You can't always hear a leak even under pressure. Spray soapy water around while the system is under pressure and you will get bubbles if there is any leak even if it's a pin hole.
I did a similar test on mine with PVC end caps from Home Depot, what I did different was unplug the blow by vent house for the PCV system and capped it off. Found a boost leak between the inner cooler and charge pipe.
@@jake_spence bro I been using your videos for my build cause your thorough AF! That being said. . . After testing it this way I found a Boost leak in the damn turbo compressor housing 🤣 let em hate!
Would you NOT have at least 1 intake and or exhaust valve OPEN that would allow the air to get thru the combustion chamber and leak out the turbo and down the exhaust..?? Are you saying that all intake valves are CLOSED to keep that pressurized air within the IC piping and intake manifold..?? Think about it, your pushing air thru the turbo inlet... where does it go from there..?? It goes thru the compressor housing, down the IC piping, thru the FMI, thru the IC piping again, thru the throttle body and into the intake manifold then its going to find its way thru an OPEN intake valve where it will fill up the combustion chamber, at some point the air will find an open exhaust valve where now its going to escape thru the turbine and down into the exhaust and out thru the muffler .. Your loosing air the oil cap and oil catch can so your crankcase is getting that pressurized air which is should not be .... but you are so HOW are you keeping the system under pressure if there are ways for that air to escape freely ..?? The point is to pressurize the system and see if it HOLDS or leaks .. Your case its leaking thru the oil cap and catch can ...
if you have valve overlap then yes,like a cam but on a non cammed non overlap engine if the intake valves open the exhaust is closed and visa versa so it stops at combustion chamber
The other day I drove by you in my red S4 and i yelled out the window, you said sum back but idk I was driving away. Was really upset I wasn’t driving your old bmw that day, especially since I stage 2 it and you would’ve liked to see your old cars progression
Jake Spence my brother bought the 335i coupe off Quinten but he’s gone in military so I been driving it past few months and for the next few, rear ended someone at automotion but so little damage it was so lucky, not used to losing traction to them back wheels
I just did on mine, cap off the front inlet with PVC cap and run pressure to the rear inlet. Unplug the blow-back vent hose and cap that off too. Keep in mind the rear inlet is not on very tight unless you have aftermarket so too much pressure will cause a leak. I've seen others do it from the hot side of the inner cooler as that's where the should hold (after the turbos).
With the stock c-clip? Insert the c-clip into the charge pipe, then push it on to the throttle body. It should clip. I've also put a layer of electrical tape on the throttle body, then securing on the charge pipe. That way it's not as loose. Otherwise you can always cut off the end of the charge pipe and use a coupler with some t-bolt clamps or even an alpha lock.
Why dont you plug off the tube going to the throttle body so you just keep the pressure in the turbo system instead of the motor ? Ive never done it this way not sure if there's an advantage?
Yo man. Im more interested in your use of the hobbs switch. Im trying to add an extra fuel pump to put more fuel into the system. Did you just use 1 injector into the intake or how did you do it?
its so important to pressurise to the same psi your turbo is boosting, right now i have a leak that only shows itself once psi is put in,before i was blowing into the system and i can plug it with my thumb and after about 15 seconds release my thumb and hear a loud pshhhh sound.this was giving me false beleif i didnt have a leak,the leak is only under psi and its so bad i cant even get the wastefate arm to move when pumping with bike pump as fast as i can. its looking like the injector o-ring is the culprit im actually doing this right now so im gonna spray soapy water to confirm or my diysmoker if it gets tricky,it massive leak under boost,yesterday my afr was mid to low 11s at wot,today my afr is 10.0.again ONLY under boost does it leak. also building a simple smoke machine is a great tool to have and can be made pretty much free.
I get how to add pressure from the Turbo intake. But since there are 6 intakes and they are never closed at the same time. How do you stop loosing pressure via the engine intake ?.
Did you regulate the compressor. Or just monitor the gauge? I have mine regulated on 20psi or less and seems to take a while to build pressure on the system
20psi on the compressor regulator is quite low. Most air tools are around 90psi at the regulator. Hence why it takes you a while to pressurize the system
@@StewartMotoring yea. I redid the test with more pressure. Did a lot better found some leaks. Some were pretty tiny. My injector bung adapters. They will just bubble with soapy water. My compressor housing (S369sxe ) no o ring. But has some bleed. But I hear it isn’t enough to cause issues. I got up to 30psi and it started to take a while to build anymore. I’m assuming the overlap and passing rings and out the catch can. But 30psi should find your leaks in my opinion. Good video by the way man. Try soapy water next time. It will show all leaks
Hi Jake : Do you have fitment issues with your intercooler? My 5” stepped one keeps coming off at the couplers. And I get boost leaks like every couple weeks
Yeah, something isn't right. It probably isn't connected properly to the throttle body. Make sure you connect the c-clip to the charge pipe, then push the pipe on to the throttle body until you hear it click into place. Otherwise you might have a BOV problem or a boost leak. You can use the general idea from this video to test for leaks.
