amazing low level debugging.
I had the same type of problem, but the O-ring was the only problem I did a smog test to find my issue after testing the O2 sensor.
Hello, congratulations, it's nice to see a problem resolved, I have a 325i 2010 N53 slows down unstable and shakes when cold, it lasts 1 minute and afterward the car runs very well. When she does that I accelerate slightly and that prevents the shaking and slows it down unstable, do you have any idea, said the vanos? No smoke, no smell of gasoline. New spark plug and coil. I'm French, sorry for the translation.
For paint restoration check out or look for Restore FX, maybe its the way to go if you have that service in your area.
Maybe Rolley Motorsports is the way to go, you will just have to wait and see😉
Can you link to the tools used for the scope and compression test portion?
Is the ista software free?
Can you provide a link to the new vanos solenoids please?
love the new shop, plenty of room to move and love the new video style, keep it up
Paint restoration🤩🤩🤩
Great job, a compression test was genius. My e90 often misfires and rpms sometimes jump while in idle. With a compression test, think I could find the problem?
Hi, love your channel.
Ever considered making a video about canbus problems on E or F series?
I ran into weird conditions with an e70 which all point to K-Can communication issue.
Those are the exact cars we are hoping to find to buy diagnose and fix.
Excellent video, what you think, 2011 bmw 335i N55 28A0 code idle surge at start up and no codes after running 28A0 only at start up
Bro, your phone that is sickkkkk👌👌👌👌🤩🤩🤩🤩
Would that relative compression test work for an n54? I’m planning to mod my new high mileage n54 but I wanna know if it has any engine problems first.
It works for every combustion engine, gas or diesel. Just need a good battery and starter, it could be at a junkyard (needs oil and no synchronized to ignition). I would have found Cleetus' bad cylinder in 10 minutes with oscilloscope and a borescope (we did borescoping too on that 535i) to look at cylinder wall cross hatch and side camera on the valves.
How would I go about diagnosing what causes the ticking sound from the N52? Also, I get a slight vibration as it idles and/or at a stop. There is no vacuum leak and mounts have been replaced.
Top vid 👍 the only thing I’d say is I assume your filming with an iPhone 13? When the focus shifts it’s not that pleasant to view with the eye. Can you turn Portrait mode off?
What is your background with BMW's? Did you work as a technician at a BMW dealer
in the past?
Yes he did years ago before going in to the I.T. Industry
No I haven't worked at BMW, I've just always worked on cars on the side. One of my first jobs was at a shop till I was 17 then I went to college and starting in the IT industry.
How’d you get ISTA ??
Do you know how to do a transmission and engine software update on a F10 535i?
Good stuff, but I am a little unclear on your data collection instrument (Oscilloscope) connections. Did you disconnect all the fuel injectors and then connect to one of the connectors for the coil pack to get the ignition indication on channel A (red spike)? Also, how is the Amprobe on channel B giving you a cycle of compression, being clamped on the "Starter Wire"? Is is actually reading the current (Load) fluctuations on the Starter as each cylinder compresses at TDC?
You pretty much described it. As for when the cycle starts again its based on cylinder 1 being triggered.
@@VehicularDIY Wow that is genius! I would have never thought you could get a informative compression read from the motor starter! Thank you for replying and taking the time to create these videos. I am a new subscriber and your videos have been very helpful. I have been fixing my own cars for over 35 years, but I'm a new BMW owner (used one) and these cars seems pretty complicated. Having the knowledge that you put out will help.
Thank you for the awesome videos! Im going through a little out of the ordinary issue and was wondering if you can help me.
I was getting 2BCB (mixture control: exhaust gas after catalytic converter too lean) code along with 2D2F (oxygen sensor before cat: multiple fault). 2cF4 code showed up once but didnt return after clearing (before cat slow response). This prompted me to replace the primary O2 sensor.
After replacing the primary O2 sensor and driving for a bit these two codes came up:
2D34 ( oxygen sensor before catalytic converter, system check: signal fixed at rich.
2D2F (Oxygen sensor before cat multiple fault)
The car drives and pulls smooth. It idles smooth as well before and after replacing the sensor. No SES light illuminated yet. What can I do now to hopefully resolve this matter and ensure the engine isnt running too rich or lean?
Car info:
2011 e92, N55 with 126k miles. Catless downpipe with mhd stage 0 tune for the past year. Just regular oil changes. No other work was done recently.
If you can please shed some light on this matter, that'd be greatly appreciated, thank you!
I have had 3 535is and have been chasing a weird metal sound at cold start, it goes away once warm and is independent on rpm. It sounds like it either comes from the vac pump or crank pulley. Any input?
Very good video, thankfully easy fix. 🍺 🍺
If one was to simply replace both vanos solenoids with the correct units (Genuine BMW) could you just drive off and let them self adapt or is resetting via ISTA required?
Great video,
Thx
I would imagine that the engine would so in about 1 drive cycle.
My n55 always misfire when accerate hard, no code, only limp mode, do i need to replace the coil n plug?
Please check what you get on the park brake , I’m having a park brake error on my e70 x5 and I think they use the same systems
I actually replaced a park brake actuator on my E70 X5 back in the day and filmed it. The code is gone after replacing just the pad wear sensor.
What is the make and model of the oscilloscope?
Autel MP-408 Maxiscope 4 channel, PICO TA167 amp clamp, free maxiscope software.
Have had any experience with P112F code. It throws no check engine light. Car runs fine until I step on it. When I step on it it throws the Drive train Malfunction, but no check engine light.