You can't always hear a leak even under pressure. Spray soapy water around while the system is under pressure and you will get bubbles if there is any leak even if it's a pin hole.
Was gonna say the same but you beat me to it.
I did a similar test on mine with PVC end caps from Home Depot, what I did different was unplug the blow by vent house for the PCV system and capped it off. Found a boost leak between the inner cooler and charge pipe.
Nice! That's a good way to do it too.
how did you fix the boost leak on the charge pipe and throttle body mines leaking bad
I don't understand how the 4 bent pins didn't cause an issue right away.
Me either, since they were still connected, I'm guessing it worked. But over time the resistance built up and caused issues.
I like that you test thru the turbo and all. Because that turbo seal wouldve drove some people batshit trying to find
Yup, I found a leaking compressor housing o-ring once because of it!
@@jake_spence bro I been using your videos for my build cause your thorough AF! That being said. . . After testing it this way I found a Boost leak in the damn turbo compressor housing 🤣 let em hate!
Yep. So I was right(one of). Glad you found the problem Jake. Keep it going. The Dutch guy.
Yup - thank you!
is there a rule of thumb for what is acceptable amount of psi drop when doing this? like 1 psi every 10 seconds or somthing?
Would you NOT have at least 1 intake and or exhaust valve OPEN that would allow the air to get thru the combustion chamber and leak out the turbo and down the exhaust..??
Are you saying that all intake valves are CLOSED to keep that pressurized air within the IC piping and intake manifold..??
Think about it, your pushing air thru the turbo inlet... where does it go from there..?? It goes thru the compressor housing, down the IC piping, thru the FMI, thru the IC piping again, thru the throttle body and into the intake manifold then its going to find its way thru an OPEN intake valve where it will fill up the combustion chamber, at some point the air will find an open exhaust valve where now its going to escape thru the turbine and down into the exhaust and out thru the muffler ..
Your loosing air the oil cap and oil catch can so your crankcase is getting that pressurized air which is should not be .... but you are so HOW are you keeping the system under pressure if there are ways for that air to escape freely ..??
The point is to pressurize the system and see if it HOLDS or leaks .. Your case its leaking thru the oil cap and catch can ...
if you have valve overlap then yes,like a cam but on a non cammed non overlap engine if the intake valves open the exhaust is closed and visa versa so it stops at combustion chamber
Woohoo!! Nice video. Good to see you found the problem
Thanks man, me too!
You can also watch your gauge to drop 1 psi/second.....
The other day I drove by you in my red S4 and i yelled out the window, you said sum back but idk I was driving away. Was really upset I wasn’t driving your old bmw that day, especially since I stage 2 it and you would’ve liked to see your old cars progression
I remember that! Which one did you buy?
Jake Spence my brother bought the 335i coupe off Quinten but he’s gone in military so I been driving it past few months and for the next few, rear ended someone at automotion but so little damage it was so lucky, not used to losing traction to them back wheels
Need help , I did boost leak test and my system is holding but driving the car I make 0 boost , checked my internal waste gate and it is shut
Any way you could make a video doing a boost leak test on your stock turbo car?
I'll have to add that to the list of videos I can do in the future!
I just did on mine, cap off the front inlet with PVC cap and run pressure to the rear inlet. Unplug the blow-back vent hose and cap that off too. Keep in mind the rear inlet is not on very tight unless you have aftermarket so too much pressure will cause a leak. I've seen others do it from the hot side of the inner cooler as that's where the should hold (after the turbos).
Glad you find the problem Jake 👍
Me too!
Hey nice video bro. Will the wastegates open when you add pressure to the system? Will it show any leaks in vacuum lines?
Yes it should show vacuum leaks, but I don't think the pressure will make it's way into the exhaust system to open the wastegates.
jake spence content twice in one week :DDDDD
Woo! Another video dropping on Thursday...
I get leaks were the charge pipe meets the throttle body and I’ve been fighting it for months to stop but can get it
With the stock c-clip? Insert the c-clip into the charge pipe, then push it on to the throttle body. It should clip. I've also put a layer of electrical tape on the throttle body, then securing on the charge pipe. That way it's not as loose. Otherwise you can always cut off the end of the charge pipe and use a coupler with some t-bolt clamps or even an alpha lock.
Also check the o-ring, sometimes they get pinched or if you're reusing from the stock pipe.
Why dont you plug off the tube going to the throttle body so you just keep the pressure in the turbo system instead of the motor ? Ive never done it this way not sure if there's an advantage?
I could do that, but it's hard to seal the end of that pipe.
you can miss so many leaks this way.right now i have one at injector o ring only under psi,if i did what you're saying i woulda missed it.
@@pigeonsil240sx nice thanks I never thought of an injector leak
Are you running Revshift or oem? Asking because your turbo fitment is mint.
New OEM mounts!
If the psi gauge is on the air compressor gun as opposed to the cap, would it still be as accurate ?
Hi Jake
Nice video, i actually have a boost leak since yesterday and i have to find it, probably the charge pipe connections.
So air comming from the oil fill cap areas is normal?
My friend done a pressure test on my car now it’s started smoking heavily from the exhaust can it damage engine or turbo?
Probably just pushed oil through. It should clear up.
Yo man. Im more interested in your use of the hobbs switch. Im trying to add an extra fuel pump to put more fuel into the system. Did you just use 1 injector into the intake or how did you do it?
Show me how to boost leak test with the stock twins now seriously? lol this is why I want a single turbo next!
I’m wondering the same thing rn
I have the same set up and I have 11 psi spring going for 30 psi and I have a little leak at both waste gates at the exit tube, is that normal?
its so important to pressurise to the same psi your turbo is boosting, right now i have a leak that only shows itself once psi is put in,before i was blowing into the system and i can plug it with my thumb and after about 15 seconds release my thumb and hear a loud pshhhh sound.this was giving me false beleif i didnt have a leak,the leak is only under psi and its so bad i cant even get the wastefate arm to move when pumping with bike pump as fast as i can.
its looking like the injector o-ring is the culprit im actually doing this right now so im gonna spray soapy water to confirm or my diysmoker if it gets tricky,it massive leak under boost,yesterday my afr was mid to low 11s at wot,today my afr is 10.0.again ONLY under boost does it leak.
also building a simple smoke machine is a great tool to have and can be made pretty much free.
Use smoke under pressure to easily find leaks.
That's a good idea as well.
How do you get pressurised smoke in there?
I get how to add pressure from the Turbo intake. But since there are 6 intakes and they are never closed at the same time. How do you stop loosing pressure via the engine intake ?.
Bubble gum
was the issue with the bent pins boost related?
How do you clean your engine bay?
Carefully spray it down with degreaser and wipe off. Cover the important items like alternator and air filters.
Sand blast
Did you regulate the compressor. Or just monitor the gauge?
I have mine regulated on 20psi or less and seems to take a while to build pressure on the system
20psi on the compressor regulator is quite low. Most air tools are around 90psi at the regulator. Hence why it takes you a while to pressurize the system
@@StewartMotoring yea. I redid the test with more pressure. Did a lot better found some leaks.
Some were pretty tiny. My injector bung adapters. They will just bubble with soapy water.
My compressor housing (S369sxe ) no o ring. But has some bleed. But I hear it isn’t enough to cause issues.
I got up to 30psi and it started to take a while to build anymore. I’m assuming the overlap and passing rings and out the catch can.
But 30psi should find your leaks in my opinion.
Good video by the way man. Try soapy water next time. It will show all leaks
Hi Jake : Do you have fitment issues with your intercooler? My 5” stepped one keeps coming off at the couplers. And I get boost leaks like every couple weeks
Nope, I haven't had any issues with intercooler fitment. Something must not be right with yours.
I changed my stock charge pipe with a new one with bov and i get the “engine malfunction” code almost every time i gas it do you know why?
Most likely installed it wrong. Check all the clamps are secured and the charge pipe is on there right
is the BOV completely shut on idle? also it could be that the BOV does not completely open up on boost. if not you might need to swap the spring
Yeah, something isn't right. It probably isn't connected properly to the throttle body. Make sure you connect the c-clip to the charge pipe, then push the pipe on to the throttle body until you hear it click into place. Otherwise you might have a BOV problem or a boost leak. You can use the general idea from this video to test for leaks.
Peculiiar it used to stay open on idle but i changed the spring and it’s now shut but i can slightly hear it spool when i let go of the gas
Jake Spence i will try that out thank you! But yeah my clamp seems to not click when i place it in idk why
It's dangerous to put your chest above that cap 😅
Nice 👍🏻
Thanks!
What were the issues?
Electrical connection was bad.
I think before that engine gets past 100000 miles you will need a rebuild
It's definitely possible...
Great video jake. I like your bmw335i.com website
Thanks man! I'll keep posting and adding to the website over time, I'm glad you like it.
Gay