On my N54 the HPFP was tired.. I replaced it.. before and after which my rail pressure was showing LPFP pressure. What are the odds the sensor went bad the same time as the HPFP or that I got shipped a failed unit from FCP? Also, would a bank of bad injectors failing open do the same thing? I feel like I'm chasing a gremlin.
Codes?
I wouldn't imagine that bad injectors would cause your rail pressure to drop down to low pressure. I would check the low-pressure sensor and compare it to the high pressure sensor. Are the values exact?
''I got a guy that can do it cheaper''... 5 series with straight pipes. God help these people
I have a 2015 Japan import m135i n55 the other day I was having a spirited drive with the car and it came up with a drivetrain issue, I checked the codes and it said cylinder 4,5,6 were all misfiring. I left the car overnight and when I first cold started it again to get it on a trailer it was a really rough idle, very smelly (gas) and the revvs kept building to 1-1.5k, the car warmed up a bit and I had to start it one more time to readjust it, but when I restarted it the misfire went it seemed like the car was back to normal I let it sit and warm up some more and gave it some little revvs and it sounded like normal. The check engine light is still on but I haven’t cleared the codes in the car system, any ideas what could of happened?
Will you be doing work on other peoples cars at your mew shop? Im in sd and my e60 535i has a thump on the startup that the internet clames is normal
I'm not at that point yet but we'll see how this plays out.
I have been trying to find out why my 640 stumbles and shuts off randomly for about a year now. iv changed so many things including the hpfp and the car starts runs and idles better then when i got it 3 years ago but it still has that problem where it stumbles and shuts off randomly with no codes or symtoms prior. still trying to figure it out
UPDATE: was the valvetronic essentric shaft, car drives wonderfully.... AFTER its terrible cold start. still havnt figured that one out
love the content
I have 2011 bmw 535 at idle the rpms dips just a little bit if it cold outside or while warming up but afterwards idle is fine. Could that be injectors or a plug type of issue ?
It could be a leaky injector. How many miles?
Maybe intake manifold gaskets too.
@@VehicularDIY 115000
what was it ?
lmao good find. diagnostics first. check all related parts are correct. too easy
Congrats on the shop! Where did you get ista from?
Thanks, you can find it online from a number of places.
LOL, wondering what the previous owner is thing after seeing this!
This is off the current topic, but I just remembered, that time when you manual swapped your e90, remember it made a whiny noise on 1st start up, did u ever figure it out? :D
It was the starter meshing with the flywheel. It eventually quieted way down. It's not gone completely but at around 10% as loud now.
Have a 535i misfired bad, replaced plugs and misfire is back with same codes. Help please. Wasn’t coils either
Valve cover gasket and get the oem solenoids
Can you imagine amount of stupidity you have to have to put in completely wrong part in the car.
Great video
The infamous vanos strikes again.
Wasn’t the cars fault. If you watch the video the previous owner of the car installed the wrong Vanos solenoids in the car
@@zlord1199 this is a common problem with these car. Some people clean them it’s best to replace them.
I would love to buy those rims if the price is right
For now I was planning on letting them go with the vehicle unless I found a good set of stock wheels and tires.
@@VehicularDIY I have an F10 with stocks. Can possibly trade and if the price is right I'll buy them off you. I'm in Arizona so not too far away from you
Hey I found a set of stock rims for this car and would consider selling. If you're interested shoot me an email to avemandiy@gmail.com
Thank you so much.
Im dealing with a similar situation; I changed all the spark plugs and coils and my car is still misfiring
My dude!!!!!! 😁
MASSIVE congratulations on the shop, and... You said that you were in California!!!
Wanted to ask where you are, and if possible, maybe pay you a visit! 😁 I have so much respect for you and for what you've done and I would be honored to meet you if it's feasible for you. Would you be comfortable divulging where in the state you are?
As I've always said, your content for BMWs is by FAR the best on any platform... I am so happy for you and wish you all the best with this new chapter in your channel and in your life! 😊
Keep it upppp!!!!
So ummm... Just did a vid dive on your channel to catch myself up, and... YOU'RE IN SD!!!!! I'M IN SD!!!!
THE UNIVERSE IS AWESOME.... from time to time... 🤣🤣
Musa, straight up asking now, not sure if it's your thing, but I would LOVE to meet you!
Not sure if you're on IG, I know that there's not much privacy to messaging on YT and I don't want to jeopardize that and ensure you remain comfortable.
With all due respect, and understanding the value of your time, would it be ok to try this type of thing out? 😊
Thanks! Shoot me an email, I have that on the about section of my page.
@@VehicularDIY Hey bro!
Just checked the about page--unless I'm crazy, I can't find it! 😭😭
Is it listed somewhere else?
Our M235i has has a bouncy start idle. It'll dip anywhere from 400 to 1200 RPM's. Some days it's barely noticeable, some days it's a lot worse. After the approximately 60 second warm-up sequence, it's 100% normal. Car has been doing it for the last 60k miles. Any ideas?
I just discovered the issue after buying mine yesterday haha, but I took it to the local bmw dealer as I have a warranty for 2 years on it
I’ll let you know what they find out
I got a very similar issue with my 335i n55.
So the car idles and drives great, but when I come to a stop and when it should discharge the transmission and idle at 600 rpm, the rpm starts rising up to 1300 rpm and then slowly falls back to normal idle rpm…
Already changed spark plugs, coils and injectors.
I am thinking either vanos or somewhere air is getting in.
Maybe some of you guys have an idea?
Does it do so smoothly? I would imagine there would be some associated codes.
@@VehicularDIY yes it does do smoothly, but takes around 10 seconds to fall back to normal idling.
Sadly not a single code.
that's some rough paint
Hope to fix that car to a new fortunate owner
Success for the new era for Vehicular DIY
BimmerN53